Yearly Archives: 2012

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Curtains…

I have been sewing curtains!
This is our central hallway, an area that has been curtain-less since… well, since ever.  It has a very big and long window, which is fabulous for getting plenty of natural light inside.  But it did need something insulative for these really hot hot days of summer.  And we have no carpets in the house, which is perfect for keeping the place cool, but also means that soft furnishings are even more essential to soak up noise and add softness visually to the architecture.
Luckily our taste in home furnishings runs to very unfussy, plain and minimalist.  Even so, I have been steadily and craftily procrastinating for yonks, devising lame reasons as to why I could not get on with it.  High up on my list of excuses was the lack of a curtain rail.  Then about a year ago, my husband put up a curtain rail.  A quietly guilty period followed.  Occasional pleas for curtains were deftly fended off.  I had to be imaginative in this respect, you understand; had to think on my feet.  A lack of fabric was not the problem, since in a whimsically optimistic moment during a Spotlight sale ages ago I had actually purchased enough curtaining fabric for the entire house.  It has been sitting in a big roll underneath the stairs, taunting and mocking me with its whole still-unmade-into-curtains state.
Sewing home wares is not a joy to me, and particularly curtains.  Mostly because they are unwieldy and I have to commandeer the dining room, kick everybody else off and out and carry my machines over and set up on the dining room table since my little bench in the laundry where I usually sew could not possibly cope with the massive swathes of fabric.  Also, curtains are boring.  But while sewing together massively big rectangles in straight seams might seem easy and without any challenges doesn’t mean one should get blase about it… I had a wake-up call when I was distractedly overlocking the fluffy selvedge edge off a vertical joining seam, not paying enough attention, and on checking it later noticed to my horror that, underneath, I had overlocked a massive tuck of curtain into the seam…..  noooo!  But I was incredibly lucky…  The tuck was a narrow one and the fabric in it had avoided being sliced by the overlocker’s knife by a scant millimetre…. seriously!!  I unpicked the tuck and all was well….. phew!  That was a warning… and I sat up and took much better care from then on….!
The curtains are not super fabulous.  They are OK.  I think you can tell by looking at them they were not made with much love…  The best thing about them??? they are finished.

Oh, technical details; each side has two and a half drops of fabric, hems are 10cm and the top is triple pleated…. and no, I did not pose the pussycat.  She happened come over at the right time and I took advantage of the fact that she matched the decor….
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Fashionary

Thank you for those compliments on my sketch in the previous post; but I have to own up right now that I’m not really much of an artist…  I cheated!  ðŸ™‚
My “artistry” is all thanks to the Fashionary….

I first heard of the Fashionary about two years ago and immediately got one for myself and one for Cassie that Christmas (and posted about here).  I bought them here; and if you click on that link you can see how other truly artistic people are producing absolutely beautiful fashion drawings like mini works of art in their Fashionarys, compared to my very basic sketches depicting my prosaic little sewing plans in a practical manner without frills nor spills.  That is pretty much why I do not usually post my pictures of my own rather ordinary sketches up here….
But I still use it to mock up most of my ideas before they get made, and I looove to play with it!
Why?
well first and foremost, it is fun!  It’s like being in kindergarten all over again, except in a grown-up and (ahem) acceptably adult format….  It caters to that wannabe fashion designer inside of me, yet dispenses with that pesky requirement to have any actual drawing talent…  
Since it is so easy!  Just like doing dot-to-dot drawings when you were a teeny kiddy…
Most of the notebook comprises pages of these templates of figures; 3 to each single page.  You can get a female one or a male one.  They are drawn in with very faint red dots; like so…
and since I realise they are very faintly drawn in and you might not be able to see them very well, I have pencilled one in to show it off better…

When a new sewing plan or outfit or something starts to transpire in my head, or maybe if I am toying with ideas, then it is sketching time, and even better; colouring-in time…
Here’s one I prepared earlier  ðŸ™‚  (it’s unrecognisable, but the one on the left is supposed to be my Sunset maxi-dress, lol!)

And a hint of autumnal things to come  ðŸ˜‰

Cassie, a far more well-organised person than her mother, also keeps samples of the fabrics along with her sketches, and actually remembers to take it shopping with her.  This is an excellent idea that I really must adopt too… would take the guesswork out of thread and button matching…

I find my Fashionary useful to keep me on the straight and narrow, to keep me to my fabric and sewing “promises” to myself if you like.  The act of drawing up my design sort of commits me to it.  Like, there it is all drawn up and coloured in, now I have to make it happen!
Once I’ve completed sewing the garment I put a little tick beside it, thus satisfying my list-keeping-and-ticking-things-off tendencies.
And, did I mention it is fun?

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White, with a navy grid

I’ve made a new little top….   well, just a summer version of a T-shirt really, from scraps, the leftovers from this shirt.  Constructively finishing off another small wad of fabric from my stash.  Smug self back-patting ensues.
This stuff is pretty good top/blouse/shirt fabric.  It is uncrushable and beautifully light.  Sam has been wearing his shirt stacks.  And luckily has no neuroses about his mother having a garment in the same fabric, although for both our sakes I have undertaken to only wear it if he’s not wearing his.
We do have some pride.  ðŸ™‚
I had dreamed that this top would be cut on the bias, with those gridlines laying diagonally across the design, and to have little kimono/cap sleeves, like my preliminary sketch below.  I thought it would look pretty cool like that, and had been thinking about it long enough that my heart was virtually set on it.  But cutting on the bias is such a fabric hog, demanding way more than I actually had and so my plans were sadly not to be….  Visiting the fabric store to purchase just a leeettle bit more to indulge myself was pretty tempting as the fabric was not price-y, and still plentifully stocked.  But I had to admit that doing so would utterly defeat any aspirations to green-dom.  sigh
So …
I used the pattern for top “a” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, a very simple design that really does use a very tiny amount of fabric.  In its simplest pared-back form this is a fab basic little top pattern.  I grudgingly economically cut the pieces out on the straight…. which might not look as cool as my original idea, but is very effective for stash busting  ðŸ™‚  And it is a good useful and casz little summer top.
The seams are all French seams.  It doesn’t have any closure but can just be pulled on over my head.  I left off the stipulated bias finish to the armholes and neckline, and instead made three sort of tubes or funnels to finish the apertures off.  The sleeve tubes are just single fabric width, and sewn into the armholes and finished with a little hem, and the neckline tube is doubled over, and slipstitched invisibly down on the inside. 

Details:
Top; modified top “a” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like by Natsuno Hiraiwa, in navy and white check stuff.  I have made this pattern up twice before, here and here….
Skirt; Vogue 1248, white cotton voile, details and my review of this pattern here
Thongs; Mountain Design

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An casual edging for knits

I used this great edging for some of my latest T-shirts.  This is a nice casual look for thin floppy knits that don’t fray very much.  It works really well on those fabrics that want to curl up spontaneously… and it’s always a good idea to listen to what the fabric wants to do and work with it rather than struggling to force it into submission…
Firstly, when you cut out the sleeves, cut them about 2.5cm longer than you want, and then slice off this extra length.  
(Oh, for the neckline, you have to measure the finished length of the edge of your neckline, and cut out a 2.5cm width strip (with the length going the stretchy way, natch) the same length, plus 2cm for seaming.  I didn’t take any photos of the neckline finishing, sorry…. maybe next time 🙂 but it’s essentially the same process from here on)

With right sides together, sew the sleeve seam, and the seam of the strip to form a ring.

Take your sleeve edge strip and fold it wrong sides together in half along its long length, over and enclosing the raw lower edge of the sleeve.

Pin in place.

Using a twin needle on your machine, stitch the strip down, keeping the stitching a perfectly even length from the folded edge.

So, you end up with this, which doesn’t look particularly… wow.  In its ironed, just-been-neatly-sewn state.  But wait…

…after washing, the raw edge of the knit will curl up nicely, creating a tight little ridge over the stitching.

Then I dyed the T-shirt using iDye in Crimson, which throws the blue stitching into focus.  Of course, if you don’t want contrasting top-stitching to show up as a feature on your garment; you must choose a thread colour that is going to blend in with your final colour after dyeing, as I did for my “bat” shirt.  In that case, I top-stitched with a black thread, since in that design I wanted the top-stitching to blend in, and the shirt was going to become a deep deep brown.  But in this case I like the tiny accent of blue on an otherwise very plain shirt.  And the way the raw edge of the edging has curled up and over the lower row of stitching is very pleasing.  I think it looks a little bit like piping.

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Some basics…

Nothing in this post is write-home-about exciting, but I have been laying down some handy layering basics for the cooler days that will be coming up …. sometime? …  ðŸ™‚  I’m thinking ahead, to autumn.  Planning, you know.  Being organised   hehehe 🙂

Remember this dress?  I put it on recently and my husband announced kindly but firmly that he thought it was weird.  His words sounded its death knell.  I have put this on once or twice since I made it and each time felt sorta… well yes, now you mention it, weird is exactly the right word.  I finally acknowledged that the fabric was wrong for the design, too thick and heavy and with too much body to drape gracefully enough.
My bad.  I now know that with a lot of the Pattern Magic 3 designs you do need reeeeally drape-y fabric (hmmm, I think I’ve said that before; once or twice, or ten times…) On the plus side I still like the bodice part of the dress and I had also used the leftovers of the same fabric to make a successful little T-shirt sooooo;
bit of butchery re-fashioning later…

and now we have…
I added waist bands and armbands.

and…

and…

not from the dress, but squeezed from the fabric leftovers …

T-shirt 1: I added waist bands and armbands to the bodice of the dress.
T-shirt 2: dyed with 1/4 tsp iDye in Crimson.  I’m very happy with this Tshirt, both its shape and the lovely cranberry colour.
T-shirt 3: dyed along with the “bat” Tshirt in iDye in Brown, then in the leftovers of the iDye Crimson dye-bath of T-shirt 2.  I love the tawny port colour it turned out, but there’s something “funny” about the proportions.  I wish now I had scooped the neckline a little more than I did.  Maybe this will just be an “underneath cardis and jumpers” kind of a Tshirt…
Tshirt 4: the first T-shirt made from the leftovers after the dress, using the same fabric and the same pattern as these other T-shirts, and it hasn’t been shown it here before….  It has a banded neckline and sleeve bands, and a turned up, hand-stitched hem.

I also made this using the last leftovers of bright cobalt blue fabric (same as the “bat” shirt) and it went into the iDye Crimson dye-bath simultaneously with the cranberry T-shirt 2 above.  I love the deep royal purple colour that it is now; will layer well with the jewel tones of the other T-shirts for some groovy colourful winter layering, when the time comes  ðŸ™‚   The texture of that cheap n’ cheerful fabric has to be one of my favourite knits ever.  I just wish it had come in ivory, rather than that intense blue colour.  Just think of the dyeing possibilities.  They would have been infinite  ðŸ˜€

Apart from the first Tshirt pictured, which is the original bodice of the dress on p18 of Pattern Magic 3 by Tomoko Nakamichi, the others are made up using the pattern formerly known as Burdastyle 06/2011, 120 first written about here.  In order to get a nice fit that pattern has been shaved and sliced and diced and completely and utterly altered until each and every seam-line is different from the original.  As well, I don’t use the neckline facing pieces at all.  As for the zip?? well forgetaboutit ….So I guess it can’t lay claim to being Burdastyle 06/2011, 120 anymore.
But my carved-up version is a great fitting T-shirt pattern now…  ðŸ˜€  Yay for that!

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Top; Gone a bit Batty

My latest project.  Do you like the name?  I know, right?  I could get a job at Anthropologie, thinking up delightfully poetic tag-lines for the clothing, for sure.  I am sometimes capable of romanticism, and dreaming up evocative monikers, conjuring up a magical wonderland way of thinking and engaging the senses in a positive way.  I could have gone with something along the lines of Black Magic, or Chocolate Swirl or Liquorice Twist.  Nicer, yes?  But a twisted sense of humour prevents me from behaving all “delightful” all the time.
Besides, have a look at it, spread out on the lawn, recovering from its dye-job.  Decidedly bat-like, I think.

So, this is one variant of the design from p47 of Pattern Magic 3, by Tomoko Nakamichi.  Like much of Pattern Magic 3 so far, I thought this a very easy project.  My thoughts with this one, a very drape-y knit is essential to allow the pointy bits to flop down into each other attractively; and when you put it on you have to pull and fold the layers to sit just so or it can look a bit weird.
Side views:

It started out its life this colour below, and then subjected to 1/4 tsp iDye, in Brown.  I initially bought 2m of this brilliant blue fabric which as well as being very cheap had the added advantages of being very light, very drape-y and 100% cotton.  However I only have room in my life for one bright blue top and so dyeing was always on the cards for anything made out of the leftovers. 

And yes, I have been doing a lot of dyeing lately.  Actually, to say I have run a dyeing marathon would be no exaggeration.  I’ve been on a fair dinkum dyeing bender!!
But results of the exciting dye-fest will have to wait until pictorial evidence has been collected.  You have been warned…
I finished the neckline and armholes by simple turning under the raw edge and topstitching with a twin needle.  This is a great and very easy finish for knits, not as polished a finish as the banded edge, but the perfect choice for something like this top where bands would have visually been too much detail on a top that is already chocka with textural detail.  Those little shark fins at the hips are as much detail as the eye can take in my opinion, and the plainer the rest of the garment the better.

Details:
Top; from Pattern Magic 3 by Tomoko Nakamichi, bright cobalt blue cotton jersey dyed with iDye in Brown
Shorts; modified Burda 7723, of yellow embroidered cotton, details here
Sandals; Misano, from MarieClaire shoes

Over-exposed and super highlight-ed to show up the folds better… and doesn’t this make the sky look amaaazing??

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Tracing through the years

I have a small collection of Burda magazines from the late 70’s and early 80’s.  These were bought new back then by my mother for her own use and I have them now for safe-keeping.  I loved looking through these magazines, and still do!  These were absolutely fascinating to my younger self, and part of the inspiration behind my decision to sew for myself.  Along with, naturally, my mother herself; hugely influential to my creative self.  A very inspiring lady who was always either spinning, weaving, dyeing, knitting, sewing, or all of the above; magnificent creations for her own wardrobe.  And still does today!
Something that interests me now is that the very garments that I loved the most back then are still my same favourites today.  What does that say about me?  That my tastes have not changed much?  I would like to think I am so happily consistent and not all over the place like a dog’s dinner which is how I sometimes feel sums up my tastes…  Looking closely at my chosen favourites I can see I’m attracted to a simplicity of line, an absence of clutter in the silhouette, and a certain… something else.  I guess what that nebulous “something” is; is my “style” that I am still trying to define today.  I did notice that something made up in neutral colours and particularly in white, always attracts my attention, and is almost guaranteed to be one of my long-term “favourites”; LOL!  That predilection has not changed!
Back then, the patterns came in one size, or two if you were lucky.  The patterns did not come in all sizes, nested together like they do today.  So, say one might see a dress that one simply had to have.  Looking at the small print, one would then either be transported with joy to discover that it was indeed blessedly in one’s own size, or at least close enough to enable one to fudge-fit it to oneself; oh happy day!  One the other hand, one might be plunged into doom to see that the one dress you loved the most was only available five sizes too big.  Darn!
Another thing; the pattern sheets themselves.  You think today’s Burdastyle patterns are difficult to trace?  Take a look at this!

That is a pattern sheet from the May, 1977 issue.  Compared to Burdastyle magazine today.  05/2010, to be more accurate…

I’ve put my tape measure in there for an idea of scale….
I think we’ve got it easy today, girls!
Just for fun, here are some of those 70’s styles.  I would welcome these two garments happily into my wardrobe.

Some other lovelies from the Spring/Summer 1977 issue…

Finally, I have decided to go ahead with putting out here my wardrobe addition costs, as outlined here.  So, completing my summary for January…  I think doing a monthly overview will be better than giving a cost each time… a better distribution  ðŸ™‚

My Darling Clementine top
Fabric $34.60 (includes a portion of the shipping cost)
Pattern; Vogue 1247, first time used $7.00
Thread; $3.20
Total cost: $44.80
A Sludgy Little Skirt
Fabric; all leftovers
Pattern; Vogue 1247 used before
Zip; $1.00
Dye; $7.77 (bought during Spotlight’s 40% off sale)
Total cost: $8.77

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A sludgy little skirt

Hooo boy.  We are having an insane heatwave right now… been 37C or above for over a week now.  Australia Day was 42C, phew…  We all spent the entire day in bathers, in and out of the pool.  The fireworks teetered on being cancelled because of the fire risk, but luckily at the last minute some clouds rolled in, the temps dropped and we even got a few fat raindrops!  And then the fireworks competed with an amazing lightning display (pictured below)  Today is supposed to be another 42C-er, so I am in my bathers … again!
But unable to resist a smidge of sewing, as can be seen.  And dyeing.
I’ve made a skirt.  Now, it probably doesn’t look very exciting, but I know this will be a wardrobe staple that I will wear into the ground….  You see, part of building up a wardrobe that is well-suited to each individual woman, that you enjoy wearing and is versatile and comfortable, is recognising items of clothing that are indispensable for you and your own particular style.  For a while now I’ve been wanting to replace an item that I determined long ago is one of my own indispensables; a short straight sludgy coloured skirt.  I was pretty sad when my old khaki corduroy one finally died, it got all stretched out around the waist in an ill-fitting and ugly way, and for the last six months of its life I could only wear it with long shirts hanging out over the top, which was an utterly ridiculous state of affairs, so I finally said goodbye to it.  I tried to move on, do without it, but eventually conceded I really wanted another skirt just about exactly like that old one, and soon!
That skirt was thisclose to perfect, but of course a skirt does not qualify as actually perfect in my opinion unless it has pockets.  When I checked out the line drawing of the skirt in Vogue 1247; I was pretty excited … Little skirt; check!  Plain and basic; check!  Pockets; check AND check!!!!  These are all the features adding up to the perfect little skirt in my book…  and it also has a waistband, something I am currently into in my skirts…. WIN!
I made the skirt from purple stretchy denim, the leftovers from my plum jeans here.  The waistband is black corduroy, with its wrong non-fluffy side out, leftovers from these jeans, and instead of folding the waistband in half so it is self-faced as suggested in the pattern, I pieced the waistband in half horizontally with a lightweight cotton (shot cotton in Ice, also a leftover) to reduce bulk around the waist…  just a personal preference.  The pockets are lined with the same lightweight cotton.

The waistband is a contrasting black; for the following reason….  usually I add a bit of length to my pattern pieces, but I was working with scraps here and could only cut all my purple skirt pieces to their pattern-stipulated length… and this skirt is short!  Now, I like my skirts short it is true, but this one was going to be really short… even by my standards.   So I didn’t hem, but instead enclosed the lower raw edge of the skirt in the same black bias binding used for the HongKong finishes on all the other raw edges inside the skirt.   And cut a new black waistband, so as to have the colour of that black edge picked up somewhere else in the garment.
The HongKong seaming does constitute part of the pattern instructions and there is a pattern piece to aid you in constructing your binding.  I dutifully cut this out and make up the continuous bias binding as instructed.  However it was too skinny to work effectively on my thick denim fabric, so I ended up cutting a whole new new lot of 50% wider bias binding in black quilting cotton.  Which means I have 6.5m of skinny off-white bias binding now, to use in some other project  ðŸ™‚

I dyed the finished skirt using 1/4 tsp of iDye in Brown.  I’m very happy with this final colour.  It is very satisfyingly muddy and richly sludge-y, wouldn’t you say?  I would describe it as eggplant, rather than either brown or purple.  A sort of deep n’ dirty purple, that reads as a strong chocolate brown on first sight, but still recognisably has that warm purple-y base underneath when you look at it more closely.
(at left: front, before dyeing, at right; the back after dyeing)

Inside the skirt: at left; the front, before dyeing, and see the pale blue waistband facing? and at right, the back view after dyeing the skirt… that 100% cotton waistband really picked up the brown dye beautifully compared to the denim, which having some synthetic elastane in it didn’t pick up the colour quite as vividly….

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247, purple stretch denim and black corduroy waistband; dyed with iDye in Brown
Top; top “a” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like by Natsuno Hiraiwa, of white cotton, details here
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, from Hobbs shoes, details here

Pattern Description:
Short straight skirt with deep front pockets set in a horizontal seam.
Pattern Sizing:
6-12; I cut the size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished  sewing it?
Yes, except that mine is 5cm longer because I did not hem, but finished the raw lower edge with black bias binding.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I just love this skirt pattern; the slight A-line shape with a minimal flare, and the pockets most of all.  The smaller pattern pieces also enable you to make use of smaller leftover pieces of fabric, which is a big plus… 
I like the HongKong seaming in the skirt and the French seaming in the top; that the instructions are encouraging users to finish their garment to high standards.
The skirt is very short as it is, but that is the easiest thing to alter in a skirt pattern…
Fabric Used:
Medium-weight stretch denim, corduroy waistband, lightweight cotton for the waistband and pocket facings, quilting cotton for the bias binding.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I finished the lower raw edge with bias binding instead of hemming; this skirt is short!  In stead of the self-faced waistband, I pieced the waistband horizontally in two halves; the outer half is the fashion fabric and the facing half a thin lightweight cotton.  I thought this a better choice to face the thicker denim I chose for the skirt fabric.  Likewise the pockets are lined in lightweight cotton.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I will definitely sew this again sometime!  Probably lengthened… 🙂
 Conclusion:
A short straight fitted skirt, AND with deep pockets?  it doesn’t get much better than that!

For interest: the lightning vs. fireworks over Perth on Australia Day…

photo by Matt Titmanis; source
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