Tag Archives: Dress

The Sandwich Bag dress

I finished a new dress…
I love this new little thing; we are expecting more really hot weather around here and I wanted some more really cool floaty things that can waft around my body, if not picking up any actual real breezes then possibly the swishing about of fabric just might create flurries of pseudo-breezes to cool me off…  I know, could be hopeless wishful thinking but in a heatwave one is willing to try anything.
You’re probably wondering about the strange and seemingly random name I’ve given to this quite romantic little number… well remember this?

The very very sweet but fabric-clueless young man who cut, cut? nay, hacked off this piece of silk for me in the Alannah Hill outlet store in Melbourne then packaged it for me by stuffing it (and by “stuffing” I’m not speaking figuratively but quite literally) into a little sandwich bag, painstakingly sealed closed, and presented thus for me to carry out of the store…  Funny!  I was so entertained by this cavalier treatment of fine, high quality silk that the image just became firmly wedged in my head never to be dislodged…  the Sandwich Bag dress was always going to be its name after that.  
A positive, at a pinch I know I can always fit this dress in a teensy little sandwich bag if an emergency packing situation arises…
I’ve had this Vogue pattern for about a year, and finally have used it.  I had always looked at it a bit sideways and wondered if was a very silly purchase that wasn’t me at all, but I’m over that now.  I’ve decided all those extravagant ruffles that before had me balking are really quite flattering for my figure.  So it does pay to try new things and to stretch oneself out of one’s comfort zone every once in a while.  And fortuitously I had just exactly the right amount of fabric, lucky or what??  That young man with his jaggedy cuts did it just right!
The dress is completely lined with navy blue acetate lining, and all the ruffles and raw edges are finished with a rolled hem using two shades of red overlocking thread, just using threads I had already.  The lining hem is finished in the traditional way.  The buttons are these perfect dark mauve discs found at Fabulous Fabrics.  Aaand, I added pockets… ! (self high five)
Below is the pattern review I submitted, in case you’re interested…

Pattern Description:
Lined dresses A, B, fitted through bust area have princess seams, contrast neck and lower flounce, straps and loop closure, sash with threaded loops.
Pattern Sizing:
Overall 6-20, I bought the AA option with sizes 6-12 and sewed a straight size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes, except that I used self fabric for the ruffles, not a contrasting fabric

Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It is a loose fitting dress, so precision fitting is not an issue here, simplifying things.
I wasn’t sure about the look of all those ruffles at first and so put off making up this one for about a year.  Now I love them and feel they are very flattering to my figure.  However those same extravagant ruffles are what contributes to the difficulty of getting a good finish, particularly in the neckline/shoulder strap area, sewing dress to lining and turning right side out in step 24.  In this part I fully appreciated how essential thin lightweight fabric is for this pattern to work at all, so you can scrunch up those ruffles up tight enough to be contained with those thin little shoulder areas when sewing.
Understitching around these areas and the button loop area was quite fiddly.  The button loop area was quite fiddly full stop, but I put this down to the delicate and slippery silk I chose to make the dress up in, and not the fault of the pattern.
Fabric used:
Thin silk charmeuse
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added in-seam pockets in the side seams of the dress.
I used the rolled hem function on my overlocker to finish all raw edges of the ruffles and the sash, rather than the narrow hem method described in step 4 and 5 of the instructions.  So much easier!  Plus instead of double stitching all the seam allowances as described I finished raw edges on the inside by overlocking.
Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it?
I won’t sew this again in the near future, as it is such an eye-catching thing one of these is enough in my wardrobe.  But when this one bites the dust I might.
I recommend this pattern as a lovely romantic little dress, perfect for summer days.  It is actually simpler than it looks, my only proviso is to be certain to only attempt this with very thin fabric.
Conclusion:
I’m a little surprised myself at how much I love the “adorableness” of this dress, not a style I usually go for.  I feel so feminine in it, plus on a practical note it’ll to be very cool to wear on very hot summer days.

Below: I almost didn’t include this picture, but decided the wind had co-operated by showing off the lining, which I hadn’t photographed otherwise…

Below at left; threaded sash loops, at right; yup, pockets!
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A walk in the park

A day of colourlessness (ness, ness) is often followed by a more colourful day, in my world.
And today is a bad hair day, sorry.  Thus the pony.  I am getting my hair cut this afternoon, and I am so sorely tempted to wait until I am salon-coiffured all fabulously before taking a photo… but I am just too busy later on today.  So a dog-walking photo with messy hair it had to be.
In sewing news, I am nearly finished another little floral floaty summer dress, and just needed some lining fabric so headed up to my favourite fabric shop.  And they were having a massive pattern sale!  So I just had to…  Fired up with enthusiasm and a misguided optimism about my own time-management abilities, I bought three new dress patterns, below.  I’ve got so many new patterns to try out…   I’d better get cracking.

Details:
Dress; partly based on McCalls 4453, partly my own design, red/pink polyester chiffon, to see this dress styled in 6 different ways go here
Ballet top; Metalicus, found secondhand
Sandals; Vincenzo, from Soletta shoes
Sunnies; RayBan
Nail varnish; BYS Mint Condition

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Scrap dress

You know how after a sewing project is finished you nearly always end up with scraps, sometimes of such a decent size you can’t toss them out… but not enough to do anything with on their own.  So sometimes I try to actually cobble these scraps together to make some sort of wearable thing.  This is a plan that meets with variable success… 
In spite of which, I’ve made a simple little day dress, out of some of my most recently generated scraps.  I think it will be OK for this summer.  Basically it was a free dress.  Oh, OK I did have to buy a zip, so technically it cost a couple of dollars.
I used New Look 6699 again, modified.  I kind of winged the skirt, as I didn’t have enough fabric for anything.  This one falls somewhere in between the two in the pattern; more A-line that the pencil version, but not as wide as the other.  The lower tiers are all attached under the hem of the top skirt.  I hemmed some but not all of the tiers, because I like the idea of the skirt getting a little raggedy and frayed, I think this look will accentuate the vaguely peasant-y vibes the dress has already.
I also altered the neckline of the bodice and put in a picture below of the bodice and pattern pieces, for the following reason:  My sister-in-law and I were recently discussing a pattern which she had dismissed because it was a V neck, but of course the neckline of a bodice is the easiest thing to alter about a pattern.  You don’t have to cut along the lines of the pattern, just cut out the one you prefer.  Also this pattern has sun-dressy straps with buttons closure at the back while I wanted a one-piece back bodice, so I just pinned the two pieces together and cut out as illustrated below in the photo.  One thing to keep in mind, if you do this you will need a longer zip…  This fabric is the leftovers from Sam’s shirt.

This is a close-up of the shot cotton fabric I used for Craig’s shirt, the leftovers of which are the midriff and the lower tier of my new dress.  Here you can see the bright blue warp and the neon yellow weft.  Amazing to think such a subdued colour can come from these brights, no?

The bodice is lined with the leftovers of the primrose voile I used for the petticoat of my Christmas dress.  The scraps of the Christmas dress itself have been used as one of the skirt tiers, and as bias binding on the neck and armhole edges.  Actually I think this bright floral bias binding against the black and white check turned out to be my favourite feature of this dress.

The other blue skirt tier is from the very last leftovers from this shirt and this dress.
The skirt front and back is the leftovers from this dress.

Detail:
Dress; New Look 6699 with modifications, partly my own design, various cottons
Sandals; Mican by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs shoes
Nail varnish; BYS Mint Condition

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All dressed up with no place to go…

This dress is sooo cool and light and easy.  It’s funny to think this was last year’s Christmas dress… it’s done pretty well.  Perhaps getting a bit “round the house-ish” but still quite nice.  So here I am today, all dressed up kinda nice to venture out to the shops.  But this is the thing…
The funny thing about Australia is that from Christmas Day until well past New Years Day, almost nothing happens.  By that I mean, a lot of shops and businesses will be shut.   Christmas Day being on a Saturday and Boxing Day on a Sunday, so of course both Monday and Tuesday last week were public holidays.  It’s almost a whole week of near shut-down.  Some of the BIG stores have BIG sales, but sensible people avoid those like the plague.
So it’s like this.  The kids are on holidays and it has been extremely hot; I feel like all of us are slumping into a heat induced coma and we are starting to forget what day it is… which is partly why I decided today was the day to rouse myself.   I should get out and tick a few errands off my list, make a few essential purchases at the grocery store.  My inner just-do-it gal is screaming at me to… well, just do it.   So off I trot only to find the streets deserted for yet another day.  Whaaaat?  Ohhhh, New Years’ Day delayed public holiday…. turn around and drive home again.
Luckily for me, I have a little local supermarket I walk to nearly every day which will be open for any essentials, but, well it’s not every day I can motivate myself to actually drive places, park and get bigger business done.
I hope I can get motivated all over again tomorrow…

Details:
Dress; Simplicity 3745, modified to be slimmer fitting, lined and with pockets, white dotted swiss voile and lace
Sandals; Vincenzo, from Soletta shoes
Bag; Gucci
Sunnies; RayBans

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Cassie’s dress

This is the dress I made our daughter for her Christmas present this year.  I know her tastes very well and could picture exactly the dress I wanted to make for her, but was quite anxious about how to go about it.  Cassie is the most difficult one in the family for me to sew surprises for, for the following reasons:

1. In order for her to like it, it had to fit her perfectly; neither tight or clingy, or worse, saggy and baggy.
2. I wanted it to be a length that made both of us happy.  Once upon a time, not too long ago, if you had drawn up as a simple Venn diagram of preferred dress/skirt lengths for Cassie, comprising two sets representing mine and Cassie’s preferences; the intersection of the two sets would have been quite a tiny one.  Luckily she has grown up some and is aware that while barely bum-skimming skirts might be greatly appreciated by guys when a girl bends over to pick something up, that sight of publicly exposed knickers is often a moment of horrified self-awareness for that same girl’s friends.  “OMG, don’t tell me I’ve ever looked like that?!!
3. She loves sewing herself, so is always super aware of what I am currently sewing.  She also loves to go through the fabric stash, looking for something suitable for herself, and often wants to come with me if I go fabric shopping.  This makes embarking on a secretive project an extreme challenge.

So, how to make her a secret Christmas dress, that fitted perfectly, and of a length that she would be happy with?
Well of course, it couldn’t really be much of a secret in the end.  But she has a sense of humour and we managed a compromise… she stood in the laundry with her eyes shut while I did the fitting.  Again with her eyes shut, a mutually satisfying length was decided on.  The surprise for her was just the final look.
The stretch lace I used for this very simple Tshirt dress is of course see-through on its own, so I lined the dress completely with a soft silky like jersey matched in colour to the dress.  The sleeves are unlined.  I positioned the body and sleeve pieces on the length of fabric so the natural edging edges the sleeves and lower hem.  The seams are all overlocked to finish on the inside.  I didn’t finish the lower edge of the lining because it is that wonderful type of jersey that never frays. 
I think she looks just beautiful in it.
And she loves it too, so I couldn’t ask for a more happy result!

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Vogue 8555; a pattern review

(shamefaced) I took some more photos of the dress; inside because the ones Craig took on Christmas Day were a tad blustery.  Yeees, don’t know if you can tell or not but I was being windblasted about mercilessly and those photos are the only ones in which my hair did not look like wild animal on top of my head… so I took some more civilised ones to accompany my pattern review!
High winds, and 40C (104F) and an overnight low of 23C (74F); this is perfect bushfire weather so we are all keeping our fingers crossed for no disasters, please…
Without further ado…

Pattern Description:
Dresses A, B, C, D, E, F have lined bodice, front pleats, front gathers, back darts, self-faced midriff, back zipper and skirt variation.  A. B, C: lined, slim skirt in two lengths with front and back darts, bbac k slit.  D, E, F: skirt in two lengths with front and back pleats, pleat underlay and side seam pockets.  A, D: gathered sleeves with sleeve bands.  A, B, D, E: mid-knee length.  C, F: below mid-calf
Pattern Sizing:
8-22 altogether, I bought the 8-14 option and cut size 10
Did it look like the drawing/photo on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
I sewed view F but made up a completely different bodice front; otherwise yes.  My personal feeling is that the fabric used for the sample in the pattern photograph does not do it any favours… but that’s just my opinion…
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about this pattern?
I didn’t like the bodice, thought it would be too bouffant for my figure so drafted my own more fitted version.  I LOVE the big big skirt of view F!!  
Fabric used:
Printed cotton, with cotton voile for a lining and petticoat
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I constructed a completely different bodice front, details here.  I did this both to get a more fitted bodice, as well as to inject some interest to what is otherwise a pretty basic design…  I also added a waist tie, to tie in a bow at the back and to nip in the waist more.  Also added an attached petticoat to “boof” up that skirt even more, and used an invisible zip in lieu of a dress zip.
Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
I will probably sew it again, if not this view then one of the slimline skirt looks.  It is a very easy pattern, with nice variations.   Highly recommend it to sewers of all levels; with this proviso: if you are not buxom then look closely at that gathered bodice front before using it.  You may wish to either modify it, or substitute a different more fitted bodice as I did.
Conclusion:
I love this dress, and anticipate wearing it a lot.  It is super comfortable as well as beautifully feminine with that big twirly skirt, and big deep pockets to shove one’s hands in.  Big pockets on a dress are such a bonus.  However I am also glad I went with a fitted bodice.  In my opinion a more slimline bodice sets off a big skirt better, provides a well proportioned silhouette.

Details:
Dress; Vogue 8555 view F, with bodice of my own design details here, waist tie and added petticoat, printed cotton
Shoes; Sandler, had for donkey’s years

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Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas, all!  Wishing you a wonderfully happy and peaceful day together with your families and friends!

Details: 
Dress; Vogue 8555, with a bodice front of my own design, and added petticoat and waist tie,  printed cotton
Shoes; Sandler, had for many years

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New life for an old polo Tshirt

Dipping into the ol’ bag of toss-outs I took out an old polo Tshirt of my husband’s.  He never wears it anymore, but the fabric is quite OK if not super duper beautiful or anything…  It is made of a type of sport’s fabric which is really cool to wear in summer so I thought of turning it into a little summer dress.

First thing, it had an embroidered logo.  Obviously that was not going to do…
So I unpicked the pocket and moved it up and over the logo to hide it.  I also unpicked the neck facing and seam holding the collar in place and removed the collar, and cut off the sleeves.

Using an old favourite pattern Burda 8071, I cut out a dress body, keeping as much length as possible and keeping the original hemline intact to become the new hemline of the dress (hey, every bit helps).  In lieu of the body darts stipulated in this pattern which would not have worked with this kind of stretchy jersey fabric, I simply removed a slice from each of the side edges that would have been the dart allowance…
I re-used the sleeves to cut out pocket pieces, constructed these and inserted them in the side seams.
Now as polo shirts button up at the centre front I was aiming to keep this feature and use it for the dress’s closure, rather than putting in a zip.  With the very last leftovers from Craig’s striped shirt, I managed to get out the pieces for the bodice, cutting the back in one piece and the front with a button and buttonhole band for a centre front opening.  I used a little scrap of piping cut on the bias to add some interest to the front opening.  The lining was the last leftovers from my most recent white shirt

The shoulder straps are just some cotton banding I had in my stash, and on the bodice I used little white shirt buttons matched in size to the navy blue buttons already on the polo shirt…
The inside seams of the dress are finished with overlocking, and the bodice lining is invisibly slipstitched in place.
Et voila!  Not glamourous, but I think quite cute enough, and will be a very useful little knockabout dress for a hot working day around the house.
Which is what is on the agenda for today…

Details:
Dress; partly Burda 8071, partly my own design, refashioned from an old polo shirt and some scraps
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, Hobbs shoes

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