Tag Archives: Fabulous Fabrics

Rediscovering the full-length skirt

This skirt was made last summer when I felt in the mood for something long and swishy; inspired by a skirt I had seen in a parade at Ricarda.  I can’t remember who the designer was.  This polyester chiffon was on super special at Fabulous Fabrics and I bought the rest of the roll, about 3m.  This skirt used every last cm! My starting point was Butterick 3134, a great basic pattern to have as it contains a pattern for each of two, three and four gore A-line skirts.  I used the three gore version, without the waistband.  Customising proceeded as follows:  each piece was lengthened and tapered down the left side to a “shark-tooth”point.  To the bottom of each piece was added a huge gathered part-doughnut shaped piece of fabric, skewed with a thicker doughnut width to the high side, narrowing to a lesser width on the low side, to create the ruffled swirly hemline.  The gores were then pieced together.  A silver bemsilk lining was cut using my old standby Vogue 7303, and the edge of the skirt was finished with a fine handkerchief hem. 
 I wore this a lot; it felt so elegant and feminine to wear as it flutters and kicks out with each step.  I tried to show this in the picture by getting an action shot as you can’t capture the breezy beauty of it when its just hanging flat.
Although grey is never my first choice when it comes to choosing colours for my wardrobe, and I really bought this fabric because it was a bargain, it proved to be right on trend as Australia had a love affair with grey that lasted all last summer.  Grey, grey, grey, or alternatively charcoal, stone, cement or putty (these colour descriptions from a friend that works in a very trendy boutique!)  
Why does a country so saturated with sunlight choose the drabbest of colours to garb itself?
Other details:
Camisole and cardigan; Country Road
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Top that doesn’t suit me?

Just a day working, running errands, doing chores, gardening and a bit of grocery shopping, so didn’t feel the need to dress to impress.  This top I made about two years ago, and dug it out from the top of the wardrobe just to put it in the blog.  I feel like I’m wearing some real golden oldies lately… need to move on to some new stuff tomorrow…
The top pattern is my own design, polyester net cut out and draped over Bessie (the dressmaking dummy) to fit my vision.  The front has a slightly draped, cowl-y effect, and the front piece was cut about 12cm longer in the side seams, then gathered and pleated to fit the back side seam in the bust region.  I feel this makes a nice soft pleating effect over the bust.  I was going for a slightly medieval sleeve feel with the extended bit on the end of the sleeve, with limited success as I find this flappy bit extremely annoying when I’m doing housework.  The fabric is see through, so I sewed in a soft jersey “vest” lining in the body seams.  This top was sewn entirely on the overlocker making for a very quick construction; I spent perhaps ten times as long cutting, draping and pinning onto Bessie to get just the right effect.  For an artistic effect, I have put all the seams on the outside of the garment.  Not surprisingly this makes for a very comfortable top!
Even though I feel this top has had its day and I’m ready to toss it out, its been a lovely flattering shape and design and one I plan to use again.   In different colours.
In the latest Australian Stitches was an article on finding the colours that suit you, and I spent some time studying it last night, and besieging my husband with inane questions like “is my skin ivory or beige?” and “are my eyes unusual green or are they just hazel?” before he glazed over.  Seems they are introducing a new system with new categories, with names involving Bright/Dusky, Warm/Cool and Dark/Light.  I’m still not sure what I am, but I know that this top is probably not in my colours!  I had my colours done years ago, and after a lot of pfaffing around with swathes of fabric I was pronounced to be an Autumn.  I’ve been quite happy to be an Autumn.

The jeans are favourite summer jeans, washed so often the care and fabric label is washed white!  I do remember however that they are New Zealand made, from tencel which is light and cool for summer.  The shape is so flattering I traced it out last year and made an identical pair out of white linen which has been just as good.  I might try this again this year out of a different fabric.

On right is a picture of the wounded modelling her stylish sock, which I might say she has done her darndest to strip off.  I think purple and pinky/beige are her colours, no?  Maybe a Spring?

Other details:
Jeans; Development
Thongs/flipflops; Mountain Design
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My Marni fix

Spring/Summer 07, Marni had a collection that struck me with lightning, fashion-wise.  I loved and could have worn simply everything in the parade.  On my budget, not to mention that Marni is unavailable in Perth, and also given that I love to sew, the only option was to try to recreate the looks myself.
The slimline black oversize sports parka over a crisp white skirt was my absolute favourite look, the one I just had to have, and one I wanted to reproduce as closely as possible.
So here is my effort, compared to the real deal.  Please excuse that the model on the right is far less attractive.
Photo above from Marni Spring/Summer 07
www.style.com, see here
On pulling it out I realised its no longer a look that I am wearing as I’ve moved on fashion-wise, but as previously expressed in this blog, Wear Everything in the Wardrobe is my new rule.  My Monday morning gals expressed surprise this morning that I was wearing black, as its not a colour I really wear much.
I remember at the time I was first wearing it I looked quite different from everyone out and about on the street, as it wasn’t a look that had hit Perth and wouldn’t yet for another 18 months when everyone was into this look all of a sudden.  We lag a bit behind the fashions here.
The skirt is Vogue 7303 view A, seen previously here, and the top is my own design.   Well, actually its really Marni’s design, slavishly copied by me, but by “my design” I meant that I didn’t use a pattern, but planned, cut and fitted the pieces to Bessie (the dressmaker’s dummy) to achieve the look I wanted.  I was particularly pleased with the high bunchy collar and felt (still do) that the finished result is easy and comfortable to wear.
I think its a very urban look, perhaps better suited to striding about the city.  A problem with the black parka, given my lifestyle, is its tendency to attract and display animal fur, with most unattractive results.
Speaking of which, a comment asked after Sienna, the furry beast lying half out of sight in my photo.  The silly-billy has cut open a pawpad on a sharp bit of fence in our yard and is hobbling about looking woebegone (poor love), so I’m walking alone for a while.  However I promise to include her again, as requested.  The camera loves her (yeah, baby! Austin Powers style), so I think she deserves a photo-shoot… yes?
Other details:
Shoes; Perrini, bought many years ago
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Good hair day

Friday, 23rd October 2009

Had a sociable day today; met some friends this morning, went on a long walk along the beach later with another friend, and wound up the day with a hair appointment. Ah, isn’t getting your hair done one of the most self-indulgent and luxurious events in one’s life? I love sitting and flicking through the latest fashion magazines, getting a cup of tea, having my hair washed and head massaged, followed by the blow-dry that makes it look so much nicer than I can ever achieve myself at home! Such a treat…
Today’s skirt is one I made last summer using Vogue 7880 view B, but without the silly hanging bits that are illustrated on the pattern cover. I’ve always left these off actually. I used a lovely burnout polyester chiffon in a wild kaleidoscope of yummy colours; chocolate, raspberry, lime, lemon, pistachio… Don’t you love how colours are defined in terms of food nowadays? Makes you salivate just describing them; a sort of feast for the senses. Maybe that’s the point. You don’t hear a garment described as a brown top any more, its alway a chocolate top, or a coffee, mocha or toffee top (as appropriate).
Even though the fabric is chiffon and quite luxurious I’ve used it as a casual skirt from day 1, even bike-riding and beach-walking, like today! The skirt has many layers and bits hanging down all around which flutter and ripple in the breeze in a lovely feminine way. As the fabric is see-through I extended the front and back bemsilk lining so that it formed a self petticoat underneath, and just marked the original length as to where to attach the skirt bottom pieces to it.
This has been a great pattern, although I have to admit that the first time I used it I found it quite complicated and attached the lining pieces to the bottom skirt pieces inside out and had to unpick it all; its a pattern that you have to concentrate on and trust that it will all come together all right in the end – it does!
Other details:
Top; Metalicus
Camisole (under); Country Road
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs
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Big day out

Thursday, 22nd October 2009

Thankyou for your lovely comments!
Today is a big day, my daughter’s final day at school. Her school makes a big deal out of it for us parents too; it started with a flower ceremony, followed by final assembly, morning tea, chapel service and then lunch; in order. Quite a day. So I needed a DRESS! I made this previously for a lunch held at the beginning of spring, but couldn’t wear it without risk of freezing half to death. So, held it over for this occasion.
Its New Look 6699 view G,J,L again, a little ripper of a pattern. As the lace I bought for it was completely see-through, I lined it completely with a cotton batiste petticoat. I added wide coffee-coloured border lace around the bottom of the petticoat and a simple tube sleeve of the same lace around the armholes. I moved the invisible zip closure to the left side seam as usual and eliminated the back centre seams. The midriff is of gathered silk, and I also added a long sash of the stuff to tie at the back. You can’t see it in the picture, but I added a close-enough-to invisible pocket on the right side, just big enough for a mobile phone and a credit card. I think I’ll do this to all my party dresses in future… so useful…
Got several compliments for this dress today, which was very gratifying! Ah yes, we seamstresses always deflect praise, “oh, thankyou but it was easy, nothing to it, really” but its nice to get recognition, no? Here’s a challenge, approach someone you don’t really know very well and pay them a compliment. It will make their day and, by association, will give you a boost too!
Other details:
Shoes; Marco Santini, from Marie Claire
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Secretarial duties

Tuesday, 20th October 2009

Today did my duty as secretary of the Ladies’ Auxiliary at school, so dressed secretary-like. Kind of.
This top is McCalls 4454 view C, but made using pieces of leftover silks I had from previous projects and some velvet ribbon I had bought for something else, but not used. The ripped strips of silk were sewn to a bemsilk facing version of the camisole after draping, pinning and fitting on Bessie, (my faithful dummy) and another lining attached inside to hide the bits and ends.
I really like the combination of grey, purplish grey, and bronzy browns; giving it subtle smoky style, and the soft, shimmery layers of translucent silk are sort of ethereal. The ripped edges form a rebellious and untailored contrast to the pants.
The necklace pendant is also self-made.
Other details;
Pants, Morrison
Shoes; Vicenza, from Soletta shoes

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Bouchee dress

Monday, 19th October 2009
Meeting my Monday morning gals today, so I’m wearing the hot pink Metalicus cardi they gave me for my birthday to show it off. I’m not sure about my dress this morning. Not sure because I always feel I look like an elephant in it. Its from McCalls 4454 view D, which is actually a little top pattern. I used it because I really like the bodice arrangement, and just drastically elongated the whole thing to dress length. I also added some triangular inserts to splay out the skirt and hemline, and added (artistic touch!) two HUGE pockets diagonally and randomly to the front. The pockets were also to cover some discoloured areas; as the fabric was originally from the remnant bin at Fabulous Fabrics because it had partially faded in patches.
Its not been a bad dress as its very cool to wear in summer, but … all ladies like to avoid looking like an elephant. So this may be its last outing. If you are a pear shape, like me, then its probably best to avoid long A-line dresses with no waist definition. I think I need waist definition. The funny thing is I made this same dress (see here) before using patchwork fabric bought from Calico and Ivy, and it looked great (shrug).
The necklace was also made by me, during my beading phase. My ladies this morning admired it!!! Still, they’re always nice to me!
Other details:
Cardigan; Metalicus
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs
Bag; Gucci
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To sleep, perchance to dream

With the lovely warm summery weather here to stay, fingers crossed, its time to don summer jammies. My choice this year is sort of what a saucy fifties housewife might choose. The colours of mint green combined with red are kind of fifties, I think. The lace with red ribbon is very lingerie, and not pairing it with either black, red or white saves it from being tarty. A final touch was the three apple buttons, (Eve, gettit?) left over from a baby jumper I knitted many moons ago. The shorts have POCKETS! Well, I had enough fabric, so why not. The shorts were made using last year’s summer pyjama bottoms as a template, cut off short. The top is McCalls 4454 view C without the tie. I’ve used this pattern many times, and usually modify it by sewing it much narrower at the torso (about 4cm each side) and inserting a left side zip, but this time its as is and about 5cm longer.

My husband wanted to know why I’m not modelling it, well, ahem I think that’s obvious, no? But thanks for the suggestion…
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