sewing Archives - Page 36 of 41 - Handmade by Carolyn

Purple-y top

16/07/2016 11:21 am \ 17 Comments \ Carolyn

Here I am, waiting for the ferry to head off into town, and so I took a quick, in-the-wild photo of my new top. Thanks, random bench! for being a good little makeshift tripod, and I don’t mind at all that you snuck into my photo!

OK. Remember how I said I had enough of the purple-y, wine-coloured silk/linen knit leftover after making this skirt for a little matching top? except with contrasting sleeves? well ok yeah; that explains the whole project, actually. Probably no need for me to babble on any longer!

Well, maybe just the bare details…

Fabric; silk/linen knit from KnitWit. Black pleather for the sleeves from Spotlight, leftover from some of my shoes and my moto jacket.

Pattern; the epaulette cut and sewn, pattern 4 from “she has a mannish style” by Yuko Takada. I just wanted a loose-ish, boxy kind of a plain Tshirt, fairly featureless. I have a pretty good, tried and true, woven Tshirt pattern that I tend to use, NewLook 6483; but I really wanted something with no bust shaping darts. I really really like the Named Inari tee pattern, which is super popular in the sewing community right now; for a good reason of course! however since I had this book already I thought I’d give the epaulette tee a whirl as a possible Inari tee stand-in. So I traced it up and boom…. done. Super easy. And I really like it! and will no doubt use the same pattern again. 🙂

The only variation I made was to leave off the eponymous epaulettes, haha. Maybe next time…

Finishing nitty gritty: 1) I left off the facings, and just overlocked the raw edge then stitched down a simple seam allowance inside the neckline. Simple, neat, and not bulky at all.

2) Pleather sleeve edges were clean cut using my rotary cutter and left raw.

3) Lower hemline; turned under twice in a deep hem and hand stitched;

So that’s it! Simple easy, unexciting, but then again the most useful things often are. Leftovers and scraps, so basically “free”… yay! I really like the sleeves, and hopefully they do add just some little bit of je nais se quois… and don’t just look like a random add-on because, you know; not enough fabric.

Details:

Top; top 4, the epaulette tee, from She Has a Mannish Style by Yuko Takada. The English translation re-named this book She Wears the Pants, and I’ve previously ranted here on my blog about what a bad, bad, or at least awfully misleading title this is; since the book contains very few patterns for any actual pants. grrr
Skirt; the Jade skirt by Paprika Patterns, same purple knit, details here
Bodysuit (under) the Nettie by Closet Case patterns, black stretch, details here
Gloves; hand knitted by me using a 60’s pattern, charcoal merino, details here
Tights; my own design, black stretch, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, details here

Posted in: knitting, sewing \ Tagged: daily outfit, She Has a Mannish Style, She Wears the Pants, top

blush pink twist top

10/07/2016 9:09 pm \ 23 Comments \ Carolyn

Ok, so; new top. Running down ye checklist…

It’s blush pink. Blush pink is so hot right now! Note; ticks “colour so trendy it hurts” box

It’s twisty. Twisted is ME! Note; ticks “my kinda thing” box

Do I need it? well, it’s still winter and freezing cold and the thing is; I still do not have very many long sleeved Tshirts. If I had a wardrobe gap, and of course I don’t really have a wardrobe gap since I sew for myself… anyway, IF I had a wardrobe gap then long sleeved Tshirts would be the nearest thing to it. Note; ticks “useful and needed thing” box.

Pattern, the twist top from Pattern Magic, the conceptual fabric and pattern manipulation book by Tomoko Nakamichi. This is my fifth version of the twist top, it’s another one of those patterns which I seem to make up a new one every year. Previous versions are here, here, here and here. With the exception of version one, which was my wearable muslin and which I eventually threw out because the fabric was too thin to suit the design really, I wear all of them quite frequently in winter and LOVE them.

Fabric; a ponte, slightly sponge-y and with a crinkle-y, crepe-y textured surface, from Fabulous Fabrics. And, even though blush pink is NOT my colour and I can already hear my mum telling me NO! Carolyn, pink does you NO favours! well blush pink is a big trend for spring and I just kinda wanted it, illogically and randomly. Something trendy and up to the minute. This one may not turn out to be a staple like its big sisters because, you know; Me, plus Pink, equals “oh my god are you ok? you look so tired…” but there’s no doubt it will get at least a few outings this winter and spring. Hey, I can always dye it 🙂

Details:

Top, the twist top, from the Japanese pattern book Pattern Magic, by Tomoko Nakamichi
Jeans; Burda 7863, ivory stretch denim, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shearling jacket; McCalls 5276, details here
Gloves; knitted by me, details here
Socks, knitted by me, details here
Desert boots; made by me, details here

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: daily outfit, Pattern Magic, Sienna, top

a toasty autumn-y dress

29/06/2016 3:54 pm \ 35 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve made another dress. Just right now, I’m fully into dress/skirt wearing, tending to pluck them from the wardrobe with barely scant regard to the several nice pairs of jeans in there. I dunno why, since it’s winter, and you’d think I would want to be wearing jeans, but that’s just the way it is. Of course I reserve the right to become a jeans fanatic again without notice, anytime down the track.
I have a perfectly good reason for a new winter dress… I’m meeting with a bunch of sewing ladies this Friday and you know what that means…. YES! must sew something new to wear. Can’t just wear any old thing, hmmmm? Aaah, the pressure! Sewing meet ups nearly always require new clothing, yes? No worries, I’m totally on to it. Note to self; need lots more sewing meet ups #kidding #kindof

The pattern is Vogue 1316, a favourite which I have made twice before, each time with the addition of deep pockets (above) hidden under that long diagonal front curved band. (see my advice for adding pockets to the design illustrated here). I seem to be in the habit of making a new one every year! but that’s not totally a surprise since I’ve unequivocally loved the design from the very first version. I also seem to be in the habit of always making it in corduroy! which is kinda funny since I actually have plans for several different experiments using this pattern, none of which involve corduroy at all. I should get onto those, tout de suite. Maybe I should realise another one, and there’ll be two new Vogue 1316’s this year? Oh, I think so; yes, I do think so…

This one is all wide-wale cotton corduroy from Spotlight, with an invisible zip from Spotlight, and the dress is fully lined in burgundy polyacetate lining fabric found in my stash, originally from Fabulous Fabrics.

Well, for now I’m just going to enjoy mixing and matching this new one into the current wardrobe repertoire. The warm toasty colours are going to go with lots of things I currently have, I think.

the colours in sunlight

Ok, seeya! soon I’m off to meet sewing ladies! and to look at fabric! and wool! and eat yummy stuff! #it’satoughlife

Wooot

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1316, cotton corduroy, my review of this pattern here
Tights; self-drafted, black stretch stuff, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, details here

LATER EDIT: 3 years later and the dress got a facelift! a rejuvenating dunk into a crimson dye bath… I’d been feeling like that apricot in particular was a bit in-your-face in a colour-clashing sort of a way and a crimson dye-bath has united the colours so they meld in together so much more nicely now. Feels like a new dress!

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: daily outfit, dress, dyeing, vogue 1316

paisley oxfords (shoes)

26/06/2016 11:05 am \ 52 Comments \ Carolyn

hello! I’ve made some new shoes!

I have to admit, I actually had no drama with these ones I was just kinda, yeah, you know, need some new shoes for walking the dog, whatever. I’ll just use this paisley stuff, it’s a bit thick and beefy, quite stiff so should work quite well, plus it’s kinda cool-looking too. Making them all went so smoothly and I didn’t even once feel depressed that they weren’t going to work out at any point at all. A first! So I’m now rather thrilled with them 😉

This is actually a shoe version of a muslin, whatever you would call that… I’m working up to making some shoes using some of the Icelandic fish leather that I bought when we visited there a few years ago and I’m trialling a new pattern. The pattern looks almost identical to the pattern I’ve been using previously, to make my previous pairs of oxford shoes, but since I made that pattern prior to getting my lasts I decided it would be prudent to make a new pattern tailored specifically to the lasts.

So I did it all properly; got out the masking tape, and re-did the whole pattern making process as described here. Got my new pattern and this is the trial run before slicing into my precious leather.

quickie pictorial of the process…

Details above: the top pieces are edged with close-spaced zig-zag stitch in black, and the shoes are fully lined with pale yellow faux suedette from Spotlight. The paisley fabric is from Spotlight too. Foam shoe liners from Coles for added comfort are covered with the pale yellow suedette which gives a co-ordinating, neat and tidy look inside. Heel counters and toe puffs from stretch cotton denim exactly as described in this how-to post here. Stacked heels and soles are made from sheet rubber from Bunnings; glued together using contact gel adhesive, then thoroughly sanded smooth and finished with satin finish varnish. Heels nailed to the soles from the inside exactly the same as pictured for theses shoes here. I hand stitched a small square of black vinyl on the back edge to strengthen that area and hide the seam top.

Craig and Cassie both separately and spontaneously, and without my asking, mentioned that they thought this is my best finish yet. The shoes are quite sturdy and I don’t think I’d even be embarrassed should they be subject to a close inspection. Hehe, I cannot say the same thing for some of my previous efforts!

Plus I think they’re actually rather cute too 🙂

Posted in: sewing, shoes, Uncategorized \ Tagged: own design, shoes

sophie swimsuit

22/06/2016 1:35 pm \ 33 Comments \ Carolyn

I was thrilled when Heather of Closet Case Files asked me to test her fabulous new swimsuit pattern, the Sophie swimsuit, named after the elegant and tres creative Sophie, of Ada Spragg. Thanks so much Heather! I’m pretty chuffed that she continues to even notice an old hag like me.

The Sophie swimsuit is a structured bikini top optionally underwired and paired with high-waisted bottoms, or alternatively the same structured cup top as part of a one piece, boy-legged suit. I think it’s classy, with a modest retro-style chic, and it’s a beautifully designed and drafted pattern.

I’m also enormously impressed, not merely with the Sophie pattern although that in itself is pretty damn fantastic effort because it’s quite a complex pattern… in addition to that Heather is offering a package deal; the pattern, swimsuit kits with fabric, lining and all the bits and bobs you need to put it together, AND an online workshop; all designed to take the legwork out of tracking down all those bits and pieces you need, and to ease newcomers to swimwear-sewing painlessly into the whole process. It’s an absolutely brilliant effort.

Anyway, so this is me, modelling my two new bikinis on the delightfully sunny beaches of south-western Australia… HA! Obviously it’s the middle of winter here, and while it really was a beautifully sunny day and was actually quite pleasant out of the wind in the shelter of the rocks, where I am in the top picture; on the beach itself it was just a tad chilly mind you, just a teeny tiny tad… (read; utterly freezing)

Did I dive right into that invitingly turquoise water for a frolicsome dip? NO!!!! Since I’m the wussiest wuss that ever wussed I just got my pictures super fast and then threw on my jeans and thick woollen cardi again pretty quick! You can see that turbulent water and my crazy hair, it was blowing a freaking gale and the waves were booming and thundering onto the sand like the proverbial white stallions. I do love the beach in any and all weather, including wintery and wild; I love the sparkle of sunlight on the water, the swirling foamy shallows, and the crashing of the surf. Well, perhaps more so when I’m warmly rugged up snug as a bug in a rug, of course. Sienna loves the beach too, but it’s alright for her, in her thick fur coat! hehe, the things we do…

Anyway, on to the SophieS; yup, I’ve made two… both bikinis. It’s been an awfully long time since I’ve worn a bikini, eeek! but I chose view B because I’m still more of a two-piece bathers person than a one-piece-r. There’s the charcoal version at top, and also the pink/black colour blocked version, which was made first. Tester driven feedback called for a change in the shape of the cup so the second, charcoal, one is closer to the final version of the pattern.

Also; I should mention that in the final version of the pattern, the bikini bottoms have a slightly higher rise than mine do here, sitting just at/slightly above the natural waist.

It’s funny; when I finished the pink/black one I almost immediately took a violent dislike to the colours I’d chosen… It seemed a bit… I dunno, young and sporty? or something. Then I made the charcoal version. Which I really adore. When I took out the pink/black one again, to take photos in it, of course, you know the story, it didn’t look quite so hideous after all. I actually took quite a shine to it again. The pink seemed a bit warmer and less Barbie than I’d remembered it. I decided I might even like it better than the charcoal one. I don’t know. Oooh, I’m torn! Either way, I expect both are going to get worn this summer 🙂

Heather has introduced her own sizing chart for the pattern, which I think is a pretty good idea. You know, when you’re making something and you sometimes get too lazy or too cold to disrobe for proper measurements, and go with the same size you always take, or worse; what you think you are. I do find that when faced with an unfamiliar sizing chart, you’re more inclined to get out the tape measure and do a properly slow and careful remeasure, to determine your correct size. Which I did. So saying that, how do I feel the cups fit? well they both fit pretty good. Though I do feel like the cup on my charcoal one, while it fits me; is just a smidge on the scant side for my tastes, if that makes any sense. I believe Heather has upsized them on the final version, which I reckon is a good call. I am small up top but I still kinda like to have lots of coverage there, for personal preference. I might remake the charcoal bikini top, following the new sizing of the final version of the pattern. But maybe not ’til summer!

Fabrics and bits and bobs: the fabrics are from Fabulous Fabrics; who do get some very nice swimwear fabrics in stock during the season. I bought all these fabrics in previous summers, stocking up during sales. Stashing strategically, as you do 😉 Other supplies from my fast dwindling MakeBra basic kits; the underwires, under wiring channeling and the foam for the cups. The swimwear elastic, plastic swimwear hooks for the straps and back closures are from Spotlight.

Posted in: sewing, Uncategorized \ Tagged: bathers, Closet Case files, pattern review, Sienna, Sophie swimsuit

film noir (lingerie)

21/06/2016 10:49 am \ 18 Comments \ Carolyn

Lately the smalls drawer is just looking the epitome of prettiness! I’m totally enamoured with this new set… ivory bobbin lace on a deep blue-y charcoal background, with delicate little black ribbon bows. A little old Hollywood, scraps from the cutting room floor…

source

Patterns; bra is my favourite MakeBra 2610, and I’ve made two pairs of different knickers to match.

Below: cloth habit Watson briefs.

And further below is pictured the the MakeBra free hipster pattern, free to download here from their site. How do the knickers patterns compare? Well, I admit those hipsters do initially look like awfully big granny-knickers lain flat like that, but they’re actually rather cute on! believe it or not! Boy leg style, and medium rise, sitting right at mid-hip. I like them, a lot; even though my wearing preference lies with the more high cut bikini style of brief, like my old fave McCalls 2772, and the Watson. I love the Watson briefs, and they’ve become my knicker of choice, with the proviso of always modifying by eliminating that awful horizontal seam in front of the crotch. Sorry, but I just really do not like that seam! and don’t see the advantage of it. I prefer to cut the front in one piece, splicing the front and crotch pattern pieces together, and sewing the crotch lining in the same method as outlined in my McCalls 2772 pattern, my other go-to knickers pattern.

Actually, I did the exact same thing with the MakeBra hipster briefs, which also has that same horizontal front crotch seam. grrr. Both panty liners are of plain ivory cotton jersey.

Fabrics and other bits and bobs; charcoal stretch bought from Fabulous Fabrics, eons ago. I used this for my Pattern Magic spiral leggings, and still have quite a bit of leftovers. The ivory cotton bobbin lace trim is something that I’ve had for, like, ever. Underwires are recycled from older, also self-made bras that have worn out. I used several different types of elastics, all smaller leftover bits from the stash. Knicker leg elastic on both is a rather nice lacy elastic from Fabulous Fabrics, waist elastic is the plain picot lingerie elastic from Spotlight, bra elastics from variously the black and the ivory MakeBra basic kits. Actually, the entire set was put together entirely from my stash, I didn’t have to buy a single new thing. Awesome, no? #youknowyoumakealotoflingeriewhen

I feel so efficient and so damn scrap-busteringly virtuous. And I happen to have made something needed and useful and rather lovely too, imo. Triple win!

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: lingerie, makeBra 2610, watson

the incredible raspberry woman…

17/06/2016 10:56 am \ 18 Comments \ Carolyn

Haha! I lolled pretty hard at this outfit above, but decided to share anyway. I look like some kind of burgeoning superhero or something yeah? All I need is the cape. “NO CAPES!!” * (Edna Mode, of course)

Fear not, fellow fashion victims, I will not be wearing my new top and tights together like the above example, well maybe for fancy dress. Or, if facing the general, unsuspecting and innocent public, then not without a lot more garments layered over here and there to break up the expanse of raspberry pink anyway, woof.

aaaa, oh dear, calming down now. See here’s the thing… I wanted to make some more coloured tights. I really enjoyed my bright paprika tights, when I had them, even did a 6-different ways post on those things once! I wear black tights a TONNE, like everyone else, but have found it’s absolutely terrific to have a bit o’ variety in the tights department, to have some more colours for layering in my winter wardrobe. I’m embracing a small pink and plum trend in my wardrobe lately, so bought this piece of poly knit during Fabulous Fabrics recent sale with a view to some Intentional Wardrobe Matching and Planning… oooo so organised! Not like me at all 😉

yesterday’s outfit, wearing the tights

I laid down my custom-fit tights pattern and then of course discovered, as you do; that I had enough around the sides that I could probably squeeze a t-shirt out of it as well. Waste not want not!

For the tee; I used my Closet Case patterns Nettie, which I’ve also made tonnes of times I’ve fine tuned the fit over and over so much it’s barely the same pattern anymore. You could call it a vestigial Nettie.

So, the tights are fabulous, and I’m happy, yay! however the top is a so-so thing that I’m a teeny bit meh about. Stretch poly is excellent stuff for tights, but actually pretty horrendous for a top. It’s slightly thick and beefy, doesn’t press at all, and is that ultra slippery slinky stuff, that slips and slides over itself, and the whole two metres of it will slither right off the table in an avalanche of fabric if so much as a small corner starts to slide over the edge. grrr. I made up the tights, easy peasy. When it came to the top, oh god, horror story stuff. I’ve re-done that bottom edge three times… THREE TIMES. The fabric just wouldn’t take anything. Attempt number one; ye olde trusty twin needle. Except, no. It kept skipping stitches something awful.. so I gave up and moved to attempt number two, a small discreet zig-zag. It stretched out and looked disgusting, so I unpicked that with much muttering and growling under my breath. Attempt number three was to turn under twice and hand stitch it, which is usually a failsafe for me. I think this will be ok. If not, I’m going to move onto plan four, which will be a folded band all around the bottom edge, same as I’ve done to lengthen and finish the sleeves.

Essentially a extra-long, folded cuff.

Anyway, it’s done. I kinda regret not using the excess fabric for underwear now. I actually think it would have worked a lot better for lingerie, than as a Tshirt. Well, we live and learn!

Details:

1) above

Top; Pattern Magic twist top in charcoal ponte, details here Skirt; Paprika Patterns Jade skirt, in wine silk/cotton knit, details here Tights; own design, my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots, made by me, details here

2) below

Green top; Closet Case patterns Nettie, in green cotton mix stretch, details and my review of this pattern here
Paprika cardigan; my own modifications on the Closet Case patterns Nettie, details here
Raspberry top; Closet Case patterns Nettie, with sleeve and neckline modifications
Skirt; Vogue 1247, blue corduroy, details here
Tights; black poly, own design, my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, details here

today’s outfit, wearing the Tshirt

Posted in: sewing \ Tagged: Closet Case files, daily outfit, Nettie, own design, tights/leggings, top

some tops, and a collar pattern

13/06/2016 8:47 pm \ 33 Comments \ Carolyn

I’ve been busy making a few tops…

SO! Exhibits A and B; two Nettie tops,both made in a really gorgeous, pale cream knit from Fabulous Fabrics, given to me by Mum. Now, I know I’ve said a gazillion times before that I have SO MANY white tops I should never ever need to make another one, but you see; a full-sleeve-length ivory Tshirt was one of my most worn wardrobe items last year. So, I’m pretty confident that these two boring things are probably going to be two of the most worn things in my winter wardrobe this year too! #ivorytopaddict. I managed to squeeze two tops from out of my piece of fabric, yes! *air fist punch*

I’ve fine tuned my Nettie pattern now for my own figure, but I still have to sorta “start from scratch” with fitting when I’m cutting out a fabric with a different stretch factor than those I’ve used previously with this pattern; and this fabric has quite a low stretch. So to be cautious I upsized quite a bit, cutting approximately and roughly a size 20, and then pinned the sides in to fit me. Also; my fabric was just big enough for the two Netties, but only-just-and-not-quite-perfectly-enough!! you know how it is… you MAKE IT WORK. They both have long sleeves coming right down to my wrists, but I had to cut Nettie B (below) just a little shorter at the hemline, so that I could get the two tops from my one piece of fabric. It sits at my high hip; Nettie A (above) is longer, plainer, with a high crew neck, finished with a grainline-cut band, applied as for this method here.

Along the back edge only, I topstitched the seam allowance down to the top, just inside the seam line. In both cases, the raw edges of sleeve and lower edge are finished with the overlocker, than turned under once and invisibly hand-slipstitched in place.

Nettie B, below, is slightly cropped and has a wide, boatneck collar.

I had some interest for this collar/neckline on instagram, so I’ve drawn up a pattern for it… it’s kinda rough-looking and I do plan to improve the presentation but just wanted to get it up here for now. It does however, work! and so I hope it does prove useful for someone!

neckline:collar

The method is as follows:

This is a collar/neckline designed for a close-fitting Tshirt in stretch knit fabric; the collar is a standup folded collar, and the neckline is wide and shallow. The idea is that you use your tried and true Tshirt pattern just ignoring the given neckline and substituting this neckline/collar for the one in your pattern. I used the Nettie pattern by Closet Case patterns, although any Tshirt pattern would do. Align the pattern pieces so the line of the shoulder seams and the centre front/back lines of this pattern are correctly aligned with the shoulder seams and front and back centre folds of your Tshirt pattern, and cut the neckline accordingly. Seam allowances are 1cm (3/8″), so if the Tshirt pattern you are using has a different seam allowance, align shoulder stitching lines (dotted lines) lines of the shoulder seam, rather than the cutting lines.

Cut the neckband/collar, with the short edges on the grain line. Sew the collar short edges together, right sides together. Fold the resulting “ring”of fabric in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, aligning raw edges… pin to the Tshirt neckline right sides together; distributing the length of the collar evenly around the neckline. Stitch using a 1cm seam allowance, and finish the raw edges with overlocking or zig-zag, as desired.

If you use this pattern, then please do leave me a comment and let me know how it goes. I’m always thrilled to get feedback 🙂

Now for some more tops, hoodies…! Smug self back-patting for unselfish sewing commences right here, since neither of these are for me

Exhibit C; I made a grey hoodie for Sam, to fulfil his birthday request… this is the same self-drafted pattern I’ve used previously for hooodies for each of my boys; and the seventh and eighth time I’ve used the pattern. The best thing about these hoodies in my opinion is the rather nice combined collar/hood, and I’ve previously written a tutorial on how to make this collar, here. Sam wanted grey, and the addition of a bit of red was my idea. I just liked the idea of some little contrast and the red seemed cheerful and fun for winter, and a bit more interesting than if it had just been plain grey. The rather gorgeous warm, grey terry fleece is from Spotlight, and the red is cut from an old Tshirt from my refashioning bag.

aaaaand Exhibit D; a Rayman Hoodie for Sam to wear to ComicCon. The same pattern, and again to fulfil his specific request! I bought some warm purple Tshirt ribbing from Spotlight, simply because it was the perfect colour. The white circle and the red hoodie bit were both cut from two old Tshirts from my refashioning bag.

And that’s it!… well; for now, mwahahahahahahaaaaaaa. *she twirls her cape and dramatically sweeps off to the sewing lair, maniacal laughter radiating in her wake*

Details of all clothing in this post: