Oh, hey, I made a dress! and not just any old dress but this the final thing in my little mini make-nine challenge which of course was actually make-twelve! So happy I managed to squeak it in for the end of the year! Phew!
This is sorta based on the Named Inari tee dress pattern, and the fabric is a heavy clotted cream coloured, broderie anglaise cotton that I bought in Mood when I visited New York with Yoshimi on our holiday there last year. GORGEOUS fabric. I feel like I’m wearing a wedding cake, in a good way!
I’m so thrilled with how my dress turned out… in the end! It has a few features that I shall now proceed to explain…
a. the shoulders have a sort of raglan effect, but still with the set in sleeves. There is a reason for this that I shall delve into further, later… ahem…
b. I utilised the broderie edging as much as possible, in the sleeve edges, the hem edge at the bottom, and to form the upper edge of the patch pockets. Love how this turned out!
c. To get the best effect of the broderie “stripes” I did not make the inari with its traditional stepped hem . ie. longer at the back and shorter at the front; because I wanted the broderie edge to finish the entire hem, and also wanted the broderie pattern to match along those side(-ish) seams.
Btw, to digress for a bit… when it comes to pattern/stripe matching, I admit to being a fiend for this in the past, however lately I’ve felt a little ambivalent towards the rabid mania for extreme pattern matching that seems de rigeur for the sewing world. Sure, there are definitely times when strict pattern matching is necessary, but I’m starting to crave the artistic possibilities that come with a less rigid approach. For example, when a patch pocket is so excellently pattern matched that you can’t even see it’s there. WHY?! Sometimes I just find myself wishing for something a bit more exciting.
That’s not relevant to this, my latest thing though, because I decided a good pattern match was indeed essential to the dress looking good, so I went there. There is no pocket matching whatsoever with the pockets and I like this look a lot.
Now to be real here; my initial “make 12” plan actually included a different pattern Vogue 8968, and I really did make this fabric up in that pattern too. And it looked … absolutely terrible. Behold the awfulness.
Yeah, it looks kind of ok on my dummy but on me it looked pretty bad, like a big broderie anglaise circus tent. No modelled pictures because twas only “finished” for a minute or so before I starting cutting it up anew to make this. To be honest, when I first did my make 12 plan I did not plan very thoroughly, and just chose 12 patterns and 12 fabrics with the thought I was just going to jam them together and make it work somehow, and unfortunately the last pattern and fabric were not a good match for each other after all. I absolutely love this beautiful fabric though, so I’m very happy to have “saved” it!
see that little patch of bias-cut cream muslin sitting behind my label? I had to put it there because without it you could see the red back of the label through this very lightweight fabric!
As it is, it’s absolutely essential to wear a slip with the dress. I’m wearing it here with my ivory slip dress, the pattern is the free Ruby pattern by the very generous Sheryll of pattern scissors cloth, available here…
Oh, so the change of pattern is kinda the explanation for the funny, half raglan, half set in sleeve look. True, Vogue 8968 doesn’t have raglan sleeve, haha; but bear with me. I decided a raglan sleeve would look better than the big cut on, non-sleeve of the pattern. Does it sound like I took a bit of a dislike to V8968? hmmm I think so, yes. Anyway, I changed it to a raglan sleeve. Then when cutting out the Inari, I ended up keeping the perfectly finished bias-bound neckline of the original dress along with the raglan seams, and still cut out the armholes for the Inari too. The Vogue dress was so big I was able to cut out my amended inari sleeves from the original sleeves too. I got the patch pockets from the extra hem length cut off the sides. So that was a bonus!
Of course, in peak 2020 style I made a little matching mask. We’re not yet wearing them over here in Western Australia because of zero community spread, but who knows what the future holds? I’m slowly building up a small collection of masks to have ready, just in case.
So that’s it for my little mini “make nine” challenge for this year! Yay, I did it!
The thing is that I say “mini” challenge but it turned out to actually be a bit of a bigger challenge for me than I thought, for some reason. I can’t quite put my finger on it, but I think it’s something to do with the fact that spontaneity and the whim of the moment are important motivators for me when it comes to making things. And when the spontaneity and whimsy are not there then I actually find it … well, not quite a “chore” but something quite close to that anyway. Terrible, huh. Truthfully though, in spite of making it sound like (back-hand to brow) oh how I struggled! … I did not, because I love sewing and I really love all the things I made during the challenge. However I don’t know if I will do a make nine again next year or not. Maybe I’ll think of a new challenge… hmmm….I’ll have to give it some serious thought, because I only have one day to decide!
Details:
Dress, sorta Inari tee dress pattern by Named patterns, cream cotton broderie anglaise from Mood fabrics in New York
Mask, from this tutorial
Shoes; ancient, from an op shop
is this thing even working?! *camera click*
I’ve made up the first of my indigenous fabrics that I bought back in … June? I think, and 
I bought the chocolate brown grosgrain ribbon from Spotlight. You can see here a patched bit in the brim lining… I didn’t do this because I didn’t have enough fabric, I have plenty! I actually have enough leftover for a little skirt sometime down the track too, but only if I was a bit devious with my cutting out here. I decided a small patch in the brim lining was a small sacrifice to pay to leave myself enough fabric for that future skirt!
First thing to get made was a shirt for Tim… He has a job now where he has to look smart, so I decided to make a business shirt… I bought the really lovely deep maroon, mini-scale gingham cotton shirting from Tessuti’s in Melbourne, and used Burda 6874, my kinda go-to shirt pattern since I semi-retired Burda 7767. d’you know 
For Kelly’s top, I’d chosen the asymmetrical cowl top from Pattern Magic 2; the shape of the cowl is dictated by the shape of the facing. It’s always a bit of a challenge to draft your own patterns, but well I love a challenge! and I knew the shape of this top would be super flattering for Kelly and suit her beautifully… I cut the pieces on the bias and inserted a maroon invisible zip in the left side seam, so it zips down undone… however Kelly says she can squeeze into it without having to undo the zip which is cool. I think the bias-cut is what gives it that little bit of stretch.
Next up! a pullover/sweatshirt for Craig! truth now… I was running out of time, and steam! and this fair near killed me!
With the bias binding facing up, and following the previous stitching as a stitching guide, topstitch the pressed edge of the bias binding down. Since you’re using the previous stitching as a guide, the width of your double-topstitching will be nice and even from the outside.
And, last but not least! I also made a few more little hardback notebooks… just fun little things, however I do know that the recipients do actually use notebooks regularly so I know they will be useful too! I used mostly a mixture of leftover and old papers; from old scrapbooks, some with the children’s scribbles still on them! I’m sentimental that way 😉 , various papers, musical paper, some pale coloured wrapping paper, writing stationery; just lots of different stuff.
Then I vaguely thought maybe a navy blue skirt would make it a nicely complete set, and she desperately needs skirts for work too … and lo and behold what should be lounging languidly about in the very next aisle but this teal blue suedette, which is a PERFECT colour match for the rooves. BAM! DECISION MADE. Lugged them both to the counter without a second thought, brought them home, tossed into the washing machine.
The suedette “looks” nice and perfectly suede-y, but it frays like billy-o. I finished all the raw edges on the overlocker, and the lower hem with a bias cut binding cut from a scrap of purple/blue micro fibre. 
The Tshirt is made up just like the pattern, except for the neckline… I’m lazy with my Inari necklines and have pretty much finished them all off like this! Just overlocked the raw edge, turned it under and topstitched from the right side. Since it’s quite a wide neckline and doesn’t stretch out when you put the Tshirt on and take it off, the stitches won’t snap and this kind of finish works perfectly well.
The lower hem is finished with my twin needle. Lisa asked about channelling with a twin needle.. all I can say is that I’ve never had channelling and what’s more I have no idea how I’ve avoided it so far either!! Only thing I can think of: I always finish the raw edge on my overlocker, then topstitch with the twin needle, and that’s it! Maybe the overlocked edge stabilises the fabric and that’s what stops a channel forming? That’s the only reason I can think of anyway. 🙂
7
Funny story; I made this nearly two months ago… and risked 
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