Tag Archives: Skirt

pale pink Issey Miyake skirt

23/05/2015 4:22 am \ 58 Comments \

Why a pale pink skirt,
I hear you cry?
why not a pale pink skirt,
is my reply.

Poetry.  Nailed it.
Sorry.  I’m in a silly mood and obviously having trouble thinking of intelligent-sounding stuff to write…
Ok.  So, at the beginning of the year I pledged to sew five items from my vintage patterns… this latest effort is my first; woot!
The pattern is Vogue 1384, a 1984 Issey Miyake design.  30 years old is pretty “vintage” yeah?  yup I reckon so.
I’m slightly amused at myself that I signed up actually since a few years ago I was so allergic to the very word “vintage” and could not hear it without an involuntary eye roll.  I was like, o gawd, so done-to-death!!  I should say I wasn’t against any thing vintage, in itself, in fact I love antiques, and old things.  It was just the word “vintage”.  Hehehe.  I must be mellowing somewhat.

Anyhoo, back to The Thing: my cool new skirt.  Or should I say, my skirt of a very very cool design.  As we can usually expect from Issey Miyake, it a quite unique, intriguing and interesting approach to a skirt; being a few oddly shaped rectangles cut, spliced and resewn together at seemingly random places, and boom; you end up with an asymmetric skirt.  Fabulousity!

I know, and I agree; creations made from “vintage” patterns can be a little annoying to read about on blogs, thanks to the patterns being so rare and hard to come by.  Not very helpful; and sorta inspirational rather than aspirational.  I’m sorry!
I used a heavenly soft pink poly crepe from Fabulous Fabrics, the same fabric I used for my other Sea Change top.  So the two make another matching skirt/top set, should I desire to wear them together.  But I think it will go with lots of other tops in my wardrobe too.
The pink poly crepe is on the sheer side, so I lined my skirt with ivory polyacetate fabric.  I managed to cut the lining as just one piece: I worked out how to do this after sewing the skirt pieces together and could see how the skirt “worked”, so to speak.  I spliced the skirt pieces together at the relevent joining points and marked and sewed in the waist shaping darts at the top.  It ended up looking kinda like a big quarter-doughnut shape.  Then I just included it in with the skirt when sewing on the waistband at the top.   Simple dimple.

The waistband is of matching, pale pink silk dupion, also from Fabulous Fabrics.  I chose this because it is nicely stiff, inflexible and very stable, which is really good in a waistband for a skirt like this.  While the floaty, ripply, slithery poly crepe is really lovely for the skirt part of the skirt, it is not the slightest bit stable.  And this is very much a waist-defining skirt design, for which a structurally sound waistband is imperative.
Some skirts are loose and flowy all over and are ok sitting low on the hips in a casual bohemian way; others need support, and the waistband is it.  This design is firmly in the latter category.
Summary:
What do I love: the asymmetric shape, and the random waterfall-y ruffle-y thing falling down into a handkerchief like hem at the front.  Divinely floaty fabric in the heavenliest soft pale pink.
What don’t I love; it’s nearly winter here and I’m going to have to put it away for a few months.  Boooo!
OK, I have nothing else remotely intelligent to add; so, until next time, amigos!

Details:
Top; the loose drape top, modified, from drape drape by Hisako Sato, linen cotton jersey.  I discovered a little hole while I was putting this on this morning, aaagh! Immediate emergency darning ensued!  I love this top!
Skirt; Vogue 1384, pale pink poly-crepe
Cardigan; I also wore my calico cotton cardigan today…
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp shoe boutique

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lurid green skirt

30/04/2015 8:42 am \ 36 Comments \

A delightful morning tea with Sue and Megan this morning seemed like a good opportunity to crack out my new skirt for its maiden voyage.  And we were meeting in Kings Park which is one of Perth’s most beautiful parks, so naturally I snuck along early avec camera et tripod to have a quicksticks photo session in a blissfully empty park, prior to our morning tea! haha, doesn’t everyone do weird stuff like that?!  hmmm, don’t answer that!
This is skirt “d” from the Japanese pattern book shape shape, originally called Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa.  To be honest, I’m a little bit sad the book was renamed to be something cool and catchy in English.  I liked its first title; I thought it quite charming and I expect it was also likely a more accurate portrayal of the original Japanese title’s intention.  Much in the same way that I prefer the title “she has a mannish style” over the new English title “she wears the pants” and speaking of that I have a bit of a grumble about that very misleading new title since there are VERY FEW pants patterns in that book! and almost all of those gorgeous pants pictured are NOT available as patterns!! but more on that another day…  I’m still quite glad I bought that book while it still had that original title too!
Back to my skirt, ahem.
I’ve made this pattern once before in silver grey, here.  Oooh, I loved that skirt, and have been wanting to replace it in my wardrobe for years now.  Now I have! although the colour is a little less, um, shall we say easy on the eye, haha!

This skirt is such a very simple and yet quite unique and clever design, cut in one piece with part on the straight grain and part on the bias.  I think it can be seen from the different angles how the drape of the skirt changes quite distinctively around the skirt from the seam around to the seam again.
The bias dropped a bit before hemming, as it is wont to do, and I really liked how that looked, so hemmed the skirt without evening it off. 

I like wearing it with the buttons situated just slightly asymmetrically to the left like here, putting the bias drape to the left/back, although the skirt can be swivelled around to wear it with the bias to the back or the right, or even the front although the longer length at the front looks a wee bit odd.  You can wear it any way you like, in fact.  Thus the original title of the book!
Please excuse the multiple pictures, but I think the skirt looks at its absolute very best when in motion, the bias part really comes to glorious, rippling, swishy life.  Really, there’s few feelings more lovely that that of soft slithery fabric swirling around and against your legs as you walk.  Bliss.

All my materials; fabric, lining and buttons, are from Fabulous Fabrics.  My fabric is a rather eye-searingly intense chartreuse poly crepe, the same fabric I used for the armbands on my second Sea Change top, here, so the two should go nicely together.  A two piece set-tacular!  It’s a little nippy for that top here today, so I hauled out a warmer thing.  Winter’s coming, yay.  Please note the use of extreme sarcasm font there.  We get very mild winters here, but I’m still that wuss that barely tolerates the slightest hint of cold in the air.

The crepe is on the sheer side so it needed a layer underneath, either a lining or a petticoat.  I decided to line, and bought some poly knit of some sort or another, chosen merely for its excellent colour match.  It’s quite stable stuff, so I merely cut it nice straight and even line at the bottom edge and left the lining unhemmed, it sits nice and flat and smooth and doesn’t show on the outside at all.  I attached the lining to the skirt at the lower edge of the waist facing, and it does its job fine.  However, the knit seems a little heavy, and I’m worried it actually drags the skirt down just a touch.  I’m toying with the idea of detaching it, adding some elastic to the top edge and wearing it as a completely separate petticoat.  Or maybe not, depends whether I can be bothered.  We’ll see how it goes.  Probably I’ll plan to alter, while wearing the skirt to the end of its natural life, unaltered.  Story of my life, pretty much!

Details:
Skirt; skirt “d”, from Shape Shape by Natsuno Hiraiwa, chartreuse poly crepe, lined with knit
Shirt; Burda 8497 with added cuffs, white cotton, details here
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp shoe boutique

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two sea change tops and a little blue skirt

16/04/2015 9:44 am \ 38 Comments \

I absolutely adored the new Lily Sage & Co Sea Change top when Debbie debuted it on instagram and rushed with unseemly haste to sign up when she called for testers.  My love has not diminished upon making up a few either.

The top can be made in either a stretch or a woven, and I elected to make up one in each.
Exhibit A is in a deep blue stretch panne velvet, from the leftovers from Sam’s Magicka robe here.  Basically, it’s a big, roomy, cropped, oversized velvet Tshirt.  Ha! I know that sounds weird and like the kind of thing that has potential to be hideous, but I think it turned out absolutely not.  I love it, unequivocally.

The Sea Change is a gorgeous design; modern and stylish, comfortably roomy, chicly oversized and tres elegant.  It is also a super easy, quick and simple project; a “can be started the night before to wear the next day”, kind of a project.  My measurements fell on the upper side of Small, lower side of Medium, so I elected to go Medium.  This feels fine, but the top is quite unfitted and intentionally roomy so I would have been equally comfortable in the Small too, I think.

So, that’s top numero uno.
And theeeeeeeen…
Having done a little cleanout recently I realised that I had very few skirts that matched my lovely new top… the horror!  I raced to rectify this terrible situation.
I unearthed from le stash a few smallish pieces of bright blue cotton corduroy, the leftovers from my dyed blue ray dress here.  I had just exactly enough to eke out the pieces of Vogue 1247… o joy!  It’s bordering on embarrassing how many of these skirts I have made by now.  It’s such a fantabulous little pattern; a. on its own merits, nothing else considered; and also b. for using up a pile of awkwardly too-big-to-throw-away leftover scraps, and also c. it’s hard to have too many of these classic little A-line skirts in winter.

The brightness of the blue is borderline OK/not-OK for me.  I’m humming and haa-ing about it a bit.  I’ve been entertaining very tempting thoughts of dyeing it a deeper darker dirtier blue; a colour which I think will blend in a lot better with my current colours hanging in the wardrobe.  But for now I’m just going to live with it for a while and see how it goes…
I bound the inner seam allowances of the skirt with some pretty pink and white polycotton gingham, itself the leftovers from a lemon-butter bottling project, and also used for this nightie.  I have now used up every.  Single.  Last.  Weeny.  Scrap, of this stuff.  Hurrah!
The only thing I had to buy new for this entire outfit was the invisible zip for the skirt… and then this is a whole new outfit ALL from leftovers! So it feels kinda free, in a way.  Double hurrah!

But wait, there’s more…
Exhibit B.

My second Sea Change top is made from a very lightweight and drapey crepe from Fabulous Fabrics.  All new fabric for this baby!  It is a rather divine and heavenly pale pink in colour, and sheer enough that I decided to underline totally in a slightly deeper pink, poly chiffon.  By “underline” I actually sewed all shoulder and side seams, the sewed the two different tops together around the neckline, right sides together, turned the chiffon top to the inside and under stitched and top stitched around the neckline… then, from then on, treated the two layers as one.  So, that’s not really the same as underlining, but I have no other, more accurate word for that process.  All seams are concealed away within the layers of the top and bands.

I embroidered a tiny “x” to mark the back…

The armbands are the same stuff, in a garish lime-y greeny yellow that I was drawn to immediately.  While I was petting it another lady in the store remarked, “that is your colour!”
*cue immediate purchase*
I bought enough for a matching skirt too.  I’m rather excited about the skirt; which I have to confess is already made, finished and hanging in the wardrobe but not yet worn or documented, whoops!! anyway I’m excited about wearing it because I think it will go very nicely with both of these tops, and a whole lot of my current existing tops too.  In fact, I’m quite looking forward to mixing and matching all these things in with my new and existing winter wardrobe.

 

Details:
Tops; the Sea Change top by Lily Sage & Co, (1) dark blue stretch velvet, and  (2) pink and green poly crepe lined with pink chiffon
Skirts; Vogue 1247 lengthened, (1) blue cotton corduroy, and (2) yellow cotton corduroy, details here and my review of this pattern here

Update: it’s been great, but nearly two years of use later and I got a bit bored with the vivid bright blue-ness of that little blue skirt, so I’ve over dyed it with some brown dye.  Now it’s a lovely deep navy/teal colour.  Like having a new skirt!
Wearing it with my paprika Nettie bodysuit and my suedette MN Dove blouse that’s a pretty good colour match, yay!

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purple skirt, with “tulip” pockets

09/03/2015 9:13 am \ 44 Comments \
I’ve made a new skirt.  This new skirt is un-noteworthy except that I gave it some rather unusual little side pockets.  They sit down at the hem, inserted in off-set side seams.  They’re not very big pockets, just a nice size to hold my fitbit and maybe my phone at a stretch.  Really, I was playing; got the idea to put them in a skirt and went for it.
The pockets are based on those in this picture, which ?I think? is from a vintage design.  To accommodate them in this otherwise very plain little skirt I drafted for myself a 4-panelled skirt pattern using an old favourite Vogue 1247, a straight skirt with waistband, as a starting point.  I treated the pattern like a “block”, and spliced, cut and spread and sliced and rotated to eliminate darts etc to make a 4-panelled pattern with a narrow front and back and two, even narrower, waist-to-hem side panels which host the pockets.  
Fabrics; outer and lining fabrics are both from Fabulous Fabrics, a greyish purple silk hessian for the outer shell from the remnants table and burgundy polyacetate for the lining fabric.  I only had 60cm of the silk hessian, barely big enough for anything at all!  Extreme laying-out skillz were employed, hehe.

lining was cut using spliced-together Vogue 1247 straight, with the waist darts simply pleated into the waistband.
The grey cotton jersey edging on those pocket panels is harvested from off of an old Tshirt of Tim’s, and lack of fabric forced me to use it for the waistband facing too.
front view is kinda boring
So…  skirts.  I’ve been having some deep thoughts.  Well, about as deep as can be expected on the subject of skirts, which is approximately puddle-depth in the scheme of things … but still.
Keeping tabs of my wardrobe over the past few years has not been totally fluff n’ puff with no substance, believe it or not some actual useful conclusions have been reached.  *gasp!* 
Into Mind writes about finding your “uniform” and I find I tend to favour two quite distinct and different kinds of skirts; plain and straight “little” skirts like my new one here and then longer, three-quarter length ones that can be a bit more visually interesting, more pfouffy with layering and/or detailing. 
During winter, well I could happily and comfortably live in the former, plain, straight, little skirts, all winter long.  I like to wear jeans every now and then, but really, if I’m being honest, skirts are just far more “me”.  
It’s nice to have some skirt-and-top “outfits”, that go together so well they don’t need to go with anything else, ie. my Alabama Chanin ensemble; but obviously solid-coloured separates are the absolute best workhorses for mixing and matching the sometimes disparate elements of my wardrobe.  Colourwise, I have seasonal favourites and basics and neutrals, sure, and I also like to have some odd colours, “outliers” in my wardrobe to choose from too, to suit whatever changing mood I’m in.  And, I don’t know if it’s because I pluck them from my wardrobe more frequently, or because of their straight shape, or both; but all my “little” skirts always seem to bag out and die more quickly too.  
Sadness ensues.  Cue tiny violins.
Anyway, just some random thoughts.  Ergo, I’m stocking up on some little skirts in a few different colours.  So sensible!  It’s early to judge it yet, but I think this sludgy purply-grey colour might be a totally excellent one in my winter wardrobe.  It’s not obviously a neutral, nor a colour, but manages to be a bit of both, if that makes any sense at all.  We shall see, we shall see…  🙂
 back view, also kinda boring

Details:
Skirt; my own design, derived from Vogue 1247 as a “block”, deep purple silk hessian
Top; the loose drape top, modified, from drape drape by Hisako Sato, white cotton jersey, details here
Shoes; Zomp, from Zomp shoe boutique
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High-waisted apricot skirt

20/02/2015 5:31 am \ 63 Comments \

I’ve made a new skirt; a high-waisted, knee-length straight skirt, with a self-belt, long double belt loops and in-seam arrow welt pockets.  This is skirt 114 from the Solo in White collection from Burda style magazine 04/2014.  I’ve waxed lyrical about this collection previously just because of the dreamy colour palette, but a closer perusal of the design lines had me lost in admiration anew for the designs themselves.  This is now the third piece I’ve made from the collection; others here and here.  May not be the last either, because all pieces are quite lovely; classical but still with their own interesting little twist.  Honestly, it has to be said; Burda magazines are simply the hands down best value for money around.
The fabric is from the Fabric Store in Melbourne, bought during my last trip there with Mum and Cassie.  I think it’s a linen/something mix, woven of various thickness fibres, stiff-ish and almost like thin upholstery fabric.  I didn’t think it too thick for the slightly more complex sewing required of those arrow welt pockets, and think they turned out ok.  I got the skirt pieces cut out of my piece with the barest of scraps to spare.  Honestly, my wastage was less than a scrunched handful of fabric.  Win!!!  After cutting the pieces I overlocked all edges before doing a single other thing, because it frays like a madman.

Changes: I cut a size 40 at the hips grading into a size 38 at the waist.  In fitting to myself I ended up taking a little bit more off each edge at the waist.
I cut my pocket pieces to be substantially bigger than the pattern piece.  My one gripe with Burda patterns is that the pocket pieces are nearly always laughably small.  Or do I have giant flipper hands?  Ummm, probably the latter!
Another small gripe I have with this style of skirt is that the in-seam pockets are frequently situated too close to the CF for my liking, and so when you’ve got your hands in your pockets you end up feeling like you’ve got your hands sitting coyly and weirdly right over your crotch.  Hate that!  So I cut my skirt pieces so the front piece was 4cm wider at the CF, and folded 2cm down the centre of each side front piece.  This moved the seams 2cm further out to each side, which is just enough to make hands-in-pockets feel not so weird to me.

I fully lined the skirt with cream coloured polyacetate from Fabulous Fabrics, mostly because my fabric has some stiff and sharp fibres in it that I could imagine over time would become scratchy and super annoying against soft tummy skin.  Lining pieces are not provided with the pattern, but it’s easy enough to make a lining; by splicing the front pieces together along the seam lines, cutting from the facing allowance down; and folding the width difference in along the top as a pleat.  The back dart allowance can also be folded as a pleat in the lining.

I cut the facing and pocket pieces from pale yellow polycotton, and pieced the pocket with a strip of the self-fabric at the opening edge, so that is what shows if the insides are glimpsed during wear.

The instructions for the in-seam arrow welt pockets, contained in those for skirt 113, are quite difficult to follow; I was thinking vaguely of doing a little pictorial here to illustrate how they are done.  Maybe.
Anyway, that’s it!  It’s still too hot for this skirt yet, but I’m happy to tuck it away in the wardrobe, awaiting some lovely cool weather.  I bought some perfectly matching fabric to make a top to go with it too, so should get on to that thing next.  Ever onwards!

Details:
Skirt; Burda style 04/2014-114, apricot/cream linen/cotton woven
Top; adapted from the loose drape top from drape drape, by Hisako Sato, cream jersey knit, details here
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp boutique

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Cassie’s Christmas ensemble

29/12/2014 6:04 am \ 44 Comments \

So, this year I asked Cassie what she would like for Christmas and she replied without hesitation, a long, white skirt.
Alrighty then!
I bought both fabrics at my local Spotlight; I considered buying Melbourne fabric like I did for the boys but reasoned that I could probably find nice enough white fabric at home.  So fortunate then that I did!  I was particularly thrilled with these finds.  The overlayer is a sheer cotton muslin and the lining/underlayer is a cotton voile; both light and airy and quite beautifully soft.  I really like how the layers of sheers and seams give a kind of “striped” effect to the outfit.
Honestly, Spotlight really can be such a hit or miss affair, so thank goodness for a hit.  A very palpable hit!  Random pop quiz; Can you name that quote…?
I used Butterick 3134; a very useful basic multi-gored skirt pattern and selected the six-gore option.  I cut it longer and flared out the lower edge a little more, for a nice swish.  I cut the lining/underlayer skirt using the spliced together pieces of Vogue 1247, lengthened, and put an invisible zip in the left side seam.  All French seams throughout, including that zip seam.  
Incidentally, I took a few pictures of doing the zip French seam in a sheer fabric, and can write a tut for anyone who is interested?  
I had enough fabric leftover to cut out a little blouse/top for her also, so she has a complete ensemble.  The little cropped blouse is a cut down version of NewLook 6483 with the sleeves lengthened.
Only the bodice of the top is lined and also French seams everywhere with only the armscye seams of the little top finished on the overlocker.  I’ve found that I’m really enjoying finishing my seams using more traditional methods lately and resorting to using the overlocker less and less.
Phew!  I have to confess I started making this outfit at the crack of dawn on Christmas Eve and finished it at about 6.30pm that evening.  It was a frantic race to the finish!  But it was worth it to see Cassie looking so lovely and summery and fresh and pretty in her outfit on Christmas Day.

Details:
Top; NewLook 6483 modified by cropping bodice and lengthening sleeves, white muslin and voile
Skirt; Butterick 3134, lengthened and lined with spliced-together Vogue 1247 lining, white muslin and voile
Sandals; 2 baia vista, from Zomp shoes

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a ladylike skirt

31/10/2014 6:52 am \ 34 Comments \

I have lots of “little” skirts, but it’s nice to have some longer, looser, wider skirts too.  To be more refined, relaxed, ladylike and elegant, and less, er, whatever I was before.  This pattern is Burdastyle 02/2014, 106, and delivers the required dose of elegance quite nicely, I think.
Even in an annoyingly brisk breeze that turned up, just at the right time to buffet it about in my pictures here!  The wind tried, but never once did I come anywhere near doing a Marilyn in any of my shots.  Thank goodness for that!  Ladylike personified.  Or, should I say, skirtified?  Yeah, I think maybe I should  😉
So, yes, it is looking a bit windblasted here, but that’s “real” or whatever.   My fabric is a mid-heavyweight, richly creamy-coloured satin remnant from Fabulous Fabrics; I suspect from the bridal section.  Probably if I’d made it up in the suggested brocade it would hang properly smart with the big box pleats standing out nice and stiffly-straight and looking just like the one on the magazine cover, at right, but I think that the luxurious feel of the satin rippling and swishing against my legs is a happy bonus.

The skirt is pretty simple; wide, deeply pleated skirt sections attached to a fitted, curved yoke.  The pattern is super straightforward, all going together very easily and quickly.  I would describe this as fast gratification; a nicely stress-free project.
There are two views to the pattern; the other, illustrated in the line drawing, is a more complex version with a bigger rectangular piece of fabric pleated over the yoke as an over layer.  This feature you can just make out on the magazine cover, above, at right.  I made the simplified version with plain yoke because hello, remnant.

I lined the yoke in ivory polycetate lining fabric, also from Fabulous Fabrics, and used an off-white invisible zip in the CB seam.  I wanted the skirt to be as long as long as I possibly could make it, and managed to cut the skirt pieces to be about 10cm longer than the pattern.  Then hemmed as stingily and as meanly as humanly possibly, by stitching to the lower edge a bias cut strip of pale ivory/yellow cotton voile in a very narrow 2/8″ seam.   This enabled me to only turn up a mere 2/8″ of my satin but still to have a nice deep hem.  The hem is slip-stitched by hand.

the least windy of the pictures…
Details:
Skirt; Burdastyle 02/2014-106, ivory/cream satin
Cardigan;  Audrey in Unst knitted by me, in 4ply poll dorset bought in Paris while shopping with Donna, details here
um, I’m not sure if or how I’m supposed to do this, but just in case…
Disclaimer; this pattern was given to me by Burdastyle; however I chose it myself from the large range of patterns on offer because I liked it.  All opinions are most definitely my own.  There are no affiliate links on my blog and never will be…  I’m in it because I love sewing  🙂 
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pink

17/09/2014 12:57 am \ 24 Comments \

I’ve rejigged these strawberry pink jeans into a skirt.  I made the jeans two years ago using an Au Bonheur des petites mains pattern courtesy of shams, thank you shams!  There’s lots of things I liked about the jeans; they were so comfortable and easy to wear, I loved the detailing on the pockets and seams but my little measuring stuff up re the positioning of the knee piece had always kinda bothered me whenever I happened to glance down and notice it.  So I hadn’t been wearing them, even though I lurrrve this delicious colour so much.

It’s pretty easy making a skirt from jeans, even avoiding like the plague those versions with the J-curve crotch portion of jeans top-stitched down on the front of a skirt and a big triangular insert plonked underneath.  No offence if you love that sort of thing, but I just do not.  I prefer for a skirt to look like a skirt.

I followed the same basic concept I did for my previous jeans to skirt refashion.  I cut out the offending knee patches and discarded them altogether; the 3D-ness of them made them too difficult to incorporate into a skirt, without looking uber-weird.  The front of the skirt is essentially straight from the hips down and the back has two flared sections in the centre lower part to give it a bit of a kick at the back.  And to enable me to stride in a brisk and purposeful manner, unfettered by a tight skirt.  
I like this shape, how the skirt appears very straight up and down from the front but has plenty of leg movement because of those flared bits. And I’m happy it’s got a new lease on life.  This colour!  It just screams spring, yes?  Yuuuum!

Details:
Top; from Pattern Magic 3, ivory cotton jersey, details here
Skirt; from au bonheur des petites mains jeans, strawberry cotton denim
Shoes; bensimon, from seed boutique

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