Category Archives: Uncategorized

black Sophie bikini

black-sophie

Hello!  I’ve made this new bikini…

ccf sophie Pattern:  the Sophie swimsuit by Closet Case patterns; and yes, I did make two sets of Sophie bikinis earlier in the year when I was testing this pattern but there were things about both pairs that I wasn’t happy with.  With the pink/black one, while I really liked the bikini top, I really didn’t like how the colour blocking on the bottoms looked.  And with my grey pair, the bikini cups really were just too scant for my liking.
But mostly, it just came over me that I really wanted a black bikini this year.  I’ve also kept the pink/black top, altered it to be a halter neck; and also the charcoal bottoms and plan to continue wearing them too, mixing and matching with each other and with my new black ones here too.  Now I’ve got so much choice!

Fabric: a quite thick, black stretch polyester/lycra fabric from Fabulous Fabrics.  It has a slightly rough side which I prefer to the smooth shiny “right” side, so I used the rougher side out for my right side.  This is what you can do when you Make Your Own!

Now, sizes and fit; and this is my tip for fitting a foam-lined bra/bikini top:  Cut out the foam cups, baste together and test the fit of these on you FIRST!  Once the fit of the foam cups is perfect, repeat the same alterations to your fashion fabric…   This is the exact same advice I would give for self-fitting a foam lined bra for yourself.

My own personal fit modifications… and please skip this bit if you want! after all it’s only of interest to me, really!  For both my black, and my pink/black bikini tops, I cut the size 4 but with a size 4 cup.  I pieced together the 4/4 foam cups to check the fit.  I like the size of this cup on me, coverage-wise, but the fit was just a little “pouffy” so I unpicked and shaved off or “flattened out” some of the curve (about 4mm) from the vertical middle seam on each of the cup pieces.  Doing this gave me a really excellent fit; so then I just cut out the fabric cup pieces the same way; shaving off 4mm of curve from the inner edges of each cup piece.  Otherwise I just made them exactly to the pattern, and recycled the bikini hook closure and underwires from that grey bikini top.  That very scant grey bikini top I had made previously, was a size 4 with size 2 cups. It “fitted”, but had not enough coverage!!

dsc_0019With the bottoms; my black fabric is quite thick, almost a little scuba-like and isn’t hugely stretchy, so to be on the safe side I made size 6 bottoms grading out to an 8 at the hips.  I didn’t think  it needed a full lining but I did incorporate a “panty liner” of white stretch fabric,  sandwiched between the front and back in the joining seam and basted it along each leg edge before attaching my swimwear elastic.  I topstitched on each side of all vertical seams 1/8″ out from each side (above).  You can barely even see this with the naked eye actually because of the black-on-black! but I just wanted it to be all finished off nicely and to stylistically fit in with that same topstitching on the bikini top  🙂

Sienna doesn’t like me going in…

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… and is always relieved when I come out ok!  Craig took these pictures and it makes me laugh how I kinda look like an IronMan or something, charging athletically out of the surf, haha!  The water was cold!

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the year of handmade, 9

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above is a small selection of my favourite outfits for the past month, the whole year’s worth can be viewed in my Year of Handmade flickr album, here…

Wellhowyagoingyeahalrightthanksyourself??

OK, so wearing my own clothes and shoes really has become like second nature.  I think I’ve reached the stage in the challenge where it almost feels over, where I’m plodding along with it, can see that light at the end of the tunnel so I’m just kinda wishing it would hurry up and get here!   I’ve started ticking off the days one at a time.  90 days to go!!!!

The stages I go through with every single time-based challenge I’ve ever undertaken are always the same, so my current feelings of meh-ness shouldn’t really be a surprise.  To start with there’s the honeymoon period where I’m all fired up with excitement, followed by a slightly difficult period of adjustment once the initial euphoria is over, then a stage of acceptance where I’m just ok, still enjoying the challenge and coasting happily along on an even keel, then I slowly descend into an impatient restlessness.  Well, a year is a long time.  I’m sure as the end gets even closer I’ll get a small mental boost of excitement at the thought of successfully completing the challenge.  I hope so!

And it will be so interesting to compare how comfortable my old rtw shoes are on my feet compare to the self-made ones I’ve been wearing all year, whether they really are totally amazing or whether I just remember them with rose-tinted spectacles as being more comfortable and better than they are and I’m just hypercritical of my own self-made shoes and feel like every single fault stands out like a whopping huge glaring error that simply must be able to be seen from a mile away, just because, well you know, that’s how makers are.   I have a sneaking suspicion it will be the former, but we’ll have to see.

Speaking of shoes, to be honest, they are never far from my thoughts these days!  😉  my white oxfords are proving to be my current favourites… they go with everything and I think they look quite nice and well made too, if I say so myself.    They even look a bit fashionable.  My new white sandals are proving very useful too.  I think I can even cautiously predict that if there are no disasters I won’t need to make any more shoes.  Although I probably will.  *sigh* you know what they say.  Makers gonna make.  It’s  a weird affliction, and there’s not much point in fighting it.

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white inari

white-inari

named-inariMum and I went shopping together on my birthday; her for my birthday present, and me for her birthday present!  yes, our birthdays are just a few days apart so this is a bit of a tradition.  We went to Fabulous Fabrics.  Haha… well how unexpected!  *wink*

After much lengthy and highly enjoyable hunting, comparisons and consultations with each other, Mum chose this really beautiful fabric for me.  it is thick but very light and airy, has a nubbly, ultra slubby texture and is as pure white as the driven snow.  I absolutely adore it, in fact I’d been salivating over it whenever I saw it, ever since it came in.  Getting a little bit to give me is extra thoughtful of Mum when you take into account that she doesn’t think white really suits me at all.  I kind of agree with her up to a point… however!  I still totally adore it, because I’m a dreadfully contrary soul… no not really, I just have this thing for white clothing, particularly for summer, I love it with a fierce and burning passion…even a white-hot passion!  Mum knows I do, so I thought it pretty sweet that she overrode her feelings to give me something I really love.

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Pattern is the Named patterns Inari tee dress.  This is my “real” Inari, for which I ran up my previously blogged red striped “muslin”! though of course they are both wearable since I found I needed to make only minor changes to the pattern for it to be perfect.

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Something I mentioned in my red-striped inari post, the dress made as per the pattern rides up a bit when you lift your arms, so for this version I made the following simple modification to the sleeves to help reduce the problem:

What I’m doing here is adding width to and reducing the height of the sleeve cap slightly, and doing so without altering the armscye.  Diddling about with both the sleeve and the armscye is possible if you really know what you’re doing #idonot; however can be quite complicated and so I tend to not go there…  I would prefer to substitute an entirely different, tried-and-true sleeve cap and armscye from another pattern if it came to that!!

inari-sleeve-altfrom L to R, top to bottom:

1) Trace the sleeve, and draw a line from the shoulder seam junction mark near the apex of the sleeve cap down to the lower edge, parallel to the grain line.
2) Cut from the lower edge up, leaving a scant few mm at the upper edge still attached.  Pivot the two halves open; I allowed a gap of 4cm (2″) in width, although you could stand to go a little wider, if desired.
3) Tape a piece of paper to fill and fix the gap
4) redraw that lower hem to curve smoothly in a similar line to how the sleeve was previously, and trim
5) Original sleeve and new sleeve, juxtaposed.  You can see how the sleeve is wider; and not seen, but the height of the sleeve cap has been reduced by 2.5cm (1″).
6) Very important!!!  remember to measure the length of the new lower edge and cut the sleeve cuffs accordingly!  They’ll be a bit longer than the sum of the original width and the width of the gap created in step 2.

Demonstration of results (below); The dress does still ride up a little bit however not nearly as much as previously, at right.  To lessen the ride-up even more, you could go even further with widening the sleeve and “flattening” the curve of the sleeve cap even more.  Or alternatively of course, you could always substitute an armscye and sleeve cap from another pattern, at a pinch!

I’m pretty happy with this though  🙂

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Finishing details:

I still didn’t use the neckline facing, but turned in the seam allowance and finished with a piece of bias-cut white linen.  Similarly at the lower hemline, the raw edge inside is bound with bias-cut white linen and then handstitched, this looks nice if anyone happens to catch a glimpse of that back hem inside.. which lets face it, is quite possible because of that low-hanging back edge,  and also eliminates the bulk that you’d get if you turned the fabric under twice.

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Bonus picture, photobombing daughter…

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Fun fact, she made the dress she is wearing here; it is a cute and interesting tank dress with tucking up one side and side split detail on the other, made in blue marl jersey that she bought in Japan.   She’s wearing it over the skirt that I made for her, here.  Honestly, she makes the most lovely things, but doesn’t really share them on any social media.  Occasionally I persuade her to pose in something she’s made, like the time she made this really divinely beautiful ivory cut-out lace top

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Gorgeous, isn’t it?

Details:

Dress; Inari tee dress by Named patterns, white slubby cotton mix
Shoes; designed and made by me, details here
Sandals in top picture;designed and made by me here.    this picture taken on Cable Beach during our recent holiday

and hmmmm, I’m sorry that I’m closing with my dress here… bit of an anticlimax after Cassie’s top!!

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red striped Inari tee dress

Heya’all.  I’ve made this new dress.  Actually, I made it ages ago.  named-inariAnd took most of these photos ages ago too.  Bad lazy blogger!

I wore it recently as my “travelling dress” when we holidayed in Broome, and it was the most AWESOME travelling dress… why? well it’s a loose-fitting, baggy, dress made in a comfy fluffy fleece, so just about the most amazingly comfortable thing EVER! pretty much like wearing a blankie.  At the same time, there’s something about the curved, slightly cocoon-y lines of the dress that I think makes it quite smart, chic and pulled-together.  This is actually my wearable trial of the pattern and I absolutely love it.  I might almost love it more than my “real” version.  Almost.  I actually love that one a bunch too.  To appear here very soon.
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Pattern: So, yeah; the Inari tee dress by Named patterns.  SUCH a popular pattern, and as I now appreciate, for an excellent reason.  It’s terrific.  Simple, yes; and basic, and bordering on a boiled-down-to-the-bare-bones kind of a pattern with just a few very subtle features like that slight cocoon shape, the side seams drifting gently frontwards, the split hem and an up-down front and back hem.  And I love it.  I’m normally attracted to a more complex design for a dress, but this one just hits all the right buttons for me right now.

Fabric; a red and white stripe mid-weight fluffy fleece from Spotlight.  This is the same fabric I used for Tim’s Christmas hoodie and for Kelly’s hoodie too.  Yep, I bought quite a lot! there was a sale… um, yeah *awkward self-justifying of excessive fabric acquisition*   Well, at least I’ve used it all now.  This has been kicking around in the stash since pre-Christmas, since I’d decided it didn’t really suit anyone else in the family.  I think it suits me though!

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My stripes are matched up as perfectly as my obsessive little soul could manage.  I’m smugly and complacently satisfied with how well they turned out…  the only way I know how to achieve this level of stripe matching is to pin each and every junction and go nice and slow.  Tedious but failsafe, and all my stripes here match any which way and everywhere.      *primly pats self on back*

sewuthinkucan asked me on instagram whether I found the high slim sleeves on the design to cause the dress to ride up when you lift your arms up as above: not that I pull this pose all that often and probably will be careful now I’ve seen these pictures! but it does a little.  Not enough to stop me from wearing it!  I think the effect is not too bad because of my fabric being a little stretchy.  However, in my next, “real” version of the pattern, I altered the sleeve so as to successfully fix the problem… and will post details on that in my next Inari post.

inari-side

Alterations;  the most obvious one is inseam side pockets!  Well, of course.  It’s baggy enough and the side hems curve forward slightly to the front, an even more comfortable position for your hands than the true sideline of your body; making inseam pockets an almost foregone conclusion.

inari-neckline

My neckline has neither facings nor bindings; partly because my fabric has too much fluff and loft for bulky extras with incorporated double seam allowances etc, and also because this is basically my wearable muslin for the pattern and I just didn’t want to fuss around with it.  I overlocked the raw edge and simply turned it in once, topstitching in a single line of stitching from the right side.  My fabric is all of thick enough, stretchy enough and stable enough for this to be totally fine.  I did do the sleeve cuffs though.

Details:

Dress; Inari tee dress by Named Clothing, red striped fleece
Shoes; designed and made by me, details here

taken after a plane trip, a week rolled up in a suitcase, another plane trip, and precisely zero ironing.  LOVE.

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strappy white summer sandals (shoes)

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The weather is warming up, and I looked out Le Footwear from last summer and recoiled in horror at the hideously decrepit state of Le Thongs.  I wear my thongs a tonne, and for everything; walking the dog, housework, to the beach where there happens to be quite a lot of that stuff that I now know is like the WORST thing that could ever happen to all handmade footwear… wet sand!

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So I decided to make some new ones.  Behold, Le Result.  Yes, I initially planned for ordinary, regular, garden variety thongs like last years’  but made these instead.  They’re a bit spiffier looking than your average thongs, technically they could fit into the sandal category.  Really though; flat sole, no heel, not much shaping, no closure.  They’re basically glorified thongs.

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Cassie had brought home a sample of echo-panel; a decorative acoustic panel made from recycled PET bottles.  It is a soft, highly compressed fibrous product, very strong and slightly pliable but not “snappable”, with a texture and feel to it very similar to thick wool felt.  I have some of this white, and some grey too.  Anyway I decided to give it a whirl.  For the upper bits I used some white vinyl leftover from my grassy sandals, because white is so useful for summer.  Goes with everything!  Also, being my first trial with the echo panel I didn’t want to risk any of my precious leather, just in case there was some disaster.

And there was, a little bit!

Well, not really, actually they turned out just fine in the end.  It was just that gluing anything to the echo-panel was a pain and a half.  I was using all-purpose PVA glue, and found that the echo-panel just soaked it all up like a sponge.  Like, literally, PVA just disappeared into the “woolly-ness” of it almost without a trace of stickiness to be felt.  Bizarre.

Really, though; any difficulties were entirely my own fault, because it turns out that Cassie had thoughtfully sent me an email with a pdf of info about the product, which clearly states that the adhesive to use is liquid nails.  If I hadn’t so busy making and spent just a little more time keeping up with my correspondence, there wouldn’t have been any problems!  Anyway, I learnt.  I had that aha! moment.  Eventually!

There’s a single layer of the echo-panel inside; I cut the sole shapes with a hacksaw, and neatened up any rough bits and errant “corners” with a Stanley knife.  The echo-panel is beautiful to cut, no doubt about that.

sandal-strapsUppers: this particular vinyl has that very rubbery texture which sticks to the presser foot, leading to horribly uneven stitches.  I usually use a strip of tissue paper to facilitate the vinyl going evenly through the machine; but these strips are really really skinny, wonky stitching would stand out a mile and I wanted to get the topstitching perfectly even in appearance, and you can’t see through tissue paper so it just wasn’t going to cut it this time.  I found though, that by turning the vinyl upside down it all worked out quite smooth and fairly easy to sew.

sandals-closeupA bit of faffing about with strips and I finally settled upon a nice simple, multi-strapped design, cut a denim “inner sole” piece and zigzagged all the strips to this underneath the echo-panel layer, to anchor them securely into position inside the sandal.  This denim inner sole is sandwiched between, and securely glued to the echo-panel above and the cork sole below.  So it’s not visible in the final sandal, also, none of those strips is in danger of pulling out!

sandal-inerI toyed with the idea of leaving the echo-panel showing on the edge, but its woolliness actually picks up every stray hair and twig, and the white shows like every smudge, and I decided a smooth, dark edge would be less of a headache.  More sensible, hides the dirt, you know.  I cut and glued on a nice evenly cut strip of dark denim to the outside edge, pinning in a few strategic places where the denim didn’t instantly stick to the inner curves of the sole.  Those pins can just be seen in the picture below; I sort of thought they would be a temporary measure until the glue dried, however they got pretty firmly glued in themselves and proved impossible to get out! so I’ve left them in there.  After this picture was taken I went back and touched them all up with a dob of black paint so now they’re invisible.  And, then they were further sealed in with several coats of varnish over the denim, so they’re pretty secure.  I don’t think I have to worry that they’ll ever come out  🙂

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Everything was firmly glued into position, and I glued a layer of cork to the bottom.  Three coats of satin varnish on the cork sole and those denim side strips later, and done!!

So yes, they’re quite simple and plain and not far removed from the humble thong, but I think they’re just a wee bit smarter and should go very nicely with all my casual summer stuff.

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a Kelly for Kelly, and one for Cassie too…

img_7318ccf-kelly-anorakO hey-a!  After finishing my own Kelly anorak and having it admired to the nth degree by family members, I made a few more!  a pale grey one for Cassie, and I also made a deep cobalt blue one for Tim’s girlfriend Kelly.  Well, it seemed only right that she should have a “Kelly” too!

 

blue-anorakI quickly snapped that top picture of an unsuspecting Cassie waiting to meet up with me in town before she noticed me heading towards her… I know it’s a bit blurry and not very posed to show off the anorak to modelly perfection, but I just really like it nonetheless… to me it attests that she’s been wearing it a tonne, in fact every single occasion that I’ve seen her in the past three weeks since I finished it and gave it to her she has been wearing it.  There’s no greater compliment to a seamster than that! as well as a testament to the pattern being an absolute style winner.  Kelly’s worn hers each time I’ve seen her since I gave it to her too, but I’ve not taken any pictures of her in it.. will update if she sends me one  🙂

This, taken when I presented it to her three weeks ago, and probably the only time it’s been worn with the sleeves unrolled like this.  It does look a little more wintery like this.  I have to admit, it does look a lot trendier and suits the casual, “heading into summer but still need a layer” look to have the sleeves rolled up.

img_6928Both the anoraks are in a nice weight cotton drill from Spotlight, in fact, all the other bits and pieces are from Spotlight too.  In both anoraks, I added a few inches to the length of the body and modified the pockets to have separate pocket flaps so as to close the pockets; otherwise these are both made up exactly to the pattern.

kelly2This picture below of Kelly’s anorak has been my most “liked” picture on instagram ever! far more than anything I have ever made for myself!  Interesting, no?  Well, I think it is, anyway  😉  I don’t know what that “says”, if anything at all, but maybe something.  Social media is such a funny phenomenon.  Something else also interesting to me is how a person, any person, can have a certain number of followers and the number of “likes” never ever reaches anywhere close to that number.  Honestly, I have no idea about how or why this is so, but it’s just a curious thing.

kelly3I’d got enough of the same white cord for Kelly’s anorak , but since I’d found a nice, perfectly colour-matched blue zip for hers’, and used blue thread for all topstitching and there was no other white anywhere in the jacket; the white cord looked all wrong.  And naturally there’s no such thing as blue cord in the whole of Perth!  so I just had to dye it.  And, when your regular dye-pot is HUGE and there’s just one little length of cord what’s a mad maker to do? but of course, improvise.

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Yeah, I know this looks uber-weird, but determination breeds resourcefulness… and it gave me such a laugh to watch this crazy little dye-pot bubbling on the stove!  I’d tossed a pair of the same white plastic stops as I used for Cassie’s anorak in with the dye bath and it was very satisfying that they dyed up a nice deep blue too.  I’d bought some silver stops just in case but fortunately the blue dye did the job beautifully  🙂
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Different day, still wearing it.  Yep, like I said, she’s worn it literally every single time I’ve seen her in the past three weeks.  I’m calling that a ginormous WIN!

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the year of handmade, 7

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I’m seven months into my Year of 100% Handmade; just five short months to go!! above is a selection of my favourite outfits in the last month, the whole kit and caboodle can be seen in my Year of Handmade flickr album here

Yeah, so I’m still really enjoying the challenge, and of course I absolutely love wearing all my own clothes and shoes.  Although, I am looking forward to warmer weather so I can start wearing some of my newer, spring-y shoes!  I picked a really bad year to be doing this thing though…  we’re officially having the coldest and wettest winter in like thirty years or something. Obviously I’m excited about wearing my own shoes… but when it’s bucketing down with rain?!  which it’s been doing a LOT?!  eeeeek!  It’s a little heart-wrenching, to be honest!  I’m sometimes tempted to whip off my precious handmade babies shoes and just slosh through the puddles and mud in my stockinged feet, shoes clutched protectively to my chest.  I don’t, though.  I stay normally shod, like a regular person, albeit sobbing on the inside and hoping like mad that my dinkie little handmade shoes-ies are going to come out of it ok.

Fortunately, they do.  Surprisingly, everything is holding together just fine.  My trusty winter boots are not just warm but completely waterproof, so yay for that!  So chuffed about those things.  Some of my casual walking shoes… not quite so waterproof, ahem, but shoes do dry out.  I’m still wearing them all!  My paisley oxfords are my go-to, casual “walking shoes”.  They’ve done miles and miles and miles, they’ve been rain-drenched and subsequently dried… they then started to wear quite thin under the balls of my feet.  I just glued new soles onto the bottom.  If I can say one good thing about being forced to wear my shoes in the worst of worst weather; then it is that it’s proved to me that my shoes can take it, and are tougher and not quite so flimsy-whimsy as I feared.  Confidence-boosting stuff  🙂

New soles.  ‘Nother month of milessoles

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pretty duds, plain duds

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Sooo….. I’ve been making underwear, and recently have produced two new sets; one is sorta Oo-la-la while the other is more of the Serviceable variety.

Madame Serviceable? you’re up first!

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“Pretty” is all very well but we all need some plains in our lives too, right?   I still think this set is kinda classy  🙂  Of course I’ve been wearing it a lot! because it’s absolutely awesome under all my winter white sweaters and Tshirts, which I wear such heckkuva lot it’s not even funny.  Rest assured though, I took these photos when it was all fresh and brand new, hot off the machine and not yet been worn.
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Patterns; MakeBra 2610, which is apparently now renamed DL03; so I’m going to start using that tag instead…  and all four pairs of knickers in this post are the Watson briefs.
Materials; light caramel stretchy stuff from Fabulous Fabrics, all other materials are from my MakeBra basic kits.  The foldover elastic on the waist of the knickers is a different type from that I used for the legs, because in between the two basic kits I’ve bought through them, they seem to have changed their supplier or something.  I didn’t have enough of either elastic to do everything on both pairs of briefs, but I had enough for this arrangement.  They’re close enough to identical that I can live with it  😉  The waist elastic is a teeny little bit “shinier” than the leg elastic.  The little ribbon bows are rescued from off of an old lingerie set, also me-made.  Yep, when I toss out an old lingerie set, I usually salvage the little decorative bows off it, because A) it’s not like they get dirty or worn out or ruined or anything through wear, and B) they’re kinda fiddly to make so it’s worth the few seconds it takes to pick them off to keep for a new set.  Waste not want not!

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Madame Oo-la-la…

I bought this neon yellow bra kit from Measure Twice Cut Once… and was rather thrilled that I managed to get not just the bra but two pair of knickers from it too;yay!!!  Stingey economical cutter; yet another of my middle names…

hehe; I finished the set late at night and then just slung it all over Bessie in a hurry.  The next morning it gave me such a laugh to see her “wearing” these pretty frilly nothings all deshabille and “twas a wild-night, eh?” like this!!  😀

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The bra design is my own; I just wanted something flimsy and a bit of whimsical frippery.  In summer I don’t always want or need to wear the foam-lined “Tshirt” bras that I favour in winter, and can just happily live in the more lacey, pretty and fun designs.  Just one more reason to love summer!!!  Anyway, I just draped the lace directly on Bessie and ad-libbed it, and I couldn’t be happier with the result!  I think it turned out really pretty and almost more like a sweet little camisole than a bra.  Don’t worry, it’s definitely going to be worn as a bra, though! even though it’s lined with beige power net it’s still quite see-through.

It’s not a super supportive thing, but realistically I have no need for a super supportive bra anyway.  I still think it’s pretty stable though;  I stitched the clear elastic that came with the kit along each side of the cups; so they won’t stretch out, and stitched a little strip of bias-cut white linen in with the side seams.  I trimmed the linen strip right down before encasing it within the side seam, so it doesn’t show…. and this stabilised the side seams and makes them nice and strong, and they won’t stretch out either.

Inner workings: 1) hand flat-felled seams within the cups and clear elastic stabilising; and 2) linen bias-strip to stabilise the side seams(above)  is then sewn to be enclosed inside the layers (below)

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There was enough of some neon yellow bra elastic to do one pair of knickers around the waist, the other has a strip of the leftover neon yellow lace at the top.  After that, I had to resort to things from my stash; obviously I didn’t have any matching lingerie elastic for the legs and had to resort to white.   I don’t hate the white, but don’t love it either… I kinda wish I had made some attempt to get hold of matching lingerie elastic but I’m an impatient person and really wanted to just get them made and done!

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