Tag Archives: Patchwork

a patchwork dress

Oh my gosh, I can’t believe I haven’t blogged this dress yet… this post (sans any text at all, ahem) has been in my drafts for over a year now!  I feel so neglectful of this thing… it spite of the fact that it’s something I’m very proud of!

Quite a few years ago now, I bought a whole lot of lovely linens from Tessuti Fabrics in Melbourne, while over there on a visit with Mum and Cassie.  Aren’t the colours gorgeous?!

I always planned a patchwork thing pretty much exactly like it finally turned out… !  So lucky!

 

I cut a whole bunch of squares; the ones closest to the top of the dress are quarter the size of the squares in the middle, which themselves are a quarter the size of the biggest squares around the hemline.  Piecing them so as to have the colours arranged randomly was a minor but very enjoyable challenge.

Early on I posted the above picture to instagram, to which someone (kindly and without ill-intent) commented that the shaping could all be done in the seams keeping up the appearance of perfect squares everywhere.  And I knew straight away that that was a borderline impossible task.  I’m perfectly aware that this commenter meant really well but the comment still somehow left me totally paralysed with the weight of expectation.  I know, it’s silly; but I guess it’s my fault for sharing progress shots of things I’m making.  Somehow doing so seems to frequently lead to a similar outcome.

Anyway, as a result; the project spent the next few months in limbo.  I did finally pick it up, left it again, picked it up again, and finally managed to limp through to the finish line, all the time painfully aware that I had failed to achieve aforementioned shaping while keeping the squares perfectly square.  I shouldn’t have felt like a failure, but you know.  Such a feeling can’t be helped sometimes…

 

But I am very happy in the end, and even I wore it to Frocktails one year too.  It was actually a freezing cold night and it had to be covered up with a warm woolly cardigan most of the night, more’s the pity!

The halter neck design with rather complex, uber swishy skirt is my own, of course; custom fit to my dummy Bessie.  It even has pockets, which were actually kind of a nightmare in the patchworked side seams.  It also has a side zip, so as to disturb the patchwork as little as possible.  The above picture is the initial, unhemmed version, which looks kind of cool but was unfortunately impossible to walk in from being too too long.   The final look is a good compromise between a good length, and being able to walk without tripping.  A nice balance!

Final take; I am so so proud of this dress, so am kinda bewildered at my complete failure to blog it before now.  Well, at least I finally got this, final step finished too.  It’s been a fun dress to wear , so beautifully swishy and comfy, and it never fails to garner lots of attention and compliments.  So in conclusion; I cannot be happier with it!

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fractal

I’ve made a weird patched dress using twelve old Tshirts of my boys’.  I know it’s bizarre and crazy and probably a little bit ugly but I totally love it!
I’m constantly pinning patchwork-y and randomly asymmetric things.  I’m actually very inspired by and crave to wear stuff like this A LOT in reality, even though I also make and wear a lot of plain things.  I think I have a very non-cohesive brain, wardrobe-wise.  It plods along all plain and quiet and unobtrusive for a while, “fitting in” with the norm *yawn* and then will suddenly have the urge to zoom off into arty, thrown-together-land.  Making something kinda weird and wild like this makes me feel quite exhilarated; sorta free and unconstrained and satisfied and happy.  I don’t think I act upon this often enough.  Clearly, I need a little more such craziness in my life!
Anyway, the new dress.  I was inspired by this dress credited to Jurgen Lehl.    
I used one of my oldies, Vogue 7795 with some adjustments; namely with the front bodice tucks and back bodice darts removed and the waterfall skirt drape transformed into an asymmetric box pleat.  Also I made the back bodice and back skirt as one piece each, with the CB seam removed from both.  In my memory this is a very drop waisted design, so I also shortened the bodice pieces by about 4cm.

I’ve made this pattern up a couple of times before; both many years ago, my first version in white swiss dotted voile is pictured here looking tres touristy with a gelato and at the Fontana di Trevi in Rome, and my second version was pink, although I can’t find any pictures of that one.

When you’re making a large scale, randomly patchworked design like this one, I’ve found it’s a good idea to draw out the adjusted pieces full scale and lay them out as a guide for the patchworking.  That way, you can see how the design is looking on the scale of the dress as the piecing progresses.

I selected twelve Tshirts, all old, some very old, cast-offs from my boys.  This is one of the things I love the most about it actually, in that I am so familiar with each and every one of these shirts, having watched my boys run around playing in them a zillion times, also of course I’ve washed them all, hung them on the line, folded them and tucked them away into their dressers about a zillion times each also.  
A sentimental dress then, in a way  🙂

There’s also one “new” fabric, harvested from a recent Absolute Fail… *sad face* IG’ed here.  
I cut all the fabric into varied width strips and then just got creative.  

In a super random design like this one it’s good to install some order to the thing somewhere, and in this case I stuck to the same order in the colour arrangement.   I finished the neckline and armscyes as simply as possible with strips of black Tshirt, stitched on right sides together, then folded to the inside and topstitched.

So, my dress is fulfilling several intentions; firstly to satisfy that creative urge, and my desire for a bit more crazy in my life as outlined above.  Tick!
Secondly, I made it as a kind of a muslin for another project that I’m planning right now.  Then I had the patching idea, was distracted and got  a bit carried away.  I may or may not go ahead with that original plan, but I’m very happy with this particular result! I’m pleased to say  🙂

And lastly, I recently received an email from Charlotte regarding the sew solidarity challenge run by the charity TRAID.  Essentially it’s this: to commemorate the Rana Plaza garment factory collapse you select an old, not new! mass-produced garment, possibly from Bangladesh although I didn’t restrict my options country-of-origin-wise, re-fashion it fit for a new life and then you’re supposed to wear it on 24th April.  Last year I joined in the same-aimed Fashion Revolution movement by wearing my self-made clothes inside out.  Theoretically this year I could do either of these commemorative activities… option 1, wear this dress as per the Sew Solidarity challenge; option 2, like last year wear something else I’ve made inside out as per the Fashion revolution challenge; OR option 3, combine the two challenges and wear this dress inside out.  The only problem with option 3 is that I’m pretty sure my insides might be kinda too ugly for me to get away with this in my very conservative suburb!  The insides are a gridlock of overlocked seams, and because I used some fabric pieces wrong side out, the prints are then on the inside of the dress; so it’s a bit of an unholy mess in there.  But I guess the option is there, should I choose to look irredeemably ridiculous.

Details:
Dress; modified Vogue 7795, made from old Tshirts
Shoes; Zomp, from Zomp shoe boutique

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patchwork Sandpoint top

I’ve made a new top.  Well, kinda new from old actually, since it’s made from 4 old Tshirts cut up and patched together.  My refashioning bag yielded; a light purply-brown from Craig, two pinks from Tim, and a chocolate-y one which is one of my old self-made Tshirts.  They were all old and a tad tatty here and there but still had some good bits left in them.  And I liked these yummy Cherry Ripe colours together.   mm-mmmmm  🙂

The pattern is the Sandpoint top designed by Helena of GreyDay patterns.  Mel of the curious kiwi contacted me to ask me to make up the pattern and review it and well, I love trying out new patterns; so ta da!

The Sandpoint is described as “a loose fitting T-shirt
with a surprise cowl in the back”.  It is a nice little top pattern suitable for a beginner, having separate front pattern pieces for the two neckline options, V-neck and round neck.  I think it’s biggest point of difference from other similar designs is a “shoulder band”, essentially a strip which is supposed to be worn behind the neck.  I think its purpose is probably to keep the top actually up on your shoulders and not fall off, which is pretty much a given with these necklines.  However I wasn’t keen on the shoulder band and decided to leave it off, and sewed lingerie holders inside on the shoulder seams.  I have previously used lingerie holders to keep up the shoulders of my other oversized cowl, drape-y tops, here and here, and have found them to work just fine for the job.  Fortunately they do for this one too  🙂

Because I wanted my rather bold patchworked fabric to speak for itself I decided that arm and neckline bands would be a visually distraction, fighting for attention.  So I left these off also and finished these edges by simply overlocking, turning under once and hand slip-stitching a hem in place.  My lower hem is likewise, invisibly hand stitched, and actually my top is 6.5cm longer than the pattern… for no real reason other than my patched-together fabric had the extra length, and who was I to ruthlessly cut it off? after all that careful cutting and patching it together!?  Plus, I just happen to like tops to be a little bit long.

Because I was leaving off the shoulder band, I put my top together quite differently from the instructions… namely: the instructions say to fold the back cowl allowance inside and then stitch the front and back together at the shoulders.  However this would result in a visible end-of-seam at the neck, which in the design is to be covered up by that shoulder band.  So, instead I pinned the front and the back together at the shoulders right sides together, then folded the back cowl facing allowance out to wrap around the front; then stitched the shoulder seam.  This way, when the shoulder seam is turned right side out the shoulder seam is nicely encased and hidden away within the facing, which gives a neat, more polished finish.

Details:
Top; Sandpoint by GreyDay patterns, made using 4 old cotton jersey Tshirts
Skirt; an adaption of Vogue 1247 and Vogue 8561, blue, slightly stretch denim, details here
Shoes; c/o Misano

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Olive Frankenstein skirt

I am notoriously bad at tossing out old scraps of fabric. Particularly if I really really like the colour.  
And I really really like olive.
So; after finishing my patched pockets skirt I still had some promisingly largish pieces of grey-green corduroy and olive-green moleskin leftover, and I unearthed from my “useful scraps” bag the remains of a different pair of grey-green corduroy pants that both my boys had worn at the age of eight to ten or thereabouts.  Yeah, I keep stuff a long time.  The knee areas were a bit thin in them all but there was still some nice sturdy fabric to be had there.  And the colour!

oh ok I agree, doesn’t look very promising…

So I’ve made a little skirt; just a casual knock around kinda of a thing.  It is patched together from three different fabrics but it still looks quite plain I think since the colours are so similar to each other.  I’m pretty chuffed with it!  Of the pluses of working with old unwanted textiles; it’s green, it’s economical, you can sew to your heart’s content unfettered by fear of failure.  If you’re reworking with the constraints of an old garment it exercises the ol’ brain cells a bit.  And so a successful outcome feels like a mega bonus!

The boys’ old cords had kinda cool, oversized patch pockets on them that I’ve always liked and kept because I thought they might come in handy one day.  I used these pieces with the pockets still in situ.  Some of the leg fabric of these pants had previously gone into making the Green parliament, here.  I also added some oddly shaped patch pockets to the back of my new skirt too, just because the back was a bit boring-looking without them.

Technically speaking; I used the upper skirt pattern pieces of Vogue 1247 to cut the waist to hips part with the waist-shaping darts but the overall shape of my skirt is more A-line than the pattern.  This is pretty much my favourite “little skirt” silhouette at the moment.
I used an invisible zip in the back, an old button harvested from something else long forgotten, long ago, and plain white cotton to face the waistband,  I made a bias strip of the same plain white cotton to finish the lower raw edge, turned up the lower edge once and stitched in the ditch by machine to hem.  I reckon this is the best hemming method for thick fabric since bulk is minimised by only turning up once and a bias strip looks a lot neater and prettier than overlocking. Also if you are short on fabric you can still get a nice deep hem without losing length off the skirt. . 

Details:
Skirt; my own design based upon Vogue 1247, made from three old pairs of jeans
Shirt; my own design variations upon Burda 7767, deep olive linen, details here
Thongs; Mountain Designs

this picture just because it made me laugh… o well hello there!
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White linen Zsalya dress with patchwork

Hello!  I’m wearing a new dress. The cool fingers of winter are tickling at the edges of our days so obviously I had to make a light and fluttery, floaty white linen thing for myself.  It was only logical  * 😀
Actually, the truth is that I made it a while ago now!  when we were still getting very hot weather and I have worn it several times already.  The pattern is the Zsalya from Kate & Rose patterns.  Kati emailed me to ask if I would like to test one of their lovely new range; thank you so much for the opportunity Kati!  It was so hard to choose just one!  The Zsalya is a dress or top pattern with two sleeve variations, and I made the dress with short sleeves.
I knew straight away I would love this design.  It has no closure, you just slip it on over your head and it is easy breezy, and as cool as.  In all senses of the word.  🙂
The sleeves are quite cute.  I like how they are tightly gathered in at the top which lends them a sweetly pert and boxy shape, and they have a pretty petal-shaped hemline.

The neckline is so clever.  I think it’s my favourite feature of the dress.  When I first looked at how open it was I considered putting in a little rouleau loop and button closure, but you know what? there is absolutely no need.  Gape-age just doesn’t happen, thanks to the clever design.  The crossover yoke is open so you can get your head through quite easily, but once the dress is on it all sits nicely flat and closed with a safe and demurely high neckline.  Clever!
I edged the neckline with a patchworked strip of bias cut cotton scraps; this was simply sandwiched between the yoke and yoke facing before stitching them together.

I made my dress in a handkerchief grade linen from Fabulous Fabrics, and the patchwork border is comprised of various scraps from previous projects.  I was inspired by this image. About once in a blue moon I actually find a need for those bitsy odds and sods of leftover cottons that are pretty much good for nothing, that I hoard like a crazy old fabric-obsessed miser.  This was one of those rare occasions.  Vindication!
The patchwork panel is backed with a white linen facing to stabilise it.

I added in-seam side pockets  🙂

Really, even though it looks blustery as all get-out in these pictures and it was, it was also quite insanely hot and muggy on the day I took them.  So a loose little linen number was actually just what the Fremantle doctor ordered!  I was getting bored with all my summer dresses so it was nice to have an excuse to make a new one.  Summer dresses are such fun, both to make and to wear.  And even this late in the season it’s always nice to have a fresh and new-ish summer dress waiting in the wings of the wardrobe over winter  🙂

* Mr Spock, of course

Details:
Dress; the Kate & Rose Zsalya dress, white linen with patchwork details
Thongs, Havaianas

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Old things…

… this will be the very last of my “old things” posts.  I promise.
I’ve done a mammoth sort-through of the photos and I think this is it!  (heaves a sigh of relief…)

Firstly, since this is the only garment in this post still in our possession (apart from the Grim Reaper come burqa outfit, that is); a cardigan I knitted for Craig.  It is knitted in the fair isle method.  Above is a picture Craig took of me wearing his cardigan on a holiday last year (isn’t he sweet, giving his cold inadequately-dressed wife his nicely pre-warmed cardigan to wear, hmmm?  What a gentleman!)
And some close-ups of the cardigan I took today…
showing the right front, and at right the wrong side of the fair isle knitting… (as is correct, the yarn is carried over at the back with no weaving in, only if the distance is four stitches or less…)

Now, some costumes…
Sam as “Link”.  I thought he was so cute in this.  He loved this little outfit and often wore it just for everyday wear.  (if you would like to see what this cute little jigger looks like now, go here…)

Sam, as… guess who?  Hehe, the famous Harry Potter, natch, compete with broomstick and Hedwig the owl.  
On that note, a black cloak is such a useful thing to have in the dress-up box.  It can be the basis for so many costumes.

Here is the same robe again, worn by Cassie as Hermione, complete with Garfield Crookshanks the cat… I threw together the skirt and tie as well, but they do not bear close inspection…!)

(I’ve shown this picture before… but here it is again just to illustrate the versatility of the plain black robe as a costume), Tim and two of his mates as Grim Reapers.  I made all three of their costumes.

Tim’s same costume again, this time worn by me to an Arabian Nights party.  I didn’t want to hire an outfit and I didn’t want to make some bejewelled thing I would never wear again, and as every single female I have seen in the Arabian region is dressed something like this, so I was like, yeah this’ll do.  I naively assumed other girls would have the same idea…  As it turned out I was literally the only female dressed (I thought) anywhere near authentically!  Also the only one not heavily sequinned and baring plenty of belly-flesh…  I confess the costume was abandoned when we decided to start dancing!  Don’t worry I had a skirt and top on underneath…

So, away from costumes now, and a ball-gown of my own design that I made for balls in years gone by (Sorry for the headless shot but my face and my hair look awful in this picture…!)  It is silk organza, overlaying silk and silk jersey layers, three layers in all.  It had a beaded and embroidered neckpiece, both beaded and embroidered by me, that is…

A dress I made for Cassie for her graduation dance at the end of primary school.  It was a simple turquoise cotton halter neck dress, the fabric had metallic gold lines randomly strewn across.  I also made her jewellery, of turquoise glass fish beads and strands of gold wire.

Some rather lovely (if I say so myself) wide-legged white pants that she wore almost constantly for a summer, and a little white broderie anglaise blouse.  Both my own design.

Going way back, and this shirt is from a Vogue designer pattern that I believe my mother still has my copy…  I know I also made and am wearing here the small-waisted and very flared skirt from the same pattern too…

I made both the skirt and top and also my necklace here.  The top was an experiment, I flipped the shoulders out in a twist to get this cowl-like effect.  It used to get a lot of compliments, believe it or not! (my friends are very kind)  We are sitting on one of our sofas in its first slipcover, made by me too…  (now looks like this)

Some more dresses.  I really regret now I never got any good pictures of these two.  The white and red one was rather nice; it was a dress, but looked like a matching skirt and camisole when I was wearing it, as it had layers in several graduated lengths.  My own design.  The patchwork dress, also my own design, took lots of planning; I bought the fabrics separately and cut and pieced them together, then made the dress.  It has smaller squares at the top, graduating to larger squares around the midriff, and then down to the largest squares at the hemline.  It is all on the bias, with a handkerchief hem, and I loved it!

A drop waisted, handkerchief hemmed dress of white dotted swiss voile, pictured against a famous backdrop.  I still have this Vogue pattern too, actually…

And that should be all folks!
From now on, I will only be showing newly made stuff here….

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Double wedding ring quilt

So, to the penultimate in my quilting output…
I have only one more quilt in my repertoire after this but I will have to make an appointment to go and visit that one…
However, this one is far dearer to my heart anyway; it was made for our own bed and Craig chose the fabrics.  It was made during 1995, and was probably just about the only thing I managed to make in that year.
I used a book which gave a very quick piecing technique for the “rings”; you cut all the coloured patterned pieces in long strips, then joined the strips together lengthwise to make a piece with six rows of your different fabrics.  Then you cut this piece of fabric into strips the other way.  So you had a whole bunch of strips of squares joined together… Then you just resewed each seam with a small diagonal new seam adjustment, going from no adjustment to a few millimetres; bingo, you had all these perfectly proportioned curves.  The book had a table in it, depending on the size “rings” you were making. It was so much easier than I imagine if you had to cut out all those little patches to be just the exact right size from scratch…  This bit, and piecing the whole top together probably only took a few days.  Then for the quilting… 
quilting…
quilting…
about a year later…  
No, not the fastest quilter on the block, for sure! (oh, I should mention here that it is quilted entirely by hand… by me, natch)
The quilt is edged with bias binding that I made from the same red cotton as in the 4-corner bizzoes.  It was attached by machine, and then handstitched in place over to the back.  The quilt measures 190cm x 190 cm (6’4″ x 6’4″)
It’s a bit old-fashioned for today’s sensibilities and we don’t have it on our bed any more.  But it is stored away for posterity.

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Little house pillowcase, and old slipcover

I made this pillowcase for my niece when she was born five years ago, and have had it back the last few days for a few minor repairs…
Yes, the patchwork is intentionally wonky.  I am normally very obsessive about exact squares and perfectly matched corners and edges, so this sort of inexact “naive” style was a nice change.  I enjoyed the randomness of it!
The design is my own.  I had the vision in my head of a little pink cottage with a skewiff picket fence in a field of green; but made it up pretty much as I went along, based on a few similar sorts of designs that I’ve seen over the years in homewares magazines and such.  I chose the sharp lime green/hot raspberry pink colour scheme because it was fun and funky; and feminine without being too over-the-top girly.
D’ya wanna hear something funny?  My son asked if it was a Space Invader.  He’s thought it was one for years.  LOL!

The back view… and here it is perched on top of my very first attempt at a slipcover.  Don’t look too closely at the slipcover, because this is years old now.  It has served as a kitten scratch-post more than a few times, and is a bit thin in some places, a bit ripped in other places, has a few permanent stains, and has a few wonky seam-lines.  But I like the less than perfect look of it.  
At least I know no one’s been afraid to sit on it.

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