This is my new lingerie set, made in Wiltshire Liberty tana lawn, colour Cranberry. I bought the fabric from Tessuti’s in Melbourne whilst we were there last year, along with the Maker’s Journal Tried & True knickers pattern. This pattern is also available directly from the designer here.
The bra is a slightly modified version of KwikSew 3300; modified to take into account the fact that I’ve used a non stretchy woven fabric.
I’ve been dying to have a go making Liberty lingerie ever since I spotted the knickers pattern but have been nervous to adapt my bra pattern, at least until I had a bit more lingerie experience under my belt.
btw, readers might like to know that 60cm of Liberty lawn easily makes one 34A bra plus two pairs of size 10 knickers. And there are scraps aplenty left over to make adorable little pot pourri pouches and things like that, if like me, you are not the type to throw away even the smallest scraps of fabrics as precious as Liberty.
I’ver written a review of the pattern below… but all you need to know is that I absolutely love these knickers! They might look a bit bunchy and granny-like when pictured off-the-body, but seriously; these are the very definition of cute when they are on and particularly if you have chosen a fresh pretty print like this. And, surprisingly for un-stretchy undies; very very comfy.
This piccie below is not of me but is the model pictured on the pattern envelope. But naturally my derriere looks just like this too …
;D
They are super easy to make.
I did make a knickers muslin. Anyone who knows me will realise how slightly earth-shattering this is… but well. we are talking about Liberty here. Hello?? This stuff is expensive. Beautiful, but expensive! But hey, you’re worth it, right?
I made teeny adjustments to the pattern to fine-tune fit. I also re-drafted the front and the back to have a longer crotch from the front, and accordingly reduced the crotch length in the back. This allowed me to install a much more substantial panty liner. That’s just a personal preference not necessarily a critique of the pattern.
Above: at left; the amended pattern with altered crotch position and a longer panty liner: at right is the original pattern. With fair dinkum miniature panty liner. btw; trace the pattern then flip over to trace the other half to get a full back and full front, I did this for my amended pattern and it is much easier to get an efficient layout on the bias!
The bra:
It’s actually pretty easy to adapt the KwikSew pattern to work in non-stretch fabrics too! An underwired, cotton voile muslin worn for an hour about the house taught me that the stretch factor in a bra is best situated nearly all around at the back and only a small proportion of wearing ease is necessary at the front. I found I like the front of my bras to be quite firm and structural, and using non stretch fabric here works well… but you do need some stretch and wearing ease at the back. So I made a modified 34A and lengthened the back bands by roughly 4cm each at the centre back; and used the same lengths of lingerie elastic as recommended in the pattern, pinned in quarters, then gently stretched to fit whilst sewing to the lawn.
Above; the lengthened bands with the same lengths of lingerie elastic as stipulated for a stretch band… see, it doesn’t look too oddly puckered. While I am wearing it, the bands have a gently gathered appearance; obviously some gathering is necessary to avoid putting strain on this delicate fabric.
I wanted the fronts to have something white and lacey and not be all solid Liberty, so found some crocheted lace, another long term resident in my lace box. I backed the lace centre front piece with beige voile leftover from this top, which is kinda invisible against my skin. The obsessive in me demanded that I construct my underwire casings like so…
so that on the insides of the bra the underwire casing is camouflaged as much as possible
and there is no bright Liberty peeking through the lace from the right side of the bra whilst it is being worn.
A layer of white cotton jersey knit of a low stretch factor is sandwiched between the Liberty cups and facings; for a small degree of padding. The edges of the padding pieces are abutted hard up to the stitching lines and hand-basted to the stitching, before machine stitching inside the edge, to the seam allowances. This ensures the thicker jersey edges abut each other but with no overlapping which would create “ridges”, and no gaps which would create a “ditch”.
The shoulder straps are stabilised with iron-on interfacing and topstitched down the centre lengthways, and the stretch factor is provided by satin stitching a length of ordinary braided elastic to the back lower ends.
I chose a narrow, navy blue satin ribbon to make little decorative bows for the set. This picks up the tiny navy blue touches in this very pretty print.
So; the theme for February’s stash-busting is Love! I’m thinking this luvverly, sorta Valentine-y set fits the bill quite well, don’t you??
Details:
Bra; KwikSew 3300, Liberty tana lawn and cotton crochet, my review of this pattern here
Knickers; The Maker’s Journal Tried & True knickers; Liberty tana lawn
Pattern
Description:
This pattern is by
The Maker’s Journal.
Everyday knickers; cut to sit low on the hip and cover the entire bottom. This pattern has been developed for lightweight woven fabrics.
Pattern
Sizing:
Australian sizes 8-14 (hips 88cm-108cm); I cut the size 10
Did
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
Pretty much.
Were
the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are a bit simplistic; if you know how to attach knicker elastic already then you will be fine.
What
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The fact that this pattern is for woven fabrics is marvellous, opening a whole new world of lingerie in Liberty. I love that they are regular bikini knickers; and do not look baggy like bloomers or boxer shorts. They look like real knickers. As well, these are really very very cute!!
The panty liner piece was too tiny for my tastes, and I modified the pattern to allow a more substantial one.
The required lengths of elastic for legs and waist are not provided with the pattern and you have to visit the company blog to find out how to calculate this information. Basically; it’s the measurement of the openings, minus a third.
Kinda oddly, the instructions did contain directions on how to attach a patch pocket onto your knickers. Yep. It outlines how to sew a patch pocket to your undies, but nothing on the measurements of knicker elastic, and how to attach the same. Hmmm, interesting priorities there…
Liberty tana lawn, cotton jersey for the gusset
Pattern
alterations or any design changes you made:
I lengthened the crotch on the lower front and accordingly shortened the crotch on the back. This allowed me to install a much more substantial panty liner.
Would
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Definitely, I will be sewing this one again and again and again! I do
recommend this pattern to others. Just bear in mind that the elastic measurements are not provided and you have to MYO (measure your own)
Conclusion:
I love it!! I will use this pattern over and over again; no doubt about that. I do love Liberty prints, but the cost of them here is prohibitive. Being able to run up a pretty lingerie set in this very lovely stuff is the perfect way to add a touch of Liberty prettiness to your life, in a very wearable and useful form; without breaking the bank. I’m happy!
