Category Archives: Sewing

blue roses *

v1247
* … Tennessee Williams…

Hello! I’ve made a new skirt. Hehe, hot on the heels of writing that I was a wee smidgeon tired of making Vogue 1247 skirts; what should I do? but immediately vogue1247make another one!!  Doh!!  Clearly there’s something terribly wrong with me… #madvogue1247addict

But wait, there is a perfectly good reason…. I’m doing One Week One Pattern again, and of course chose to use this pattern, well I’ve got so many of them!! lotsa skirts and I was kinda hoping that we would get at least ONE day warmish enough for me to wear the one top I have from it… but it’s been so freaking cold; officially the coldest and wettest winter and early spring we’ve have in like thirty years or something like that!  I’m getting to the end of the week, no motivation whatsoever to wear that thin little summery top, and only have 6 pocketed V1247 skirts.  Which are what I consider to be the only true V1247’s, all my ones without the pockets are kinda pretenders to that crown, and even though I love them all too I ruthlessly omitted them all from the line-up.  So what can a girl do? but get cracking and make for herself another true V1247, obviously, so I have a nice 7 to round the week off.  Yeah, I know; a normal person would have worn one of her existing ones, twice; but see I already had the fabric earmarked for the pattern anyway; and just decided go for it; whip it up, make it happen.

side

Fabric; pale teal denim, just very slightly stretchy, with a reverse print of smudgy roses.  This was a remnant given to me by my friend LW, who was cleaning out her stash.  Something funny/miraculous; the remnant was kinda oddly and awkwardly shaped, yet it was absolutely perfect for the pattern pieces! like it was cut just perfectly to fit them all on with the smallest of scraps leftover.  I freakingLOVE when this happens! it’s like the planets aligned for a pattern/fabric match made in heaven  🙂  Even if I was feeling a bit meh about V1247 to start with, when I laid out the pattern pieces and saw how perfect it was it totally galvanised me into excited pattern-love all over again.  I managed to cut my skirt about 10cm longer than the pattern, and I cut the pocket linings and waistband facing from a small piece of nani Iro quilting cotton, from the little bundle of pieces that Mum gave to me for my birthday, for my rag-doll Sally.  I used it for her tote bag.

waistband-facing

obligatory “waitress” pocket pic

pocketsaaaaaand, my week of exclusively wearing Vogue 1247 skirts, in a nutshell…!

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Back very soon, with something that is NOT Vogue 1247… I promise!!

Details:

Skirt; Vogue 1247, lengthened by about 10cm, teal denim
Top; Nettie, by closet case patterns with my own collar variation, ivory knit; details here
Cardigan; knitted by me, Audrey in Unst, wool bought in Paris as a souvenir, details here
Tights, my own pattern, black stretch, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom fit tights pattern is here
Socks (not seen); hand knit by me, details here
Boots; made by me, details here

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sage skirt, sage skirt, ivory top, orange hand warmers


Hello!  I’ve got a small handful of new stuff to show off present … four things to be precise!

DSC_0006Firstly, two sage green/pale coffee, checked tweed skirts.  I inherited this beautiful quality piece of wool tweed from my grandmother’s stash after she passed away.  Although I earmarked it straight away as two skirts for Cassie and myself I just hadn’t got around to it and have sat on it all this time.  It was one of those fabrics I couldn’t bring myself to cut into… you know, inherited from Granny, plus exceptionally good quality, equals inevitable thoughts of sewing tragedy followed by eternal self-damnation…. but I’m making myself get over that nonsense nowadays.  Make it!  Enjoy it!  Live dangerously!  So, finally…  it helps too that I think Cassie has now grown into fabric of this calibre  😉 not that she didn’t deserve high quality fabrics before, but you know what I mean!  it’s very much a grown-up fabric and makes a very smart little work skirt for her now that she has a serious and professional career. The fabric really is beautiful stuff… fine and evenly woven, and there are flecks of all sorts of colours in with the sage green/coffee check… blue, red and gold, caramel brown, forest green, and a hint of purple and black.  It has no identifier on it but it wouldn’t surprise me if it was a fully English tweed.  My grandmother was very much into that sort of thing  🙂
Also, this is possibly the first time that my fabulously neutral garage wall has failed me in showing up a garment nicely!!  it blends in way too much here!  Maybe the gorgeous fabric shows up better in Cassie’s picture, below.  Here, she is wearing her skirt with this caramel coloured merino tee that I made for her previously.

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Both skirts are pretty much identical, apart from the size, of course!!  Both made using Vogue 8363; the waistbands and pocket linings are cut from cotton calico, and the lining is a beige polyacetate.  Ivory/beige invisible zips in both skirts, closure by a wide hook and eye, and I cut the linings big and eased the extra fullness into the waistband with big pleats, for some wearing ease.  As always, I like to hand-stitch the waistband facings and lining down on the inside, much neater I think and the fabric deserved a really nice finish  🙂

skirt innards

 

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Next up, a little top for Cassie!  we bought this ivory/grey cotton French terry while we were in Japan recently… and can I just say… OmigawdthisfabricisthemostGORGEOUSstuff and I would sob with pitiful happiness if only I knew I could go back to Japan again… *sigh*  When Caspatternmagic3sie moved out of home she left this fabric behind and I almost started to factor it into my own plans mwahahahahaha… but of course she hadn’t forgotten it, o no!  The reason she had deviously left it behind was so that I could make something for her with it!  HA!  She chose the wings top from Pattern Magic 3, modified so as to have the wings gone; I’ve made this for myself once previously too, and I like Cassie’s new one so much I’m now wondering why I threw mine away!  I left the lower edge raw so it curls up nicely, and the sleeve edges and neckline I overlocked the raw edge, turned it under once and did a nice discreet little zig-zag to finish it.  It looks quite nice, I think.

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Item number four, and actually this is nothing to write home about really… I refashioned the fabric from an old woollen jumper of Craig’s into cosy new hand warmers for me.  I have my nice sheen green knitted hand warmers, that I’ve been wearing all winter, but! It’s still cold, I’m bored to tears with all my winter clothes and I just really fancied a new colour.  And the jumper was such a divinely rich tangerine-y colour and going begging because it had developed a large moth hole in the front.  Also, it had felted and shrunk a little bit when some careless person had accidentally tossed it in with too hot of a wash, tut tut *whistles innocently* and I have NO IDEA who that could have been, hum de hum!!!  Anyway!!  I cut open the whole jumper, assessed for holes, and cut out two rectangles, carefully avoiding said holes and a few stains.  I kept the ribbing intact for the bottom edge, and cut holes for my thumbs, overstitched those all nice and secure, and sewed the long side up.  I put them so the seams are on the outside because I liked the bobbly look of them, then sewed a little casing in the top edge and inserted a ring of elastic so they stay up my arm.  Bam! and bob’s your uncle.  New hand warmers, and making use of an old thing that would have otherwise been tossed out.  WIN!

Details:

Item 1)

Top; Burdastyle 04/2014-111, white bobbly stuff, details here
Skirt; Vogue 8363, sage green/coffee check wool tweed
Tights; my own pattern, black stretch stuff, details here and my tute for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, my own design, details here

item 2)

Top; drafted by me, caramel coloured merino wool, details here
Skirt; Vogue 8363, sage green/coffee check wool tweed

item 3)

Top; the wings top from Pattern Magic 3, ivory French terry cotton knit

item 4)

Handwarmers: made from an old jumper
Tshirt; self-drafted, dyed black cotton jersey, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, dyed purple denim, details and my review of this pattern here
Cardigan; Miette knitted by me, details here
Cowl; knitted by me to my own design, details and my original pattern is here
Tights; my own pattern, black stretch stuff, details here and my tute for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, my own design, details here

orange hand warmers

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Marimekko dress

marimekkowhat’s with the ballet pose? I have no idea.  Anyway… I have a Marimekko dress.  *pinches self*  *sits in reverent silence for a minute*

marimekko fabric

See, to have a Marimekko dress is something I’ve kinda lusted after for a long long time…  I grew up in a Scandinavian style house decorated in modern Scandinavian decor by my everything-Scandinavian-loving parents.  White walls, those white Danish “UFO” light fittings; lots of pared-back wood and leather, with simple lines, naif flowers sprouting upon our white bathroom tiles and so I’ve been trained to have an affinity for it from a very early age …  When we went to Scandinavia I was quite disappointed to not find any Marimekko fabric during our time there, although to be honest it was a gamble since we didn’t actually manage to get to Finland, the home of Marimekko.   All through Sweden, Denmark, Norway and Iceland I harboured vain hopes and searched and searched, obviously coming up empty handed, sob.  And I’ve never ever seen any for sale here in Perth; so it’s proven to be pretty elusive stuff!   But no more!  you CAN get Marimekko fabric in Australia!  🙂

marimekkoside

Fabric; Marimekko Pieni Unikko 2 in blue/yellow,  and is actually from an Australian fabric store, Yulki’s Home Decor in Hobart, Tasmania, believe it or not!  I’m a wee bit sad the brick-and-mortar store is not next door to me! but only a wee bit because the store does (obviously) have online sales.  Thank goodness for that!    It’s a little price-y but well worth it because it really is absolutely beautiful quality, thick and strong, happily not too thick for clothing, and the colours and prints are of course instantly recognisable, modern day classics, so vibrant and optimistic and happy.  There’s a pretty good reason why they are perennially popular and still in production after fifty years… everyone loves a happy vibrant print, and I’m pretty sure I will not be able to resist buying more either *blush*.   The currently available range can be viewed here.  I’m rather excited to see it comes in oilcloth too… mmmmm, raincoat? *plotting plotting*

marimekko selvedgeI’ve kept the selvedge from off the fabric, and have sewn these inside one of the pockets! just because I love information like this… namely: this design is by prominent Finnish designer Maija Isola, and was created in 1964!  out by a year but definitely still of my era, haha.  “Pieni unikko” translates literally to “little poppy”  I’m not sure what KI 2009 means yet, but I’m investigating….  Also, how cool is it that the laundering info is printed on the selvedge?! so classy and very considerate really, it’s been along long time since I’ve seen such consideration in a fabric.  That information’s the kind of thing I usually forget the very minute I swan out of the shop with my new fabric tucked under my wing.

marimekko label

I also sewed this: “The Label”  inside my dress… half of me wanted to sew it on the outside, haha! but of course Marimekko is instantly recognisable so there’s probably no need.

hehe, I’ve just asked my husband, and he had no idea! so maybe I should amend that, ahem… instantly recognisable to design and fabric afficianadoes, then!

burda 04:2014dress 108,04:2014

Pattern; I used dress 108, the cover dress from the Burda 04/2014 issue, also known as the Wings Dress.  It’s an interesting design; looks simple but has quite a lot of seaming which I chose to highlight with inset strips of acid-yellow cotton voile, bought from Calico House.  My method for framing pieces with contrasting inset strips like this is here…  and my method for edging those pocket openings as part of the side seam inset strip is here…  I also edged the neckline, armholes and the lower hem and edges of the overskirt in yellow cotton as well.  The dress closes with a long navy blue invisible zip in the centre back.  I agonised a bit over the colour to use here, the contrasts in the colours of the print are all pretty extreme! yellow? blue? black? white?  aaagh, so hard.  The navy blue turned out not too bad, I reckon.

 

pocket

The bodice has princess seams and tiny additional bust darts in the centre front piece that I believe are called a Dior dart.  This is the very first time I’ve come across one of these! it just adds a little more nuance to the “shape” in the bodice.    Although there is all that shaping by seaming, the design is actually little boxy, believe it or not.  I shaped mine a bit more throughout those seaming lines, bringing it in at the waist more and giving a bit more width at my hips.  The princess seams in the bodice visually connect to the gore lines in the skirt, which itself has an interesting overskirt feature with the pockets in it.  I think it looks quite interesting and pretty and lends the whole dress a slightly sporty “wraparound” feel to it, a bit like a sports or tennis dress.

marimekko bodice

I finished the raw pocket edges inside the front overlays all with HongKong seaming, because they have a tendency to flap open and show!  So, I had to make sure the insides here look as lovely as possible.  Binding the seams visually ties the inside with the inset strips on the outside;  all those yellow edges everywhere just keeps it all nicely harmonious.  Well, I reckon it does…

marimekko skirtThe loose front pieces also allows you to have these big loose comfortable pockets that you can shove your hands in, while still maintaing quite a slimline dress overall.  As a result, the pattern uses very little fabric.  I managed to squeeze my pattern pieces out of 1.5m, which is not too bad, not too bad at all, I think *preens oneself on an exceptionally economic layout*  I had the merest of scraps left after cutting out my pieces, scraps, I tell you!  The pattern has you line the dress, and after a bit of um-ing and aah-ing, I decided to not.  Reason? summers here are very hot and I think the breeziness of this lovely cotton fabric is going to be perfect just as it is.

So that’s it! I love it paired up like here with my new white shoes.  A little bit sporty, a little bit flower child, a LOT summer;  my little bit of Marimekko loveliness is just awaiting to dazzle with ultra mod 60’s chic.  Right on.  🙂

Details:

Dress; Burdastyle 108;04/2014 in Marimekko cotton with cotton voile contrast
Shoes; my own design and made by me, details here

Pictured below on Cable Beach, Broome…   along with my hat and my new sandals

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side seam with inset strip and bound-edge inseam pocket; a tutorial

pocket

btw this fabric here is fulfilling a long held dream of mine…. a Marimekko dress!!  print is Pieni Unikko 2, 100% cotton, available here… yes, you can get Marimekko fabric in Australia!  More details on the dress in a future post to come…  🙂

Also, sorry for the unwieldy title but it’s the most accurate way of describing this technique, I reckon…

Anyway, recently I was putting in some inseam side pockets but I wanted to have a contrasting coloured strip set into the seam and carrying on seamlessly to incorporate a neatly bound edge to the pocket opening also…  how to do it? well here is my method…

This is illustrated for a dress but works equally well in a skirt, trousers or shorts as well, obviously.  pocket1

You have your dress (or skirt/trouser/shorts) front and back, the under pocket piece cut from the fashion fabric and a pocket liner piece cut from either lining fabric or the fashion fabric, and 1 1/2″ (4cm) bias cut fabric in a contrasting colour for the inset strip/pocket edging.  btw the measurements given here are for a garment cut with 1/2″ (1.2cm) seam allowances and will resulting in a 1/4″(6mm) wide contrasting strip, but the measurements can be varied accordingly for different dimensions as desired.

Stitch the bias strip to the skirt front, using a 6/8″ (2cm) seam allowance.  Press the strip to the side edge.

pocket2
From the underside, make two 1/2″ (1.3cm) snips (seam allowance width) through all layers at the top and bottom opening edge of the pocket.  Take care to not snip all the way to the previous stitching, but ONLY  the width of the seam allowance.

pocket3

Stitch the lining pocket piece to the bias strip in a narrow 1/4″(6mm) seam allowance.

pocket5Press the pocket lining out, then turn it under the front piece and press, forming the 1/4″ (6mm) wide bound edge of the pocket.

pocket6pocket7

Use a matching thread and stitch in the ditch along the joining seam from the right side through all layers, securing the pocket lining to the front.

pocket8

Underneath, pin the pocket piece to the pocket lining piece around all inner edges, stitch,  Finish the edge as desired… I chose to finish the edges in a HongKong seam using the same yellow voile.

pocket9 pocket10from the right side (with some irrelevant (white) basting along the side edge… not really necessary for this method)

pocket10a

Pin the back piece to the front piece at the side seams, marking the pocket opening points exactly with a pin.  Have the front piece uppermost, so you can use the previous, bias attachment seam as a guide while stitching; this is so you can ensure your contrasting bias strip comes out as a nice perfectly even width all the way down the side seam.  Stitch side seams in a 1/2″ (1.3mm) seam, passing exactly through those pin-marked points.  Reinforce the pocket opening edges with a few backward and forward passes with the machine at these points. Take great care to keep the pocket opening edge free between the two layers.

pocket11

And done!  When you turn it out, you will have a nice side-edge strip, which seamlessly goes on to edge your side inseam pocket.  Nice, yes?

As always, if you find this a useful and/or helpful tutorial, please do leave a comment saying so…  🙂

pocket12

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jean genie

jean genieI’ve made a new dress using a bunch of my kids’ old jeans that I have vogue1316been saving for this very purpose…  and please note; yes, I am wearing denim shoes that I also made from old jeans, hehehe.  Just adding to the overall,terribly cohesive, jeans, jeans, jeans and yet more jeans look that I’ve got going on here.   Jeans from head to toe!! even though I’m not actually wearing any jeans, haha.  Long term readers may remember these shoes from when I made them a couple of years ago…  I’ve worn them a lot actually.  They seem to go with everything!
The Refashioners’ challenge this year was to make a garment using old jeans … which is fabulous timing for me! one of my imagined versions for this pattern has always been a jeans refashion and so the challenge just roused me from merely daydreaming about it and into action.  I’m a happy little refashioner from way back.. anyone remember Wardrobe Refashion? aaaah, I was a pretty active participant and was a little sad when it all wound down.  But still keeping up with that lifelong pledge!

Pattern; Vogue 1316.  this is the fourth version of the pattern I have made and actually the second I’ve made from old jeans, come to think of it!  My first version was made using four pairs of different coloured corduroy jeans.  See also my second, blue version, and my third, autumn version.  I still have several more plans for this pattern… but maybe I should wait before bringing any more to fruition; I now have three pairs currently rotating in my wardrobe, and a fourth might be just stretching credibility… just a bit!  It’s quite an eye-catching and distinctive design, over all.  This new one is pretty summer-y though, and I probably won’t be wearing it until things warm up around here a bit.

jeansMaterials;  obviously, all blue denim jeans.  I used three pairs of children’s jeans, one pair of child’s long shorts and one pair of adult jeans.  The adult jeans turned out to be necessary when I realised  that the full-length panels at the back would look pretty terrible if pieced at the waist; it’s a very much piecemeal kind of a design anyway, and to have that nice long smooth length of fabric at the back is just a nice visual anchor in amongst all that busy patchworking, in my opinion.  I decided it would be best to retain it; fortunately I had one pair of Craig’s old jeans in my refashioning bag and could cut the long back pieces from those.

jean genie 3topstitching My vision for this dress has always been to have lots of the existing jeans’ details retained in it, like the pockets with their decorative top-stitching, the coin pockets and belt loops and so forth; HOWEVER when it came down to it I retained very little of all that!  The design was just so…  busy; I ended up removing a lot of the little details I was going to put in.  There’s still plenty of the jeans bits and pieces left in, I reckon just the right amount to keep that definite “jeans flavour” to it.  There are a few original topstitched seams here and there, and the portion of a pocket left on the bodice.  I also added tonnes of new topstitching in terracotta upholstery thread, in fact every seam is topstitched down in some cases doubly so.

jean genie bodicesbaSomething I’ve managed to forget to blog about each time I’ve written about this dress… like all Vogue patterns, for a fitted design it’s a little blouse-y in the boob-al region for my figure; however the princess seamed bodice makes this a very easy fix.  I simply pin and stitch to shave a bit off the inner curve of the central bodice piece (above), and this solves the problem for me.  A very very easy small bust adjustment, and one I usually end up using for pretty much every fitted Vogue bodice with princess-seaming.  I don’t have the same issues with Burda, but always with Vogue.  I guess their “blocks” are a little different.

ventzip

The back vent (above) is topstitched in navy blue thread, rather than the terracotta.  Trust me, it just looked better this way.  I also used an navy blue invisible zip  This was the only new thing I bought for the dress!  The pockets (below) are lined with scraps of pretty floral voile… this was leftover from a dress that Cassie made for herself.  We bought the fabric together in Tokyo during our very first visit there in 2011, when we met Yoshimi and Novita for a fabric shopping day out,  Aaaah, yet more happy memories!

pocket liningOne pair of jeans, the very pale blue pair, was practically threadbare in places, but I still really wanted to have that pale blue as part of the lovely indigo-y mix…  these pieces I reinforced with lightweight iron-on interfacing to the back to stabilise and strengthen these areas (below).  Don’t want my new dress ripping in its first wear now, do I?!

skirt interfacing
For the bottom hem, I kept the original jeans’ hems in every piece (below).  This took a little bit of careful pattern placement, but I’m so happy with how it looks!  Yes, it’s a bit torn and worn in places, but that’s the honest history of the fabrics, right there.  The dress is a refashion, and proud of it.  The other little bit of history that I love about it is that you can just make out faint pink stains on one of the denims… this was a pair of jeans that Tim wore while painting once, and those paint stains never did come out despite many washes!  They are still there, and I LOVE them.  Oh, I’m a sentimental old thing, and happily so, too  🙂

hem

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1316, made from old jeans, see my original review of this pattern here
Shoes; made by me from old jeans and hand-carved wooden bases, details here

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unselfish sewing

paisley leather1Hello! just a few quick items for today… I’ve actually been sewing a few things for other people!   Scary stuff, huh.  I mean, it’s one thing that I can see all my own flaws in things I make for myself, and on a daily basis! but that’s kinda the rough with the smooth, you accept that because it’s all your own doing, all your own fault and you can tell yourself you’re “learning” and going to do better next time haha…. but to subject another person to those flaws … well that’s really exposing yourself.  ok, you know what I mean…

Anyway, you just do it; and only partly because you have more than enough clothes for yourself yet still have the desire to MAKE.  Ok, then, mostly because of that  😉

Fortunately, everyone in my life is kind and sweet and appreciative, and usually only murmur kind, sweet and appreciative things about the clothing I force bestow upon them.  I’m so lucky to have such polite people in my life!

paisley leather
Anyway, item number one above; a skirt for Cassie.  Pattern is Butterick 5488, a pattern she’s used for herself several times already.  It’s a great little pattern, with nine variations.  Yep, NINE. butterick5488 Sure, they’re all near identical, but still.  What’s not to love about that.

Fabric; the small portion of leftover paisley jacquard leftover from my paisley shoes, here; I only had a teeny amount left, so I paired it with some rather nice, black pleather that has a realistically distressed texture and a nice dull sheen to it.  Also an exposed jeans zip, this is also a leftover of sorts, when buying the zips for my recent khaki army jacket I bought one too many.  So ta da! and it feels good for it to find a home so quickly and harmoniously blending in so nicely with the deluxe and somewhat opulent feel of the fabrics together.  I love I love how it all comes together in this skirt!  heavy-duty brass, the richness of paisley, the edginess of leather.
paisley leaether3This is the first time I’ve put an exposed zip in a skirt with lining, and wasn’t totally sure how to do it; I put the zip in similarly to how you’d do a welt pocket, and then hand-stitched the lining to the zip tape on the inside.  I cut the bottom edge of the pleather clean and straight with my rotary cutter and left it unhemmed; and hemmed the paisley portions in a deep 4cm hem by hand.  The skirt is fully lined with raspberry polyacetate, itself a leftover from my toasty autumn dress here.  So this skirt is nearly all from scraps and leftovers! yay!!

When lining a skirt that doesn’t come with lining pattern pieces, I usually use the shell pattern pieces; splicing them together and cutting them a bit oversized for some ease in there.  I omit stitching darts, instead folding the excess in a pleat as pictured here.  Also nearly always zooming the side seams up on the machine at a million miles an hour like a rabid bat out of hell… whoops, of course I meant to say; slowly and sedately and ever so carefully  #NOT *blush*paisley leather4kellyshoodiekwiksew3667Item number two; a hoodie for my son’s girlfriend.  I had made this striped hoodie for Tim last Christmas; and intended for Kelly’s hoodie to sorta match his; there were some leftovers and I bought some co-ordinating striped fabric to go with the small amount I had leftover from his hoodie.

I was very pleased with how it turned out, and almost wanted to keep it! hehe just kidding… of course I made it for her, she looks great in the navy blue, and the stripes; and I think it suits her beautifully.   Also, don’t they look really nice together?

awwwwww

matching jumpers

Pattern is KwikSew 3667. This really is a lovely pattern; I’ve used the hood pattern multiple times to add a hood to things that didn’t have a hood, and wanted one.  And I also had my own once upon a time; my Hoodie McCloud that I really loved wearing for a long time.   Cassie borrowed it once and… yeah, so pretty much it’s been hers ever since.  You know, when your daughter wears something of yours, and of course she looks a thousand times better in it than you?  So of course you just give it to her…  *sigh*  I really should make myself a replacement…

kellyshoodie1

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khaki Tosti jacket

sidewaffle tostiHello!
For ages I’ve wanted to replace my old beloved khaki ripstop army-style jacket… I LOVED that thing and even did a 6 different ways post on it once.  At some point I decided I’d made the sleeves just a smidgeon too short so with some sadness passed it on to Cassie.  Who loves it equally, and wears it often… and I found myself pining for it all over again whenever I saw her wearing it!

Finally I’ve got around to making another one for ME!

tosti frontI just adore jackets with tonnes of hardware and detailing, like zips and lots of different bits and bobs and interesting pockets.  So set about planning for this one to be chockablock with loads of that sort of thing.  I considered using the same Burda pattern I used for the previous one, but I had to make lots of additions/adjustments to that in order to make it the complex, feature-laden army-style jacket that I wanted, which is fine! but since making that one, lots of great patterns have popped up with all those features already incorporated into the pattern.  Eventually I settled upon the Tosti utility coat pattern by Yuki of Waffle Patterns, it had the detachable hood, the belt, tabs, the front zip placket for a separating zip, multitudes of pockets, in fact: everything I wanted.  I was really attracted to the variety of different pockets it had and was pretty determined to use each and every one of them in my jacket.  There are six different types of pockets!   an inner breast pocket, a sleeve pocket, two options for breast pockets and two options for hip pockets, and I used ’em all.  Cassie thought I was loopy putting four different pockets on the front of the jacket, but I stubbornly ploughed ahead because I love that mishmash look…   I know you’re not supposed to do ALL of them with the pattern, but I just wanted it!

Beware; pocket overload approaching…

 

Breast pockets:(L) inner welt pocket with flap; and (R) inner pocket with exposed zip closure

tosti pocketAtosti pocketB

Hip pockets; (L) bellows pocket with patch flap; and (R) patch pocket with exposed zip closure

tosti pocketC tosti pocketD

(left) patched sleeve pocket with exposed zip closure; and (right) inner breast pocket with double welt

tostipocketE tostipocketF

The fabrics: the khaki cotton ripstop was from some online fabric store in the US; and I can’t remember its name, sorry!  My neighbour Meggipeg and I went in together with a joint order.  The fabric was priced reasonably, but postage was horrendously and shockingly expensive… the trap!!… but at least I got the ripstop so that’s ok.  One of the saddest things ever is when Spotlight ceased stocking this stuff  *sob*

The plaid cotton flannelette I used for lining and all zips were from Spotlight, and I had to visit two stores to find them all! and the copper press studs were from both KnitWit and Spotlight  Yes, I had to visit a coupla stores to get enough of those too!  The belt buckle was harvested from an old belt.  Originally, I had decided I would put thin black fleece interlining in my jacket for some warmth, but once I had the lining made up I realised I wouldn’t need it.  The jacket is pretty warm enough already, and truthfully, if it was any warmer it actually wouldn’t be all that useful in our climate.

front tosti

back tostiThere is tonnes of topstitching all over, so satisfied that part of me that adores precision sewing.  I’m that weirdo that LOVES topstitching! and am pretty much totally and blissfully happy when I’m hunched over the machine, chugging along; churning out lines upon lines of precise, neatly and evenly spaced, stitching.  The wonderful thing about this ripstop is that the little squares in the weave of the fabric make precision stitching and lining up pieces to be perfectly square very very easy.

(L) belt loop; (R) shoulder tab.  Press studs from kits bought in KnitWit and Spotlight

tosti belt loop shoulder tabs

(L) collar with press studs for hood, (R) wrist tabs

tosti collar wrist tabs

No one  will ever see or notice this but me, but the plaid lining matches up all the way around #patternmatchingfreak

The lining appears a bit “blowsy” in this picture, due extra ease in the lining… many of the lining/shell seams have you make folds/pleats in the lining when stitching the lining to the shell, to account for the extra length.

lining

I’d cut a plaid lining for the hood too but decided upon a self-lined hood.  Less jarring in appearance when the hood is worn down.  Which, let’s face it, it most usually is!

Opening zip, and placket with press studs; (below) self-lined hood

tosti zip plackethood1

hood

I also made the belt, using a buckle harvested from off an old belt of Tim’s, and eyelets from a kit from Spotlight

belt

I posted lots of these progress pictures on instagram also, so I’m sorry for the doubling up.  But; you know instagram; it’s fabulous and I love it, but stuff gets “lost” in no time there since it’s not that easy going back to see things you posted a year ago…so I’m reproducing all those pictures here.  I know a lot of us seamsters have migrated pretty solidly to instagram now; in fact it seems fewer and fewer people are reading blogs and it could be that blogging like this is dead or at least heading towards comatose.  I mean, let’s be honest, how many people actually click over when you see the words “on the blog now, link in profile”?   Precious few… and that’s just the way of things, times change, people now are of the moment and often are only interested in one quick visual; and that’s all absolutely fine and ok and completely understandable.   I think though that I will still keep on with writing this blog anyway, just for my own benefit.  I want to keep going for the same reasons I started it; as a record of all my sewing projects, because I can search for and look up older things up here, and you can’t really do that over on instagram all that easily.

Hmmm, well that was a bit of a diversion there, sorry!  I’m writing a review of this pattern, but no point in reading it really.  It’s pretty glowing, because I absolutely LOVE this pattern; I thoroughly enjoyed making my jacket, and am totally enamoured of the final product.  Fair dinkum; I’m going to wear this to rags.

back1

Fun fact; after a week of FREEZING cold weather.. today, the day after I finished this jacket and wanted to wear it for the first time; of course today was then an unseasonably warm day.  Naturally!!  But you know what? I wore it anyway, mwahahaha.  Unco-operative weather! pfffft!  see what I care!  I wore it, and I roasted.  And I loved every minute of it!!

Details:

Jacket; the Tosti utility jacket by Waffle patterns, khaki cotton ripstop with plaid, brushed cotton lining
striped Tshirt; self drafted, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1247, cotton corduroy, originally yellow and dyed brown, details here
Tights, self-drafted, black stretch, details here
Shoes; made by me, details here

ootd

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something 80’s

80snightSo; like, we were going to this 80’s themed party, and, like, EVERYONE in this particular group always dresses up to the max!  Not dressing the part would be heinous!  and of course I had to be fully self-made, ‘cos of my challenge.  Also, like, I had to be warm.  It’s like the middle of flipping’ winter!  Like, duh!

So …  remember…. ? Flashdance…?  Fame…?  Yep, a baggy-rific parade of dancercise warmup gear, headbands, leg warmers  *shudders*  I remember it well,  oh how I remember it oh too TOO well.

Fortunately, or maybe not so fortunately?  I had nearly all the components, already.  Dear god.  My red jumper is the real 80’s deal, that I knitted for my husband, way back then, and blogged here.  I purloined it from our old, knitted stash.  Slipping in here…. I now never ever throw away hand-knits.  I’m embarrassed to say that I have actually thrown away nearly everything I knitted in my childhood and teens, and how I regret it.  Some of that stuff was actually great.  Like, I’m so sure!!

I am also wearing my black Carolyn pyjama shorts, my raspberry tights, my paprika bodysuit, my neon green arm warmers – gotta have some fluoro in there, somewhere!, and my little soft, black oxford shoes, that pass for dance shoes, in a pinch.  I certainly boogied and grape-vined my little 80’s-lovin’ heart out in them last night and they stood up to the challenge beautifully, thank goodness.  I’m always inordinately pleased when my handmade shoes prove themselves!  You little beauteeeeeehs!

legwarmers legwarmers1

I’m also wearing pseudo leg warmers and a purple headband, made from some old Tshirts languishing in my refashioning bag.  For the leg warmers, I kept the old hem in place, and used this as the casing for some elastic, to hold them up on my legs.  Neat, huh? No need to sew a new casing!

And of course, the Ponytail, and the Rayban Wayfarers.  Oh yeah.  Mandatory stuff.  Oh yeah.  And, naturally, I wore my sunglasses at night.

Everyone’s costumes were so much fun: there was a Warwick Capper; laugh!! and John McEnroe… actually TONNES of mullets in general…  a David Lee Roth, a Lene Lovich, a Frankie goes to Hollywood dude, a Pretty Woman, a few girls dressed similarly to me, lots of Valley Girls.  My husband was a pastel-perfect Miami Vice style dude.   And the music was a fun-filled, boppy trip down memory lane.  A totally righteous time was had!

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