Monthly Archives: February 2011

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Gloves: cutting out, seams, and putting in the thumbs

Cutting out:
It’s probably not necessary for me to go into a lot of detail here about how to cut out pattern pieces, it is pretty straightforward and the same as any other dressmaking pattern, but with a few little reminders…  
I think a very important thing to remember when cutting out glove pattern pieces is that you will be sewing 3mm seams.  These are tiny little seam allowances here… so if you are like me, and as a time saving exercise mark your marking points with a little snip into the seam allowance then you will have to re-think this one.  I went back to the old ways that my mother taught me, and earmarked those little triangles by snipping them out… so they are little points sticking outside the seam allowance like a tiny shark fin on a smooth sea.  I was pretty pleased with myself for remembering to do this… and didn’t just steamroller in and snip them in like normal!

Also, remember those wince-y little gusset pieces? well I just knew they would get all mixed up as the differences between the three pieces are extremely subtle, so I left cutting them out until I was actually using that particular gusset piece right there and then.  When working with teensy little fiddly pieces I find this approach to be far less stressful.
So leave them be, for the time being…



The first step is to stay stitch down around the bottom of the finger bits, and I was lazy here and just used the thread that was already on the needle which happened to be black.  Plus I wanted it to stand out for the photo here, so we could see it… but later on I heartily wished I had used matching thread.  The black does show through a tiny bit.  I regret this.  Important tip; despite that you are treating this as a muslin, if, like me, you entertain a tiny hope that these gloves will be wonderful enough to live permanently in your wardrobe…  treat them with the same respect you would if using your final fashion fabric; use matching thread!

The next step is to cut down each finger “valley”

And next, (on my particular glove choice) I topstitched in place those three short slanted rows across the back of each hand.  Yes, I remembered to use matching thread here.  I just love this type of stitching that is mimicking the delicate tendons on the backs of one’s hands, I think it is a charming feature that looks prettily old fashioned and sweet.

Seams:
The seam allowance on my pattern is given as 3mm.  I decided to be super accurate and use my fading pen (still got it from my quilting days) and draw in the seam allowance for me to sew over.  Two reasons for this: a 3mm seam allowance is too tiny to be even marked on my old machine; also a 3mm seam is not one I ever use so I am unfamiliar with it and didn’t trust my eye to gauge it.

The fabric I am using is a type that my machine doesn’t particularly like and traditionally likes to chew up, particularly when I am asking it to start sewing a tiny little seam from the edge of the fabric… so I sewed most of the seams starting in the middle and ending up on the edge of the fabric.  This approach works well and I don’t run the risk of a chewed up edge.  My machine doesn’t have the same problem with the end edge of a seam…  (note to self; should have used matching thread… but at least you can see what I’m talking about here)

The thumb:
So, once I had finished sewing the thumb seam I turned it right side out for a quick visual check.. and see how it has a rather horrible pimply little bump sticking out at the folded corner on the right?

Went back and resewed the end to be more tapered and dart-like for a smoother non-bumpy finish on the outside…
Much better, yes?
I’m all thumbs…
Next step: I inserted those thumb pieces in to the corresponding thumb hole in the main glove pieces, matching up the tiny shark fins.  I pinned and basted this bit quite carefully as I was anticipating it to be quite tricky, but it turned out to be surprisingly straightforward and not even particularly fiddly.  

And I’m not sure I would even bother basting this bit next time.  Apart from the problem with not using matching thread (grrrr… cross with myself) on the outside I can see some of the basting stitches interfering with and marring the perfectly even stitches of the machine stitched seam  (see below).  It’s not super obvious, but these tiny imperfections bother me a bit

A fitting aspect of this thumb that concerns me a trifle is that it extends out much further into the main glove area than I anticipated.  Perhaps next time I will make the thumb hole a bit smaller, and the thumb piece a tiny bit shorter…?
What do you think?  Do you think the seam should be closer to the base of the thumb?
Tomorrow; fingers!
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Gloves: assessing the pattern

I was planning to call this glove-making challenge something witty and metaphorical, like “Throwing down the Gauntlet” or some such cleverness, but then I decided… nah, just go with simplicity.  After all, making gloves is complex enough without a fancy schmancy title to put people off…
so without further ado here we go.

Pattern:
I am using Vogue 7949, a pattern for unlined gloves, with nine variations.  However hands are hands, and I’m sure the basics of glove making will be very similar, if not the same for most patterns.  For this first effort, I am going with view A, an elegantly gathered, nearly elbow-length glove with three short rows of attractively slanted pin tucks stitched on the back of the hands. (the silver-grey ones on the left of the middle row)
Fabric: 
The pattern stipulates that a stretch fabric should be used, recommending stretch velvet, stretch satin and stretch synthetic leather or suede.  Synthetic leather or suede is recommended for the contrast trims on a few of the designs, namely the wrist skirtlet (? is there a proper name for that?), which is an area that obviously doesn’t need to be stretchy.
So in my initial trial run of this pattern I am using cotton jersey knit with some stretch in it; and was ultimately planning to make myself suede gloves, using an old skirt that I found in an op shop.  The suede is obviously not stretchy, but I shall cross that bridge when I come to it…  I do have some non-stretchy leather gloves already that are fabulous and when the time comes I will size up how to go about using this pattern to make my own..
The pattern has this handy guide printed on the back of the envelope that Vogue supplies on all its stretch patterns so you can assess whether your fabric is suitable… on too many occasions I have been known to ignore this guide but completely, but as gloves are new territory for me I am obeying the instructions for once!
A folded piece of fabric should stretch from this width:

to this width… check!
Sizing: 
Now this is where I ran into a bit of confusion.  The gloves are supposed to come in three sizes, small (18cm), medium (20cm) or large (23cm).   Now, I searched and read everything there was to read,  all over the pattern envelope, the pattern instructions and the pattern tissue itself, and do you think there is any guide anywhere as to “what” on my hands I should be measuring to decide which one I correspond to???  Nothing.  Not a clue.  So I was a bit mystified as to what those measurements signified, but I went ahead and measured the proportions of my hands anyway…
Each measurement, the length of my hand, and the circumference of my hand measures about 19cm, which I’m guessing puts me roughly in the small to medium size.  This is interesting, because I nearly always best fit the large size when I buy readymade gloves, but pushing on…
Turning to the pattern pieces now,  and hey do you know what, the actual “size” of your hand really doesn’t matter at all, because when you look closely, you see this:
This is the pattern piece 1, for glove A in all sizes, and can you see, the pattern is pretty much completely ungraded for any different sizes, oh sorry, the length of the arm tube itself has been thoughtfully graded for us (seen at the right of the picture), very helpfully a few centimetres has been added on for the medium size and a few more for the large size…..?????  Ha!  Now I get why they stipulate stretch fabrics….!  Of course I’m no size-grading expert, but this seems to be a major fail… why on earth bother with all the “each glove is available in three sizes” advice when it is completely obvious when looking at the pattern that it is a “one size fits all” deal??  Ah well, I’m still determined to push on with this experiment, so not to worry.  I am going to think very carefully and compare sizes against my other leather gloves before I start cutting up that suede skirt, though!
The thumb piece, sizes S, M, and L
Cutting out the pattern:
So I cut out the pattern pieces:
The pattern piece at the top right is the gusset, and comprises the three different sized gussets printed into a box.  Each little gusset is way too small to fit printing all the pattern information onto each one… so as I am a little obsessive about keeping all my pattern pieces ordered, tabulated and neatly under control, plus I pictured those tiny awkward little pieces ripping way too easily, or flying away in a breeze under the washing machine and getting lost forever,  so I retraced off these gussets on to kitchen baking paper.
(hehe, this is pattern piece 10 which I mistakenly photographed, I actually used the correct piece number 3)
Tomorrow, some actual fabric cutting-and-sewing pictures…
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Some funny pictures…

Here are some of the signs that made us giggle around Tokyo…
and btw, these are just for fun and please don’t think I’m poking fun at the Japanese, as I am sure we have unintentionally funny signs here too…
Hope these put a smile on your face, as they did us!
(warning: I take no responsibility for some of the language here…)

boiled “hairy crab”  sounds worth a try, yes?  

This building below totally belongs in Australia, right?  As in “Aussie Aussie ….”
another enticing menu option

I overlooked this photo when I was doing my “shoe” post previously, get a load of these platforms!

In sewing news, I do have few confessions… I made a start on a trial run of the gloves pattern yesterday, and did start photographing the process… but I actually finished the “muslin” gloves this morning… sorry, I just couldn’t stop myself.    I had them all the way up to the last stage late last night, when I realised I needed some elastic, which I didn’t have, so I had to stop working on them.  And then first thing this morning, I had to go out on a work-related errand (translation, husband accidentally left his mobile phone at home and I had to run it into the hospital to give it to him…) and I took the opportunity to nip into a fabric shop to get some elastic.  And finished the gloves as soon as I got home…
So I will start putting up photos of my glove-making experience tomorrow.   Mind you, they are just trial gloves, and I am yet to start on my proper suede gloves.  Happily, my “muslin” gloves are totally wearable and I’m thrilled with them!
And, oh shame of shames,  whilst I was in said fabric shop I also bought some more fabric… 2m of beautiful Australian made winter-white heavy knit, perfect for Vogue 1087, at right.  It was so beautiful and just right for me, and I just couldn’t help myself (in the whiny self-justifying voice of a true fabric addict)
So now, I’m making an official pledge… I will NOT buy any more fabric until I have made up TEN (10) more items of clothing.  I will ONLY enter fabric stores with the purpose of purchasing necessary finishing haberdashery for said ten items, and I PROMISE under pain of … something or other, insert appropriately unpleasant consequences… that I will ABSTAIN from adding to the stash.  The stash will. Be. Reduced!

Another confession…  I know I previously made up this pattern here but that stripe-y dress has already gone into the charity bin.  The fabric I used for that version was hideously cheap and nasty; important lesson learned, cheap and nasty fabric will result in a crappy dress and not in a worthy representation of one’s time and effort.  You’d think I would know this by now.
I guess I did wear it four or five times, so at best it was a wearable muslin?

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The colours of Valentine’s Day

I’ve been off colour for a few days, and feeling blue… but I’m not complaining, as things are definitely looking more rosy today… This evening my husband and I strolled down to the river together for a picnic under the paperbarks to celebrate Valentines Day.  We don’t go out just the two of us very often at all, so it’s nice to make the effort once in a while, no?  
As well, last Friday we went to a BIG party where some good friends celebrated their silver wedding anniversary, so it really feels lately like romantic celebrations are in the air…!  I wore my Sandwich Bag dress and it was the perfect dress for partay-ing in a sweltering summer evening.
But for today, what could say romance more softly and prettily than pink? so I dug out the most romantic pink dress I own and put some pink champagne in the fridge to chill.  And after yet another oppressively hot day like today, it was enough to just chuck some chook on the barbie, chop it up into a green salad, chased down with a few dark chocolate truffles for afters…  a simply lovely feast!
Wishing everyone an equally gorgeous Valentine’s Day evening … 

Details:
Dress; based partly on Simplicity 3745, pink and beige lace
Petticoat; Burda 8071, pink silk satin
Hat; Country Road

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Neutral, but nice

I don’t know why I feel the need to apologise for a neutral look, but I do.  Yah, I know how silly that sounds…. The simple fact is that I’ve tried wearing this skirt with colours both vibrant and muted and it just look all kinds of wrong.  This skirt simply looks so much better when paired with neutral earthy toned colours… so there it is, and luckily I do have a pretty big collection of both pale and dark, drab putty-coloured stuff to mix it up with.
So to answer some comments from yesterday, did I buy myself any shoes when in Tokyo, well the truth is that sadly I did not (cue chin wobble with brave choked little sob.) and why not? So it may not be obvious from my photos, but I am fairly tall, and with very big feet, and the women of Japan are obviously all petite and with dainty little feet.  And after asking to try on about three or four pairs of shoes that interested me and being told in each case that sorry, but these do not come in “showboat”, (not in those words obviously, the sales assistants were all unfailingly courteous and polite, but that was the general message being conveyed here…) I just gave up and lived vicariously through Cassie as she happily tried on and rejected and narrowed down the fabulous array of footwear available to her ladylike little feet.  The good news?  Craig’s shoes actually do fit me, so I just possibly might dare to sneak off with them once in a while…  
So yeah, perhaps I should have just swallowed my pride and asked to try on some of the menswear selection?  What would you have done? 

Details:
Skirt; skirt “d” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, but Natsuno Hiraiwa, silver grey crepe: to see this skirt styled in 6 different ways go here
Top; Country Road
Scarf; a souvenir from Venice
Sandals; Vincenzo, from Soletta shoes
Bag; Gucci
Sunnies; RayBan
Nail Varnish; Fools Paradise, BYS

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Tokyo; for lovers of footwear

The shoes to be found in Tokyo deserve a post all of their very own… if, like me, you just adore shoes you might want to skip this post as it all could be too much excitement…
The shoes, like the rest of the fashion in Tokyo, range from tasteful and quiet and just like the shoes we get here, so not really worth getting excessively excited about, I saw ugg boots everywhere, for heaven’s sake!… all the way through to very extreme.  Since I grew up influenced by the tail end of the punk era blending into the beginnings of the new romantic fashion era, (anyone remember Adam and the Ants…? confession: I was a big fan, yeah)  so I have a soft spot for funky shoes with chains, buckles and a bit of weird and scary toughness in their appearance… but these fabulous examples are something else, no?
Enjoy…

Yeti boots…
OK, those were just a small sample of the fun shoes that caused our jaws to drop and compelled us to reach for our cameras…
Now for the shoes my family actually bought whilst in Tokyo;
Tim’s
Cassie’s
and Craig treated himself to two pairs…
Tres gorgeous and quietly cool, yeah?  I like how each of the shoes has a considerate zip either at the back or the side, so the shoes can be slipped on and zipped closed without having to untie those artistically arranged shoe-laces…  so thoughtful!
Just to summarise my thoughts on fashion in Tokyo…
so yeah, I was fascinated by the extremes of Japanese fashion we saw in Tokyo even though I’m sure I could not get away with it here in my everyday life.  Probably very few Aussies actually could…  The closest a western country can boast of the same type of fashion diversity was the UK; the advent of the mini and later during the 70’s, when London mods and punks challenged a somnolent and boring fashion landscape… sartorially things have sobered down considerably since those times, yes?
I appreciate that not everyone is going to love the complex aesthetics of this sort of anything-goes fashion.  Some of what I consider to be the most visually exciting stuff can send conservative folks into a frenzy of condemnation but truly, those of us really interested in clothing can but admire the Japanese aesthetic and hope that designers here will occasionally depart from the tasteful boredom currently dominating the commercial clothing market.  And to take away just a little inspiration from this sort of lighthearted fashion; which does not take itself seriously and could never ever be described as ho hum.  
And hope the youth of Japan continue to go on being fantastic!
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Burda 7834, a pattern review

I’ve made another little top using Burda 7834.  It is such a quick and easy little pattern, I can see myself using it a few more times, in spite of the fact I will have to re-grade it each time I use it, as Cassie cut it out to a smaller size than I use…  well, it is her pattern so I suppose that is OK…!
This top is using up some scraps; the silver-grey portion is the last leftovers from this skirt, and the contrasting stripe detail was juuuust squeezed out from the the remaining fabric from this shirt.  Oooh, I just feel so undeservedly virtuous and pat-myself-on-the-back-ish when I use up some leftovers…!  like I’ve been a really good greenie and I’m doing just a tiny weensie little bit to Do My Bit in the planetary scheme of things.  As well as satiating my inner scrooge, by getting a free top from otherwise rubbish-y little scraps!
The funny thing about this top along with its apricot mate, that I made the previous weekend, is that although they are entirely different colours, I used exactly the same topstitching thread, and the same colour zip for both tops; pale grey.  How’s that for weird?  Assessing the zips available, this colour was the logical choice in each case…  which goes to show… something, I don’t know what.  Probably nothing.  Except that colour matching follows no hard and fast rules and can be a purely subjective exercise.
So, on to the review…

Pattern Description
Loose-fitting, short kimono sleeved, V-neck top with a central back zip, and separate pieces for arm bands, neckline band and under-bust band
Pattern Sizing
6-16, European 32-42; I made a size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?
I like that it is a very quick and easy pattern, and makes up a cute little top.
I was only a little unhappy that (when the instructions are followed) it is not finished to super high standards on the inside.  For example, the side seam allowances end up visible on the underarm sleeve edge, whilst I would prefer for them to be encased within the two layers of the sleeve band.  Also, the neckline band at the back has to be folded back over the zip tape and doesn’t enclose it within the two layers, which would be a preferable and neater finish.    However if you don’t mind a bit of extra fiddling you can adjust these features to be more well finished off on the inside.  If you are just after a quick and easy little top and aren’t really worried much about perfect insides, then the method given is just fine.
Just an extra thought; doing up the central back zip might be awkward for some who are no longer super agile.
Fabric used:
I’ve made this up once in crushed silk and once in a synthetic stuff with contrasting cotton mix bands, but I think any crisp light blouse fabrics would be perfect.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None.
Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?
Definitely I will sew this again, and I do recommend it to others.
Conclusion:
A nice and simple little top, both in looks and construction.  A useful casual wardrobe-builder to have in your collection.

btw, I just have to say something here, my own opinion… occasionally I come across a review in Pattern Review where under “were the instructions easy to follow?” a reviewer writes something like “didn’t even look at the instructions, lol!” or something equally breezy and dismissive.  In such cases I have to confess I usually read no further as (imo) this is not a review but a seamstress being a bit of a show-off, like the instructions are beneath his/her notice.  If you are not going to even read the pattern instructions, let alone assess them, then your “review” is worth nothing.  There are going to be some beginner seamstress’ out there who will want to know if the instructions have any difficult or unusual techniques, or nasty surprises, etc., before they fork out the money to buy the pattern.   I always thought this was the purpose of Pattern Review, but I get the feeling a few see it as a forum to showcase their creations, nothing wrong with that per se, but we have BurdaStyle for that purpose.  If the instructions are basic and easy to follow, then just say so without the condescending attitude.  Just saying…

Details:
Top; Burda 7834, silver grey crepe-y stuff with striped cotton mix contrasting bands
Shorts; Burda 7723, white linen
Thongs; Mountain Design
Sunnies; RayBan

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Street fashion in Tokyo

Finally, I have sorted through mine and Lisa’s photos to bring some of the best of the amazing street fashion we saw in Tokyo… thank you Lisa for letting me show some of your shots here!  Tim and Lisa got some of the best ones as they were much braver than I about approaching strangers and asking to take their photos.  I got the impression though that many of these gorgeously attired people were kinda chuffed to be approached, after all I guess why go to this sort of sartorial effort if you are not trying to impress people enough for them to wish to preserve an image for posterity?
Enjoy!
All the way from beautifully traditional…  

to the Lolita look…

to tutus and fur…
to the too-cool-for-school young things who hang out in Harajuku; their style distinctly Japanese but otherwise defying description
to pick up the other touches of red in her outfit, this young lady is wearing red contact lenses…
So now I feel like my own clothes are insanely boring… if, like me you find Japanese street fashion to be a fascinating and inspiring example of extreme artistic creativity, then you would love dropTokyo and TokyoFashion … 
(Excepting the second and third pictures which were taken by me, other pictures taken by Tim and Lisa, thank you so much for letting me use them here!)
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