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Scrap dress

You know how after a sewing project is finished you nearly always end up with scraps, sometimes of such a decent size you can’t toss them out… but not enough to do anything with on their own.  So sometimes I try to actually cobble these scraps together to make some sort of wearable thing.  This is a plan that meets with variable success… 
In spite of which, I’ve made a simple little day dress, out of some of my most recently generated scraps.  I think it will be OK for this summer.  Basically it was a free dress.  Oh, OK I did have to buy a zip, so technically it cost a couple of dollars.
I used New Look 6699 again, modified.  I kind of winged the skirt, as I didn’t have enough fabric for anything.  This one falls somewhere in between the two in the pattern; more A-line that the pencil version, but not as wide as the other.  The lower tiers are all attached under the hem of the top skirt.  I hemmed some but not all of the tiers, because I like the idea of the skirt getting a little raggedy and frayed, I think this look will accentuate the vaguely peasant-y vibes the dress has already.
I also altered the neckline of the bodice and put in a picture below of the bodice and pattern pieces, for the following reason:  My sister-in-law and I were recently discussing a pattern which she had dismissed because it was a V neck, but of course the neckline of a bodice is the easiest thing to alter about a pattern.  You don’t have to cut along the lines of the pattern, just cut out the one you prefer.  Also this pattern has sun-dressy straps with buttons closure at the back while I wanted a one-piece back bodice, so I just pinned the two pieces together and cut out as illustrated below in the photo.  One thing to keep in mind, if you do this you will need a longer zip…  This fabric is the leftovers from Sam’s shirt.

This is a close-up of the shot cotton fabric I used for Craig’s shirt, the leftovers of which are the midriff and the lower tier of my new dress.  Here you can see the bright blue warp and the neon yellow weft.  Amazing to think such a subdued colour can come from these brights, no?

The bodice is lined with the leftovers of the primrose voile I used for the petticoat of my Christmas dress.  The scraps of the Christmas dress itself have been used as one of the skirt tiers, and as bias binding on the neck and armhole edges.  Actually I think this bright floral bias binding against the black and white check turned out to be my favourite feature of this dress.

The other blue skirt tier is from the very last leftovers from this shirt and this dress.
The skirt front and back is the leftovers from this dress.

Detail:
Dress; New Look 6699 with modifications, partly my own design, various cottons
Sandals; Mican by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs shoes
Nail varnish; BYS Mint Condition

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All dressed up with no place to go…

This dress is sooo cool and light and easy.  It’s funny to think this was last year’s Christmas dress… it’s done pretty well.  Perhaps getting a bit “round the house-ish” but still quite nice.  So here I am today, all dressed up kinda nice to venture out to the shops.  But this is the thing…
The funny thing about Australia is that from Christmas Day until well past New Years Day, almost nothing happens.  By that I mean, a lot of shops and businesses will be shut.   Christmas Day being on a Saturday and Boxing Day on a Sunday, so of course both Monday and Tuesday last week were public holidays.  It’s almost a whole week of near shut-down.  Some of the BIG stores have BIG sales, but sensible people avoid those like the plague.
So it’s like this.  The kids are on holidays and it has been extremely hot; I feel like all of us are slumping into a heat induced coma and we are starting to forget what day it is… which is partly why I decided today was the day to rouse myself.   I should get out and tick a few errands off my list, make a few essential purchases at the grocery store.  My inner just-do-it gal is screaming at me to… well, just do it.   So off I trot only to find the streets deserted for yet another day.  Whaaaat?  Ohhhh, New Years’ Day delayed public holiday…. turn around and drive home again.
Luckily for me, I have a little local supermarket I walk to nearly every day which will be open for any essentials, but, well it’s not every day I can motivate myself to actually drive places, park and get bigger business done.
I hope I can get motivated all over again tomorrow…

Details:
Dress; Simplicity 3745, modified to be slimmer fitting, lined and with pockets, white dotted swiss voile and lace
Sandals; Vincenzo, from Soletta shoes
Bag; Gucci
Sunnies; RayBans

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Sam’s shirt

This is the shirt I made for our youngest for a Christmas present.  The funny thing about making this shirt was that I cut it out and made it up with absolutely no attempt at secrecy whatsoever, and it was still a surprise to him when he opened up his present!  Luckily a happy surprise…   Yah, Sam is not particularly observant of or interested in my sewing projects, but will sometimes grudgingly give approval or advice when pressed.
This shirt is just the thing for his style.  Sort of conservative, but with the youthful twist.  He currently likes to look a tiny bit cool, but not really.  Sorta hip while still wanting some invisibility.  Just… well, a teenager.
The fabric is cotton check, a bit scrunchy and randomly creased like Tim’s, but is not stretchy and was correspondingly a lot easier to work with.  In fact I love this fabric.
I used the old faithful Burda 7767, with the following modifications; the addition of two bias cut breast pockets with shaped bias cut flaps, shorter sleeves, added sleeve tabs and shoulder tabs, a longer curved hemline, and the use of silver snaps in lieu of buttons throughout.  I also later added an iron motif, like I did for Tim’s shirt, but this isn’t in the photo I took on Christmas Day here, because … oh, kind of long story.  Basically when we were in Spotlight choosing Tim’s motif (Tim was still away working) I asked Sam which one he liked the best.  He promptly and without hesitation chose a square motif with a sailing ship, which was quite cute but I also knew would not look cool on the shirt I was making.  I felt the rearing lion one would look really good.   So I secretly bought this one as well, and slipped them both in the pocket of the shirt when I wrapped it for Sam to decide.  And then he chose the rearing lion too… so I put the rearing lion on and we still have the sailing ship for some other shirt down the track…  
This motif is from the same horoscope collection as Tim’s raging bull; similarly Sam is no more a Leo than Tim is a Taurus… but look at us, defying the system…
I’m a Libra, but I’ve always felt a bit gypped at the mundanity of being represented by an inanimate object; a pair of scales, for heavens’ sake.  The other signs get all this cool stuff like bulls, scorpions, entwining fish and other interesting and/or virile animals, or cool centaurs, beautiful girls, water bearing maidens… the stuff of myth and legend; romantic fables of old.  Scales.  I ask you…  What’s more, I’ve just looked up Libra and,  well thank you Wikipedia, found it described as “fairly faint, with no first magnitude stars”.  Just couldn’t sound more lame…  as if we weren’t struggling with the whole stigma of a kitchen-device-as-our-mascot already…
Excuse my rambling, hehe.  I’m going to go and chill out with some fabric now.

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2010 in quick review

I should have done this yesterday, but hey, better late than never…
Last night I sat back and had a quick nostalgic roll-through of the blog and  came to the happy conclusion 2010 was a very good year for me;  a sprinkling of sad days, yes it’s true, but many happy and fun days, joyous moments with new friends and old friends, and lots of sewing and replenishing of the old wardrobe…
I’ve picked out my personal favourite photos and outfits; just one highlight from each month.  For some months I had several favourites and it was hard to narrow down, while for other drier months I was struggling to find even one good one…! (cough, June, cough!)  That’s life, no?  
Well, I hope you enjoy this little snapshot of my year in fashion, and I am looking forward to another year of sartorial experimentation and lots of creativity…  please join me!
Happy New Year!!

January
I joined Wardrobe Refashion and got more serious about re-using old and preloved textiles (first posted here)

February
Started to venture out more with my camera (though still to this day prefer solitude!)… here

March
Hanging out at Dunsborough, here

April
Did the Cape to Cape walk with Craig here  (134.5 km trekking and carrying everything we needed for 6 days!)

May
We attended the Amanda Young Foundation Ball here (and I documented the making of this dress during April)

June
Winter-y layers… here

July
got in early with the making of the season’s cocktail dress here.  I’ve worn this at least a dozen times over the last season

August
a blustery day with my trench, my favourite skirt (still) and my new cowl knit here

September
a whole month of documenting my daily handmade outfits, this was my favourite day hanging out in the Melbourne Botanical Gardens here

October
Not the first bathers I’ve made myself, but I reckon an improvement on my previous efforts… here

November
Still walking m’dog every day… here

and finally, December… and the Christmas dress here

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Cassie’s dress

This is the dress I made our daughter for her Christmas present this year.  I know her tastes very well and could picture exactly the dress I wanted to make for her, but was quite anxious about how to go about it.  Cassie is the most difficult one in the family for me to sew surprises for, for the following reasons:

1. In order for her to like it, it had to fit her perfectly; neither tight or clingy, or worse, saggy and baggy.
2. I wanted it to be a length that made both of us happy.  Once upon a time, not too long ago, if you had drawn up as a simple Venn diagram of preferred dress/skirt lengths for Cassie, comprising two sets representing mine and Cassie’s preferences; the intersection of the two sets would have been quite a tiny one.  Luckily she has grown up some and is aware that while barely bum-skimming skirts might be greatly appreciated by guys when a girl bends over to pick something up, that sight of publicly exposed knickers is often a moment of horrified self-awareness for that same girl’s friends.  “OMG, don’t tell me I’ve ever looked like that?!!
3. She loves sewing herself, so is always super aware of what I am currently sewing.  She also loves to go through the fabric stash, looking for something suitable for herself, and often wants to come with me if I go fabric shopping.  This makes embarking on a secretive project an extreme challenge.

So, how to make her a secret Christmas dress, that fitted perfectly, and of a length that she would be happy with?
Well of course, it couldn’t really be much of a secret in the end.  But she has a sense of humour and we managed a compromise… she stood in the laundry with her eyes shut while I did the fitting.  Again with her eyes shut, a mutually satisfying length was decided on.  The surprise for her was just the final look.
The stretch lace I used for this very simple Tshirt dress is of course see-through on its own, so I lined the dress completely with a soft silky like jersey matched in colour to the dress.  The sleeves are unlined.  I positioned the body and sleeve pieces on the length of fabric so the natural edging edges the sleeves and lower hem.  The seams are all overlocked to finish on the inside.  I didn’t finish the lower edge of the lining because it is that wonderful type of jersey that never frays. 
I think she looks just beautiful in it.
And she loves it too, so I couldn’t ask for a more happy result!

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A boxy little jacket; a refashion

I’m so pleased with this latest refashion that I finished just yesterday, that I just had wear it even though it’s really too hot for this time of year…
I took an old pair of too big, light cotton twill pants that my mother didn’t want anymore, and made for myself this loose unstructured jacket that I am now totally in love with…
I realise it may not be everyone’s cup of tea and I’m not sure Craig is very keen on it, but meh…  I really like it!
I first got the idea after seeing some of the Desigual designs, using old jeans upside down as the bodice of dresses, see below from Desigual.  I know, I know, mine doesn’t look much like this, but I’m just trying to illustrate where my original inspiration for this idea came from…

This is the pair of pants as they were originally…
I cut along the inside leg seams, not the whole way down the legs but just in the crotch area, and put it upside down to be used as the bodice of my new jacket; with the cut-open old leg/crotch seam as the new neckline.  The excess leg tubes were cut off to be used later as sleeves.   I sewed the jeans legs together for my shoulder seam…
Cut away some of the side seam for an armhole edge.  This was my first armhole cut, which is why the armhole looks a bit too small; it took some trial and measuring to get that armhole length perfectly fitted to the sleeve circumference (“sleeves” being the old lower legs above I just cut off)…  In trialling something experimental like this I’m a big believer in cutting away not-enough and then having to take away a little more, rather than cutting too much to start with and then regretting it…  (Horrible sentence, but I’m sure you seamstresses know what I’m talking about there)
I used one of these armhole cutouts to cut a triangle to fit in the V of the back, and sewed it in, mimicking the double topstitching featured elsewhere on the jeans…  Oh, I did have to unpick the curve of that back centre seam some and re-sew it to be straighter before this step…. again mimicking the double topstitching for continuity.  The top of this back neck edge was finished on the inside with a short strip of bias binding for stability.  As for the back; the curved part of the front crotch seam was unpicked a little bit and resewn to be a straighter seam, and then the V of the front neckline was folded in and finished also with double topstitching.
Set in the sleeves.  The sleeve hems are just the old jeans hems and were left intact for ease of finishing.
I topstitched closed the edges of those slanted front pockets, and removed the back pockets (now upside down) from the back of the jeans and repositioned them right way up onto the front of the new jacket.  See, the waistband of the jeans is still the waistband of the new jacket, and that fly can still be unbuttoned and unzipped for ease of taking on and off; just that it’s upside down now…
Et voila!
Details:
Jacket; my own design, refashioned from an old pair of light cotton twill pants
Skirt; my own design, based on the shape of Vogue 7303, black lace and black lace strips
Tshirt; Tbox
Thongs; Mountain Designs
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Tim’s shirt

This is a shirt I made for our eldest son for a Christmas present.  I didn’t need to be secret working on this one, as he was working up in Kalgoorlie up until only a few days before Christmas.
I’m glad he got a job where he is earning some good money but I did really miss him…  oh dear, empty nest syndrome coming on already?  sad…  🙁  
Anyway, we are making the most of him being home now.  And he has probably at least another year of Uni at home.
This fabric was a bit of a *&%# to work with.  Excuse my French.  I’ve had it for about a year, toyed with various projects in my mind, possibly a shirt for Craig, draping it over Bessie to get inspired for something for me etc. and finally came to terms with the fact Tim was the best one in the house to carry off this “deconstructed businessman” fabric.  The fabric is heat set into random crazy creases, and is slightly stretchy, thus the %$#@ factor, have you ever tried fine precision tailoring with stretchy or pre-creased fabric??  And I like for mens’ shirts to be well tailored… well, I just had to accept the quirks of this fabric and go with it as best I could.  I think I wrestled it into some sort of submission with minimal meltdown on my own behalf.   Anyhow I’m very happy with how it finally turned out.  And most importantly Tim likes it too.  He wore it on Christmas Day, and has worn it out to two other parties with his friends since, so must do!
The pattern is Burda 7767 again, this time made up pretty much as is but with narrower sleeve cuffs, the addition of two breast pockets with asymmetrical flaps, a long curved hem and the use of navy blue snaps in lieu of buttons.
I also added this iron-on “raging bull” motif.  Hehe, this is kind of funny because there is no one less like a raging bull than Tim…  It is actually one of a series of horoscope signs, and Tim is not even a Taurus, but meh…  I liked the colours of this motif against the colours of the shirt, and I thought it needed a little extra something to make it less formal and wicked enough for a young bloke.

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, pattern review here, cotton with probably a spot of spandex for stretch?

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Lichen shot-cotton shirt

This is a shirt I made for Craig for his Christmas present, cut out and made up in lots of super secret cloak-and-dagger sewing sessions… although he did help choose the fabric a year ago, so perhaps he might have had some inkling…
But he was nice enough to act satisfyingly surprised and delighted when he opened his present.
The fabric is Kaffe Fasset shot cotton, bought online from purlsoho.com, only the second time I’ve bought fabric in this way.  Usually I prefer to feel the fabric myself with my own two hands to weigh up its suitability to the project I have in mind before purchasing.  Actually “prefer” is too soft a word; I consider this a non-negotiable essential rule for buying fabric…  But I’m familiar with Kaffe Fasset cotton, having come across it before in a local shop (Calico and Ivy), so I knew it would be a good choice for lightweight summer mens’ shirts.
This fabric is a dream to work with, and as the word “shot” implies, has a bright cobalt blue warp combined with an intense acidic yellow weft, to give the fabric this deceptively subdued mossy green hue.  I chose thread exactly matched to the yellow of the weft, for all the topstitching.
Same old same old Burda 7767 again, with his custom fitting modifications, plus two breast pockets with shaped flaps and a longer curved hem.  Well, with the shorter sleeves as well obviously, and also I added a little decorative button detail to the sleeve hems for fun.

Very easy; here is a quick how-to…
Before sewing the sleeve and side seams, measure the desired length of sleeve from the top of the sleeve cap and mark with a pin

Turn back the seam allowance, right sides together and mark centre point.  Also mark with pins points 1cm each side of centre point, and 1cm into the seam allowance, creating a little right-angled triangle on the sleeve edge.
Sew along the two short sides of this little triangle, trim and clip into the corners.
Turn the seam allowance to the inside of the sleeve, wrong sides together and press.
Now sew the sleeve and side seams as usual…
and turn up, press and sew the sleeve hem allowance as normal.  I topstitched along the hem edge to help hold those little peaks in place.
And finally, sewed some smaller (4mm) buttons on the peaks.  A side note; it took me ages to find the two different sized but matching buttons for this shirt…  got these from Fabulous Fabrics.  I used these smaller buttons for the collar button-down too.  (Is there a correct term for that?)
Cute, no?  I think this would look even cuter with an acute angle… haha.  
See, I made a little joke.  
Hmmm.
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