Category Archives: Uncategorized

Light summer cardigan: a tute

When the summers are long and hot like they are here, and your daily activities include getting out and about in the sun a lot you need lots of light cool clothing that still provides protection from the sun.  I could go out in camisoles and singlets every day, but like all Aussies I worry about skin cancer a lot, and although I slather on the sunscreen each morning it’s good to have some sort of light garment to pop on which covers your shoulders. 
I made one of these cardigans last summer and found it invaluable, so decided to make another. 
(I actually made this particular specimen a few weeks ago and amazingly remembered to take pictures of the construction process, but promptly forgot about them until this morning… yeah, haha)
First, draft for yourself a basic cardigan shape, either from scratch or using a favourite cardigan whose shape you love.  I have a wonderful Marilyn Seyb cardigan I bought in New Zealand which I think is very flattering to me and its style suits much of my wardrobe.  It’s now seen better days sadly but I just can’t bring myself to ever part with it because I love it so…  Make any adjustments to your pattern to fit your personal preferences, such as adding length etc. at this paper/muslin stage.
The ideal fabric for this project is a light stretchy net which doesn’t ravel or fray, as the raw edges will be on show.  I used two layers, the inner one white net, the outer a shimmery mauve/silver embroidered net.  Its not necessary that they have the same stretch ratio as each other, but they do have to have at least as much stretch as your original cardigan you drafted your pattern from…  Cut out your pieces, remembering to include seam allowances to the shoulders, side seams and all sleeve seams.

Now, carefully remove a 2cm strip from the front neck, back neck, end of sleeve and bottom hem edges of your top layer.  I find it easiest to use a rolling cutter for this.
Lay your outer layer front and back together matching shoulder seams, then your inner layer on the outside of this, matching the edges at the sleeve side of the fabric.  There should be the 2cm extra length of your inner layer extending into the neckline edge of your cardigan (see photo)  Overlock the shoulder seams.

Layer the inner and outer sleeve pieces together, matching armhole edges, and with outer layers together, pin to the armhole edge of your cardigan body, matching all edges.   Overlock armhole seams.  In the photo below, one armhole seam has been finished at right, the other at left has been pinned ready for overlocking. 

Now with right sides of the outer layers together, pin and overlock the sleeve seams and side seams in one seam.  Turn your cardi right side out.

Now choose some sort of band and closure material.  For my first effort (in this photo below) I used some grosgrain ribbon and a single cute brass and enamel button and sewed a button hole in the grosgrain ribbon for it.  For my new cardigan I used a scrap of leftover crotchet border lace.  Pin this around the neckhole edge of your cardigan and stitch into place.  I didn’t have enough to go all the way around my cardigan, but it doesn’t really matter if the lower edges are loose…  I then sewed on some charcoal grey velvet ribbon for a closure.

Weave in all the loose overlocking threads into the seams, et voila!  Your cardigan is finished, and wasn’t that the easiest thing ever!  (My apologies to advanced seamstress’ who find these instructions laughably easy…)
 I’ve found these light cardigans perfect for hot days as they are so light and airy you barely notice they’re there but they still provide protection from the sun and are nice if you don’t want to expose too much skin to the whole world.

Details:
Cardigan; white and mauve net, own design
Skirt; Old Khaki, from Capetown, South Africa
Camisole; Country Road
Necklace; souvenir from Egypt
Sandals; Vicenza, from Soletta shoes

pinterestmail

Valentine’s Day picnic

A hot hot hot Valentine’s Day yesterday, but by sunset a light breeze rippled through to freshen the air and the river foreshore was romantically dotted here and there with picnicking couples quietly toasting the day.  As the sun set the sky put on a blazing show of colour, signalling another day of sunshine to come….
As my grandmother used to say: Red at night, shepherd’s delight, red in the morning, shepherd’s warning.  It goes without saying that we have had no red mornings for quite some time now….
I wore my white dotted swiss voile dress from Simplicity 3745 that has been such a useful cool little dress in spite of my initial misgivings that its vaguely maternity-like shape would not suit me; and my hot pink Metalicus cardigan, by sunset the temperature had dropped to the extent I was glad I had the cardi with me.
We sipped champagne and beer respectively, and feasted on feta-and-salmon salad and mangoes;  and it was gorgeous.  A nice contrast to last year, when I booked us into a usually nice restaurant where we were “assembly-lined” through a fairly unimaginative set-course menu at a grossly inflated price… 
(Oh, and in case anyone was wondering whether my “chocolate-y” hints of the day before were noticed and acted upon, well ahem, they were not.  I think my husband needs hints of a far more direct variety in future!!!)

Details:
Dress; Simplicity 3745 with minor variations; white dotted swiss voile and lace
Cardigan; Metalicus, gift from my girlfriends
Scarf; from Italy, gift from my parents

pinterestmail

Tea Cosy, specimen 12

Here is the tea cosy I made for my friend K for her birthday last year.  It is the last of the Roly Poly’s I made from the excellent book, “Wild Tea Cosies” by Loani Prior.
My friend K is the most highly organised lady I know.  She is also thoughtful, caring and considerate, and a really good true friend, in fact she’s one of those people that others are naturally drawn to and want to be her friend.
Photographed in her beautiful sleek stainless steel kitchen in it’s usual spot… 

Geez.  I may be going crazy here, but every, like every time I proofread my blog post before, and, er, frequently after posting too, I have written “form’ for “from”.  It’s like a conspiracy.  I swear.  A sly, devious, computer keyboard conspiracy designed to do my head in.  It’s getting to be kind of hilarious, in a slightly insane way….
oh, happy Valentine’s Day, all!  I hope everyone enjoys time with a special someone….  
We’re going on a romantic candlelit picnic down by the foreshore this evening, so I’ll post pics of my outfit tomorrow…

pinterestmail

Chocolate, chocolate, and more chocolate…

 Dug out the Bouchee dress again and am wearing it with my big wooden-beaded necklace.  Today the necklace is bringing to my mind a display cabinet in a chocolate shop; an array of glossy Lindt truffles, strung together with Maltesers and chocolate coated macadamias; with the silver charms like the crumpled silver foil unwrapped from their bonbons and tossed carelessly aside…
In fact I’m feeling today I look like a long tall glass of Milo, laced with rich chocolate-y goodness all the way up!  
Must be having a chocolate addiction “moment” and there’s only one cure for that one…

Details:
Dress; my own design based on McCalls 4454, chocolate cotton
Necklace; self-made
Shoes; la soffitadi Gilde
Nail varnish; own mix of BYS French White and Mint Condition

pinterestmail

Paint spattered ball gown

Since I mentioned my paint spattered ball gown yesterday, I thought I’d post pictures of it today, plus a picture of the dress that inspired me, to allay suspicions of “copying”.  (And just to clear up any misunderstandings, I am not a professional designer by any stretch of the imagination; I’m strictly an amateur who only sews for myself, and definitely not for money but for the love of it!)  And, new confession, I could have sworn my inspiration was a Dior gown, but I dug out my old Vogue magazine to check and it was actually a Dolce and Gabbana, so I’ll have to go back and correct yesterdays’ post…
So here is my gown….
There is a story behind the gown… the theme for the ball was “Happily Ever After”, so peoples’ costumes ran to fairy tales and nursery rhymes etc.  I wanted to do something a bit different as usual… In our marriage we have renovated several houses, and I have myself to date painted the interiors of a total of three houses now, top to bottom, so am pretty sick of house painting…  So for my “happily ever after” I’m dreaming of a world with the house finally painted and finished!!  What looks like a cigarette holder in my hand is actually a paint-brush, continuing the theme…
I used Butterick 4657, but altered the length to be a full length gown, and eliminated the sleeves and substituted the thinnest black satin ribbon straps I could find.  I laid out five metres of off-white satin on our lawn and literally spattered slightly thinned fabric paint (from Spotlight) directly onto the fabric and let it dry in the sun…then made the dress.  The separate petticoat is multi-layered black bridal tulle with triangular inserts sewn in around the bottom to get the puffiness required.
I hope I get another opportunity to wear this gown, it was a hit on the night and we laughed at my “happily ever after” as it was so relevant in our lives at the time…!

Details:
Gown; Butterick 4657 with minor variations, paint spattered satin
Petticoat; black bridal tulle, own design
Gloves; Dents, from David Jones
Shoes; Nina, from David Jones

Photos at left from Dolce and Gabbana, SpringRTW, 2008
pinterestmail

Design manifesto

I came across this on outsapop, and yeah, says it all really.
However, I’d just like to expound on my personal philosophy on the subtle differences between inspiration and copying, and a further explanation on my label “own design” that I use from time to time.
I am inspired all the time by so much around me, including the work of great and talented designers and am often moved to create something for myself based on someone else’s idea.  However, the end result is often, if not always, very different from my original source of inspiration, perhaps because of some design whim of my own, or a personal colour/length preference, or to fit a quirky design detail within the practical considerations of my life.  In this case I consider myself to be “inspired” by another’s work, rather than for me to be “copying” another’s work.  It’s very rare that I set out to reproduce a piece exactly, and I’ll always reference my inspirations! some small consideration to intellectual property!
I do use commercial patterns, for basic shaping and sizing, but a lot of the time will add my own twist to a pattern.  Altering a hemline, neckline or incorporating fitting features are just part and parcel of basic dressmaking variations; but anything more complicated than this and I will start to consider added features as my own design, and I’ll label it as such, even though I always display my original starter pattern for reference.
As for the self-imposed fear that the home seamstress often has of “ripping off” designer items….
Take a basic blazer.  Who invented the blazer?  Let’s even take it a step further and narrow it down to a military blazer.  It’s been around since Civil war era and I’m pretty sure no-one knows who actually invented the thing, but it definitely wasn’t Balmain and yet I see fashion editorials devoted to the horror of “Balmain copies”…. please, it’s a trend, not owned by anyone, and free for the home seamstress to play with as much as she/he fancies.
I say if you want to take a piece of cloth, make your own sharp shouldered jacket and put a few brass buttons and epaullettes on, then yay for you!  You made yourself a blazer!  You win!
On a related note, true story: a few years ago I made myself a ball dress that I spattered all over with fabric paint and told a friend that I got the idea from a Dolce and Gabbana gown.  He asked if I was worried about getting sued.  Seriously.
What are other’s opinions on this point?

pinterestmail

By the lake

Today the sky is grey and white; the sun is veiled behind an impenetrable smudgy mattress and there’s a cool sharp tang in the air; such a relief after a hot few days.  For those of us who like photography; we’re joyously bursting out of the shadows and into the open air with our cameras, as the lack of harsh direct sunlight means a return to our pictures of some focus, details and colour!  Yes, colour is the first victim in our strong Australian light, and as for details such as a pretty print or beautiful embroidery, well subtle contrasts just disappear into a general blob of indeterminate brightness.
Another cause for general celebration is the opportunity for me to don a cardigan; and I JUST LOVE cardigans!  They’re a wardrobe item I can’t get enough of….  Oh, yeah, apart from shoes.  And sandals…. and, er, ok then, lots of other stuff too… oh,  I’m such a fashion sucker.
I left my sunnies off for this photo, partly because I felt I was wearing them way too much in my photos and I wanted to mix it up a little, and partly because I thought I could get away without them in this more subdued light, but it’s actually still pretty bright out today.  I’m trying hard not to squint in this photo, not very successfully I can see now.  Well, it’s actually supposed to be about the fashion and not about my face, really.
I’ve worn this dress on and off over summer; this is the one with a too-short zip that entails much wriggling and tugging to actually get on and off, imagine a deranged lunatic struggling with a strait-jacket in a padded cell and you’re getting some idea.  I love the embroidery and appliqué on this fabric, and the odd subdued colours.  I think they’re set off well with this bright aqua silk scarf, and a little demure charcoal cardigan.
Details:
Dress; my own design variations on New Look 6699, using two cotton prints
Cardigan; Country Road
Scarf; aqua silk chiffon, made by me
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, bought from Hobbs
Nail varnish; my own mix of BYS French White and Mint Condition
pinterestmail

Gelato colours

When wearing pastels, especially head-to-toe, one is in danger of looking sticky sickly sweet.  Additionally if the silhouette is too “safe” you may come across as grandmotherly or queen-motherish.  An outfit of this type needs some elements of hard-edge or rawness to save it; my ensemble here(worn yesterday) has a tweed skirt, a pink camisole and a little cardigan, all in safe pastel colours, so has all the sweet little old lady boxes ticked off right there.  Not my ideal look, obviously.  I think my normal style is aim for a little deconstruction, not too polished.  But I’m still liking this look here.
I think it’s the unfinished fringe on the edge of my skirt and the raw edges of my cardigan that save it from being too pretty and ordinary and give the outfit that little zing of deconstruction that is needed.  Although raw edges are seen everywhere now and hardly put you in the punk category anymore.  Perhaps it’s also my jade green pedicure that also adds that necessary unexpected note.  And my necklace, while composed of shades of pretty pink, has a kind of random twisty-ness quality to it.
So, “pretty in pink”?  Not what I’m aiming for, but chic enough to pass muster, hopefully.

Details;
Skirt; Vogue 7303, fabric handwoven by my Mum
Camisole; Country Road
Cardigan; own design, coffee and white net
Necklace; own design
Sunnies; RayBan
Shoes; op shop
Nail polish; own mix of BYS French White and Mint Condition

pinterestmail
Switch to mobile version
↓