I’ve made a new dress 🙂
Every year, my friends give me a Fabulous Fabrics voucher for my birthday; aaaah! they know me so well…! 🙂
and last year I spent it on this gorgeous, water-colour-y silk charmeuse. And have made it into dress 35 from Patrones 7; this magazine was itself a gift to me from Merche Martinez from a few years ago. This is the second time I have used this same dress pattern, my first version is here.
So, I have worn it a scant handful of times so far; for dinners during our recent holiday, and I’m wearing it today as well to show it off to my gorgeous gal-pals who gave the voucher to me… and I have to say I’m quite besotted with my dress already. Honestly, bias cut silk, there’s just nothing quite so lovely to wear. It’s a beautiful gift from you to your skin. Seriously, my skin is thanking me every single second I spend in this dress. It’s pure and utter heaven. *dreamy sigh*
To go the whole nine yards silk-wise, I fully lined the dress with creamy-coloured silk habutai. Pinky-purple lining seemed at first to be a better colour match; but upon checking how the fabrics looked when layered together I found any colour just very subtly dulled those large white-ish feathery-floral areas, whereas a lighter creamier-coloured backing really enhanced the colours of the charmeuse and gave them a beautiful inner glow that I preferred. Something to bear in mind when choosing a lining for lightweight, patterned fabrics; hold lining underneath the fashion fabric to check how it affects the colours before making a final decision. Sometimes an unexpected colour choice will look better.
The dress lines are quite simple and feminine, with a slight a-line curve, small cap sleeves and I lengthened the neck-tie to extend right around the length of and beyond the v-neckline, so it is both a tie and also a sort of “collar” that finishes the neckline. The skirt is cut flatteringly on the bias and I gave careful thought to the colour placement over the body. I wanted the darker, moodier colours to feature mostly and aimed for the splashes of those big abstract feathery flowers to appear over one shoulder and to bloom down the side and hem of the dress, front to back. ie. not on my tummy or right boom on the derriere. The dress closes with a burgundy invisible zip in the left bodice side seam, and I hand-rolled a narrow hem on the sleeves and lower hemline. All seams in both dress and lining are French seamed.
I altered the bodice pattern piece substantially from my first version because ultimately I decided that that dress incorporated an excessive degree of blousiness for my particular shape, or lack thereof, ahem. I pinned out about 3cm width from the lower edge and curved the lower edge up as marked in red, cutting out up to 5cm in height at CF, this removed a tonne of blousiness and so is only about a thousand times more flattering on me, rough estimate there. In lieu of lightly gathering the bodice evenly along most of its width into the skirt, instead I folded the width into four little folds, evenly distributed just out from either side of CF, treating the lining as underlining and folding them together. These folds can be seen more clearly from the inside of the dress.
I also added about 4cm in length to the skirt at the lower edge. I’m slightly doubtful about this added length, I don’t hate it but also am not bowled over with love for the length right now either. I may just live with it for a while but that extra 4cm may or may not just get lopped off at some point. I’ll just have to see how I go; weighing up the pros, such as would it look more chic if it was a bit shorter? against the cons; the main one being that I would have to re-do that hand-rolled hem. Hmmm…
Now, on another note: anyone who follows me on IG would know already about our recent, most utterly paradisiacal holiday ever! yep, I took my pictures on the beach during our holiday in the Maldives. And I thought I would show one example of my set-up for taking my own pictures when away, an activity at which I now consider myself an expert! I’m a big fan of packing as light as possible and saving myself any packing and carrying around bulky camera equipment. Just cannot be bothered with all that. Yeah, lazy, I know 🙂
When travelling, I just take my small travel camera and nothing else. And I look out for and take full advantage of any flat surface that I may come across, although if nothing presents itself I can at a pinch just sit the camera on its own little soft case. This is not completely ideal, but it’s doable if no other handy flat surface is around. Good flat surfaces include, but are not limited to: park benches, curbs, low walls, a level spot on a rise in a path. Rocks sometimes too, though rocks can be tricky and it’s imperative to check carefully that the camera is sitting perfectly stable and isn’t going to topple over and smash.
In the case of our last holiday, our cabin was on the beach and I used a flat-bottomed cup from our room. My camera sat up, safe and clean, up off the sand as pictured.
Anyway, whatever flat surface is at hand; I just set the timer function on my camera, pop the camera up on said flat surface, push the button and then race out in front. Voila. Does the job, and requires no big bulky camera equipment. Win!
Details:
Dress; Patrones 35-7 modified slightly, silk charmeuse
Location: Valessaru, the Maldives
Very beautiful, I can feel its softness from over here! Jo x
Lovely frock, lovely location! Don't hate me (cos that hem is beyootiful) but I'd vote for shorter in a snap election…..
Very elegant dress, and beautifully constructed. Your sewing skills are an inspiration.
This is a wonderful flowy and elegant Dress. I liked your first one made after this pattern already very much, too. Wonderful Pictures! SaSa
thank you! 🙂
Ive been ooohing & aaahing over your Maldives IG feed – what a treat!
But this dress, outstanding. Lovely fabric.
Beautiful – and I *love* that length for this fabric and style: it's so elegant… and I imagine, will provide a wonderfully flexible element in your wardrobe – day, evening, casual, semi-formal….
Thanks for the sewing eye-candy this morning. This dress is so lovely. I'm working up the courage to do some sewing with silk soon, and your dress is beautiful inspiration.
Your dress is beautiful! The fabric is so pretty and I like the longer length on it. You can't go past soft and floaty IMO.
Beautiful, beautiful!! I agree that the length shouldn't be shortened, the extra length gives the silhouette that extra chic and goes with the 1930's vibe of the silk and bias cut. It is really a work or art and I can only envy the feel of it.
Beautiful, beautiful!! I agree that the longer length gives it extra silhouette chic. It follows the `1930's' vibe perfectly with the silk and the bias cut. Apart from the consideration of the hand rolled hem, shortening this dress would take away a lot more than 4cm.
thank you Maureen! I think you are right and I'm keeping it long 🙂
This is SO beautiful! I agree, bias cut silk is just heavenly! And what a gorgeous backdrop! I might be in the minority here, but I LOVE the longer hemline. That 'just-below-the-knees' length is my personal favorite, especially in a swishy dress like this one. I think it's very flattering for the leg, and always feels more lady-like to me.
GORGEOUS!
I've been hankering for your next update for what has seemed like an eternity (your creations always make my week seem better), but it's been worth the wait.
As an aside, I'm surprised you don't travel with a mini version of something like this:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Camera-Bean-Bag/
You photos always turn out so well!
*Your
Aww, thanks so much Liz!
and that idea of a bean bag for your camera is quite brilliant! there were lots of terrific suggestions in the comments too, I really liked the one where you could use soup mix to fill it, and then if you got into some emergency survival situation it could be cooked and eaten, haha! 🙂
What a lovely dress! And impeccably finished as usual. Wasn't that bias cut silk difficult to work with?
I also love how you placed the print. I see a lot of big, semi-abstract prints around (although mostly not in such lovely fabric and with more garish colours) I usually shy away from them, but you're using it to great effect here.
Oh, and I think the length is really nice like this. Definitely more chic than 4 cm shorter.
Love it!
Soooo pretty! What lovely friends you have! I am sure they love to see what you create with their gift.
The dress is stunning! Your tan really highlights the colors in the silk!
Swooning! What a beautiful dress. I do like the hem length on you, though whenever I try this length myself I always lop it off and hem it shorter… it always makes me feel frumpy. Anyways, how nice you were able to show off your new dress to those who gifted you the fabric!
Just beautiful and its as pretty on the inside as out with your finishes! Very nice!
This is such a gorgeous dress! I have a question…maybe you can help me figure out what I am doing wrong. I made a dress that had a lining. Before the lining, the dress fit perfectly. Once I put the lining in, it was too tight on me. It wasn't a stretchy fabric for the dress, but it did give a little, but it wasn't tight at all. Once the lining was in, I couldn't get it on. The lining definitely wasn't a stretch or a give kind of fabric. It was a lightweight cotton. Does the type of fabric you line with matter?
Shirley Ann; thank you! and yes, the type of lining fabric can have quite a big effect. Could it be possible that the dress fabric had more give than you thought? or maybe that the lining was inadvertently cut a bit too small? In any case, the only thing to do is remove the lining (sorry!) and cut a new one for your dress, maybe think about going up a size to allow for the lack of give in the lining fabric. another option is to cut the lining on the bias, which will lend it a little more give. Alternatively, choose a different fabric for the lining that has a little more stretch built in to it. Even by itself, lining should never be at all tight. I hope my sight-unseen advice makes sense 🙂
Makes perfect sense! Thank you so much! I think it probably was a combination of dress fabric giving more than I thought and lining fabric giving nothing at all. Perhaps if I had made the dress one size larger. 🙁 I seem to have put on a few pounds recently and didn't take that into account when I cut out my dress….blah. Must do more walking! I cannot wait till summer time.
Oh, this is SO pretty. The fabric and the style are perfect on you (and the setting doesn't hurt, either).
Beautiful dress. The length is just perfect. Longer hemlines are in at the moment, so maybe you will adjust to this over time. And it does show the silk nicely. And when you want a change, then that hand rolled hem again!
beautiful fabric and a great pattern choice for it. love the watercolor look of the print. and I saw the background and wondered where near your usual photo locations the water had that tropical blue – then read about the vacation. sounds heavenly!
Gorgeous dress, idyllic location and what thoughtful friends. Well done all round! 🙂
A beautiful fabric, that you have enhanced with the lovely dress. I like the longer length skirt, its elegant on you.
Stunning dress. I love that fabric. Great job.
Beautiful dress! You have some lovely friends 🙂 The fabric is so pretty and I do like the length. I often use a similar setup at the beach.
Lovely for your holiday! I have adored your IG posts! This dress is beautiful!
That's how I'll be taking outfit posts here in Shanghai… on flat surfaces around Shanghai! Husbie is working way too much and my 2 year old isn't very sturdy as a tripod!
xoxox
Gorgeous dress and how wonderful to spend time in the Maldives.
Beautiful elegant dress.
that fabric is so lovely and it really suits the simple shaping of the dress…………….you interior finishes always put me to shame!! great to have appropriate location for new dress (and thoughtful friends!)
thank you very much Eimar!
Oh wow! What generous friends and an amazing make with their gift.
Also, MALDIVES!!!! Totes jel!
Gorgeous dress that looks wonderful on you just as it is. Thanks for showing us your photo tricks too. Perhaps if I went to the Maldives to practice…..
Great dress. Is the length just a shoe thing? As in, barefoot you're not sure but with some heels it would be perfect?
thank you, and yes, you're right; I do feel it looks much better with heels 🙂
Just beautiful, may I ask when you buy your fabric do you have something in mind or how do you know what's a good amount to buy to put in your stash?
thanks Michelle! and it's always hard to judge, usually I do have something in mind when I buy and I have been known to ring up home and get someone to check a pattern for me, other times I've googled the pattern details to find out an exact amount I need!
But if I just love some fabric and don't have an exact plan; I tend to go for 1m or up to 1.5m for a short, straight skirt or a little top, 2m for a fuller top or shirt or a longer fuller skirt and 3m for a dress. None of those are really hard nor fast rules and it's always a struggle to make that decision though!
thanks Jennifer! 🙂
Beautiful dress! I thought that sand looked different…the Maldives sound like heaven – but then so does Perth. You aren't likely to EVER see me walking on my North Sea beach barefoot in a short sleeved dress! I think the length is fine, but had I your legs, I'd always go for shorter. I read lately about calf-length being frumpy, but then elsewhere it's all the rage…I think hem length is one of those things that's rather personal.
Your dress is gorgeous Carolyn! The color palette is perfect for you and it does look so heavenly soft. I too, struggle with skirt lengths at times… I like a midi in theory until I see myself in it…then I wonder if it's right. I think this length is nice on you…you are tall and slender enough to make it work.
Your dress is beautiful. I live the watercolour print. My MIL bought some silk for me in Singapore and I am too scared to cut into it. I really don't know what to make from it.
Such a pretty dress! It screams spring! But, more importantly…..the Maldives?!?!?!?!?! Lucky freakin woman!
thanks so much Carlee! haha, I was hoping it screamed autumn since that's what we are having here! but I'm sure I'll enjoy wearing it come spring too 🙂
Stunning, stunning, stunning! Fabric and the blue waters of the Maldives, both too beautiful to be true on a rainy Sydney morning.