Tag Archives: Own Design

Anatomy of a ball dress, pt 2

I apologise for the lack of progress pictures on this dress.  Pretty much I’ve had heaps of work and errands to catch up on, and am restricted to sewing in a more limited amount of spare time than I’m used to.  I hope I get it finished!!  No, I’m kidding, this dress will get finished, even if the pictures become a bit sporadic over the next week…
Oh, and thankyou everyone who commented positively on my petticoat in its early stages!  It’s so nice to receive lovely supportive comments, I’m very grateful for each and every one of them, you are all wonderfully kind people… Thankyou all so much!
So last night I finished draping the flounce to my satisfaction, folded down 1cm under the top edge and sewed it onto the petticoat with a double line of stitching.

I then inserted the zip and finished the centre back seam.  Haven’t put in a hook and eye as yet, doh!!
(Apologies for the poor quality of the following pictures.  I took these this evening and it’s too dark for outside photos…)

I handfinished the lining inside the petticoat, yes, my now well-documented obsession with having a nice looking inside; here is a photo of the inside of the bodice

And the petticoat so far.  I have to model it myself from now on because as I’ve blogged about previously, as wonderful a model as Bessie is she is bigger than me and so once the zip has gone in I can no longer do it up on her… 

The next step will be to hand hem the petticoat, which I will do in front of the idiot box tonight… stay tuned…

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Turquoise and sand

Today is the most magnificent day, with blue blue skies and not a cloud to be seen…  The last time I wore this skirt I went for bright bright bright, but I think I love it even more with these warm caramelly neutral tones like I’m wearing today.  Colours reminiscent of sandy beaches, crystal clear waves and clear blue skies, no?  I must be pining for the hues of summer already, although the weather today is glorious enough for the most perfect summer’s day.
And have a look at this fluffy little purr-monster.  She came up and instigated a love-fest while I was taking my photos today.  Have a look at those eyes!
Sadly I have lots of office work to get through even though I would much prefer to be out in the garden.  I’ve done a tiny bit more work on my ball gown but have hit a standstill…  I’m heading back up to the fabric shop after work to get a bit more fabric for my flounce, as the one I have pinned to the petticoat now is not as flouncy as I desire.  Must have plenty of flounce!  Flounce is gooood!  Tomorrow I should have more progress to show you.

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1023, turquoise polycotton
Camisole; Cotton on, tossed out by my daughter
Cardigan; my own design, coffee and white net
Scarf; Country Road
Sandals; Salvo’s op shop
Nail varnish; Fool’s Paradise, BYS
Zoe; as herself

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Pistachio and lilac

The last time I went op-shopping at the Salvation Army I found this stunning lilac suede skirt.  Yes, you read correctly, suede!!  I cannot believe the lovely things people throw out sometimes…  It has a very slightly graded frill around the bottom, is completely lined in mauve lining and has a raw edge hemline.  It has one label reading Otto collection, and its care label is completely in Japanese.  It’s in immaculate condition and fits me perfectly.  And I love it.  And it was $10.  How could I walk away from a winner like that?
And since today is a glorious warm and sunny autumn day I’m wearing it with my pistachio linen top, refashioned from an old pair of drawstring pants here.  And my boots, because it was just chilly enough this morning that my feet were cold.  I’m not sure about this old necklace.  At the time I made it I though it was so wonderful, but now I’m going off it a bit…  I put it on because I wanted a bit of … something to add pizazz and fill in in the big open neckline of this top.

Details:
Top; own design, refashioned from old linen pants
Skirt; Otto collection, opshop
Necklace, own design, made by me
Boots; Enrico Antinori, Zomp

Just to show you, Polyvore just had a nautical competition and here is my entry.  Not very classically nautical (like, nearly every single other entry was navy, red and white with stripes tossed in there somewhere) but I was going for something a bit different and fun here.  And turquoise is so hot right now!!

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Orange and khaki combo

Went into the city this morning with my daughter, and since it was a bit blustery I leapt at the opportunity to wear my trench coat… and am excited about wearing it a lot since it was so comfortable and cosy.  Crazily, I went through my wardrobe for ages this morning, unable to decide what to put on.  My husband laughs incredulously when I tell him stuff like that… “But you’ve got so many clothes!”  yes, but I still wail about having nothing to wear on a regular basis.  Ridiculous, I know.  Perhaps it’s time for a clean-out.
I’m particularly happy with the colours of my outfit today; yeah, it was inevitable that my new knotted necklace would get worn at some time with my burnt orange skirt.  I love this combination of orange with khaki and beige.  My mother has been telling me to wear colours like these for years.  They remind me a little of the outfits that men who like to hunt wear in the US; they would be all decked out in their camouflage gear, but with a neon orange vest on the top.  I was told the orange vest was so they wouldn’t inadvertently shoot each other whilst hunting.  But then why the camouflage, I wondered?  Kind of hilarious, when you think about it…
This little olive top I’m wearing I’ve had for about ten years.  It’s getting a bit thin and mis-shapen and a few times I’ve contemplated tossing it into the Salvos pile, but I’ve kept hanging on to it because of its colour.
My daughter took this photo and the reason I look so peculiar is I’m dying of embarrassment that someone is going to come around the corner of Wesley Church (the lovely brick backdrop) and see us; I loathe people seeing me have my photo taken… I’m too shy and need to be alone.
The other photos I took today I’m keeping for tomorrow; I have some interesting sewing-related observations on famous couture to talk about, but enough from me for now and I’ll be back with more later…

Details:
Trench coat; Burda 7786 modified to be double breasted, stone cotton
Top; Cue, had for about ten years
Skirt; Vogue 7303, burnt orange silk hessian
Necklace; made by me
Shoes; Betts & Betts Brazilian collection, had these for about twenty years
Bag; Gucci

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“Black-adder” cardigan

I finished this cardigan just before we set out on our trek but didn’t get time to do a post about it.
Do you remember me mentioning some rubber/plastic coated jersey knit, stamped in a kind of scaly print that I thought would be ideal to finish off my python print satin outfit, but it wasn’t?  (I know, shocking grammar, there has to be a better way of phrasing that…)  Gorgeous and unusual fabric, fell in love with it at first sight.  A tough-but-still-chic-looking leather alternative to satisfy even the most ardent PETA supporter.  I think I’ll be wearing it a lot this autumn/winter!
Ultimately this was a very easy project, sewn together completely on my overlocker and took all of about twenty minutes to put together once cut out.  I didn’t think to take any “during” photos, but I’ll provide a few construction details in case anyone wishes to reproduce this one for themselves.
So I had 70cm of this stuff and decided to make a little cardigan out of it.  I took one of my existing cardigans which I like the shape of, laid it flat and smooth as possible onto paper and drew respectively around its back, front and sleeve, adding a 1cm seam allowance.  

When I tried to lay these out on my fabric the fun began and I had to have a good long think about what was possible.  There really wasn’t enough fabric to make a full length cardigan, so there was compromise.  This end result is proof that even if you don’t have quite enough fabric to fit your vision, if you are determined and persevere and think outside the box about using all your fabric to best effect, you can still have a good outcome.  And I was determined…!
The body pieces had to be cut shorter to about waist-length.  Paradoxically this still left plenty of long strips on the edges, so I used these for the waistband, sleeve bindings, and also to add a long collar/front tie to the neckline.  I didn’t use pattern pieces for these strips, just measured myself, pinned and adlibbed.
The wrist bands are made by serging your wrist strip along its short edge into a tube.  Fold this in half wrong sides together around the circular middle of the tube.  Pin to the right side of your sewn-together sleeve and serge around the raw edges.

The waistband strip is folded in half along its long axis wrong sides together, likewise pinned to the right side of the bottom edge and raw edges simply serged together.  My waistband strip wasn’t quite long enough for proper squared edges, so I sewed the ends on a narrowing curve as they ended at the front edges, and I really like the look of how this turned out.  I got the idea for this from one of my Metalicus cardigans.

The raw edges of the fronts and the long tie collar posed their own finishing problem.  No finish seemed to look right: visible serged edges looked a bit unprofessional; topstitching looked horrendous and my ordinary machine hated the rubbery plastic finish, it kept sticking in the machine; rolled and hand-sewn edges wouldn’t have worked because this fabric does not crease or fold.  So eventually I unearthed a bit of leftover black silk jersey (leftover from this dress, made about five years ago, yes, I often keep scraps that long!!)
I had just enough to cut out two front pieces and a strip the same length as my neck piece (er, the same length once I pieced together three smaller strips, that is).  Sewing these to their corresponding fashion fabric pieces right sides together at the edges, turning right side out, then treating as one piece seemed to do the trick nicely.  I apologise that they look a bit cat-hair-y in this photo.  I did say the fabric had been sitting around a while…!  And you can probably make out the selvedge holes along the edge of the silk jersey, I really did have only just enough fabric!  Yeah, I could have bought a bit more fabric, but by now I was on a minimal-wastage mission…

And so my new cardigan.  Today has brought a tiny taste of winter to Perth (thank goodness we had fabulous weather for out trek!), so I’m dressing a bit wintery-like.

Details:
Cardigan; own design, scale print jersey knit
Top; Ezibuy
Skirt; Vogue 7303, olive green corduroy
Leggings; Metalicus
Boots; Sunday, Andrea & Joen, from Uggys in Dunsborough

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“Moody Milkmaid” … refashioned

Call me crazy.  I am crazy.  I’m insane.  Sometimes I swear I am a complete and utter lunatic.  I took my photos this morning and posted about my skirt (see below).  I even posted on Wardrobe Refashion.  I kept looking at the photos.  I wasn’t happy.  My skirt looked somehow unsatisfactory.  The original Celine skirt has a waistband.  I knew this.  I made a conscious decision when I made my skirt that I wouldn’t have a waistband.  I didn’t want to do a complete knock-off, for heaven’s sake.  But my skirt looked … wrong.
So I attacked it.  I know!  Crazy!  After finishing up in the office, I took up the unpicker and removed the facings from the skirt.  By some miracle there was just enough of the port wine linen left to make a waistband.  Ironed on the interfacing.  Took in the waist darts front and back to bring the top up to waist level.  Attached the waistband, sewed a buttonhole, and added an old button.  You know what?  It looks so much better now.  Celine’s Phoebe Philo was right.  The waistband was necessary.
(This photo was taken about seven hours after this morning’s photo.  Crazy woman!)

Details: same as this morning!!!

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“Moody Milkmaid” skirt

I know I’m not the only one to be completely inspired by the Celine spring/summer 2010 collection.  A deceptively bare collection, almost monastic in its simplicity but oh-so stylish and oh-so now.  Minus the fussy design details and opulent prints that have marked recent collections of other designers, marking defiance in the face of economic crisis; what Celine has realised, in a perceptive streak of genius, is that women do not want to look “fancy” in times of financial hardship, but casually glamourous in well constructed and quietly tasteful apparel.
This skirt first caught my eye when I saw it in Vogue, and I instantly wanted something sort of like it.  Not wishing to buy new fabric I made do with scraps and leftovers.  This is the tawny port linen, left over from the shirt I made for my husband here.  The contrasting bias binding I used for around the hemline and for the welt pockets is leftover from the crown blue linen that I used for my husband’s new shirt, which is nearly-but-not-quite-finished, (should be able to show this off tomorrow.)  I’m pretty proud of this skirt since I drafted the pattern myself!
I really like how in Celine’s styling of this outfit the bottom of the white shirt worn can be seen poking out of the bottom of the skirt, a sort of ersatz petticoat effect.  I don’t have a shirt long enough for this look, and besides I made my skirt longer than the Celine version which is way too short for my tastes anyhow, so I wore my skirt today with a long petticoat underneath to get the same feel.  Looking at my picture I think I look a little milkmaid-y. My husband suggested “The Hills are Alive” as a title.
Btw, my hemline looks a bit wonky in this photo, please let me point out this is thanks to my posture and the way the skirt is sitting, and the hemline is actually PERFECTLY straight!!

Details:
Skirt; drafted by me, linen
Petticoat; Metalicus
Top; Cotton On, tossed out by my daughter and rescued by me
Shoes; Sandler, op shop

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Felted wall hanging

Another felted thing.  I made this last year some time.  This is hanging on the wall in our front room, to be admired by visitors (hehe).  I really enjoyed the process of making this because by this time I had worked out how forgiving felting is and that you really can’t mistreat it; as long as you’re working with colours you love you really can’t go wrong here.
I envisaged this to be a sort of textile visual document in no language, a sort of crafted poem; a felted “page” with embroidered strokes and/or marks and dashes making a “text” on its surface.  I like how the the progression of colours turned out in the felted background and intended the vertical stitches of the embroidery as a kind of visual progression of colours and form in themselves… They bring to mind the tally of days that long-term prisoners scratch out on their cell walls; or the painted wall markings that are sometimes found in pre-historic caves, the homes of primitive people.  This could be a document from an undiscovered isolated culture, made by a people who use fabrics for their record making, and a language of strokes with colours, height and spacing forming an alphabet.
I sewed a bit of thick-ish wire across the top at back to stiffen it so it wouldn’t collapse when hanging, and it’s hanging from fishing wire which is almost invisible so the piece seems to be floating against the wall.  The size of this is roughly 52cmx28cm  (20.5in x 11in)

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