Tag Archives: Mens Shirt

Sam’s shirt/jacket

So I finished off the pockets on Sam’s birthday shirt/jacket last night, and did take those few snaps of the pockets to show here because I was so happy at how they turned out, but the light was not great for taking a photo of Sam modelling the whole thing.  So now it is, and I have.
It is made out of thin navy blue non-stretchy corduroy, using the old favourite Burda 7767 with a few modifications… the addition of two breast pockets with arrow head flaps, and the double welt/patch pockets I showed you yesterday.  And a curved hemline.  And I used brown snaps instead of buttons.  The collar facing, yoke facing, flap facings and welt pocket lining are all in a contrasting cotton, woven in a tiny plaid design of beige and black.
So here’s the thing…  I don’t know if it qualifies as a shirt or a jacket, or both.
It is made using a shirt pattern, and can be happily worn buttoned (snapped?) up and on its own… thus earning itself a “shirt” label.  
But also; being made of sturdy corduroy fabric, and also wearable unbuttoned and open over other shirts with his hands shoved in the pockets, it comes off as kinda jacket-style… thus attaining “jacket” status.
A hybrid.  
There must be a name to properly describe garments like this without having to resort to the hyphenated.

my tutorial for doing those combination welt/patch pockets just below
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Smoky short sleeved mens’ shirt

I made for my husband another shirt using the Kaffe Fasset shot cotton from purl soho.  This fabric is so wonderful to work with I’ve considered a few times sneaking off with it to make myself something instead of for him… but that would not be playing fair, right?  This fabric was bought with shirts for Craig in mind, and I must stick with my original good intentions.  No matter how fabulous it is… sigh
The name of this colour is Smoky; and has a deep purply blue warp and a lighter periwinkle/baby blue weft.  I’ve put in a picture showing the different threads below, because I know everyone is totally and completely fascinated with fabric and its composition and loves to get up close and personal …. no? er, that is just me then…hehe
This shot cotton is very light and almost sheer, and is perfect for mens’ summer shirts.  I often feel sorry for men in the heat of summer, they have to wear shorts or trousers, and don’t get the option of floaty unfitted dresses like us girls, which are so much cooler.  I know for myself when the temperature is brutally high I almost can’t bear the thought of a constricting waistband, trapping in the heat and suffocating my body.  This fabric is light and breezy and just gorgeous.  And a dream to work with.
I made this shirt using Burda 7767.  I’ve used this pattern so many times now it is practically a sloper, whatever that is.   Such a strange word, yes?  
There are not many variations introduced into the pattern this time, it is a pretty basic effort.  There are two breast pockets with flaps, and the sleeves have been shortened.  Of course, the shortening of the sleeves makes for a heaps easier construction, not to mention a decent amount of leftovers that I might manage to get some little thing out of for me!  The lower hemline is curved.  This can be quite difficult to do with some wovens but not so much with this great fabric.  I think the looseness of the weave is just enough so it has a very slight stretch to it, making a double foldover hem around those curved edges not so much of a problem.
I used up some leftover thread (from my rusty corduroy jeans) to stitch this.  Plain mens shirts look great with contrasting topstitching, and I adore the vibrancy of this strong tomato red against the dull denim-y blue!  I was also lucky enough to find the perfect buttons.  There is one sewn decoratively on the outside of each sleeve hem for a bit of interest.  Also there is a buttonhole on each of the collar ends, but this is purely decorative and has no button, nor is it even cut open.  This is just a casual shirt, but I like these echoes of businesswear details on a casual shirt sometimes.
(btw, about the headless shots?  sometimes he gets shy and requests this….)

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, with minor fitting and design modifications, shot cotton

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Australia Day

It’s been pretty difficult to post, what with available computer time being taken up with the superior demands of teenage Facebook time, not to mention some essential out-of-office business maintenance.  My blog has taken very much a back seat.
However today is special, being Australia Day and all.  I was mean and muscled everyone out to get on here…!
No doubt Aussies at home will be wearing a much more summery ensemble today, so I wish you a wonderful day as you sit around the pool with your refreshing cocktail, and/or frolic in the surf at the beach.  Enjoy!  We will be celebrating later with a much more wintery concoction of mulled plum wine.
Looking very Aussie here on the streets of Hirafu, on Mount Niseko-Annupuri in Hokkaido, Japan.

Details:
Jeans; Burda 7863, greige corduroy
Shirt; Burda 7767, check flannelette
Beanie; my own design, charcoal wool
Gloves; ??
Snow boots; from Big KMart, in the US.  I’ve had these for about 10 years.  Big KMart is similar to our KMart in Australia, except about three times as big.  No, I’m not exaggerating…!

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Sam’s shirt

This is the shirt I made for our youngest for a Christmas present.  The funny thing about making this shirt was that I cut it out and made it up with absolutely no attempt at secrecy whatsoever, and it was still a surprise to him when he opened up his present!  Luckily a happy surprise…   Yah, Sam is not particularly observant of or interested in my sewing projects, but will sometimes grudgingly give approval or advice when pressed.
This shirt is just the thing for his style.  Sort of conservative, but with the youthful twist.  He currently likes to look a tiny bit cool, but not really.  Sorta hip while still wanting some invisibility.  Just… well, a teenager.
The fabric is cotton check, a bit scrunchy and randomly creased like Tim’s, but is not stretchy and was correspondingly a lot easier to work with.  In fact I love this fabric.
I used the old faithful Burda 7767, with the following modifications; the addition of two bias cut breast pockets with shaped bias cut flaps, shorter sleeves, added sleeve tabs and shoulder tabs, a longer curved hemline, and the use of silver snaps in lieu of buttons throughout.  I also later added an iron motif, like I did for Tim’s shirt, but this isn’t in the photo I took on Christmas Day here, because … oh, kind of long story.  Basically when we were in Spotlight choosing Tim’s motif (Tim was still away working) I asked Sam which one he liked the best.  He promptly and without hesitation chose a square motif with a sailing ship, which was quite cute but I also knew would not look cool on the shirt I was making.  I felt the rearing lion one would look really good.   So I secretly bought this one as well, and slipped them both in the pocket of the shirt when I wrapped it for Sam to decide.  And then he chose the rearing lion too… so I put the rearing lion on and we still have the sailing ship for some other shirt down the track…  
This motif is from the same horoscope collection as Tim’s raging bull; similarly Sam is no more a Leo than Tim is a Taurus… but look at us, defying the system…
I’m a Libra, but I’ve always felt a bit gypped at the mundanity of being represented by an inanimate object; a pair of scales, for heavens’ sake.  The other signs get all this cool stuff like bulls, scorpions, entwining fish and other interesting and/or virile animals, or cool centaurs, beautiful girls, water bearing maidens… the stuff of myth and legend; romantic fables of old.  Scales.  I ask you…  What’s more, I’ve just looked up Libra and,  well thank you Wikipedia, found it described as “fairly faint, with no first magnitude stars”.  Just couldn’t sound more lame…  as if we weren’t struggling with the whole stigma of a kitchen-device-as-our-mascot already…
Excuse my rambling, hehe.  I’m going to go and chill out with some fabric now.

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Tim’s shirt

This is a shirt I made for our eldest son for a Christmas present.  I didn’t need to be secret working on this one, as he was working up in Kalgoorlie up until only a few days before Christmas.
I’m glad he got a job where he is earning some good money but I did really miss him…  oh dear, empty nest syndrome coming on already?  sad…  🙁  
Anyway, we are making the most of him being home now.  And he has probably at least another year of Uni at home.
This fabric was a bit of a *&%# to work with.  Excuse my French.  I’ve had it for about a year, toyed with various projects in my mind, possibly a shirt for Craig, draping it over Bessie to get inspired for something for me etc. and finally came to terms with the fact Tim was the best one in the house to carry off this “deconstructed businessman” fabric.  The fabric is heat set into random crazy creases, and is slightly stretchy, thus the %$#@ factor, have you ever tried fine precision tailoring with stretchy or pre-creased fabric??  And I like for mens’ shirts to be well tailored… well, I just had to accept the quirks of this fabric and go with it as best I could.  I think I wrestled it into some sort of submission with minimal meltdown on my own behalf.   Anyhow I’m very happy with how it finally turned out.  And most importantly Tim likes it too.  He wore it on Christmas Day, and has worn it out to two other parties with his friends since, so must do!
The pattern is Burda 7767 again, this time made up pretty much as is but with narrower sleeve cuffs, the addition of two breast pockets with asymmetrical flaps, a long curved hem and the use of navy blue snaps in lieu of buttons.
I also added this iron-on “raging bull” motif.  Hehe, this is kind of funny because there is no one less like a raging bull than Tim…  It is actually one of a series of horoscope signs, and Tim is not even a Taurus, but meh…  I liked the colours of this motif against the colours of the shirt, and I thought it needed a little extra something to make it less formal and wicked enough for a young bloke.

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, pattern review here, cotton with probably a spot of spandex for stretch?

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Lichen shot-cotton shirt

This is a shirt I made for Craig for his Christmas present, cut out and made up in lots of super secret cloak-and-dagger sewing sessions… although he did help choose the fabric a year ago, so perhaps he might have had some inkling…
But he was nice enough to act satisfyingly surprised and delighted when he opened his present.
The fabric is Kaffe Fasset shot cotton, bought online from purlsoho.com, only the second time I’ve bought fabric in this way.  Usually I prefer to feel the fabric myself with my own two hands to weigh up its suitability to the project I have in mind before purchasing.  Actually “prefer” is too soft a word; I consider this a non-negotiable essential rule for buying fabric…  But I’m familiar with Kaffe Fasset cotton, having come across it before in a local shop (Calico and Ivy), so I knew it would be a good choice for lightweight summer mens’ shirts.
This fabric is a dream to work with, and as the word “shot” implies, has a bright cobalt blue warp combined with an intense acidic yellow weft, to give the fabric this deceptively subdued mossy green hue.  I chose thread exactly matched to the yellow of the weft, for all the topstitching.
Same old same old Burda 7767 again, with his custom fitting modifications, plus two breast pockets with shaped flaps and a longer curved hem.  Well, with the shorter sleeves as well obviously, and also I added a little decorative button detail to the sleeve hems for fun.

Very easy; here is a quick how-to…
Before sewing the sleeve and side seams, measure the desired length of sleeve from the top of the sleeve cap and mark with a pin

Turn back the seam allowance, right sides together and mark centre point.  Also mark with pins points 1cm each side of centre point, and 1cm into the seam allowance, creating a little right-angled triangle on the sleeve edge.
Sew along the two short sides of this little triangle, trim and clip into the corners.
Turn the seam allowance to the inside of the sleeve, wrong sides together and press.
Now sew the sleeve and side seams as usual…
and turn up, press and sew the sleeve hem allowance as normal.  I topstitched along the hem edge to help hold those little peaks in place.
And finally, sewed some smaller (4mm) buttons on the peaks.  A side note; it took me ages to find the two different sized but matching buttons for this shirt…  got these from Fabulous Fabrics.  I used these smaller buttons for the collar button-down too.  (Is there a correct term for that?)
Cute, no?  I think this would look even cuter with an acute angle… haha.  
See, I made a little joke.  
Hmmm.
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Flat out

Ahhh, delightful albeit exhausting day…
Up early for a long walk with my good friend S; but on a low note, I was saying goodbye to her as she is heading back home to NZ.  I’m very sad to see her go.  She’s a delightful lady; great company, sweet, intelligent and funny, and been a really good friend to me.  She’s a rare lady; a Kiwi who actually likes Australia, and says so.  That’s refreshing.

I can’t wait to plan my next visit to see her.
Later a mammoth shopping excursion for a Christmas do we’re hosting tomorrow…
And even later; well, my favourite shop, Fabulous Fabrics has been having a huge sale, and, yes I had to pay them a visit.  But it’s OK.  Really.  You see, I’ve been buying my family’s Christmas presents, from them to me.  It makes sense.  You see, nobody ever knows what I would like, although I don’t get what is the mystery as I can think of, like, a zillion things, hehe…   but, long and short, my family will be wrapping up lengths of fabric,  zips, lining and interfacing to put under the Christmas tree… it sounds a loopy thing but really it makes it all so much easier for everyone, and with the 20% off prices, it is sensible to be buying it now, rather than next year…  So thankyou, my loved ones., for lavishing me with an oh so generous stash injection; all in my favourite colours, perfectly co-ordinating with my current wardrobe, filling in some gaps…  Oh my, so thoughtful…
One needs to express a least a smidgeon of delighted reaction upon opening one’s own presents to oneself… otherwise it just doesn’t work right.  This is an important component of self-gift-giving.

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 with minor design modifications here, cotton/linen chambray
Skirt; modified Vogue 7303, olive corduroy
Scarf; refashioned from old Tshirt, here
Sandals; Vincenzo, from Soletta shoes
Sunnies; RayBan
Bag; Gucci

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Burda 7767; a pattern review

Yesterday I surprised myself when I tried to create a link to the review I wrote for this pattern and found out it wasn’t even here!!  I wrote this for Pattern Review; oh, months ago, and …er, forgot? to put it here on my blog too.  I’ve updated the review here only slightly, to take into account the fact I’ve used it an extra five times since writing this review, and to note some of the variations.
I decided today to wear one of the earliest versions of this pattern I made for Craig; as an overshirt, folded over at the front asymmetrically and belted like a sort of coat.  Please note my fabulous salon-styled do; this kind of glamourous hair doesn’t appear here often…

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, burgundy linen
Dress; Burda 8511 with fitting, neckline and zip placement variations, brown wool mix.  oh, and fully lined too…
Belt; kept from a pair of old cargos
Socks; knitted by me
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti

So without further ado, here is the review:

 Pattern Description:
Men’s dress shirt, one version with front pintucking option, the other plain fronted and with four collar variations
Pattern Sizing:
European 44 (US 34) to European 60 (US 50)
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
I’ve only sewed version B without pintucking, but yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
very easy
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked everything about this pattern, nothing to dislike. It’s a basic men’s shirt!
Fabric Used:
Linen
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The first time I made this pattern up it was for a birthday present for my husband and I had to make it in secrecy with no fittings! Luckily it fitted fine, however the subsequent times I’ve used it I fine-tuned the fitting to accommodate my husband’s measurements perfectly. Namely by deepening the armholes and correspondingly widening the sleeve at the underarm point. Obviously this wasn’t the pattern’s fault, that I couldn’t perform progress fittings, however!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I’ve sewn this up eight times now; for my husband, our two sons and even for me, and plan to use it many times over again in the future. Would highly recommend to others as a simple basic shirt pattern.
Conclusion:
What’s not to like about this pattern? Men’s shirting needs are often simple and uncomplicated and this pattern serves the purpose exceptionally well. Being such a basic pattern means you can add your own variations such as pocket flaps, welt pockets and fancy topstitching variations as much as you wish. You could also shorten the sleeves to make a summer button-up shirt too. The times I’ve used this pattern I’ve varied the pocket slightly each time, and played around with contrasting topstitching details. It’s a simple matter to lengthen the body pieces to create a curved lower hemline if this is desired also. An advanced seamstress could also play around with varying the yoke.
For the versions for my teenage sons I added tabs inside the sleeves that button back on themselves on the outside of the sleeves to hold up the sleeves when rolled up; I also used press studs in lieu of buttons; sewed on two breast pockets with flaps and angled the pocket flaps and cuffs to give a funkier look to suit a teenager’s tastes. This is only one variation of many one could try out with this great pattern. 
Later edit; looking at the other reviews of this pattern I was reminded that the yoke pattern piece had “cut 1” printed on it by mistake instead of “cut 2”. I think this is a simple typo, and not really a problem as the pattern instructions clearly require for there to be two yoke pieces cut, and the pattern cutting layout also illustrates two yoke pieces laid out.

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