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Burda 7767; a Rogue’s Gallery

06/02/2013 11:00 pm \ 36 Comments \

A quick head-count and I realised I’ve made enough more of these shirts to put together another Rogue’s Gallery of Burda 7767’s…
This is hands down my most used pattern evah… I have used it 27 times!!  My first Burda 7767 Rogue’s Gallery contained 14 shirts and now this new gallery features another 13 shirts.  Will there be more…? of course!
It is so easy to add little bits and bobs to this most classic of patterns to create a variety of shirts each with their own distinct character…  each shirt is linked to the original construction post, and my variations to the basic pattern are listed after the link.  My original review of this pattern is here.

version fifteen: a linen army style shirt for me.  Added epaulettes, two bellows breast pockets with flaps, sleeve tabs, folded-out button band, curved hemline.

version sixteen: linen shirt for Craig.  Curved edge breast pockets with curved edge flaps, double buttons on cuffs and pocket flaps, curved hemline
version seventeen: cotton shirt for Dad.  Short sleeves, curved edge pockets with curved edge pocket flaps, curved hemline.
version eighteen: cotton shirt for Craig.  Short sleeves, cuffed sleeves with shaped tabs, shield-shaped pockets with oversized rectangular flaps, curved hemline.
version nineteen: crinkly shirt for Sam.  Epaulettes, bias-cut pockets, bias pocket flaps, curved hemline.
version twenty: slightly stretchy, crinkly shirt for Tim.  Short sleeves, breast pockets and flaps, curved hemline, closely fitted to the body.
version twenty-one: cotton shirt for Craig.  Shorts sleeves, curved hemline, epaulettes, slanted breast pockets with slanted pocket flaps, tabs on sleeves
version twenty-two: cotton shirt for me, now belonging to Cassie and worn as a dress.  Super long length, a curved hemline, and with double, layered sleeves;  a long sleeve linen sleeve underneath a short cotton sleeve.  Square pockets with arrowhead pocket flaps and a button-down collar.
version twenty-three: a linen shirt for Dad.  Bellows breast pockets with arrowhead pocket flaps.  Curved hemline.
version twenty-four: a business shirt for Craig.  Contrasting white collar, collar stand, cuffs, sleeve placket, pocket panel and button bands.  Curved hemline.
version twenty-five: a linen shirt for Tim.  Short sleeves, curved hemline, button down collar, bellows breast pockets with curved pocket flaps, cuffed sleeves with featured buttons
version twenty-six: a crinkly shirt for Sam.  Sleeve tabs, curved hemline
version twenty-seven: a cotton shirt for Craig.  Short sleeves, club collar and split side seams.  Square breast pockets
Trivial fact; that post with the Burda 7767 review and also featuring me wearing an outfit I now consider to be rather hideous; holds the bronze medal in page views on my blog.  This is completely amazing to me.  I have no idea why people would find and randomly hit upon that post!
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Shell-pink pleats, please!

05/02/2013 12:01 am \ 63 Comments \

I have made a little top for Cassie to wear to work.  Or wherever she pleases, of course  🙂
This is Vogue 1142, which I made in yellow silk for myself last month.  Cassie admired it so I offered to make one for her.  She enthusiastically accepted.  A daughter loving the clothes I make?? gets me fired up with the zest to sew unselfishly straightaway.
I didn’t have anything suitable in my stash so I visited Fabulous Fabrics and bought a piece of lovely shell-pink viscose crepe.  I think the soft delicate colour is a beautiful compliment to her pale peaches-and-cream complexion.  Plus: viscose = wash-and-wear of course, so another ideal addition to her professional working wardrobe!
As in for my first version; I edge-stitched each pleat in place.  The 100% viscose crepe is quite crisp and stiff compared to the thin silk I used previously; and it presses and pleats like a dream.  I think those sharp regular pleats look absolutely wonderful in this more crisp fabric.  I’ve taken lots of photos of those pleats and that artfully and prettily crinkled neckline because whilst I do love the slight floppiness of my own top I really really love how crisp, sharp and sculptural the pleats look in this fabric.  It looks quite formal and business appropriate.

A little tip for working with this pattern: this time, as soon as I had edge-stitched the outer sets of pleats on each of the front and back I immediately pinned the pleats in place and stay-stitched along the shoulder stitching line.  This makes it much easier to handle the big pieces, and having that stay-stitching makes sewing the shoulders together a bit easier too.

Also; this must be like the easiest pattern in the world to grade for size.  Seriously!

Oh, you might be wondering if Cassie has barely had a single thing to wear since she got her job and I’ve contributed only one measly skirt to her working wardrobe?? well of course she has not gone without all this time!  She does have one very nice pencil skirt that she has made for herself (un-blogged), and I have made a little woollen pencil skirt for her previously.  Both suitable for the office and she has been rotating between the three skirts.  And since I pledged to wear only my own handmade clothes this year, there is a nice little selection of shop-bought cardigans and random Metalicus items that she has joyfully transferred to her own wardrobe.  At least my RTW clothes are not going to waste  🙂

Details:
Top; Vogue 1142, shell-pink viscose, my review of this pattern here
Skirt; Vogue 8363, black wool mix, details here and my review of this pattern here

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Stuff

03/02/2013 4:00 am \ 27 Comments \

28th January-2nd February
(if you’re new, I’ve pledged to wear only clothes handmade by me this year and to sketch my daily outfits in my Fashionary.  I’m calling this the paper doll project)

Thank you for those nice compliments on my Aquarius dress  🙂
It was pretty hot that day, but my photos can attest to how insanely windy it was at the same time…. ideal bushfire conditions.  Today is even more hot, but not a breathe of wind.  At least that wind keeps the temps down a tad… but I don’t know which is preferable; hot heavy stillness, or hot air blasting around?? tough call.
Whatevs; the paper dolls are trying to stay stylish but keeping cool is their biggest priority.
Summarising January’s stash-busting efforts…
Straight-up I have to confess to buying one new piece of fabric this month… but I’m not counting it since it is not for me and I have already made it up.  It did not even get to nod to its buddies in the stash before it was flung in the washing machine, on the floor, and chopped and stitched up.  Results will appear here soon.. when its recipient can spare me a minute for a photo.
I used the teensiest wee corner of a veritable king-sheet-sized piece of blue jersey to make 3 tester bras and my newest lingerie set, so no discernible dent was made in that, really (not a win).   However, I did use a piece of lace that has been languishing in my lace box for goodness knows how long (win!)  and I refashioned one garment, which is not reducing the stash, but still a good feeling (win!)  I came to the aid of another in reducing her stash; when I made Cassie’s sundress (a Good Samaritan win!)  
Overall; four garment sized pieces of fabric have disappeared from my stash this month… so I’m counting myself fruitfully engaged in the Year of Diminishing the Stash.
Now: OK, I can barely contain myself any longer…. I’ve bought something rather exciting, and I’m simply bursting with how much I want to show it to you here; have been chuckling with glee ever since I took delivery!  but it will have to wait for a bit; for one big, very important reason.  Give it a week or so  😉
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Aquarius

31/01/2013 10:00 am \ 76 Comments \

… the water bearer!
So this dress incorporates the design from page 56 of Pattern Magic 2, by
Tomoko Nakamichi.  It is described as “a flip turn draped design tie appears from the
slit in the front bodice for a complex and beautiful effect.”
When I was playing with ideas for the Aquarius theme I had in my head; I imagined that front panel as a swimmer shooting out of the watery waves that are embroidered around the hem of the dress, up the front of the dress, and diving back into the water at the neckline.  Yeah, I do occasionally have an overactive imagination….  🙂

To represent the Aquarian waves I embroidered a running stitch sine wave around the lower hem of the dress, and on the full-length front panel.  I originally had lazy-daisy water droplets going down the side of that front panel too… but the family veto-ed that one,  thought they were naff.  Hmf!  😀
I do like the visually peaceful hypnosis of sine waves.  Design-wise I’ve used them before.
And Aquarius is sometimes represented with a waves vaguely reminiscent of sine waves too.
The deep blue fabric is slightly rough and slightly crinkly cotton from Fabulous Fabrics.  I absolutely love this stuff.  It feels like it’s going to be so comfy and easy to live it.  When I found it in the store I bought some in each of the four colours!  This blue is the first piece to go under the knife scissors  🙂

I really like this longer length too.   I’ve already got a few short dresses and I wanted to go with something different this time.  I think it’s quite elegant, and the proportion of skirt to bodice lend the dress a more graceful and refined silhouette.

Details:
Dress; partly self-drafted, based on the flip turn design from page 56 of Pattern Magic 2, by Tomoko Nakamichi, blue cotton
Sandals; la soffitada Gilde, from Zomp shoes

Construction blah blah blah…
I drafted the dress a little differently from that suggested in the book… in this case I gave the dress a long darted true A-line skirt with satisfyingly deep deep inseam pockets.  To fit the back skirt to my slight swayback, I sewed modified darts in the skirt, and folded pleats in the bodice at the same position.  This allows the bodice to blouse out nicely from out of a fitted waistline.  The front skirt and bodice have the same dart/pleat thing happening.  This is a waist-slimming trick  😉

It is photographed here on Bessie who is bigger than I am, so it does blouse out more blousily on me.  The back of the dress is quite plain…

The dress is put on and taken off with a long invisible zip in the left side seam, and that long front panel is invisibly stitched down to the dress at the waistline.

The front neckline has to accommodate the flip turn tie, so I finished it with a narrow hem.  The back neckline and armscyes have interfaced facings.  The bodice slit has been finished like a letterbox opening, with a hemmed rectangle of facing fabric.  Like a welt-less and pocket-less welt pocket, if that makes any sense.  After wearing the dress for a few hours the pokey-out end ceased diving obediently into the water, and instead kept slipping sneakily back inside the dress, so I anchored it firmly in position on the inside along the sides of the letterbox opening.  It’s not going anywhere now!

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Taupe is dope

28/01/2013 5:00 am \ 14 Comments \
Actually, I think the colour of my new ballet flats and scarf is more ecru than taupe, but the name printed on the side of the shoe box was “taupe”.  So I’m running with it.  Seeing as not much at all rhymes with ecru.  
But whatevs … shoes!  in one of my favourite colours.  Or is that even a colour?  🙂  I’m thinking these are almost animal print.  What I love is that what “looks” like a spotty print is actually little irregularly shaped perforations in the leather, providing natural ventilation for hot sweaty feet.  That’s a real plus on hot sticky days like we are getting.  Win!
Technically speaking, the new “scarf” is just a wide strip of soft, silk/linen jersey knit bought at the Morrison remnant sale.  I originally thought to make lingerie with it, but now I’ve decided that I could well use a soft little summer scarf in this non-colour.  Well the colour is perfection incarnate, no?  It exactly matches the ballet flats.  So, it has migrated from the stash and into the wardrobe, and is getting worn.  Yes!  Wearable stash!   I don’t think this counts as stashbusting, but…  😉  I might still use it for lingerie.  Mebbe, mebbe not.  I’m still thinking about that, but in the meantime it’s doing fab as a scarf.
I do love a light airy scarf; so fantastic for protecting the decolletage from the notoriously harsh Australian sun.  If I’m driving I often rearrange it over my right arm, and it’s amazing how effective it is at keeping one cool, just keeping that direct sunlight off.

The latest addition to the Navel-Gazing Fashion Blogger’s Society photo collection.

Details:
Top; Vogue 1247, details here, made of cotton dyed by me, my review of this pattern here, and see this top styled in 6 different ways here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, made of stretch denim then dyed,  details and my review of this pattern here, and see this skirt styled in 6 different ways here
Scarf; remnant
Shoes; c/o Misano

(if you’re new, I’ve pledged to wear only clothes handmade by me this year and to sketch my daily outfits in my Fashionary.  I’m calling this the paper doll project)

Some more navel-gazing; this time about the outfit fourth along… (seen first here) this was one of my earlier refashions from Wardrobe Re-fashion days.    This is one that I sometimes forget to wear, because it is “old”, isn’t conventionally pretty and is even a little strange…  and sometimes I have to wear a thing for a day to decide whether I still love it or not.   But whenever I do wear this skirt and top ensemble I’m reminded how much I do love slightly weird clothes.  I think I want to get back to making interesting things again.  
Anyhoo, I decided again that the men’s shirt ensemble is definitely a keeper.  The same cannot be said for something from the previous week, which I am taking the scissors too… pretty soon  😉

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Blue marle jersey and creamy lace set

27/01/2013 6:00 am \ 45 Comments \


I’m very happy with this latest set, I just feel like I am getting happier with each one!
The bra is made using KwikSew 3300 (my review of this pattern here), the undies with lace across the top are my old faithful McCalls 2772, and the other pair with the two diagonal strips of lace are from a pattern copied from a rtw pair.
The latter is very cute, it fits somewhere between a bikini and a boy-leg style, a hybrid of the two.  The construction was a bit more involved than the McCalls bikini but it’s nice to have some variety.  I really liked how the back leg edge is on the fold, a bit different and a really interesting feature.
The set is made from a blue marle cotton-mix jersey (leftovers from this hoodie) and a lovely creamy lace, with creamy yellow lingerie elastic throughout and cream satin ribbon bows for decoration.  The lower bra cup is lined with a thick-ish, stable, non-stretchy knit (leftovers from this skirt), and the bra centre piece and underwire casings were made with lightweight beige cotton voile (leftovers from this top)
The bra sewalong organised by Amy has been absolutely brilliant! If you are new to sewing lingerie I highly recommend checking out her detailed posts on construction.  Her passion for lingerie is sincere and very inspiring!  I’ve been keeping up with everyone’s fitting stories on the Flickr group, and the advice and tips given have been invaluable.

The nitty gritty about my bra; this will be of interest to my fellow lingerie nerds only….

This is the sixth time I have made up the KwikSew pattern, and the first time as a 32A and without a moulded cup insert.
I lined the lower cups with a thick-ish, stable, non-stretchy knit; overlapped with and then sewn to the seam allowances..  This gives a bit more needed oomph to that flimsy blue jersey fabric..
The straps: usually I go with a plain, non-adjustable bra strap relying on the stretch inherent in the fabric to provide the ease factor….  (did someone just say “slacker!“?)  this time I followed the instructions and interfaced the straps, then satin-stitched a piece of elastic to the lower back ends to allow for the stretch.  Here’s where things get creative…. my elastic options (and well, everything else too) are kind of limited here in Perth but I do still want to stubbornly but loyally support my local shops.  My lace is a lovely ivory creamy colour so I chose the “skin tone” lingerie elastic to go with it.  But the lingerie elastic is not very heavy duty on its own and I worried it would not stand up to strains of bra strap duty.  So I zig-zagged a strip of more heavy-duty, braided 8mm white elastic to the back.  This provides hidden strength, and the colour from the right side still matches everything else in the set.

The straps are adjustable… and if there is one thing I’m super disappointed about it is that the only sliders I could get are pure white… not happy, Jan!  To my eye they stand out like a sore thumb.
For the same reason (limited colour choices) I had to choose a one-hooked, hook and eye closure; this being the only size available in cream.  I’m actually fine with that, not being of a figure type that needs heavy-duty support in the chestal region, ahem.  At least the colour matches!  I just trimmed the back pieces to fit.
I cut the centre piece backing and the underwire casings from small scraps of beige voile, and yes, I did obsessively switch between blue, beige and white thread so that the stitching matches the fabric.

I used cream-coloured satin ribbon to stabilise the lace upper cups, the same ribbon that I used for the decorative bows on all three items.

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Broderie anglaise

26/01/2013 4:00 am \ 35 Comments \
Fulfilling a filial request….  Cassie wanted a pretty little sundress for some upcoming parties.  Actually she was totally planning to make this herself, honest.  Well, that’s her story and she’s sticking to it! but her new career has left her with not as much free time as she thought she would have.
Ahh, the disquieting little thought-readjustments that come with one’s first full-time job.  
Fortunately she has a Mum, willing (sorta) and able to step in.
The pattern is from Burdastyle magazine 05/2010, dress 114; a pattern I have used before to make this sundress for myself, and  Cassie has used the same pattern for herself once before also.  It is an utterly fantastica design for very hot weather; cool, practical, comfortable and pretty, and we have each independently and joyfully discovered that our dresses never fail to draw compliments.  Subsequently, Cassie wanted another.  Well, when you’re on to a good thing….  😉
I made the same modification to the back bodice that I did to my own dress to give complete lingerie coverage.  

The lower tier is sewn to a separate, slightly shaped lining piece, which is sewn to the bodice lining and which lies underneath the top tier.  So in this latest version of the pattern the two tiers are completely separate from each other.

Cassie chose the fabric, two different types of broderie anglaise cotton voile from Fabulous Fabrics, and I used a little of my precious horde of plain white cotton voile too.
The buttons and butonholes on the bodice whilst functional, are essentially decorative; since the dress is put on and taken off with a long invisible zip set into the side seam.
Above; note the ubiquitous hair-lacky bracelet.  I frequently wear one of those myself, too.
Voila, we have party dress.   Ees time to part-ay.
Details:
Dress; Burdastyle magazine 05/2010, dress 114, slightly modified; of white broderie anglaise, my review of this pattern here
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Blue denim dress; 6 different ways

23/01/2013 11:00 pm \ 38 Comments \

I made this cotton denim/chambray dress using Vogue 1152 about two and a half years ago.  It first appeared on the blog, along with my review of this pattern here, and it has always been a favourite player in my wardrobe.  The fabric is hard-wearing and casually comfortable, crinkles naturally and charmingly.  Comfort dressing, yes!
It’s appeared here on the blog a whole tonne of times already, in daily outfit photos, in the me-made months.  In this year I’ve pledged to wear exclusively my own handmade clothes bar the shoes, these are some of the ways in which I can mix and match the dress.
Actually, up until now rtw tights or maybe gloves have slipped into the equation… but not this time!  Whoo hoo!  I have linked to the construction posts of everything else I am wearing here.

At left;  committing the double denim crime… I’m wearing the dress layered over with a chambray shirt made of the same fabric, my scrumply Pattern Magic charcoal grey, spiral leggings and ankle boots.  Below right; what’s this? double denim again!  Worn with my denim-look tights, green knitted hoodie and knotted blue scarf.  Incidentally, who ever said blue and green should never be seen?? I wear blue and green together all the time!

chambray1
Below left;  yes, well, I do love the layered look  🙂  Here, a longline lace skirt does petticoat duty underneath the skirt, and a classic navy blue silk blazer pulls it all together smartly.  Raspberry pink sandals add a touch of cheerful colour.
Below right; for a more casual ensemble, this little jean jacket hoodie gives a more laidback sporty vibe to the dress.  It might not have appeared on my blog every often, but this little jacket is a favourite of mine already!
Below left; I do like to wear dresses over jeans sometimes, how they become transformed into a tunic. The colour of these ivory flared jeans picks up and accentuates the four rows of ivory piping on the bodice of the dress.  Below right; blue-and-green together again!  The dress is actually quite low-cut, so if I am going out where actual people might see me I will often stop to grab a scarf to throw on over the decolletage.  Adds some interesting colour, and saves blushes!  In this case I’m wearing two scarves twisted togethchambray2er to get a bit more colour happening… turquoise silk chiffon, and cobalt blue knotted jersey scarves.  Green and cobalt ballet flats echo the same colours.
chambray3

These are just some of the different ways in which the dress can be mixed and matched to suit all the seasons.  Today I’m wearing the last aquatically-hued outfit, with the blue and green scarves and ballet flats, and I’m looking forward to wearing the others as the weather cools down more.  I’m rather chuffed that I could come up with all-rtw-free, workable outfits that I actually like!

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