November 2020 - Handmade by Carolyn

madder and madder…

30/11/2020 11:19 pm \ 13 Comments \ Carolyn

I made a dress, using this very precious piece of fabric that I have been too frightened to cut in to for years now … ok so I’ve just checked back and it first came into my life back in August 2015, FIVE YEARS AGO!! well it’s about well overdue that I made it up, hey…

So what is this, hmmm? well I did a fantastic one day, natural dyeing workshop with Niji iro Kitta during which I dyed a length of pure white linen with natural madder root. They had two options; you could either choose to dye with madder, or indigo. I (obviously) chose madder, the natural dyestuff from the root of rubia tinctoria and since I later got a chance to also dye with natural indigo too, I’m so glad I chose madder this time! I went along with Nicki (this is moonlight), Sue (fadanista) and Megan (meggipeg), and first posted about it here…

It was heaps of fun! I remember our fabric had been soaked in soya water and dried first, which apparently helps the dye “take” thoroughly. Before dyeing, we had to embroider our initials or something marking the fabric as “yours” in some way. I did mine in red thread; and when it came time to cut out my dress, I carefully made sure to cut around and save the corner with my initials. And rather than use one of my usual labels I stitched the little square of linen featuring my embroidery inside as a sort of reminder of the day.

I used Vogue 2900 to make my dress… I’ve used this pattern twice before and I really love it! I think it’s all of comfortable, elegant, classy and beautiful too… I mostly made it just about exactly as per the instructions, topstitching all the seams with matching thread. I think my only difference was leaving off the pocket facings because I had enough fabric to simply cut the pocket piece and lining also from the self-fabric linen. I also had enough fabric for a mask!

Hmmm, I wonder if we’ll ever need to wear these here? I could be making all these masks for nothing! I guess we’ll have to wait and see. I sure have nothing against wearing one. Also, I know I sound like a broken record, but again we are so lucky to have no community transmission of the virus here. So lucky! for now!

I finished all the raw edges inside with red overlocking thread, and used a red invisible zip in the CB seam. The natural madder root produces a colour that I would describe as more of a coppery pinky-orange rather that a red actually… and I really like the red inner workings inside against this colour, I think it’s a really pretty contrasting feature. Of course a pretty contrasting feature that no one is every going to see, haha. I mean, that’s ok, because who do we do this for but ourselves anyway, hmm? Exactly.

This is the eleventh thing in my list of 12 things I was going to make this year, from the 12 fabrics I nominated as well… hurrah!

I have just one thing left on the list, and I think I’m going to be able to manage it. And I love this dress! I adore the colour, and the style is right up my alley, so I’m so happy Yoshimi recommended the pattern to me all those years ago. 🙂

Details:

Dress; Vogue 2900, madder dyed linen
Mask; using this tutorial
Sandals; super old, from an oppy… I love these and really really need to replace them!

I propped up my phone in a tree and snapped a quick picture on our walk, even though it’s a bit blurry… oh well!

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: Clara, dress, dyeing, natural dyeing, Vogue 2900

separated Cissy… and it’s green

27/11/2020 11:14 am \ 8 Comments \ Carolyn

Seems like a bit of a non-sequitur, but kinda sums up the whole process actually. Let me explain…

So I set out to make another Homer and Howells Cissy dress for myself because I was so pleased with the rust lace one that I’d made first off the block. This is back in April by the way, back when we were in a lockdown of sorts here in Perth, when we were all terrified of the virus and didn’t know as yet that there was no community transmission here. Yes, I do indeed know how very lucky we are! and it’s fantastic that everyone here is working hard to keep things that way too… but I digress!

I needed a sewing project!

I had some khaki-olive-blue-grey, slightly crinkly cotton in my stash that Mum had chucked my way, when she cleaned out her own stash, and it was just enough to cut out the Cissy pieces. Awesome! It was meant to be! However when I put it together I was just like…. blah. I think when you’re feeling anxious and depressed then your soul cries out for cheer and vibrancy, or even just strength, even in colour form; and drab colours just kinda drag you down … however at the time I determined a waist was what was needed. So I proceeded to cut a straight waistband from the scant remains of fabric, miraculously I had a strip just long enough! I took off the bodice and skinny-hemmed it, making a cute little loose crop top. I the sliced up the centre back of the skirt and inserted an invisible zip, re-folded the skirt pleats into my new waistband, and stitched on a button. Ok! I thought. This is going to be great!

ORIGINAL COLOUR… yeah it’s not awful, I guess

It lay in my wardrobe during winter and I was anticipating a lot of wear once the warm weather hit… and when I did my rainbow week mini-challenge I thought it would be my “green” ensemble… I frocked up and took a few photos, a sample of which is below, and man, at that moment the not-greenness of the whole thing just killed me, so it did not feature in that week after all. I still thought the ensemble had promise and I was on a mission to save it now! I wanted GREEN! I had to wait until Spotlight had restocked its dye supplies but finally they came in. And into the ~~spa~~ dye-pot it went!

looked terrible in this light!…

I used a whole pack of Rit Kelly green, and I very happy with it now, I think the strong colour is just what it, or maybe I – needed! The crop top is very cropped, and I have to be careful about lifting my arms up too high, and I’m planning next to make some pretty little lace camisoles to wear underneath.
Watch this space!

Details:

Top and skirt; from the Homer & Howells Cissy pattern, old cotton, overdyed by me
Caramel sandals; super old, originally from an op shop. I need to replace these, desperately!

Green turtleneck: modified Closet Core pattern Nettie in green merino
Black tights; my own design, black stretch poly
Black booties, from Zomp boutique

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: cissy dress, dress, dyeing, homer and howells, own design, skirt, top

limoncello

23/11/2020 11:11 pm \ 8 Comments \ Carolyn

I originally bought this fabric simply because it reminded me of limoncello; specifically limoncello partaken after a long day hiking thr0ugh the delightfully bucolic Italian countryside… yes of course it is indeed that most wonderful variety of fabric; souvenir fabric! I bought it in Rome, in the famous Fratelli Basetti Tessuti back in 2012, after our hiking holiday… it is a most gorgeously crisp linen in a sharp, warm, citrusy yellow with the skinniest white pinstripes. I have used a small piece of it previously to make one of my Perth dresses, and so I have learnt that this gorgeous colour unfortunately runs like the the wind! My Perth dress started out yellow and ended up basically beige eventually. Sad, but true. It’s ok though because I’m perfectly fine with giving it a refreshing new dye-bath when the time comes.

The pattern is the FibreMood Feliz. I have to admit I was a little suspicious of how very long the skirt is! and was initially dead set on shortening it just about immediately, but actually? I kind of like it like this. The Feliz has some nice features, specifically I like the curved back yoke and the flat, narrow collar; and I love how the workman-like vibe of those rolled up sleeves clashes stylistically with an almost impractically long skirt. Not that the skirt is really “impractical” in a real life sense but you know what I mean. I’m going to give it a good fair go before thinking about shortening it anyway.

Changes; just a few very minor tiny things.. Because the sleeves are worn rolled up most of the time, I decided to do a flat-felled seam finish on the sleeve seams, The seam allowances are only 1cm so this was a tiny bit tricky! but definitely worth it.

So, here’s a slightly funny thing…. see how the back bodice of my dress pictured below curves down to the side seams? well the pattern piece, below right, is most definitely shaped just to do just this, however, the line drawings of the dress do not show this downward curve. Mmmm…

I made the back yoke double layered and utilised the burrito method to get a perfectly neat finish on the inside. This meant I could also add one of my labels without visible stitching showing on the outside, which is nice 🙂

The slimline, stamped brass buttons are so lovely, I got these from Fabulous Fabrics. I’ve actually used these twice before, for this olive shirt, and this blue shirtdress, now a shirt too. I know I shouldn’t ever be using the same buttons, you should find different ones. But you know when you’re perusing the button selection and you see they still have that super cute button you’ve used before… and you know you’re being predictable and unadventurous but basically one knows a good thing when one sees it and in the end why fight it.

Details:

Dress, Fibre Mood Feliz, in lemon-yellow pinstriped linen from Italy
Tights, made by me here
Booties; nylon from Zomp shoes

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: daily outfit, dress, feliz, fibre mood, pattern review

Cap Ferrat and Myosotis

06/11/2020 8:16 am \ 6 Comments \ Carolyn

The funny thing was; I knew I was going to like this dress because the fabric is just so utterly divine, the pattern that I was a little hmmm about…? but I’m completely in love with the end result so all’s well that ends very very well!

So, fabric first… this is a cotton lawn from Storrs of London. It is described as a 100% Egyptian Superfine cotton lawn, and it is, as already mentioned; DIVINE. It has the exact same feel and hand, and gentle light crispness as Liberty… although diehard Liberty aficionados might come for me, but that’s just my honest opinion! This particular design is Cap Ferrat, and I honestly struggled to choose just one because there are so many breathtakingly lovely colours and prints to peruse. I absolutely have to get some more for a shirt for Craig… or maybe just another piece for myself hmmm hehe…

The pattern, this is the popular Deer and Doe Myosotis dress, of which I’ve seen more lovely versions than I can mention! I actually bought the pattern two years ago, and it’s taken me this long to finally get around to it, which is a little embarrassing, huh. I dunno, I’ve just been busy. #weddings Anyway, I’ve always liked the style and thought this gorgeous print would look nice in the style. And it does!

So like I said, I did have reservations about it though… as I shall now address. The bust darts on this thing are FIERCE. I think it really is intended for a far more busty lady than myself, to be honest and was quite worried I was going to end up with the dreaded deflated balloon look on my chest. I debated whether to tone them down, perhaps to redraft the front to be a more gentle princess seam or something. Eventually I did reduce the darts a bit but still went for the double darted style as designed, and while the front is still a wee bit flooffy on me I don’t think it’s too bad. For a future version I will definitely tone them down even more though.

Everything else about the style I love, though. The sleeves are super lovely, and I completely adore the gently V neckline too, and even the gathered skirts are beautifully proportioned and look very on-trend to my eyes.

It does feel quite short on me! and I even made the hem a teensy bit longer, and hemmed as narrow as I could. Probably best to avoid touching my toes in public… but I do think the style is super cute though, so I’m happy. Cute and flirty and fun and perfect for summer. Everyone needs a sweet little red dress for summer! 🙂

Normally I find gathering to be a pain in the neck, but this crisp, very lightweight cotton took to it beautifully. Yes, I can’t believe I’m saying this, but the gathering was actually a dream. You know how some fabrics are just a delight to work with, from the very beginning of a project to the end? Well that’s exactly what this stuff is. Just pure joy. In case it wasn’t obvious, I can highly recommend!

I also whipped up a quick mask! Haha, I felt extremely self conscious wearing this! even though I was all by myself taking these photos, apart from Clara; see, we are extremely lucky so far here in Western Australia that our hard border closure has ensured we have no community cases of covid-19, so basically no one is wearing masks yet; but I think we’re not kidding themselves that we will never get cases here. I think it’s inevitable, eventually. Anyway, I do carry one of my masks around in my bag all the time, and I thought it would be fun to whip up a matching one for this dress … I’ve seen so many cute matching masks from other makers on instagram! I lined it with red poplin, leftover from one I’d made for Craig’s Mum, and cut strips off an already partially cut-up old free Wildcats T-shirt for the straps.

So, funny story… I know it’s not obvious in my pictures here, but… did you notice my footwear?!! SO I got dressed in the morning, in a hurry, because my days are packed solid at the moment and I just grabbed my thongs, shoved them on my feet and was off. I took some photos of my new dress for my blog here, did some work, and then at lunchtime took myself and Clara off to the beach for our walk. And only much later did I suddenly noticed my feet. LOL!