Tag Archives: Pattern Review

A little bit of Lagerfeld

20/05/2011 9:12 am \ 38 Comments \

Filling another (so-called) must-have void in my wardrobe; the little black skirt.  I do have a charcoal skirt already, that is a much worn little thing, but the classic black was missing; well, no more.  I really made this about a month ago, and am only now getting around to wearing it and photographing it.  With Me-Made June floating around soon I thought I’d better get onto keeping up with documenting my actual sewing in these posts, I still have a few newies that haven’t appeared here yet…
So now I have my classic black skirt I should be set for winter, although as Donna rightly pointed out yesterday I rarely wear the “classic white shirt” much either.  Maybe I’m not classic enough?  Paradoxically I often find my more out-there and distinctive garments such as my bright orange skirt, a lot easier to work into my daily ensembles.  Hmmm, ridiculously still don’t really know what my “style” is; this requires more thought…
Whastevs, I always intended to have a go at this allegedly Karl Lagerfeld designed skirt from the 10/2010 issue of Burdastyle magazine, the reason I bought this magazine, actually.
I used up another piece of leftovers from my stash, this a piece of black gabardine leftover from a long gone skirt I made back in 2007.  Yah, ’bout time it got used up, huh…?
I feel hugely and disproportionately chuffed when I do reduce the stash, especially when it’s a piece of fabric I’ve had this long.  And, confession time, the stash is still getting added to, all too frequently…  it’s like a one step forward, two steps back kind of thing.  I wonder if I will ever be at a point when I have no fabric, and need to go fabric shopping?  Hard to imagine… (insert literal lol here)
Back to the skirt…
I did incorporate a few modifications, as usual.  The blindingly obvious is that I lengthened it by about 12cm, or as much as my piece of fabric would allow me.  Would you look at the skirt length on that model?? (at right)  Granted, she could be over six foot tall, but still.  Almost more like a belt, really.  My husband has a term to describe skirts like that, but I won’t reproduce it here… family viewing and all that…
Another obvious modification I made is to the back of the skirt; if you look at Burda’s line drawing you can see the original design has a gathered elasticised waistband at the back.  Gathered elasticised waistbands are an anathema to me.  Like, no way…  So I made a slightly curved back waistband fitted to my waist, and dealt with the fullness of the skirt by incorporating two big inverted box pleats, sewed to about 7cm long, in the usual dart position.  Pretty pleased with how this looks too.  I like my version, a lot.  I think the pleats are far more pleasing to the eye that a gather would be, and the look of them fits in a lot better with the look of the front of the skirt, which has some pleating too.
The other modification; a minor one, is to increase the size of those laughably small inseam side pockets.  No kidding, those pockets as they were were designed for children.
So there you have it.  My new skirt, a little bit of Lagerfeld in my wardrobe!

Details:
Skirt; Burdastyle magazine 10-2010-136 with some modifications, black gabardine
Shirt; Brown Sugar
Cardigan; Allude, from Ricarda
Tights; Kolotex
Shoes; Misano, from Labels

Above and below; the buttons are decorative, closure is by hidden snaps sewn inside the front waistband
The back view, with box pleats sewn in the skirt back instead of the gathered elasticised waistband

Below is my pattern review…

Pattern Description:
Trouser styled mini skirt with front creases, front fly zip and extra-wide hem-cuff/turn-up.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42, I made a size 38
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes, except that mine is about 12cm longer.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Pretty easy.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I particularly like the “trouser” styling of the skirt. It’s a really tailored kind of looking skirt, and yet still manages to look cute and funky.   The front pleats are sharp; in the cool and stylin’ sense of the word…  I also love the interest of the little flaps over the front pleats.  The turn-up at the hem is yet another interesting feature in a little skirt packed with interesting features.
I didn’t like how the back was to be gathered into an elasticised waistband, but that is just my personal taste; I loathe elasticised waistbands with a passion.  So I modified mine to be NOT elasticised.
Fabric Used:
Gabardine, the sort men’s business suits are made of
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I lengthened the skirt pieces at around hip level,  by about 12cm.  The original is SHORT!
To replace the elasticised waistband; I made a slightly curved back waistband fitted to my waist, and folded and sewed box pleats (7cm long) on each of the skirt backs in the usual dart position, to take in the extra fullness of the skirt pieces into my waist measurement.  I really like how my skirt back turned out, much much better than an elasticised waist… sorry, Mr Lagerfeld.
The inseam side pockets as they are, are tiny, so I made mine a bit bigger.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I’m sure when this distinctive little skirt is worn out, I will sew a replacement!
Conclusion:
I bought this issue of the Burdastyle magazine, just because of the Lagerfeld patterns, and this skirt didn’t let me down.  I adore the styling of it!  It is tailored, classic and smart, and yet has interesting and distinctive features.  With that bit of added length I think it would make quite a witty office skirt too.

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Bracelet-sleeve jacket in raspberry

18/05/2011 10:28 am \ 26 Comments \

I finished my jacket for Sherry’s RTW Tailoring sew-along!  Finally…
Hehe, I wouldn’t blame poor Sherry for giving up on me in disgust, what with my intermittent effort thanks to pattern indecision, as well as the interruption of hiking trips and charity balls, both of which required some intervening sewing effort from me, but here is my RTW jacket, finally finished.  Of course eagle eyed readers will notice immediately that this is a completely different jacket from my original good intentions (snort).  No really, I still do intend to get onto that pattern and that fabric properly.  One day…
Now did I employ the couture techniques learnt from the wonderful Vogue 8333 in the making of this simple little thing?  (pause for effect..)  no.
I basically followed this pattern, and just made a few adjustments for fitting considerations.  Namely, took some width off those grid-iron shoulders, and removed considerable width from the top half of those weight-lifter-worthy sleeves.  
The thing I’m fairly proud of is that I only had about 1.3m of this raspberry-red hessian silk in my stash, enough for a good length skirt.  Not really enough for a jacket!  Thus the choice of this pattern, a simply proportioned cropped jacket with bracelet length sleeves.  And even so, my sleeves are about 5cm shorter than specified in the pattern, and I barely squeaked the pattern pieces out of my length of fabric.  And I had to leave off the pockets (sigh, I do love pockets…)

If you look at the front facings inside the jacket, you will see more evidence of my lack of fabric, see that triangular patched in bit?  It looks the same on each of the facings, and was necessary because I really didn’t have enough fabric.  Usually I hate that sort of messy piecing together of bits to get a pattern piece out of the available fabric, but every now and again it has to be done, in emergencies.  This was an emergency.  I even traipsed out to the fabric shop to get a bit extra of the same fabric… you guessed it, it had sold out and the colour was discontinued.  That will teach me, for hanging on to fabric for years before using it…  Thankfully the patch is completely unseen when I am wearing the jacket, or I wouldn’t have considered it.

The pattern incorporates a very interesting sleeve design, a design I’ve not come across before.  They are two pieced sleeves, but not the usual kind.  Instead, they have an under-sleeve seam, hitting right at the lowest point of the armscye, and a top of sleeve seam, running along the top of each arm.  The top shaping of the sleeve cap is enhanced by two darts.
Also, the coat has side pieces, with no side seams; resulting in princess-like seams on the front and the back.  So that under-sleeve seam doesn’t meet up with a side seam.  A unique design in my experience.  

The jacket is completely lined with raspberry coloured acetate lining. 
I chose not to block-fuse the entire jacket.  This is because I like my jackets to be soft and comfy, like a cardigan.  I used fusible interfacing on the front facings, the collar and on the hem allowances of the jacket and sleeves.
However, patched-together facing pieces aside, I do love my new jacket.  It is a colour I love, in a comfortable easy to wear style that I love.  I’m sure it will be appearing a few times here, come Me-Made June.

Details:
Jacket; Vogue 2894 with some fitting modifications, raspberry hessian silk
Skirt; Vogue 7303, olive green corduroy, to see this skirt styled in 6 different ways go here
Scarf; made by me, a re-fashioned Tshirt, see here
Top and tights; Metalicus
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

And if you are interested, below is the review of this pattern I submitted to Pattern Review…

Pattern Description:
Loose-fitting fully interfaced, lined jacket with collar, patch pockets and three-quarter length sleeves.  Pleated skirt, 2″ below waistline with yoke, side pocket opening and below mid-knee length.  I have made the skirt as well but this review is just for the jacket.
Pattern Sizing:
8-10-12, I used size 8.  I would usually fit a size 10, but the 8 is still quite a loose-fitting jacket on me.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
very easy
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
The sizing runs quite big.  Even though I went down a size, the shoulders were still very grid iron on me, and the sleeves themselves so puffy as to make me look like a weight-lifter on my day off.
But after removing fabric off each of these areas I’m very happy with the boxy yet streamlined shape of the jacket.
I like that it didn’t require much fabric.  I only had 1.3m, from which I just managed to squeeze out the pattern pieces.  Admittedly, I had to make a small patch on the front facings, but I still managed to get out my jacket!
The design is quite unusual, which I really like.  The sleeves are two-pieced, but not in the usual way.  Instead there is an underarm seam, joining up with the lowest point of the arm-scye, and a top of sleeve seam, meeting up with the shoulder seam.  The sleeve cap is shaped with two darts.  I’ve never come across this sleeve design before.
The body of the jacket has side pieces, meaning there are princess like seams on the front and back of the jacket, but no side seams.  Meaning that under-sleeve seam doesn’t meet up with a matching side seam… interesting.
Fabric Used:
Silk hessian
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Because of the grid-iron shoulders, I took off about 4cm off the width of the shoulders, and graded in the arm-scye and top of the torso area accordingly.  The sleeves are also very roomy.  I took in about 2.5cm from the width of the top of the sleeves.  I sadly had to leave off the patch pockets, and my sleeves are about 5cm shorter than the pattern, thanks to lack of fabric…
I chose not to fully interface the jacket, as I like my jackets to be soft.  I used fusible interfacing on the front facings, the collar, and on the jacket and sleeve hem allowances.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Definitely I will sew this cute little jacket again!
Conclusion:
Great little pattern with some unusual design features, and very very easy!

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Hiking pants

17/04/2011 4:15 am \ 21 Comments \

I’ve finished my new hiking pants!
And I likey.  These feel so so comfortable, almost good enough to sleep in, and they also feel quite tough and practical, to withstand the demands of being out in the bush.  And pretty soon they are going to be put to the test, so we’ll see how they go…
They are made from khaki rip-stop cotton, pre-washed twice to shrink and soften it up as much as possible.  I’ve learnt from past experience that this stuff is real hardwearing because it is very densely woven, which is fab.  You want that for hiking pants.  But its a good idea to toss it in the machine for a couple of heavy duty hot cycles before you go blunting your good dressmaking scissors and sewing machine needles on it.
I used a pattern from Burdastyle magazine issue 10/2010, pants 110.  Previously I have made up the shorts version of this pattern, so I knew already they fit well and were very comfortable to wear.  And I really like the streamlined style at the top of the pants, with no waistband and no bulky darts or pleats at the front.
My version of these pants have a few minor variations to the pattern, as follows:
Firstly, I cut the pants legs to be perfectly straight rather than tapered in to the ankle.  This was made super easy for me to do with this fabric, as it is self-marked in a grid pattern, so from mid-thigh level I just cut straight down to the ankle, following the lines on the fabric.  Easy peasy.  I also left off the ankle bands and simply hemmed the bottom edges.  Oh and I added about 10cm to the leg length, and am very glad I did.  Would have been ankle freezers if I had not, methinks…
Secondly, the pattern only had four pockets; two slanted side hip pockets and two welt pockets on the back, which are pretty small and in practise hardly ever get used for anything.  How many ladies out there actually put anything in those little back welt pockets?  Hmmm?  I’m betting no one…  Situated right on your bottom cheeks as they are, putting stuff in those pockets makes for a lumpy bumpy funny-looking rear view, as any lady knows, so really they are a purely decorative thing… so I added two roomy cargo pockets on the outside leg, details here.
Lastly, I used snaps for the closure in lieu of buttons, as these just seem sturdier and more practical for when you’re out in the bush.  Snaps are not going to come flying off and get lost in a sand dune, and need re-sewing on out in the middle of nowhere.

Details:
Pants; Burdastyle magazine 10-2010-111 with a few minor variations, khaki cotton
Top; top “a” from “Unique Clothes Any Way You Like” by Natsuko Hiraiwa, white cotton, details here
Shoes; Country Road
Backpack; souvenir from Santa Fe

Pattern Description:
Flat fronted, mid-rise trousers with faced waist, fly front, slanted hip pockets, back single welt pockets, underlap with button for internal closure, outer tab with button for another waist closure.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42, I made a size 36 at the waist, tapering out to a 38 at the hips.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
In essence, although I made a few variations.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.  I had previously made the shorts version of this pattern, and the instructions are pretty much the same, so it was a second go at it.  When I made the shorts I found the instructions for the waist facing attachment to be quite confusing, but I had it all worked out by this time!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I liked the unbulky streamlined top of the pants, and the loose comfortable look and feel of them.  It’s a pretty straightforward pair of pants, goes together well, the pattern works, and they fit me like a dream.  I wanted a pair of cargo pants, and I think this pattern adapted really well to give me that look that I wanted.
The magazine version has the legs gathered into an ankle band, making the legs kind of “bloomer-y”; I didn’t really like this and omitted this feature from my version.
Fabric Used:
Rip-stop cotton
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added about 10cm in length to the legs and also cut them to be straight from mid-thigh level down to the ankle, rather than slightly tapered as in the pattern.  Also, as mentioned above, I left the lower legs loose and un-gathered and omitted the ankle band.
I added big cargo pockets with flaps on the outside leg seam.  So now they have six pockets!
I used snaps in lieu of buttons.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
If I need another pair of loose comfortable casual pants I would definitely use this one again!  I love these pants.  And yes, I do recommend this one to others.
Conclusion:
Love my new pants!  They are so comfortable and I think they make a reasonably cute pair of cargoes.  I’m putting them to the test out bush soon, so I’m hoping they will stand up well to a few days of hard knocks.

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Clad in plaid

29/03/2011 4:39 am \ 21 Comments \

I deemed today cool enough to wear one of ma newbies; a plaid shirtdress made using pattern no. 111 from Burdastyle magazine 05/2010.  Naturally with a one or two little adaptions…
The brushed cotton is stash fabric I’ve had for yonks, and have finally got around to using… actually initially intended for a shirt for one of the boys but I decided to be selfish and waylaid it for my own devious purposes instead, mwahaha.  The reason for my lack of motherly thoughtfulness; when I was out shopping the other week I tried on a delightful little plaid shirtdress in Country Road and fell in love with the style.  Had to have one.  Just had to.  So searched through my pattern collection until I found this suitable candidate and added to it some features that were absent from the pattern but are nice finishing touches for a classic shirtdress.  
My alterations to the pattern were namely, the addition of buttoned arrowhead tabs to the shoulders and also inside the sleeves so the sleeves can be rolled up and buttoned to elbow length (probably the way I will wear it most of the time!), the addition of inseam side pockets (well, really, why are these not in the pattern anyway, hmmm? tut tut, just no excuse, imo), and hemming the lower edge in a nice classic shirt curve.  Plus, instead of the straight up and down side seams of the original, mine is shaped slightly to give it some vague hint of a waist.  
Also I left off the belt carriers, which in the magazine photograph (below right) show the belt to be at a supremely unflattering spot just above the hips, and just underneath the tummy.  Err, no…  And incidentally this is right where one would want one’s pockets to go anyway.  If I am going to wear a belt with this dress, it will be up around the waist where it should be.  I love Burdastyle magazine, but just occasionally their styling options leave a bit to be desired…
Oh, and please note, it may not be obvious from the photo but my plaids front and back match up perfectly!  Plaids not matching up is one of those little things that I find pretty irritating if I see it… (yah, neurotic, I know)
Below is the review I submitted to Pattern Review, if you’re interested.

Details:
Dress; Burdastyle magazine 05-2010-111 with minor alterations, brushed cotton
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes
Sunnies; RayBan

Pattern Description:
Slightly flared shirt-waister with long front polo fastening and flapped breast pockets
Pattern Sizing:
38-46,  I sewed a size 38.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Pretty much.  I added some bits and made a few variations.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the basic pattern.  It was a bit too basic for what I had in mind, so I added a few details.
Fabric Used:
brushed cotton
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added buttoned arrowhead tabs to the shoulders (purely decorative) and also to inside the sleeves so the sleeves can be rolled up to elbow length and buttoned in place.
I added inseam side pockets.
On my version the straight up-and-down side seams are slightly shaped to give some vague hint of a waist.
I omitted the belt carriers because I saw no need for them, also to put the inseam pockets at this level of the dress.  If I wear a belt with this I will have it around the waist.
I put only one button and buttonhole on each of the breast pocket flaps, because I thought the two buttons per flap looked a little fiddly and would be annoying to open and close.
The lower edge I hemmed in a nice curved classic shirt curve.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
If I needed another shirtdress I probably would use this pattern.  And I would definitely recommend it to others as a good basic pattern.
Conclusion:
Great pattern, very easy to make, and I love it!  I wasn’t initially excited by the picture in the magazine of this dress, well to be brutally honest my first impression was that it looked awful, and outdated.  I think the belt was the problem.  But with the little added extras, lifted from RTW mens’ shirts and ladies shirtdresses I’ve seen around, I’m now super happy with how it turned out.

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Burda 7723, a pattern review

13/03/2011 6:17 am \ 17 Comments \

These shorts aren’t new here on the blog, I made them over a year ago and have worn them a zillion times since, although not for Me-Made-March yet.  Since this version here was my first attempt at this now fairly well-worn pattern, and the only time I’ve made them up exactly to pattern I thought it was high time to review it… albeit belatedly.  The review I submitted to Pattern Review is below, if you’re interested.
Incidentally the shirt is another of my most-used patterns, Burda 7767 that I’ve made up possibly a dozen times now (?I think?), and also the first cab-off-the-rank from this pattern and the only version made up exactly to this pattern too!!  Hehe, it’s pretty rare for me to stick identically to a pattern the second or more times around… and not introduce little variations and/or improvements (that’s debatable…) for subsequent garments.  Not always fabulously successful alterations, I hasten to point out…  but that’s the beauty of being handy with a needle, if you’re not completely happy you can take steps.  Like I did yesterday…

Details:
Shirt; Burda 7767, pink linen with navy blue top-stitching and buttons, close-up details here, my review of this pattern here
Shorts; Burda 7723, white linen, close-up details here
Thongs; Mountain Design
Nail varnish; Glamourpuss, BYS

Pattern Description:
High-waisted shorts; with double pleated front, fly front, front slanted pockets.  There is included as well patterns for a pair of trousers, and two variations of a jacket.
Pattern Sizing:
European 34-44 (8-18)  I made up a straight size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
very easy
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love just about everything about this pattern!  The pattern is very well drafted and goes together easily and well.  The pockets are generous and deep, and the double pleated front allows enough fabric fullness for you to shove your hands down deep in those pockets with plenty of room.
Some very very minor issues; it doesn’t have a zip placket, but this is a super easy feature to add yourself.  Also the waistband is not shaped, so subsequent times I’ve made up this pattern I’ve sewn a diagonal joining seam in the centre back of the waistband to accommodate my sway-back.
Fabric Used:
linen
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I added rear patch pockets.  Subsequent times I’ve made up this pattern, I’ve lengthened and flared the legs slightly,  added the aforementioned zip placket, and for one version re-drafted the front piece to eliminate the front pleats, as I was using heavily embroidered fabric and wished to avoid the extra bulk of the pleats.
As mentioned above, I’ve sewn the centre back seam of the waistband with a diagonal seam, to accommodate a swayback.
The waistband is designed to be a double width, that folds in on itself to form its own facing; for two versions of these shorts using bulkier fabric I joined a strip of fashion fabric to a strip of thinner cotton fabric to become the inner facing.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I’ve sewn this shorts pattern up four times now.  It is my tried and true go-to shorts pattern.  I highly recommend this pattern!
Conclusion:
Absolutely, this is one of my favourite patterns that I turn to first when I’m considering a pair of shorts.  I think the shape is very flattering and I love the wide waistband, that sits firmly and securely up high on the waist, holding everything in.

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Burdastyle 10-2010-111A, a pattern review

02/03/2011 5:50 am \ 15 Comments \

Remember I wrote I’d made some matching shorts to wear under this little sundress?  Well, here they are.  Whew, they are so so short and flimsy I probably wouldn’t be wearing them on their own like this if I didn’t have a completely quiet non-sociable day dog-walking and house-cleaning planned, oh, yeah, hehe and of course a bit of office work too (I have to say that bit because my husband sometimes reads this…)  These little things are no more substantial than boxer shorts, so I feel a bit underdressed in them here.  But on the beach I was OK since there were not many people, and those that I did encounter today were equally if not more sparsely attired.
Actually I made these about 2.5-3cm longer than the pattern stipulated, as long as my scrap of fabric allowed me to make them, so can you imagine how tiny these would be otherwise?

Details:
Shorts; Burdastyle magazine 10-2010-111A, Japanese cotton
Top; “b” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white cotton
Sunnies; RayBan

Here is the review I submitted for this pattern:

Pattern Description: 
Shorts with fly front, faced waist, welt pockets, slanted front pockets and underlay with button for internal closure.  This pattern basically does for three different garments in the magazine; short shorts, bermudas, and longer trousers, with a few different pattern pieces and modifications.  To save myself future effort, I traced out the pieces and variations for all three at the same time.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42.  I traced a size36, graduating out at the hips to a size 38 because I like a bit of flare, plus I was using flimsy fabric that wouldn’t have looked nice in a form-fitting garment.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Now here I have to be honest and say no, they were not, particularly!  If you’ve never sewed a welt pocket before, the instructions provided for sewing these would be awfully confusing.  I’ve sewn plenty, and these instructions still had me scratching my head a bit over what was the joining line, the abutting line and the stitching line.  And as for the instructions for the underlay, zip and the waist facing, well these were VERY confusing also.  When I read the instructions out aloud to my family it sounds hilarious because they are so crazy confusing….  like trying to build a space station or something…  I misunderstood the zip attachment and sewed the zip in place with a nice curved topstitching on the shorts front.  This turned out to be wrong.  Right near the end I had an a-ha moment and had to unpick the zip almost completely to do it the right way NOT attached the the shorts front, but only the facing, so I could insert the waist facing all neatly tucked in and finished around the zip tape and underlay as the pattern intended.  This was one of those times when an illustration ala how the envelope patterns do it would have helped a tonne.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that only a tiny amount of fabric is needed for these shorts.  I think I had roughly 60-70cm of 115cm fabric, which was just enough except for pocket innards, for which I used other scraps.  The pattern is well drafted and fits together well.  I like the clean lines of the shorts, no pleating or waistband gives them a contemporary and streamlined look.
What I don’t like; if I’d made them up to the pattern they would have been too short for my liking!
Fabric Used:
Lightweight cotton.  The pattern recommends brushed wool.  I think a thicker fabric like this would work really well.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added about 2.5-3cm in length.  These would have been way too short for me to wear out in public otherwise!
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I do recommend this cute little pattern, and now I “get” the instructions I will sew these again in a more appropriate fabric, such as corduroy, and definitely adding the extra length.  Although if you are under the age of twenty, the shorter length would be fine.
Conclusion:
I sewed these to wear under a short little sundress of the same fabric, for modesty.  Their streamlined non-bloomer-y shape makes them perfect for this purpose.  So I am very happy with them.

 

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A new sundress

21/02/2011 7:41 am \ 29 Comments \

I made a new sundress for myself… using the summer-weight cotton fabric I had bought during our shopping day out in Tokyo with Yoshimi and Novita.  Japanese fabric!  This now is one of my wearable souvenirs from our trip…!
The weather has been so so so so hot! that I still need some light little sundresses, even though perhaps I should be starting to think about autumn and winter sewing now, with days as hot and dry as we have been getting it is hard to believe it is ever going to get cold!  Dabbling my feet in the water here was so nice I really didn’t want to leave this lovely little spot and get back to my daily chores, plus a mountain of office work that I’ve been putting off… woops, sewing has been so much more interesting to me lately I forgot I had to do actual work as well!
I used a Burdastyle pattern, dress 114 from the 5/2010 issue… and have to say I like using the patterns from this series.  It’s economical and feels a bit more of a challenge to make stuff this way.  It’s not as though I’m new to this sort of tracing-out-of-patterns, as I made many many things from the Topkids magazine when my kids were little, but I haven’t done it for a few years so it feels a bit new.  And yes, as a commenter said on one of my posts previously, the pattern instructions are usually a lot more challenging too, because you are not walked through with helpful little illustrations like the conventional envelope patterns.  I think I’m very visual, because I find that way heaps easier.
Before I hemmed this dress I tried it on and it felt a bit too short.  Which is funny, because it’s not as though it’s actually any shorter when compared to many of my sundresses, but because of the very wide pouffy swirly A-line skirt it did feel shorter… if that makes any sense…  so I hemmed with a very narrow hem and also made some little shorts to wear underneath from the leftover fabric.   Fortunately I just had just enough leftover to squeeze out one pair of shorts… and so I am perfectly safe from a strong breeze showing the world the colour of my undies.  Back when I was little my mother used to make me lots of little dresses with matching bloomers to wear underneath, and this is the same principle.  Except these are not bloomers but tailored shorts with a zip and welt pockets, and all…  I’m not showing the shorts off here, because I have way too much class to lift my skirt on purpose… you just have to trust me that they are there and I will show them off on a future post.

Details:
Dress; Burdastyle 05-2010-114, Japanese cotton
Shorts; (worn under) Burdastyle 10-2010-111, Japanese cotton
Hat; Country Road
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs shoes

Pattern Description:
A-line sunback dress with empire seam under the bust has a skirt of two gathered tiers, and side seam zip.
Pattern Sizing:
34-42, I made size 36, and made it a little wider at the bust
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It is super easy!  There are only two pattern pieces to trace out, the skirts are just rectangles. 
I love the loose flippy feel of it, it is a comfortable and lovely style well suited to our hot dry summers.  This same super-flippiness however also compelled me to make a little pair of matching shorts to wear underneath!  If you wanted to, the instruction provide dimensions for a third tier to make the dress a maxi length.  I didn’t think the maxi-length would have suited this print, however.
The only thing I didn’t like, well, it’s my own fault, I wanted pockets and inserted them in the side seams, and that lower tier falls at just the wrong place, just where I wanted the pockets to go!  No biggie, the pockets just sit a few centimetres lower than I would have preferred.
Fabric Used:
Cotton
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut out the back bodice wider and higher to have more coverage, I did this to to avoid bra-strap exposure.  
I added inseam pockets, which sit just at the top of the lower tier.  As I mentioned above, this is a tad too low, but I can live with it.
I added about 3cm to the length of the lower tier, and I’m very glad of this little bit of extra length.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I probably would sew this one again.  I highly recommend it as a very easy, pretty and feminine little sundress.
Conclusion:
Great little dress; cute, very comfortable, feminine, cool and breezy.  I am going to enjoy wearing this one!

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Gloves: finishing off, and a pattern review

19/02/2011 7:05 am \ 20 Comments \

Relax, the difficult bit is well and truly over.  All that is left are straightforward finishing off seams… easy peasy!

The version I chose here has a long gathered body to it, with elastic sewn in the long sides to bunch it all up elegantly.  The instructions say to sew in a zigzag stitch down the length of the elastic like so… all well and good.

Then I sewed up the remaining side seam of the glove…

Now, to attach the elastic to the flat ironed-out seam, as specified in the instructions is an impossibility on my standard ordinary little machine… I tried, but it is pretty much impossible for me to sew up the inside of a long tube as narrow as this one.. I settled for sewing the elastic to the side seam allowance.  Has almost the same finished effect, really… as well as being my only option.

Oh, of course the final step is the lower hem, but I didn’t take a photo of this, after those gussets a simple hem is kinda humdrum…!
Et voila, my first pair of gloves!

Hehe, so pleased with myself that this “muslin” turned out OK and I will undoubtably wear them once in a while.
Now will I cut up my suede skirt to make some gloves using this pattern?  I might, but I’m going to take a short break to do some regular clothes sewing first, start working on those ten stash-busting garments, and I will take out my old leather gloves and carefully size them up against these new stretch fabric ones before taking the next step.
Following is the review I submitted for this pattern:

Pattern Description:
Package includes patterns and instructions to make nine pairs of unlined gloves.  Each view is available is size small, medium or large.  Variations include contrast applique, contrast lined gauntlet, contrast tabs and covered buttons. 
Pattern Sizing:
Allegedly small (18cm), medium (20cm) and large (23cm).
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
I made view A, and yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are straightforward, but making gloves is not really easy…
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like that it is a well drafted pattern, the pieces went together very well and fitted together perfectly. 
What I didn’t like; well, what do those measurements, small, medium and large actually mean?  There is not a clue on the pattern instructions as to what part of your hand you should measure to find out which size you should be looking for!
Also, in spite of saying that the gloves come in three sizes, they actually do not!  The pattern is really only in one size.  The different “sizes” are just simple lengthening of the arm tubes and gauntlets, which is an obvious adjustment anyone could make without needing a pattern to do so… there are no gradings on the pattern pieces to allow for different sized hands.  If you had particularly long or short fingers you could probably make this adjustment yourself without too much trouble, but I think adjusting for a wider hand would be a lot trickier.
I guess this is why a stretch fabric is recommended!
But ultimately my first attempt at gloves fit alright, so I must have an “average” hand… thankfully.
Fabric Used:
Stretch cotton jersey
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
none
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I originally bought this pattern because I had seen beautifully coloured gloves in runway shows that were unavailable in the shops, and because I wanted a new challenge.  Then an old suede skirt I had got a bit stretched-out in places and I thought I would cut it up to make some gloves for myself…  these jersey gloves are my “muslin”, or trying out the pattern for the first time.  I would still like to use this pattern to make gloves from my suede skirt, but I’m unsure how the un-stretchy suede will go with this stretch fabric pattern.  I’m going to think about it before I cut up my suede skirt, for sure!
Regardless of whether I use the suede or a different fabric, I’m sure I will use this pattern again.
I recommend this pattern for advanced seamstresses who are looking for a new challenge.
Conclusion:
Making gloves is not for the faint-hearted, and is a fiddly process.  But once you get the hang of those tiny seams and fiddly little gussets it is a quick project.  I’m not crazy about all nine of the variations of this pattern, but some of them are really beautiful and unlike anything I’ve seen in the shops here, so I’m excited I can add something different to my wardrobe like this!

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