Monthly Archives: June 2017

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more liberty lingerie… and why do I make my own?

On the “news” * the other night they had a little segment where Kmart introduced their new range of $5 bras, which is insanely cheap… and all over again I got to thinking about why I make my own in the face of the ever plummeting prices of rtw clothing.    See, a lot of people I know think I’m completely bonkers (source; they tell me)  for making my own when it’s so cheap to buy a perfectly pretty and well-made bra, and without the angst of sourcing all your own bits and pieces and spending the few hours it takes to put it all together.

* “News” in inverted commas… because some of our local news programmes go for a full hour here while at the same time this is a city where basically nothing ever happens.  The world news, or REAL news, is raced through in about ten minutes; local news might be another one or two minutes, tops, and usually is something like “the Mayor in hot water because she tried to claim her wardrobe as a work expense!”; the twenty minute sports section is always lengthily and disproportionately weighted towards Aussie rules football and stats and is highly detailed, let’s not even go there! ; the weather is a brief high point; and the rest of it is thinly disguised ads.  The Kmart bra story definitely fell into the category of thinly disguised ad.

So, summarising into a neat and tidy little list of pros and cons…

CONS

  •  it’s relatively expensive to make your own.  During my year where I added up how much I spent on my totally handmade wardrobe, I discovered that bras and undies were amongst the priciest of things to make yourself.  Sure, you’re only using teeny pieces of fabric and/or lace, but once you include elastics, hook and eyes, rings and sliders, and even the optional underwires, underwire casing and foam paddings… well it adds up pretty quick!
  • it’s fiddly
  • if you buying a rtw bra, you can reject any one that is not completely perfect and just keep trying on different ones until you find The One… when you’re making your own it takes time and maybe even a few less-than-satisfactory bras before you work out the perfect fit for you with any given pattern.
  • it can be difficult if not impossible to find colour-matching bits and pieces.  You can dye your own (more fiddle) or settle for good old boring black, white or beige.  Kind people may give you their old colourful bras from which you can harvest the colourful bits.. however in my experience the hooks and eyes closure at the back which is the very hardest bit to source in different colours is usually the very first bit to look hideously wrenched and worn out, and is not worth saving.

PROS

  • you can be creative… express yoself!!
  •  I feel a lot better about myself and my wardrobe if it is my own labour being poured into it, rather than someone else who is being grossly underpaid for doing so.  Many years ago when I took my Lifetime Pledge in Wardrobe Refashion, I thought long and hard at the time about doing so… and my reason has remained unchanged… I love fashion, I love the artistry and creativity and self-expressiveness of it, but I can only live with myself by taking that ethical stance
  • it’s actually kinda fun
  • it’s fiddly.  Yes, I also claimed this as a “con” but I’m the kinda loon who actually thoroughly enjoys doing detailed and fiddly things.
  • I like that my free time is spent doing something productive and useful… and there’s not much more productive and useful than making your own consumables.  Plus, last but certainly not least:
  • I LOVE sewing with a weird and totally unreasonable passion.  Perhaps that should have been number one on the list.

Well, anyway, there it is, annoyingly inconclusive.  I suppose what I’m saying is that as long as I’m able, I’ll probably continue to make my own, while questioning my own sanity at the same time.  Definitely bonkers.

Oh, and yes, I made a new lingerie set… ta da!

 

Fabric; Liberty cotton Clifton jersey Josephine’s Garden in the Pink colourway …  this is the other piece of liberty cotton jersey that I bought from the Fabric Store in Melbourne during my weekend away there with Mum, Cassie and Tiffany… and now I’ve made up all my Liberty and have NONE LEFT! (sob)  Knicker elastic, and the white cotton jersey used for lining from Spotlight.   The pink ribbon that I used to make the little decorative bows, white rings and sliders, and the bra hook and eye thingie were all from Homecraft Textiles.

Pattern; both bra and the two identical pairs of matching knickers are the Watson by Cloth Habit… with a few variations of my own, namely:

1) the front crotch seam has been eliminated from the knickers, as per usual.

2)  I really like the shape of the Watson bra pattern, however the raw edges showing inside has always been a problem for me… anyway I made this one so the bra cups + front band are fully lined and with NO raw edges showing on the inside.  My method is outlined below.

Stitch the side seams…

then stitch the cup into the cradle curve… taking care to leave free the narrow upper seam allowance of the cup at the centre front

Wrong sides together, stitch the cup lining to the cup/cradle seam allowance, cradle side up so you are stitching along the previous stitching line.  After this, fold out and twist the shell and lining cup pieces so they are right sides together and stitch the upper, inner-front cup seam with a narrow seam allowance. (no picture of this, sorry!)

Pin cradle lining right side to the seam allowance of the existing cup/cradle seam allowance, and stitch together with the shell pieces uppermost, so you are stitching over the previous stitching. Trim and grade seam allowances…

Now, take the cradle lining and twist it round so you can pin the side seam edge to the outside of the bra side seam… i.e. the right side of the cradle lining is up against the wrong side of the bra back piece.  Holding the pinned seam with the shell fabric uppermost, and taking care not to catch any other bits of fabric in with the stitching, stitch along the previous side seam stitching.

Trim and grade seam allowances…

Looking pretty neat and tidy already!

Attach the upper and lower elastics as per usual, and it’s all perfectly clean and neat in there with absolutely no exposed raw edges…  *satisfied sigh*

 

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white Charlie caftan

Seems like aaaages since I was at the beach for these photos! and I can remember it was a glorious 30C that day.  Right now it’s still sunny but getting pretty nippy here in Perth; and joyously frolicking in the surf in a tiny little dress is kinda out of the question.  SO GLAD I was super-organised and pre-did my little photo shoot!  Anyway, here is this cute and very summery little dress I made a few months ago.

Pattern; the Charlie caftan, designed by Heather of Closet Case patterns, and named after the ultra-cool Charlie, of Noble & Daughter.  It comes in a shortie-short length like this, or you can make it as a glamorous maxi with a titillating thigh slit, so you can flash a little bit of leg in a breezily sexy way while shimmering along poolside in your wide-brimmed hat, oversized sunnies and of course an umbrella-ed cocktail in hand.  Me not being the least bit glamorous, I opted for the mini version and scampering in the surf, no cocktail (sob)  You probably can’t even tell, but I’m wearing it over my black Sophie bikini too.  Closet Case patterns, head to toe!

I must say, it’s an extremely cute little design and also a super quick and easy pattern to whip up.  And it has super deep, therefore by definition awesome, pockets…  easily deep enough to hold your sunnies, car keys and phone while you’re at the beach.  I made view A with the front pleats, and I put in the tie as well since I fancied being able to tie it up and give it a bit of a waist.  I’m still undecided as to whether I prefer it tied or with no tie!  tying it up does make the pleats “pop out” a bit over your tummy, but on the other hand I like it with a defined waist as well… the verdict is still out on that one…  probably I should have made the gathered version!  In the meantime, I took some pictures both tied up, and untied.

Fabric; a gooooorgeous linen/cotton mix from Spotlight.  I bought quite a lot of this when I spotted it, hehehe.  I mentioned it previously when I used it to make the lining for my lace “Brazilian” top too…   I’m actually thinking of doing a spot of appliqué/embroidery on my caftan, snazzy-ing it up a bit.  Still undecided about that one too.  AAAGH I’m so indecisive!

Details:

Dress; Closet Case patterns Charlie caftan, white cotton/linen
Bikini (under); Closet Case patterns Sophie swimsuit, black swimsuit fabric

location; Bunker Bay, Western Australia

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little floral dress; donna karan for vogue

I’ve made this new dress! every year my dear friends give me a Fabulous Fabrics voucher for my birthday… it’s taken me a little while but I finally got around to spending it and making my birthday dress!

Pattern; Vogue 1351, this is my third version of this pattern, my first one is here and my second here.  This time I cut the skirt a bit more flared and actually it was going to be a lot longer to start with too, it was going to be a midi-ankle length dress, but when I tried it on for hemming I decided this particular small-scale floral was not right for a midi-length.  It felt like a big walking cliche, to be honest, as if it was the “before” dress in an op-shop refashion challenge, and I was about to lop a foot off the bottom and go “TA DA!!” LOOK HOW AMAZING IS THIS REFASHION GUYS!!! FRUMP TO FAB IN JUST FIVE MINUTES!!!

Actually, I think the longer the length of a dress, the bigger the scale and more overblown the print needs to be… and a smaller scale print really looks best in a shorter dress.  Also Craig gave a big thumbs up to the shorter length, although that is pretty much ALWAYS his response, so much so that I don’t know why I bother asking…  Anyway, I preferred the shorter length too, which I should say is of course the “right” length!

Fabric; floral chiffon, lined with a warm, peachy/pale-pink crepe, both from Fabulous Fabrics.  I’d tried a few different colours underneath the floral – because it is completely sheer the colour of the lining made a huge difference; white, ivory, and even cream were all too “cold”… I almost went for pale yellow which was quite warm and nice but in the end I settled on this lovely pale peachy-pink.  Pink gave an rosy warm glowing light to it;  just exactly what I want for winter  🙂  I know a chiffon dress seems a strange thing to make for winter, but this dark rich floral just seemed to my mind to be very right for the season, and is what I want to wear right now.

I stitched French seams on all areas of the chiffon, and the seam allowances of the pink crepe lining are overlocked to finish…

 triple-stitched baby-hems for both the shell and the lining…  as described in my tutorial here

… the only difficult bit I had was putting the pale pink invisible zip into the chiffon.  It is tissue thin, and so wouldn’t be able to provide any support for the zip, so I applied thin strips of iron-on interfacing along the stitching lines of the zip, extending it by about an inch either end and was super careful when stitching.

I thought I’d show my lining slip-stitched to the zip tape inside… I always stay-stitch a three-sided “box” at the lower edge of the seam where it will be sewn to the lower edge of the zip, snip into the corners, press the seam allowances under, and stitch along the stitches… this is something the patterns NEVER tell you, but I think they really should, because it’s so much better.  The lining sits a lot flatter and smoother, the stay-stitching gives a little bit of reinforcement to the area, and the squared-off slit really does make a visible difference to how invisibly the zip seam appears in the finished garment, especially in a very thin fabric like this.  Haha, I know that “visible difference to how invisibly etc” sounds like an oxymoron, but you know what I mean!

I wore it for the first time today!   along with my scarlet Miette cardigan, to show it to my lovely girlfriends who had given me the voucher… 🙂

Details:

Dress; Vogue 1351, floral chiffon, crepe lining
Cardigan; the free Miette pattern by Andi Satterlund, all details on my yarn and alterations to the pattern here
Tights; voodoo
Shoes; Vitullimoda, bought in Melbourne during my holiday over there with Mum and Cassie 🙂

location; Kings Park, Perth, Western Australia

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liberty lingerie

I’ve made some new lingerie… arranged here ever so prettily with some sweet little blooms gathered from my garden and scattered just so… doesn’t it look nice?

Patterns; ye olde favourites… MakeBra 2610 for le brassiere, and the two sets of matching knickers are the cloth habit Watson briefs modified so as to remove that awful front crotch seam.  I’d bought 1.5m of the bra strap elastic, which turned out to be enough to make the shoulder straps as double straps.  I’ve seen this done on a few of the more high end rtw bras around and I likey! so it was good I had enough to have a go at it!

Fabric; I bought this Liberty jersey from the Fabric Store in Melbourne, (NOT an affiliate link, just there for courtesy) during my trip away there with Mum, Cassie and Tiffany in March; such a fun trip with much shopping and chatting in a girly way there together.  It is called Scilly Flora, in pink, and I immediately fell in love with its playfully naif flowers in a bright and cheerful kaleidoscope of red/pink/orange/mauve /green.  Apparently it’s a reworking of a child’s hand-drawing, which is a really sweet idea.

 

White cotton jersey for the knicker lining, the cup foam is from my MakeBra basic black kit, still got lots of that left, yay! and I got the electric blue foldover elastic, bra straps and the red underbust elastic from Homecraft Textiles in Vic Park; really, they have the most wonderful and amazing range of elastics EVER!!  I’m always blown away a bit every time I go in there.  Sometimes I wish I could justify making a new set of undies every week, just so I can utilise all the colours they have there… but lately I’m aiming to only replace things as they wear out now… as in, one thing out, then a new thing in.  A little restraint, please.  Oh, I also got the black rings and sliders and the black hook and eye thing from there too.

It was a little bit of a pain changing threads a million times while making this set; I switched between blue, red, black and white threads AND bobbin threads MULTIPLE times, like I’m not even kidding I spent more time switching threads in my machine than I spent actually sewing… seriously!  But I think it looks really pretty, and I love it.  My underwear drawer has never looked so colourful!

 

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chilli-red paprika jade skirt

Oh hello, fellow needle-wielders!

Recently I decided I wanted, nay needed, a new colourful Jade mini-skirt; since my purple one was tragically taken too soon… *a minute’s silence, please*

Well, ta da!

I’d gone back to Knitwit in search of the same purple knit… why the same colour? perhaps because I’m a boring unoriginal creature of habit? but unfortunately they had sold out of the purple.  So I chose this chilli-red instead.  Rather nice, hmmm?

Every time I try to take any pictures in the full-on blasting sun, I regret it… however this does show off the lovely vibrant fiery-ness of this intense red rather well

For the lining, I cutup an old black Tshirt, one of Sam’s toss-outs, it’s quite a nice, sturdy, not-very stretchy and robust 100% cotton black knit, so should work really well as a lining. .  I’d given some thought into the lining this time, since the tragedy of too-much stretchiness of the purple one… that was a 100% polyester whereas my other stretch mini skirt, my self-lined charcoal one is a cotton jersey, quite stiffish with only a one-way stretch and that is holding up very nicely.  The black Tshirt fabric I used for this is very like that…

obligatory lining picture is pretty boring, sorry

With this version, I fitted and reinforced the waistband with stretch interfacing so it is quite firm and minimally flexible…

… AND put in an exposed black/brass jeans zip into this skirt.. I’m hoping these two factors will help keep that waistband firm and strong, so it suffers minimal stretching out and extend the life of the skirt…  Just for looksie’s alone, I just love the brassy glint of the zip, I think it looks really cool.

Going from my past jade skirt AND my past red skirt experiences, I KNOW I’m going to wear this a metric tonne.  Can’t wait to mix and match this  one to bits!

Details:

Skirt; Paprika patterns Jade skirt, red silk/linen knit from KnitWit
Top; the twist top from Pattern Magic, in ivory ponte also from KnitWit, details here
Tights; my own design, black polyester stretch from Spotlight, details here and my tutorial on how to make your own custom tights pattern here
Boots; made by me and my own design, all details here

location; the bush in south western Western Australia

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…getting a Brazilian…

Olá!

Soooo, I mentioned my brother’s BIG birthday? well to go with it he had a BIG birthday bash! with a Brazilian theme.  I stupidly procrastinated about my costume, ended up going shopping for fabric the day before the party and had to cut n’ sew like a madman to get it done on time. #sewingmachineonfullblast

I’d first googled “Brazilian women” and what came up was nothing but women in bikinis.  NO.  Even if this were the very height of summer… still no.  So then I googled Brazil women’s national costume, and oh yes, that’s more like it!

These lovely ladies are wearing the traditional dress for Bahian women, and I thought the white lace and broderie anglaise tops and headscarves and full, brightly coloured skirts so very lovely.  So I set about making something like that…

For simple yet voluminous skirt that you can whip up quickly, you can’t go past a circle skirt… I bought 4m of red polyester taffeta from the $4 table at Spotlight… it is very stiff and very silk dupion like and I knew it would stick out nicely with a good amount of volume.  I cut out my circle skirt and divided the remainder to make a waist sash and a scarf for part of my headgear.  The skirt is a full 2m in diameter, and I thought about making it rush rush rush but nah. I just can’t do that sort of thing, even in a costume.  So it’s got a proper interfaced waistband, and closes with an invisible zip and a press stud in the waistband.  Hehe, while I was making my costume, Tim sent around a snapchat re it being National Doughnut Day, and I was like HA!  I’m fitting right in!  This is MY kind of doughnut!!

Oh, I have a little tip!  I usually hand-slipstich the ends of my invisible zips to the seam allowance with a few quick stitches, but lately I’ve taken to just doing a few quick back-and-forths on the sewing machine.  It’s so much quicker since you’re not having to thread a needle, and actually more stable too.

Speaking of rush rush, I admit I did not hem that giant circle skirt… it’s just overlocked along the edge there!  I figure that if/when I ever decide to wear it “for realz” then I’ll go to the effort and hem it properly.  Probably seems funny that I did the waistband properly when it’s not even “seen” in my costume, whereas the hem, which is fully visible, I didn’t finish properly… but you know, some things are easy to re-do later and some are not.  The waistband is the kind of a thing you’ve got to do it right the first time.

The blouse is made from an old lace curtain that was originally had hanging in an upstairs window… I took it down when we re-did our floors up there and have just never hung it up again! Lazy? the view was too nice? Both really  😉   A bit off one end was sacrificed for my top, hehehe.  I had also bought a length of white cotton/linen for the lining, there’s quite a few bolts of this in Spotlight at the mo’ selling for very cheap; I’ve actually bought quite a lot of it lately, for other projects yet to appear here…

My pattern is very loosely the epaulette top from She Has a Mannish style, cut to flare out more in the body and sleeves…  the lining is cut straighter in the sides.  The shell and lining have separate side seams, but are sewn together at the shoulders and armscye.  I pinned and stitched a square neckline, cut and overlocked the edge, and then stitched a length of white cotton bobbin lace around to edge it, part of a large stash that I’ve had for many, many (many, many) years.  It’s funny, I kind of threw this together just for the costume, but you know what?? I actually love it and will definitely be wearing this again, in real life!
Waist sash:  22cm x 3.8m, I wrapped it twice around my waist and finished off with a giant pouffy bow.  Head scarf:  30cm x 2.4m of white,  21cm x 2.3m of the red;  I’d cut the white wider to be the main colour with the red to be more of an accent, like how the Bahian ladies that had popped up in my google search have their headscarves.  I’d also googled “how to tie a Brazilian head scarf” and found this video which was sooooorta helpful, I kind of based mine off her first example… but my scarf is much much longer and I obviously tied and tucked and folded extra knots in mine so as to be a much higher and more complicated affair… I’d also made two “ropes” of the white and red and twisted them to tie around my headscarf to help keep it in place.

after this photo, I redid my headscarf and I think it was a lot better the second time!  but didn’t have enough time to take another pic 🙁

For footwear, I’d noticed that the ladies tend to wear low, flat, open sandals; very comfortable things like birkenstocks but not anything specific.  I got out a few of my sandals, and Mum voted for my little white sandals, that I made last summer.  I danced the night away in these things, and they’re still holding up great!

So that’s it!  We had a blast… I wish I could show you a picture of my son Tim, who went as Gisele Bündchen in a blonde wig, bikini top, boy leg shorts and full on wings a la Victoria’s Secret.   And clonking boots on his feet.  It was hilarious.  Absolutely he was the belle of the ball!

just use your imagination…

Another funny little moment of the evening’s preparations… Craig used this picture as his costume inspiration… we’d bought red, blue, green and yellow feather boas from Spotlight to customise the black pants and black shirt that he already had in his wardrobe.. we also bought yellow satin for a sash and a yellow velour fedora from Spotlight too…

Well, he’d cut and tied together lengths of the feather boas to make the leg and arm bands… and there was like masses of feather fluff and debris all over the floor.  So he’d got out the vacuum cleaner to do a quick tidy up.  Well, he was vacuuming quite perilously close to the little pile of carefully tied together feather boa bands… and I was literally just about to say “you might want to move those feather things” when FWOOOOOOOP! this quite long string of feather boas just disappeared! right up the vacuum cleaner in a flash!!  Like, literally a split second and they were gone, like a garishly coloured, feathery snake zooming at top speed into a burrow, …  well, Kelly and I burst out laughing and just couldn’t stop, haven’t seen anything so funny in aaaages!  Panic!  Don’t worry, we opened up the vacuum cleaner and rescued the furry beast from its lair, I mean, the feather boa, fortunately none the worse for wear.

SO much fun.  EEEEE, I LOVE costume parties!!

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a shirt for David and a dress for Cassie

hey bro!

Woooh!  I’m so excited to finally hand this over!  My brother has had/is having a big BIG birthday… and my sister-in-law made the brilliant suggestion that he would like a shirt made by me for his birthday.  Well, oh my goodness, I don’t know why I didn’t think of it myself!!  So I dutifully and sisterly-lovingly spent LOADS of time and care into making this as perfect as I possibly could, and it pretty much is.  Ta da!

looks like a kinda cool dress when Bessie is wearing it, yes?  Gotta admit, I WAS a little tempted to steal it …

I know what you’re thinking… don’t I pour loads of love and care into making shirts for my husband and two sons too? well of course I do.  Buuuut, see…  my brother’s shirt is going to be handled, worn, laundered, ironed and generally available for up close and personal inspection by someone other than me… and I quaked with fear at the thought   * imagines to oneself, my brother and sister-in-law with a magnifying glass going over each and every stitch*   Ha!

And yeah, this really is a VIB (Very Important Birthday).  and so I just really wanted for this shirt to this to be really really lovely for my really really lovely brother.

Pattern: I used my new mens’ shirt pattern Burda 6874, graded to fit David, plus I made his extra long as per the shirt whose size I was going off.  My sister-in-law had secretly given me a well-fitting shirt of his that I could measure off to custom-fit his shirt … David is a 6’4″ champion swimmer, and built like one too… did I ever mention he has swum the Rottnest Channel swim solo?!   Yep!!  Meaning that I needed to substantially re-grade my pattern to fit his physique.  I didn’t have David himself to check the fit off of, just that one shirt; so I was pretty terrified how mine was going to go.  Luckily the fit turned out to be absolutely spot on!  *pheeeew!!!

Fabric; a really nice deep indigo cotton/linen with a permanently scrunchy texture to it, I went big guns and bought this from Calico House, because well, it IS a special birthday.  The red buttons are from Fabulous Fabrics.

But enough boring chit-chat…  how about some gratuitous detail shots  #shirtporn #oooyouknowyouwantit

buttondown collar

it took me three goes to get the second of these buttonholes looking exactly the same as the first!

sleeve placket.  contrasting red cotton for the cuff and yoke facings, topstitched in a way that a tiny sliver peeked out on the right side


fully flat-felled seams throughout

sorry for collar picture overload.. I was just so thrilled at how nice it turned out!

I was once asked what the inside of these side seam gusset/insert thingies looks like …  Folding the inner edges all around made them pretty bulky so I cut away all seam allowances of “hidden” edges ie. those of the underside of the gusset and the turned under edge of the shirt hem, tucked them inside the upper gusset edge and topstitched them all down… thus considerably reducing bulk here

As soon as he opened it, he put it on.. obviously this made me SO HAPPY to see him wearing it!

Also… recently I mentioned that I had made a dress for Cassie?  well here ’tis!

Pattern; the Sudley by Megan Nielsen patterns,  I gathered up the sleeve hems with skinny elastic, like I had done for my own Sudley blouse, at her request.  All seams are French seams, dress is fully lined with the lining cut as an extended bodice.  The fabric is a very realistic silk-like poly from Spotlight, lining also from Spotlight.

 

 

To be honest, halfway through making it I felt pretty down about it, like this was a dress that couldn’t possibly be saved… but fortunately once it was on her it suddenly looked adorable. And she loves it!  Despite that very serious facial expression!

No no no!  I’m not about to be a granny yet… this is just a pose that made us both roar with laughter!  Demonstrating the… um, capacity of this design.

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