Mum and I went shopping together on my birthday; her for my birthday present, and me for her birthday present! yes, our birthdays are just a few days apart so this is a bit of a tradition. We went to Fabulous Fabrics. Haha… well how unexpected! *wink*
After much lengthy and highly enjoyable hunting, comparisons and consultations with each other, Mum chose this really beautiful fabric for me. it is thick but very light and airy, has a nubbly, ultra slubby texture and is as pure white as the driven snow. I absolutely adore it, in fact I’d been salivating over it whenever I saw it, ever since it came in. Getting a little bit to give me is extra thoughtful of Mum when you take into account that she doesn’t think white really suits me at all. I kind of agree with her up to a point… however! I still totally adore it, because I’m a dreadfully contrary soul… no not really, I just have this thing for white clothing, particularly for summer, I love it with a fierce and burning passion…even a white-hot passion! Mum knows I do, so I thought it pretty sweet that she overrode her feelings to give me something I really love.
Pattern is the Named patterns Inari tee dress. This is my “real” Inari, for which I ran up my previously blogged red striped “muslin”! though of course they are both wearable since I found I needed to make only minor changes to the pattern for it to be perfect.
Something I mentioned in my red-striped inari post, the dress made as per the pattern rides up a bit when you lift your arms, so for this version I made the following simple modification to the sleeves to help reduce the problem:
What I’m doing here is adding width to and reducing the height of the sleeve cap slightly, and doing so without altering the armscye. Diddling about with both the sleeve and the armscye is possible if you really know what you’re doing #idonot; however can be quite complicated and so I tend to not go there… I would prefer to substitute an entirely different, tried-and-true sleeve cap and armscye from another pattern if it came to that!!
from L to R, top to bottom:
1) Trace the sleeve, and draw a line from the shoulder seam junction mark near the apex of the sleeve cap down to the lower edge, parallel to the grain line.
2) Cut from the lower edge up, leaving a scant few mm at the upper edge still attached. Pivot the two halves open; I allowed a gap of 4cm (2″) in width, although you could stand to go a little wider, if desired.
3) Tape a piece of paper to fill and fix the gap
4) redraw that lower hem to curve smoothly in a similar line to how the sleeve was previously, and trim
5) Original sleeve and new sleeve, juxtaposed. You can see how the sleeve is wider; and not seen, but the height of the sleeve cap has been reduced by 2.5cm (1″).
6) Very important!!! remember to measure the length of the new lower edge and cut the sleeve cuffs accordingly! They’ll be a bit longer than the sum of the original width and the width of the gap created in step 2.
Demonstration of results (below); The dress does still ride up a little bit however not nearly as much as previously, at right. To lessen the ride-up even more, you could go even further with widening the sleeve and “flattening” the curve of the sleeve cap even more. Or alternatively of course, you could always substitute an armscye and sleeve cap from another pattern, at a pinch!
I’m pretty happy with this though 🙂
Finishing details:
I still didn’t use the neckline facing, but turned in the seam allowance and finished with a piece of bias-cut white linen. Similarly at the lower hemline, the raw edge inside is bound with bias-cut white linen and then handstitched, this looks nice if anyone happens to catch a glimpse of that back hem inside.. which lets face it, is quite possible because of that low-hanging back edge, and also eliminates the bulk that you’d get if you turned the fabric under twice.
Bonus picture, photobombing daughter…
Fun fact, she made the dress she is wearing here; it is a cute and interesting tank dress with tucking up one side and side split detail on the other, made in blue marl jersey that she bought in Japan. She’s wearing it over the skirt that I made for her, here. Honestly, she makes the most lovely things, but doesn’t really share them on any social media. Occasionally I persuade her to pose in something she’s made, like the time she made this really divinely beautiful ivory cut-out lace top…
Gorgeous, isn’t it?
Details:
Dress; Inari tee dress by Named patterns, white slubby cotton mix
Shoes; designed and made by me, details here
Sandals in top picture;designed and made by me here. this picture taken on Cable Beach during our recent holiday
and hmmmm, I’m sorry that I’m closing with my dress here… bit of an anticlimax after Cassie’s top!!
I hate to disagree with your Mum, but I think you look fab in white.
Good job, well done.
aw thank you! I reckon everyone looks good in white, also I just love it so much so I’d wear it anyway 🙂
Another perfect dress for summer and white can be tricky but it always looks good for this time of year.
thank you Sharon! I love white at any time of year actually! but it’s particularly fresh in the summer 🙂
The white looks great! But then I always love a white dress. The textured fabric is lovely.
You clever thing coming up with a solution to the dress riding up! I too love the white x
Nothing feels more like summer than a white dress. This looks lovely and suits you to a tee. Thanks for sharing your pattern modifications.
the daugter is like mother !!! you are a sewing artists familly !
thank you Liochka! xx
totally cute dress! I enjoyed reading about your shopping with your Mom. So sweet. I cherish similar adventures with my daughter.
and your girl continues to be so pretty!
your work on the sleeve made such a difference! The white is beautiful and you wear it well. And yes, that lace top is divine. How lovely it must be to have other makers in the house!
Perfect! I wasn’t as clever as you and did sub in an alternative sleeve and armscye completely! 😉
Thanks for the information on how to alter the sleeve. That is very useful.
Your white dress looks lovely. Its winter where I am! Today was the coldest so far with a proper frost. I am looking at making winter coats right now so your summer dress makes me very envious. Still summer will come back……….eventually!
Thank you for the tutorial on how to fix the sleeve. When I make this, I will plan on doing that from the start, especially since sleeves sometimes are an issue for me on fitting. I really do like the white and how wonderful that you were able to go shopping with your mom for your birthdays.
I’m with you on white clothes in summer – I love them as well. This is great – you are really tempting me to try that pattern. both versions are fab. and Cassie’s lace top is gorgeous
Lovely texture in the fabric, and the shape is timeless! 🙂
Such a lovely dress and thanks for the tutorial on adjusting the sleeve. I have determined to make another one and have a go at making the redesigned sleeve.
What a wonderful summery Inari dress! I so understand your love to white summer clothing! And I think persons who should wear muted tones like me are allowed to wear white shirts and dresses, too 😉 So nice of your mother to give you such a gift! (You know, one of our daughters is born shortly after my birthday, too!) Cassie makes the most beautiful things! So mother, so daughter!
I resolved the Inari’s riding problem by shortening the bodice at the level of the arm scyce and the sleeve cap which worked because I am not so tall.
Another beautiful Inari – your red and white striped one sent me scurrying off to get that pattern on the spot! I’ve not tried any Named patterns yet so I’m excited to work with them. Looking at this white one on you I’m glad I already did order it because this one just confirmed I made the absolutely right decision 🙂 Gorgeous fabric Caroline! Such a perfect birthday present (Happy Birthday to you and your mum!) – I couldn’t imagine a better way to celebrate my birthday – in fact mine is coming up this month and I think I’ll just recommend exactly that to my husband 🙂
thank you so much Kathleen! Yes, if you’ve sewing then there’s nothing better than being given some fabric for a pressie 🙂
It’s a gorgeous dress and a very neat solution to a problem I’ve been pondering for a little while. Thank you for sharing.
thank you Tracy 🙂
This is an excellent summery dress Carolyn, such gorgeous texture in that linen, I’m almost tempted to purchase the pattern! Just wondering, had you considered a gusset in the underarm area? Do you think that might work too? Frankly though, with legs like those, whats the problem luv??!
a gusset would work pretty well too, thanks Lesley! and also for the compliment on the ol’ pegs! 🙂
I’ve been having that sort of sleeve problem for a bit, without knowing what to do. Thanks for the solution. I’ll give it a try. It does seem that sleeves are getting narrower. I’m always having to check sleeves below the bicep. Now I’ll start looking above.
thanks Nancy! Yes, this sleeve widening method would be good for giving more wearing ease to the biceps too without the complication of altering the armhole, 🙂
Another beautiful dress. I like the simplicity of it, that it looks so clean. Your sewing is so super neat! Thanks for sharing the tutorial and congratulations to Cassie on that beautiful top!
This is such a perfect summer dress!! I love the texture of your white fabric too. Thanks for the tutorial for altering the sleeve, I didn’t find it much of a problem in my Inari but it’s a very handy picture tutorial to have for other patterns too. Cassie’s top is absolutely gorgeous – sewing talent obviously runs in the family!
This looks to be the perfect casual summer dress! Your “fix” is brilliant.
Cassie’s lace top is absolutely gorgeous!
I’ve long thought that you wear white really well! Lovely fabric, and that dress looks super comfy for summer.
That is a stunning photo at the beach!
thank you Ann! 🙂
You will wear this over and over again all Summer and think of your Mom every time! Such a wonderful gift! And I hate to disagree with your mother too….. but think white suits you well. Your beautiful daughter makes the loveliest of things and it must be such fun to share the same creative spirits. Well, really, I guess it is really 3 generations counting your mother too! Sweet! 🙂
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Thanks Carolyn for a solution to the riding up problem. I made a top and a dress from this pattern and only realised that this happened after wearing. I do like the overall shape so will attempt again now that I have this knowledge. Feel a bit peeved though that the pattern makers didn’t sort this out as I wasted two lovely pieces of silk.
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Hi there! Late to the Inari party, but considering it for summer wovens and knits. That sleeve – do you think adding more curve to the armscye would help the issue (in addition to widening the sleeve)? thanks! I’m enjoying looking back at your makes for ideas for the season. Coco
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You added pockets to your Inari! They look fab and super practical!
I adore your Inaris! Do you happen to have a tutorial you’d recommend for the bias binding of the hem? I am reasonably certain I could muster, but having it spelled out would really be appreciated.
thank you Erin! yes I’ve written a tutorial for the process here on my blog: finishing an edge with bias binding