Tag Archives: Forget-me-not Patterns

adding the almighty pocket

So, recently I’ve been on a bit of a pocket binge.  You see, one has a phone which has rapidly become the ruler of one’s Life, and one has decided that this little autocrat needs to be on one’s person at all times.  So if something doesn’t have a pocket?  BAM! it’s getting one, like it or not!  Take that you pocketless fiends you!  Picture, if you will; pockets raining down upon Le Wardrobe, with lightning bolts and attendant thunderous cracks and booms as they attach themselves fiercely and fearlessly to the offending garments cowering on their hangers… ahem, my apologies.  Maybe I’ve been isolating too long.

Anyway, meet the victims:

please note; The Eye…

Firstly, my plaid Delice dress

I’d already promised to myself that I would add pockets once I got around to it… it’s a loose-fitting little thing, and while the attempted side-seam pockets did not work I knew welt pockets would be fine.  I just needed to get onto it!  and finally, voila. I still had the pocket bags, and I cut welts on grain from the very tiny amount of fabric I had leftover.  Both welts and the opening area of the pocket were interfaced with iron-on interfacing for stability – this fabric is basically a brushed cotton flannelette and so it has pretty poor stability actually,  A pocket bag on a welt sans interfacing stood a good chance of becoming a gaping, saggy mess, so I used nice firm stiff stuff, and the pockets turned out a charm.  No I didn’t take any progress pictures.  Bad me.

Secondly, my rusty coloured Sabrina skirt

 

this has always been a little on the baggy side for a pencil skirt, I think I might have selected the incorrect size in the first place because I’m slightly terrified of making a thing too small or too tight; a problem which is practically unfixable, and the fabric was kinda precious to me.  I mean, if you make something slightly too big, that is a problem that is eminently fixable down the track.  Except that “down the track” never seems to come… anyway, flash forward to a few days ago when I realised that same slight bagginess could easily accommodate some inseam pockets.  So I went for it!  I did remember to take some pictures of this one for posterity…

Firstly cut out the pockets lining at the size of pocket you want.  Stitch to the skirt front seam allowance at the place where you want your pocket to be in a skinny seam allowance, and press towards the skirt front.

Cut the pocket itself from the self-fabric, with an opening extension that covers the width of your side seam allowance once it’s laid over the pocket lining.  My side seam allowances for this skirt are actually quite huge, showing that I really truly overestimated how much wriggle room I needed; but since that mistake resulted in such a good prognosis for future pocket insertion, I forgive past-me.  Trim to fit, and finish the raw edge.  Stitch to the back seam allowance, right sides together in a skinny seam allowance, and leave it laying towards the front.  Check the pocket piece and pocket lining piece are aligned perfectly.

Now open the two pocket pieces apart and gently rip open the skirt side seam.  Leave at least 1cm closed at both top and bottom edge of the pocket pieces, and then reinforce the side-seam stitching at these points both top and bottom with some quick forward/backward stitching so the seam doesn’t open any further.

Now; open out the back skirt side seam allowance and as far as possible, stitch the skirt back and the pocket piece together, using the previous pressed seamline on the skirt back as a stitching guide.  Be sure to keep the skirt front free from this stitching!!

Lay the pocket pieces over each other again, and stitch them together around the curved edge, commencing and finished the seam at the skirt side seam, taking care to not go over it and into the skirt itself.  Finish the raw edges as far as possible on the overlocker.

Now open out the side seam allowances away from the skirt front and back, and at the top and bottom edges of the pocket, perpendicular to the side seam: stitch the pocket to the front skirt seam allowance up to the side seam line, and the pocket piece ONLY to the back skirt seam allowance up to the same seam line.  These short seams are indicated in white on the previous picture.

Ta da!

And, while I still had the machine threaded with chocolate brown thread… victim number three.  This is a great little corduroy skirt, very simple and plain and useful.  Except that it had no pockets!  Problem solved!  For this one, simple patch pockets were the go; but slanted at what I find to a optimal angle for my hands.  I used some of the leftover corduroy from which I made my wide-leg Sashas, and even though it doesn’t look like it I spent ages and aaaaaages aligning them to be perfectly symmetrical.  Yes they probably look a bit weird but I have pockets so I care not.

That’s it for now, until next time!

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Forget-me-not Sabrina skirt

In spite of being a Forget-me-not pattern I almost forgot to post this!! Except I didn’t, because here I am posting it.  But I had forgotten? for a little while anyway; that forgetful state of being ending as soon as I remembered.  I guess it’s technically not possible to “almost” forget something.  You’ve either forgotten something, or you haven’t; either one, or the other.  Like, maybe you DID forget something, but then all of a sudden, you DID NOT forget that something.  Ahem.  Yes, my brain does indeed love to devolve into such ridiculous semantics, arguing to and fro with myself.  Ultimately I did not forget, which is the main thing…

So, the skirt!  I made it a few months ago, as a tester for the pattern; it’s the Sabrina skirt pattern by Johanna of Forget-Me-Not patterns.  This is a really nice pencil skirt design of a deceptively simple appearance, I say “deceptively” because it has so many options for custom-shaping it to hug your own individual curves exactly, you really have no choice but to find that perfect fit… To start with, it has shaped gores; three in the front and four in the back; plus waist darts as well.  Additionally;  this very comprehensive pattern also contains separate pattern pieces for three different fit versions;  a straight fit, a mid fit, and a curvy fit.  You select which version you’re going to make based upon your own personal hip-to-waist body measurements.  It’s an amazingly detail-driven pattern!

The pattern also includes separate pattern pieces for the optional lining, and instructions for installing it in two different ways; the easy way or the more advanced way.  No prizes for guessing which one I chose to try out!

The advanced way results in a beautifully installed lining, with all seams and edges neatly and perfectly enclosed inside..  I’m over the moon with how my lining turned out! all steps are meticulously and carefully explained, and I found it very easy and straightforward to follow along.  In fact, the instructions are absolutely excellent; and I can highly recommend!

Fabricwise; I used a piece of rather lovely rusty-orange wool tweed, a leftover scrap inherited from my paternal grandmother, and a not quite matching deep raspberry lining fabric from my stash.  I had just enough of each to cut out the skirt, with zero leftovers.  It always makes me feel like celebrating when this happens!  It didn’t even feel like too much of a risk; entrusting my precious fabric to an untested pattern, because I knew with all those fitting seams and darts I’d be able to fudge fine-tune a really good fit.  I’d chosen my size based mostly upon my child-bearing hip measurements, and didn’t have to do much in the way of special fitting alterations, just nipped it in just a little towards the waist.

So, I finished this just as the winter was ending, and I’ve had to tuck it away to wait for next winter. I am really looking forward to wearing it though.  Not only is the fabric kinda special to me, knowing it was from Marnie, but a sleek, perfectly fitting pencil skirt is a no-brainer, yeah?  very much my style.

I’m happy!

Later edit: this skirt now has pockets!  see my how-to here:

and another edit! this skirt has been shortened!

  

Details:

Cowl; hand knitted by me, details and my pattern here
Merino tee; Nettie tee pattern by Closet Case patterns, details here
Skirt; Forget-me-not Patterns Sabrina skirt
Tights; made by me using my own custom-fit pattern, details here
Boots; Roberto del Carlo, from Zomp boutique

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box of socks; the October edition

I meant to post this yesterday, however I’m … ok I’m NOT going to complain about being busy.  The dreaded B word.  It’s annoying.  Sorry!

However, ta da!  I finished these socks during my holiday away in the US with Yoshimi.  Here is the incriminating evidence of me in the act of conversational knitting while in San Francisco with Shams and Yoshimi…  and I can assure you we’re actually sitting in our air bnb here and I’m NOT actually humiliating us all while out in public..

I took my bamboo needles away with me, because I knew airlines are ok with skinny little bamboo needles.  However I did not knit one single stitch while on the plane!!  Nope, upon getting on the plane I proceeded to watch movies, eat dinner, sip champagne, and sleep.  I did absolutely nothing constructive whatsoever.  Ha!

it’s a tough life but somebody’s gotta do it

I bought the sock yarn while I was in Japan in April… it’s Opal yarn in the Van Vincent Gogh “Vase of Sunflowers” colour way 5432; and the pattern is kinda my own, heavily adapted basic sockette pattern in a Patons pamphlet from the 60’s, no C11.  I completely adore the warm swampy mossy yellowy, browny greens.  So very moi.

#thePerilsofBeingaPetOwningKnittingBlogger

Before I drag out ye olde updated box of socks picture, I just want to put up this picture Tim sent through.. I’m rather thrilled he’s still wearing that outfit for Hallowe’en!!

Also I thought I’d share here my own Hallowe’en post for this year although you could not call this a costume, it’s just an outfit that I would wear on any other day.  Sophie makes the whole thing, imo… that darling little powder puff.

And now… finally.  Le box of socks is looking rather gorgeous, I reckon!!

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black Clementine

Oh my gosh, I am so behind!  I’ve made this new dress … and have worn it and why have I not blogged it?  I used to have quite a strict rule about not wearing something until I have written a blog post for it, but things have been so hectic and complicated lately.

So I received a length of beautifully soft, perforated black suedette fabric from Minerva, and also the Clementine dress pattern, the inaugural pattern from a new pattern company, Forget-Me-not patterns and the marriage of these two items bore the most satisfactory fruit; this delightfully witchy-chic and I think rather elegant little number…  I only had 2m of the suedette fabric which was technically not enough to make the dress I wanted to, but somehow I made it work! with some sneaky patching together here and there.  Specifically, the side front and side back panels have a waist seam, and the back panel has a centre back seam.  Not that you’d ever know that wasn’t completely intentional if I hadn’t pointed it out, right?!

The Clementine is a terrifically versatile pattern, a fit and flare style with princess seams, designed for a stretch knit, and includes a top and dress variations, with either a scoop neck or a cowl neck option.  Also three different sleeve lengths marked too.

I went, very predictably I’m afraid, for the dress option, with the cowl neck, and the three quarter sleeve length…

My suedette, being perforated, is actually a little bit “peekaboo” close-up, so I chose to underline my dress completely with some very thin, beige/greyish-ivory knits I had in my stash already.  Two slightly different fabrics, of an annoying length each of which wasn’t really enough on their own to be useful enough for anything much so I was mighty pleased with myself when it occurred to me I had “just enough” of each combined to cut out my underlining!  I clean cut the suedette and the beige knits using my rotary cutter and left them unhemmed, since the fabrics are all non-frayable and quite stable; however I did opt to hem the sleeve hems since these areas are subject to a bit more stretch and strain.  Each of the underlining pieces was cut to be 5cm shorter than its corresponding outer shell piece.  I stitched each seam, before overlocking the raw edges in a second pass.  The pattern is reeeeally economically designed for minimum fabric wastage, with a 6mm seam allowance.  Highly approve of such thriftiness! although it doesn’t leave any wriggle room, should one wish to indulge in a bit of post-cutting size-fudging/alteration, ahem!  fortunately I went with my recommended size and feel like the sizing is just right.

I am completely in love with that s0ftly draping cowl neckline!  It’s my favourite feature of the dress!

At the back neckline I overlocked the raw edge of the suedette shell self-facing, turned it down over the underlining, and simply topstitched it in place…

I was quite pleased with myself when the front facing/underlining turned out quite clean and neatly done; I cut the front underlining the right length so as to stitch to the lower edge of the front self-facing, right sides together, and then when I stitched the shoulder seam I sandwiched the back shoulder edges in-between the front and its self-facing, so all raw edges are neatly hidden inside.

I liked the idea of the dress being middy length, so lengthened all pieces by 15cm at the lower edges… this is the very maximum I could get out of my metre-age!  I was actually kicking myself I had not ordered more fabric, but was rather chuffed I managed to make it work, yay!

And that swish factor!  I love a dress with a bit of swish!

I have to say; Clara was being so sweet the day I took these pictures!  I was down south alone with her on this particular week, and setting up to take photos of my new dress and she just snuck over and plopped herself down loyally at my feet, without even being asked… I was so touched!  although the little nose touching my hand in the first picture make me suspect she thought a treat might be in the offing; poor girl, it was not!

I am wearing the dress here with my self-made tights – think I might need to make a new batch of these before winter ends!; and the boots Craig gave me for my last birthday.  It’s funny, I didn’t actually think these would get a tonne of wear since I have several pairs of black booties/boots; but I’ve enjoyed wearing them so much this winter.  Maybe even my most worn pair of boots for the year?… maybe?!

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