Monthly Archives: December 2015

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2015; a retrospective

The last day of the year! now for some riveting (haha) navel-gazing upon the creation and wearing of my clothing.  Kicking off with my favourite outfit pictures from each month.

January

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SO:
What have I made: Quantitatively, 72 things, including 22 things for others.  This number is counting each underwear set of bra with two matching undies as one thing even though technically it’s three things! as well I made some beanie/dress/shirt outfits for preemies, and counted each set as one thing.
Knitted garments: 18

From existing stash: 19

What am I wearing: I keep my daily outfit blog updated pretty faithfully and really do analyse it…  I tot up the numbers last day of the month, and update an excel spreadsheet on the last day of the year; but won’t subject you to that.. you’re welcome #statsfreak #whatcanisayilovenumbers
This year, 93.8% of clothing I wore was made by myself; this number includes underwear, socks and tights but not shoes.  Qualitatively, things I wear that are not made by me are my Metalicus tops, that I’ve had for years and years and have no intention of throwing out just to appease my insane me-made sensibility, and scarves that have been given to me as gifts by family.  Not throwing those out either, obviously!

I have not bought any ready to wear clothing for SIX years now!

My most worn items of clothing this year can pretty much be summed up in the following pics:
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and also my cream infinity scarf and my raincoat got a lot of use

 

 I took part in the vintage pattern pledge for the first time, and managed to make six things…
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Favourite creations of the year: well, obviously I’m pretty pleased with my 1yr1outfit efforts! although I might not wear them super-frequently I am very proud I managed to fulfil the challenge successfully.
 As far as wearability and suiting my lifestyle; my favourite creations for the year are probably my watercolour silk dress (pictured above), my recently finished Japanese indigo-dyed dress, also my pleather/wool moto jacket rates pretty highly in the satisfaction stakes.

A huge honour was when Heather of Closet Case Patterns named her new pyjama pattern for me!  *pinches self*  pictured in March, above

Fails:  I tried to grow indigo for a home-dyeing experiment… FAIL.  Not a single seed even germinated  *sob*  I’m still getting over that one…   I let my blue sea change top go.  Lesson learnt: panne velvet is awful stuff and good for… well,  practically nothing, actually.    My purple silk tulip skirt was shaping up to be real goodie but got chewed up in the washing machine when it somehow snuck in with a load of denim jeans *sob* like your hand knit lace shawl versus a new puppy, obviously that’s not going to end well.  I discovered lingerie made from old recycled tights does not last nearly as long as lingerie made with new fabric SURPRISE….. NOT!  and also my recurring epiphany that pleather/leather skirts are kinda stupid things and not comfortable at all.  I don’t know why I keep on torturing myself by adding them to my wardrobe really, just a dumb glutton for punishment, I suppose.  Not quite ready to give up on my chocolate one just yet though, I’m going to give it another chance to prove itself next winter….

But anyway; overall, as far as my sewing/wardrobing efforts go I’m pretty happy with the year.

Most importantly of all!  I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who reads my blog and takes the time to leave a comment, every kind word is very much appreciated.  *mwah*  I love that the sewing community are such a busy and happy bunch; creating like mad, inspiring and supporting each other always, wearing our creations happily and proudly, and sharing freely, openly and generously with each other.

Thank you so much! big hugs all round  🙂 and here’s to a wonderful 2016!
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3 hoodies

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In other Christmas “making” I also made hoodies for my three menfolk; Craig, and for Tim and Sam.  For the last few years I’ve made summer shirts for them, but this year I wanted to do something different.  And all of them love wearing hoodies! so bam! easy decision really.

Hmmm, yes, I had to get Bessie to model them, who is shaped very differently from each of my guys, of course!! but I took these pictures before I wrapped them up to pop under the tree and haven’t had the opportunity to get the boys to model them for pictures.  Not to mention that it’s been 30C+ every day… phew! so no one wants to wear them just yet! Pictures with them actually IN their new Christmas stuff will have to wait for a little while…

I used my pattern taken from an old hoodie of Craig’s, that had a really cool style of hood/collar combined; it sits really nicely and looks a bit more stylish than the regular two-piece no-frills hood.  If anyone’s interested I once wrote a tutorial on this collar/hood, with pictures of the pieces if you’d like to have a go at it.

DSC_2623Over the years since I first drew the pattern out I’ve had to slightly alter it and custom fit to each of my boys each time I’ve made it.  They keep doing annoying things like working out and growing taller with longer arms and gaining a bit here, losing a bit there as time goes on.  So it’s always a bit more of an exercise than just whipping out a pattern and zooming it up with the greatest of ease…. NOT!

Anyway, I’m not complaining.  I love making stuff for my family  🙂

I went to Spotlight and bought up big on stripe-y, fluffy jerseys in a winter weight.  And the beanies in the previous post? I chose the colours to match so that each man’s hoodie/beanie is a nicely toning ensemble in their colours.

Sam’s hoodie, at top; is light grey and white, with a grey beanie to match, because I think he looks great in grey.  I bought some pale grey marled lightweight jersey to do the hood and the kangaroo pockets, because I feared it would look a little too pyjama-y, or sort of juvenile or something.  I don’t know what it is about the pale grey stripe that made me worry about this, because… it’s funny, can’t logically explain why I have this thought, but I reckon you get away with a full hoodie in a blue stripe whereas in pale grey not so much, looks bit cheap or something.  Can’t explain it.  In any case I just intuited having a contrast in this particular colour would be a good decision and I’m glad I did it.

For Craig, I chose a muted air-force blue, with a small white pin-stripe.  And with a red beanie for him, because he likes red and blue in winter and tends to wear them together a lot.

DSC_2628The air force blue looked pretty cool and right up his alley and it’s a very nice weight, I loved it upon first sight.  However, after washing it and hanging it out to dry, then laying it out for cutting, I discovered to my amazement that the “stripe” actually was more of a gentle, slight “wave” of stripes across the fabric looking like this ” ~ “, NOT a straight horizontal stripe.  AAAAUGH!!  and being “slight” of course, means it really comes across like a bit of a boo-boo, rather than look like an intentional wave, which I could work into the design somehow.  Nope, this just looked OFF.

Grrr.  Anyway, I did my absolute best with it, pulled it into shape in some places, cut out a wee bit dodgily in other places where it didn’t matter, like the kangaroo pocket.  I know the pocket appears to be not drastically far off straight in the picture but trust me, that’s an optical illusion created by clever cutting and placement!!  Also the side seam stripes don’t match, the most obvious area where the fault can be seen.  He really likes it though, so I’m putting aside my dumb perfectionist tendencies and just enjoying that he enjoys it  🙂

For Tim, I chose a navy blue with ivory stripe and his beanie is the matching navy blue.  This fabric was the thickest of the lot, slightly ribbed, and is toasty warm.  For the drawstring in the hood, the fabric was too thick to work and so I used a strip of Craig’s hoodie fabric, folded outwards so the solid coloured blue is on the outside.

DSC_2630Oh, the hoodie strings… in each case I made a self-fabric drawstring for the hoodies, bar Tim’s, as explained.  To make a drawstring in the jersey, I cut a 1-2cm strip of fabric across the grain.  Most jerseys have a natural tendency to roll or curl up across the grain, and you can use this to full advantage while making your drawstring.

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Just allow the fabric to curl up just like it wants to, and stitch it with a zig-zag stitch in a width set to just under the width of your finished strip.  Start from the centre, because it looks neater that way with the central start/stop point hidden inside the hood casing, and finish at each end.  IMG_7461IMG_7467

Thread the flat drawstring through a wool needle and pull it through the hood casing; cut both ends equally to size, then tie off in a simple knot, so they won’t slip back through the eyelet at all.  Easy peasy, and colourwise looks like it was tailor-made to go with the hoodie perfectly, which it was, of course, haha.  Well, by that I mean that we all know how difficult, if not impossible it can be to get drawstrings to colour-match our fabrics perfectly?  mm hmmm.

Problem solved!

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The first three hoodies that I made from this pattern can be seen here, here and here; hoodie tutorial here

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a bevy of beanies

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A bounty of beanies!  Buckets of beanies!  Beanies galore!  Beanies beanies beanies!  Beanies! Beeeeeeeeanies…DSC_2625

So, I might have beanies on the freaking brain lately.  I’ve been on a beanie making bendahhh!  A beanie-a-thon.  Makin’ some beanehhhhs!  Yeah..  DSC_2638

And I got my recent new man-about-the-house, Mr ‘Ed to model the newest creations.  Over to you, Mr ‘Ed!DSC_2627Well, hello thair! I’m Mr ‘Ed, but you can just call me Mr ‘Ed.  Soooo frightfully pleased to meet you.  My, but you have ze most beautiful eyes… shining with ze brightness of a thousand stars.  May I buy you a drink?DSC_2628

Oh, sorry ’bout that.   He looks like the strong silent type but actually he’s the worst sort of flirt.

OK, so the beanies…  with a trip away to snowier climes coming up pretty soon I conceived the brilliant idea of knitting a new beanie for everyone in the family.  Fired up with enthusiasm I immediately bought a small mountain of yarn.  Madness.  I did something right though in that a lot of it was that one-ply chunky yarn, the sort that is like a skinny hank of fleece, barely spun at all. I know this stuff gets a bit of a bad rap but in its defence though, it sure knits up pretty quick and does makes a lovely warm beanie.  I’ve made seven beanies, seven! and I may have given myself self-induced tennis elbow now, or should that be, knitters’ elbow? but anyway, it’s done.

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All beanies, apart from the blue one are knitted in the flat and then stitched up the side.  Generally  I prefer to knit beanies in the round but in this case I didn’t happen to have the right size needles, so in the flat it was:

I’ve written out my three, very simple patterns, and they are all available as free downloadable pdf patterns here

mid grey, black charcoal, burgundy red beanies:   Baggy beanie

(aran-weight)  blue  beanie: Baggy beanie 2

raspberry (at top) and cream (below) cabled beanies with pom-pom: Cabled beanie

Yarns, all from Spotlight:

(raspberry, at top) Moda Vera Jester in Fuchsia, modelled with my mossy green scarf
(mid grey) Moda Vera Mawson, with my mustard cowl
(black) Moda Vera Shiver in Black, modelled with my cream infinity scarf, 
(burgundy red); Moda Vera Shiver in Burgundy, with my mossy green scarf
(flecked charcoal) Heartland in Black Canyon, with my cream infinity scarf
(navy blue) Patons Inca in col 7047, with my mustard cowl
(cream) Moda Vera Jester in Cream, with my plaid scarf, which is just a hemmed piece of slightly fluffy woolly plaid
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Also; here’s how I make an easy cheat’s pom-pom.  Otherwise known as, the pom-pom to make when you don’t have time to make a pom-pom!

The secret is in the yarn, big thick chunky “bulky” yarn.  This’ll take about five minutes, max!

So: start with something like a small book, or a stiff card, or pamphlet or something.  Wind yarn around it, over and over, until a nice thickish wadge of windings has been built up.

IMG_7773Cut through all thicknesses, top and bottom.
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Take a piece of thinner yarn, wrap it once around the middle bit and tie it in a nice, very tight knot.  Wound it back around to the other side and tie another knot.  Wind it around just a few more times, again; tie a knot.  Super tight.  No such thing as too tight.

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Fluff it out, and done!  Any strandy, uneven bits can be trimmed off neatly, or you can just leave it as a bit, messy, floppy thing. Which is pretty cute too, I reckon  😉

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Use the tails of yarn to tie it on to the top of the beanie

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Later edit: I managed to get some photos of my recipients, modelling their beanies  🙂

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Christmas mignardises

 

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So, every year I make something small to give to close friends and family for Christmas, sometimes a Christmas ornament, sometimes a sweet treat to eat.   This year, I decided on eatables; mini Christmas-pudding mignardises.  Cute, non?

The idea and the details are probably not new but I did adapt from several sources, so I thought I’d compile here my method for making them…

First up, the Christmas cake

My standard fruit cake recipe,  given to me by my old friend V yonks ago, I’ve been using it ever since.  It’s a nice boiled fruitcake, very moist, so a good choice for making the cake-balls.  I doubled up the ingredients to make two fruit cakes, and this plus one quantity of rum buttercream icing should make approximately 140 bite-sized balls, if you don’t eat any in the meantime  😉

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Pineapple boiled fruit cake:  (these quantities are for one cake, double this quantity is required for the remainder of the method)

Tip the following ingredients into a saucepan:

450g can crushed pineapple, drained but reserving a little of its juice just in case
125g butter
375g mixed fruit
1 cup sugar
1 tsp mixed spice
1 tsp bicarb f soda
pinch salt (optional)

Boil, stirring, for 10 min, if it starts to stick stir in just a splash of reserved juice.  Allow to cool, then add:

1 cup self-raising four
1 cup plain flour
2 eggs

Mix in well.  Again, if it seems too thick, add a dash of reserved juice.
21cm square cake tin, 160C for about 40 min or until cooked, leave for 5min in tin, remove to cool completely

As mentioned, this quantity makes just one cake, for this method double up to make two.  Once the cakes are cooled completely it’s time to make the balls…

Now; you’re forming the cake into balls using buttercream icing as the binding agent… I found my basic recipe on taste.com but to impart a festive Christmas-sy flavoured air to them I substituted a large dollop of rum in lieu of some of the milk.  If you don’t want the alcohol just use all milk and no rum, or just a dash of rum essence, for the flavour.  I found this quantity to be enough for the two cakes, so halve this quantity if you’ve only made one cake.

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Rum buttercream icing:

125g butter
500g icing sugar
4 tblsp rum + 2 tblsp milk

Cream butter until smooth.  Stir in about 1 cup of sifted icing sugar.  Add rum + milk and mix.  Stir in the remainder of the sifted icing sugar, beating well until smooth.

It starts to dry out straightaway, so use immediately!

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I rolled the balls, half a cake at a time,because it’s kinda messy work and this was all I can handle, but whatever works for the individual of course.  Anyway, break off a sizeable piece of cake that you can handle and crumble into a large pan.  The pieces should be fairly small and crumb-y, but obviously there are going to be some chunky fruity bits, don’t worry too much about a very superfine consistency.  To half a cake worth of cake crumbs, add a quarter of the rum buttercream icing and knead and mix it in thoroughly with your hands, then take about a tablespoon at a time, or bite-sized pieces, roll the mixture into balls.  No doubt about it, this is messy work, best not pick a day you’ve just had a manicure; although I will say that the butter etc all over your hands impart beautifully soft skin afterwards!  When rolled, push them into the bench ever so gently so they have a little flat base, so they can stand upright without toppling over.

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Decorating:
I found this quantity of cake to require:

650g white chocolate
400g glace cherries

Melt chocolate in three of four batches for ease of handling, and either dip the balls or drizzle over the cakes, so as to look like custard or brandy sauce as it’s poured over Christmas pudding.  Push half a glace cherry on the top or use other glace fruit, if preferred.

Done!  Keep them in the fridge until required.  They can go individually in mini-patty pans to give away, or not, because I think they look pretty cute all by themselves!

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Festive and delicious! good for an after-dinner treat and they go very nicely with a morning cuppa too, ahem.  I hope the family enjoys them!  🙂

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a Japanese indigo dress

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 I’ve made another Yoshimi dress  🙂
Pattern: Vogue 2900.  This pattern will always be in my head the
vogue2900“Yoshimi dress” since her versions are all very inspiring to me, and as well, the lovely Yoshimi herself personally recommended it for me, so there you go.
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Fabric; linen, which I bought as plain white from Potters Textiles and then dyed real indigo, by which I mean using a real live, actual Japanese indigo plant-based dye pot!  Yup, how awesome is that? I feel so very fortunate to have been given the chance to use Japanese indigo dye, since it’s quite a rare beast in WA.  Growing the plant itself is very difficult here, and yes, I have tried and experienced a personal fail myself in that area… *represses sob*
Anyway, a few months ago, Nicki got together a group of us Perth girlies to go on a fun day out… and what constitutes a fun day out for the likes of us self-dressmakers more that a sartorially related, hands-on, “doing” thing!  And what’s more hands-on than dyeing your own fabric in a real indigo dye vat?!  This dye-vat is the work of the ultra talented and creative Trudi Pollard of Pollard Design Studio.  Visiting Trudi’s studio in Bedfordale and viewing her many amazing creations is quite the inspiring and very humbling experience.  Some of her exquisite textile art can be viewed at the studio’s site here.
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 I pre-washed my linen twice before the day but was hoping/aiming for just a touch-but-not-too-much blotchiness/unevenness; that lovely natural patina, you know.  It worked out just spot-on how I wanted!
Construction notes: the seam lines in this pattern are lovely and interesting to my eyes and I wanted to highlight them somehow… the first time I made it up I made black cotton edging strips and this time I wanted to do something a bit different, to differentiate it from that dress in my wardrobe.  Now, what does one think of when you think of indigo cotton? well for me Levi jeans are pretty high on the list.  And Levi jeans have that very distinctive double orange topstitching allover, so I went with that as inspiration.  It’s a lot more visually subtle than the black edging, but it’s there, and I really like it!
I had a look online to learn more about the origin of that orange topstitching, and interestingly enough, the reason for it was to go with the copper rivets that were used to strengthen jeans!  Hmmm no copper rivets on my dress, whoops.  Oh well!
I took great care to make sure those diagonal seam lines ended on the exact point and also put in a few little orange bar tacks on other random sewing junctions, for fun.  I know, you can barely see them on the far-away pictures, but up close and personal I think they add a bit of interest to the dress.
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The invisible zip saga… to sum it up, there was not a colour match even halfway acceptable!  I chose a light blue and after inserting, just very carefully touched up the more visible bits of the zip tape with a felt-tip pen.  This may or may not wash out over time, in which case I can always just touch it up again.
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Then the pale blue zip pull was still too glaringly pale for my liking too; so I painted it coppery-orange with nail varnish, custom mixed using a few different colours from the small army of nail varnish bottles that live in my bathroom drawer.  I knew all those funny colours would come in handy again some day!
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Insides; all raw edges were overlocked with white thread, and I used white thread in the bobbin too, for continuity.  I know; it’s not like anyone will ever see inside the dress, but to have it all looking cohesive is still a very satisfying sight to me.
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So, that’s it, done and dusted!  Now to continue with the small mountain of Christmas-related tasks I’ve lined up for myself and been busily and secretively working away on like a squirrel.  I feel like I’ve been racing around like a crazy scatterbrained whirlwind lately.  Crisis point not yet reached, but getting there…
Later dudes!
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Details:
Dress; Vogue 2900, in indigo dyed linen, with orange top-stitching
Sandals; from the oppie, yonks ago
Sunnies; ma RayBan wayfarers
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palest grey/green set

A new lingerie set…
Patterns; bra is the Watson, by cloth habit; the longline version, and the ultra-cute knickers; which appear superficially like ginormous granny-knickers on the flat but seriously, they’re adorable on! are Tanga, a free pattern downloadable from Burda.
Fabrics; I’ve wanted an all-lace set and bought this lovely green lace aaaaaages ago, gathered all the bits and bobs and cut out the pieces; and then we were going away, I shoved the whole shebang in a bag and forgot about it.  Doh!  Imagine my delight when recently I found it again…  woot! I got cracking and finished it off.
Palest of the pale, grey/green lace, white shoulder strap elastic, rings and sliders; Homecraft Textiles.  Picot elastic, beige jersey lining; Fabulous Fabrics.  Satin ribbon; scraps found in stash, as old as the hills.

Thoughts; so this is my second Watson bra, the first longline … I LOVE the look of it, well duh, LAAAACE!!!  so that’s a plus.  A surprise downside is the much wider hook and eye closure is SO MUCH HARDER for me to do up and undo.  I didn’t expect that! but probably should have… the thing is; I’ve only ever used a two hook closure up until now, meaning that it’s second nature to me and my hands automatically operate the 2-hooks easily and breezily.  A 3-hook is like a whole new brain pattern which my hands have never learned and I’m fumbling away, almost like I’ve never worn a bra before in my life… well, you know what they say about old dogs and new tricks.  I’m tempted to think that for a soft, longline style like this I might even prefer my funny, basic little pull-on camisole bralette, simple and easy, save myself the trouble and expense of the hook and eye closure and the style still works perfectly fine for my likes and meagre needs.
I’m still going to wear this new set to bits obviously! just an observation.

previous Watson bra

Also, the back elastics; with the Watson you’re supposed to commence sewing them horizontally along the back from the centre back and they continue on, curving up and over the shoulders to become the shoulder straps, as pictured above.  Now I don’t know if anyone else has come up with this problem too; but when I’m wearing it, the elastic does not sit flat against your body, but instead “folds” around the corner and so forms a little lumpy bump as it does so.  These bumps can just be seen in the above picture, at the sharpest point of the curve where it starts being a strap.  It’s a small thing but a little annoying nonetheless.  SO, for this version I cut and sewed the back elastic and shoulder strap elastic on as two separate pieces.  Not quite as smart looking, but the bump problem is solved so I’m not stressing over it.

The last time I made Tanga undies I discovered what a bad bad bad idea it was to situate a longitudinal seam in the crotch area … worst design concept, evah! anyway, I wrote about how I fixed that first pair by cutting out a new, seamless crotch using the liner piece.  SO MUCH BETTER, and I did the same for this pair too.  I cut two lengths of 5mm elastic to be 10% shorter than the side edges and zig-zagged it along the edges, between the lace and beige jersey liner.  I know from experience that this is about 1000000 times more comfortable than to do it like the pattern tells you.

I used beige jersey to line the bra cups and knickers liner as well as to partially line inside the front of the knickers.  This was cut using my rotary cutter to achieve sharp and clean-cut edges, and is simply zig-zagged down inside the lace.  This stuff is a very good match to my skin colour so it was such a great find!  Note to self; remember to keep checking Fabulous Fabrics to see if they get any more in stock…
Having a lining also helps to hide the seams, because I treated it like an underlining; the lace/linings seams are inside the garments and not between the layers.   I LOVE having the neatest insides possible but sometimes you just have to sacrifice the insides for the outsides, haha.
I know, weird, right?  Who even does that?!!

felled seams inside (L) undies and (R) bra cups

I faux-felled all the seams on the inside, by stitching them down lightly and trimming the raw edges close to the stitching.  This is not as neat overall than if they were sandwiched between the layers but looks much better from the right side, with no seam allowances visible through the holes of the lace.
To stabilise the cup edges, I stitched short lengths of satin ribbon along the jersey edge inside.

 

btw; that is the stock picture of the Tanga knickers above right.  It makes me slightly anxious every time I look at it… however don’t let the non-pattern matching distract you, this is a cute pattern which is free and available to all; and that’s the important thing here!

Now for some housekeeping… dk’s wife, could you please email me regarding the hedgehog pattern? thanks.  🙂
Also, I’ve received lots of emails from kind readers letting me know that commenting is working only rarely on my blog… I’m so sorry!  🙁  Like everyone, I love comments! so please know, I am working on a site update to fix the problem.  It may take a short while though since I’m a complete computer dummy, but I am on it!

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jingle bells

Yes, my new shirtdress literally does have bells on it.  The gold buttons are mini jingle bells, the type you put on cutesie wootsie Christmas decorations.  Whimsical and impractical although many of my sewing/knitting choices may be though, jingle-bells are just kinda… hmmm well the jury’s still out.  See, I just had my heart absolutely set on small rounded gold buttons and this was pretty much it.  I love the festivity of them and am clearly all set up to do Christmas Day with fabulous, jingly panache, but have fears that the relentlessly cheerful chirpy tingalingalinging will become a tad annoying in the interim, and not just to me but to the long-suffering souls who move in and about in my everyday orbit.  So I have not at this stage ruled out carefully injecting a blob of superglue into the opening of each jingle bell, to anchor the ringer thingie to the inside and restore peace and tranquility unto the world.
Glue is on standby and at the ready…

but pretty, non?

Fabric: a very fine coral floral silk georgette from Fabulous Fabric, the very last on the roll.  I bought it using a voucher given to me for my birthday by my dear friends; whom I’ve been meeting every week since our children were in the early school years…  They know my strange predilection for self-dressmaking so very well!  I also bought some ivory crepe; with which I made the slip to go under this dress, and which I also used for the button placket, the cuffs and the collar stand.  Jingle bells were also from Fabulous Fabrics.

I’m so relieved I had the foresight to make a separate slip to wear under this sheer dress, rather than an attached lining… why? because when I go to hang the clothes on the clothesline I’ve found this to happen…

Hmmm, see; the slip, being sleeveless, does not ride up when you lift your arms up over your head, of course.  Just yet another reason to keep a healthy collection of nice slips and petticoats handy in the lingerie drawer.  I have about four hardworking slips currently in rotation and just lately I’m seriously considering increasing the population, particularly since some of the oldies are getting… well, old.  Maybe even double that number wouldn’t be too many.  Slips, seems such a quaint and old-fashioned thing, yeah? the kind of ladylike frippery my grandmother loved and would buy for my birthdays etc and that seemed unnecessary and even rather fuddyduddy-ish to my much younger, more foolish self.  Now I am wearing them.  Am I getting old?  Hmmm, no need to answer that!

arms in regular position, all is well

Pattern: Burda 05/2010;111, a shirtdress pattern I’ve used twice before, a plaid shirtdress and a lace version; with sleeves adapted from another Burda pattern, 05-2010-101.  I’ve used this same sleeve pattern also twice before on different, other Burda patterns; my black Pirate shirt and my pale blue silk shirt.  This is that same sleeve but cut shorter and with a shorter cuff to compensate for being a shorter sleeve.
I chose to leave off the pockets, and the collar and just have the collar stand, I felt this lends a slightly more feminine look to a shirt, goes better with all that girly pink floral explosion that’s already going on in there.

Construction notes: I went with all French seams throughout of course, silk georgette kinda demands those sorts of standards! being sheer and all high quality and all.  Only the armscye seams I overlocked the raw edges to finish.  In a shirting cotton or linen I would flat fell the armscye seam like so, but silk georgette just does not lend itself to that level of tailoring.
Collar, button placket and cuff facing were hand fell-stitched to secure them; I wished for no top-stitching to sully that clean-finished, pristine crepe!  In my opinion, topstitching makes a shirt look a lot more casual and maybe a little masculine? whereas absence of top-stitching keeps a thing looking polished and, somehow feminine.  I know, that’s kinda irrational and I cannot logically explain why I have that masculine/feminine impressions of topstitching, but there it is.
The hem is hand-rolled and stitched, and I did the same technique as I did for my slip, with stay-stitching.  I hemmed this before I hemmed the matching slip, to get the right length for both, but it’s taken me this long to finish all the other little details and get out and take photographs of it.
And I also wanted to wait for its first outing to be a day on which I would be meeting all my friends to show it to them, and simultaneously an appropriately weather-ed day, nice enough to wear it! it’s taken a while for those two things to coincide.  Today was that day! hurrah!

Details:
Dress; Burda 05-2010-111, Burda 05-2010-101 sleeves, floral silk georgette with ivory crepe detailing, my original review of this pattern here
Slip (under); the Ruby slip, pattern by pattern scissors cloth, ivory crepe, details here

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