Tag Archives: Vogue 1115

a pink pinny

So, I loved my red velveteen pinafore so much… it’s such a lot of fun to wear.  I can’t believe I worried a little that I was too, er mature, for such a garment and I thought I might become the butt of mutton-dressed-as-lamb commentary but you know what? I wasn’t, and I’ve throughly enjoyed having a “pinny”.  So I made another! though I believe this is an improvement even upon its predecessor’s near-perfection because the pockets are a tonne better, in my opinion.

Again, I used the pauline alice Turia dungarees pattern for the bodice section, and modified so the bottom part is a skirt.  I put the pinafore on and pinned carefully so as to achieve the ideal proportion to suit my figure, but it actually turned out identical to the shape of my red one!  I’m really really happy with the shape and length of this, it’s absolutely perfect for me,I think…

I really love the front bib pocket of the Turia pattern, I think it’s super cute.

For the pockets, I got out the pattern pieces for Vogue 1115; the shape construction and placement of these pockets is also close to perfection, in my opinion!  I like my pockets to be a bit bigger, but instead of cutting the pockets bigger, I simply stitch the with a 6mm (1/4″) seam allowance instead of the regular 15mm, and boom! I have bigger pockets!

Fabric; cotton corduroy in the most totally divine shade of dusky pink!!  I saw it on Potters’ Textiles instagram and raced in immediately to snap some up!  Then, for some bizarre reason that I have absolutely no explanation for, I bought only 1.5m.  Sure; it’s quite wide; but still I was struggling to cut my pinafore out of such a small piece, especially since you do have to be strict about following the corduroy’s nap when laying out your pieces.  To be honest; I totally would have cut my pockets bigger, but was dealing with mere scraps after getting out my big, important pieces first.  Anyway, I did get everything I wanted successfully, thank goodness…  Normally you’d think, oh I can always get more fabric! but while I was buying it the lady in the store specifically mentioned that they were nearly out!

Like with my red pinny; I chose to line this one fully.  I cut the lining using three of Craig’s discarded old business shirts.  I’m kind of a stash-busting mission lately; really making an effort to reduce pieces in there that have been kept “just in case”; and particularly; fabrics/garments from my refashioning bag.  I carefully harvested all the buttons off the shirts first, of course…

these matching sets of buttons are quite valuable if you make shirts for the menfolk in your life; particularly the shirts that have those mini-buttons often found on the sleeve plackets and button-down collars.  It’s almost impossible to find the two sizes in complete matching sets like this in haberdashery stores.

 

So you’d think there’s loooooooads of fabric in 3 shirts; and surely more than enough to line a little pinafore??  but of course unless I want my lining to be a heavily patched/seamed, and therefore rather bulky thing, I could really only use the largest swathes of fabric from the backs of the shirts, and still had to join!  But that’s ok; I still feel good about using up at least a little bit more of the refashioning bag!  The lining for my straps was harvested from one sleeve.

THIS! is a cautionary tale…. so, when you’re making welt pockets, and you come to the all-important, ever-so-precise task of cutting the welt opening in your dress fabric?  It’s a good idea to check that your lining fabric has been flipped up out of the way first.  Yeah.  *kicking myself BAD over this disaster…. I used my rotary cutter, and cut the most beautiful clean neat welt pocket opening through the front of my pinny…. AND THE LINING UNDERNEATH AT THE SAME TIME TOO.  Fortunately this only happened once, on just one pocket I mean, and I realised straight away.  If I’d done it for both pockets, I would have seriously considered replacing the lining, for real.  Anyway; I bandaid-ed the problem by ironing on a strip of iron-on interfacing and indulging in some furious and thorough zig-zagging.  Not the most beautiful of repairs, but experience has taught me that this is both a durable and efficient method of fixing a cut like this.

Miraculously, I unearthed a very small length of pink, bias cotton cotton voile from my stash, that I made so long ago I barely remember it.  But it was just enough to finish the hem!!  STOKED!!!

So happy with my pinny!!!!!  I’ve worn it a couple of times already, and am over the moon with it!

I am wearing it here with one of my wool-mix Nettie tees, probably one of my most worn winter tees! my self-designed and -made black tights, and my favourite motorcycle boots.

Now… for something completely different!

Recently I had a conversation with my good friend E.  Now, E is one of my closest friends, we’ve been so for decades and I hold her opinion in high regard.  At the same time! she doesn’t even know I have a sewing blog really, and though she knows I have an instagram account I’m totally sure she has never looked at it… why? because the topic of our conversation on this day was about her recent holiday with her husband, and as an extension of that; how she feels super strongly that “instagrammers” are ruining the world and are just beyond despicable, in her eyes.  In her own words; she despises instagram, because people are obsessed with taking their pictures in the most beautiful places and are thus destroying these places for everyone else, in both the taking of the photos, and the damage they do while doing so.  And not to mention they look ridiculous in their ballgowns and long tresses blowing in the wind, out on the moors, or in front of a particularly picturesque cottage, that’s not even their cottage, or whatever…..  Now… on the one hand I can certainly see her point, especially when it comes to people monopolising key beautiful tourist spots, setting up tripods and preventing other people from enjoying the view because they are prancing around right in the middle of it.  Our conversation didn’t even touch on people leaving rubbish behind, or treading on and damaging delicate flora or anything physically destructive like that! though of course that is a problem too.  My friend blames instagram completely for all this.

Now of course, I have thoughts!  I personally love instagram! though I can see too that all of her points have validity.  I know exactly the type of instagrammer to which she is referring… I have seen them myself too.  And secretly thought how silly it all looks.  And I know I might well be accused of being one of “those prancers” sometimes…!!   HOWEVER; I would argue not! since I take great care to take my own photos in complete private.  I think this is something not many readers of my blog or viewers of my instagram understand about me; I am actually a very shy and quiet person; and would be terrified to take photos of myself in front of other people.  I need complete isolation!  If there were other people there enjoying the view and taking their own pictures or whatever, you can bet your bottom dollar I am NOT going to be getting in their way, or taking my own pictures.  So while the evidence is there on my blog that I do indeed take pictures of myself in beautiful locations, I’m not really making a spectacle of myself in the action of doing it; if that makes sense.

It’s always felt logical to take photos of my new creations in my favourite spots.  It just gives me lots of pleasure to make this happen.  Should I stop? because I’m being ridiculous? or continue because it gives me joy?  rhetorical question btw, no need to answer… I don’t even know why I’m going got all this effort to explain myself really, except maybe to lay out my own thoughts coherently.  Did she strike a nerve?  maybe.  I have a sense of the ridiculousness of it all, even while I’m doing it.  But at the same time, I want to take pictures of my clothes, and I like the idea of nice photos, though my commitment to this waxes and wanes. I did actually go for a fairly long period of time where I only took pictures in my own garage, or in our own house and garden.  I don’t know if it even went noticed on my blog here because I am fortunate to have some quite picturesque corners in my garden, but yes; I went off the idea of ” real” photos “out and about” for nearly a year…

And obviously; I am super opposed to damaging the environment in any way.  If I love a beautiful spot, I definitely want it to stay beautiful for the future!  Leave only footprints and take only pictures.  Am a big proponent of that.

I’m not sure what the right answer is, but I guess I should just continue to be super vigilant and careful about taking my photos only when alone.  It’s easy to “say”, like many people do in this time of (over?)-sharing; that I don’t care what other people think of me, but obviously that would not be true!

What a weird, double life I’m living!  Maybe I should just delete all this?!

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Blue-bell sleeves

Hello  🙂
I’ve made a new top.  Actually I made this a little while ago, and I’ve suddenly came to the glorious realisation that hey! the autumnal weather is here and it’s actually beautiful enough to wear it.  I love this time of the year!
This is made using Vogue 1115 with the body lengthened by about 2.5cm, and used a piece of thin blue woven cotton denim-y stuff.  I chose to use the fabric wrong side out, since I preferred the muted, slightly undefined, yellow-y tone of the blue of the wrong side.  The right side is a stronger blue, which I didn’t think did wonders for my complexion.
I’ve written a pattern review below for anyone interested, but there really is one important thing to know about this pattern, it is rated Advanced/Plus Difficile, and yes, that is a well deserved rating.  The undersleeve/side piece when joined together is pretty tricky to insert neatly; and sewing down the seam allowances of said sleeve gusset with a double row of topstitching? … seriously tricky.

Most of the topstitching I used a deeper blue thread which was painstakingly colour matched to the blue in the fabric weave.  Haha, kidding; actually it is just leftover thread that I already had in my stash  🙂 the fact that it matched is fortuitous!  I used a lighter shade of blue for the bar tacks.

Installing that invisible zip, another seriously tricky procedure.. since I prefer to insert the zip before sewing up the seam below it; and since the seam allowance has to be finished with a double row of top-stitching to stylistically match all the other seams on the garment; this is an area that needed a bit of nutting out.  I’m pretty pleased with the nice even finish I got in the end  🙂

Look at those blissfully deep, welted inner pockets (satisfied sigh)  I made them a smidge deeper and bigger, and the edges are finished with HongKong seaming.

The graceful curve of those pieces in the back is so elegant and stylish.  I just love the seaming lines here!  I also like how the slit at the lower back stylistically matches the slit at the upper front neckline.  imo, it’s the little details like this that set the designer patterns apart from the others.

Those wide bell sleeves… I wasn’t absolutely certain that I would adore these, but they’ve grown on me.  They are certainly comfortable and feel nice to wear, no constrictions whatsoever! and I think they look quite designer-y and interesting.  I worried that the size of them would make them annoying, that they would get in the way of my daily activities, but I’ve worn my new top all day and barely noticed the sleeves.  No worries there!


Details:
Top; Vogue 1115, blue cotton denim
Skirt; based on Vogue 1247, refashioned from another skirt, originally Vogue 8561, details here
Sandals; c/o Misano

Pattern
Description:
Loose-fitting,
hip length, pull-over top has wide funnel neckline with slit, front and back
armhole gusset seaming, bell sleeves, welt pockets, back  inset, slit, side back zip and flat
fell seams.
Pattern
Sizing:
American
sizes 6-12; I cut the size 10
Did
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
Yes.
Were
the instructions easy to follow?
In my
opinion the instructions are straightforward but this pattern is rated
Advanced/Plus Difficile for a reason!
What
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well
I do so love a sewing challenge, and there are a few in this pattern… this is
not a top that can be whipped up in one day, no sirreee!  I dug down deep into my reserves of
patience and only allowed myself to work on the tricky bits when I was feeling
fresh and not tired!  For example:
stitching those double rows of topstitching to the undersleeve and side / front
and back seams was tricky, and also attaching
the neckline facing neatly to the top curved edges of the zip tape quite
tricky.
Fortunately,
I really love the final product!
Fabric
Used:
Lightweight cotton
denim
Pattern
alterations or any design changes you made:
I
lengthened the body pieces by 2.5cm at the hem, and cut the pockets to be 1.5cm
deeper…
Step
16, I chose to reinforce underneath the single layer of fabric with a small
bias cut square of interfaced cloth before stitching the bar-tacks.
Step
35; I prefer to insert the invisible zip before
sewing together the seam underneath, I think you can get a much neater finish
Step
49; I think it is supposed to read “with right sides together” but in any case
I didn’t stitch the welt together like this, just folded it wrong sides
together and continued with step 51 with the edges raw and unstitched, and then
in step 56, slipped them between the pocket and triangular ends, stitching them
in place in the pocket seam, a more elegant and less bulky way of finishing the
welt considering the raw edges are bound with HongKong seaming in step 57.
I didn’t do the following, but if I was
making this again I would…!
Step
3 and step 20 have you slash the underarm/sleeve between stay-stitching… I
recommend instead that you leave the actual slashing until just before step 45, when you pin
and attach the undersleeve and side. 
There’s no need to make the cuts so early, and if your fabric is subject
to fraying then I think it’s best to leave it until the last minute,
particularly since you are cutting so close to the stay-stitching and into the
armhole corner.
Would
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I do
recommend this pattern to the advanced seamster, and I think I will sew this one up again.  And,
ahem, I can get the top on and off without having to even use that
difficult-to-insert zip as long as I don’t mind my hair getting a bit
messy.  Which I don’t.  So, maybe I have a tiny head but
looking at the pattern envelope I think the model probably could do the
same.  The next time I might not
even bother with that zip. 
Conclusion:
I’m very happy with my new top, and I think it is a great
designer take on comfortable and
chic.  I was a bit worried about
those wide bell-sleeves before I started, that they would get in the way of daily activities, and/or look awkward and
stand out stiffly in a difficult-to-wear way but I needn’t have been; the sleeves feel great and look quite cool, and are very comfy in this loose floppy fabric.

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Bared ankles and showcased shoes

O hey peeps!
Today I am sporting new capri trousers, and a pair of new ballet flats!  This may not seem a particularly momentous thing to announce, but aack-choolly… I am recklessly smashing through two new-to-me fashion ceilings in one fell swoop!  
Whoaomigoshholdthephone!
I used to worry that I was too tall and not cute enough for the capris/ballet flats look.  But y’know what?  I’m kinda newly loving this look quite a lot lately…
My capris are made using Vogue 1115, and the fabric is a pale sand-coloured stretch sateen remnant from the Alannah Hill fabric outlet in Melbourne, bought during a visit two years ago….  hmmm, high time it was made into something, non?  Well, I think this fabric was just waiting for this very pattern, like Cinderella waiting for Prince Charming.  Or was it that she was waiting for the glass slipper?  Hmmm, not sure the analogy is holding itself together there…  anyhow, the remnant happened to be exactly the right size to just perfectly fit the pattern pieces.  And they all lived happily ever after  😉
I love the top stitching details, with the little bar tacks.

I chose this Chado Ralph Rucci pattern partly because it is rated Advanced/Plus Difficile, and I just love trying out challenging patterns.  However, a seamster of only a few years experience should not be put off by the Advanced rating; it only takes one quick scan of the pattern sheet to realise that this only applies to the matching top …. the pants could hardly be simpler!  Particularly if one chooses to leave off the full lining.  I live in Australia.  It gets hot here.  One chooses.  🙂
The only other change I made was to cut the legs pieces longer, to enable me to fold up a deeper hem and so therefore to sew the side seam slits to be longer.  I really like the look of the hem slits, I think they are really cute and I wanted them to stand out!
I might be a teeny bit disappointed that the pattern posed no challenges, but I am not disappointed with my new capris.  According to the fashion mags, trousers this season are falling neatly into two distinctive silhouettes; either over-long and flared 70’s style (tick!) or with higher hemlines to expose a slim ankle a la Audrey Hepburn.  Tick!  And a nice thing about capris is that the higher hemline beautifully showcases the shoes.  Like these lovely colourful little ballet flats from Misano.  
These are soooo ultra cute, yes!?

Details:
Capris; Vogue 1115 with the lining left off; sand-coloured stretch sateen
Shirt; my own design, made from an old pair of white linen pants, details here
Scarf; knotted strips of jersey, first shown here
Shoes; a gift from Misano

Following is my review of the pattern, if you’re interested  🙂

Pattern
Description:
Lined,
tapered above ankle-length pants, have seam details, side slits, zipper and
back yoke.
Pattern
Sizing:
American
sizes 6-12; mine are a size 10
Did
it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished
sewing it?
Yes.
Were
the instructions easy to follow?
Very
easy!
What
did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
There
is nothing not to like!  I love
absolutely everything about these pants…  I really like the curved seamlines down each leg, and the double topstitching detail with a little bar tack.  I adore the hemline side seam slits.  Subtle, classy and cute!
One of the reasons I chose the pattern is because it is an advanced/plus
difficile pattern, and I love challenging patterns.  However that rating must only apply to the matching top, because the
pants are super easy!
Fabric
Used:
Stretchy sateen
Pattern
alterations or any design changes you made:
I
left off the lining because the climate I live in is not conducive to lined
pants!
I cut
the trouser legs a little longer so I could fold a deeper hem and therefore sew
the side slits to be longer, because I really liked this feature and wanted
them to stand out more.
Would
you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Without a doubt;
and highly!  I am looking forward to
sewing up the top sometime too.
Conclusion:
A
very nice pattern; easy, with classic lines and a very current silhouette.  I am very happy with my new
capris.  Seriously, I cannot
believe now it has taken me this long to hop onto to the capri bandwagon…
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