Tag Archives: Shirtdress

snuggly dress/shacket

I made this very snuggly and cosy shirtdress/jacket thingummy recently, the pattern is the new Fibremood Ildri … I think it is called a shirtdress, but it can obviously be cut shorter as a shirt or jacket too.  btw, while it has a second version pictured here, when I got it the pattern only had the first, long version with covered button band..

I used a piece of quite fluffy, brushed cotton that I bought from the pyjama fabric section of Spotlight, several years ago now… and cut my dress as long as I was able!

The pattern is quite nice; with a self-faced yoke that I did with a burrito finish … such a nice finish.  I can’t believe I used to hand stitch these down with most of the mens’ shirts I made back in the day, before I discovered it.  The button band is hidden with an extra flap; I kinda like this but because my fabric is quite fluffy I worried for quite a while that it was going to be too thick to be workable.  Fortunately it worked out just fine, but I agonised over this quite unnecessarily for much of the construction process.  And is it even necessary to hide the button band?  Is the button band ever so ugly that one feels the need to shut it out of sight like this?  Why are we choosing such hideous buttons that we think; oh well, this should clearly not be seen by the general public! I’m a little unsure where I stand on this detail, that’s not even very visually interesting.  Don’t mind me, just ranting for no good reason.  I used press studs, which are not bulky and you can’t even see them because of the hidden button band anyway.

Anyway.  I added side pockets, of course, as well as the breast pockets with flaps, that are in the pattern.  The collar is quite a nice size, and sits well.  The sleeves were a bit bland on their own, in my opinion, so I threaded a little elastic through a cuff to bring them in.  I like having my sleeves shoved slouchily up to my elbow like this, I think it looks cool and it keeps the warmth in.

I cut the side edges in a curve, which is a small detail that I always like in a shirt/shirtdress.  To be honest, it’s way too short for me to ever wear it as a standalone dress, so it will be more of a shirt/jacket in my own wardrobe.  I do really like it though!  We’ve had a very up and down start to spring this year, some days delightful, other days blustery and freezing…  and it’s been lovely to have this cosy thing in rotation.  For some reason, I think of black and white as being a very spring-time combination of colours to wear, and this fits in nicely.

To belt or not to belt? that is the question.  This is how I wore it yesterday… I think I prefer it belted mostly, but this makes the pockets practically inaccessible… !

worn with:

my black stretch Burda jeans…  and then self drafted mini, and one of my recent ivory merino Pinjarra tees

In maintenance news; I made this, in my opinion; really beautiful bra with 2 sets of matching knickers set several years ago, and white the bra is thankfully still in excellent shape, the foldover elastic on the knickers had given up the ghost.  That’s thing about foldover elastic, it really does not have the stamina of others and doesn’t last very long.  I think it’s ok to use it as an aesthetic choice, but remember that it’s not going to do such a good job in the long run.

Anyway, I decided to run up two new pairs of knickers to match the bra.  Obviously I didn’t have any more of that pretty Liberty jersey, but I did have a big-enough remnant of reasonably well-matching blue jersey from which I managed to cut out two new pairs of Watson knickers.  I cut out a few small flower motifs from the old Liberty knickers and hand stitched them on too, just for fun.  This was a very small project, barely worth blogging really but I’m so happy with it!  Sometimes small things can make you really happy.

 

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Japanese linen-gauze shirt dress

My dear friend Yoshimi sent to me a beautiful birthday present last year; some really beautiful, deep indigo blue linen gauze…   The colour is quite glorious, not a solid colour but mottled and variegated with plenty of depth and character; and the texture is ultra light and sheer, quite breezy and with a slight stiffness very similar to organza.  It’s utterly lovely.

   

It’s taken me quite a while to decide what to make with this precious stuff…  I would take it out and pet it, thinking of a million options.  I layed out several different patterns onto it, only to pack them all up again… obviously it had to be perfect, also I really wanted to make the absolute MOST of every little bit using a pattern resulting in as little waste as possible!  I finally settled upon this Burda pattern, Shirt Dress 03/2016; 112B, The pattern pieces fitted on my piece of precious fabric PERFECTLY!!

However.. modifications happened along the way.  Of course they did.   My dress has the same bones, but the original is actually a very boxy design, with quite a pronounced dropped shoulder.  I’m sure it’s a lovely design for the right fabric; as in, something with plenty of natural “flop” that allows those shoulder seams to drop gracefully down over your upper arm.

My fabric doesn’t want to flop in the slightest; while super-breezy it stil has quite a bit of oomph and structure.  It works beautifully in the tailored details of a shirtdress, but really the shoulders did not drape in the desired manner at all…  So I ended up taking quite a bit of width off from each shoulder and side, and slimming down the sides of the dress bodice too, so my final dress is more like a gentle A-line shape.  I couldn’t say I “self-drafted” the armholes, that just sounds terribly pompous when it was basically just tonnes of super careful pinning and multiple tryings-on.  I’m so so happy with the final result though.  I think the more fitted, yet still loosely relaxed shoulders, the slimmer bodice and A-line shape is perfect for the fabric.

Other alterations: I inverted the pleat the other way in the centre back, also left off the placket to hide the buttonhole band.  Fun fact; my pattern is the German version, and while I plugged the instructions into Google translate I actually couldn’t make head nor tail of them, haha!!  I think I’ve made enough shirts that I managed to put it together ok though  🙂

I LOVE the sleeves which are unchanged from the pattern, they’re only very slightly gathered at the top, and blouse-y at the elbow, with deep pleats taming that blousiness into the bands.  I also love the petite little collar.  The collar stand is the tiniest I’ve ever made, so skinny and narrow, only about 1.5cm deep.  I was slightly terrified how this would go, fortunately, the linen gauze was an absolute delight to sew and eased beautifully everywhere I asked it to.  Like sheer heaven.

I found these awesomely cool yet delicate brass buttons at Fabulous Fabrics.  I’ve previously used these very same buttons before, on my khaki linen “army” shirt; five and a half years ago!!  I’m so glad they still are stocking these; they’re quite old-fashioned-y, a bit dinged-up and antique-y looking, so very much to my taste!

I also made a little matching belt, which is basically an interfaced waistband with just one button and two buttonholes.

With the fabric being the divine will o’ the wisp that it is, my new dress needed a slip; so I hemmed it so as to work well with my ivory crepe Ruby slip.  You can see the slip when I’m wearing it, but hey; you were going to see any slip I wear with this ultra-sheer dress! so it may as well be a nice one!  I really love the way the ivory underneath lightens and brightens and highlights the variegated blues and really brings them to life.

I absolutely adore my new dress; thank you so much, Yoshimi!!

       

Details:

Dress; Burda Shirt Dress 03-2016;112B slimmed down a bit, Japanese indigo linen gauze
Slip; pattern scissors cloth Ruby Slip, a free pattern available here; ivory crepe, details of mine here
Shoes; made by me and my own design, details here

Location, the Crawley boatshed, Crawley, Western Australia

yes; it was blowing a freaking gale, not really ideal but I had the photo opportunity so *shrug*…

Funny story; this is a very popular spot for wedding parties and also for tourists to stop and take pictures.  I rocked up and there was a Chinese man taking pictures, so I waited at a little distance for him to finish… once he had I went over and put my camera on the steps.  However he hung around for a bit, then came back and started gesturing to his camera and at me; at first I thought he was asking if I wanted assistance with my pictures and I assured him that I was fine, gesturing that I had my remote, etc.  However, no! what he wanted was for me to be in his pictures!!  eeeek! he demonstrated where he wanted me to stand and how he wanted me to pose, gazing up into the sun and beaming like a stereotypical sun-worshipping Aussie.  He took quite a lot of pictures, so if you ever see me popping up in some Chinese guy’s holiday photos, that’s why!!!

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