Tag Archives: Own Design

Autumn leaves sundress

I made a sundress using my autumn leaves fabric, screen-printed by me here.  Those who like wonky weird imperfect prints are going to like this, if you don’t, then avert your eyes!
The pattern is an adaption of dress T, from the Stylish Dress Book, the design Reana chose for me to make my sew bossy dress here, which now looks like this.  That one is such a great dress to wear; so comfy and easy to throw on it has quickly become one of my favourites  ðŸ™‚
For this new dress I didn’t have enough fabric to make up the pattern as is.  I left off the sleeves, and removed about 15cm in width from the centre fold of both the skirt front and back, so there is no gathering into the bodice … that’s a whole foot taken out of the skirt’s circumference overall!  and there was still plenty of room in the skirt for me to have inseam pockets.  I cut these from a much nicer, lightweight white swiss dot cotton.
The front neckline of the bodice has been scooped out a bit deeper than the pattern, and I split the front bodice and made a little placket, with buttons and buttonholes.  Just because, I dunno (shrug), something to focus on other than those weird and wonky leaves.  The front and back bodice each have a full facing, cut from a lightweight plain white cotton.

 Hehe… would you believe I’ve only just noticed, when I uploaded this picture? that one of the leaves on the front of the bodice is missing its stem??  Only just noticed!  LOL!  And while drawing them in I checked and checked…  I’ve fixed this up now, but didn’t bother to take another picture.

I’m a bit meh about this dress, partly because my print is … funny; and partly because the fabric itself is a pretty poor quality.  It is a bit stiff and almost calico-like in texture.  Now I’m kinda kicking myself I didn’t take the risk and buy a finer quality cotton in the first place, problem was, I had no confidence in myself and started out with the assumption I was going to stuff it up.   I will wear the dress, because it’s airy and cool and will be great to have in the wardrobe in the hottest days of summer when I just want to grab something casual, and I’m hoping it will soften up over time with wear and washing.  The thing is, I usually judge my self-mades by posing the question; would I buy this if I saw it in a store?  And realistically I would probably pass this over, laughing at its hideousness.  Oh well.  

A thought…  I can always use it as an apron, for future screen-printing sessions?!  Ha!

I did learn something pretty important in printing and making this dress…  Cut out the pattern pieces before printing! 
This approach is hugely superior to printing a length of fabric and then deciding what to make with it, like I did here.  Several reasons…

There is less wastage of fabric ink and your own effort, since you are not printing fabric that you won’t use. 

You can make sure that the print is properly covering the pattern piece as you are going along. 

You can if desired place the print just exactly how you want it to appear on the piece.  

It’s guaranteed that you will have enough fabric printed to make what you want, there’ll be no laying down the pattern pieces and being disappointed that you underestimated just how much you would need.
Another consideration… there will be no angst when cutting into your precious print since it is already cut out and ready to go!

And, learning from my own mistakes… yes, I have already sewn together my giant polka dot pieces too, and I’m pretty happy with that one…..  Stay tuned!  ðŸ™‚

Details:
Dress; based upon dress T from the Stylish Dress book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, screen-printed ivory cotton
Hat; Vogue 8844, ivory corduroy, details and my review of this pattern here
pinterestmail

Screen-printing: giant beachy polka dots

My latest screen-printing project  ðŸ™‚
Searching for design inspiration, I randomly set myself a theme.  The beach!  I sketched out several ideas and variations, some abstract some more literal, and spent ages agonising over which one I should do… aaargh, so indecisive!!  Eventually settled on this very simple and abstract one, obviously! since we are really pushed for time and space in our class and it’s best not to to turn up with very ambitious ideas.  I had to finish this one at home since I only managed to get halfway through in class.  But I am seriously considering setting up at home to print at least one of my other beach-related ideas too.
I used a lovely lightweight cotton/linen from Spotlight, in a soft sandy shade.  This is probably the nicest, classiest fabric I have printed so far.  It was scary, but I felt ready to take a risk.
The colour palette (6 colours) :

The dots are all printed using the same imperfect circle template, but oriented different ways so they don’t look identical to each other.
Funny moment; my friend J, with whom I am doing the class, on seeing my stencil “um, it’s a hole?”
When printing I tried to vary the visual texture of the dots; at times I did a scanty pull, to get scratchy dots, at other times I put together blobs of slightly different shades of the colours without mixing properly, to get streaked or blotchy dots.

Before class, I cut out all my pattern pieces and tacked an accurate 11cmx11cm grid all over each piece.  When printing the dots I placed the screen just slightly off every now and again, because I like how a little imperfection makes the design look more casual and fun.  Plus, wonky designs are the beginner screen-printer’s best friend!!

The whole shebang…

Thoughts: I am super happy with how the print turned out! and am pretty excited to see how the final garment will look.  I’m motivated to sew it up quickly, because my teacher specifically asked me to show it at our next class.. which will be our last!  Yes, I’m a little sad that my weekly class is going to end, but this isn’t going to be the end of my screen-printing adventures, that’s for sure!

pinterestmail

New (not) khaki leggings

Hello  ðŸ™‚
I’m still renovating my wardrobe… and can I just say, beige leggings, hmmm.  (shudder) I’d taken a hearty dislike to mine over recent weeks.  But they still had some wear in them.  Wasteth not, wanteth not.  It was really just the colour that had become offensive to my eyes.   Corrective action was called for.  
To the dye pot!!! 
(spoken in the same tone as one says “to the bat cave!” of course!)
Before…
the transformative materials…
I used only a shake (that’s an official unit of measurement there) each of iDye in Brown and Chartreuse.  Probably a pinch at the most, plus heaps of salt.  Pinch, heaps;  some other highly technical terms.  Trust me, I’m an analytical chemist!

And now they are no longer hideous to my eyes, they have a new lease on life  ðŸ™‚
my tutorial on dyeing

Details:
Leggings; self-drafted of beige cotton knit, dyed khaki, originally posted here
Tshirt; self-drafted, grey knit stuff, details here
Dress; the gathered hole dress from Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi, charcoal suiting, details here

pinterestmail

Screen-printing; autumn leaves

Hello! been screen-printing some more  ðŸ™‚
btw, Shelley and Ute asked about the ink and colour-fastness of; we are using Permaset Aqua Textile Printing Ink, you can read about it, search for stockists and buy online here.  I got some at Jacksons art suppliers.  wrt colour-fastness I am veeeeery pleased to report that I have laundered my Poppies set and it came out as fresh and clean and bright as when it was first printed… phew!  (wipes sweat from brow)  I had this horrible feeling that I was going to pull an all-over pink and poppy-less set of lingerie from the washing machine, but no, this ink is marvellous stuff!  so yeah, my experience is that if you follow the instructions on the jar and iron like mad, then happy, print-y laundering will ensue.
But back to the current project…
This time I printed two large-ish pieces of fabric, and tried to make a random repeating print, one that had an interlocking-overlapping design so that repeat prints looked more organically seamless and less obvious where the design started and finished with each one.  My teacher photocopied my design to show me how you can cut it up the middle and place the sides back on themselves to see how the design needs to be altered so that it fits in visually.

Also, because I wanted my leaves to be an autumnal colour range as opposed to one single solid colour, I did not mix anything but instead plopped blobs of colour along the top of the screen and just allowed them to mix and marble together however they wanted during the screening.  I started with blobs of Mid Yellow and Purple, which eventually with repeat screenings became a kind of olive, which I re-used and kept adding new little blobs of yellow and purple to it at the top of the screen randomly.  More yellow got into the mix than purple because I wanted the leaves to “glow”, and loved how the streaks of yellow accentuated this effect.
I had to cut two identical paper stencils because I did it in two lots, the first length of fabric in class and the second at home.  My second effort (at left in the picture below) clearly has a much better alignment! haha hardly surprising, that!  and this time, remembering the difficulties I had with cutting pattern pieces from my poppies print, I tried as much as possible to print right up to and over the edges of my fabric pieces.
Something I forgot to mention in my murky blocks post but have found indispensible!! is to draw a large arrow on the back side of the stencil, indicating “this side up” of course!  With designs like mine which are abstract but still directional, having this has saved me several times from making a terrible mistake…

Once both lengths had dried it looked a little dull and I fancied the idea of a random red leaf here and there, both for visual interest as well as to fill in some gaps.  I didn’t use the screen, but just cut a single-leaf stencil from thickish paper and sort of “sploodged” with a small amount of ink on the end of a paintbrush to fill it in.  Because the paper degrades and starts to bleed quickly, I only used each one about three or four times each before needing to cut a new one.  This colour is the leftover, so the same as, my poppies print.

Once all this had dried, I went over with a Sharpie laundry marker and hand-added the leaf stalks in later.
(and, you can see in my first photo, some little pencilled-in crosses between the leaves? these are my alignment guides and will wash out, no worries  ðŸ™‚

Thoughts:
Not fabulous but getting… somewhere?!  Has some disastrous spots, but overall I eventually wrangled it into something I like.  I already know how I’m going to use it!  Since I’m less happy with this than with my murky block print then paradoxically I will feel less angst-y about slicing into it and sewing it up first… if that makes any sense.  No, I know it doesn’t.  I’m intimidated by fabrics I love more, so am more likely NOT to use them through weird feelings of inadequacy that I can’t do them justice… pretty silly, huh?
Anyway this will get made up quickly… stay tuned!

pinterestmail

Screen-printing: murky blocks

Well … screen-printing, whoar!  You guys.  I’m totally sucked in.  Somebody stop me!
So yesterday everyone was out except for me … but I had fabric.   I had a design and paint and I had a screen.  I had a big outdoor table, all to myself.
I hopped straight into it.
Luckily I had cooked a massive pot of soup in the morning because I was pooped by the end of the day!
So, this is a five colour design, with two sets of two and three quarters pattern repeats spread over two pieces of fabric.

The fabric is an ivory cotton from Homecraft Textiles.  It is quite tightly woven, crisp and stiff, but it’s not too bad with a quality like a coupla steps up from calico.
I started out by cutting a roughish dress outline, using my tried and true sheath dress pattern Burda 8511, I did this mostly to gauge out the size of the design, how it would look proportionally on a dress.

My design is one that is very forgiving to wonky alignment, even so I think my registration is improving; this time I spent a lot of time carefully measuring and marking key placement spots.  I tacked crosses at the border junctions of each repeat and marked the fabric with pins at the corner points for the screen for each repeat.  I was intentionally going for a more random appearance this time, so with each repeat I purposely moved the screen just a tiny bit this way and that way so the pattern would not be too obviously identical from one repeat to the next.
The colours: I’m such a scrooge and was really economical here! I started out with the palest colour and then continued adding to it to make the subsequent colours.  I only have a little bit of the last colour leftover so this approach really did make the most of my paint.

First colour, Mustard (yellow + teensiest touch of black):
I was totally in the zone and forgot to take a picture after the second colour! woops!
The second colour is Olive (the first colour mustard + teensiest touches of blue and black).  I had overestimated quantities here and made a lot of Olive, so divided this to make both the third and fourth colours….
Caramel (the 2nd colour olive + mid red)
Dark Olive (the 2nd colour olive + a touch more black)
lastly Chocolate (the remains of the caramel and dark olive mixed together)

The pattern repeat, although they each vary slightly:

Thoughts:
Far from perfect, but I’m pretty happy with it.  I like the late 60’s/early 70’s vibe it’s giving me.  These are my earliest years so I’m drawn to this time  ðŸ™‚
Sometimes, my first print after a colour change is terrible and comes out scratchy no matter how carefully I try to flood the screen.  This happened twice during this project, and also happened with my poppy print.  Meaning that statistically speaking, I have a 50% chance of a good first print, subsequent prints seem to go on more easily, smoothly and cleanly.  So to save myself tears, in the future I’m going to have a sacrificial scrap piece of fabric sitting on the side for that pesky first print.
The colours were supposed to be more transparent; I added what seemed to be heaps of transparency medium to the darker colours! but they are just NOT all that transparent.  Disappointed!  Some of the overlaps have masked the underneath colour completely.  I’m going to check with my teacher a good transparency ratio, or maybe the future I should minimise overlapping of motifs.

So eventually this will be a dress, but not yet.  I’m a-pondering it for a while.

With a pensive silence and furrowed brow.

It’s funny how easily we can slice into shop-bought printed fabric without a second thought but when it is your very own precious print, cutting into it is terrifying!
For now I’m embarking on a couple of quickie wardrobe fixer-ups, plus now I’ve done this project at home I have to cut some more stencils before my next class… later, dudes! 🙂

pinterestmail

Poppies lingerie set

My first screen-printing effort obviously lent itself best to something comprised of smaller pieces that could be cut to avoid the more glaring imperfections in the print, ahem!  A set of lingerie sounded like a plan  ðŸ™‚  My poppies print was pretty bad really, but it still felt precious to me just because I’m a silly sentimental thing.  There was extensive contemplation of, and moving around, the pattern pieces on the fabric before I braved snipping!  And bias placement is such a fabric hog.  I considered disobeying and naughtily cutting the undies on the grain but didn’t want to court disaster.  I cut the bigger undies pieces from my later, more successful print placements (at upper left of my fabric length) and cut the smaller bra pieces from the in between scraps and from my first, badly placed prints (at lower right) and mirror-matched as much as possible the print placement on front pieces and back pieces of the bra.

The bra pattern is KwikSew 3300 with modifications to account for using a woven fabric as opposed to a stretch knit (as described here)  This time I cut the back pieces to be 6cm longer at centre back, and narrower to fit the purchased hook and eye clasp.  This is my eighth time making this bra pattern up so obviously I love it!  It is one of the original designs of the late Kerstin Martensson, Swedish founder of KwikSew and a talented pattern maker.  The style is very much to my taste, which is why I chose it of course! and over time I’ve fine-tuned the fit by shaving off a little bit here and there,: so it fits me really well.

The bra lining pieces were cut from the white unprinted bits around the edge, and the bra underlining and undies liners from ivory jersey knit.  I chose black lingerie elastic to match the black centres of the poppies, and fortunately my Spotlight currently has lingerie rings andsliders both in white, so they match each other.  Woot!  I stocked up!!

The two pairs of matching knickers are based onThe Makers Journal Tried & True, the third and fourth times I’ve used it, and I’ve altered this pattern too to suit my personal tastes.  The first time I made it pretty much to pattern, the second and subsequent times I have made it to have a more substantial liner (as illustrated here), to be less high-rise, to scoop in at the front leg more, and to scoop out at the back leg more to give more bottom coverage.  These are small alterations but even 1cm makes quite a difference when you’re wearing them.  The closest I have made to the original pattern is the pair pictured on the far right in this post here.

Details:
Bra; KwikSew 3300 modified for woven fabric as specified here, screen-printed white cotton, my review of this pattern here
Matching undies; The Makers Journal Tried & True, modified, my review of this pattern here

pinterestmail

Screen-printing; a field of poppies

Hello!
I am doing a screen printing course!  I have tonnes of pretty patterns gleaned from Pinterest that I would loooove to print onto my own fabric, but I think my aspirations might be a tad more ambitious than my abilities, hehe.  Whatevs, it should be fun and I am finally making use of my screen, bought using a Jacksons gift voucher that was on the point of expiration.  Confession time; this purchase actually took place about seven years ago (eep!) and up until now the screen has been utterly and perfectly pristine and unsullied by anything so messy as actual fabric paint …  perish the thought!  Well, it has at last had its initiation ceremony  ðŸ™‚
I decided to start with something simple; my first effort is a stylised field of poppies.  The screen print component is a imperfect grid of wonky red dots, like a really lovely Nano Iro pocho dots pattern that I saw for $50/m in a local shop which shall remain nameless.  Ah, the joys of living in Perth…. hey, I’m all for supporting local businesses and have got nothing against someone making a living, but a line has to be drawn somewhere.  $50/m is overstepping somewhat, no?!
I used a lightweight white cotton from Spotlight, and mixed a deepish but still quite intense red/orange, like the colour of a, well the colour of a poppy!  The break-down is about two thirds mid orange (which I would describe as garishly, in-your-face, “life jacket” orange), a third new mid red (which I would describe as “crimson”) and the tiniest touch of black.  I added about 10% transparency medium but I don’t think this quantity was enough to make any difference.  After it had dried I went over and manually added a black dot in the middle of each orange dot using a Sharpie laundry marker.
“Registering the print”, which is printer’s speak for lining up the screen so that repeat designs sit seamlessly alongside each other and you are not supposed to be able to tell where one stops and the next starts; is a heck of a lot harder than it appears… my nine prints are laughably misaligned.  I think though that since my design is random and intentionally wonky it can almost get away with having a less than perfect line-up.
This fabric to appear in sewn-together garment form very soon… stay tuned!

pinterestmail

The Alessa hoodie

… so called because Alessa of Farbenfreude gave this fabric to me in a recent giveaway… thank you so much Alessa!
It is very nice fabric, a largish piece of soft fluffy charcoal grey non-stretchy knit stuff with a diagonally printed black check pattern, and a smaller piece of raspberry red woven fabric with an almost chenille-y quality to it.  They went so nicely together so I decided to combine the two in one garment.

The cat should give an idea of the scale here; there was not much fabric and I had to get creative to make the most of the small pieces.  And just to clarify; that is not a whinge… I LOVE sewing challenges like this!
I made a slightly A-line tunic with plain set-in sleeves, and I cut the neckline and hoodie piece using KwikSew 3667.  I’ve used this hood piece in several garments now, and this pattern was also given to me, by Mary of biblioblog a few years ago.  I am so lucky to have such nice blogging friends!

Um, the hoodie looks quite different from my initial plan, which wasn’t a hoodie at all.  This is a recurring phenomenon, I make plans but frequently change my mind once I get cutting.  Indecisive? maybe! … but at least something will get made.  And I’m very pleased with the contrasting hood and welt pockets.
Welted pockets … woot!  I had just barely enough fabric for these!  I used the pocket piece from Vogue 1115, and the contrasting welt is not a separate piece; to save fabric I cut the upper pocket piece with an interfaced extension at the opening, which folds back on itself to the inside becoming an integrated welt…  doing this skips a seam underneath, resulting in a little less fabric bulk.  I might just stick to this method from here on out!

All the raw seam allowance edges are overlocked together, and then I applied a cheat’s version of flat-felling because the fabric is quite “bouncy” and the seams didn’t press flat very satisfactorily.  This involved just laying the overlocked seam allowance down to one side and top-stitching them to the garment.

Details:
Hoodie; self-drafted, with the hood piece from KwikSew 3667
Jeans; Burda 7863 modified, ivory stretch denim, details here
Boots; nylon, from Zomp shoes

pinterestmail
Switch to mobile version
↓