Monthly Archives: November 2013

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Red

So; red dress.
I pinned this dress a while ago because I really loved the little shawl collar and the shape of the bodice and wanted to reproduce it for myself.  I used a particularly nice, crisp and slightly slubby cotton from Fabulous Fabrics and the pattern is based on dress M from the Stylish Dress Book, modified as outlined below. I am pretty pleased with how my self-drafted collar turned out  🙂
It’s always nice to have a couple of fresh, new, cool and breezy little dresses ready for summer and so this one needs no other reason for being, really… but I confess a major reason for making it was also to have something to wear to the Wildcats games.  We got season tickets this year and had barely even entered the car park to attend the first game when I couldn’t help but notice that 99.99999% of the spectators were wearing brilliant cherry red. AAAgh!  Wardrobe alert!  When we were first married a gazillion years ago we used to go to all the Wildcats games but back then no one dressed in the team colours.  You just went along wearing whatever and cheered on your team.  Nowadays the crowd is a sea of red, red and more red.  If you’re not in red you stick out like a sore thumb.  Appropriately hued spectator attire was required, toute de suite.
Actually I do already have one bright red dress but basketball fans generally do not turn up wearing slinky cocktail dresses, ahem.  That would have looked even more weird.  This dress fits in nicely while still being a bit “different” from the mob.  My wardrobe ethos in a nutshell, really!
Additionally the dress has Christmas possibilities.  Festive, yet please note the capacity for accommodating a large lunch and the ease with which it can be lightly tossed on over bathers.  If Christmas Day is 40C like it has been for the past few years then yes.
Details:
Dress; modified dress M from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, red cotton
Sandals; c/o Misano
Some technical notes:  I modified the pattern by adding a gradual Mt Fuji shaped curve to the top of the front skirt and cutting away a slightly less sharp curve away from the lower edge of the front bodice.  To make the shawl collar I spliced together the back and front bodice pieces at the shoulder and traced around the neckline, adding a tiny wedge at the centre back for turn of cloth.  The dress has no closure because it is loose enough to just slip over my head.
I added slanted patch pockets for a change, just because inseam side pockets are taking over my wardrobe and I felt the need for some variety.  I like the invisibility of inseam pockets, but it is nice to have pockets as a visual feature on an otherwise plain
dress too.  These are sewn on at a slant for easy hand access and have a purely decorative folded flap at the top.
I also removed width from the sleeves, so they fit into the armscye with very little gathering.
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on the Map

I saw this awesome world map fabric in Spotlight and just couldn’t resist.  Novelty fabrics just make the best mini-skirts for summer.  Simple and understated but still interesting and quietly eye-catching.  Best worn with a plain white top.
The fabric was sold by the panel, and I used Vogue 1247, splicing the pieces together to make one solid front and one solid back.  I put the invisible zip closure in the left side seam, so as to have as much seamless and uninterrupted flow of map happening as possible, and wrapped the button closure just a bit further along from the side seam and around the corner to the back.  Believe it or not, this looks much better than having it right boom on the side seam, less bulky and gives a more streamlined look. 

 The waistband is faced with plain ice-blue lightweight Rowan cotton, bought from purl soho about two? three? years ago.  Unlined, because it’s practically summer; overlocked raw edges and a bias-bound and hand-stitched hem.  Australia is on the front.
That’s it.

Oh, and also, um, so yes.  It can be seen that my Constant Companion has had a haircut.  A rather drastic one.  The tail.  That was a shock.  Did not expect that.  I’m still not used to it, and am hoping it will actually grow back!  Think I’m going to have be a heap more specific when liaising with the dog-groomer from now on!  In the meantime, she’s answering to Miss Rat-tail O’Skinnypins, thanks very much.
But what do I know; she’s pretty happy.  Puppy-like frolicking ensues  🙂

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 modified, printed cotton drill, my review of this pattern 
Top; the bamboo shoot top from Pattern Magic, white linen, details here
Sienna in summer attire

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the paper doll project

(I’ve pledged to wear only clothes handmade by me this year and to sketch my daily outfits in my Fashionary.  I’m calling this; the paper doll project)

3rd-8th November
from left:
Japanese cotton dress
bamboo shoot top, grey/green layered skirt
watercolour floral dress
blue bell-sleeved top, wedgwood blue skirt
sandy and gold top, ivory curtaining skirt
white trees top, little denim skirt

9th-14th November
from left:
sew bossy dress
navy grid on white top; hot pink linen shorts
folded painted silk IM top, ivory curtaining skirt
Sagittarius dress
sandy top w gold bits, little denim skirt
blue bell-sleeved top, coffee lace skirt

15th-19th November
from left:
Sagittarius dress
sew bossy dress
chequered elisalex dress
wedgwood blue skirt, white Tshirt
grey/green layered skirt, white wrap shirt
watercolour floral dress

20th-23rd Novemberfrom left:
bathers, blue PM hoodie, pink linen shorts, blue bell-sleeved top
sandy and gold leaf top, ivory curtaining skirt
white trees printed/button top, coffee lace skirt
Aquarius dress
red/pink floral skirt, white Tshirt
chequered elisalex

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Sagittarius

 … the sign of the centaur/archer.  
My new dress doesn’t have a centaur, but it does have the next best thing… a horse!  Plus; the requisite bow.  And two arrow(head tab)s. 

Ha!  (mutters sotto voce) nailed it…  😀
This is made using pattern number 35, from Patrones 7, a magazine given to me by Merche in a little exchange we did last year; thanks Merche!  Cassie got to the magazine first and made this little top, and now I have something from it too  🙂

Um, so the dress turned out very… retro, I think.  This was not the effect I was going for, btw.  I was going for modern and summery.  I think I got WW2 era and autumnal.  Slip on a handknit woolly cardigan, put flesh-coloured nylons on my pegs, sensible brogues or wellies on my feet and victory curls in my hair; and this is exactly the kind of ensemble my grandmother would have worn as a young Englishwoman in the 40’s.  I didn’t think the pattern “looked” retro when I picked it for my dress, in fact I thought it rather modern and timeless.  Funny thing.  Seriously I have no idea what happened, twixt design and execution, but something sartorially timewarp-y happened.

The fabric is a mustard silk crepe, originally from Tessuti’s in Melbourne? I think?  I spray-printed a negative-space horse on the front skirt, and random spots all over the remainder of the dress pieces.  The dress is fully lined with silvery grey silk habotai from Fabulous Fabrics.  The greyness of the lining filled me with anxiety at first.  I could have got a perfect colour match if I’d chosen polyacetate lining but I had my heart set on silk habotai and grey was the least offensive choice.  I just went for it… and y’know? I’ve worn it a couple of times, and am so glad I did go with allover silk, because it is seriously sooo beautiful to wear!  We had 34C yesterday, and no kidding I felt like I was wearing nothing, the silk habotai is sheer heaven; divinely light-as-air and fluttery and slinkily gorgeous against the skin. 

Also; the colour.  (Sings) love it!  This project was an obvious contender for my swap, but I’m not going to count it since something else is going to be my one allowed thing before Christmas.  But of course the excellent thing is that both the colour and the style of the dress will fit in beautifully with my autumn wardrobe too.  And I can just enjoy wearing it on its own for now.  Yay!

The bodice is cut on grain, but the skirt pieces are cut on the bias.
Bias cut silk; for both dress and lining.  So yeah, ok; bias cut dresses look great and hang gorgeously, but they hog the fabric like nobody’s business and make for a dang masochistic sewing project!  Now I remember why I only make these very occasionally  😉
I sewed all seams as French seams, using strips of tissue paper to prevent those bias side edges from stretching out.  The closure is by invisible zip in the left side seam, and I stabilised the bias edge first by stitching a strip of the silk habotai selvedge to the seam allowance, like so.  Before hemming I left it hanging up for five days, and it was interesting that the bias didn’t drop out very much.  But it did just a bit; just enough to reiterate the old rule of thumb; yes, always hang a bias cut garment for several days before hemming!

I hand-sewed the sleeves and lower hem in a narrow rolled hem, but I got lazy with the lining and just whizzed it up on the machine.  Not a total masochist, then!

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Wardrobe planning…

…or a more playful and therefore more apt title would be; Fun with Fashionary!  I’ve been planning for my 11 piece SWAP and doodling and colouring-in like it’s going out of, um, fashion?  🙂
Fashionary have released a new sketch panel, which I am using to map out my autumn/winter sewing for next year.  Autumn/winter seems a looooong way off, but winter stuff is generally more time-consuming, plus I reckon it’s a good idea to put in just a bit of thought.  Summer is easy; handful of little dresses, bob’s your uncle.  A winter wardrobe needs to be mix and match-able since you want to be able to layer everything without your ensemble looking like a dog’s dinner.  Thus, planning…

The new Fashionary sketching panel contains two pads; one is for garments alone, the other has the familiar croquis marked for on-the-body fashion sketching; and I used both!  A new feature is that there are some side view croquis.  Although I actually didn’t make use of it this time, I think having the option of a side view could really come in handy.

The sketch panels are a workaday version of the Fashionary sketchbook; comprising loose sheets of perforated, concertina-ed pages and are an excellent tool for the sort of informal playing-with-ideas kind of brainstorming that comes with putting together a cohesive collection… particularly if you are like me and couldn’t bear the thought of ripping pages from out of your lovely hardbound Fashionary sketchbook.  The panel comes in one of three different designs; women’s, men’s and there is now a children’s version.  I have the women’s version, natch!  Included is a card with examples of flat sketching samples, to help you in drawing realistic and well-detailed garments if, like me, you can’t really draw to save yourself, and a page on which to record an complete set of custom body measurements.  Very helpful!  Each set has 8 panels, with 9 pages per panel, and with the templates printed on both sides, so there’re plenty to play with.  A whole tonne of really inspiring fashion artwork created using the Fashionary notebooks can be viewed on the Fashionary site, here and here
Planning a wardrobe collection way ahead is very sensible! and y’know what? I enjoyed it…   I checked out my fabric stash, then sketched out each of my garment/fabric/pattern ideas,  and dealt them out on the table like playing cards to see how everything worked together and see what stood out like a sore thumb.  I had a couple of early definites that got discarded at this point when I could see quite plain and clearly that they were not going to work with anything else.  Too often, I make something that I think is going to be omg so useful, only to find that; um, it doesn’t actually go with anything else.  Mixing and matching sketches of my little collection was an educational rehearsal.  I grouped and regrouped and pulled out the ideas that didn’t fit in.  Once it was whittled down I stuck them onto the wall behind my sewing machine, to keep me motivated and on the right track to get them all done.  Well that’s the plan!

So, the Chosen Ones are…

Two of the things in my plan are a patchworked tweed wool skirt and a mustard cropped jacket, represented as such in the top picture but drawn back to front in the above picture because I’m dithering on those and may swap those two around.  Undecided on that one…  but optimistic about everything else.  The olive ensemble at lower left is a proposed Alabama Chanin project.  Also, there are two plain lightweight white shirts in the eleven things.  That might sound generic and boring, but I reach for a plain little white top a heckuva lot and so I need lots of them!

As per the swap rules I’m aiming for the eleven garments to be sewn between Christmas and the end of April.  This may or may not actually happen  🙂  It’s an experiment.  I may be all like, ooh this is easy!; breezing through the list happily and without disaster… or I may be like, what the heck was I thinking, everything’s totally hideous!! *bale*   I don’t do that much, but I don’t wanna jinx myself here.  Disasters do happen.  Eleven sounds ambitious, but then it is probably no more than I would make in that time anyway.  It’s doable.  
Between now and then I will make a few more summery dresses and things for myself to supplement my summer wardrobe, plus there’s Christmas sewing to think about!

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yesterday…

… I received a belated birthday present from Mum and Dad.
woa.  Further experiments in, effectively, creating your own fabric designs.  Eye candy, indeed.  It’s rare for me to get this excited about a(nother) sewing book.  Ha ha! well, we all know that’s a lie… beautiful fabrics?  a concept that is but always going to reel me in, the proverbial hook, line and all.
Prior to my birthday, Mum had offhandedly asked me: did I like embellishments?  Embellishments.  A concept that has gained a bad rep, thanks to scrappy leftovers rosettes, and sweatshirts sporting appliqued quilting cotton prints outlined in squiggle paint.  I world-wearily said no.  But I’ve changed my tune now.  This is the new and improved version of embellishment, a modern and yet still authentic approach.
Appetite whetters include…

my favourite..
no, actually this is my favourite
no, wait, this is ..
oh hang on a sec… this
omg, shut the front door!  gorgeous!

I would dearly love to get into this.  Could I incorporate some of these ideas into my mini wardrobe plans??  hmmmm, possibly. *rubs chin, glint in eyes* yes, quaite possibly.

(tagged “book review” but really this is just my first impression.  I will write something more in-depth and intelligent once I’ve actually used the patterns and ideas in the book  🙂  )

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Purple jeans; 6 different ways

My purple flares have been such favourites ever since they rolled off the sewing machine; an unlikely wardrobe staple.  Who would’ve thunk purple jeans would turn out to be such useful things in my life??  Ask the ignorant old-me back then and she probably would have been doubtful…   anyhow they have been and I’m rewarding them with a little retrospective.
I made them originally in 2011 using Burda 7863, and in addition to these outfits here they have appeared in a supporting role in several other of my 6 different ways posts too.  A few of the following pics are from previous me-made months, some not…
Below, at left; worn with a rusty corduroy tunic top.  Boy that top was gorgeously toasty warm.  I need another one before next winter; at right; worn with a little self-scarfed top and my brindle knitted cardigan.

purple1a
Below: at left; worn with a purple Tshirt and a hoodie refashioned from a pair of jeans, at centre; with a grey-dyed-yellow woollen top, and at right; with a plain white Tshirt and thongs on my feet.  Admittedly uninspiring, but I included it because this latter outfit has pretty much been my lifetime uniform and so is probably the most “me” ensemble here!
purple2a
Below: at left; tucked into biker boots and with a long white top and my f-leather jacket, At right; and yup, this one does make seven different ways but (shrug)  I almost didn’t include this last picture, they’re on the saggy and baggy side and look a bit awful now, and so faded!!! but I guess that just shows how much they’ve been loved.  Worn with my green jacket-thing (later dyed) and a raspberry jersey scarf.
purple3a
Hmmm; what colour to make next, I wonder… ?
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A horse, and other news

The lovely Yoshimi the Flying Squirrel will be literally flying! and over here!  She has revealed her travel plans, so now I may say something too…  I am thrilled to say that she is coming to visit me on her way to the bloggers meet-up in Melbourne.  I will be so happy to see her again, and am super excited to show her around Perth!  I’m planning for, and hoping that she will have a really wonderful time here, and I know she will have an absolutely brilliant and fun weekend at the Melbourne meetup with TJ and Maria and all the other Melbourne gals too.  Exciting stuff!  😀

In current doings, I’ve been mucking about with fabric paint again today…

I bought this lightweight mustardy-chartreuse silk in ?Tessuti’s? I think? during my girly trip to Melbourne with Mum and Cassie last year and it’s been burning a hole in my conscience.  I’ve reeeeally wanted to make something interesting with it but couldn’t think what and it was fast becoming too precious to cut up.  Finally I’ve thought of something… hopefully this will turn out cool in the end.
My initial grand plan was of a more realistically shaded horse, with sharply defined edges outlining rippling equine muscles and tendrils of mane billowing gorgeously in the slipstream…  those pie-in-the-sky ideas had to be abandoned when experiments revealed that the paint bled like the blazes on this silk.  Oh well.  Embrace the limitations, and all that!  And a serendipitous one; since the splodgily abstract nature of my print brings to my mind the markings of an Appaloosa horse.  Ok, I’m happy!
The technical blahdy-blah…
I drew my design, gave it a grid so I could enlarge it to a good size to fit my piece, and then traced it onto the fabric using water soluble pen, although tracing probably wasn’t necessary in the end.  I mixed a hefty blob of black fabric paint into about 2 cups of water, in a plastic spray bottle… just one of those cheapies you see in the gardening section of the supermarket for your seedlings.    Some experimenting was necessary to determine a good ratio, giving a solution that was thin enough to spray without clogging up the nozzle, and yet had enough paint to leave a mark on the fabric.  
Cut out my stencil and sprayed away.  I also sprayed the other pieces; and as lightly and as thinly as I could, painted in some mane and body contouring streaks with a paintbrush, separately.
 This will be appearing in wearable form, tout de suite… 

In other sewing news, I have decided that I might quietly do a stitchers guild SWAP this year.  I’ve bought a few Australian Stitches magazines over the years and, like lots of people, Lynn Cook’s wardrobe planning was always my favourite bit.  I discovered that following her example was an established sewing blog thing-to-do last year, with rules and a time frame and a competition as well!  man, I’m so behind the times  🙂   
Anyway, I’ve really admired everyone’s SWAP wardrobes, and thought that maybe my own rather random sewing efforts could do with a bit more planning…  so sensible! a new concept for me  🙂  I might not actually enter my SWAP into the official competition… I mean, you are only allowed to make one thing before 26th December, whaaa???  don’t know if I can wait that long!  But I do like the whole idea of following the rules and making a co-ordinating mini-wardrobe.  So I’ll see how I go.  The stash has been raided for some likely looking candidates and I’ve sketched out a plan of attack…
The horse-y fabric may or may not become the first “thing”  🙂

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