Tag Archives: Lingerie

neon yellow and black gingham

So, Mum was coming up to stay recently and we were going to be doing some sewing together… for a variety of reasons I didn’t want to be doing my Christmas sewing, the biggie being that I needed a little break from all that #exhausted  #needsomeselfishnessSTAT

Anyway, I decided I wanted to just whip up something quick, fun and easy.  A simple lingerie set.  So quick!  Such fun!  So easy!  And, I reasoned; I have a billionty-one lingerie bits and pieces on hand already, so I could easily shop my stash and avoid any last-minute dashes to the fabric store.

Obviously when anyone sets out to do such a thing, a last minute dash to the fabric store will be an absolute certainty.  Ha!

So I had this small piece of neon yellow bamboo knit (Fabulous Fabrics I think), always intended for lingerie but never-got-around-to-it; and some bits of both white and black elastics, enough of the both together to cobble together a bra and two sets of sorta matching undies.  For the set to look cohesive, I used both white AND black elastics on all pieces…  so it’s kind of a case of nothing matches so everything does.  I do really like black ,white and yellow together though, so I think it turned out very nice.

The difference between the two pairs of matching knickers is subtle, oh so subtle! but it’s there.  One pair has black elastic on the waist, and white on the legs, the other has white elastic on the waist and black on the legs.  Subtle!!  To further emphasise the black/white dichotomy, I used black zig-zag topstitching everywhere there was white elastic, and white zig-zag topstitching everywhere there was black elastic.  This was not a totally successful ploy, since the white zig-zag stitching basically disappears into the yellow and you can’t even see it, but hey.

On another note; high contrast black zig-zag top-stitching on yellow is a deeply unforgiving exercise.  Much quality time was spent with my seam-ripper.

I’d planned to use a few little plain black and plain white ribbon bows in my stash, saved from old lingerie sets… but inevitably I became more and more convinced that black and white ribbons were just not right, and more and more convinced that the only option was something black AND white.  Like, gingham.  In fact I decided that gingham was the only possible choice, eventually.  At first I first made some ultra skinny rouleau loops with a scrap of gingham fabric from my stash – must avoid any last minute dashes to the fabric store!!! – and made some little bows, but they were just too bulky for the set.

Thus, the inevitable last-minute dash to Spotlight, for gingham ribbon.

It’s OK, I bought other stuff while I was there!  Alway, but always; there’s a little list building up.  (sigh)

Mum agrees that the gingham bows were exactly what the set needed.  The only thing is, that since the gingham ribbon is sold by the spool only, I now have about 3m left out of a 3.5m spool to do something with.  Lol!  MORE RANDOM STUFF ADDED TO THE STASH WILL IT NEVER END

Oh! pattern… I used the cloth habit Watson pattern for all pieces, except I used my own method for ensuring that all seams in the bra are enclosed in the lining, and as usual cut the knickers front and crotch lining as one piece so as to eliminate that horizontal front seam.  I love the Watson bra more and more nowadays; it’s funny; I’ve always preferred a slightly padded bra with a foam-lined cup, basically my whole life, but just lately I’m really into this soft, unwired, unstructured type of bra.  Especially for summer, when I’m not wearing tight Tshirts.  Sure, they result in the flat-chested look, but you know what? I’m at peace with that aspect of my body now.  I mean, it’s what I’ve got, it’s me, my body is just my body; and I’m ok with it.

Thank you, Jane for being such a fab lingerie model… and now, back to sewing the Christmas pressies!!

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more liberty lingerie… and why do I make my own?

On the “news” * the other night they had a little segment where Kmart introduced their new range of $5 bras, which is insanely cheap… and all over again I got to thinking about why I make my own in the face of the ever plummeting prices of rtw clothing.    See, a lot of people I know think I’m completely bonkers (source; they tell me)  for making my own when it’s so cheap to buy a perfectly pretty and well-made bra, and without the angst of sourcing all your own bits and pieces and spending the few hours it takes to put it all together.

* “News” in inverted commas… because some of our local news programmes go for a full hour here while at the same time this is a city where basically nothing ever happens.  The world news, or REAL news, is raced through in about ten minutes; local news might be another one or two minutes, tops, and usually is something like “the Mayor in hot water because she tried to claim her wardrobe as a work expense!”; the twenty minute sports section is always lengthily and disproportionately weighted towards Aussie rules football and stats and is highly detailed, let’s not even go there! ; the weather is a brief high point; and the rest of it is thinly disguised ads.  The Kmart bra story definitely fell into the category of thinly disguised ad.

So, summarising into a neat and tidy little list of pros and cons…

CONS

  •  it’s relatively expensive to make your own.  During my year where I added up how much I spent on my totally handmade wardrobe, I discovered that bras and undies were amongst the priciest of things to make yourself.  Sure, you’re only using teeny pieces of fabric and/or lace, but once you include elastics, hook and eyes, rings and sliders, and even the optional underwires, underwire casing and foam paddings… well it adds up pretty quick!
  • it’s fiddly
  • if you buying a rtw bra, you can reject any one that is not completely perfect and just keep trying on different ones until you find The One… when you’re making your own it takes time and maybe even a few less-than-satisfactory bras before you work out the perfect fit for you with any given pattern.
  • it can be difficult if not impossible to find colour-matching bits and pieces.  You can dye your own (more fiddle) or settle for good old boring black, white or beige.  Kind people may give you their old colourful bras from which you can harvest the colourful bits.. however in my experience the hooks and eyes closure at the back which is the very hardest bit to source in different colours is usually the very first bit to look hideously wrenched and worn out, and is not worth saving.

PROS

  • you can be creative… express yoself!!
  •  I feel a lot better about myself and my wardrobe if it is my own labour being poured into it, rather than someone else who is being grossly underpaid for doing so.  Many years ago when I took my Lifetime Pledge in Wardrobe Refashion, I thought long and hard at the time about doing so… and my reason has remained unchanged… I love fashion, I love the artistry and creativity and self-expressiveness of it, but I can only live with myself by taking that ethical stance
  • it’s actually kinda fun
  • it’s fiddly.  Yes, I also claimed this as a “con” but I’m the kinda loon who actually thoroughly enjoys doing detailed and fiddly things.
  • I like that my free time is spent doing something productive and useful… and there’s not much more productive and useful than making your own consumables.  Plus, last but certainly not least:
  • I LOVE sewing with a weird and totally unreasonable passion.  Perhaps that should have been number one on the list.

Well, anyway, there it is, annoyingly inconclusive.  I suppose what I’m saying is that as long as I’m able, I’ll probably continue to make my own, while questioning my own sanity at the same time.  Definitely bonkers.

Oh, and yes, I made a new lingerie set… ta da!

 

Fabric; Liberty cotton Clifton jersey Josephine’s Garden in the Pink colourway …  this is the other piece of liberty cotton jersey that I bought from the Fabric Store in Melbourne during my weekend away there with Mum, Cassie and Tiffany… and now I’ve made up all my Liberty and have NONE LEFT! (sob)  Knicker elastic, and the white cotton jersey used for lining from Spotlight.   The pink ribbon that I used to make the little decorative bows, white rings and sliders, and the bra hook and eye thingie were all from Homecraft Textiles.

Pattern; both bra and the two identical pairs of matching knickers are the Watson by Cloth Habit… with a few variations of my own, namely:

1) the front crotch seam has been eliminated from the knickers, as per usual.

2)  I really like the shape of the Watson bra pattern, however the raw edges showing inside has always been a problem for me… anyway I made this one so the bra cups + front band are fully lined and with NO raw edges showing on the inside.  My method is outlined below.

Stitch the side seams…

then stitch the cup into the cradle curve… taking care to leave free the narrow upper seam allowance of the cup at the centre front

Wrong sides together, stitch the cup lining to the cup/cradle seam allowance, cradle side up so you are stitching along the previous stitching line.  After this, fold out and twist the shell and lining cup pieces so they are right sides together and stitch the upper, inner-front cup seam with a narrow seam allowance. (no picture of this, sorry!)

Pin cradle lining right side to the seam allowance of the existing cup/cradle seam allowance, and stitch together with the shell pieces uppermost, so you are stitching over the previous stitching. Trim and grade seam allowances…

Now, take the cradle lining and twist it round so you can pin the side seam edge to the outside of the bra side seam… i.e. the right side of the cradle lining is up against the wrong side of the bra back piece.  Holding the pinned seam with the shell fabric uppermost, and taking care not to catch any other bits of fabric in with the stitching, stitch along the previous side seam stitching.

Trim and grade seam allowances…

Looking pretty neat and tidy already!

Attach the upper and lower elastics as per usual, and it’s all perfectly clean and neat in there with absolutely no exposed raw edges…  *satisfied sigh*

 

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liberty lingerie

I’ve made some new lingerie… arranged here ever so prettily with some sweet little blooms gathered from my garden and scattered just so… doesn’t it look nice?

Patterns; ye olde favourites… MakeBra 2610 for le brassiere, and the two sets of matching knickers are the cloth habit Watson briefs modified so as to remove that awful front crotch seam.  I’d bought 1.5m of the bra strap elastic, which turned out to be enough to make the shoulder straps as double straps.  I’ve seen this done on a few of the more high end rtw bras around and I likey! so it was good I had enough to have a go at it!

Fabric; I bought this Liberty jersey from the Fabric Store in Melbourne, (NOT an affiliate link, just there for courtesy) during my trip away there with Mum, Cassie and Tiffany in March; such a fun trip with much shopping and chatting in a girly way there together.  It is called Scilly Flora, in pink, and I immediately fell in love with its playfully naif flowers in a bright and cheerful kaleidoscope of red/pink/orange/mauve /green.  Apparently it’s a reworking of a child’s hand-drawing, which is a really sweet idea.

 

White cotton jersey for the knicker lining, the cup foam is from my MakeBra basic black kit, still got lots of that left, yay! and I got the electric blue foldover elastic, bra straps and the red underbust elastic from Homecraft Textiles in Vic Park; really, they have the most wonderful and amazing range of elastics EVER!!  I’m always blown away a bit every time I go in there.  Sometimes I wish I could justify making a new set of undies every week, just so I can utilise all the colours they have there… but lately I’m aiming to only replace things as they wear out now… as in, one thing out, then a new thing in.  A little restraint, please.  Oh, I also got the black rings and sliders and the black hook and eye thing from there too.

It was a little bit of a pain changing threads a million times while making this set; I switched between blue, red, black and white threads AND bobbin threads MULTIPLE times, like I’m not even kidding I spent more time switching threads in my machine than I spent actually sewing… seriously!  But I think it looks really pretty, and I love it.  My underwear drawer has never looked so colourful!

 

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Jungle-y underdaks

Can you even see my latest creations…?  Not really?  Well, that’s because it’s all so perfectly and beautifully camouflaged in the deepest, darkest, greenest depths of my garden I mean… the jungle, of course!!

So it’s January, and I’d begun to notice a few jungle-y things popping up on my IG feed… oh, it’s that time again…? well alrighty then!!!  hurrah!  Jungle January!  the brainchild of Anne of Pretty Grievances  I LOVE sewing challenges!

I’m continuing on with my tradition of making a new set of bra plus undies for my thing.  The last two years I’ve taken the humble frog as my inspiration, firstly here and secondly here… this time I wanted something different, and by that I meant a creature other than a frog.  I had a few different ideas…  but nothing jumped out at me… finally I just thought; I’m going to google “jungle” and select the top rating picture as my inspiration, no further argument.  I did, it, held my breathe, what creature was I going to have to “interpret”…?  and this is what came up…

source, kingofwallpapers.com/jungle

THE JUNGLE ITSELF.  OF COURSE!!!  #facepalm

Truly magnificent, yes?  Nature at its most glorious.

First impression; well, just GREEN.  How extravagantly, intensely, and totally green it was.  Fabricwise, I was immediately reminded of a length of stretch stuff that Mum had tossed out and that I had immediately squirrelled away, it has a random painterly print on it; predominantly green with some blobs of other colours subtly melting all together; I think it was originally from Fabulous Fabrics.  I dug it out, positioned my pattern pieces on it strategically so as to include as much of the greenery bits as possible, emphasise the “jungle-y” parts of it as much as I was able.

There are even a few, almost snake-scale-y bits, ranging from mossy, yellow-y green…

right though to an almost aqua green

…and can you almost imagine here the golden sunlight breaking through the high-up leafy canopy, and maybe a bright scarlet flash of parrot’s wings, or a single jungle bloom…?

   

Patterns; my old favourite MakeBra bra pattern, and the two pairs of matching briefs are both cloth habit Watson.  I used the makeBra instructional video on how to make a foam-lined bra to make mine; it’s a brilliant video, completely foolproof.  Some of my materials like the foam and some of the elastics are from the MakeBra basic kits that I bought last year, though the underbust bra elastic is from Homecraft Textiles because the stuff in the MakeBra kit is not such good quality this time, unfortunately.  The lingerie elastic on the undies is from Spotlight.  I bought up a huge amount of this during a sale one time and am still using it up!

 

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pretty duds, plain duds

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Sooo….. I’ve been making underwear, and recently have produced two new sets; one is sorta Oo-la-la while the other is more of the Serviceable variety.

Madame Serviceable? you’re up first!

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“Pretty” is all very well but we all need some plains in our lives too, right?   I still think this set is kinda classy  🙂  Of course I’ve been wearing it a lot! because it’s absolutely awesome under all my winter white sweaters and Tshirts, which I wear such heckkuva lot it’s not even funny.  Rest assured though, I took these photos when it was all fresh and brand new, hot off the machine and not yet been worn.
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Patterns; MakeBra 2610, which is apparently now renamed DL03; so I’m going to start using that tag instead…  and all four pairs of knickers in this post are the Watson briefs.
Materials; light caramel stretchy stuff from Fabulous Fabrics, all other materials are from my MakeBra basic kits.  The foldover elastic on the waist of the knickers is a different type from that I used for the legs, because in between the two basic kits I’ve bought through them, they seem to have changed their supplier or something.  I didn’t have enough of either elastic to do everything on both pairs of briefs, but I had enough for this arrangement.  They’re close enough to identical that I can live with it  😉  The waist elastic is a teeny little bit “shinier” than the leg elastic.  The little ribbon bows are rescued from off of an old lingerie set, also me-made.  Yep, when I toss out an old lingerie set, I usually salvage the little decorative bows off it, because A) it’s not like they get dirty or worn out or ruined or anything through wear, and B) they’re kinda fiddly to make so it’s worth the few seconds it takes to pick them off to keep for a new set.  Waste not want not!

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Madame Oo-la-la…

I bought this neon yellow bra kit from Measure Twice Cut Once… and was rather thrilled that I managed to get not just the bra but two pair of knickers from it too;yay!!!  Stingey economical cutter; yet another of my middle names…

hehe; I finished the set late at night and then just slung it all over Bessie in a hurry.  The next morning it gave me such a laugh to see her “wearing” these pretty frilly nothings all deshabille and “twas a wild-night, eh?” like this!!  😀

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The bra design is my own; I just wanted something flimsy and a bit of whimsical frippery.  In summer I don’t always want or need to wear the foam-lined “Tshirt” bras that I favour in winter, and can just happily live in the more lacey, pretty and fun designs.  Just one more reason to love summer!!!  Anyway, I just draped the lace directly on Bessie and ad-libbed it, and I couldn’t be happier with the result!  I think it turned out really pretty and almost more like a sweet little camisole than a bra.  Don’t worry, it’s definitely going to be worn as a bra, though! even though it’s lined with beige power net it’s still quite see-through.

It’s not a super supportive thing, but realistically I have no need for a super supportive bra anyway.  I still think it’s pretty stable though;  I stitched the clear elastic that came with the kit along each side of the cups; so they won’t stretch out, and stitched a little strip of bias-cut white linen in with the side seams.  I trimmed the linen strip right down before encasing it within the side seam, so it doesn’t show…. and this stabilised the side seams and makes them nice and strong, and they won’t stretch out either.

Inner workings: 1) hand flat-felled seams within the cups and clear elastic stabilising; and 2) linen bias-strip to stabilise the side seams(above)  is then sewn to be enclosed inside the layers (below)

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There was enough of some neon yellow bra elastic to do one pair of knickers around the waist, the other has a strip of the leftover neon yellow lace at the top.  After that, I had to resort to things from my stash; obviously I didn’t have any matching lingerie elastic for the legs and had to resort to white.   I don’t hate the white, but don’t love it either… I kinda wish I had made some attempt to get hold of matching lingerie elastic but I’m an impatient person and really wanted to just get them made and done!

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film noir (lingerie)

film noirLately the smalls drawer is just looking the epitome of prettiness!  I’m totally enamoured with this new set… ivory bobbin lace on a deep blue-y charcoal background, with delicate little black ribbon bows.  A little old Hollywood, scraps from the cutting room floor…

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Patterns; bra is my favourite MakeBra 2610, and I’ve made two pairs of different knickers to match.

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Below: cloth habit Watson briefs.

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And further below is pictured the the MakeBra free hipster pattern, free to download here from their site.  How do the knickers patterns compare?  Well, I admit those hipsters do initially look like awfully big granny-knickers lain flat like that, but they’re actually rather cute on! believe it or not!  Boy leg style, and medium rise, sitting right at mid-hip.  I like them, a lot; even though my wearing preference lies with the more high cut bikini style of brief, like my old fave McCalls 2772, and the Watson.  I love the Watson briefs, and they’ve become my knicker of choice, with the proviso of always modifying by eliminating that awful horizontal seam in front of the crotch. Sorry, but I just really do not like that seam! and don’t see the advantage of it.  I prefer to cut the front in one piece, splicing the front and crotch pattern pieces together, and sewing the crotch lining in the same method as outlined in my McCalls 2772 pattern, my other go-to knickers pattern.

hipsterActually, I did the exact same thing with the MakeBra hipster briefs, which also has that same horizontal front crotch seam.  grrr.  Both panty liners are of plain ivory cotton jersey.

detailsFabrics and other bits and bobs; charcoal stretch bought from Fabulous Fabrics, eons ago.  I used this for my Pattern Magic spiral leggings, and still have quite a bit of leftovers.  The ivory cotton bobbin lace trim is something that I’ve had for, like, ever.  Underwires are recycled from older, also self-made bras that have worn out. I used several different types of elastics, all smaller leftover bits from the stash.  Knicker leg elastic on both is a rather nice lacy elastic from Fabulous Fabrics, waist elastic is the plain picot lingerie elastic from Spotlight, bra elastics from variously the black and the ivory MakeBra basic kits.  Actually, the entire set was put together entirely from my stash, I didn’t have to buy a single new thing.  Awesome, no?  #youknowyoumakealotoflingeriewhen

I feel so efficient and so damn scrap-busteringly virtuous.  And I happen to have made something needed and useful and rather lovely too, imo.  Triple win!

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Petrol blue/apricot lingerie set

petrol blue and pink setFulfilling a need.  Plus, I’ve been making some winter boots and it has been such a freaking marathon, cue Munchen scream here, although I am over the difficult bit and on the home straight now, weeeee!  anyway I just wanted to whip up something quick and pretty and girly and fun and frivolous.  Lingerie! of course!  Something to lighten the mental load.

And happily coinciding with measure twice cut once “everyone deserves pretty lingerie”  Actually, I did a recce and clean out of the old smalls drawer recently, and things are looking a bit grim in there.  I definitely need more than just this one set.  Need.  MORE!
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Patterns; bra is makeBra 2610, now discontinued I think (sob) but very very similar in style to the bra pattern DL03.  I say “similar” but I would even hazard a very non-informed guesstimate as “near-identical”.  The undies are both the Watson briefs; although I see makeBra has a free hipster knickers pattern on their site now… I’ve printed it for myself but not actually made it up yet.  Next time!

petrol blue and pink set 2 Fabric and materials: I bought the pretty floral cotton-mix jersey and the lace-y knicker elastic from Fabulous Fabrics during their recent 20% off sale, and the deep teal/navy blue shoulder strap elastic and ribbon are from Homecraft Textiles.  I’ve always loved the colour combination of deep blues and teals when mixed with pinks of any variety; such a pleasing colour combination.  This set is pretty plain really, all the excitement is in the print.  In a rather busy print like this, I prefer for it to do the talking and power down on any lace or decoration or any frippery bits and bobs to distract from it.  That print is plenty!!

Gloating about my topstitching here… and can I just say, NO PINS!!  that’s all thanks to the brilliant makeBra instructional youtube video, which demystifies bra making and was a life-changing moment for me.  Seriously!

petrol blue andpink set 1All the other innards and bits; the foam, hook and eye closure, rings and sliders, underwire casing and underwires are from my rapidly dwindling basic lingerie kits that I bought from makeBra.  Those kits are pretty brilliant, I totally need to order another one…. ASAP.

Woot!  Smalls drawer; levelled up!!!

petrol bue and pink bra

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set de la tree frog

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My new lingerie set is inspired by the red-eyed tree frog.  Yes, really! and this is my “thing” for Jungle January, the fun yearly challenge set by Anne of Pretty Greivances.

Deja vu!! because last year I also made underdaks, also froggy-inspired.

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photograph credit, Carey James Balboa; source

So, hello there, Agalychnis callidryas.  This little cutie is native to the rain forests that extend from Mexico down through Central America to Columbia…  and thank YOU, Wikipedia.  Also according to Wikipedia, its name callidryas is derived from the Greek for beautiful wood nymph.  So while I am wearing it I shall imagine myself as a … bwahaha, I’m joking of course, I cannot even type that with a straight face.  Lol.

It’s an exquisite little creature, is it not? the colours are quite magnificent.  So bright and vivid and with those eyes; big, round and true scarlet, with a vertically aligned pupil.  I positioned my two-hole buttons accordingly, and used black thread on purpose to mimic that.

IMG_9008Well I reckon it’s the attention to the whimsical detail that becomes the most fun thing about making your own clothes!

Actually this was all a bit fortuitous… I kinda forgot about Jungle January, then Sue posted her dress and I was like doh!  Jungle January! aaaaaagh!  but as it turned out, I’d only just cut all the lingerie pieces of green jersey, like the night before.  I’d managed to squeak these pieces out from the leftovers of a Tshirt… anyway, I looked at the colour and immediately thought “frog!”

So, with the perfect colour fabric (Fabulous Fabrics), plus it was already cut out and ready to go, I already had the blue fold-over elastic, navy blue underband elastic and the red buttons in Le Stash…  so I just needed to dash out to Homecraft Textiles for some orange fold-over elastic; bob’s your uncle.

squeezing all details into one picture…

IMG_9011Patterns; both knickers are the Watson briefs and the bra is my favourite pattern, MakeBra 2610.  This is hands down the most wearable of the bra patterns in my collection.

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Oh, I mentioned the lingerie set was leftovers from  a Tshirt? well, now seems a good enough time as any to blog about that too.  Lime green jersey from Fabulous Fabrics, pattern is the Nettie byCloset Case patterns, my go-to Tshirt pattern.  It’s actually way too hot for me to really wear it right now, it’s 37C phew! so this is like a 20 second photo shoot happening here.  I bought this fabric at the same time as the black-and-white striped fabric for this recent skirt, because I reckoned they’d be kind cool together, Tim Burton-ish, in a good way.

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Actually, this project is pretty funny to me; see, the Tshirt was really my primary objective, because I wanted more colour options in my Tshirt department… the lingerie was cut out just as a “oh, what the hey” afterthought because the fabric was already out.   In all likelihood the pieces would have got shoved away like the three other unmade lingerie sets I’ve already cut out under the same circumstances…. oops!  must make those too… *blush*

Then Jungle January breathed inspiration into those scrappy bits, and I got all excited and super focused and enthused about making the lingerie and it became a much bigger deal in my head… I almost forgot about that Tshirt!

Later edit;  I eventually got tired of the Tshirt’s lime-green colour and dyed it brown, now it’s a delightfully sludgy shade of olive!

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