Monthly Archives: April 2014

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Nettie; by seven

The very clever Heather of Closet Case Files has released another pattern, this one is a must-have basic, the bodysuit, available here.  Named Nettie, after the totally gorgeous Nettie of Sown Brooklyn.
Of course, I say “must-have” and I didn’t actually have any.  But I’m rectifying that now since everyone knows that bodysuits are super useful and way superior to a tucked in tee when it comes to winter warmth.  So good to have that thermal layer underneath everything else.  I used to have a few bodysuits years ago which did hard duty all winter long but I don’t know if they’ve gone out of fashion favour? or what; because they are pretty darn hard to come by nowadays.  Even patterns for bodysuits are pretty few and far in-between.
Thank you so much Heather, for asking me to test the pattern, and for filling this gap in the sewing pattern world!  ðŸ™‚

Hmmm, seven Netties… seems excessive for one person? well they’re not all for me.  Occasionally I make things for other people.  Occasionally  ðŸ˜‰
The instructions stipulate to size up if you are tall or if you think your fabric is a little firm; and yes indeedy; this.  My first version was in a mystery black knit with just a medium stretch, bought in the Morrison remnant sale, and it turned out a little er, bottie-baring for me!   Fortunately I have a petite daughter who can absorb into her wardrobe everything that is too small for me.  ðŸ™‚  And then I went up a size for me. 

The red, orange, green, pale taupe and white coloured Netties are all in a super stretchy viscose/rayon knit from Fabulous Fabrics; and for this stretchier fabric I didn’t need to lengthen although I did cut the sleeves at the size up.  The fit is snug and fabulously comfy.   

The white long sleeved tee is for my niece; her measurements matched the smallest size on the size chart and so I just ran it up quickly to test the fit.  It was on the tight side for her too; so when starting out I do recommend erring on the side of too big, just to start with.  You can always shave a bit off!
For the crotch closure I used strips of black snap tape; leftover from my Issey Miyake tucked dress.  Obviously it would be every bit as quick to hammer in a coupla snaps though.  Really, the Nettie is a wonderfully quick and easy project, the kind of thing you can run up to wear an hour later.  The hardest part of making the body suits is finding scraps of woven for the crotch bit to match your fabric!  I had nothing matching my green so used self fabric stiffened and stabilised with fusible interfacing.

I did something a bit different with the sleeves on my green one; I made them super long and put in a little thumb hole, finished with a band just like the neckline.  Built-in hand warmers!

The pattern comes with multiple variations; a high, mid and low back neckline, and a high and low scoop front neckline, and with long, elbow-length and short sleeves, and a body-con dress.  And obviously you can slice it off at hip level too and just have a tee.  So much choice!  If I’d had the dress option earlier I totally would have made one of these too…   
I made some with elbow length sleeves and some with long sleeves, and some high neck and some scoop.   I made them all with a high back neckline just because winter is around the next corner here, but I think a high front neck/low scooped-back neck Nettie would be an absolutely stunning summer evening option; worn with a huge oversized flouncy skirt, hair up in a bun.  Imagine!
Also, I reckon if you made it with a closed crotch and a scoop neckline wide enough to allow you to step into it then the Nettie would work beautifully as a dance or workout leotard too.  The sides are quite low-cut  allowing for full bottom coverage and minimal chance of a wedgie wardrobe malfunction.

OK, I’m now baulking at posting a picture of myself in the pale taupe one sans outer layers; with my skin tone the overall effect is just a bit too er, nude?!  but I have worn here it in a daily outfit already  ðŸ™‚
Thank you for a fantastic pattern Heather!
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SWAP; in conclusion

SWAP!  
I have had a mammoth dressup-and-selfie session.  Aaaaagh!  How do models do it?!  Please excuse any grim, loopy, vacant or otherwise weird facial expressions that pop up randomly amongst the following pics. 
The good thing is that I am even more confident now that I have made a fairly cohesive collection and everything goes together pretty much as it should: and most importantly, I actually like it all and know I will enjoy wearing everything.  The former is never a foregone conclusion, so that was a particular relief.  ðŸ™‚
To summarise:  the eleven pieces comprise three 3-packs; that is, three sets of three items that go together; and two wild cards.  My three packs each have one skirt and two tops, and my two wild cards are a dress and a coat.

All the things: and each is linked to their original construction posts.

The Alabama Chanin 3-pack: 

1)   a fully embroidered mid-length skirt
2)  a fully embroidered fitted tank and 
3) a plain fitted tank

The first two are hand-stencilled and -embroidered and all three are completely hand-sewn, and all patterns are from the book Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, by Natalie Chanin.  The midi skirt was the most major and labour intensive item of the entire swap, the embroidery alone taking hours upon hours of my time.  I couldn’t even tell you how many … LOTS! just about sums it up, I think!  The embroidered fitted tank looks deceptively little but was also quite major, coming in second place in time consumption.  I’m almost too scared to wear these two pieces! but I’m pretty stoked with them.  The little white fitted tank was a spur of the moment decision, a substitute for a different sleeveless white top that I had initially planned for the swap.  It was relatively quick and easy, and I’ve already worn it a few times.

The Ivory 3-pack:  

4) Vogue 1170 skirt in ivory leatherette
5) the loose drapey top from the book Drape Drape by Hisako Sato, in ivory rayon/linen knit and
6) Tao blouse, by Tamanegi Kobo, white silk/linen dyed pale cocoa brown

I’d originally planned for my big baggy pockets skirt to be the “bottom” in this group but changed my mind in favour of this twirly little leatherette skirt instead.  I swapped out my swap, haha!  Reason being that I ended up making the other skirt a quite long midi-length skirt, so it has a very similar silhouette to the Alabama Chanin skirt;  this one is very different in length and style to my other two swap skirts and so I decided it adds a bit more variety to the mix.  OK, I admit I realised that only, like two days ago; when I wore it together with my brand new cardigan!  Revelation, and last minute change of plans!  Fortunately I made it within the swap time-frame so it fits in with the rules.    The ivory cowl neck top; I’d originally planned a long-sleeved Tshirt but the fabric was so thin I made the decision to make a double-layered, sleeveless top instead.  The pale cocoa blouse was initially planned to be made with patched-together pieces, all dyed in slightly different shades of brown, but I decided that would be a bit too OTT so I made it plain.  So retrospectively, this is rather colourless and undramatic little group, but y’know what?  I’m very happy with all three pieces, and even more at how they will work beautifully with, like every single thing else in my wardrobe. 

The Autumnal 3-pack; 

7) patchwork skirt adapted from Vogue 8363, made from old jeans
8) hand-knitted Miette cardigan, a design by Andi Satterlund, in aran tweed yarn and
9) top X from the book Stylish Dress Book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori, white broderie anglaise

The sludge-coloured patchwork skirt, well yes, it is pretty eye-catching and more than a bit weird I admit that, but man it’s so comfy and I feel pleasantly kooky and a bit avant grade wearing it too.  The white broderie anglaise blouse; from the very first I’ve loved wearing this nice summery breezy thing! and something like this can be a nice transitional item, worn with more wintery skirts just as the weather starts to cool off just a bit.  I really like the contrast of the delicate white broderie anglais against rough, sombre, rustic patchwork of the skirt.  The mustard cardigan  was supposed to be a jacket, but I’m relieved I went for it as a cardi instead.  

The wild cards; 

10)  (out of print) Vogue 2438, an Issey Miyake designed dress, chocolate brown pin-striped cotton, and 
11) McCalls 5525 trench, charcoal check wool with ivory leatherette piping.

Both made entirely to plan.  I’ve worn the chocolate dress a few times; it’s a simple and comfy, and quietly unusual.  I like it more and more each time, and think it’s going to be a long-term favourite  ðŸ™‚

As well as the 3-packs, I took some photos of other combinations just to show how everything goes well together.  I only took the one photo above with the coat, but that’s OK; it’s a coat and so it will just get tossed over everything when it’s cold.  Otherwise, I think I’ve covered many of the possible wearing combinations of everything.  I might have missed one or two, but yah, I’m OK with that.  I kinda OD’ed on playing dress-ups yesterday and so I can live without photos for a while.  Phew!

So!  This swap is finished.   Please imagine that spoken in the same tone as Poltergeist’s “This house is clean”.

A post mortem… Well, probably it was good for my self discipline to be sensible and methodical, instead of my usual habit of haphazardly and whimsically making whatever my flighty self desires on the spur of any random moment regardless of whether or not it goes with anything else in my wardrobe, ahem!  And I sure do have plenty of autumn/winter things to choose from now!   😉  I really like all the things, and so it’s funny to me that some of them I probably wouldn’t have chosen to make without that plan.   Meaning, maybe it can be a good thing to force yourself to plan and add “usefully” to your wardrobe.  
However, since sewing is my creative outlet as well as a purely practical means of clothing myself, then wild, thoughtless sewing maelstroms are kinda balm for my soul.  And so I reckon it’s OK to indulge occasionally.  Within reason, of course.  😉

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Gold Miette

I have knitted a cardigan.  And weeeeeeee! this is the final thing in my eleven piece swap.   Finished… hurrah!
The Miette is designed by Andi Satterlund, and is available as a free download here.  
Such a great little pattern.  Clearly I love it a bunch since this is my second version in less than six months  *blush*  and I used the exact same wool too; six balls of Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury Tweed Aran.  This time in colour Gold, 360036.   
Actually, the truth is that when I went in to buy the wool for my first Hunter/Forest green version I dithered and agonised for ages between the two colours.   Like, for so long it was embarrassing.  I loved them both.  Finally I chose the green, obviously; but the golden mustard kept haunting my thoughts.  I couldn’t stop thinking about it.  And I knew that it hated being left behind. It really wanted to come home with me too.  Really, it did.
In my original swap plans I had proposed not a cardi but a jacket; in a really nice mustard, open weave fabric which was a Christmas gift from Tim.  But the closer I came to Cutting The Fabric, the more doubt crept insidiously in.  The fabric is really very nice.  I was bound to ruin it.   And thinking about it; I really prefer wearing knitted cardigans to jackets, most of the time.  I remembered the Gold wool.  The colour is identical, and perfect.  Aha!  Swift justification for an acquisition!!  I raced joyfully, but hastily, to the wool store.  What if it had sold out?  But there it was, patiently waiting for me.  Clearly, it was meant to be.  Thus; I made a cardigan instead of a jacket.
And I still have my lovely mustard fabric, which I think would rather be a skirt.  Some day when I get up the courage to take the scissors to it.  ðŸ™‚

Details:
Cardigan: the Miette, in Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury Tweed Aran col. 360036 Gold)
Top: the loose drapey top from Drape Drape, in rayon/linen knit, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1170 in ivory leatherette, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

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Inside Out

Meggipeg alerted me to the fact that today, 24th April, is Fashion Revolution Day; thank you Megan! and it was lovely to finally hang out together, in person  🙂
So I am wearing my dress and my cardigan inside out for the day.
A year ago today the Rana Plaza garment factory in Bangladesh collapsed killing 1133 people and injuring over 2500 more.  Fashion Revolution is suggesting that out of respect and acknowledgement we wear our clothes inside out to display the hidden inner workings; the labels, seams, hems and bindings that seamsters labour over.  If you bought your clothes readymade there are more things you can do; outlined here.
Generally I stay away from political and social conscience opinions here on my blog, although in person I can be quite the bore on a subject once I get going!  Don’t get me started!  However the issue of ethical manufacture of consumable goods, particularly clothing; is dear to my heart and one of the primary reasons why four years ago I started down this rather bizarre path of eschewing ready-to-wear clothing entirely and of making with my own two hands just about every item of my clothing that I possibly could.  I don’t know if it was a sensible or reasonable decision; but it felt like a good idea at the time and years later it still does, so I’m going along with it, still.  I can make my own, so I do.  It was my own decision and I know not one that another person would or could make.
Wearing your clothes inside out for a day may not seem like much at all in the scheme of things, but may make more people aware of the questionable ethics of “fast” fashion.  A day of tweeting to brands may make a difference, and I hope so.  People may treat it like an amusing distraction in an otherwise uneventful working week, but any action that makes people think twice is a good thing.  For me, I do think about the ethics of clothing manufacture a lot but the reality is that the greatest hardship I will undergo today is going without the use of my pockets.  Also, maybe someone will point out that my clothes are inside out, but probably not.  People are quite polite around here  🙂

Details:
Dress; dress M with minor modifications, from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, red cotton, details here
Cardigan; knitted by me, Jo Sharp fitted cardigan in Soho Summer dk cotton, colour Calico, details here
Scarf; a strip of cotton jersey
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

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“Baseball” skirt and tee

This is just a bit of silliness really; remember I said I had some idiotic plans for my leftover off-white leatherette? well I just hopped straight into it.  This is a new skirt, leatherette with red stitching to delineate the seam lines, baseball-like.  Yeah I know, kinda weird; and I’m still wondering if I ruined the skirt with that stitching! but it’s just a bit of fun really.  I figure if I absolutely hate it down the track I can always pull out the baseball stitching  ðŸ™‚

I used this picture to help me

The pattern is Vogue 1170; my fourth iteration of this pattern.  I chose it because it had lots of seam lines! and I lengthened it as much as I possibly could given my small piece of leatherette.  Actually, this is a good skirt for a smallish odds and ends of fabric; surprisingly good considering its flippiness.  It’s only the two large front-and-back pieces that take up the most fabric; the smaller pieces can be cut out of edges and corners and other off-cuts.  I left off the pockets and fully lined the skirt with cream polyacetate lining fabric; and I cut the waistband a lot narrower and on a curve to follow the curve of the skirt top.  This resulted in a much better fitting waistband than the original straight one, imo.  Also, I’ve learnt my lesson from my previous leatherette skirt where I found the leatherette waist facing kinda icky worn against the skin; and cut the waistband facing in white linen.  Much nicer!

The stitching is in red silk thread, which I’ve had for years… er, 21 *blush* but who’s counting!  ðŸ˜€ a leftover from knotting Tim’s quilt; and a small portion in matching red topstitching thread, which I ended up having to buy new (grrr!) when I didn’t have just quite enough of the silk.  Don’t you hate that!!
I did the stitching in two passes, first time you do alternate halves of the “wings”, and the second pass you finish off the other side of each one.

And because a baseball skirt needs a baseball tee, I made one; just because  ðŸ™‚   I used two old Tshirts from my refashioning bag.

OK, I thought that this is what a baseball tee looks like; but imagine my disappointment when I googled images of baseball players to see that they actually don’t wear this sort of two-coloured raglan-sleeved tee at all! but instead have a big baggy short-sleeved top, sometimes with a close-fitting long-sleeve top underneath.  NO raglans to be seen.  Confused!   So; why is a tee like this known as a baseball Tshirt, when actually it is not?!  I would love to be enlightened.  Anyhoo; I made it from from my own custom pattern, using an old raglan sleeve tee to help get me started and then fiddling and fine-tuning to fit me.  The embroidered motif on the front of the blue Tshirt, I positioned on the back of the new Tshirt.  It was either that or cut it in half, and even though my new tee is a cobble-together job, doesn’t mean it has to look like one!

With the neckline binding; I cut strips from the sleeves of the cream tee and joined them to get one long enough to do the neckline.  And this time I cut the strips with a bias joining edge: you can just barely make out the join in this picture.  This gave such a vastly superior finish to my usual method of joining on a straight seam!  and I can’t believe it has taken me sooooo long to work out this might be a better thing to do.  Up until now I’ve used a straight joining seam, and the bulkiness of all the layers in that bit make for a slightly bubbly and bumpy bit at that spot on the neckline.  So I hide this by positioning it at the back of the neck somewhere; but if the seam is on the diagonal, like here, then there is less bulk and very little bump issues.  Don’t know why it’s taken this long for the lightbulb to go off, but better late than never  ðŸ™‚

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170 with minor modifications, off-white leatherette with red decorative top-stitching; my review of this pattern here and my tips for working with leatherette here
Tshirt; self-drafted, made from two old Tshirts
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

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Piped trench

I have made a winter coat for myself!  It’s a dark charcoal woollen trench with the seaming and edging accented in pale grey/ivory/bone pleather piping.  The charcoal wool has a light gauzy check woven throughout; itself with a teensy houndstooth pattern woven in each window.  Clever.  Seriously, I often wonder how they make these fabrics.  Who would have conceived a thin houndstooth gauze, woven tartan-style into wool?

The pattern is McCalls 5525; my third version of this pattern.  This is such a great pattern; I completely love it!  It’s so versatile.  Each of mine is quite different from the others; my first version is a smart but pretty-ish thing for winter and early spring, the second one I like for winter evening functions when I want to look glam.  I don’t know what function this one will fill yet.  I would like it to be a just throw on over and go with anything and be instantly warm kind of a coat; but we’ll see.  The piping is a bit distracting.  Hopefully I’ll find it good for something  ðŸ™‚

I bought the fabric a few years ago from a shop called Wool on Collie, in Freo.  At the time it was mostly a knitting and crochet shop, with a very small token offering of fabrics.  I bought it on a mad whim.  The leatherette is from Spotlight; and was also bought on a mad whim.  Me and my bold plans.  I have to confess that the leatherette piping tested my patience and sorely depleted my fun-meter once or twice.  And I feel like unless you get up really close and have a good nosy squizz; you can’t even tell that the damn stuff is leatherette.  Should I have gone for some easy-to-manipulate fabric?  Well, what is done is done; and I’ve learnt new things.  The plus is that there’s quite a bit leftover, and I have some idiotic plans for it….  which may or may not eventuate 😉
The coat is fully lined in black acetate lining fabric from Fabulous Fabrics.  The pale grey, slightly streaky buttons from Fabulous Fabrics are a fortuitously perfect match to my leatherette.  A lucky find!

I’m pleased that my coat is finished, but I was feeling a little flat about it at first.  Y’know when you spend hours and hours meticulously fiddling with something and then aren’t sure whether you even like the thing at the end?  Yeah.  Although I actually like it a bit more after seeing these “another person’s view” pictures of it here.  It looks a little better here than I thought it did in the mirror.  I’ll admit to almost hating it in the few days since I finished it, and only hauled myself into it to take pictures out of a sense of duty to my swap.
Maybe it’s just that the forecast is 29C today and I feel like a right dork putting on a thick winter coat. 

Details:
Coat; McCalls 5525, charcoal wool with leatherette piping, my review of this pattern here
Skirt; Vogue 7303, ivory wool (old)
Camisole; Country Road
Shoes; Vitulli Moda; bought in Melbourne

To the bat cave!   Long coats look satisfyingly dramatic in a gust of wind… 
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