Tag Archives: Own Design

Favourite skirt, styled in 6 different ways

Something different for today.  After my office duties I am taking my daughter out for a special treat to lunch; Fashion Friday at the Globe, so I’m wearing this dress I’ve posted about before.  Don’t want to post another picture of the same dress, so instead I’m delivering something I promised to do about a month ago, namely showing the versatility of my favourite skirt, first posted about here.
Its made of a slightly shimmery pale pink damask from my favourite skirt pattern Vogue 7303, with my own variation in the addition of three extra layers both front and back, joined onto the lining and separate from each other.  So effectively it has eight different hems.  And yes, it was extremely complex to make.  But worth it.
For today’s post I’ve styled it to be worn as a casual skirt for summer and winter, as slightly more dressy (say if I’m meeting friends during the day) winter and summer, and finally as a semi-formal skirt again for both summer and winter.  So you can see how versatile it’s been in my wardrobe!

Left; for casual summer wear, with a tank top and thongs(flipflops), and right; for casual winter wear

Below left; for nice-ish summer wear, and right; for winter wear (ie. if meeting other ladies or my husband somewhere for lunch or morning tea)
Left; worn as if for a semi-formal outdoor summer function and right; for a dressy winter function
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Achieving a perfect fit (thanks to Bessie)

I decided last night to wear this dress today, long before I remembered it was Remembrance Day.  Seemed fortuitous when I saw the RSL poppies being sold on the streets.
This dress is derived from McCalls 4453 view C, which is actually a halter neck top pattern.  However there were many things I wanted for this dress that didn’t correspond with the pattern, so I really only used the bodice fronts from the pattern and the rest was designed by me using Bessie, the dressmaker’s dummy.   The bodice is quite close fitting, with no elastication.  Also the skirt has been elongated, and altered a lot.  Actually I just typed in a whole paragraph detailing how it was altered, and reading it through I decided it was boring, so deleted it!  The result is my own vision, originally intended for a beach dress, but great for a light summer dress too.  The fabric, bought on super special from Fabulous Fabrics, is blotchy red and pink polyester chiffon, with multicoloured and silver sparkles all over.
I really like my colour scheme today, with just a touch of  black.  As a rule I don’t like black and red together as it makes me think “emo”, but I think the stone white of my cardigan makes it all OK.
My sister-in-law asked in a comment how I found the sizing of New Look patterns.  I find them to fit fine, with my usual adjustments.  Through trial and error over the years, I now manage to achieve perfect fit on my own garments pretty much every time.  I’ll summarise my procedure on sizing my own clothing just in case this helps others:

I always use as my starting point the sizing recommended on the pattern envelope.  Depending on what you are making, either the bust, waist or hip measurement will be the most important consideration.  For top and blouse patterns the bust size is crucial, for flared skirts the waist size is crucial, and for more fitted skirts and pants the waist and hip sizes are the most important measurements to consider when choosing your pattern size.
During the cutting stage I take into account my own personal body shape.  All women will have a pretty good awareness of their own shape, and will already know if they are pear-shaped, hourglass, boy shaped or petite (lucky you), round, top heavy, etc.  I myself am slightly pear-shaped.  I take a smaller size blouse or top than I do in pants or skirts.  So, when I am trialling a new pattern of a dress, I generally adjust by cutting the top to my (smaller) bust and waist measurement, then from the waist to hip taper out to the (larger) hip measurement.
To use another example, for a woman with a big bust but small hips, she may cut her tops to her larger size bust, but taper down to a smaller size going on down to the hip.
Patterns usually have the waistline marked, and the hipline is sometimes marked, you may have to work this out yourself but its generally at the widest point below the waistline.
No matter what garment I am making, I usually fit the pieces to Bessie to check during the sewing process, and/or try them on myself several times also to check if everything fits where it should.  I do the fitting for a garment before I do any seam finishing (overlocking or pinking) or ironing, as adjustments can be made quite easily during these early stages.  Once I am satisfied that the garment fits everywhere it should, and I’ve made the necessary adjustments through the addition of darts, letting out seams or whatever is required, I complete sewing the seams and finishing.

Other details:
Cardigan; Morrison
Beaded thongs (flipflops); bought at some little shop in South Africa
Poppy; for Remembrance Day

 

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Wrapper’s delight (and the memories you wear each day)

Please excuse the terrible pun above, but today’s outfit is an entirely wrapped affair.  The top is New Look 6252 view C, a nice little sleeveless top that wraps and ties at the back (the knot can be a little annoying when you are sitting in a hardback chair, but hey, nothing’s perfect).  I know its boring, oh yawn, yet another white top.  Actually I’ve realised since my clean-out I have way too many white tops, and its time for some serious updating in the form of dying and/or embellishment projects.  However, this was made from the leftovers from another project, which excuses it a little bit.
I wish I could say I made the skirt, but I actually found it in a secondhand shop.  It’s silk, with a slight gilding on the leaf print, which appears to be hand painted although I can’t be sure.  Its a wrap skirt, with a beautifully flared panel on the front that billows and blows around when you walk.
I love shopping in secondhand shops and op shops, not just because of the cost-saving factor, but of all the invisible stories emanating from the clothes.  Everything is jammed in and stuffed in all any-old-how and I love how you have to burrow and delve about through treasure after treasure.  Everything is so unexpected and completely unrelated to the items all around it, unlike in a boutique where new items have been carefully chosen by a buyer, arranged in colour and/or type and presented all pristine and ready for you to buy.  In an op shop you find yourself speculating on individual items, and why they have been discarded.  Something may have obviously been bought in Greece, say, with a label all in Cyrillic, perhaps bought on holiday and now no longer loved.  Myself when I buy something on holiday it becomes like a souvenir that I can’t possibly part with, simply because of the memories bound up in its purchase.  I rarely go shopping by myself and just buy things; my shopping excursions are usually with a friend, or on holidays or some such, so that my wardrobe is often a reminder of those occasions.  For example, today’s skirt was bought when I was out with my friend E and we discovered this secondhand shop.  And the top is leftovers from a trench coat (posted about here) I made with a Fabulous Fabrics gift voucher given to me by the Monday morning gals for my birthday last year.
I bought the beads etc for the earrings when my friend J drove us to the Gypsy Bead shop (now sadly no more) and a bunch of us all got madly into beading.  Oh, the hours we spent around each others’ dining room tables, stringing beads, chatting…

Other details:
Skirt; da Vida, secondhand
Sandals; Anna, bought in Marie Claire
Earrings; self-made

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What to do when the “whites” wash turns out pink

I used my old favourite Butterick 4985 to make this top out of pink embroidered “bobbly” cotton, with the sleeves snitched from a different dress pattern Burda 7897.  I narrowed the torso region as always, and constructed a loop closure for the buttons, instead of the usual buttonholes.  When it was finished I felt it was too plain, so I then sewed on random strips and bits of leftover lace, broderie englaise and rick-rack I had in my leftovers tin.  Then I felt it was too “pretty”, and needed some punking up.  So out came a red T-shirt that had been a proven “runner” in the past.  That’s runner in dying terms, obviously.  Yes, it had mistakenly been included in a wash load of all white garments, which I discovered upon opening the washing machine had all turned a lovely shade of pink.  Take a deep breathe and count to ten.  Yes, I did have to purchase all new socks and T-shirts for my sons, but this situation doesn’t have to be all bad.
I could put this quality to good use.  What’s the old saying, when life gives you lemons, make lemonade?  This is the home seamstress’ version.
I soaked the offending T-shirt with my new blouse, purposely scrunching the blouse in a way to result in a random blotchy effect, and hey presto!  I LOVE this final look, and wear this a lot.  Every now and then the pink blotches start to fade a bit, then I just repeat the soaking process.

Today I’m meeting the Monday morning gals, and decided to ride my bike as the weather is perfect, warm with a slight breeze, but not too hot that I’m going to turn up like a sweaty exhausted wreck.  I also visited a friend for her birthday, then rounded up the day with riveting challenging work in the office (ha ha)

Other details:
Skirt; Morrison
Shoes; Timberland
Necklace; self-made during my beading fad

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I’ve got a grey cloudy feeling…

Please excuse my funny facial expression in this photo.  I think I’m suffering from early-morning-itis.
I think of this skirt as a sort of shabby bohemian look.  It was made from Vogue 7880, although you probably wouldn’t pick it from the pattern thanks to the mad improvisation going on.  I used view B minus the weird hanging bits, the view I like the best as it has such a random jaggedy hemline.  The upper section is out of soft grey and fawn cotton, printed to look like patchwork.   All of the skirt pieces were shortened by about 8cm and joined as per the pattern.  Then I sewed together random strips and panels of a mixture of lace and broderie anglaise cheesecloth to the lining to make a “shabby chic” frothy petticoat underneath.  
I originally bought about 2m of this embroidered cheesecloth on a whim and made this top, then used the leftovers to make today’s skirt and this dress!  So it was a worthy investment of, oh, about $30 for two and a half garments (this skirt being the half)!
Its a grey and overcast day today, so I am matching the weather in my attire, how Wuthering Heights is that?!  See, I can be quite literary in my shallowness, when I choose to be.
After my usual “walkies” this morning (not wearing these shoes!) I’m just working in the office today, in between taxi-ing my daughter to and from exams, and later I will visit a friend who has hurt her back.

Other details:
Cardigan; Metalicus
Camisole; Country Road
Sandals; Vicenza, bought from Soletta shoes
Necklace; bought from Live!

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Space Age nun

When I saw this heavy, slightly shiny fabric at Fabulous Fabrics I immediately visualised this dress.  I pictured something severe and unusual.  When it was finished and I first put it on and looked at myself I immediately thought, “Futuristic nun.”  Sort of what Sister Perpetua on board a space station like Battlestar Galactica would be wearing, say.  Still, I really like the dress, and feel it’s quite unusual and perhaps it will help me get in touch with my inner sci-fi geek.
The dress is basically Burda 8511 with some modifications.  Namely the centre back seam was eliminated to make the back one piece, and the front and back panels were cut with no shaping down the side.  I sewed the front shaping darts, but not those on the back.  I inserted shorter white panels inside the side seams, inset under the front and back panels by about 2cm and with an inverted pleat at the underarm seam.  The final effect is of a white slip underneath a heavier tunic.  I had enough of this white fabric leftover to make this top.  The dress has no zips or buttons as it’s loose enough to just pull over my head.  The white velvet ribbon is simply sewn inside the side seams at the waist and tied to bring the whole thing in together and give it some shape.
The pendant is one that was given to me by my parents probably back in the mid seventies.  Its pewter, made by Jorgen Jensen of Denmark, and has a poem inscribed on the front.  It reads as follows:  

Mind these three: 
T.T.T. 
Hear their chime: 
Things Take Time.
Isn’t that lovely?  Just the sort of advice a future nun might impart…
Other details:
Shoes; Perrini, bought quite a few years ago from I don’t know where
Pendant; Jorgen Jensen of Denmark, gift from my parents
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International Wear a Dress Day

Today I went to the cinema with a friend so decided to wear my NEW dress for the occasion.  Also, Dress-a-Day has decreed today “International Wear a Dress Day”, so how could I not?  Any excuse…

I’m quite proud of this dress.  I made it specifically to go with this very expensive cardigan I bought several years ago.  I’ve worn this cardigan with other things that have now gone the way of the Good Samaritan’s bin, and I needed to have something else for it to go with.  I thought this polyester chiffon fabric was a pretty good match for the (silk) chiffon pockets on the cardigan (see detail picture below), and envisaged a floaty, dreamy, pretty summer dress.
The pattern, Vogue 7748, is one I bought years ago but not yet used, so I decided to give it a whirl.  It seemed a good base for a wrap dress, with no frills.  However I thought it was a bit too basic and I wanted just a few frills!  I also wanted the final effect of the dress to be a kind of jumble of flowery colours, without a discernible pattern repeat.  The addition of a few ruffles could help achieve this.
I cut each of the skirt pieces to half their supposed length.  The right front, which ends up crossed over the left front in the finished garment, was further shaped in a curve up to the waistline.  For each skirt piece, I joined together three large part doughnut shapes, and added these to the bottom of each of the skirt pieces.
I also added a double ruffle around the neckline, although only slightly ruffled as I’m not a very frilly person!  
I didn’t make the belt in the pattern; but added long sashes to the waist edge of each dress front, and left a small gap in the right side seam for the left sash to pass through, so I can tie it at the back of the dress.  I also added a sleeve detail (see below picture) to look more feminine and interesting than the plain hem indicated in the pattern.
The skirt hem and the neck ruffles were finished with a black rolled hem edge, done on the overlocker.
Because the fabric is see-through, I made a separate petticoat out of lightweight jersey (see below, modelled by Bessie).  This is simply a tanktop bodice, copied from a tanktop I already had, and a quarter-circle each for the skirt front and back.  This was just run up on the overlocker, and the edges left raw.  Its just a petticoat after all, and the jersey won’t unravel or fray.

I felt good and comfortable in this dress today, so it’ll probably get a lot of use this summer.

Other details:
Cardigan; Alannah Hill
Shoes; Micam by Joanne Mercer, bought in Hobbs

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Rediscovering the full-length skirt

This skirt was made last summer when I felt in the mood for something long and swishy; inspired by a skirt I had seen in a parade at Ricarda.  I can’t remember who the designer was.  This polyester chiffon was on super special at Fabulous Fabrics and I bought the rest of the roll, about 3m.  This skirt used every last cm! My starting point was Butterick 3134, a great basic pattern to have as it contains a pattern for each of two, three and four gore A-line skirts.  I used the three gore version, without the waistband.  Customising proceeded as follows:  each piece was lengthened and tapered down the left side to a “shark-tooth”point.  To the bottom of each piece was added a huge gathered part-doughnut shaped piece of fabric, skewed with a thicker doughnut width to the high side, narrowing to a lesser width on the low side, to create the ruffled swirly hemline.  The gores were then pieced together.  A silver bemsilk lining was cut using my old standby Vogue 7303, and the edge of the skirt was finished with a fine handkerchief hem. 
 I wore this a lot; it felt so elegant and feminine to wear as it flutters and kicks out with each step.  I tried to show this in the picture by getting an action shot as you can’t capture the breezy beauty of it when its just hanging flat.
Although grey is never my first choice when it comes to choosing colours for my wardrobe, and I really bought this fabric because it was a bargain, it proved to be right on trend as Australia had a love affair with grey that lasted all last summer.  Grey, grey, grey, or alternatively charcoal, stone, cement or putty (these colour descriptions from a friend that works in a very trendy boutique!)  
Why does a country so saturated with sunlight choose the drabbest of colours to garb itself?
Other details:
Camisole and cardigan; Country Road
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