Monthly Archives: August 2011

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Scrumpled leggings

Ta da!  Scrumpled leggings!  You like?  I do!
And I think they fit in very nicely with my current seasonal aim of dressing to suit the natural colours and textures of my environment…
I know this is not a new look.  In fact I had a vague sense of deja vu when I first popped on my new scrumpled leggings… and went off to check, sure enough, here are some Comme des Garcons leggings from 2005 that I can remember being quite interested in when I first spied them in a Vogue magazine.  Yup six years ago… back then I wasn’t into making my own leggings, thinking they would be way too hard.  Little did I realise then how easy leggings are to make!  Also this kind of raaather avant garde stuff never ever ever appeared in a store here so I never bought some for myself.  Perth is kinda sleepy, you see.  Fashion-wise we are slowly waking up, but Harajuku we are not…
Speaking of, when Cassie and I had our fun day out with Yoshimi and Novita in Tokyo, as we parted ways Yoshimi pointed us in the direction of the Mitsukoshi department store, where we had a fabulous eye-opening hour or so oohing and aahing over fashion the likes of which are almost unknown around here. Unknown that is apart from some very expensive European clothing in certain boutiques…  Anyhoo Cassie found a pair of scrumpled leggings like these, and we thought they were so fun and different we bought some.  You’re wondering why I didn’t buy any for myself? well the leggings situation in Tokyo is the same as the shoes situation, if you are taller than 5’6 or have larger than a size 38 shoe, then forget about it
But scrumpled leggings had entered my radar once more…
And recently shams posted about a pair of leggings than she described as “pooled” because they ended up so long, and she liked them that way so left them long.  I liked them that way too.. and thus fully re-awakened my latent desire for a pair of scrumpled leggings…
Super easy.
I used my own pattern that I drafted to fit me, but cut the legs pieces to have about an extra 20cm length from the ankle down, and in a less tapered shape than I had drafted for a tight legging, probably by about 1-2cm wider at the ankle point.  Sorry, inexact measurements I know,the truth is I was kinda winging it…
After sewing up the inner leg seams (simply whizzed on the serger in a matter of seconds!) I cut two roughly 27cm lengths of 6mm elastic.  These were zig-zagged to the inside of the inner leg seam from just below my knee level down to 2cm from the bottom.  Then I just hemmed the lower edge as normal by folding up the lower leg edge by 1cm twice to sit over the elastic and zig-zagged the hem.

(Comme des Garcons leggings at right, image from Vogue Australia Sept 2005, photo by Willy Vanderperre)

Details:
Leggings; my own design, beige knit stuff, from my own tutorial of making your own custom fit leggings here
Top; Ezibuy
Dress; drafted from “Pattern Magic” by Tomoko Nakamichi, of charcoal wool mix, details here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

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Spring has sprung!

Ok, OK, so I know we aren’t supposed to even mention the S word until the 1st September but look at this floral fabulousness popping up all around!  I took all these photos here on my walkies this morning…
and obviously when those first tender buds of spring start to burst forth into colourful pretty profusion a woman’s thoughts turn inexorably to… her wardrobe.  Well, naturally!  To be honest it doesn’t take much of a push for my thoughts to turn to my wardrobe.
The weather is still a tad cold for flinging off those drab winter-y layers, but I’m getting pretty excited about what to incorporate into my wardrobe for the warmer weather that is creeping in.  I’m thinking my new spring and summer wardrobe will inspired by the colours of an Aussie spring environment, like pictured here.  Thus, a dose of sage greens, ivories and beiges (surprise!), some light dresses in muddy neutrals (surprise!) and I have a few sharp bright colours to throw into the mix as well.  A lot of my plans have been virtuously conceived from doing a thorough recce* of my stash, but I’m not going to completely close my mind to the possibilities of new fabrics and patterns and let’s face it, when have I ever?!  However I will attempt to use just some of the lovely fabrics in my collection that have been too intimidating to cut into.
What about you? Are you making sartorial plans for the changing season; whether it be spring, or autumn for the northern hemispheries?  And where do you take inspiration for your wardrobe plans?
*recce; Aussie slang for reconnaisance, pronounced “reckie”

Details:
Top; Metalicus
Jeans; Burda 7863 modified, purple denim, details here
Scarf; jersey offcut joined with french seam, details here
Sandshoes; Country Road

below; a nesting swan.  She’s been there for a few days, so soon there will be cygnets!
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Oh, this old thing…

… and a few more old creations.  (Don’t worry, these are drawing to an inevitable endpoint, as I go forwards through time and eventually wind up at “now”, at which point these posts will finish and you will be seeing new stuff only…  It’s just that one of the goals I set myself was to document as much as I could of my handmade things in this blog, so bear with me here.  This is a finite process…)
This is our little family (Sam on the way) in more stuff I made; Tim’s (Topkids) overall has been seen before here.  I made my dress, completely inspired by the dress (below) in Beetlejuice, do you remember this?  I basically fell in love with this loose long floral dress and set out to make myself close to an exact copy of it for myself.   Fortuitously it worked well as a maternity dress too.  I felt lucky that dropped waist blouse-y Laura Ashley numbers were quite fashionable during the years I was producing children…
The blue floral dress with lace trim that Cassie is wearing is a TopKids pattern.

Below is a four generation picture; my grandmother, mother, Cassie and me.  Cassie is wearing a dress made to the same pattern as the blue one above.  It is interesting how the very different fabrics used give each dress a completely different feel; this one seems kinda “smart” while the floral and lace above give a far more “pretty and dressy enough for a party” feel, no?  Perhaps this tiny set of two dresses makes up another miniature rogue’s gallery (like yesterday), seeing the different looks you can get from one pattern by varying minor details; in this case the fabric.

This little romper is literally the only thing that I made for my own children and passed on to other little relatives that was returned to me (!) but unfortunately without the little blouse I had made to go with it.  It had a really cute pink blouse to wear underneath, with a Peter Pan collar and full batwing sleeves gathered into elasticated wrists.  The little floral romper here has a zip up the centre front and tabs with pearl snaps on the pockets and shoulder straps.  From TopKids patterns.

Below is a  picture of Tim and Cassie on Tim’s fourth birthday (Sam is around by now, but is not in this picture!)  Cassie is wearing a dress that was truly one of my favourites, out of all that I had made for her!  It was of a lovely floral brushed cotton in very pretty shades of blue, green and violet, and had a sailor collar of soft ivory brushed cotton, around which I topstitched on a pale blue satin ribbon edging to enhance the sailor-y look.  I loved seeing her in this dress…. she looks so pretty, doesn’t she?

Below; I am with Tim and a fairly brand new Sam in a baby sling… Tim is wearing a red-and-white fair isle jumper knitted by my Mum, and I am wearing a blue, turquoise, red and pink cardigan with black and white geckoes that I knitted from a pattern, the details of which are unknown, sorry.  It is knitted entirely in the intarsia method, with each section of colour in each row, in individual balls (ie, that is 15 different balls for some rows…), and is possibly the most complex thing I have ever knitted.  Each row of the pattern was different from each other row, as you can imagine.  Even the two sleeves were different from each other!  The main of the knitting is in stocking stitch, but the red and pink sections are in reverse stocking stitch…  my modern-day me is actually pretty impressed with my olden-day more-patient me.  
I am embarrassed to admit that I went on to lose all appreciation of my own time and effort, and painted the entire interior of a house while wearing this thing, which explains some tiny spots of white paint now adorning the front.  Also it has gone camping with us (and I recall wearing it 24/7 including sleeping in it on one particularly cold camping trip) and it has been a bed-jacket too.  I still have it, but needless to say don’t really wear it anymore.  It has slightly felted, through bad washing.
(Later edit; in reply to some comments, it’s a bit hazy in my memory now but I’m pretty sure I made this before I had little kiddies underfoot… just no pictures!)

below; the wrong side, showing the intarsia method of knitting used…
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Burda 7767; a rogue’s gallery

A while ago, Myrna suggested that I do something about rounding up together in one post the number of variations on a pattern that I have made up; as a sort of “hey, look at the number of different looks you can get from just one pattern” kind of a post.  Thank you, Myrna!
I thought it was a terrific suggestion, as I do re-use favourite patterns a whole bunch of times, probably painfully and boringly so from the point of view of people who like to go for new and exciting patterns with every garment.  But to redeem the boredom of going again and again with the same old same old patterns I usually introduce a little something to a pattern to get slightly different garments each and every time.
One pattern I have used a lot is Burda 7767, a basic men’s shirt pattern.  Now agreed, it’s very basic, and seamstresses after a challenging sew usually avoid basic patterns like the plague.  Advanced seamstresses often prefer to go for something with a few exciting variations or twists already incorporated in it.  But just think, a basic pattern is often the best for playing around with and once you have mastered basic sewing techniques you can introduce your own features.  So much more fun!  I do prefer DIY-ing my own features to being spoon-fed a design; and from the sewing-challenge point of view incorporating your own ideas can be a bigger challenge than even the toughest Vogue Advanced pattern, and you will feel more like an actual “designer” in control of your own ideas.
Most of the shirts I have made from this pattern have been for the menfolk in my life; my husband and my two sons.  OK, I admit I have also made one version for me too, hehe…  and unfortunately men love for their stuff to be kinda unadorned.  But you can still squeeze a few little variations in here and there and as long as it is not too asymmetric or “weird” your menfolk will probably consent to wear it…
So here, without further ado, is my gallery of Burda 7767 (so far…)

The first version: just to the pattern with no bells or whistles, pink linen, navy blue topstitching and navy blue buttons.  I was sewing this one as a birthday surprise so couldn’t do any actual fitting.  It turned out a tad too tight under the arms for Craig, but not to worry, Tim has it in his wardrobe (he is not the kind of guy who feels his masculinity is challenged by a pink shirt) and I have borrowed it tonnes of times too.

Version two; maroon linen, with black contrasting topstitching and buttons.  Variations, a curved pocket flap, curved pocket edges, narrow spaced double rows topstitching.  I’ve also borrowed this one on a few occasions, hehe (it’s a good thing my husband is so generous with his wardrobe, hmmm?)

Version three; blue linen with light brown contrasting topstitching and light brown mottley bone buttons.  Variations, arrowhead pocket flap, curved pocket edges, wider spaced double topstitching.

Version four; for Sam, turquoise and white striped cotton with contrasting navy blue topstitching and navy blue snaps.  Variations; double bias placed breast pockets with arrowhead bias placed pocket flaps, shoulder tabs, inner sleeve tabs (so the sleeves can be rolled up like pictured) and snap closures throughout.

Version five; for Tim, blue, black and white plaid flannelette, with navy topstitching and navy blue snaps.  Variations, pieced pocket pieces (to take advantage of that interesting plaid), bias placed arrowhead pocket flaps. shoulder tabs, inner sleeve tabs and snap closure throughout.

Version six; for Craig, white linen, white topstitching and buttons. Variations; one double welt breast pocket with looped button closure, no collar, curved lower hemline.  Yup, I’ve borrowed this one a tonne too…!

Version seven; (blush) for me…, blue cotton chambray, white topstitching and copper-toned snaps.  Variations, double breast pockets with arrowhead pocket flaps, shoulder tabs and inner sleeve tabs, curved lower hemline.

Version eight; for Craig, navy and white striped cotton, yellow cotton, white topstitching and yellow buttons.  Variations, contrasting fabric for collar stand lining and sleeve cuff lining.  Buttonholes sewn on the diagonal, and grouped together down the buttonband in pairs, curved lower hemline.

Version nine; for Craig, green shot cotton, contrasting yellow topstitching, brown mottley buttons.  Variations, of summer weight cotton, with short sleeves, double curved edge breast pockets, arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.  Did an interesting little triangular cut-out feature thingy on the ends of the sleeves

Version ten; for Tim, beige, black and white irregularly striped “scrunched” cotton, with black topstitching and black snaps.  Variations,  sleeve tabs, motif ironed onto pocket, double breast pockets, curved pocket flaps, snap closure throughout, curved lower hemline.

Version eleven; for Sam, black and white check “scrunched” cotton, black topstitching, silver snaps.  Variations, short sleeves with a little tab with snap closure on the edge of the sleeve hem.  Shoulder tabs with snap closure.  Pocket motif.  Bias cut double breast pockets, bias cut (but the opposite way) arrownhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.

Version twelve; for Craig, blue shot cotton, rusty red topstitching and buttons. Variations, short sleeved summer-y version, buttons on sleeve ends, double breast pockets, flattish arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.

Version thirteen; for Sam, navy blue corduroy, navy topstitching, brown snaps.  Variations, made it a tad bigger and longer and out of corduroy to make a jacket-y thing. Double breast pockets, deep arrowhead pocket flaps, curved lower hemline.  Contrasting beige cotton for lining the collar stand, pocket flaps and pockets.  Copied some very cool double hip pockets here that I had seen on a jacket in the surf shop.  Both my boys love these jackets btw!

Version fourteen; for Tim, beige corduroy, brown topstitching (a mistake, should have chosen matching thread…), brown snaps.  Variations, as above, with the double hip pocket thing.  Contrasting blue linen for lining the collar stand, pocket flaps and pockets.

Version fifteen; not surprisingly, I have another one cut out and awaiting my attention!  This one for me.  Stay tuned for this next one…

I hope you’ve enjoyed this little overview of the very versatile Burda 7767, and can appreciate why it is one of my favourite go-to’s!

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Pants as leggings

These rusty corduroy jeans seem to have shrunk gradually over time, and if there is one thing I cannot bear that is too-short jeans.  Ankle-freezers, we used to call them.  Unpicking the hemline and letting them down a touch is on my list of things to do… but in the meantime I have been mostly wearing them with boots like I am here, thus craftily disguising the lack of leg length.  Brilliant, no?  I’m a master at sartorial deviousness, hehe.  To make matters worse, my “top” here is actually a dress. 
Pants-as-leggings?  But what is this?  Aren’t there rules against this sort of thing?  Is this a situation anywhere near as heinous as its evil twin situation; leggings-as-pants?  Well, let us consider…
Leggings-as-pants… no, too awful to even think about it actually.  A case of Too Much Information, for sure.  I can’t see someone wearing their leggings as outerwear without feeling like I have to avert my eyes, don’t you?
But pants-as-leggings, well I have tried this once or twice before and responses have been mixed, but I think that slimline pants can actually be OK underneath a shirt dress like this, which is pretty much the equivalent of a super-loose, super-long shirt.  It’s a rumpled casual look that hints that I have ransacked through the husband’s wardrobe again, but y’know what?  I’m as toasty warm as!

Details:
Dress; Burdastyle magazine 05/2010, dress 111 with alterations, details and my review of this pattern here, plaid brushed cotton
Jeans; Burda 7863 slightly modified, rusty corduroy, details here
Boots; Andrea and Joen, from Uggies in Dunsborough

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Thoughts on washing…

(Trying to get back into the swing of taking my own photos?  Mebbe…)
Something that is amazing about where I live is the ferocity, combined with the brevity, of storms.  It’s funny, my dog is quite protective of me when we are walking during a storm.  She sticks close by, is constantly checking over her shoulder to make sure I am still there, and comes running back to sit with me or even try to round me up if I pause to take a photo.  Well she is a sheep dog and rounding up is in her nature…
You will be pleased to know we walked back through our front door dry, if a tad windswept.  It’s a good thing I don’t have a hairstyle to speak of.
One the plus side, the kite-surfers are having a great day, and washing does dry very quickly around here, yes even during the winter time…
On the subject of washing… how often do you wash your clothes?  You might see that the little olive top I am wearing underneath the black one here is the same one I was wearing yesterday over the blue Metalicus one.  I reason that a top worn against my skin is dirty after a day of wear and needs washing, but that one worn over another top is OK to go for another day.  Obviously underwear, socks and tights are washed after one day of wear.  Dresses and skirts I judge by whether I am wearing tights or a top underneath (probably OK to last another day) or if it has been a hot sweaty day then I will wash.  Jeans I wear for two or even (gasp) three days if I haven’t been engaging in particularly strenuous activities or if it hasn’t been a sweaty hot day.  Not that jeans are ever worn on a hot sweaty day actually… The same goes for cardigans; I will do a wool wash for everybody’s jumpers and cardigan every few weeks.  I’m over the preciousness of my cotton trench coat and it now is tossed in the machine on a gentle cycle, probably a few times a year.  My woollen coat I plan to send to the dry-cleaner…  There is a very small population of one in my wardrobe, (er, my Chanel style jacket actually) which I am too frightened to wash, nor even to trust it to the dry-cleaner!  I don’t know what I am going to do about that thing!
What about you?  Do you have a rigid plan of attack to your washing, or a more laissez-faire approach?

Details:
Jeans; Burda 7863 modified, black stretch corduroy, details here
Olive top; Cue
Black top; Sexy Woman, found secondhand
Scarf; knitted by me, merino wool, details and my pattern here
Boots; Andrea and Joen, from Uggies in Dunsborough

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Doing what I want…

So I did give it a bit of thought (but not much) before I decided to leap back in and sign up again for Zoe’s new challenge, Self Stitched September 2011!
I know at the end of Me-Made June 11 I was feeling burnt out with taking my own photos like everybody else who participated, but then again if there was no difficulty involved then it wouldn’t be a challenge right?  I like challenges, and I like doing this one.
In the days leading up to the last one (or during, I can’t remember now) I read someone’s blog post that was a scathing criticism of the challenge, and also of the blogs who joined in, which did make me question myself and my own reasons for participating.  Do I lose my status as a “sewing blog” (inverted commas are intentionally ironic, there)  if I joined in a personal self-styling process?  Does taking photos of the clothes I have spent time and effort in making with my own two hands, constitute a shallow or egotistical attitude?  I have decided that it does not.  I’m proud that I make my own clothes, and I enjoy styling and mixing up my own creations in new and interesting ways.  Sure, some of my self-stylings work better than others, and I would be lying if I said that I didn’t occasionally look at some of my own outfit photos and cringe, but the truth is the bad outfits and photos have been very helpful to me.  Like everybody, I have got my favourite garments, which I sometimes hang on to for far longer than I should… well the camera doesn’t lie, and has been the impetus for the tossing of several of my less wonderful garments.
So yah… long and short of it; I’m going there again!

I, Carolyn of Handmade by Carolyn, sign up as a participant of Self-Stitched-Sept ’11. I endeavour to wear all handmade, barring undies and tights each day for the duration of September 2011. That is, I will be wearing undies and tights of course, but not of the handmade variety!!’


so, I’m allowing myself RTW undies and tights… neither of which are well represented in my me-made wardrobe.  I have huge admiration for people who make their own underwear but it is not something I have had time to have a go at, nor much interest in yet.  Too many other garments that I can wear for public display are on my sewing agenda for now!

Details:
Jeans; Burda 7863 slightly modified, rusty corduroy, details here
Top; Metalicus
Olive top; Cue (I’ve had this top literally for decades…)
Scarf; knitted by me, originally a wool kit from Calico and Ivy, details here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

(below; random photos I took on our walk today…)

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Little house pillowcase, and old slipcover

I made this pillowcase for my niece when she was born five years ago, and have had it back the last few days for a few minor repairs…
Yes, the patchwork is intentionally wonky.  I am normally very obsessive about exact squares and perfectly matched corners and edges, so this sort of inexact “naive” style was a nice change.  I enjoyed the randomness of it!
The design is my own.  I had the vision in my head of a little pink cottage with a skewiff picket fence in a field of green; but made it up pretty much as I went along, based on a few similar sorts of designs that I’ve seen over the years in homewares magazines and such.  I chose the sharp lime green/hot raspberry pink colour scheme because it was fun and funky; and feminine without being too over-the-top girly.
D’ya wanna hear something funny?  My son asked if it was a Space Invader.  He’s thought it was one for years.  LOL!

The back view… and here it is perched on top of my very first attempt at a slipcover.  Don’t look too closely at the slipcover, because this is years old now.  It has served as a kitten scratch-post more than a few times, and is a bit thin in some places, a bit ripped in other places, has a few permanent stains, and has a few wonky seam-lines.  But I like the less than perfect look of it.  
At least I know no one’s been afraid to sit on it.

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