Yearly Archives: 2012

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A Genuine Leather (ette) skirt

I’ve made another winter skirt.  From the tanned hide of that elusive and rare wild beast; the leatherette.  Classy, non?
Hehe, so I’ve made bags and tablecloths using PVC before, pretty simple beginner’s type stuff; but this is the first wearable garment I’ve attempted from this sort of stuff.  Phwoar!  A first! (self high five)
I spotted this fab leatherette at Fabulous Fabrics, and practically pounced on it.  The colour is a pretty awesome colour for winter, no?  Sorta grey, sorta brown.  Very moi.  There was also a marvellous dirty pumpkin colour, which was pretty divine.  That one was darn tempting as well.  I’ll be honest with you, I dithered.  But eventually I had to choose a colour, just one colour, although it was like having to choose between two of my children.
Oh, it also came in black, but that caused no dithering on my part.  I was dither-less in the face of black.
I used the skirt pattern from Vogue 1170.  I have made the top from this pattern already, reviewed here, but this is the first time I have made the skirt.
I bound all the raw edges with HongKong binding, as stipulated, and although I did buy lining fabric I opted not to use it.  The built-in body and stiffness inherent in this type of coated fabric along with the frictionless texture of the backing stuff means that sticking to tights is not going to be a problem here.  The leatherette is surprisingly soft and pliable to wear, although I can tell it is going to take some getting used to.  I feel almost Barbarella in this.  Modern.  A bit suave and sophisticated; a little bit “cool”.  Very unlike me  ðŸ™‚
above right; those funny fat seam allowances in the small of the back? That, my friends, is my sway back adjustment  ðŸ™‚

The pattern stipulates a hemline facing, which I did, but it was utterly disastrous in this fabric.  With the facing in place the hemline went from previously smooth and free flowing to stiff and awkward and pokey-outy  horrible.  Finally I decided that the best finish was to have the curved edge trimmed as smoothly as I was capable of, and left raw and un-hemmed.  Which is what I did after unpicking the hem stitching, and the under-stitching, and I even rescued the HongKong seaming off the facing also to use for a future project  (waste not want not, and all that….)  That was a whole heap of painstaking unpicking, I tell you.
What else… oh, I made the pockets deeper.  The pocket was pieced for reduced bulk., so that the pocket facings on the outer edges of the pocket are leatherette and lightweight polycotton forms the bulk of the pocket piece.  This polycotton was harvested from one of my old Pattern Magic muslins and was also used for the HongKong seaming.  Unfortunately the placement of the pockets is right on the hipbone, which means that one cannot really use them for anything bulkier than a tissue or a credit card anyway.  Just saying.  But at least the pockets are there!
Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170, “leatherette”
Shirt; my own design, using several patterns, of black cotton mix, details here
Shoes; Perrini (I’ve had these for donkey’s years)
Pattern Description:
Flared skirt has front and back seam details, back invisible zip closing and wide waistband
Pattern Sizing:
4-10.  I made mine a straight size 10.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Well, mine resembles the line drawing on the envelope.  The photo on the envelope is completely featureless.  Black… really??  You can’t make out any details on the skirt at all!
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Pretty, flirty and feminine, resembling a straight A-line from the front view, and then frilly and twirly from the back view.  The angular seaming between the skirt and the front yoke is a nice feature.  I also like that lovely wide high waistband, and the instruction to bind all the internal raw edges with HongKong seaming is a nice finishing touch.  I really like to see patterns encouraging people to extend themselves to use high quality internal finishes like this.
A small gripe, the pockets are situated right high on the hip, so they not really very useful.  Also, in my opinion, the more “twirly” a short skirt is the more difficult it can be to wear.  I added 10cm in length to the lower edge of my lower skirt pieces.
Fabric Used:
PU laminate or “leatherette”, lightweight polycotton for the HongKong seaming
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
 I thought it looked quite short on the envelope photograph so I lengthened the skirt by 10cm.  This meant the skirt facing pieces were completely different to the pattern piece; but that was no biggie, I just used my new longer skirt pieces themselves to cut the facings.  However, I ended up not using them because this method of hemming turned out to be disastrously bulky with my PU.  I went with a clean-cut raw edge.
I made my pocket pieces longer for a deeper pocket, and pieced them to be PU for the facings on the edges, and lightweight polycotton for the central main part of the pocket piece; for lesser bulk.
I removed width in the back/side back seams for a sway back adjustment.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I would sew it up again … and already have!  ðŸ˜‰   And yes!
Conclusion:
A very nice skirt pattern, with interesting seaming and a pretty yet modern silhouette.  However I do think the skirt length as it is in the pattern presents an unbalanced and slightly unflattering silhouette, and adding just 10cm to the length substantially improved the proportions of the skirt.  I think it is visually important that the lower flounce at the back of the skirt be at least as long as the fitted yoke sections above it.  Shorter; the effect is slightly “top heavy”.
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Curtaining skirt

It looks plain, but my new skirt has one fun and unusual little fact about its origins.
The fabric was part of the bundle of fabrics given to me by my friend C from her late mother’s stash.  That’s not the unusual little fact, btw…  actually, it seems like a lot of my new item posts start out with that statement, and yes, I fully appreciate my very lovely friend to give to me such a marvellous gift of fabric, and I am roaring through it at a most satisfying rate! Since using up this little bit I still have about four or five choice pieces left…
But about this piece; it is curtaining fabric.  Complete with the rubber black-out backing and all…  I know, right?!  cue images of sister Maria ripping down the nursery curtains in the Sound of  Music…  but waste not want not, hmm?  There was only quite a small piece of it, which along with the heavy texture dictated a skirt.
I decided to use my latest favourite skirt pattern, the one from Vogue 1247.  Every version of this skirt I have seen on the internet is extremely cute, and I can sense this is going to become another staple pattern for me too…  I love the way it is just like an ordinary little skirt, but has those fabulously unexpected pockets in the front.  Who would have thought pockets in such an unlikely place could be so successful?!
A commenter noted that one couldn’t put anything bulky in the pockets, and I agree, but really you couldn’t put pockets anywhere on a little skirt like this and expect them to carry very much.  They are just about the best pockets one could even think of for a silhouette like this, imo.  I reckon this was a stroke of genius on the part of the designer.  They are perfectly fine for a hanky, a credit card, a mobile phone, and a house key, and really; what more does a lady need?
I added about 10cm to the length of the lower skirt pieces, and flared them just very slightly towards the hemline (approx 1.5cm each side?); and still managed to get all the main pieces of the skirt out of the piece of fabric, but I had to cut the waistband out of other fabric.  For this I used heavy and stiff delustred satin (leftover from my trench coat), and I also had to piece together the pocket lining with some of this same fabric.  The skirt is lined with the leftover poly satin that was also used to line my ivory trench coat… so really, the skirt is like part of a matching set with that trench coat!
Because the curtain fabric is really quite heavy, I hemmed with a strip of bias cut cotton; meaning less bulk because I didn’t have to turn the fabric under twice, plus a longer skirt.  Given how tiny this skirt is already, I was aiming to get as much length as possible here!
Given my mad passion for ivory and other neutrals, methinks this is going to become a much worn little thing this winter…  bring it on!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 lengthened and lined, heavy cream curtaining fabric, ivory delustred satin waistband, ivory satin lining, my review of this pattern here
Shirt; Burda 7767 modified, khaki linen, details here
Sandals; akiel, from an op shop

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Random stooff…

1:  I saw this idea for seedlings on Better Homes and Gardens and thought  awwww, how cyooote!  So had a go myself….  these hold sweet peas (yup, planted on St Patricks Day, thus earning myself a gold star for being “traditional”) and parsley.  After this weekend, the bottoms will get lopped off to give the roots somewhere to escape, and they are going in the garden.  But in the meantime I think they have made quite a nice Easter-y table display, yes?
The two whole eggs were my failed attempt at natural egg dyeing.  The mustard-yellow is a result of being boiled up with turmeric, and that rather grotesque, emo, splotchy, Addams-family-grey one on the right is dyed with blueberries.  I lost heart after this one and didn’t bother trying out the spinach or the beetroot or the red cabbage; this what you can expect when the only eggs available are brown eggs.  I searched high and low for white eggs, even going to the drastic measure of peeking inside the boxes of caged-hen eggs  (eeek, caged??  quelle horreur!)  but no dice.  It seems there are simply no white eggs commercially available any more in the whole of Perth.
So…  the half shells were painted with acrylic paints.
Random stooff 2:
My husband likes to cook, and I graciously let him, whenever he wants to  ðŸ˜‰  He is a very good cook too.  Way better than I.  Way more enthusiasm.  Enthusiasm is good.
Fired up with the urge to create after a Heston Blumenthal programme on the telly, he decided to have a go at the famous lemon tart.  Not just an ordinary ol’ lemon tart, but one cooked the scientific way.  The one that goes purely by temps and times.
So, here is Heston’s version….

And please admire my husband’s version, cooked to exactly the same recipe….

and btw, I am happy to report that it is absolutely delicious!!
So; has anyone else ever tried this or any other of those scientific recipes of Heston Blumenthal?  how did you go?

Random stooff 3:
The perfect nail varnish for Easter?  BYS White with One

And finally, Rs 4; I’ve signed up for Zoe‘s me-Made May…

I, Carolyn, sign up as a participant of Me-Made-May ’12. I endeavour to wear all me made clothing each day for the duration of May 2012′


 although taking part in the challenge this time will hold an added degree of difficulty for me, the specifics of which I will not divulge right now but will become blatantly apparent as time unfolds.  I may not blog each day, like I have done previously for these months, and I may not be able to wear a unique outfit each day although I shall try.  However I can promise some spectacular scenery  ðŸ˜‰  We shall see how we go….
Later dudes!

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Easter Sunday

Fabio wishes you every success in your hunt…
and from me; much love (and chocolate)… and belated best wishes for a glorious weekend!

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Ivory trench coat

My new coat!
This is McCalls 5525, view D.  I have used this pattern before; my first version is view B, pictured here.  My second version here is mid-length also, and has the wide symmetrical collar with a button tab on the collar stand (in case it gets really cold, I suppose, so if you want to button it right up to the collar you can), and three-quarter length bell-shaped sleeves (pictured below).   I also made the in-princess-seam pockets a mite deeper and bigger than the pattern.  Have I said before how much I love this pattern?  Oh my… I can see from the post on my previous version that I stated I would be making this pattern again.  I can’t believe it has taken me this long!  I love trench coats.  I want more!
For my fabric, I used a lovely piece of cotton gabardine in a warm translucent-eggshell shade of ivory, that was in the bundle of fabrics given to me by my friend C from her late mother’s stash.  I knew the moment I laid eyes on it that it would be simply perfecto for a super stylish trench coat, like some of the oh-so dazzling white ones I have pinned from the last (Northern) winter.  Oh, did someone say “shows the dirt”?  Shushhhh!!  Banish those dirty thoughts!  Naturally my coat will stay pure as the driven snow all winter long since I am a master laundress (haha) and never ever indulge in outdoor activities (haha hahaha)  But what the hey, that is why Napisan was invented, no?  Ahh, Napisan, best friend of those addicted to pale clothes…. what would we do without you and your magical cleaning properties?
There was a hiccup to start.  Even though my piece of ivory loveliness was the perfect fabric for a trench coat, I did not have enough for an entire trench coat.   Hmmm.  A trifling setback.  But I resourcefully checked out the bridal section of Fabulous Fabrics… And y’know what? found some de-lustred satin, that was not only an almost pretty-darn-perfect match in colour and very acceptable match in texture, but also was of a thickness, stiffness and weight that was pretty darn identical what my gabardine would be like if block-fused with sturdy iron-on interfacing.  Which I joyfully realised that I then did not have to do.  Score!!!  So I cut all my pieces that required interfacing from the de-lustred satin, and saved myself that extra step of interfacing.  Such pieces being the front facings, collar stand and collar facings, tabs, and the self-fabric belt.  The other pieces were cut from my gabardine.
Funnily enough, I did this exact same thing, using two matching fabrics of different weights the first time I made up this pattern.  Life repeating itself…  ðŸ™‚
For the lining I used a medium weight ivory satin.  This is quite thick too, so I’m hoping this will make it warm enough to wear all winter.  (Please don’t write to tell me how pathetic our winters are.  Yes, even in the dead of winter we are still 2000 miles away from the nearest snow.  No need to rub it in)
The buttons; I did not want perfectly black buttons, and found these at Fabulous Fabrics.  They are a deep deep blue-y charcoal with little flecks of ivory.  They could not be more perfect.
So, I realise this is quite a picture heavy post.  Please excuse that.  I guess I’m a mite proud of how it turned out  ðŸ™‚  And to be fair you need a few pictures to address the all important question of which of these belts looks best with the coat; self-fabric belt (above), black leather belt (below), or even no belt at all (far below)?  Which do you think?

Details:
Coat; McCalls 5525, view D, ivory gabardine, ivory de-lustred satin, ivory satin lining, my review of this pattern here
Skirt; my own design, charcoal jersey knit, details here
Shoes; Misano, from Labels boutique

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A meaningful motto…

a …er, moonflower (?)
( it closes during the day)
munchies masterfully managed…
(rhubarb and pear custard cake)

…  and some mathematical musings for March.

Peekaboo in blue top
Fabric; a gift from my friend C
Pattern; from Pattern Magic 3, a gift (and used previously)
Total cost;  free
Grey Stripe dress
Fabric; $41.90
Pattern; self-drafted
Total cost; $41.90
Grey Stripe Tshirt
Fabric; leftovers from the above dress
Pattern; self drafted
Total cost; free
Bitumen-hued shorts
Fabric; leftovers
Thread; got started on a new 1000m spool of white; $13.95
Pattern; Burda 7723, used previously
Zip; 0.83
Buttons; from stash
Total cost; $14.78

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French fly, or waist stay; a tutorial

Thank you for so much enthusiasm regarding my French fly!  I am very pleased with how it feels to wear, as well as how it turned out.  By the way, I googled French fly and came up with zilch, so either it goes by a different name in (real) tailoring circles or there really are no other online tutorials on this feature.  Could I be the first…?  (omigosh moment)
So anyway, here is the lowdown on my own version of fitting a French fly to a pair of shorts with a waistband.
Firstly, I checked out the inner workings of my husband’s beautifully tailored suit trousers, and saw this…
Basically, the inner button and buttonhole are situated on what is like an inside hidden “belt”, something akin to a waist stay that one would find in a strapless dress with a boned foundation.  The belt is secured underneath the waistband and zip plackets, goes all the way around the waist and the button closure is level with where the top of where the zip pull sits.

Below is pictured the centre back of the suit trousers, and this is one of my favourite features of mens’ trousers; how the centre back seam is all sewn in just one seam; back pieces, waistband, facings and waist stay, all together in one seam.  This means that any future adjustments for fit are very very easy, requiring just minor unpicking, re-sewing of just the one seam, and then either catch-stitching or stitching-in-the-ditch the waistband facing and waist stay again.  Incidentally, ever since I noticed this I have been using it on my own trouser and jeans waistband (and blogged about it in more details here); mostly because it does make for a massively easier fitting.

But on with my own experiments, French-fly-wise…
I cut out two pieces for the zip placket, applied iron-on interfacing to one.

Measure the length of the zip and sewed the placket pieces together to be the correct length to fit my zip, just like a regular zip placket.  The difference is shaping the placket with the “nose”.  The point of the nose has to be at the same level to where the zip pull sits when it is closed.  Turn out the placket, finish the long raw edges together, and put in a buttonhole of a size to suit your chosen button.

Insert the zip placket and the zip, just like you would for a regular zip placket.

Attach the interfaced half of the waistband to the top edge of the garment, just as usual.

Cut two long pieces of sturdy woven fabric on the grain lengthwise to be the hidden “belt” or waist stay (I’m just going to go with “belt” from now on, OK?)  I used some rather nasty, densely woven, very tough black quilting cotton that I bought from Spotlight yonks ago, unusable for any real garment but that has been wonderful for all sorts of pocket lining, HongKong seaming, waistband facing, and a whole host of other hidden purposes.  I cut my two pieces to be plenty long enough to go around half my waist, plus extra, and the width should be double your desired finished belt width plus double seam allowances.
Fold both pieces in half lengthwise right sides together, sew together one of the short ends, turn right side out and press.  Press the whole length in half lengthwise.

Now turn in the waistband facing and hold in place to situate each belt in its right spot…  each with the stitched closed bit at the front and the long folded edge down.  The left front should be situated just over the stitching line of the placket, and the right front to halfway over the zip tape.  Pin to mark their placement on the facing.

By the way, if you planned ahead, you could have the left front of the waist stay/belt inside the zip placket and stitched down inside it along with the zip placket/zip seam.  Because I was still working it all out and trying to think each step through as I was going along, I did not manage to do this for this one (hey, it’s my first) but I would definitely try it for next time.  It would take a bit more fiddling, but I think it could be done.
Stitch the belts to the waistband facing, keeping the front edges of the belts in exactly the position you had pinned previously.  Stitch all the way along to about 5cm away from the centre back seam, to allow for final fitting of the waistband.

Do the final waistband fitting and stitch up the waistband centre back.  Once this is done, measure the belt to fit, and sew the two together at the centre back seam.  If you are like me and always stitch a slanted centre back seam to fit a sway back, then you will have to stitch the facings and the belt pieces together on the diagonal to match.  Below is a very rough and somewhat exaggerated diagram to illustrate what I mean (obviously, the angles should all match), that centre back seam is sewn in a symmetrical arrowhead with the point at the central foldline.  I left out the waistband facing and belt seam allowances for ease of drawing, but they should be sewn with their own little opposing diagonals as well….  This is necessary to get them to sit nice and flat when they are all folded and tucked in place.  Once stitched together at the centre back, fold the centre back of the belt in half lengthwise and press, and stitch the remainder into place on the waistband facing.

Fold the waistband facing in right sides together and stitch the front edges, just as you would for a regular waistband.  Trim corners and turn the waistband right sides out.

Fold in and under the waistband facing seam allowance, and the belt seam allowance, and pin in place. Baste and stitch in the ditch all the way around to finish the waistband.

To complete securing the belt; stitch the left front down firmly, stitching along the same stitching as the placket/zip stitching.  Like I mentioned above, if you had inserted and secured this end within the placket this would not be necessary.  But when done like this, this stitching is essential.

Finally, try on the trousers/shorts to determine the placement of the belt button, and stitch it on securely.  It should be situated so that the front fly flap and zip sit closed and perfectly relaxed.  There should be no strain on the zip (which would mean the belt is too loose)  and no squeezing together at the top of the zip (which would mean the belt is too tight)

By the way, and on a completely incidental note; d’ya wanna see something utterly beautiful?  The inside of my husband’s suit jacket…
These are three fully functional pockets.  I think I would die a happy woman if I ever managed to produce something even half this precise and immaculately perfect.
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Bitumen hued shorts, with French fly

Ta da!
New shorts!
The funny thing about these is that during one of my regular stash sort-throughs, I had picked up this bit of fabric, shaken it out, sized it up, done one of those quick mental assessments (I’m sure you’re familiar with that) and designated it as a new pair of Burda 7723 shorts.  That was months ago.  Then distraction had set in  (I’m sure you’re all familiar with that too) and I had all but forgotten about it.
It was only until this week, doing the one-week-one-pattern challenge, and I was starting to wonder which Burda 7723 thing I would wear today, which would be the privileged “double-up”, so to speak, thus marking it as my favourite, when that potential pair of shorts suddenly popped into my head again.  Of course!  Now was the time…. I made these over the past few days, just in time to be included in the week of Burda 7723’s.
The fabric is very lovely, a very soft linen/cotton mix that crinkles up beautifully from Fabulous Fabrics, with a woven-in pinstripe of motley charcoal and ivory giving the fabric a gentle overall hue of variegated warm grey.  The pieces are the leftovers from this dress (which was transformed into a mini later and given to Cassie, giving me some more fabric to play with) and we had bought even more of this fabric later for Cassie to make herself a pair of trousers, so there were some leftovers from that project too.  Just enough for me to squeeze out the pieces for this fantastic pattern.
These shorts are pretty much made straight up to the pattern, except that they have back patch pockets and are flared just slightly.  Also I incorporated a French fly, after reading and giving some thought to the Waves series on the superior finishes often evident in menswear and lacking in womenswear.  Thinking about it made me decide to have a go at working out how to put in a French fly.
I checked out some of Craig’s really good suit trousers to get the general idea, and adapted the bare bones of the French fly principle to fit into my own pattern.  I did take some pictures during the process so I can do a tutorial if anyone is interested…?
The French fly performs the same duty as a waist stay.  Actually, it is the very same principle…  I know you cannot see any difference on the outside of the shorts, but I do feel like everything feels beautifully firm and pulled in.  What is more, the front of the shorts does sit a lot better with the French fly in place.  I’ve always thought the area right above the zip pull (meaning that bit you grab to pull the zip down) is the weak point on a pair of trousers/shorts.  The little bump of that zip pull, and the small empty space above it and just below the waistband, combined with the fact it is sitting right at the junction of zip/waistband where all the wearing strain is, often causes the shorts to bulge or gape a teensy bit at this point.   Having the French fly has pulled the shorts in nice and firmly right underneath that zip pull, taking the strain off at that spot and allowing the flap of the fly to sit down flat in a more relaxed way.

Details:
Shorts; Burda 7723, grey linen/cotton mix
Top; my own design, embroidered and cut-out ivory linen
Camisole (underneath); Country Road
Shorts; Bronx from Zomp shoes

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