Army shirt (not really…)

… but my interpretation of a sorta military look.
I love khaki and all muddy colours, and felt a khaki/muddy/sludgy coloured shirt would be just the thing; and once the military mindset had taken a hold on me it wasn’t long before vaguely uniform-y style details starting sneaking onto my new shirt too…
I used Burda 7767 again (and yes, this is version fifteen of this pattern that I was referring to in the rogue’s gallery of Burda 7767 here).
I added a few little touches; some shoulder tabs, held down with a decorative strip, sleeve tabs to keep those sleeves in place when pushed up halfway up my forearm just how I like it…  The bottom hem is curved.  The pockets have a folded bizzo down the centre front which is top-stitched in place, and I squared off the lower pocket corners.  This shape is echoed in the pocket flaps.  I also folded back the button band to the outside so I could get that look of a separate band, rather than that smooth look you get when it is turned to the inside, although this played havoc with my usual method of neatly finishing the button-band hem edge I worked it out OK in the end.

These buttons are fabulous, aren’t they?  I used 16 to finish this shirt, and if I could have invented ways of sneaking a few extra in here somehow then I probably would have!  They are brass, and are stamped to look somewhat like an ancient Chinese or ancient Roman coin.  Or something like that… am even vaguely toying with the idea of going back to Fabulous Fabrics and buying up every single one of them.  But mustn’t be greedy, must play nice and leave some for others now…  ðŸ™‚
And take a sqizz at my new label! (thank you so much to my good friend Yoshimi who helped me to get these adorable things!  You have my unending gratitude!)  I LOVE them!  And I feel about them a bit like Elaine from Seinfeld when she found out her favourite contraceptive sponge had been discontinued, and she only had a limited supply left, and she then had to judge each new man she met on whether he was “sponge-worthy”.  Now I have to judge each new garment I make as to whether it is label-worthy or not.  I think my new shirt is label-worthy… What do you think?

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767 with modifications, dark khaki linen
Skirt; my own design; charcoal knit stuff
Tights; Spencer & Lacy
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes
Sunnies; RayBan

(and for those wondering if I had traced off this much used-pattern, lest it get all tattered and torn, I am using the original tissue every time and it is in pretty good nick still, see?  I take very good care of my patterns!)

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Crocheted Granny-squares skirt

I crocheted a skirt!  Yup, a whole skirt…. almost can’t believe it myself, since crochet is not my forte.
Now I was initially inspired by Jo Sharp’s Hexagon skirt, but have discovered this new-wave trend was set by Australian designers Romance was Born in their whimsical Spring/Summer 2009 collection, itself inspired by the crocheted granny-square rugs of the 1960’s and 1970’s.
I really love it! it’s so warm and cosy, and I love the unexpected jolt of seeing so-unhip-it’s-actually-kinda-hip granny-squares in a wearable item.  I think it is fun and funky; when I first posted my plans for this skirt I did get a comment that “these are everywhere right now” but I haven’t seen a single one out and about around where I live, so I guess the trend hasn’t caught on in Perth yet.  I feel happily unique so far.
Viva les granny-square!

 

Details:
Skirt; crocheted to my own design using Jo Sharp yarns, my pattern below
Top; Sexy Woman, found second hand
Tights; Voodoo
Shoes; Misano from Labels boutique

(at left, Jo Sharp’s Hexagon skirt; at right from Romance was Born Spring/Summer 2009)

I wrote down the pattern I used to make my own skirt if anyone is interested in making one too.  There are multiple small variations on the crocheted granny-square.  I trialled several different variations before settling on this one, but a granny-square is a granny-square is a granny-square really…

Crocheted Granny-Squares Skirt:

6 balls of coloured 8ply yarn
I used Jo Sharp  Classic DK Wool; 3 “greenish” shades (Glade, Lichen and Orchard), and 3 “reddish” shades (Brocade, Scarlet and Nasturtium)
3 balls of Black 8ply yarn
3.5mm crochet hook  *
3.5mm round needle  *
(*warning, I am an extremely loose knitter and crocheter, and a “normal” person would probably use a needle/hook 3 sizes bigger…)

Abbreviations:
ch; chain
tr; treble stitch (US double)
sl st; slip stitch

Using colour 1, ch 6, join with a slip stitch in the 1st chain to make a ring.
ch3, tr x2 into ring, (ch 3, tr x3 into ring) 3 times; ch 3.  Sl st into top of 3 ch at beginning, end wool.
Join 2nd colour into corner:
ch3, tr x2, ch 2, tr x3; (ch 2, tr x3 into next corner, ch2 tr x3 into same corner) 3 times,  ch 2, sl st into top of first ch 3 in this colour, end wool.
Using black, join into corner:
ch 3, tr x2 into corner , ch 2, tr x3 into same corner, ch 2; ( tr x3 into side, ch2, tr x3, ch 2, tr x 3 into next corner, ch 2, tr x3 into same corner, ch2) 3 times; ch 2, tr x3 into next side, ch 2, join with a sl st into top of first black ch 3, end wool.

Voila! you have a little granny square!

How many you need to make depends on the size of your granny-squares, your own hip measurement and how long you want your skirt to be; this is an individual requirement.
I made 78, having one “green” and one “red” shade in each one, and alternating to have equal-ish numbers of each variation. Then overstitched them together to make a tube of 6 x 13 squares.
Then using a 3.5mm round needle, I picked up 92 stitches around the top (as a guide, 7 in each square and then 1 extra in the last),
K 15 rows in the round in black.
Row 16; (K4, K 2 tog) rep until you get to the last 2 st, K2  (78 st)
K 15 rows.
Cast off, veeeeery loosely (otherwise you won’t be able to fit the skirt over your hips!)
Take a piece of 2mm black elastic cut to fit your waist, and weave it in and out through the stitches in the second to top row, then machine zig-zag the ends together firmly.

The beauty of this is that it has no front or back, so there is less chance of developing a “seat” by sitting in the skirt the same way every time.  It can just be swivelled around any which way.  And since it is all wool and crocheted, it can be reshaped after laundering, if necessary.

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Double wedding ring quilt

So, to the penultimate in my quilting output…
I have only one more quilt in my repertoire after this but I will have to make an appointment to go and visit that one…
However, this one is far dearer to my heart anyway; it was made for our own bed and Craig chose the fabrics.  It was made during 1995, and was probably just about the only thing I managed to make in that year.
I used a book which gave a very quick piecing technique for the “rings”; you cut all the coloured patterned pieces in long strips, then joined the strips together lengthwise to make a piece with six rows of your different fabrics.  Then you cut this piece of fabric into strips the other way.  So you had a whole bunch of strips of squares joined together… Then you just resewed each seam with a small diagonal new seam adjustment, going from no adjustment to a few millimetres; bingo, you had all these perfectly proportioned curves.  The book had a table in it, depending on the size “rings” you were making. It was so much easier than I imagine if you had to cut out all those little patches to be just the exact right size from scratch…  This bit, and piecing the whole top together probably only took a few days.  Then for the quilting… 
quilting…
quilting…
about a year later…  
No, not the fastest quilter on the block, for sure! (oh, I should mention here that it is quilted entirely by hand… by me, natch)
The quilt is edged with bias binding that I made from the same red cotton as in the 4-corner bizzoes.  It was attached by machine, and then handstitched in place over to the back.  The quilt measures 190cm x 190 cm (6’4″ x 6’4″)
It’s a bit old-fashioned for today’s sensibilities and we don’t have it on our bed any more.  But it is stored away for posterity.

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Scrumpled leggings

Ta da!  Scrumpled leggings!  You like?  I do!
And I think they fit in very nicely with my current seasonal aim of dressing to suit the natural colours and textures of my environment…
I know this is not a new look.  In fact I had a vague sense of deja vu when I first popped on my new scrumpled leggings… and went off to check, sure enough, here are some Comme des Garcons leggings from 2005 that I can remember being quite interested in when I first spied them in a Vogue magazine.  Yup six years ago… back then I wasn’t into making my own leggings, thinking they would be way too hard.  Little did I realise then how easy leggings are to make!  Also this kind of raaather avant garde stuff never ever ever appeared in a store here so I never bought some for myself.  Perth is kinda sleepy, you see.  Fashion-wise we are slowly waking up, but Harajuku we are not…
Speaking of, when Cassie and I had our fun day out with Yoshimi and Novita in Tokyo, as we parted ways Yoshimi pointed us in the direction of the Mitsukoshi department store, where we had a fabulous eye-opening hour or so oohing and aahing over fashion the likes of which are almost unknown around here. Unknown that is apart from some very expensive European clothing in certain boutiques…  Anyhoo Cassie found a pair of scrumpled leggings like these, and we thought they were so fun and different we bought some.  You’re wondering why I didn’t buy any for myself? well the leggings situation in Tokyo is the same as the shoes situation, if you are taller than 5’6 or have larger than a size 38 shoe, then forget about it
But scrumpled leggings had entered my radar once more…
And recently shams posted about a pair of leggings than she described as “pooled” because they ended up so long, and she liked them that way so left them long.  I liked them that way too.. and thus fully re-awakened my latent desire for a pair of scrumpled leggings…
Super easy.
I used my own pattern that I drafted to fit me, but cut the legs pieces to have about an extra 20cm length from the ankle down, and in a less tapered shape than I had drafted for a tight legging, probably by about 1-2cm wider at the ankle point.  Sorry, inexact measurements I know,the truth is I was kinda winging it…
After sewing up the inner leg seams (simply whizzed on the serger in a matter of seconds!) I cut two roughly 27cm lengths of 6mm elastic.  These were zig-zagged to the inside of the inner leg seam from just below my knee level down to 2cm from the bottom.  Then I just hemmed the lower edge as normal by folding up the lower leg edge by 1cm twice to sit over the elastic and zig-zagged the hem.

(Comme des Garcons leggings at right, image from Vogue Australia Sept 2005, photo by Willy Vanderperre)

Details:
Leggings; my own design, beige knit stuff, from my own tutorial of making your own custom fit leggings here
Top; Ezibuy
Dress; drafted from “Pattern Magic” by Tomoko Nakamichi, of charcoal wool mix, details here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

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Spring has sprung!

Ok, OK, so I know we aren’t supposed to even mention the S word until the 1st September but look at this floral fabulousness popping up all around!  I took all these photos here on my walkies this morning…
and obviously when those first tender buds of spring start to burst forth into colourful pretty profusion a woman’s thoughts turn inexorably to… her wardrobe.  Well, naturally!  To be honest it doesn’t take much of a push for my thoughts to turn to my wardrobe.
The weather is still a tad cold for flinging off those drab winter-y layers, but I’m getting pretty excited about what to incorporate into my wardrobe for the warmer weather that is creeping in.  I’m thinking my new spring and summer wardrobe will inspired by the colours of an Aussie spring environment, like pictured here.  Thus, a dose of sage greens, ivories and beiges (surprise!), some light dresses in muddy neutrals (surprise!) and I have a few sharp bright colours to throw into the mix as well.  A lot of my plans have been virtuously conceived from doing a thorough recce* of my stash, but I’m not going to completely close my mind to the possibilities of new fabrics and patterns and let’s face it, when have I ever?!  However I will attempt to use just some of the lovely fabrics in my collection that have been too intimidating to cut into.
What about you? Are you making sartorial plans for the changing season; whether it be spring, or autumn for the northern hemispheries?  And where do you take inspiration for your wardrobe plans?
*recce; Aussie slang for reconnaisance, pronounced “reckie”

Details:
Top; Metalicus
Jeans; Burda 7863 modified, purple denim, details here
Scarf; jersey offcut joined with french seam, details here
Sandshoes; Country Road

below; a nesting swan.  She’s been there for a few days, so soon there will be cygnets!
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Oh, this old thing…

… and a few more old creations.  (Don’t worry, these are drawing to an inevitable endpoint, as I go forwards through time and eventually wind up at “now”, at which point these posts will finish and you will be seeing new stuff only…  It’s just that one of the goals I set myself was to document as much as I could of my handmade things in this blog, so bear with me here.  This is a finite process…)
This is our little family (Sam on the way) in more stuff I made; Tim’s (Topkids) overall has been seen before here.  I made my dress, completely inspired by the dress (below) in Beetlejuice, do you remember this?  I basically fell in love with this loose long floral dress and set out to make myself close to an exact copy of it for myself.   Fortuitously it worked well as a maternity dress too.  I felt lucky that dropped waist blouse-y Laura Ashley numbers were quite fashionable during the years I was producing children…
The blue floral dress with lace trim that Cassie is wearing is a TopKids pattern.

Below is a four generation picture; my grandmother, mother, Cassie and me.  Cassie is wearing a dress made to the same pattern as the blue one above.  It is interesting how the very different fabrics used give each dress a completely different feel; this one seems kinda “smart” while the floral and lace above give a far more “pretty and dressy enough for a party” feel, no?  Perhaps this tiny set of two dresses makes up another miniature rogue’s gallery (like yesterday), seeing the different looks you can get from one pattern by varying minor details; in this case the fabric.

This little romper is literally the only thing that I made for my own children and passed on to other little relatives that was returned to me (!) but unfortunately without the little blouse I had made to go with it.  It had a really cute pink blouse to wear underneath, with a Peter Pan collar and full batwing sleeves gathered into elasticated wrists.  The little floral romper here has a zip up the centre front and tabs with pearl snaps on the pockets and shoulder straps.  From TopKids patterns.

Below is a  picture of Tim and Cassie on Tim’s fourth birthday (Sam is around by now, but is not in this picture!)  Cassie is wearing a dress that was truly one of my favourites, out of all that I had made for her!  It was of a lovely floral brushed cotton in very pretty shades of blue, green and violet, and had a sailor collar of soft ivory brushed cotton, around which I topstitched on a pale blue satin ribbon edging to enhance the sailor-y look.  I loved seeing her in this dress…. she looks so pretty, doesn’t she?

Below; I am with Tim and a fairly brand new Sam in a baby sling… Tim is wearing a red-and-white fair isle jumper knitted by my Mum, and I am wearing a blue, turquoise, red and pink cardigan with black and white geckoes that I knitted from a pattern, the details of which are unknown, sorry.  It is knitted entirely in the intarsia method, with each section of colour in each row, in individual balls (ie, that is 15 different balls for some rows…), and is possibly the most complex thing I have ever knitted.  Each row of the pattern was different from each other row, as you can imagine.  Even the two sleeves were different from each other!  The main of the knitting is in stocking stitch, but the red and pink sections are in reverse stocking stitch…  my modern-day me is actually pretty impressed with my olden-day more-patient me.  
I am embarrassed to admit that I went on to lose all appreciation of my own time and effort, and painted the entire interior of a house while wearing this thing, which explains some tiny spots of white paint now adorning the front.  Also it has gone camping with us (and I recall wearing it 24/7 including sleeping in it on one particularly cold camping trip) and it has been a bed-jacket too.  I still have it, but needless to say don’t really wear it anymore.  It has slightly felted, through bad washing.
(Later edit; in reply to some comments, it’s a bit hazy in my memory now but I’m pretty sure I made this before I had little kiddies underfoot… just no pictures!)

below; the wrong side, showing the intarsia method of knitting used…
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Burda 7767; a rogue’s gallery

A while ago, Myrna suggested that I do something about rounding up together in one post the number of variations on a pattern that I have made up; as a sort of “hey, look at the number of different looks you can get from just one pattern” kind of a post.  Thank you, Myrna!
I thought it was a terrific suggestion, as I do re-use favourite patterns a whole bunch of times, probably painfully and boringly so from the point of view of people who like to go for new and exciting patterns with every garment.  But to redeem the boredom of going again and again with the same old same old patterns I usually introduce a little something to a pattern to get slightly different garments each and every time.
One pattern I have used a lot is Burda 7767, a basic men’s shirt pattern.  Now agreed, it’s very basic, and seamstresses after a challenging sew usually avoid basic patterns like the plague.  Advanced seamstresses often prefer to go for something with a few exciting variations or twists already incorporated in it.  But just think, a basic pattern is often the best for playing around with and once you have mastered basic sewing techniques you can introduce your own features.  So much more fun!  I do prefer DIY-ing my own features to being spoon-fed a design; and from the sewing-challenge point of view incorporating your own ideas can be a bigger challenge than even the toughest Vogue Advanced pattern, and you will feel more like an actual “designer” in control of your own ideas.
Most of the shirts I have made from this pattern have been for the menfolk in my life; my husband and my two sons.  OK, I admit I have also made one version for me too, hehe…  and unfortunately men love for their stuff to be kinda unadorned.  But you can still squeeze a few little variations in here and there and as long as it is not too asymmetric or “weird” your menfolk will probably consent to wear it…
So here, without further ado, is my gallery of Burda 7767 (so far…)

The first version: just to the pattern with no bells or whistles, pink linen, navy blue topstitching and navy blue buttons.  I was sewing this one as a birthday surprise so couldn’t do any actual fitting.  It turned out a tad too tight under the arms for Craig, but not to worry, Tim has it in his wardrobe (he is not the kind of guy who feels his masculinity is challenged by a pink shirt) and I have borrowed it tonnes of times too.

Version two; maroon linen, with black contrasting topstitching and buttons.  Variations, a curved pocket flap, curved pocket edges, narrow spaced double rows topstitching.  I’ve also borrowed this one on a few occasions, hehe (it’s a good thing my husband is so generous with his wardrobe, hmmm?)

Version three; blue linen with light brown contrasting topstitching and light brown mottley bone buttons.  Variations, arrowhead pocket flap, curved pocket edges, wider spaced double topstitching.

Version four; for Sam, turquoise and white striped cotton with contrasting navy blue topstitching and navy blue snaps.  Variations; double bias placed breast pockets with arrowhead bias placed pocket flaps, shoulder tabs, inner sleeve tabs (so the sleeves can be rolled up like pictured) and snap closures throughout.

Version five; for Tim, blue, black and white plaid flannelette, with navy topstitching and navy blue snaps.  Variations, pieced pocket pieces (to take advantage of that interesting plaid), bias placed arrowhead pocket flaps. shoulder tabs, inner sleeve tabs and snap closure throughout.

Version six; for Craig, white linen, white topstitching and buttons. Variations; one double welt breast pocket with looped button closure, no collar, curved lower hemline.  Yup, I’ve borrowed this one a tonne too…!

Version seven; (blush) for me…, blue cotton chambray, white topstitching and copper-toned snaps.  Variations, double breast pockets with arrowhead pocket flaps, shoulder tabs and inner sleeve tabs, curved lower hemline.

Version eight; for Craig, navy and white striped cotton, yellow cotton, white topstitching and yellow buttons.  Variations, contrasting fabric for collar stand lining and sleeve cuff lining.  Buttonholes sewn on the diagonal, and grouped together down the buttonband in pairs, curved lower hemline.

Version nine; for Craig, green shot cotton, contrasting yellow topstitching, brown mottley buttons.  Variations, of summer weight cotton, with short sleeves, double curved edge breast pockets, arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.  Did an interesting little triangular cut-out feature thingy on the ends of the sleeves

Version ten; for Tim, beige, black and white irregularly striped “scrunched” cotton, with black topstitching and black snaps.  Variations,  sleeve tabs, motif ironed onto pocket, double breast pockets, curved pocket flaps, snap closure throughout, curved lower hemline.

Version eleven; for Sam, black and white check “scrunched” cotton, black topstitching, silver snaps.  Variations, short sleeves with a little tab with snap closure on the edge of the sleeve hem.  Shoulder tabs with snap closure.  Pocket motif.  Bias cut double breast pockets, bias cut (but the opposite way) arrownhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.

Version twelve; for Craig, blue shot cotton, rusty red topstitching and buttons. Variations, short sleeved summer-y version, buttons on sleeve ends, double breast pockets, flattish arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.

Version thirteen; for Sam, navy blue corduroy, navy topstitching, brown snaps.  Variations, made it a tad bigger and longer and out of corduroy to make a jacket-y thing. Double breast pockets, deep arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.  Contrasting beige cotton for lining the collar stand, pocket flaps and pockets.  Copied some very cool double hip pockets here that I had seen on a jacket in the surf shop.  Both my boys love these jackets btw!

Version fourteen; for Tim, beige corduroy, brown topstitching (a mistake, should have chosen matching thread…), brown snaps.  Variations, as above, with the double hip pocket thing.  Contrasting blue linen for lining the collar stand, pocket flaps and pockets.

Version fifteen; not surprisingly, I have another one cut out and awaiting my attention!  This one for me.  Stay tuned for this next one…

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little overview of the very versatile Burda 7767, and can appreciate why it is one of my favourite go-to’s!

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Pants as leggings

These rusty corduroy jeans seem to have shrunk gradually over time, and if there is one thing I cannot bear that is too-short jeans.  Ankle-freezers, we used to call them.  Unpicking the hemline and letting them down a touch is on my list of things to do… but in the meantime I have been mostly wearing them with boots like I am here, thus craftily disguising the lack of leg length.  Brilliant, no?  I’m a master at sartorial deviousness, hehe.  To make matters worse, my “top” here is actually a dress. 
Pants-as-leggings?  But what is this?  Aren’t there rules against this sort of thing?  Is this a situation anywhere near as heinous as its evil twin situation; leggings-as-pants?  Well, let us consider…
Leggings-as-pants… no, too awful to even think about it actually.  A case of Too Much Information, for sure.  I can’t see someone wearing their leggings as outerwear without feeling like I have to avert my eyes, don’t you?
But pants-as-leggings, well I have tried this once or twice before and responses have been mixed, but I think that slimline pants can actually be OK underneath a shirt dress like this, which is pretty much the equivalent of a super-loose, super-long shirt.  It’s a rumpled casual look that hints that I have ransacked through the husband’s wardrobe again, but y’know what?  I’m as toasty warm as!

Details:
Dress; Burdastyle magazine 05/2010, dress 111 with alterations, details and my review of this pattern here, plaid brushed cotton
Jeans; Burda 7863 slightly modified, rusty corduroy, details here
Boots; Andrea and Joen, from Uggies in Dunsborough

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