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Trench Skirt; a pattern review

07/10/2010 6:38 am \ 15 Comments \

This is my pattern review, and some close-ups of the trench skirt I completed recently; seen below and a larger view here.
The skirt is pattern 107, from BurdaStyle magazine 8/2009.

Pattern Description:
Knee-length flared skirt that fits smoothly over hips and waist, creating a slim line.  The horn buttons and buckle, welt pockets, self-fabric belt with large carriers, and the double button rows are reminiscent of trenchcoat styling.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42, I cut a 36
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern?
I love this pattern, and its trench styling.  Love the way it looks like I had taken a trench coat and just chopped the top off…  Because of this styling I think the top ends up a little bunched around the waist, which is just how a trench coat is supposed to look when it is belted, but I’m not sure whether the slight bulkiness that this adds to the hip area is flattering (or not!).  Despite the pattern description; in my opinion this skirt does not create a slim-line, in fact I think the sizing runs a touch big.  But I love this skirt and am definitely going to be in it a lot.
Fabric used:
Sturdy cotton drill
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I made the pockets a bit deeper and wider as the pocket pattern piece looked laughably small (I guess I have big hands!).  I finished the raw edges on the inside with Hong Kong seaming.  The front skirt facing fell short of facing behind all the buttons/buttonholes so I used scraps to sew behind and stabilise the buttons and buttonholes which the facing did not back.
The pattern came with a belt piece, which I did sew up, but actually I prefer to use with this skirt a leather belt I already had; looks more professional.  In my experience self-fabric belts, no matter how sturdily interfaced, do not look so wonderful after half an hour of wear, or even less…
Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
I might sew this again.  It is a very handsome skirt with nice details, right on trend for the military look and the current fashion for trench coats.
Conclusion:
Love it!

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Me and the best friend

06/10/2010 4:21 am \ 7 Comments \

Nice to be back here with my big furry best friend again …
On our last lovely balmy evening in Melbourne we met friends for dinner down by the Yarra River and chinwagged into the late late hours.  Our friends had been reading the latest Stephen Hawking book The Grand Design, explaining further the theory of relativity and quantum mechanics, and posing discussions such as “why is there something rather than nothing?” and “why do we exist?” and other esoteric fare…
I decided to keep quiet about the fact that my current reading material is the Sookie Stackhouse Chronicles, a decidedly more lowbrow offering…  This is a sometimes camp series about a Louisiana waitress who is a psychic and is also dating a vampire; lol!  Yeah, I do read worthy books (really!), but also I like to escape now and then into black humour and small-town soapie-style fun too…  life is too short to stick exclusively with serious.
Y’all agreed?  Darn tootin’…

Details:
Skirt; partly my own design, based upon Vogue 7303, layered white stretch lace, see full length here
Tshirt; Country Road
Cardigan; my husband’s old jumper, refashioned, see here
Necklace; made by me, tutorial here
Sandals; Vicenza, from Soletta shoes
Nail varnish; Santorini Sunset, NP

 

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Details…

05/10/2010 1:02 am \ 16 Comments \

Some details of the skirt and top from the previous post; top “a” and skirt “m” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, (hmmm, yes, the title is a bit of a mouthful…) by Natsuko Hiraiwa.
The skirt is a big rectangle with the lower hem shaped in a slight curve…

The dress zip is inserted in the top edge of the skirt, perpendicular to the body… I added a skirt hook and eye closure at the top.

The fabric is a lovely crinkly linen/cotton mix, with both salmon pink and grey in its colouration.  The skirt is lined completely with soft taupe muslin.  The lining and skirt are attached together at the top seam, and hang separately down on the inside of the skirt, and I hand-stitched the side slits together on the inside of the skirt… why?  Because I can’t bear for a skirt lining to slip in and out of view through the slit in a slit-sided skirt, I reckon it looks real sloppy when you see it happen.

The top has two long sashes inserted in the shoulder seams; these can be worn either both hanging down in front (as seen in the previous post below), with both draped around the opposite shoulder:

or with one hanging down in front and one draped over the opposite shoulder as in the top picture; my preferred way.  Or you could tie them loosely in front, like a sailor-inspired look, will have to try this one out next time!
Got loads of washing and house-sorting-out to do after our lovely sojourn away, so…. later, dudes!

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Yes, Japanese

03/10/2010 8:33 am \ 12 Comments \

My newest ensemble, my first two projects from the Japanese pattern book, Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa.  This is top “a” and skirt “m”.  I apologise for the poor quality of the photos here, even though I am blessed with a helpful photographer, the most wonderful location thanks to the Royal Botanic Gardens in Melbourne, and the soft light filtered down flatteringly and greenly through lofty overhead leafy boughs bathing all in an pretty fairytale glow, my poor travel camera is on its last legs and is cursing me with grainy cruddy pictures, so my apologies.  To make matters worse the battery is very dodgy, meaning I currently do not have enough juice to take any detailed photos of the latest creations, these will have to wait until I am back in Perth…
The top is made out of white swiss voile and has two long sashes attached in the shoulder seams, which can be worn long and hanging down either front or back as pictured below, or with one flipped nonchalantly and in a cool sophisticated arty way over one shoulder, which may be made out in the above picture.  I like it the latter way…  The top buttons closed down the left side seam, and for this I used four buttons of blue-y grey/green nacre.
The skirt is of some crinkly fabric; a cotton/linen mix in a smudgy slightly greyed shade of apricot, bought from Tessuti fabrics on my last trip to Melbourne about eighteen months ago.  As it was a little sheer I lined it completely with a soft taupe coloured, thin cotton muslin.
All the side seams for the top and the skirt are finished with French seaming, and the corners on the top sashes finished with mitred edges.
Oh, and thankyou so much to Donna, who gave me a Kreative Blogger award!  As I have already received this previously I won’t fulfill the award requirements again (if you wish to have a read of the ten things about me for the award then you can click on that link in my sidebar), but it was so sweet of Donna to give this to me, and I am honoured and flattered that she thought of me, thankyou!

Details:
Top; “a”, from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white swiss voile cotton
Skirt; “m”, from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, grey/apricot linen/cotton
Thongs (flipflops); Mountain Designs

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The lady had purple hair

02/10/2010 10:06 am \ 18 Comments \

About my photos; I’ve been asked who takes the pictures I put in my blog; well 99% of the time the photos are taken by me with a self-timer.  However for today my photo is taken by my lovely husband.  We have been here in Melbourne for him to attend a medical conference, now that is finished and we have two lovely days further to enjoy each other’s company here in this exciting city.
Thankyou so much to purple who left a comment yesterday regarding the Alannah Hill fabric outlet; you can be sure we traipsed out there today!!  (Later edit: 188 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy) And if it hadn’t been for my husband, well I’m quite the procrastinator, humming and haa-ing over whether I really need this or that particular thing; my husband always just says “You may as well get it since we’ve come all the way here”… what a wonderful husband.  He really is a great enabler, the perfect shopping companion.  So I bought more fabric!  And I just had to take a photo of the bundles, see below.  Funny!  This is just how it was handed to me.  I was served by a delightful young man, maybe in his early twenties or some such who obviously had no experience at fabric cutting, well, laugh!  He hacked away at the silk charmeuses, laces and sequinned silk chiffons in great jagged sweeps of the scissors while I was torn between giggling or gasping in horror at this very rough treatment of all the delicates, but he was such a sweet guy and all the while chatting and joking away in a very charming manner…  Then he just rolled it all randomly up, wrapped around a bit of paper and dabbed on a few sticky labels haphazardly in a vain attempt to hold it all together.  Such finesse in the wrapping here, lol!  Looks like fish n’ chips, or at least a bundle of old rubbish, no?  And the little plastic bag; yes, that is 2.5m of the finest silk charmeuse, rolled up and bundled any-old-how and stuffed in to a sandwich bag!  A sandwich bag!!  This was achieved much the same way one might stuff a cushion… hilarious!
The skirt I’m wearing today is a new-ie for summer, made using a pattern from a Burdastyle magazine issue 8/2009 (I think).  I’ll have to check for sure when I get home… it’s called a trench skirt.  Like the photo in the magazine, I wanted for the final effect to be like as if I had bought a trench coat and just chopped the bottom off to get a skirt.. well this is the effect I think, but now I would like the skirt to be a bit more streamlined around the waist and not so “bunch-y”.  I think I’m hippy enough without this “paper-bag waist”, I reckon this gathered excess of fabric at the waist just emphasises the lower half;  so I will be doing some slight alterations on this one when I get home…

Details:
Skirt; Burdastyle 8/09 trench skirt, khaki cotton
Tshirt; Country Road
Cardigan and tights; Metalicus
Booties; Django and Juliette, from Zomp shoes
Bag; Gucci

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Fabric and wool shopping, Melbourne

01/10/2010 2:28 pm \ 6 Comments \

Having a blast in Melbourne, thus the lateness of the post.  Fabric-wise, twas another extremely successful day.  So I thought it would be helpful to give for you today a list of highlights in my explorations here…

The first shop I visited yesterday was:
Cleggs,
60 Elizabeth Street, Melbourne
ph (03) 9654 7677
Verdict; small but varied range of all sorts of good; little bit of knitting yarns, little bit of embroidery and craft supplies, little bit of fabrics.  The range of laces and lace borders was fabulous and had me hooning across the store as soon as I spotted the discreetly placed shelf of lacy treasures…!  After much awed contemplation I bought a series of black lace borders to make a layered camisole…  Also medium to good range of lace and sequinned fabrics on the bolt, some reasonably priced

Tessuti Fabrics
141 Flinders Lane, Melbourne
The verdict; not cheap, but a very good range of very yummy fabrics.  Couldn’t decide what to get.  Everywhere I looked new possibilities called their siren call out to me.  I seriously spent a couple of very indecisive hours in here.  Eventually bought a selection of muddy coloured summer weight fabrics for summer dresses but may have to visit again before I go back home…  This place is well worth it.

Morris and sons
level 1, 234 Collins Street, Melbourne
ph (03) 9654 0888
Biggest range of knitting wool I’ve seen, like ever.  Bought four colours of sock wool,  muddy autumn-y solid colours as I crave these in my sock collection.

RetroStar Vintage Clothing Company
upstairs in the Cathedral Arcade, 37 Swanston Street, Melbourne
a collection of amazing and incredible secondhand clothes, lots of which are worthy of museum status.  Nowhere else have I seen all in one place Texan cowboy boots, American college jackets, cheerleader jackets, an immense collection of band Tshirts, plaid flannel shirts, menswear including Lacoste sportswear, cashmere jumpers and cardigans, shirts galore, jackets, army disposal gear, womenswear from years and years back that will have you gasping in amazement at each new discovery; this place has to be seen to be believed.  The decor alone is unique and real entertaining.  Warning; not cheap though…

and today discovered The Fabric Store
184 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy (still within walking distance of central Melbourne)
ph 9416 4455
Verdict; a huge range of really good fabrics, all in a reasonable price range.  Lots of end-of-bolts from designer ranges.  This is well worth making the trip out to see it, it is within walking distance of central Melbourne but if you buy up big like I did you may find the walk back somewhat burdensome… just saying.  Hard to leave this store without spending up some.  As with Tessuti’s, indecisiveness also plagued me bigtime here (so much choice!! man…), but I had an appointment with the next very important stop so bought lots of fabrics as I don’t want to trudge back out there again.  Oh, another plus point, the girls are very generous cutters.

Koko Black
Royal Arcade, Melbourne
No visit to Melbourne is complete without a visit to this cafe.  I can’t remember the occasion I first discovered this little gem, but since it entered my radar I will go here once a day when in Melbourne.  Sometimes twice a day.  The Belgian hot chocolate is to die for.  Seriously.  This is divine stuff.  One cup of this nectar of the gods and you will commence a lifelong love affair…  Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Later edit: Alannah Hill fabric outlet, 188 Brunswick Street, Fitzroy, is right next door to the Fabric Store.  Well worth a visit too!  Hint; bolts and bolts and bolts of Alannah Hill fabric are upstairs 🙂

My outfit today wasn’t very exciting, so I have no wish to bore you with a photo, but this will give you a chuckle…  for wealthy parents who have furnished their own wardrobes to bursting point with ultra-expensive designer gear and need another spending outlet: (now we’ve seen everything…)

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Curiouser and curiouser…

30/09/2010 8:50 am \ 18 Comments \

Hi, the last day of Self-Stitched September; and I’m coming to you live from sunny Melbourne!  Haha.  That’s an in-joke amongst Australians, as Melbourne is … er, not very sunny.  The weather here is notoriously fickle.  The sky today is white white white…  But dearth-of-sunshine notwithstanding, I still adore Melbourne.  This is the shopping capital of Australia, and I’ve already laid down the plastic in two fabric stores and a wool store, and also visited what must be the most kitsch-ily fabulous (but kinda pricey) second-hand shop in the whole of Australia, the RetroStar Vintage Clothing Company, and therein bought a pre-loved maroon velveteen jacket and a beaten-up (in a good way) pair of shiny black men’s brogues.. hola!!  It’s been a very successful day.

And as if the haul wasn’t enough, I spent the morning in the Royal Botanic Gardens and was totally spoilt for choice when it came to stunning locations.  And the soft grey light that this city is famous for (thanks to the cloud cover) makes for dreamy photography.  Win!
Today I feel a bit Alice-in-Wonderland-ish, wandering through the beautiful other-worldly treescape of the gardens in this floral floaty dress with black tights and booties (for warmth, I did say Melbourne is dismal, today is 18C or 66F, freezing by current Perth standards)  It reminds me of the illustrations in my old copy of the book, by Arthur Rackham, and which shaped my childhood imagination of the dreamworld that Alice visited.  My mother once said this dress was one of her favourites (thankyou Mum)  It is based loosely upon Vogue 7748, a basic wrap dress pattern, but with a two layered frills around the neckline, a deep frill around the lower edge, back waist ties and sleeve ties added.
Details:
Dress; partly my own design, based upon Vogue 7748, printed polyester chiffon, with petticoat (not seen) my own design, pink jersey knit, seen first here
Tights; Kolotex
Booties; Django and Juliette, from Zomp shoes
Illustration below by Arthur Rackham, from Alice In Wonderland, published 1907

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Gardening gracefully

29/09/2010 3:33 am \ 5 Comments \

Today I am wearing a little sundress I made a few years ago, with the intention of it being a beach dress to pop on over bathers.  As it turned out kind of fancy and pretty I’ve ended up wearing it on loads of different occasions…  I used the halter bodice from McCalls 4453 which is a top pattern, and altered the design to have a side zip opening.  I drafted a skirt that is a sort of faux wrap around design.  Long at the back and with two tapered fronts lapped over each other and both secured in the side seams.  The dress is fully lined with pale pink lining.  I like the softly pretty luminous effect this has under the sheer red swirly pattern of the fashion fabric, which actually has sparkles.  Bonus!  
And the little lace cover-up has been another pretty as well as useful little thing that is my own design and was whipped up on a whim.  
Today I felt the need to be a bit … colourful and quietly cheerful.  After all life has to be appreciated and celebrated and lived.  With spring springing all around us and new growth bursting relentlessly forward in the garden one cannot push away the quiet and inevitable mechanism of new life.

Details:
Dress; partly McCalls 453, partly my own design, pink/red sparkly polyester chiffon
Top; my own design, cut-out embroidered linen
Sandals; Pedro Miralles, from Soletta shoes

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