I’ve made this new dress #surprise! This beautiful poppy printed silk chiffon was a birthday present from my lovely thoughtful Mum… we were browsing together in Fabulous Fabrics and oohing and aahing over it, and she suddenly announced “I’d like to get that for you for your birthday!” And she even chose the pattern I was to use, which is of course Vogue 1351, anyone who has read this blog for even a short amount of time will know how much I LOVE this Donna Karan pattern since I’ve used it a few times. Actually four times before, to be exact; here,here, here and here. To my mind its silhouette has a perfect simplicity, or should that be that it is simply perfect? Either or!
The poppy chiffon is very delicate and sheer. The background is actually pure white, however I chose to line my dress with a off-white polyacetate lining fabric. I chose the off-white over pure white, because it was noticeable softer, the overall effect of the pure white was surprisingly harsh. I’m not really at my best in pure, pure white, even though I love it; a softer ivory-white is a lot better for me.
invisible zip in left side seam; this is always my preferred zip placement!
I’ve worn it several times already, the first time on Remembrance Day, when Mum, Dad, Craig and I went to visit the RSL poppy tribute at Kings Park. I chose to wear it a) because of Remembrance Day, of course! and b) because Mum and Dad were staying with us and I wanted to show them the lovely birthday present they had given to me!
Wait, the poppy tribute? Well, this year, 61,513 hand-knitted and crocheted poppies were made and “planted” by RSL volunteers, one poppy for each Australian lost at WW1. Seeing them and walking through the exhibit; the sheer number of them, was such a very sobering, very humbling and very moving experience. Speaking, um “craft-ily”, as it were; so much care and love and thought had obviously gone in to each and every poppy too, some had buttons, that we read were often included for their significance to the family in some way, like from a uniform or something. The exhibit was only on for four days, so we felt very fortunate we thought about it and went, and I was also very pleased to hear that the exhibit will be returning again in future years.
I did think about getting a picture of my dress at the exhibit, but once we got there I felt that would be disrespectful. I mean, while the poppies themselves were beautiful and spectacular and a visual treat to behold, of course I realised how very wrong it would be to treat them like a photo backdrop to my dress. Though a few ladies passing by did comment that my dress was “perfect for the day” which was very nice.
I did take a picture of Mum and Dad though…
I next wore the dress just recently, we had a gorgeously warm, but windy! weekend and we went for a lovely long afternoon walk at the beach, and I grabbed the opportunity to take some pictures… does Clara look incredibly wet and sandy in this picture? Well, that’s because she is!! I was wondering if she was going to jump up on me, or shake sopping sand all over me with one of those doggy full-body shakes.
Actually caught her partway through one said full-body shake below… and thank goodness she’s waaaaaaaay way over there! Normally she’ll come right up to you before letting loose, and I’m telling you, this is one ultra-fluffy hairy doggy, and she can carry a heckuvva lot of water and sand in that there gorgeous coat of hers!
plus bonus random bird! hey birdie!
Aaaaand there’s my husband, being very polite and keeping well out of the way while I take my pictures, ahem. Well, that’s what he’s supposed to be doing!! Man!
Fun fact; in this picture he’s wearing this blue jumper, that I made for him last Christmas. You have to scroll riiiiiiiiiight to the end of the post to find it though, I just checked and it’s a MONSTER post with about a million items in it. Well, that’s what it felt like, when I was making them I mean. Ha!
OK. Sooo, it’s early days, since this little sheath o’ my dreams is basically brand new, but I’m so in love with it already I’m just tentatively putting it out there… I think I’ve just managed to make a forever dress for myself. I just love love love ivory, as a colour, and lace as a texture, and ivory and lace combined together in one swathe of gloriously snow-dusted curlicues is just always a fabric that’s going to make me sigh with happiness.
Silk World Australia had contacted me to ask me if I would showcase one of their fabrics, and I chose one metre of this guipire lace, one metre being the minimum order; thinking I could make a little skirt. Silk World have up until recently been wholesalers, and now their beautiful laces and specialty fabrics are available for everyone! which of course is the best news for fabric lovers everywhere. I was blown away when my lace arrived.. it’s heavily and beautifully detailed, and luxuriously thick with that matte texture that whispers “quality” in hushed genteel notes. And when I shook out said one metre, well it was so so W I D E! I realised I could get not just a little skirt, but probably a whole dress out of it. And I did! Et voila!
One metre dictated a super pared-back, no frills, straight sheath silhouette, which is of course the best thing to show off the intricacies of the lace anyway. With something this exquisite, you only need a very little of it to make a big impact, in my opinion. I used an old favourite pattern, Burda 8511, and lined the dress with natural Irish linen, bought years ago at Calico & Ivy, when I had a voucher to burn and nothing in mind to particular spend it on… it’s really gorgeous stuff also and I’ve never really known exactly what to use it for. I love how the slightly rough ‘n rustic feel and muted stoney colour of the linen is a nice foil to the luxurious decadence of snow-dusted lace sitting on top… and now I feel like this is exactly the project what it was waiting for all along; a match made in heaven!
Cocktail dress for the season… sorted!
Aaaand, my new labels!! and oh my goodness can we just take a moment to appreciate how absolutely adorable ???
I got these from the Dutch Label Shop, and seriously, I struggled to choose a design, there were just so many cute options, and colours. I’m super super happy with these; I absolutely LOVE the sweetly funky design! and I’m also pretty impressed with the excellent quality. The labels are fabric, and the design is stitched, which is very nice; and you know how with a lot of fabric labels, you need to turn under the raw edges as you’re stitching them down, because of fraying? well these ones have all four edges nicely sealed so you don’t need to do that. They’re all ready to sew on! Also they are pleasantly substantial and sturdy, with no hint that they will buckle over time or in the wash, and the design is finely detailed and stitched tight and flat; so seems very unlikely it might snag or catch on anything, nor unravel. I am SO happy with them! 🙂
Also, I have amazing news! The Dutch Label Shop has very kindly and generously reached out and offered a discount to all my readers … enter handmadebycarolyn15 at the checkout and you will receive a 15% discount on any order.
FLOWERHEAD!!!
random tangent; do you know I’m looking at here? rhetorical question, I know, aren’t they the worst? actually there was a golden whistler sitting in the tree right by my head, whistling his little head off. I just had to rush over and grab my camera for a quick shot before he flew off… If you want to hear his lovely call, you can check it out here…
this next picture looks very loving doesn’t it? a tender mistress and puppy moment? actually Clara was having a “puppy mood” and was just really really keen to rip right into those flowers and zoom off through the garden with them.
LATER EDIT: Mary asked in the comments about the finishing and interior details, and thank you for reminding me, Mary! because I actually meant to post pictures of how I did this in my dress but forgot…
lace side seams; inside
the side seams of the lace shell I stitched along with a bias cut strip of thin, cream cotton, then trimmed the seam allowances of the lace and wrapped the cotton around to bind the edges in a Hong Kong-like seam, except I tucked the raw edge of the cotton under and hand-stitched it in place. This makes a nicely neat and tidy, cream-coloured roll; which might look like it could be seen on the right side but actually is kinda invisible when the dress is right side out.
lace side seams, outside
The linen lining; I finished the raw edges on my overlocker, and simply left them like that. The bottom edges of the zip tape I stitched down to the seam allowances like I usually do, in a short row of machine stitching.
The lace around the invisible zip on the outside; here I trimmed the lace while carefully hand stitching the raw edge securely right up to abut against the opening edge, while not obscuring it so I can still pull the zip up and down! You have to stitch every single little bit of lace down here so there are no loose bits to stick out, which would look very messy and also risk getting lace caught in the zip, so a stitch for like every 3mm or so.
At the top edge of the dress; I stitched the neckline and armscyes of the dress together, right side of linen lining to wrong side of lace shell, and added a linen facing, to hide the lace edges on the inside. This is under stitched so all edges roll to the inside of the dress. I handtacked the facing to the lining in a few key places along its edge too.
You can see in the above picture those bust darts shaping the front lining, and also (not seen) on the back lining I stitched long fish-eye darts to shape the small of the back. I lightly hand-tacked the lace shell to these back darts in a few places so the unshaped lace shell sits shaped to the curve of my back a little more than it would otherwise. I mean, without this tacking, the lace just hangs down dead straight, and I like it to curve into the small of my back just a little. The hand-tacking helps it to do this 🙂
Details:
Dress; Burda 8511, in this guipure lace and natural linen
Shoes; Zomp, from Zomp boutique
Flowers; were from the garden, I love these and they’re looking so beautiful at the moment! I actually picked them to decorate the kitchen. I was just aiming for “spring-y”, though now I think my pictures are veering just a little into bridal territory? though I do quite like the idea of this look for a modern and maybe, mature, bride! Anyway, Note to self; perhaps avoid carrying big bunches of flowers in my pictures from now on
Christmas party season? I am SO ready! though honestly, not just for Christmas, I am going to wear this dress for ever and EVER…
For years I’ve avidly read about the Tessuti sewing competition and always wanted to enter.. this year I finally got myself organised into ordering some of the fabric in a timely fashion! Buying fabric online is always a leeetle bit scary but I trust fabric stores I’ve visited for real, and Tessuti’s is one of Australia’s best. This year the fabric is this rather lovely ivory/blue cotton/linen/viscose/1%elastane plaid. It’s satisfactorily thick and crisp, with a good hand, so the skirt of my dress sits out nicely in a softly stiff way, if that makes sense. The rules for the competition are kinda open, kinda restrictive… open, in that you can make whatever the heck you want… the sky’s the limit! Restrictive, in that all visible parts of the garment must be made entirely using of the competition fabric… no trims, no dyeing, no embellishments like beading, smocking or embroidery, no contrasting fabrics. Hmmm, a nice challenge!! *rubs hands together with glee*
I had some very grand ideas to start with, but after lots of mulling it over decided to just make something I wanted to wear, you know? and what I love to wear more than anything else is an interesting little frock. So that’s what I made! A lengthy but enjoyable perusal of my pattern stash followed, and I plucked out Simplicity 3745, a pattern I’ve used twice before, version one here and version two here; so I know how it works for me!
Sooo: how to use the fabric creatively to add some visual interest to the garment??
Obviously, being a plaid one could play with on-grain vs bias cutting… I made a little mud map of the areas of my pattern, they numbered six, divided them into three each of bias and straight-cut sections, with the straight cut being the predominant look and treating bias-cut sections like a sort of “contrast”, of sorts; and I arranged my 3 bias-cut areas and 3 on-grain-cut areas so as to alternate. Plaid orientation proved a little tricker than first anticipated when I realised the ivory “square” wasn’t a square at all, but measures 2cm x 1.75cm. Meaning I had to choose between “true” bias-cut, which would have been a little off-kilter as far as the appearance of the plaid goes… or slightly off bias, and having the folds/seams going neatly through each of those little white centre points at each junction. I chose slightly off-bias, and having the plaid-matching arrangements looking sharp.
As another point of visual interest to my dress; I turned to my tried and true method (my tutorial for “framing” in a pieced garment with an inset strip is here) of inserting an inset strip to define the design and seam lines of the garment. I cut strips from the fabric, and sewed them in so the bluest, most solid-in-colour part of the plaid design made the dividing line. Ususally I would cut my inset strips on the bias, in this case of course to get a nice solid-ish blue line they had to be cut on-grain.
I was a little worried it wouldn’t work out, that they would pucker and not lie flat and smooth around the curved seamlines, but fortunately the on-grain strips went in perfectly nicely! Must be thanks to that little bit of elastane…! I used this inset strip technique to outline the neckline band, the two sleeve bands, the bodice band, and also the upper edge of the lower edge band.
As another way to add a little bit of visual punch: I sewed strips of the fluffy-edged selvedge along the lower hemline of the dress. I’d experimented with cutting bias strips and shredding them a bit to get a bit of a fringe… something I’d seen on the hemline of a white linen dress made by Tessuti’s once upon a time. However the skylines fabric is so densely woven that it just wouldn’t fringe up at all! Then I noticed the selvedge… aha!!! It had that perfectly fluffy little fringe all along each edge already! I cut strips of the selvedge, including a blue line of the plaid, and stitched this to the bottom edge of the dress. Initially I had thought to use this finish on the edge of the sleeve bands as well, but it was visually a little bit too busy and I ended up removing the selvedge off the sleeves. I do like how it looks along the bottom edge though!
Closure: I used a 46cm, ivory invisible zip. and yep! busted a gut getting this thing sewn in as invisibly as possible!!
This degree of pattern-matching took extremely careful pinning and slow sewing, and just one or two unpicking sessions when some bits weren’t as perfectly lined up as I wanted. I’m super happy with how it turned out in the end though!
Oh! pockets! of course I added inseam pockets. well, obviously, that’s practically a given, if I can possibly wrangle it – in anything – then I do!
Innards; I overlocked all raw edges using ivory thread in my overlocker… and look, tessuti’s sent out one of their labels for us to put in our garments… #feelssoprofessional!!!
Les Innards…
NOT les innards…
So that’s it! done and dust-eeeerd!! I love wearing this thing! It feels so feminine and… girly, is the only word I can think. Girly, in a good way, I mean. Hehe, I asked my husband’s opinion…he replied, “Swiss milk maid” ummm… okaaaay? Would not have come up with that on my own, but I’ll take it!
Details:
Dress; Simplicity 3745, in a cotton/linen/viscose plaid
Shoes; akiel, found in an op shop many years ago
I’m beyond thrilled to announce the publication of our very first pattern! The Perth dress/blouse is an unlined, loose-fitting little summer frock with a bit of a buttoned-up menswear vibe to it. It’s kinda like a shirtdress, but kinda not. A faux shirtdress. The shirtdress to make when you’re not making a shirtdress. Hehe, I joked in my own head while making it that it’s the shirtdress to make if you loathe buttonholes, since there are barely any at all in this one! Also, I say “our”pattern, not because I’m using the royal “we”; but because I’ve gone into partnership with my daughter! #whatdotheysayaboutfamilyandbusiness but it’s OK, Cassie and I get along very well. Plus she has mad magic Illustrator skills, which perfectly complements my complete lack thereof. So we are the Carolyn & Cassie Pattern Co – this warms the cockles of my heart SO much I can’t even tell you! I never dreamed we’d have some kind of venture together like this but now we do I think I can tick it off some sort of subconscious bucket list that I never knew I had.
So we have a brand new Etsy shop, CarolynandCassie; situated here… Right now there’s only one thing in it, well TWO, since the pdf pattern and paper patterns are listed separately, but we harbour big dreams of having lots and LOTS of designs there in the future. Or maybe that’s just the happy glow that comes with having it finally finished… I’ve been basically living and breathing this thing for such a while, well …. it’s out there now!
So this is what I’ve been working on for the past few months, not just pattern making but lots and lots of sewing too. Apart from well over a dozen muslins, I’ve made four Perths in my quest for the perfect Perth. I shall now proceed to bombard you with Perths, ahem…
1. My chocolate/tobacco version above; this is not strictly a Perth but a “sort of” Perth dress, really. This is my prototype Perth, a Perth in spirit since the final pattern is actually quite different everywhere in small ways … you can see in my little movie below that it’s super bouffy, for one thing, and I tamed the boufff in that back with a big ol’ stern box pleat. Down, boufff, down!
I made this one back in April of last year! and because I’d already had the idea of making it into a pattern somehow it never got blogged here, even though I wore it a few times.
2. My white one… a true Perth and currently my favourite mostly because of the perfect fabric. It’s a white shirting cotton from Fabulous Fabrics, almost like a sateen, but a super fine one, crisp, lightweight and with the perfect amount of drape. LOVE IT SO MUCH and actually I’m slightly regretting that I didn’t buy the whole roll #addicted In fact, this might be a good time to state what I think is the ideal fabric for this design… lightweight, thin fabrics that have some drape, yet still have just enough body for the tailored collar to work. Basically, if you can imagine a mens’ business shirt made in it, then it’s probably just about perfect. Sad sad times… I went back to the fabric store yesterday on another quest (long story and a pretty “big” one too in lifetime terms, I’ll relate it another time…) and had a quick but hopeful look out for this perfect white fabric.. they’d sold it all!! *sob* #gottagrabitwhileitsthere
This one has slightly longer sleeves, that I eventually decided to shorten for the final version of the pattern. I shortened them back to the length of my original brown design because I thought the shorter sleeves looked a little more feminine and “perkier”; a nice offset to the overt masculinity of the buttoned-up, very formal looking collar.
3. Further playing upon the menswear influence, I ran up a third version with a smart white collar, a lot like the shirts that I’ve made for my menfolk over the years.. these ones here are prime examples. I used a lovely lemon-y yellow, lightweight pinstriped linen that I bought in Fratelli Bassetti Tessuti in Rome when we visited six years ago. It was my Roman souvenir, and I’m fiiiiinally making something with it. Well, it’s nothing if not well marinated! I used a single black button at the throat as a small but definitive focal point on the dress.
Going back to my point about the perfect fabric, this linen has a little bit of body, maybe if I’m being super picky then I would say it has slightly too much body for the design to drape perfectly? But it’s still pretty nice to wear, and cool!
4. And finally; along the way I realised the design would make quite a nice blouse too, so we went about making this happen. I like this length for a blouse slightly cropped and a little boxy. For the blouse, I used a dark indigo chambray, leftovers from this dress actually! and a wooden button.
The chambray is a touch on the spongy side with some body to it so Im a teeny bit meh about it for this design really, but well… I’m completely ok with it for testing out, and I think it turned out a pretty cute wearable muslin.
Some of the technical deets…
So, want to hear the story behind the pattern?…. it’s ok if you don’t just stop reading now. If you want to know to whole boring saga, carry on! SO: nearly a year ago I made my brown dress, my prototype as it turned out. I’d bought this lovely, slightly blotchy chocolate/tobacco linen from Tessuti’s in Melbourne during my trip there with Mum, Cassie and Tiffany, and drafted my own pattern, using my own block that I made years ago from my own measurements using the diagrams from Pattern Magic (originally blogged about here), though I tacked on the collar and collar stand from my favourite Burda mens’ shirt pattern… but before you cry “plagiarist!” I did NOT use that Burda collar and stand for my own Perth pattern! I drafted the Perth ones myself from scratch, as I did all parts of the pattern. I promise you, I’m very ethical and would never try to claim something as mine that is not…but more about the drafting process-ario later, I’m getting ahead of myself.
So, I made my brown dress. I put quite a bit of thought into the closure, and worked out a solution to get the look I wanted. I liked it, but overall thought the silhouette was a little “booffy” and was definitely planning to streamline it a bit down the track. In the meantime though I’d posted a progress picture on instagram, and there was a small number of polite comments suggesting an interest should I make a pattern for it. The seed was planted…
I thought more and more about it.. I wasn’t daunted by drafting a pattern to fit “me”, but I was wondering how I could grade it. At first I thought I’d get a qualified person to grade it for me. I approached several people I know who have completed fashion design school at tech, none of whom had time. But my friend J, fashion school graduate, and all-round awesomely inspiring lady, was extremely encouraging and assured me I could “easily do it” and it was “super easy”. I secretly had doubts about this… but she piled my arms high with her pattern drafting books and sent me off. I definitely felt challenged, and like I couldn’t possibly not do it now! I was honour bound! J would think I was an idiot! Well… I am obviously, but no need for the world to know that, hehehe…. I spent the next few months studying the books J had given me, taking notes… the best by far was Winifred Aldrich’s Metric Pattern Cutting for Women’s Wear, I pretty much got everything from that. There was also a vintage Burda book, I can’t remember its title at the moment but that one gave some very helpful grading tips too.
So I eventually graded my pattern! I’d drawn it out by hand on large sheets of paper from a flip chart pad, with no seam allowances, graded it all by hand, and proceeded to trace and test each individual size myself before getting it scanned as a full sized pdf. Yes, this is definitely NOT the most efficient way to go about it… I had early, highly romantic ideas about a hand-drawn pattern… aaah, so naive! I quickly abandoned that fantasy!! though hand-grading was an essential step in the process in the end, and I happily had complete confidence that my pattern “worked” in all the sizes… Then I started thinking about learning Illustrator. I made a few low-grade investigations… and then Cassie got wind of what I was doing and reminded me that she basically spent her whole degree using Illustrator. I was like, wow, would you teach me? and she replied, oh Mum, I could make that pattern into a pdf for you in half a day… I was, like OH My GOD! My saviour!!! At first, I was just going to pay her for her time… but as time went on, and we were working side by side on our computers, her on the pattern (it took a lot longer than half a day, btw!) me on the illustrations and instructions (also way longer than half a day!) and the idea of a partnership came up and it felt totally natural. She was keen. And I’m so very happy about it! This means that if either of us come up with an idea then we have this outlet for it, and we have complementary skills.
Of course, it’s our first pattern, and the learning curve has been steep. I reckon I did some things three or four times over, simply because the right way wasn’t immediately obvious. Almost like, you have to kiss a lot of frogs before you get a prince. Or maybe you can’t see the trees for the forest? Making a pattern turned out to be something like that!
The next step was the all-important “real” testing phase, and it’s SUPER important! I’m completely indebted to my delightful and awesomely helpful testers… who went through my amateurish instructions with a fine-tooth comb, thank goodness since I could barely see anything anymore for having re-written them a hundred times over. Those that sent me pictures have made the most beautiful dresses which has been SUPER exciting. I will do a separate post highlighting my lovely testers, soon, once everyone has got “final” pictures in to me.
Making the pattern a tangible thing: well at first I was just like, A4 is enough, yeah? Then one of my lovely testers SaSa of paisley pirouette mentioned a firm preference for A0, and I had a lightbulb moment that I should offer that too. Sounds so obvious in retrospect but truthfully I was kinda overwhelmed with it all at this point, so I really appreciated the reminder! SaSa also kindly recommended to me a massive comment thread about people’s pattern preferences, over on sewbusylizzy, which I sat down and read in a night. I got from this that sewing peeps were pretty evenly divided three-ways in their allegiance to and/or total avoidance of A4, A0 and/or paper patterns. Meaning in fact, a pattern designer pretty much has to offer everything if she/he wants to a. please everyone, and b. be taken even half-way seriously! So Cassie got to work on the A0 file and I went about making paper patterns happen. I got my patterns printed at Officeworks, folded ’em all myself, and printed out and compiled my own instruction booklets, put together the pattern envelopes myself. Goodness, that took an entire day all by itself, phew! And then I set up our etsy shop… aaaand sat on the edge of my seat waiting for my first sale! The excitement when the first one popped in, wheeee! What a rush!
So that’s it! Want to try out my pattern?! We are the Carolyn & Cassie Pattern Co. our shop is CarolynandCassie on Etsy, and we have the Perth dress/blouse pdf pattern and the Perth dress/blouse paper pattern on offer. I’ve also put a link to the shop up in my sidebar. And I would love to see your Perths! If you make one, then please either let me know in the comments, or tag us @handmadebycarolyn and @shyshycassie on instagram, and use the hashtag #perthdress
Perth, and Perth! hehe
Am I thinking about my next pattern…? well, of course!!
I’ve made a new dress! Every year, my group of lovely friends gives me a gift voucher to Fabulous Fabrics for my birthday… basically my ideal pressie, and I get to go in and choose something yummy… this year I chose this utterly divine silk charmeuse printed with an unusual fractured design. It almost looks like a watercolour/hazy kinda of an abstract , that has been cut and laid in random, uneven ribbons across a pearly ivory ground and then printed like that. You can’t really “see” much of anything in the print when looked at as a whole, but if you look closely you can see areas which look like the topstitching on old levi’s, and a brown leather belt with a brass buckle… you’d never think of it to look at it!
I used Vogue 1351, and managed to eke out of my voucher allowance a length of ivory silk habotai to line it… this is so divine to wear against the skin! so it’s worth it for a slithery slippery little number like this.
… I showed off the lining briefly in my action video below… in which I am obviously totally upstaged by my little production assistant, and honestly I’m not in the habit of lifting up the dress to show off ma underpinnings generally, but I know sewing peeps would understand. Apologies for the crashingly bad quality btw, I’m still learning how to do these videos! editing is kinda tricky and I’m still in the stage where it’s super lucky if I get any clips in there at all, let alone in the right order, and well, forget about continuity. Hopefully I’ll get better at this over time!
I left in the turning off the camera bit at the end too, just because during editing I realised it showed off the cowl neck quite nicely and you can see how the bodice lining doesn’t flip out at all, but sits hugging your torso quite securely and nicely. One of the things about a cowl neck is how they can be too exposing if not done well, and I have a few of these in my own wardrobe that I need to be really careful with! but this pattern is not one of them. The cowl is supported beautifully by the lining in a very modest way. It’s one of my favourite patterns for this reason… this is my fourth time making the pattern, my previous versions are here, here and here. I still wear all of them pretty frequently, except for the green wool one, which came to a heartbreakingly tragic early demise thanks to a too hot wash cycle. I could have cried when I pulled out this mangled, felted little thing from the depths of the washing machine. We were still in the honeymoon phase and I was so excited to think I’d be wearing it a million times yet. *sigh* A moment’s silence please…
And a couple of commenters mentioned after my previous video, and thanks for the positive response! I’m so pleased it’s a feature that people might like! anyway, a few wanted to see more, particularly what things look like when you sit down, so I dashed out to quickly film and tack on an extra bit with that too, which also happens to show off the dress closure by invisible zip in the left hand side seam. I really like dresses that close in this way, much easier to do up than a centre back zip and makes for a nice seamless look.
Details:
Dress; Vogue 1351, silk charmeuse lined with silk habotai
Shoes, in the video; Pedro Miralles
So, a few months ago, I was contacted by Nadja, of Schnittchen Patterns, who asked if I would like to be the Aussie in Sewing around the World 2018. Such an honour to be asked! and of course I was delighted! I’m the designated Miss February, hehe.
I was kinda like, hmmm February … and of course, Valentine’s Day. Pink, clearly… I mean, I love pink anyway, so really I don’t even need an excuse to make something pink. But it’s nice having one!
Usually on Valentine’s Day, we’re in the habit of going for a picnic together; it’s such a lovely time of year here for a picnic! warm balmy nights with pink and apricot and orange and navy blue sunsets. I make up a nice basket with the finest goodies Coles has to offer; I’m thinking smoked salmon salad, strawberries and chockies, with a bottle of pink bubbly- clearly got pink on the brain here, but naturellement! – and a rug… we carry it down to the foreshore, set ourselves up, plastic flutes in hand to watch the sun go down, with a thousand city lights across the water, twinkling into being like fairy lights. Yep, pretty nice. Should make the effort more than once a year!
Anyway, I pictured myself clad appropriately in something super romantic, ladylike and feminine… I chose the Schnittchen Sally dress pattern, because it’s nothing if not romantic, ladylike and feminine… a true wrap dress with ultra-oversized pockets and a tulip skirt; a sweet and slightly old-fashioned in a good way, beautifully drape-y design… my favourite part is the bodice, with those lovely gentle gathers falling gracefully from the shoulders.
For the fabric, I picked out this crepe from my stash, originally bought from Spotlight last year sometime. I bought it with no plan in mind, just because I loved the delicate, Chinoiserie vibe of the print… and the colours; deep mossy green boughs against a beautiful warm, peachy-pink sky… this is basically my perfect pink.
Actually, I’ve been very inspired by a more ladylike vibe and silhouette lately, pinning tea length and floaty floral dresses like they’re going out of fashion… oh wait, well you know what I mean! Honestly, I think floral is having a real moment. Although, you know fashion; dichotomous is pretty much the thing. I myself am into romantic one day, quirky the next, sculptural and monochromatic the day after that. I often wonder how the defining look of our times is going to be depicted; 10, 20, 30 years in the future. Maybe the skinny jean/loose tee/moto jacket look, and yet, my Vogue magazines for the past year have zig-zagged wildly over several different extremes; the sharp yet comfortable, post-modern, luxe ath-leisure look, the oversized, minimal look, the floaty, floral, feminine look. I personally am very much more excited by these looks than the skinny jean one.
Making this dress was pretty easy, once I’d nutted out the waistband design. I didn’t have quite enough fabric to self-line the pockets, so used a portion of coffee-coloured polyacetate lining fabric for that bit; otherwise I used up every last scrap of the crepe, which is an enormously satisfying thing to do in the sewing world. The instructions are translated from the German and are … interesting, and took me a little while to wrap my head around them. I don’t mean that in a negative way. I actually like to be stretched mentally in my sewing, get my brain buzzing about with different ways of thinking about it, and it’s not so often that pattern instructions make me stop and THINK. These ones did! It’s funny, I’ve been sewing for aaaaages and have always experimented with lots of different pattern companies, but pretty much everyone employs the same lingo and you can’t help but fall into a bit of a rut. I mean, for example, you come to expect particular words to be used to describe particular procedures in sewing, and when those particular words are not used, when another, unexpected word is used instead, it can throw you for a bit of a loop. Speaking kinda generally there, but specifically, the construction of this dress is a straightforward affair, it’s just that you have to read, and comprehend, and not just expect everything to be written using the exact same set of prescribed terms. It’s actually one of the things I enjoy about using other-language patterns.
I don’t know why I always include a rear shot… it’s rarely an interesting sight and I always think I look awful. But anyway, I guess about half the people around you will catch sight of it whether they want to or not, so I guess it’s a good idea to see it for yourself too. It’s since taking pictures of my rear view for the blog that I’ve learnt pattern placement on the back of your clothing is JUST AS IMPORTANT a consideration as the front. Happily, this is a pretty lovely print, with little possibility of an unfortunate, accidental bullseye.
I am in two minds about the hem length on this one though. Part of me is wondering if I need to lop off a few inches…
HUGE plus, the pockets are actually HUGE (satisfied sigh) You could stash a kitten in there, easily… #don’tevenknowwhyIthoughtofthatone #leavingit
I consider myself Valentine-ready! Pass the champers! (hic!)
Details:
Dress; schnittchen patterns Sally dress, in a printed crepe, quite crisp, thin, drapes beautifully
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp shoes
Later edit;
I’m trying out a new “thing” for the stuff I showcase here on my blog; a little action!! a little less conversation! the flat picture is kinda nice, not 100% informative, and I know I like to see things more “for real” as in how they move, how they look in 3D… this may or may not become an every-time feature… apart from the ineptitude of the model – it’s her first time! please forgive!! – what do you think?
I have made a very special dress lately… actually I am super busy at the moment sewing up Christmas goodies but I have deviously made sure I always have something on the go for myself at the same time too, hehehe. And I knew I wanted to devote some of my time to making something from this deliciously cheerful and sunny dandelion fabric sent to me by my dear friend Lisa, of Lisa’s Carolina. Thank you so much Lisa!
Lisa has also made something for herself in it too.. . a Lotta Jansdotter Pilvi jacket. I really loved how she bound her seams inside using a yellow gingham, and I shamelessly took a leaf from her book and used small-scale yellow gingham for the facings and bindings inside my dress too. Thank you for this super pretty inspiration, Lisa!
armhole edge
skirt facing and pocket binding. and hemline binding. gingham galore, in fact…
I very much like this style of simple, fitted little flared dress, the “wings” have lovely roomy pockets in them which is just the most perfect arrangement!! and I juuuuuust managed to squeeze my pattern pieces onto the piece! though doing this took a little bit of placement magic… Like I mentioned in my initial review of the pattern it is quite boxy in the bodice so I slimmed down the bodice by about 3cm from the centre, and also by shaving off some width from the princess seams at the waist…. the design is more slim-fitting up top now but is has plenty of wearing ease enough for me, I think.
Also, I forgot to mention this the first time I made the dress, in which I did this exact same thing, but in order to avoid having visible topstitching on the “wings” that outline where the pockets are inside, I interlined the pockets with a light, white cotton voile. The back part of the pocket, that you see inside when the wings flap open, is the self-fabric.
This little strip of gingham inside the pockets was put there by my mistake understanding the pocket construction … but then I left it in place because I think it’s kind of cute 🙂
Details:
Dress; Burdastyle 04/2014;108 slightly modified, in a slubby woven cotton, slightly spongy and wholly delicious
Clara is such a lovely addition to our family, so fun and full of life and love and doing very well. And growing up fast. I can even take her for walks now without having my arm pulled from its socket
Originally I bought this lovely magnolia print fabric to make something else… but ended up making this random frock instead. Spring was coming…and I really wanted something romantic and floral. I sorta couldn’t picture anything properly, there were false starts… then Mum, Cassie and I had planned another trip to Melbourne this year, to go to the Dior exhibition at the NGV and I became enamoured of something old-fashioned, feminine, of an easy-wearing, pfouffy skirt. So this is me, realising that. I feel a bit like an old-fashioned housemaid, like Cinders before the pumpkin, or an Arthur Rackham-illustrated Alice.
This is all good 🙂
I thought I would get a nice picture of my dress at the Dior exhibition… but do you think I did?! nope! I wore it, but well, Mum, Cassie and I were so busy looking at all the delightful Dior, listening to our audio and ooh-ing and aah-ing so I didn’t even think about it!! however I did notice a few days later that my dress was serendipitously a lovely colour/design complement to the floor in the NGV.
You just have to picture it on there!
Fabric; a stretch cotton sateen from Spotlight. I went to considerable trouble to make sure the magnolias are scattered randomly and unevenly across the dress with no discernible pattern repeats … even laying the pattern pieces down upside down sometimes so as to avoid too much same-ness.
Pattern; Vogue 1317, a Chado Ralph Rucci design. I have made this pattern exactly once before, here. I loved that dress and wore it a lot; but the tight underarm issue due to the unusual seaming with gusset and the cut-on, close-fitting sleeve arrangement, that I discussed in that post, turned out to be quite annoying after all. You might love the style of a thing, but if it’s uncomfortable then there comes a time where you’re like; why am I wearing this?? … and at one point I had one of those kon-mari urges to do a whirlwind clean out. I read a good tip somewhere… can’t remember where… that a good way to do a quick clean out of a closet or wardrobe that was stressing you out due to vague feelings of having Too Much Stuff was to walk up to it and just immediately and spontaneously pick out ten things to throw away,right then and there. You’re not supposed to spend more than, say five or ten seconds thinking about each thing… but just a gut reaction; do I love this? or not really? Because honestly, you know in your heart the answer to that question already and not allowing yourself time to talk yourself out of it does make the process of jettisoning rubbish a lot easier. Trust me, it does.
So, out it went. In my opinion the importance of using a stretchy fabric for this pattern should be printed in large bold letters across the front of the envelope. It’s absolutely fine in a stretch fabric. Well, of course it is! Everything’s fine in a stretch fabric!!
the ability to lift your arms up comfortably is always a plus
Mods:
1) I left off all the double topstitching for a clean stitch-less look, finishing off the hemline with bias-cut white voile… I also left off the giant birthday-present bow that ties in the middle of your tummy. I thought about cutting it longer and wrapping and tying it at the back like I did with my first version, but really the print makes this dress pretty busy enough already, without a belt-y thing as another visual distraction.
2) I shifted the pockets out towards the side seams by about 4cm, just like I did with my first version… you can just tell the pockets are situated way too close to the centre front, just by looking at that cover shot.
3) and most obviously; I wasn’t happy with the dress how it is here in its intended short version; in fact at this point I took a violent dislike to it and almost abandoned it completely. A few weeks of despondency passed by, and I was thinking about the Dior exhibition coming up, which let me to think of the Dior shape, which in turn inspired me to add the long ruffle/frill around the bottom…. I used leftover fabric from which I cut random “doughnut segments” and “pieces of pie” shapes, joined them together to make a giant, sorta fluted doughnut… and attached this to a white cotton voile skirt lining
I felt a lot better about the dress after this.
So I’ve worn it several times now… hmmm there I go, wearing things before blogging them, again!! Oh, I also decided to permanently stitch the collar flaps down inside to make it a V-neck. I just like this look better than the high slit front, in this particular fabric. Not quite so prim and proper.
The good thing about wearing something before blogging it is that I can, at least report on how it feels out in the wild, so to speak. I’ve worn it on the beach, to walk my dog, to do housework and the shopping… as well as in amongst the divine Dior. And I’m happy to say that the delightfully feminine swishiness afforded to me by this dress indeed sparked much joy in my heart, rendering it safe from kon-mari-ing, at least for a while!