Tag Archives: Darning

On tights and socks…

After wearing only my own self-made tights throughout 2013 during my year of all-handmade, I have worn some RTW tights a few times lately.  And made a surprising discovery.

I actually prefer my self-made tights.
Funny, hmm?  One of the things I had been most looking forward to was getting back to wearing RTW tights again.  For some reason I think I had convinced myself that factory made, seamless tights would be sooooo superior; comfier, warmer, better fitting.  And NO inside leg seam, hurrah!  Life was going to be so great once I ditched those!
Well, nice, smooth, perfectly seam-free legs is a plus in the looks department, I grant them that; but otherwise I’ve found myself strangely disappointed with my RTW tights, almost immediately.  The fit is horrible.  I buy my designated size Talls, but find they still sink at the crotch over the course of a day, which is hyper annoying.  Meaning I have to find a discreet moment to hoink up each leg and redistribute them every now and then.  Annoying!
I have never had that problem with my own self-drafted tights.  I guess I had forgotten that a sinking crotch was ever a thing, at all!
Perhaps I shouldn’t have been surprised.  After all, my self-made tights are drafted to fit my legs perfectly, so um, they do.  Most RTW tights have two unshaped tubes for legs, the same circumference from thigh to ankle.  Obviously most women’s legs do not have the same circumference all the way down.  My own tights are bigger around the thigh, going in to smaller around the knee, going out to a bit bigger at the calf and shrinking in to skinnier around the ankle again.  What this means is that the tendency for an elasticated thing to migrate to an area of lesser girth, like from the thigh and down to the knee, which is what happens inevitably in an unshaped RTW tight; is not an issue.
The inside leg seam that is an unavoidable feature of my own tights; well undoubtably it is a less perfect look.  But it is also a helpful aid to putting on the tights correctly.  When you have a featureless tube it can sometimes be difficult to keep the legs straight and also to tell where you put your heel the last time you wore the tights, and they can easily get twisted up.  You never ever have this confusion with an inside leg seam there.
So I’m eating my own words, and as my current crop of rtw tights start to hole-up and die I might just go back to making my own again.  Ha!

In related news, I’ve been checking out the old sock drawer and found ew HOLES! the horror!  A whole bunch of poor sad hole-y socks were shoved hastily and lazily back into the drawer undarned at the end of winter last year and forgotten about.  Out of sight out of mind.  Bad me.
Fortunately I like darning; it’s old-fashioned but I find it quietly contemplative and a small meditation on slow “fashion”.  Not simply tossing out but pausing and thinking and doing; taking a few minutes to mend and prolong the life of a thing.

This one was particularly bad… yikes!!

However, when it came to the holes in my merino tights my approach was a little less holistic and a whole lot more expeditious!

Ugly yes, but well, hopefully it will keep them keeping on for just a little bit longer!

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Aries

Aries; the ram.
But… where is the
ram??  Well I am wearing him!  In the form of my pure wool felt cardigan/jacket.  Baa-aa!
And I did take a picture
of this inquisitive flock of girls while I was driving up the driveway to my parents’ place this morning.  We are here for a big family Easter
shin-dig 🙂
My cardigan was until very recently, a voluminous
drape-y wrap, which I bought in New Zealand a few years ago.  The fabric is so soft and snuggly,
making it beautifully warm and cosy, and I’ve always loved this deep olive
colour.  But the shape, while very fashionable
at the time that I bought it, eventually became very not.  I’m not going to
show you any pictures of me wearing it, as it was.  Especially with my hair… so just picture Samwise Gamgee in
LOTR and you’re getting a pretty good idea!  So unfortunately I have not worn it for aaaages and knew I
never would again either looking like that; but I still loved that soft wool and thought it definitely
deserved a second wind.
I like it all over again now.  I think it turned out sorta like an unstructured
tweed jacket; a casual, playful, loose and floppy version of the landed
gentry’s countrywear, like a cheeky, irreverent, younger brother of the same, if you
like.  And I still have my souvenir from New Zealand, in a newly wearable style  🙂
Details:
Jacket; based loosely on Simplicity 4698,
deep olive felted wool, refashioned from an old wrap
Skirt; my own design
based upon Vogue 7303, white stretch lace, details here
Tshirt; self drafted,
white cotton jersey, details here
Socks; handknitted by me,
to a 1960’s sock pattern, details here
Shoes; Francesco
Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

Warning; technical sewing blahdy-blah from here on  🙂

There were a few little holes, which I darned before doing anything else.

The new design is
partially based on the pattern Simplicity 4698 with major alterations.  Needed partly because of a severe lack of
fabric, and partly because the felt is so thick and spongy it just would not
suit a properly lined and tailored suit jacket anyway.  I have made this pattern up previously four times I
think, only one of which I still have

The pieces were all
reduced in size a lot, basically to match
the regular cardigan size that I wear, and the back princess seams and outer sleeve seams were eliminated.
I made it as a completely
unlined cardigan, with welt pockets.  The sewing lines of the welt are stabilised with a strip of corduroy.
To reduce bulk, because
the fabric really is very very thick! the pockets themselves are just a single
layer inside, sewn directly to the jacket front invisibly by hand.  I used lots of tightly spaced, tiny
stitches around the pockets but hid them inside the felt so they only show up as the faintest shadow on
the  right side of the
garment.  I edged the entire front,
collar, hemline and sleeve hems by turning under a tiny roll of fabric under
the edge and slip-stitching by hand. 
At the roll-point of the collar I switched the turn under to the other
side, to allow the front turnback of the collar to lie flat and true.  Those overlocked seams are remnants of original seams.

On the inside, I hand
slip-stitched all the new seam allowances down to “disappear” as invisibly as possible
against the cardigan, for a neat and tidy inner finish.  Maybe neater than the original overlocked finish, I think  😉
The buttonholes are all
embroidered by hand using 2 strands of embroidery floss, and the buttons are
nacre; sewed on upside down because the rough hewn wrong side of the buttons
was stylistically perfect for the rustic style I was going for.

It is quite a simple
re-fashion, basically a wrap front cardigan has been transformed to a suit
jacket style cardigan.  Not exactly
earth-shattering stoof here.  But I
am happy, since the new style means I am in love with it all over again and
will get a few more years wear out of it!

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Thoughts on a slow wardrobe…

This morning, I noticed a hole in one of my socks.  Now, your average non-sock-knitter wouldn’t give it a second thought, just toss them out, toddle off and spend a handful of bucks on a bunch of new ones.  But I fetched my darning mushroom…
And as usual when I do anything sock-related, I pondered life, the universe and everything…
 and about “things”.  One really appreciates “things” one has made oneself, don’t you think?  There is that first-hand experience of the time and effort that goes into making some thing.   You come to treasure that thing.  Ergo, you take care of it, and you fix it up if something happens to it.  So, that thing lives on to be useful again.

My handmade socks have really drilled this basic and yet game-changing notion in to me more than any other of my handmade things.  
I think I am less wasteful and more mindful of consumption, thanks to the hours I have spent knitting my own socks.  
Because for sure, knitting one’s own socks is a very humbling endeavour.  Particularly when one walks past those racks of socks in the department stores, $10 for 3 pairs.

I am often asked “why bother?” with a handmade wardrobe.  Why bother spending hours knitting your own socks when it takes so looooong and they are so cheap and easy to buy?  
Well, I don’t know…. but I do take good care of my socks now

(my tutorial on darning is here)

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Darning; a how to

First of all, I’d like to thank you for your brilliant suggestions for my style statement!  As I read them I just thought, well, how nice everyone was … thankyou all for “getting” me.  It’s really hard to assess yourself and sometimes you need friends to chip in with an outside viewpoint, which is often so much truer than one’s own jaded viewpoint.  My mother rang me this morning to say how she thought all your comments were so lovely and all valid… so thankyou again!  I think they’re all wonderful and I’m adopting all of them.
Today I’m doing a little tutorial on darning.  I’m well aware there are a lot of people who think I’m absolutely crazy for knitting my own socks, how do I know this?  because this fact elicits gales of laughter if one of my friends lets it slip at some gathering, and someone there will always insist on me lifting a jeans leg to expose a sock to prove it.  But I like knitting, and I’ve gone off knitting cardigans and jumpers, I’ve got plenty of scarves now, and I find socks easy as well as useful, so there it is.
I made my first pair of socks about five years ago and I recently had to darn a hole in the toe of one of these so I took a few progress photos to illustrate how this traditional old method works.
I’m good at darning (don’t laugh)  I used to help out in my sons’ school uniform shop and once a boarder brought in his wool blazer with a hole in it and it was passed on to me as they knew I was a seamstress… when I had finished it (if I say so myself I’d done a pretty good job using a very fine wool thread so the darned hole was almost indistinguishable from the fabric around it) for the next week it was passed around to show other mothers who came in and who marvelled at it, until the boy came back in to pick it up.  I was a little embarrassed but inwardly kinda chuffed at the attention it got…
So I’m not using a fine wool thread to darn this sock here today, but a much thicker sock wool and in a contrasting colour so it will definitely not be indistinguishable from the sock but this won’t matter, you’ll see why later…  This is what you will need… a darning “mushroom” (these probably have a proper name but I’ve always called them mushrooms because that’s what they look like), wool thread, scissors, needle and your hole-y sock.

Run your thread in a running stitch adjacent to the hole and in an upper corner to secure the end in the fabric…

Take the thread through the opposite edge of the hole with a few running stitches, turn, place a few running stitches going back to the hole, then lay the thread back across the hole, do a few running stitches into the opposite edge, and so on.  What you are creating here is a warp of parallel threads all secured as well as possible in the edges of the hole.

Now, using the same method of securing the thread at the edges, weave the thread up and down across and through through the lines you just laid out.  When you come back down next to each woven line, weave down and up in the opposite way.  With each “pass”, secure the thread with a couple of running stitches in the edges of the hole.  This helps stabilise the broken and loose threads into each other, the body of the fabric, and the new woven patch all together.

And voila.  Not an invisible patch, but here I am modelling the final darned sock.  Oh, you can’t see it?  Well, this is why perfection in darning one’s winter socks is not strictly necessary…

Details:
Skirt; my own design, charcoal jersey knit
Top and cardigan; Country Road
Scarf; my own design, black wool
Leggings; Metalicus
Boots; Andrea and Joen, from Uggies

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