apparently necessary…

Follow my blog with Bloglovin

sorry everyone, I am not trying to beg for followers but the bloglovin’ site requires this post in order for me to claim my blog, whatever that means.  I thought I had better do that!

And I made a button!!
My first.
Believe me, I have close to non-existent Photoshop expertise, but I found this great article and used the excellent Glass Button tutorial.  The process is broken down into steps of one syllable, making it reasonably easy for a beginner.  I chose an oceanic, bluey-greeny colour for my button; because blue-green glass is purdy  🙂 and the background is transparent, meaning you can see the background colour of your blog underneath it.
If anyone else wants to use it that is fine, just remember to change the link to have your blog address on bloglovin’, not mine.

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Just a spot of emerald

Top o’ the mornin’ evenin’ to you!!
St Patricks day seemed an appropriate occasion to pull out this length of emerald green corduroy from the stash and make it up into something.  Anything.  I bought this fabric from Spotlight, last year.  Of course it’s kinda ludicrous for me to be wearing a corduroy skirt today since it is a warm 31C here in Perth! but here ’tis, all the same.  A corduroy skirt is not so much weather-appropriate right now as it is weather-anticipatory… but I’m sure I’ll be grateful for it when more winter-y temperatures kick in.  And hey, isn’t Emerald the Colour of the Year, or something??  Woa!  Definitely a good day to be adding a little emerald green to my wardrobe!
I wanted a skirt that was a little boxy, blocky and oversized, rather than the usual, streamlined little A-line/pencil hybrid silhouette that I usually go for… so I started with a favourite basic pattern Vogue 8363 and played with the proportions.  I cut the skirt pieces a lot wider; probably roughly equivalent to a size 18 front/20 back; and  a waistband to be my usual size 10, and folded the excess width in pleats into the waistband; two single pleats at the front and two box pleats at the back.

I put in those fabulously deep, slanted front pockets in the pattern and left off a lining, since I think the oversize factor, or looseness of the skirt will help stave off any tights/skirt static electricity problem.  I’m thinking of making a separate petticoat if the tights adhesion issue does rear its ugly head.
Perusing the zips; usually an invisible zip would be my first choice but all the available colour options looked terrible with this rich emerald green; either too dark or too bright.  Nothing looked right.  The best colour match was this bright green dress zip, and I finally decided I could live with a dress zip in a skirt; sure, it is a casual choice but so is corduroy a casual fabric.  It’s been ages since I’ve put a dress zip in a straight seam without a fly, and I had to stop for a second and think it through again!
I got creative with the insides.  Do brightly contrasting “fun” interior details bother you?  Then look away now!  I’m afraid, without going out and buying new fabric, and I am trying to shop my stash as much as possible this year; the least offensive option was this violet/mauve shot cotton, leftovers from this top that I made for Mum.  I finished all the raw edges with HongKong seaming, and the waistband facing and pocket linings are also cut from this fabric.  The ultra good news: I have barely any scraps at all leftover from these two lengths of fabric now!

I’m very very happy with my boxy new skirt: I think it looks stylish and smart and it feels very easy wearing and comfortable. I think it will look terrific in winter; with my fitted cardigans, with button-up shirts tucked in, and tights and boots underneath.

Details:
Top; top “a” from shape shape (fornerly known as Unique Clothes Any Way You Like) by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white cotton, details here
Skirt; Vogue 8363 modified, emerald green cotton corduroy, my review of this pattern here
Shoes; c/o Misano

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10th – 15th March
(I’ve pledged to wear only clothes handmade by me this year and to sketch my daily outfits in my Fashionary.  I’m calling this the paper doll project)

from left:
billowy white shirt + embroidered yellow shorts
knots dress
billowy black shirt + black silk skirt w tulle underskirt
yellow pleated top, denim skirt, knitted green hoodie
charcoal refashioned top + charcoal skirt, raspberry jacket
eggplant dress, coffee net cardigan

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Knots

I’ve made a dress, utilising the design on p52 of Pattern Magic, by Tomoko Nakamichi.
This appears to be a fairly plain dress on a casual glance.  But it is not.  It has a “feature”:  a feature that like many Pattern Magic features, seems to the casual, non-sewing observer to be a superficially simple thing, like “so? what could possibly be difficult about that??” but in actuality, getting to the nitty gritty of it, is a fair dinkum epic saga to put together seamlessly and successfully.  In this case, the feature is that the bodice explodes out into an incorporated posy of entwined knots that looks sorta like a statement neckpiece, or maybe a 3D sculptural bib.  Prof Nakamichi describes it as “By bringing together several knots that resemble tiny bells I have created a unique garment that evokes the sounds of bells ringing”
This is achieved by the front being six pieces… four of these end in a long strip; which is later tied into knots which you weave together as artistically as you can.  Counting from a shoulder; sections 1 and 6; and sections 3 and 8; are each one piece; comprising two sections joined by a bridge, so these joining bridges have to be knotted before you can sew the top sections to the rest of the front. 

I made my dress using a light stone coloured, linen/silk mix, bought from Fabulous Fabrics about four years ago.  Yes! a long time ago!  This was another length of fabric previously Too Good To Actually Use.
Due to the nature of the design; some of the strips are cut on the bias and some on the half bias.  To save fabric and add stability I cut all the facing strips on the grain.  I faced and turned out each strip separately, and then later sewed on the bodice facings.  When it came to facing that front neckline, I sewed each section at a time and checked each obsessively for a smooth finish before proceeding to the next one; shoulders first and finishing at the centre front.

front bodice facing

The back is four pieces; interestingly in a princess seamed arrangement.  The dress closure is by invisible zip in the centre back seam, and the back neckline is a modest V-line.  I added deep, inseam side pockets, and attached a self skinny belt in the side seams to tie at the back.  This adds a bit of shape to it, and provides some visual interest at the back, which is otherwise rather plain.  The ends of the belt are tied in little knots, a tiny design echo of those knots at the neckline at the front.

This is probably one of the top ten most difficult makes I’ve ever attempted.  Vogue Advanced/Plus Difficile?? pfff, Pattern Magic farts in your general direction!*
However I am, in inverse proportion to the degree of difficulty involved; stupidly pleased with it.  I think maybe I am a sewing room masochist, deriving a perverse enjoyment from the torture of difficult dressmaking challenges.  What a weirdo, huh?  But I’m thinking of something easy next.

Monty Python of course!

Details:
Dress; adapted from the design on p53 of Pattern Magic 2 by Tomoko Nakamichi, light brown silk/linen
Shoes; new! for autumn!!  c/o Misano

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hello

4th – 9th March
(I’ve pledged to wear only clothes handmade by me this year and to sketch my daily outfits in my Fashionary.  I’m calling this the paper doll project)

from left:
blue denim/chambray dress + ecru jersey scarf
white cotton top with self necktie + red floral skirt
powder blue dress + white embroidered cut-out top
blue dress
white drape-y jersey top + lime print skirt
aqua dress with wave-y welted pockets

The last few days have been up and down.    More down than up, I’m afraid.  We are mourning the loss of my grandmother; in a not unexpected, but still very sad conclusion to a long illness.
My grandmother right up until quite an advanced age was just like all or any one of us who love to sew for ourselves and take pride in wearing our own creations.  She was a very accomplished self-seamstress and frequently made a lot of her own clothes.  I inherited a lot of my enthusiasm for sewing from her excellent example.  She favoured an early Jackie O silhouette, and tended to wear simple, solid colour sheath dresses with matching tailored cropped jackets and blazers when the weather permitted.   In winter she lived in straight pencil skirts with solid coloured sweaters and jackets, or plain twinsets.  Her tastes leant towards the unadorned.  My own style is moulded on this look to some extent too… she was a big influence.
She lived a wonderful, fulfiling and very long life, so I’m not writing this here to be sad, but just to give acknowledgement.  It didn’t feel right to not mention it at all, like nothing had happened.

On an up note; we’ve just attended Cassie’s graduation ceremony, and proudly watched as she received her Bachelor’s degree.  She has kept her job part time and is concurrently continuing with her Master’s degree this year, just as planned.

It’s funny/strange how life’s lows can be juxtaposed against life’s highs, side by side like that.  I’m just feeling … odd.

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Cut-out things

I made this little lace jacket/cardi/top thing many years ago, probably ten years ago! way before I started my blog, but even though it has appeared here a coupla times I’ve just realised it’s never been shown, as it were.  So here it is, up close and personal.
The design is my own, perhaps copied from something I saw in a magazine, I think.  It only took up a very small piece, about 50cm of embroidered cut-out linen from Fabulous Fabrics.  The sleeves are just little caps, extensions of the armholes.  All the raw edges are simply encased in self-made bias binding of white cotton, and at the waist is a drawstring in an inner casing, both also made from bias cut white cotton strips.  The neckline closes with a button and a little ribbon loop.  I used a tiny length of pale lavender satin ribbon for the loop because I didn’t have any white at the time, and it’s always bugged me that it’s not white.  Not so much that I’ve ever changed it, though!! so I guess it’s not that much of an annoyance to me, reeeally.  You can’t even see the ribbon when it’s buttoned up anyway  🙂
It’s still going strong, probably because it doesn’t get worn a whole bunch!  but I’ll never toss it out.  It’s nice to have as a hot weather “cardi”, for when I want to look smart.  And I’ve discovered it goes really nicely with these cut-out ballet flats… (woot)

Details:
Top; my own design, embroidered cut-out linen
Dress; Burda 8071, of pale blue silk, details here
Shoes; c/o Misano

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Raspberry cropped jacket; 6 different ways

I first made this raspberry red, bracelet sleeved, silk hessian jacket a couple of years ago, using Vogue 2894 and the squeensiest length of raspberry red silk hessian.  It felt like a miracle I was able to cut out the pattern pieces! but the fabric was obviously meant to become this jacket since it has become a staple piece in my wardrobe.  The jacket was originally posted here as part of another outfit, along with my review of the pattern.
Now in past 6 different ways posts I’ve delved into my wardrobe to come up with a whole bunch of outfits featuring the item … but this time I’ve gone for a retrospective look at some old outfits.  Five of these photos are from various me-made or self-stitched months… and it was quite interesting to look back seeking out old pictures again…
At left, on a freeeezing summer’s day in Paris, with black jeans and a soft grey hoodie, in a sorta Full Metal Alchemist get-up.  Yes, of course I watched the entire series, with my children, hehe.  Didn’t you?!!  Worth it, my friends.  Worth.  It.  And at right; worn with a white wrap-front blouse and my blue and white patchwork skirt, to a birthday do for my Mum…
raspberry1
At left; brightening up a plain but smart oatmeal dress, and chocolate gloves, tights and boots.  I later took Sam out to lunch for his birthday.  Incidentally, one of the really great things about documenting your outfits each in those me-made months is that you do have an instant mental snapshot of that day, which sure helps my sad old mind in recalling the day and just what I was doing.  Probably I would not remember a single second of this day, if I did not have the photo here….
At right; I never put this photo in my blog for some reason.  Probably decided I did not like the outfit after all or something, too much red and purple together but actually it’s not so bad!  I am wearing the jacket with my purple jeansa burgundy scarf, and an orange rtw cardigan.
raspberry2
At left; on a rainy but not too cold day in Paris; I wore the jacket with a navy/white striped Tshirt and a little ivory skirt.  btw, I didn’t intentionally put together a French “uniform” that day.  I only realised later on how super-cliched I looked.  Tourists, huh?  So embarrassing….!  At right; the jacket adds a touch of colour to an all–white outfit… here worn with my bamboo shoot top and a long layered lace-y skirt.
raspberry3
As the cooler weather starts to roll around again, I will be glad to pull this one out of the wardrobe and wear it again.  I’ve always loved the three quarter length sleeves.  Plus, it’s kinda chirpy and cheerful, and instantly adds a zing to any old thing it gets slung over.
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Linda Jackson; at the NGV

above: at left; silk chiffon gown; at right, screen printed kimono jacket

I was idly sorting out my phone the other day, and came across some pictures I snapped at the Linda Jackson Bush Couture exhibition, held in the National Gallery of Victoria.  I visited the gallery last September, and viewed the exhibition then.  These pieces are designed and created by the Australian artist and designer Linda Jackson, most of the examples made in the 1970’s-1980’s.
I’m afraid I no longer have the notes I took on the day, that I scribbled on a scrap of paper while I was studying the pieces, I must have stupidly thrown it out.  But I can still show these pictures to readers who may not be familiar with Linda Jackson and her exuberant aesthetic.
Linda Jackson took her inspiration from nature, and interpreted the Australian landscape into art and fashion by variously exploring screen-printing, applique, quilting, embroidery, patchwork and hand-painted fabrics as well as innovative piecing and regular sewing methods.
I took these photos with my phone, so please excuse any less than stellar image quality.  I did not use a flash but relied on the lighting in the gallery.  And incidentally, I looked for but found no signs forbidding photography, it was an open and free exhibition, and a guard saw me with my phone out in an obviously photo-taking attitude and simply smiled cheerfully at me, so I assumed photos were allowed.  However if they were not, and I am transgressing some copyright then someone please let me know and I will remove them immediately.
However I hope not, since I think some of my readers may not have come across her before, and will be as enthralled as I at her marvellous attention to detail, her eye for fabulous colour and intricate artistic design, and the superb execution in bringing her fantastical visions to life…
You can read a short bio of Linda Jackson here, see a selection of her artworks and clothing here, and other better photographs and examples of her work here

below at left, appliqued jacket and trousers and at right, patchwork ensemble
below; organza and silk dupion gown
below: jacket and trousers hand-knitted in the intarsia method
below: silk dupion gumleaf costume.  I cannot recall if this was screen-printed or applique…
below at left; handpainted coat, trousers and headscarf, at right screen-printed dress and coat
below at left; printed silk dress and headscarf, the print was designed by Linda Jackson I think as part of a collection for Oroton: and at right, a Waratah inspired gown and veil
These three dresses at the left are quite a different aesthetic to her usual bold and vivid style, featuring softer muted colours and more conventional design lines.  I probably would not have picked them as Linda Jackson’s if I hadn’t seen them here with my own eyes!
below: Sturt desert pea inspired ensemble, applique
below: handpainted silk dupion gown and ?cape?
below: quilted satin gown with veil.  Other gowns in the background that I foolishly did not photograph better.
I hope you enjoyed this look at the works of a prominent Australian designer.
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