Tag Archives: Sienna

Burda 7723, a pattern review

13/03/2011 6:17 am \ 17 Comments \

These shorts aren’t new here on the blog, I made them over a year ago and have worn them a zillion times since, although not for Me-Made-March yet.  Since this version here was my first attempt at this now fairly well-worn pattern, and the only time I’ve made them up exactly to pattern I thought it was high time to review it… albeit belatedly.  The review I submitted to Pattern Review is below, if you’re interested.
Incidentally the shirt is another of my most-used patterns, Burda 7767 that I’ve made up possibly a dozen times now (?I think?), and also the first cab-off-the-rank from this pattern and the only version made up exactly to this pattern too!!  Hehe, it’s pretty rare for me to stick identically to a pattern the second or more times around… and not introduce little variations and/or improvements (that’s debatable…) for subsequent garments.  Not always fabulously successful alterations, I hasten to point out…  but that’s the beauty of being handy with a needle, if you’re not completely happy you can take steps.  Like I did yesterday…

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, pink linen with navy blue top-stitching and buttons, close-up details here, my review of this pattern here
Shorts; Burda 7723, white linen, close-up details here
Thongs; Mountain Design
Nail varnish; Glamourpuss, BYS

Pattern Description:
High-waisted shorts; with double pleated front, fly front, front slanted pockets.  There is included as well patterns for a pair of trousers, and two variations of a jacket.
Pattern Sizing:
European 34-44 (8-18)  I made up a straight size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
very easy
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love just about everything about this pattern!  The pattern is very well drafted and goes together easily and well.  The pockets are generous and deep, and the double pleated front allows enough fabric fullness for you to shove your hands down deep in those pockets with plenty of room.
Some very very minor issues; it doesn’t have a zip placket, but this is a super easy feature to add yourself.  Also the waistband is not shaped, so subsequent times I’ve made up this pattern I’ve sewn a diagonal joining seam in the centre back of the waistband to accommodate my sway-back.
Fabric Used:
linen
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I added rear patch pockets.  Subsequent times I’ve made up this pattern, I’ve lengthened and flared the legs slightly,  added the aforementioned zip placket, and for one version re-drafted the front piece to eliminate the front pleats, as I was using heavily embroidered fabric and wished to avoid the extra bulk of the pleats.
As mentioned above, I’ve sewn the centre back seam of the waistband with a diagonal seam, to accommodate a swayback.
The waistband is designed to be a double width, that folds in on itself to form its own facing; for two versions of these shorts using bulkier fabric I joined a strip of fashion fabric to a strip of thinner cotton fabric to become the inner facing.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I’ve sewn this shorts pattern up four times now.  It is my tried and true go-to shorts pattern.  I highly recommend this pattern!
Conclusion:
Absolutely, this is one of my favourite patterns that I turn to first when I’m considering a pair of shorts.  I think the shape is very flattering and I love the wide waistband, that sits firmly and securely up high on the waist, holding everything in.

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Dressing for the office…

11/03/2011 6:00 am \ 11 Comments \

hehe…
No really, this is what I wore to the office, today!  I know it appears that I spend all of my time gallivanting about in the great outdoors, and let’s face it, the pictorial evidence is here that I am out and about communing with nature most days… but I do actually have a job.  Very fortunately for me we have an office at home and I am quite allowed to dress for my office anyway I choose.  Every now and again I do feel compelled to dress up all smartish, like I am “going to work” and need to feel appropriately apparelled to get in the mood.  Sometimes I do have to get dressed up, for some work-related stuff.  But it’s nice that I don’t always have to, I guess otherwise I wouldn’t want to every once in a while.
Anyway, introducing here some new shorts!
(Dressmaking details lower, if you’re interested…)

Details:
Shorts; much modified Burda 7723, yellow embroidered cotton, details below
Top; Butterick 4985, baby blue embroidered cotton with lace pockets and a lace tie (normally hanging down the front, not the back; it’s a bit windy today)
Thongs; Mountain Designs
Nail varnish; Glamourpuss, BYS

The shorts are made using my old favourite Burda 7723, out of fabric I bought before Christmas, so it hasn’t been a super long-term stash resident.  I was originally planning a little skirt but by the time I decided I wanted shorts it had sold out from the fabric store, and I had to make do with what I had.  Even so, I managed to make my usual modifications to this pattern, namely adding as much length as I could (about 6-7cm) and flaring the legs as much as I could (roughly a few cm)
The fabric is a lovely very strong acidic yellow cotton, with heavily embroidered flowers.  The embroidery on these flowers is extremely thick, and actually on the wrong side of the fabric the back of the embroidery is just as thickly interwoven with yarn as the front, which made working with it a little tricky.  To remove bulk (and because of the fabric shortage) I used the fashion fabric for only the upper part of the pocket and yoke piece, attaching pieces of a much thinner cotton for the invisible lower parts of the pocket.  Like wise, the same plain fabric was used for the pocket piece, and for the waistband facing.

Also because of bulkage, and fabric shortage, I drafted the pattern to be flat-fronted, and removed the pleat that is at the front of this pattern.
Also added a zip placket… I took a few pictures of this very simple modification.  This is such an easy thing to add to your waist-banded pants and shorts; I don’t know why the pattern companies don’t always have it as a standard feature.  You simply overlock the raw edges of a strip of fabric, folded wrong sides together.   This little bit was from the selvedge, and so unembroidered…  Interesting side-note?  I had previously used up most of the selvedge already for another project, here.

Then you sew it in place behind the left front of your zip.

Finally, when adding the waistband you then enclose the top end in the waistband along with the rest of the top end of your shorts.  Voila.  Super easy, and you’ll never have to worry about cold zip teeth against your tender tummy skin again, or even worse, skin getting caught in zipper teeth… ouch.

You can probably just make out in this close-up here where I had to remove an embroidered flower from the right front fly area, just to fold the fabric sufficiently get the zip in.  Seriously, those flowers are a lot bulkier than they look, no kidding I had about a whole handful of thread from just taking out this one flower here… I had to do the same thing several times along the waistband too.
I found this perfect button, made of coconut shell.   Unfortunately you couldn’t just buy one button, like I wanted, they came in packs of four…  Tres cute, no…?  Now I just have to find some project that is going to be perfect for those remaining three buttons…

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What day is it today?

08/03/2011 7:08 am \ 15 Comments \

Oh yeah.  The Tuesday after a long weekend always leaves me a little befuddled.  True, I’m easily befuddled.

Details:
Hoodie; adapted from Butterick 4985, added a hood and with different sleeves, white lace, more details here
Petticoat (not seen) Burda 8071, beige silk satin, more details here
Skirt; skirt “m” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like by Natsuno Hiraiwa, pinky-grey linen mix, more details here
Shoes; Country Road

 

I’ve been awarded an Awesome Blog award, by Stacy!  Thank you so much, Stacy!
Now I’ve got to think of 7 things about myself.  Oh dear.  This bit is really hard, because I can never think of a thing… but this blog is about sewing, knitting and fashion, so I guess I’ll try to aim in that direction.

1.  I can’t get enough of fashion. I subscribe to Australian Vogue, and I get so excited when I see my new Vogue magazine sitting in the letterbox.   Part of me just wants to dive in immediately and devour it cover to cover, but I’m strict with myself.  I only allow myself to thoroughly soak up little portions at a time, in quiet moments.  So I can stretch it out over the month.

picture from here

2. I hardly ever sew up a muslin.  That is how slack I am.  Once in a blue moon I will bother with this tiresome task.  99.99999% of the time I’ve felt no need to go down this path, and have just fitted with the garment along the way.  This has always worked just fine.   I just find muslins to be almost completely unnecessary.  Especially for simple daywear.  I admire people who go that extra (superfluous) mile, and admit the necessity when dealing with wedding dresses say, or very expensive or rare fabrics, but when it’s a simple little cotton or linen dress well really…   Of course I am completely contradicting myself because I recently published here exhaustive pictures of my glove muslins.  Yah, I’m a hypocrite, so?  And also having said that, I am planning a tailored jacket for this winter, for which I probably will do a muslin.  yawn.  I promise there will be no photos.

3. Commenting… I guess I might say something here about commenting in blogland.  Commenting is kind of tricky, is it not?  Everyone seems to employ a different MO.  I personally hop over to somebody’s blog to reply to their comment, or if someone has asked a direct question which I think others might wish to know I write the answer in my own comments section as well.  I also apologise in both our comments sections if someone has seemed offended by my blog post.  I try to visit everybody’s blog who has commented.  Sometimes in my travels I’ve noticed that other people reply to comments in their own comments section all the time.  This tickles me, that someone might be having a conversation with me in their own comments section.  If you have replied to my comment in your own comment section then there is a pretty good chance I haven’t read it because I never return to the same comment section again.

4. I just asked my son for suggestions, and he said “favourite colour”.  Thanks darling.  But even that helpful suggestion has me writhing in indecision, because my favourite colour changes seasonally.  Or monthly.  Or even weekly..?  I used to have a stock standard answer “white” to that question, to make it easy.  But really I love all colours and it would be impossible to pick a favourite!
Perhaps I could talk about least favourite colour combinations.  I definitely avoid certain combinations and especially in my apparel.  Black and red together is a big one.  I look truly awful in that combo.  Ill.

5.I’ve been sewing for about thirty years.  Wait I might have used that one previously, for some other award.  Meh.  It takes up another “thing”.

6. Knitting; I’ve probably been knitting for just as long, but less consistently.  My mother taught me to knit, as she did sewing too, and my first project was a dark green scarf for our cat Fluffy.  I struggled through a few rows, about 10cm worth.  It was extremely holey and weird; “arty” is the nicest way of putting it.  Like contemporary modern art.  My mother finished it off with her beautiful even stitches, and I forced Fluffy to wear it once or twice.  She was a patient cat.

(this isn’t Fluffy but she did look a bit like this…  I found this picture on the internet, here)

7.  A final thought, about fabric in sewing; I think the fabric you choose is the deciding factor in how well your garment is going to turn out.  Truly, locating a really good fabric supply is the seamstress’ best asset.  I once formulated a theory, that you should be able to make something really fabulous out of any fabric and that a person is only limited by their imagination.  I do still harbour that belief; but I temper it with this truth, that with really beautiful fabric you are much more likely to have a fabulous result.  I might add, that’s been theory hard tested around here and a truth hard won…

picture from here

So now I’ve got to pick 5 wonderful bloggers to pass this award on to.
Your mission, should you choose to accept it….
Veronica, from Veronica Darling
Sherry, from pattern ~ scissors ~ cloth
Sharon, from Communing with Fabric
Terri, from Rags in the Machine
Jacinta, from ModelMumma

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Keepin’ cool

03/03/2011 6:22 am \ 10 Comments \

I’m sorry I’m not very exciting today… just keeping cool.  I flopped slid gracefully into the pool as soon as I got home from walkies.  And this is the second day in a row Sienna has wanted to be in the photo with me.  Often she is there, somewhere, not necessarily in the frame but popping about in the background sniffing at trees and doing her own thing.  Lately she just wants to sit down where I am, so it must be hot for her too…

Details:
Dress; Simplicity 3745, modified to be more streamlined, white swiss dotted voile and lace
Scarf; a strip of turquoise silk chiffon, with a rolled hem edge
Thongs; Mountain Designs
Nail Varnish; Fool’s Paradise, BYS

Now the above picture isn’t at all exciting, but lets move on and have a look at some really interesting fashion-y stuff…  I watched our recorded Oscars last night, and I agreed with Beth that while a lot of the gowns were sadly unexciting this year, Cate Blanchett had the standout most beautiful gown of the evening.  Givenchy Haute Couture; a little part of me kinda hopes she will one day select something Australian for one of these events, but truthfully if I was in her position I’d be going Parisian too, probs. Whatever, Cate Blanchett never disappoints on the red carpet, and this was no exception.  The details of this gown!  I adored the little touch of gold at the shoulders and going down the back, setting off the soft feminine lilac to perfection, and I wished the camera was able to zoom in and show us exactly what those little bobbly things were going down the front of the bodice.  Whatever they were, they added just the right amount of decoration and interest.  I also loved that boxy square line of the sleeves and bodice; unusual and therefore a touch above, beautifully proportioned and realised.  Really, there was nothing not to love about that gown…  and the colours were perfect for her complexion.  She looked magnificent, as she always does.

As well, Helen Mirren look superb, a serial Best Dressed lady in my book.  With Vivienne Westwood she could hardly go wrong, no?  VW is usually so out there and her designs incredibly intricate and architectural; often gravity defying in their artistry, one of the reasons I find her so inspiring.  But for this occasion she toned down her usual flamboyance and produced a restrained and superbly structured gown, the soft sheen as well as the drab grey/pewter-y colour of that fabric showing off so well the elegant folding and draping that that designer is so admired for.

And I also loved the Dolce and Gabbana gown worn by Scarlet Johanssen.  Of course she is a natural beauty who would look good in anything, but even so her choice of gown this time was particularly stunning.  Form-fitting lace in that deliciously sophisticated berry colour, backless, and a divinely shaped skirt with a train?  Just too beautiful…

(I would credit these photos if I could remember which particular site I found them on.  There are many many many copies out there in the internet…)

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Burdastyle 10-2010-111A, a pattern review

02/03/2011 5:50 am \ 15 Comments \

Remember I wrote I’d made some matching shorts to wear under this little sundress?  Well, here they are.  Whew, they are so so short and flimsy I probably wouldn’t be wearing them on their own like this if I didn’t have a completely quiet non-sociable day dog-walking and house-cleaning planned, oh, yeah, hehe and of course a bit of office work too (I have to say that bit because my husband sometimes reads this…)  These little things are no more substantial than boxer shorts, so I feel a bit underdressed in them here.  But on the beach I was OK since there were not many people, and those that I did encounter today were equally if not more sparsely attired.
Actually I made these about 2.5-3cm longer than the pattern stipulated, as long as my scrap of fabric allowed me to make them, so can you imagine how tiny these would be otherwise?

Details:
Shorts; Burdastyle magazine 10-2010-111A, Japanese cotton
Top; “b” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white cotton
Sunnies; RayBan

Here is the review I submitted for this pattern:

Pattern Description: 
Shorts with fly front, faced waist, welt pockets, slanted front pockets and underlay with button for internal closure.  This pattern basically does for three different garments in the magazine; short shorts, bermudas, and longer trousers, with a few different pattern pieces and modifications.  To save myself future effort, I traced out the pieces and variations for all three at the same time.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42.  I traced a size36, graduating out at the hips to a size 38 because I like a bit of flare, plus I was using flimsy fabric that wouldn’t have looked nice in a form-fitting garment.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Now here I have to be honest and say no, they were not, particularly!  If you’ve never sewed a welt pocket before, the instructions provided for sewing these would be awfully confusing.  I’ve sewn plenty, and these instructions still had me scratching my head a bit over what was the joining line, the abutting line and the stitching line.  And as for the instructions for the underlay, zip and the waist facing, well these were VERY confusing also.  When I read the instructions out aloud to my family it sounds hilarious because they are so crazy confusing….  like trying to build a space station or something…  I misunderstood the zip attachment and sewed the zip in place with a nice curved topstitching on the shorts front.  This turned out to be wrong.  Right near the end I had an a-ha moment and had to unpick the zip almost completely to do it the right way NOT attached the the shorts front, but only the facing, so I could insert the waist facing all neatly tucked in and finished around the zip tape and underlay as the pattern intended.  This was one of those times when an illustration ala how the envelope patterns do it would have helped a tonne.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that only a tiny amount of fabric is needed for these shorts.  I think I had roughly 60-70cm of 115cm fabric, which was just enough except for pocket innards, for which I used other scraps.  The pattern is well drafted and fits together well.  I like the clean lines of the shorts, no pleating or waistband gives them a contemporary and streamlined look.
What I don’t like; if I’d made them up to the pattern they would have been too short for my liking!
Fabric Used:
Lightweight cotton.  The pattern recommends brushed wool.  I think a thicker fabric like this would work really well.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added about 2.5-3cm in length.  These would have been way too short for me to wear out in public otherwise!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I do recommend this cute little pattern, and now I “get” the instructions I will sew these again in a more appropriate fabric, such as corduroy, and definitely adding the extra length.  Although if you are under the age of twenty, the shorter length would be fine.
Conclusion:
I sewed these to wear under a short little sundress of the same fabric, for modesty.  Their streamlined non-bloomer-y shape makes them perfect for this purpose.  So I am very happy with them.

 

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Burda 7834, a pattern review

09/02/2011 6:03 am \ 17 Comments \

I’ve made another little top using Burda 7834.  It is such a quick and easy little pattern, I can see myself using it a few more times, in spite of the fact I will have to re-grade it each time I use it, as Cassie cut it out to a smaller size than I use…  well, it is her pattern so I suppose that is OK…!
This top is using up some scraps; the silver-grey portion is the last leftovers from this skirt, and the contrasting stripe detail was juuuust squeezed out from the the remaining fabric from this shirt.  Oooh, I just feel so undeservedly virtuous and pat-myself-on-the-back-ish when I use up some leftovers…!  like I’ve been a really good greenie and I’m doing just a tiny weensie little bit to Do My Bit in the planetary scheme of things.  As well as satiating my inner scrooge, by getting a free top from otherwise rubbish-y little scraps!
The funny thing about this top along with its apricot mate, that I made the previous weekend, is that although they are entirely different colours, I used exactly the same topstitching thread, and the same colour zip for both tops; pale grey.  How’s that for weird?  Assessing the zips available, this colour was the logical choice in each case…  which goes to show… something, I don’t know what.  Probably nothing.  Except that colour matching follows no hard and fast rules and can be a purely subjective exercise.
So, on to the review…

Pattern Description
Loose-fitting, short kimono sleeved, V-neck top with a central back zip, and separate pieces for arm bands, neckline band and under-bust band
Pattern Sizing
6-16, European 32-42; I made a size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?
I like that it is a very quick and easy pattern, and makes up a cute little top.
I was only a little unhappy that (when the instructions are followed) it is not finished to super high standards on the inside.  For example, the side seam allowances end up visible on the underarm sleeve edge, whilst I would prefer for them to be encased within the two layers of the sleeve band.  Also, the neckline band at the back has to be folded back over the zip tape and doesn’t enclose it within the two layers, which would be a preferable and neater finish.    However if you don’t mind a bit of extra fiddling you can adjust these features to be more well finished off on the inside.  If you are just after a quick and easy little top and aren’t really worried much about perfect insides, then the method given is just fine.
Just an extra thought; doing up the central back zip might be awkward for some who are no longer super agile.
Fabric used:
I’ve made this up once in crushed silk and once in a synthetic stuff with contrasting cotton mix bands, but I think any crisp light blouse fabrics would be perfect.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None.
Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?
Definitely I will sew this again, and I do recommend it to others.
Conclusion:
A nice and simple little top, both in looks and construction.  A useful casual wardrobe-builder to have in your collection.

btw, I just have to say something here, my own opinion… occasionally I come across a review in Pattern Review where under “were the instructions easy to follow?” a reviewer writes something like “didn’t even look at the instructions, lol!” or something equally breezy and dismissive.  In such cases I have to confess I usually read no further as (imo) this is not a review but a seamstress being a bit of a show-off, like the instructions are beneath his/her notice.  If you are not going to even read the pattern instructions, let alone assess them, then your “review” is worth nothing.  There are going to be some beginner seamstress’ out there who will want to know if the instructions have any difficult or unusual techniques, or nasty surprises, etc., before they fork out the money to buy the pattern.   I always thought this was the purpose of Pattern Review, but I get the feeling a few see it as a forum to showcase their creations, nothing wrong with that per se, but we have BurdaStyle for that purpose.  If the instructions are basic and easy to follow, then just say so without the condescending attitude.  Just saying…

Details:
Top; Burda 7834, silver grey crepe-y stuff with striped cotton mix contrasting bands
Shorts; Burda 7723, white linen
Thongs; Mountain Design
Sunnies; RayBan

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Some new stuff

02/02/2011 10:12 am \ 17 Comments \

Since I picked out some photos from Oregon yesterday, I thought it the appropriate day to wear and show the souvenirs I bought whilst there… and then I also remembered and pulled out this new top that I finished only just before we left on our holiday but didn’t get a chance to photograph for posterity.
The top is made from some of my Christmas fabric; a crushed shot silk from Fabulous Fabrics.  It is woven with a brilliant orange weft onto a bright turquoise warp.  It never fails to amaze me how such bright bright colours when interwoven in this way can result in such a dullish coloured surface.  As well, the fabric doesn’t look as glossy as I have come to expect with silk.  Because I am suspicious by nature I did a quick burn test to check if it really was silk or a synthetic masquerading as such, and it passed.  So I presume the reason for the lack of silky sheen is that the crushed nature of the fabric breaks up the surface plane resulting in smaller areas to catch and reflect the light at any point of view. 

The pattern is Burda 7834, a little top pattern Cassie bought and made for herself and which I snuck out of her collection to use for myself… because I liked hers so much, hehe.  She had cut out an 8 for her own top, but it was a pretty simple matter to grade the necessary areas up to a 10 to fit me.
So I really should do a review here of this great little pattern… buuut I’m not.  Sorry.  Maybe later.  Been feeling a little flat and exhausted since we got back actually… not sure whether to blame the heat or post-holiday let-down.  Or just me…
And you probably can’t tell from this photo above, but it is blowing a bonafide gale here.  Even standing within the sheltering boughs of this tree we are being buffeted about by insanely strong eddies… and I was really timing the photography here to coincide as much as possible with a lull between gusts to avoid looking too hilariously windswept.  Man, I’d forgotten how blustery it can get on the foreshore in the afternoon…
Oh and please note Sienna’s lovely new professional do.  She has had a visit from the mobile doggie beauty salon and especially wanted to show the results off here today…  Doesn’t she look absolutely gorgeous?? a bit better than the hack job from before, hehe.

The pendant on my necklace is a tiny real pine cone that is encased in gold.  Isn’t it beautiful?  I really don’t go for accessories in a huge way, but when I do they tend to be small in scale and delicate.  Large scale chunky jewellery annoys me big-time, and I have to force myself to wear the bigger pieces I do have.  I once read something in a Trinny and Susannah book about accessorising, where they decreed (as they do) that women with large bones should gravitate to large scale jewellery and small-boned women will feel more comfortable with small scale jewellery.  So maybe this means I have small bones; although I have to confess I’ve always thought of myself as tall and big-boned; with “child-bearing hips” as they used to say… so I don’t know really!
The earrings have stones in them that are called Mount St Helens emeralds, although of course they are not actually emeralds at all, but really made from fused ash from the volcanic eruption.  So, yeah, just regular green glass …  But still pretty, and uniquely from that part of the world.

Details:
Top; Burda 7834, crushed shot silk
Skirt; Skirt “m” from Unique Clothes Any WayYou Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, pink/grey linen mix
Shoes; Perrini, had forever
Sunnies; RayBan
Necklace and earrings; bought in central Oregon USA

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A walk in the park

07/01/2011 5:45 am \ 7 Comments \

A day of colourlessness (ness, ness) is often followed by a more colourful day, in my world.
And today is a bad hair day, sorry.  Thus the pony.  I am getting my hair cut this afternoon, and I am so sorely tempted to wait until I am salon-coiffured all fabulously before taking a photo… but I am just too busy later on today.  So a dog-walking photo with messy hair it had to be.
In sewing news, I am nearly finished another little floral floaty summer dress, and just needed some lining fabric so headed up to my favourite fabric shop.  And they were having a massive pattern sale!  So I just had to…  Fired up with enthusiasm and a misguided optimism about my own time-management abilities, I bought three new dress patterns, below.  I’ve got so many new patterns to try out…   I’d better get cracking.

Details:
Dress; partly based on McCalls 4453, partly my own design, red/pink polyester chiffon, to see this dress styled in 6 different ways go here
Ballet top; Metalicus, found secondhand
Sandals; Vincenzo, from Soletta shoes
Sunnies; RayBan
Nail varnish; BYS Mint Condition

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