Tag Archives: Top

Horrible colour, begone

18/07/2011 7:30 am \ 22 Comments \

So, as I mentioned last post, colour…

Exhibit one; some grey synthetic knit stuff from the remnant bin.  Remnant bins are a terrible trap really, aren’t they?, the fabrics within can be so tempting pricewise, and the truth is they might not be very “you” at all.  So in a moment of madness I was swayed by this mottle-y grey fluffy stuff and brought it home, and eventually got around to making up a top and donned it, and it looked more than a bit awful.  No I wouldn’t even take a picture of myself to show here on the blog; I looked pale, and ill, and … awful.  The shape of the top was OK and I liked the monastic roughness of the fabric combined with the simplicity of the silhouette, it was just the colour that was the problem here…  So it was off to check out the dye section.  I was pretty sure the fibre composition here was mostly synthetic, so I bought iDye Poly for synthetics, in Yellow.

Et voila!

I was just hoping to just get a more yellow-y shade of grey out of this that would be more flattering to my complexion; but imagine my delight at this wonderful moss-y green that resulted!  Obviously the grey had far more blue in it than I realised, and I’m sure we all remember from our paint mixing days in art class at school that blue + yellow = green.  This is a prime (haha!) example right here…

Construction details; I drafted the top using one of my other Tshirts as a guide.  The fabric remnant I had was cut off at a funny angle, necessitating the curved lower front hem. I matched this curve on the other side of the front, but I left the back pieces straight for a contrasting hemline.  Initially I meant to curve the back hem too, but I think I like that contrast now.  Both lower hems are unfinished, and after more than a few washings that the garment received during the dyeing process, I can report the happily un-fray/ravel-abe nature of the raw edges of this knit.  However I did handstitch the sleeve hems in a rolled edge.  The neckline, well I tried to be sort of clever here, and apply a bias binding that would both enclose and stabilise the shoulder seams inside, and as well as finishing the back neckline.  This turned out to be a trickier exercise than I thought to achieve my desired effect, but I think I pulled it off.  The front neckline is rolled to the outside in a tight little roll, and hand-stitched down.  (these pictures taken before dyeing, obviously!)

Final summary; well to think I started out with fabric that was, let’s face it, a bad purchase since I wouldn’t have bought this fabric at full price off the roll, and then finally managed to get something that I am actually happy with; ultimately a successful project.  I’m still not in complete love with the fabric, it is a tad cheap and scratchy but the new colour is so wonderful, and was a far more perfect-for-me colour than I was hoping for.
On that note, does anybody know of a good source of pure wool knit fabrics…?

Details:
top; my own design, from (originally) grey synthetic knit stuff dyed using iDye Poly in Yellow
Jeans; Burda 7863 with some modifications, purple stretch denim, details here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

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Pattern Magic twist top; take 3

14/07/2011 4:51 am \ 27 Comments \

So, I had originally bought this heavy cream knit stuff with the intention of re-creating exactemente the dress on the cover envelope of Vogue 1087 (below, right), and obviously got disenchanted with the idea since it sat in my stash uncut… and I did start to think, do I really need another dress, when my winter lifestyle is more oriented towards separates, and since doing Me-Made June I have identified a need for tops not dresses… Luckily, creamy coloured stretchy stuff is not that sort of demanding fabric that is only going to suit one and one only type of garment, and so I changed tack.  Hehe, actually not a hugely surprising turnabout since this twist top from the Pattern Magic book is a pattern I have made up twice before and adore, and the colour is hardly a break-away for me either, but still!  I’m in love with this new top already…
I’m sure you are wondering what this intriguingly sculptural one-pattern-piece top looks like when it is laid flat…  no?  Well, since I have just brought it up and no doubt piqued your curiosity, I shall now proceed to satisfy it… kind of me, no?  Below is my older, but the same pattern, charcoal top, now washed and worn for about a year now so maybe has got a tiny tad mis-shapen over the last year, but you get the idea….  When it is on those skewiff details pull the top in to hug one’s body beautifully and make for a very flattering silhouette.   The cream jersey I have used to make this new version is quite a bit stiffer than the charcoal, and has less stretch, so getting it on is kind of a struggle.  But once it is on it feels great!  I do love a firm snug top, especially in the winter time.

Details:
Top; the twist top from Pattern Magic, by Tomoko Nakamichi, heavy cream knit stuff from Knitwit
Skirt; skirt “d” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, silver grey crepe, details here, and to see this skirt styled in 6 different ways go here
Tights; Kolotex
Shoes; Django and Juliette, from Zomp shoes

(below; a spectator…)

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It’s very windy…

09/06/2011 10:20 am \ 15 Comments \

… thus the crazy hair.
I’ve made a new top, but it’s not extravagantly exciting in either cut or construction.  Not even a Pattern Magic thing, sorry, though in my own defence this was already half finished before I even got my new Pattern Magic 2 book, plus those pattern magic designs do use more fabric than your average unadorned garment, and I had very minimal fabric to play with here.  It was squeezed out of the leftovers from this dress, and is basically the top part of a dress pattern from Burdastyle magazine 08/2009, number 128 seen in full here (and my review of this pattern also)  So just a little basic Tshirt thing that will hopefully be a useful little winter wardrobe builder.  I cut the body pieces as long as I could get them from my fabric scraps, and the front piece ended up a little longer than the back.  I like this though and decided to leave it this way, and left a little open slit up each of the side seams and hemmed around the corners.  It is not lined, but has uninterfaced, understitched front and back neckline facing, which extends to the shoulder seam and halfway down around each armscye.  The top has a long invisible zip up the centre back seam so I can get it on.
(Later edit: removed the zip; the fabric is slightly stretchy so the top can just be pulled over my head)
And I’ve made this new scarf too, this is just a couple of long skinny lengths of this rather luscious deep-raspberry coloured thin jersey knit that I picked up from the remnant bin, joined together in a French seam.  Voila.  Two embarrassingly short seams and one has a new scarf.  Couldn’t be easier.  Don’t you just looove this colour?

Details:
Top; the top part of Burdastyle magazine 08/2009, dress 128, of charcoal wool mix, my review of this pattern here
Skirt; my own design; charcoal jersey knit, details here
Scarf; just two skinny lengths of raspberry marle jersey knit, joined together with a French seam
Tights; Metalicus
Socks; handknit by me, details here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

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Colourblock, eh?

23/03/2011 4:26 am \ 18 Comments \

This is one of the new things I’ve made in my stash’n’scrap busting efforts; a new top.  Getting rid of two more smallish pieces of fabric…!  
The rust coloured corduroy used for the body is the leftover from these jeans.  I really love both making and wearing corduroy jeans, but the fabric width is just than little bit too narrow so that you have to buy twice your leg length to make a pair of jeans, because of the fabric nap.  And this means a couple of large chunks of leftovers.  Not to worry, I’m nothing if not diligent about using up those scraps as usefully as I can.
The purple sleeves are the very last leftovers from this dress.  (And I assure you the sleeves are exactly the same length, in spite of the funny way I am obviously posing…)
I know I’m going to love this top.  About three years ago I made another corduroy Tshirt that I wore a heap during winter, and was pretty darn sad when I spilled something down the front and it finally had to go.  Don’t know why it’s taken me this long to replace it, actually…  It is a laughably simple design, just rectangles of fabric with armholes cut into the body of the Tshirt, and bit of a boatneck-line scooped out, and long flat sleeve caps on the top of the tubular sleeves, measured and cut to fit the armhole lengths of the body.  Faced the neckline from other scraps.  Hemmed.  Done.  Simple and very easy to wear.

And happily fashionable.  My eye was caught by this outfit from Bally… quite similar, no? although this is a dress, and my outfit is a skirt and top.  I really this look of solid blocks of strong colour stacked up on top of each other; a look reminiscent of children’s building blocks, simple, colourful, a bit fun and interesting.  The extra plus for the self seamstress is that these simple unstructured shapes are so easy to sew, and the different blocks of colour are tailor-made (haha, a little joke there…) for using up scraps…

Details:
Top; my own design, rust corduroy and purple raw silk sleeves
Skirt; Vogue 7303, orange raw silk, details here
Shoes; Perrini, had for ages
Sunnies; RayBan
Nail varnish; Pouty Purple, BYS

At right, from Bally Spring/Summer 2011, here

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Smoky scraps, and a collar

17/03/2011 6:53 am \ 16 Comments \

This little top made out of the scraps from Craig’s new shirt is one of my New Things; mental run-through of them yesterday and I realised this was totally appropriate for hot weather, plus went well with this little skirt that itself is the result of scraps…  Actually (lightbulb moment), my entire outfit here is made from the leftover scraps from shirts I have made for Craig…  the skirt out of the leftovers from this shirt and this shirt…
Hmmm
I’m going to be giving myself a complex…  with all the talk of feminism floating about; what would a feminist make of the fact that I am clothing myself from my husband’s scraps?!?

Details:
Top; adaption of top “a”, Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, leftover shot cotton
Skirt; my own design, leftover linen scraps, inspired by a Celine skirt, details here
Sandals; Micam by Joanne Mercer, Hobbs shoes

Sewing details; should you be interested…
I had only the tiniest amount of fabric, so took out the pattern for top “a” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like (Natsuno Hiraiwa) which uses very little fabric.  

A little experimenting with the top I’ve already made from this pattern gave the gratifying knowledge I could get it on without having to undo the buttons; fabulous, as there wasn’t really enough fabric for the button band.  There definitely wasn’t enough fabric for those long shoulder ties, but there was just enough that I thought I could get a little straight foldover collar out of that strip that was left…
This is so easy, here’s a short how-to…
Simply measure around the entire neckline (not just half of the front, as I’ve misleadingly pictured here), remembering to allow for that seam allowance by measuring 1cm in from the edge.  Cut a strip of fabric to this width, plus seam allowance (I had just enough from that top little bit of fabric, yay!)

Sew the short edges of the band together to form a loop.

Attach right sides together to the neckline…

and fold over to the inside, slip-stitch in place, then topstitch on the outside for a nice neat finished appearance.

The inside seams are all French seams.

The armholes were finished with self bias binding.  Luckily you only need a miniature amount of fabric to make your own bias binding, so it’s usually pretty easy as well as cheaper, and it looks nice, to make it out of your leftover scraps to finish your garment.

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Burda 7834, a pattern review

09/02/2011 6:03 am \ 17 Comments \

I’ve made another little top using Burda 7834.  It is such a quick and easy little pattern, I can see myself using it a few more times, in spite of the fact I will have to re-grade it each time I use it, as Cassie cut it out to a smaller size than I use…  well, it is her pattern so I suppose that is OK…!
This top is using up some scraps; the silver-grey portion is the last leftovers from this skirt, and the contrasting stripe detail was juuuust squeezed out from the the remaining fabric from this shirt.  Oooh, I just feel so undeservedly virtuous and pat-myself-on-the-back-ish when I use up some leftovers…!  like I’ve been a really good greenie and I’m doing just a tiny weensie little bit to Do My Bit in the planetary scheme of things.  As well as satiating my inner scrooge, by getting a free top from otherwise rubbish-y little scraps!
The funny thing about this top along with its apricot mate, that I made the previous weekend, is that although they are entirely different colours, I used exactly the same topstitching thread, and the same colour zip for both tops; pale grey.  How’s that for weird?  Assessing the zips available, this colour was the logical choice in each case…  which goes to show… something, I don’t know what.  Probably nothing.  Except that colour matching follows no hard and fast rules and can be a purely subjective exercise.
So, on to the review…

Pattern Description
Loose-fitting, short kimono sleeved, V-neck top with a central back zip, and separate pieces for arm bands, neckline band and under-bust band
Pattern Sizing
6-16, European 32-42; I made a size 10
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you had finished sewing it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
yes
What did you particularly like/dislike about the pattern?
I like that it is a very quick and easy pattern, and makes up a cute little top.
I was only a little unhappy that (when the instructions are followed) it is not finished to super high standards on the inside.  For example, the side seam allowances end up visible on the underarm sleeve edge, whilst I would prefer for them to be encased within the two layers of the sleeve band.  Also, the neckline band at the back has to be folded back over the zip tape and doesn’t enclose it within the two layers, which would be a preferable and neater finish.    However if you don’t mind a bit of extra fiddling you can adjust these features to be more well finished off on the inside.  If you are just after a quick and easy little top and aren’t really worried much about perfect insides, then the method given is just fine.
Just an extra thought; doing up the central back zip might be awkward for some who are no longer super agile.
Fabric used:
I’ve made this up once in crushed silk and once in a synthetic stuff with contrasting cotton mix bands, but I think any crisp light blouse fabrics would be perfect.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
None.
Would you sew this again?  Would you recommend this to others?
Definitely I will sew this again, and I do recommend it to others.
Conclusion:
A nice and simple little top, both in looks and construction.  A useful casual wardrobe-builder to have in your collection.

btw, I just have to say something here, my own opinion… occasionally I come across a review in Pattern Review where under “were the instructions easy to follow?” a reviewer writes something like “didn’t even look at the instructions, lol!” or something equally breezy and dismissive.  In such cases I have to confess I usually read no further as (imo) this is not a review but a seamstress being a bit of a show-off, like the instructions are beneath his/her notice.  If you are not going to even read the pattern instructions, let alone assess them, then your “review” is worth nothing.  There are going to be some beginner seamstress’ out there who will want to know if the instructions have any difficult or unusual techniques, or nasty surprises, etc., before they fork out the money to buy the pattern.   I always thought this was the purpose of Pattern Review, but I get the feeling a few see it as a forum to showcase their creations, nothing wrong with that per se, but we have BurdaStyle for that purpose.  If the instructions are basic and easy to follow, then just say so without the condescending attitude.  Just saying…

Details:
Top; Burda 7834, silver grey crepe-y stuff with striped cotton mix contrasting bands
Shorts; Burda 7723, white linen
Thongs; Mountain Design
Sunnies; RayBan

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Plain and simple

04/02/2011 8:12 am \ 16 Comments \

I was thinking of calling myself Plain Jane today; but didn’t want to offend any Janes out there.  I’m sure Janes have suffered enough, having a phrase like that readymade and just waiting to be lobbied at them whenever they care to step out looking minimalist and unadorned.  In fact, the existence of the plain-Jane tag, whilst handy for the English teacher to demonstrate assonance, has probably caused a lot of Janes to go to great lengths to ensure they look fabulous and decidedly un-plain on a daily basis.  An example I look to is my own friend Jane who is one of the most glamourous women I know.  Sorry, Janes, I shouldn’t have even mentioned it…
When I put on this top this morning I was determined to wear it the other way around, with the buttons at the front.  After all, it is designed to be worn both ways, and I wanted this versatility when I made it.  But I decided I don’t really like it that way, and switched it around yet again.  I really should force myself to wear it the other way around more…   
Once upon a time, I would not have made nor worn something like this top, because I had a thing that a loose-fitting garment would not flatter my figure.  But really, what does that matter?  And what does it mean?  Looking through the pictures in this pattern book I could see that the girls modelling looked lovely in the loose comfortable clothes, and so I went ahead and made them up.  And the important thing here should be about how you feel in your clothes, as much as about whether you look nice or not.  If not, we may as go back to the days of the corset…
So, maybe today is a bit plain and minimally coloured and embellished, but essentially I am cool and comfortable.  In this kind of scorching heat; these are my priorities!

Details:
Top; top “b” from Unique Clothes Any Way You Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white cotton
Skirt; my own design, charcoal jersey knit
Sandals; Vincenza from Soletta shoes
Necklace; from the surf shop on Rottnest Island (another souvenir of a great holiday!)
Bag; Gucci
Nail varnish; Revlon Crimson Sparkle
Sunnies: RayBan

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Some new stuff

02/02/2011 10:12 am \ 17 Comments \

Since I picked out some photos from Oregon yesterday, I thought it the appropriate day to wear and show the souvenirs I bought whilst there… and then I also remembered and pulled out this new top that I finished only just before we left on our holiday but didn’t get a chance to photograph for posterity.
The top is made from some of my Christmas fabric; a crushed shot silk from Fabulous Fabrics.  It is woven with a brilliant orange weft onto a bright turquoise warp.  It never fails to amaze me how such bright bright colours when interwoven in this way can result in such a dullish coloured surface.  As well, the fabric doesn’t look as glossy as I have come to expect with silk.  Because I am suspicious by nature I did a quick burn test to check if it really was silk or a synthetic masquerading as such, and it passed.  So I presume the reason for the lack of silky sheen is that the crushed nature of the fabric breaks up the surface plane resulting in smaller areas to catch and reflect the light at any point of view. 

The pattern is Burda 7834, a little top pattern Cassie bought and made for herself and which I snuck out of her collection to use for myself… because I liked hers so much, hehe.  She had cut out an 8 for her own top, but it was a pretty simple matter to grade the necessary areas up to a 10 to fit me.
So I really should do a review here of this great little pattern… buuut I’m not.  Sorry.  Maybe later.  Been feeling a little flat and exhausted since we got back actually… not sure whether to blame the heat or post-holiday let-down.  Or just me…
And you probably can’t tell from this photo above, but it is blowing a bonafide gale here.  Even standing within the sheltering boughs of this tree we are being buffeted about by insanely strong eddies… and I was really timing the photography here to coincide as much as possible with a lull between gusts to avoid looking too hilariously windswept.  Man, I’d forgotten how blustery it can get on the foreshore in the afternoon…
Oh and please note Sienna’s lovely new professional do.  She has had a visit from the mobile doggie beauty salon and especially wanted to show the results off here today…  Doesn’t she look absolutely gorgeous?? a bit better than the hack job from before, hehe.

The pendant on my necklace is a tiny real pine cone that is encased in gold.  Isn’t it beautiful?  I really don’t go for accessories in a huge way, but when I do they tend to be small in scale and delicate.  Large scale chunky jewellery annoys me big-time, and I have to force myself to wear the bigger pieces I do have.  I once read something in a Trinny and Susannah book about accessorising, where they decreed (as they do) that women with large bones should gravitate to large scale jewellery and small-boned women will feel more comfortable with small scale jewellery.  So maybe this means I have small bones; although I have to confess I’ve always thought of myself as tall and big-boned; with “child-bearing hips” as they used to say… so I don’t know really!
The earrings have stones in them that are called Mount St Helens emeralds, although of course they are not actually emeralds at all, but really made from fused ash from the volcanic eruption.  So, yeah, just regular green glass …  But still pretty, and uniquely from that part of the world.

Details:
Top; Burda 7834, crushed shot silk
Skirt; Skirt “m” from Unique Clothes Any WayYou Like, by Natsuno Hiraiwa, pink/grey linen mix
Shoes; Perrini, had forever
Sunnies; RayBan
Necklace and earrings; bought in central Oregon USA

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