skirt Archives - Page 13 of 34 - Handmade by Carolyn

Incredi-Yellow!

21/05/2014 6:45 am \ 38 Comments \ Carolyn

I think every year I seem compelled to make for myself one skirt in some extremely garish shade. This year isn’t get away scot free either.
I bought this brilliant daffodil yellow pin-wale corduroy from Spotlight a few years ago. And I apologise for my painfully predictable choice of another Vogue 1247 skirt.
So, I put some thought into thinking of something new to write about the pattern here. I’ve used it a lot so clearly its got a lot going for it and so it shouldn’t be hard to write some fresh and original new praise for the pattern. Truly I wish I could expound long and freely and with poetic abandon upon the multitude merits of the humble Vogue 1247 skirt. But the well of words has run dry. So my love just has to be expressed wordlessly and in the mute evidence of the sheer number of them that have rolled off the sewing machine.

OK, lining. I can say something about that. I wanted to line it, so I could wear it with tights during winter. So, when in Spotlight recently I checked out the lining situ-bar. It was poor. But they had something called Dancetime Satin which was both cheap and a not-terrible colour. See, here’s the thing; my most favourite-ist skirt lining of all time has been the ivory satin I used in my curtaining skirt; another Vogue 1247. It’s been a sheer joy to wear this skirt, every time, and part of it is in the quiet hidden luxury of the rich lining with its sheen and its cool slipperiness. But there’s satin and then there’s satin.

Like a fool, I fell for a low price.
I have some hard-won advice for everyone; do not ever, under any circumstances, EVER, buy Dancetime Satin. Unless you are planning to set fire to something quickly.
Dancetime Satin is like demon’s spawn, put on this earth in order to torment the unsuspecting home seamster. Truthfully.

Really I should have given up on it, sought out some regular polyacetate lining from Fabulous Fabrics. But I struggled on with the Dancetime Satin lining, and because there was some leftover I made some bias to finish the lower hem.
I’m hoping it proves itself nice to wear, at least.

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247, lengthened and lined and more A-line, yellow corduroy, my review of this pattern here
Top; the twist top from Pattern Magic by Tomoko Nakamichi, charcoal ponte, details here
Tights, self-drafted, black merino knit, details here, and my tutorial on how to make your own custom fit tights here
Shoes; Django and Juliette, from Zomp shoes

Not that the back view of this skirt is particularly noteworthy, but I’ve realised I’ve pretty much never provided on my blog a back view of this Pattern Magic twist top. I love this top. I want it to last forever.

LATER EDIT;

this skirt has received a dye bath and now looks like this:

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, Pattern Magic, skirt, Vogue 1247

Olive Frankenstein skirt

12/05/2014 5:49 am \ 36 Comments \ Carolyn

I am notoriously bad at tossing out old scraps of fabric. Particularly if I really really like the colour.
And I really really like olive.
So; after finishing my patched pockets skirt I still had some promisingly largish pieces of grey-green corduroy and olive-green moleskin leftover, and I unearthed from my “useful scraps” bag the remains of a different pair of grey-green corduroy pants that both my boys had worn at the age of eight to ten or thereabouts. Yeah, I keep stuff a long time. The knee areas were a bit thin in them all but there was still some nice sturdy fabric to be had there. And the colour!

oh ok I agree, doesn’t look very promising…

So I’ve made a little skirt; just a casual knock around kinda of a thing. It is patched together from three different fabrics but it still looks quite plain I think since the colours are so similar to each other. I’m pretty chuffed with it! Of the pluses of working with old unwanted textiles; it’s green, it’s economical, you can sew to your heart’s content unfettered by fear of failure. If you’re reworking with the constraints of an old garment it exercises the ol’ brain cells a bit. And so a successful outcome feels like a mega bonus!

The boys’ old cords had kinda cool, oversized patch pockets on them that I’ve always liked and kept because I thought they might come in handy one day. I used these pieces with the pockets still in situ. Some of the leg fabric of these pants had previously gone into making the Green parliament, here. I also added some oddly shaped patch pockets to the back of my new skirt too, just because the back was a bit boring-looking without them.

Technically speaking; I used the upper skirt pattern pieces of Vogue 1247 to cut the waist to hips part with the waist-shaping darts but the overall shape of my skirt is more A-line than the pattern. This is pretty much my favourite “little skirt” silhouette at the moment.
I used an invisible zip in the back, an old button harvested from something else long forgotten, long ago, and plain white cotton to face the waistband, I made a bias strip of the same plain white cotton to finish the lower raw edge, turned up the lower edge once and stitched in the ditch by machine to hem. I reckon this is the best hemming method for thick fabric since bulk is minimised by only turning up once and a bias strip looks a lot neater and prettier than overlocking. Also if you are short on fabric you can still get a nice deep hem without losing length off the skirt. .

Details:
Skirt; my own design based upon Vogue 1247, made from three old pairs of jeans
Shirt; my own design variations upon Burda 7767, deep olive linen, details here
Thongs; Mountain Designs

this picture just because it made me laugh… o well hello there!

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, own design, patchwork, photo-bomb, Sienna, skirt, Vogue 1247, Wardrobe Refashion

“Baseball” skirt and tee

12/04/2014 2:53 am \ 67 Comments \ Carolyn

This is just a bit of silliness really; remember I said I had some idiotic plans for my leftover off-white leatherette? well I just hopped straight into it. This is a new skirt, leatherette with red stitching to delineate the seam lines, baseball-like. Yeah I know, kinda weird; and I’m still wondering if I ruined the skirt with that stitching! but it’s just a bit of fun really. I figure if I absolutely hate it down the track I can always pull out the baseball stitching 🙂

I used this picture to help me

source

The pattern is Vogue 1170; my fourth iteration of this pattern. I chose it because it had lots of seam lines! and I lengthened it as much as I possibly could given my small piece of leatherette. Actually, this is a good skirt for a smallish odds and ends of fabric; surprisingly good considering its flippiness. It’s only the two large front-and-back pieces that take up the most fabric; the smaller pieces can be cut out of edges and corners and other off-cuts. I left off the pockets and fully lined the skirt with cream polyacetate lining fabric; and I cut the waistband a lot narrower and on a curve to follow the curve of the skirt top. This resulted in a much better fitting waistband than the original straight one, imo. Also, I’ve learnt my lesson from my previous leatherette skirt where I found the leatherette waist facing kinda icky worn against the skin; and cut the waistband facing in white linen. Much nicer!

The stitching is in red silk thread, which I’ve had for years… er, 21 *blush* but who’s counting! 😀 a leftover from knotting Tim’s quilt; and a small portion in matching red topstitching thread, which I ended up having to buy new (grrr!) when I didn’t have just quite enough of the silk. Don’t you hate that!!
I did the stitching in two passes, first time you do alternate halves of the “wings”, and the second pass you finish off the other side of each one.

And because a baseball skirt needs a baseball tee, I made one; just because 🙂 I used two old Tshirts from my refashioning bag.

OK, I thought that this is what a baseball tee looks like; but imagine my disappointment when I googled images of baseball players to see that they actually don’t wear this sort of two-coloured raglan-sleeved tee at all! but instead have a big baggy short-sleeved top, sometimes with a close-fitting long-sleeve top underneath. NO raglans to be seen. Confused! So; why is a tee like this known as a baseball Tshirt, when actually it is not?! I would love to be enlightened. Anyhoo; I made it from from my own custom pattern, using an old raglan sleeve tee to help get me started and then fiddling and fine-tuning to fit me. The embroidered motif on the front of the blue Tshirt, I positioned on the back of the new Tshirt. It was either that or cut it in half, and even though my new tee is a cobble-together job, doesn’t mean it has to look like one!

With the neckline binding; I cut strips from the sleeves of the cream tee and joined them to get one long enough to do the neckline. And this time I cut the strips with a bias joining edge: you can just barely make out the join in this picture. This gave such a vastly superior finish to my usual method of joining on a straight seam! and I can’t believe it has taken me sooooo long to work out this might be a better thing to do. Up until now I’ve used a straight joining seam, and the bulkiness of all the layers in that bit make for a slightly bubbly and bumpy bit at that spot on the neckline. So I hide this by positioning it at the back of the neck somewhere; but if the seam is on the diagonal, like here, then there is less bulk and very little bump issues. Don’t know why it’s taken this long for the lightbulb to go off, but better late than never 🙂

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170 with minor modifications, off-white leatherette with red decorative top-stitching; my review of this pattern here and my tips for working with leatherette here
Tshirt; self-drafted, made from two old Tshirts
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: embroidery, own design, seams, skirt, SWAP, top, Vogue 1170, Wardrobe Refashion

Patched pockets

20/03/2014 8:20 am \ 42 Comments \ Carolyn

Just to provide further proof of my predilection for unusual clothing … please allow me to present my new skirt.
This skirt is the love-child of four old pairs of jeans. They were a bit battered but in favourite colours, and had fabric in some areas still in pretty good knick. Charcoal denim (Cassie’s), olive green corduroy, olive green moleskin and chocolate moleskin (Craig’s). The chocolate moleskins had previously been nibbled away at to produce the Brown parliament.

The skirt pattern is another offspring of Vogue 8363; yes, the very same as my previous big baggy pockets skirt. Quite different, yes?! That’s the beauty of a well-drafted good basic pattern like this one, you aren’t limited to the plain unadorned versions, which obviously have their place in any well-rounded wardrobe too! but my point is that you are only limited by your imagination 🙂
I thoroughly enjoyed making this. For a start it’s re-using old unwanted textiles, always an activity dear to my heart. I am in the fortunate position that when my family is tossing out cruddy old clothes they tend to lob them my way first.
And I love puzzles, and making this skirt was a fun puzzle. This was a joyful and totally engrossing project where I happily zoomed along, cutting out on the laundry floor, up and down, rushing to the sewing machine, the iron; slicing and piecing away without any thought to time passing. Bliss…

I used the pattern variation that allowed for front slanted pockets, and made whole skirt front and whole skirt back pattern pieces from newspaper, re-drawing the side seams on both front and back to be just slightly more flared and A-line than the pencil lines of the pattern although not quite as pronounced as for my big baggy pockets skirt.

I unpicked and re-used the waistband from the charcoal jeans and made use of its resident buttonhole although I sewed on a new flat button that won’t dig into the small of my back when I’m sitting back in a chair. I also re-used the waistband of the chocolate jeans to finish the lower hem, putting its button and buttonhole at the front. It wasn’t long enough to do the full hemline of the skirt, so I made a filler piece and a few extra belt loops and repositioned all the belt loops to distribute them evenly and hide the joining seams. I also saved the fly front off the olive green moleskins and re-used it for the skirt closure at the centre back, although retrospectively I’m not in love with this. It’s quite a bulky fly with a heavy duty jeans zip, but I guess the look of it is in keeping with the whole cobbled together, rough-and-ready look of the skirt.

I cut the patches so as to keep lots of pockets from the various jeans. The skirt actually has eight pockets in total!… in addition to the two regular slanted front hip pockets that I sewed as part of the pattern; there are two patch pockets, three welt pockets and one curved side pocket in it. I only did this for fun, for the aesthetics of them, but they are all still functional.

It’s just a bit of silliness really, but I like off-beat random patchwork-y stuff like this 🙂
Inspiration? Well, I’ve pinned like a tonne of this sort of thing… this Isabel Marant dress, this mystery jacket, and also Yoshimi’s jeans from a few years ago. Also, while I was busy laying down patches and switching around different shapes and sizes, this cottage kept popping into my head. Now a cottage probably seems like an off-the-wall (ha!) inspiration for a skirt, but let me explain; superficially, the re-cycled nature of the materials is an obvious commonality between the cottage and my skirt, as well as artistically, in the random and irregular grid of their design. And in purpose, pockets in clothing have a correlation to windows in architecture. Pockets and windows are a visual feature of a thing, but also a functional component of that thing; specifically as an opening to/in their respective objects but not the entry point to that object.
So in that vein; can one consider a pocketless garment to be like a window-less building; and are zips and button-bands akin to the doors/gates of a building?
Discuss in one thousand words or less and submit by the end of class.
(only joking)
Sometimes I think it would be lots of fun to have a group to discuss and dissect clothing and fashion theory; like a book club, only far more frivolous.
(sigh) A pipe dream…
This skirt is another swap item.

Details:
Top; top “a” from shape shape by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white cotton, details here
Skirt; Vogue 8363 modified, made from 4 old pairs of jeans, my review of this pattern here

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, own design, Sienna, skirt, SWAP, Vogue 8363, Wardrobe Refashion

Big baggy pockets…

24/02/2014 3:11 pm \ 40 Comments \ Carolyn

… with bonus skirt.
It is an unusual skirt, admittedly. That’s OK. One description could focus on the fact that it is softly creamy in shade, ever-so-slightly crinkly in texture, interestingly layered in construction, and easily breezily comfortably summery as a whole. Another could point out that it is made of flippin’ curtaining off-cuts for crying out loud, and features ginormous flappy saddlebag things. Well let’s not over-romanticise, hmmm? But I like it, nonetheless. And I don’t mind curtaining fabric; in fact, one of my most useful and reliable favourites is another curtaining skirt..
I started out with Vogue 8363, a plain, waist-banded pencil skirt with simple variations; and altered it to make it a bit more A-line, cutting the side edges like so; both front and back. And then added my little added designer-y flight of fancy in the form of those big wrap-around bags.

They are basically sacks; like envelopes or pillowslips, that are sewn within long long extensions of the narrow waistband. These cross over at the centre back, wrap around my hips and tie loosely at the front. The skirt closure is the regular kind, by invisible zip in the centre back seam.
I was inspired by this skirt. Does anyone else have a go at actually doing something with their pins? I have pinned LOTS of things, but have only followed through on nutting out making a few. I have big BIG plans for making tonnes of things from my random unbridled pinnings; but the same ol’ story; so much inspiration, so little time. And there’s only so many clothes that one can in all good conscience add to one’s wardrobe. Striking a balance is key, my friends, striking a balance. However I do feel pretty good about this particular skirt since it’s pretty much a freebie; made from the off-cuts of Cassie’s curtains. I’d found the absolutely perfect thick calico curtains on super special in Spotlight. Correction; the fabric was perfect but the top had been made as pencil pleat curtains, which I loathe and detest with a fiery passion. So I bought them too long and cut off the tops, keeping the hemline intact, and re-sewed the top edge with my preferred triple pleat curtain tape, so they match nearly all the other curtains I’ve made for our house. And was rewarded with a few pieces of leftover fabric… which I have now put to good use 😉 Double, no… triple win!

Details:
Skirt; a modification of Vogue 8363, thick calico curtaining fabric, my review of this pattern here
Top; the loose drape top slightly modified, from drape drape by Hisako Sato, white crinkly cotton jersey, all details here
Sandals; Franco Burrone, from Marie Claire boutique

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: curtains, daily outfit, own design, Sienna, skirt, SWAP, Vogue 8363

Alabama Chanin skirt and tank

05/01/2014 5:03 am \ 119 Comments \ Carolyn

Hello!
So! after hours (and hours… and hours…) of aeroplane and in-front-of-the-TV stitching, I have finished my first AC project(s).
This is the mid-length skirt and the fitted tank top, both from the book, Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, by Natalie Chanin. The two are actually just one pattern, a full length dress pattern, which you cut off at the relevant places to make either a skirt or a top. Or a tunic or a dress.
Great idea, by the way. I love the economy of one all-inclusive pattern. Means you only have one thing to store, but about a zillion “making” opportunities in there. OK, to be accurate there are eight garment possibilities from the one pattern, but surely at least a zillion wearing and layering combinations to be had.

My skirt! I’m so pleased with it! It is totally hand-quilted and stitched in the reverse appliqué technique described in the book; using a top layer of lightweight deep olive bamboo/cotton knit, bought originally from Potters Textiles years ago, and the base layer is a thicker and more stable dirt-brown cotton jersey from KnitWit, also bought years ago. These are my colours, yo 🙂 I also used some of that same brown cotton to make part of Tim’s hoodie, here.

The stencil pattern is Anna’s Garden from the AC book, enlarged 306%. I applied the stencil to the olive fabric using a small foam roller and regular household paint, as described here. The thread used throughout is a brown/grey Gutermann’s upholstery thread, although Spotlight ran out of my colour (grrr!) so a small portion was done in the same colour of Gutermann’s topstitching thread. Top-stitching thread is kinda OK stuff but I really prefer the upholstery thread; much smoother and less prone to the strands separating from each other.
All the seams are hand stitched too, and felled by hand. I had initially toyed with machine stitching the seams; but of course after all that hand embroidery I knew I had to finish off properly…. This took a blink of an eye compared to the embroidery side of things, so I am so pleased I opted to “do it right”, so to speak. I like the way the felling shows upon the right side as a row of dimples; barely hinted-at stitches along the seams.

I finished the waistband with chocolate brown fold over elastic, bought from Tessuti’s in Melbourne. This stuff is extraordinarily expensive here and pretty hard to find in Perth. Believe it or not; this colour is the closest match that I’ve found… anywhere.

My top: I actually do have a matching deep-olive-and-dirt-brown fitted tank top printed, planned and ready to go, but as soon as I finished the skirt I had a Vision; only the plainest of plain white tanks would be the absolutely perfect-est accompaniment to this busy busy skirt. I had the immediate compulsion to make such a thing.

I bought the white cotton jersey from KnitWit, and made up a very simple fitted tank; no frills but still constructed in the Alabama Chanin way, so stylistically it matches the skirt really well. The seams are stitched and felled by hand, and the binding applied with herringbone stitch. Although there a visible knots aplenty on the inside of the skirt… unavoidable! I went out of my way to hide them on the inside of the tank top, concealing all the knots inside the layers of the felling and binding.
Neckline and armhole binding and seams: below left, right side view; at right, inner view with felled seams

Fitting-wise; I raised the back neckline of the tank and made the shoulder straps a little wider also. In my early experiments, I sliced a biggish sway-back wedge from the pattern which affected both the tank and the skirt pieces.
Time-wise; the tank top took, like, one day at the most? while the skirt has taken weeks! Although I would like to add more Alabama Chanin pieces to my wardrobe, there is no danger that I am going to get addicted to this technique. It is basically identical to hand-quilting and I have made enough quilts to know I can only take so much of that. My left pointer finger needs time to rest and recuperate. The tip of that finger has skin like a rhino now. Seriously.
Obviously I am thrilled to bits with my first Alabama Chanin project, and the second! however there will be one little hurdle; I’m going to have to force myself to wear the skirt and not treat it like a museum piece. I’m having visions of unwittingly sitting down on a patch of oil, or brushing against a spiky bush or someone carrying a glass of red wine tripping and falling in slow motion in my direction…. aaagh! The stuff of nightmares! 😉

Details:
Skirt; the mid-length skirt from Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, hand-embroidered and stitched cotton jersey in two solid colours
Top; the fitted tank from Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, hand-stitched, white cotton jersey
Sandals: Franco Burrone, from Marie Claire

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: alabama chanin, daily outfit, embroidery, handcrafts, skirt, SWAP, top

on the Map

25/11/2013 7:46 am \ 68 Comments \ Carolyn

I saw this awesome world map fabric in Spotlight and just couldn’t resist. Novelty fabrics just make the best mini-skirts for summer. Simple and understated but still interesting and quietly eye-catching. Best worn with a plain white top.
The fabric was sold by the panel, and I used Vogue 1247, splicing the pieces together to make one solid front and one solid back. I put the invisible zip closure in the left side seam, so as to have as much seamless and uninterrupted flow of map happening as possible, and wrapped the button closure just a bit further along from the side seam and around the corner to the back. Believe it or not, this looks much better than having it right boom on the side seam, less bulky and gives a more streamlined look.

The waistband is faced with plain ice-blue lightweight Rowan cotton, bought from purl soho about two? three? years ago. Unlined, because it’s practically summer; overlocked raw edges and a bias-bound and hand-stitched hem. Australia is on the front.
That’s it.

Oh, and also, um, so yes. It can be seen that my Constant Companion has had a haircut. A rather drastic one. The tail. That was a shock. Did not expect that. I’m still not used to it, and am hoping it will actually grow back! Think I’m going to have be a heap more specific when liaising with the dog-groomer from now on! In the meantime, she’s answering to Miss Rat-tail O’Skinnypins, thanks very much.
But what do I know; she’s pretty happy. Puppy-like frolicking ensues 🙂

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 modified, printed cotton drill, my review of this pattern
Top; the bamboo shoot top from Pattern Magic, white linen, details here
Sienna in summer attire

Posted in: Uncategorized \ Tagged: daily outfit, Sienna, skirt, Vogue 1247

Thoughts on hem lengths; linings and slips

18/09/2013 6:54 am \ 28 Comments \ Carolyn

One of my wardrobe renovations performed lately was to shorten this skirt by a good several inches; a super quickie reno, but one that nevertheless completely transformed this skirt for me from something that almost caused me to shudder whenever I happened to catch sight of myself in a shop window reflection, to something that I have been wearing with a lot more pleasure and more confidence in how it fits nicely in with my style now. Although I made it to wear this winter, it didn’t really “go” stylistically with any of the tops and cardigans, heck not even any of the shoes and boots that are the mainstays of my current winter wardrobe. When I trialled pinning it up a few inches; hey presto, problem instantly solved.

I do have this theory that when it comes to skirts we all have a personal Ideal Hem Length; that is good for YOU, and it could be a bad idea to mess around with it too much. For me, I think I prefer winter skirts to be EITHER about 10cm (4″) above the knee, OR quite long at midi-length, like roughly 20cm (8″) above the ankle. These are lengths that just look better with all my tops, all my shoes and that suit my personal style. Obviously I reserve the right to change my mind about that one, at any moment, according to any and all fleeting fashion whims.

Good thing I can sew for myself, hmmm? 😉

I had already finished the lower raw edge with violet bias binding, so to unpick and re-stitch it up a coupla inches higher was an ultra quick renovation… and the extra length is still there, should my wardrobe tastes migrate to embrace the aesthetics of different hem length.

now that’s a nice deep hem!

And now to another topic, slightly related…

Kathleen wrote a comment bringing up the topic of skirts; specifically, to line or not to line? That is the question! which I thought worthy of further exposition.

In the photo above I am actually wearing a full slip underneath my outfit, not that you can see it, which is the point really!

I line the majority of my skirts but not all of them, and it is always something to consider, how do you choose which gets lined and which does not?

I’m sure we’re all familiar with the horrible experience of your unlined skirt slowly and inexorably riding up your stockinged legs, as if driven by some strange evil impulse of its own… which is why a lining is a good idea. But for many of us in hot climates a lining can be a pesky thing that clings hideously to your sweaty legs for most of the year. So what do you do if you want a bit more versatility, for your skirts to see more active duty, to be an all-seasons item as it were?

The answer is of course, a separate slip or petticoat.

I chose to make this skirt without a lining because I wanted it to be transitional thing, to wear on both winter-y days and warmer bare-legged days too. And on cold days when tights are on, as above, I have a few slips, or petticoats that I can wear underneath, that do the same duty as a lining. In the outfit above, I am wearing a pale blue silk petticoat, chosen because the colour went with the rest of my outfit, not that you are supposed to see it! but still, just in case 🙂 I like my colours to “go”. So when re-hemming the skirt I was careful to hem it to a length that I could still wear my petticoats underneath it.

It’s always really good to have several petticoats or slips on hand from which to choose. I have eight full slips or petticoats in total, half of which could pass as little summer dresses if worn with extras: this pale blue one, a pale pink one, a beige one (easily my most useful one), a cream broderie anglaise one and a black one, shown long here but I have since re-hemmed it quite a bit shorter, and also three long and full-skirted ones, in yellow, pink and a white Metalicus one. I don’t have any half-slips… but then until I started listing them for this post I didn’t realise just how many petticoats I actually had and maybe I have an abundance already!
So, in summary: To Line, or to Slip? that is the (paraphrased) question…

Later edit: for those looking for a pattern; the lovely and clever Sherry of pattern scissors cloth (I miss her!) designed and uploaded the Ruby slip, a pattern for a simple bias cut slip with the option for a lace bodice, and also generously provided extensive and super helpful instructions. Available for free download here

Details:

Top; Vogue 1115, blue denim details and my review of this pattern here

Skirt; Vogue 8363 heavily modified, green cotton corduroy, more details here and my review of this pattern here
Petticoat; Burda 8071, pale blue silk, details here

Tights; self-drafted, blue denim-look jersey, details here

Shoes, Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes