Monthly Archives: May 2017

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named maisa denim jean jacket

O hey!

What am I doing? not much, just hanging around in my new jean jacket that until very recently was actually a few pairs of ancient old jeans!!!  OHYEAH!

A jeans-to-jean-jacket project has been a long-term “thing” in my little bucket list of refashions that I have in my head. and one of the reasons I’ve been collecting my children’s old jeans for only like, forever… recently I was asked to speak at the 20th anniversary celebrations of Australian Sewing Guild, a huge honour! and in the general chit-chat heard mention of their Castaway to Couture competition… where you take some cruddy cast-off clothing and transform it into something new and spectacular of course; obviously my ears pricked up … I LOVE wardrobe refashioning!!  I really the challenge and the FUN of repurposing old unwanted fabrics into something new, and I love the good self-backpatty feeling you get from being economical and not wasteful, in both the money sense as well as in the planetary resources sense as well.  I’ve done quite a lot of it in my time but not for a while… I mentioned my intention to participate in the comp on IG back on the 2nd May, and knew straight away I would finally get on with my “bucket list” jeans-to-jacket. The only things I bought for this were the buttons!

before…

after…

I used the Named patterns Maisa denim jacket pattern, and three pairs of my children’s old jeans, above.  Actually, technically I used only two and a half pairs of jeans, which I feel pretty good about!  I picked out the most similarly coloured ones, for a cohesive look, and the widest legged one in my stash; pretty sure these were all Tim’s, he used to rock the wide legged style A LOT!  I needed the wide legs so I could cut out the widest pattern pieces such as those upper sleeves.  A few pieces, like the hem bands, the collar, and the back yoke were too wide, so I had to cut these laying up and down the leg.. i.e. cutting across the grain, rather than on grain.

While I lurve a patchy aesthetic to my clothing, and of course the beauty of a thing like a jean jacket is that it’s supposed to look a bit beat up and NOT a work of beautifully tailored perfection…  I still wanted it to look at least a little bit intentional and not too bunged together.  There was plenty of colour variation even within each single pair of jeans as well as fashionable distressing effects everywhere too, so I carefully cut so as to make sure the colour variations were matched symmetrically all over the jacket, for example; the upper arms are cut from the same area of one pair, the side fronts also both from the same area of another pair, ditto the two side backs, etc etc, so as much as I possibly could the lighter blue areas are balanced out nicely and symmetrically with the darker blue areas on the jacket.

I think this resulted in a fairly cohesive look, one that hopefully doesn’t scream “MADE FROM CRUDDY OLD JEANS” anyway.

I only kept ONE thing that even vaguely hints that this is a recycled product;  for one of the cuff facings I unpicked a rear pocket from one pair of jeans and cut the facing for a cuff from this area…  it’s just facing, so it’s on the inside and can’t be seen unless I roll up the cuffs.  But I like that it’s secretly tucked away in there  🙂

For near total re-cycling, I even re-used the pocket lining of one of the pair of jeans for the new pocket lining of my jacket! well, it was a rather nice blue plaid and after unpicking the coin pocket there was just enough for my own new pockets.

Oh, yes, pockets!  The Maisa doesn’t come with pockets like this; it does have two breast pockets but funnily enough I really prefer pockets that you can actually put things in and also take them out easily… so I decided to see if I could wrangle some hip pockets in there somehow.  And I did!

I made two little welt pockets situated in the front/side front seams.  On the inside, the bottoms of the pockets are sandwiched inside the button bands, for a neat look on the inside.  They do work… however they’re not perfect by any means! because they do happen to have a button and a buttonhole respectively at the bottom edge of each one! hmmm, yes well… that was unavoidable.  Maybe, just maybe a bit of a hacking fail, however I’m really really glad still that I’ve got them.  I knew it was a risk since the cutting lines in the front of the jacket are very close to the centre front, and a pocket like this would work better if the seams were situated further out towards the side seams OR if the front closed with an open ended zip instead.  Both criteria would have given a better result…  BUT well, we live and learn…  at the very least I can put a little bit of stuff in them, so not a complete and utter fail! I’m ok with them, and they do work!  🙂

Thoughts on the pattern: description says a classic, unlined, button-down denim jacket with collar; short and loose-fitting design with flap pockets at the front; sleeve vents and wide button cuffs, wide band at the hem.  Well, hmmm, I’m not going to start ranting about my pet hate; the incorrect use of the term “button-down”.  Noooo, I’m not.  Apart from that! everything else about the pattern is pretty awesome.  A slight negative; it is a bit more loose-fitting than I anticipated.  Not 80’s loose, but still pretty loose.  I’m ok with it really… I will certainly wear it anyway! it’s so comfy and feels absolutely fantastic on! plus I’m only wearing it over a thin little Tshirt here and of course a bit of oversizedness is a good thing when I’ll want to wear it over cardigans or long-sleeved woolly tops in the winter.  I think when I get a little time I might have a go at re-jigging the pattern to be a little more form-fitting, for the future.  I still have plenty of pairs of jeans that need refashioning, so a second, differently styled jean jacket might even happen.  One which even has bigger and better functioning hip pockets!

Design decisions:  all the raw edges are finished with overlocking in dark blue thread, and I double top-stitched all seam allowances down with two different colours of thread; a coppery brown, and a creamy ivory.  These are both Gutermann upholstery thread, I actually prefer this to topstitching thread because A) it is tougher and B) it is less prone to fraying, so is easier to thread a needle with it.  I’ve used it for all my previous jeans, as well as for all my Alabama Chanin projects too, of course.  I decided to go with the two different colours, because it’s a detail I’ve noticed in some rtw jeans that I like a lot.

For the breast pockets: I originally double topstitched these in the two differently coloured threads too, however it just didn’t look very nice.  To be honest, something about the curved edge; cup-shaped pocket shapes topstitched onto the front just suggested “topstitched boobs”, to me.  Maybe that’s just me being weird… but I couldn’t stand it and unpicked the ivory and restitched the second line in the same copper brown as the first, as above.  It’s less obtrusive now and I think looks better.  Sorry, if that all sounds super weird, but just saying….

Some purely gratuitous details shots…

cuff topstitching and bar tack…

collar …

topstitching …

breast pocket…

waistband…

Details:

Jacket; Named patterns Maisa jacket, made from old pairs of jeans
Skirt; Vogue 1247, details here
Tshirt; Closet Case patterns Nettie bodysuit, white jersey, details here
Shoes; made by me and my own design, details here

  

location: the sundial at Cottesloe beach, Western Australia

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purple-y Jade mini skirt, 6 different ways

During another of my sometimes brutal wardrobe clean outs, I parted ways with this little purple skirt… I have to admit it was a little gut-wrenching to get rid of this one because it had only been in existence for one sad little winter, albeit a glorious one, since I wore it at least once every week!  Aah! little purple mini skirt, the light that burns twice as bright burns but half as long… and your light has burned so very very bright…  *

I made it in a purple wool/silk knit from KnitWit, using the Paprika patterns Jade skirt… and it was such a devastatingly useful, mix-and-match-tastic item of clothing! actually as all sludgy coloured little mini skirts are.  Sadly, the knit, while a gorgeous colour, of a lovely weighty thickness and with a magnificent “quality” feel and texture to it, didn’t have a huge amount of recovery… and I’d used a VERY stretchy black poly for lining it, some leftovers from my tights! if I recall correctly!  Definitely not sturdy enough to give the purple knit the backbone it needed, so the whole thing got floppy quite quickly.  Toward the end of winter I actually worried a bit that it would at some point slide slowly and gracefully south down my smooth, black-tights clad legs to my ankles and become a rather gorgeous purple hobble…. haha wouldn’t that be glamorous/fabulous/amusing… NOT.

Anyway, because it’s been that good I thought I’d give it a little farewell party… the fact that I only wore it for one winter and still found six outfits where it is paired with almost totally different items of clothing in each one is testament to its versatility!  Also, since these were all taken during my Year of Handmade; you know, that year in which I wore ONLY clothing and shoes made by myself, ahem…I made every single blinking thing I am wearing in each of these photos, which is why the black boots appear in so many outfits, sorry…

Links to all construction posts provided  🙂

Below: at left; with its matching top, charcoal gloves, black tights, black boots
At right; with ivory top, blue cardigan, navy cardigan, purple scarf, charcoal glovesnavy tights, black boots

Below, at left: with charcoal twist top, raspberry tights, black boots;
At right; with pink jumper, green scarf, lime green hand warmers, black tights, black boots

Below at left: with ivory top, grey coat, raspberry scarf, black tightsblack boots
at right: with coffee Tshirt, striped jumper, black tights, black oxford shoes

Ok, so it’s awff to the sewing room… because clearly I need a new one …

* Blade Runner, after Lao Tzu

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deep teal, suedette dove blouse

Hey!

I’ve made a new blouse.  It’s the Dove blouse by Megan Nielsen patterns, in an lightweight but warm, faux suede from Spotlight.  So, the recommended fabrics for this pattern are shirt-weight stuff like voile and crepe de chine and chambray and linen… not a wintery fabric like this.  However, when have I ever taken any notice of fabric recommendations? Pretty much NEVER, haha.

And I love it.  Very very happy.  Look at those sleeves.  Oooo yeah.

this is a blouse that demands at least one dramatic arm pose

Now, remember how I mentioned pretty recently that I was looking out for this pattern??  Well, Evie, of Indie Stitches very kindly emailed me to let me know that she had one in stock… and offered to send it to me… thank you so much, Evie!  Indie Stitches is an online pattern store with a very nice range of both paper and digital patterns, obviously as the name suggests specialising in small and independent pattern makers like Closet Case Files, Grainline, Sewaholic, Jennifer Lauren Vintage, Papercut, By Hand London, Tilly and the Buttons, Waffle patterns, Megan Nielsen and would you believe this is just a selection?! There are many many more!  If you love supporting small independent pattern companies then I highly recommend heading over to the Indie Stitches pattern store and having a browse, at least.

Please note; I did receive this pattern gratis, however there are no affiliate links in this post.  I will always notify my readers if there is an affiliate link in my posts.  Also on a tangential yet related note, I read somewhere that people think bloggers are raking in the money through affiliate links, well! that may be true for some types of bloggers, like maybe fashion bloggers?  but sewing bloggers…  NO.

For the sleeves you do a triple-stitched skinny hem… it’s a hem finish I have used a few times before that gives a neat little baby hem but with no rippling or “lettuce-leaf” curling that you usually get with a single-stitched or machine-rolled hem… I think I read about it first years ago in an issue of Threads.  I wasn’t sure how it would work out with the slightly thickish suedette, but it did beautifully! and I had a request from my daughter and also from sewnewbee in IG as to how exactly is it done so I did a little sample and took a few pictures for a short tute…

I used a contrasting white thread here because I found you could barely make out a single thing in my pictures with the matching thread!  anyway:

First; stay-stitch at a distance of 6mm (1/4″) inside the raw edge, being super careful NOT to stretch out the edge while doing so.  This is the 1st row of stitching.

Turn the raw edge to the underside just outside the previous stitching, so the stitching sits just inside the pressed edge, and press.

Stitch again (the 2nd stitching) at a distance of 2-3mm  (1/8″) inside the pressed edge, and give it another quick press…

Trim away the raw edge as close to the 2nd stitching as you can.

Turn under this now extremely skinny, double stitched edge and stitch again (3rd stitching) right over the visible (2nd) row of stitching.  The first two lines of stitching help keep the hem from stretching out as you sew, so your edge will be nice and flat and with minimal “lettuce-leaf” curl along the edge.

Inside: looks almost like one row of stitching, but it is actually two; one over the top of the other

Right side has only one row of stitching… plus a very skinny, nicely non-curly edge achieved in a difficult to hem fabric  🙂

excuse me ma’am, your remote is showing

Details:

Blouse; Megan Nielsen Dove blouse MN2105, version 2, in petrol blue suedette
Skirt; Vogue 1247, yellow corduroy dyed brown, details here and my review of this pattern here
Tights; self-drafted, black polyester stretch, details here and my tutorial for making your own custom-fit tights pattern is here
Boots; made by me, and my own design, details here

location: South Perth foreshore, Western Australia

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a little bit of haute couture…

…haha, just kidding.  I’ve made some winter jammies for myself.

I bought this lovely, cosy, fluffy cotton flannelette from Spotlight months ago, actually during their 40% off everything sale in the height of summer, you know; when it’s so hot the thought of fluffy anything  is too awful to contemplate…  however it was rather fun to be able to choose from the full, pre-season range of prints and not just the end-of-season rejects like I normally do, ‘cos I shop at the beginning of winter when all the good stuff has all sold out … it really does pay to plan ahead!   Who knew?! I chose this cutie cute-ums woodland animal print… too adorable for words, hmmm?…  btw, cutesie little prints are not just for the kiddies.  Old hags like me are allowed to wear them too, y’know.  I almost bought a pink cupcake print, but this one does co-ordinate nicely with my fluffy slippers.  

One’s sleepwear must always co-ordinate with one’s pussycats too, a mandate not often mentioned in fashion must-does even though it’s pretty darn IMPERATIVE

gratuitous pussycat pic

Patterns: well, in the past I’ve used the old pair of pyjama bottoms for all my new ones, and I almost did this time too then I was suddenly like, hold up… I actually have a lovely new pyjama pattern, and one that was named FOR MEEEE!! still pinching myself that Heather was so kind…!  Obviously, the ol’ ego kicked in and held sway, and I made Carolyn pyjama bottoms.  🙂  I had to make them a little bit shorter due to not quite enough fabric … I didn’t take into account that my print was directional so I wouldn’t be able to flip the pattern pieces upside down! *kicking myself* I’ve previously made the shorts version of the pattern twice, here and here.

The top; well I used my standby Burdastyle 10-2009; 121 modified a bit… this time to have a higher, wider neckline with no centre front slit.  I’ve found in the past that having the low V-neckline in pyjamas, my chest actually gets quite cold in winter and I’ve resorted to wearing scarves over my pyjamas… ridiculous!!  so I cut the neckline high so my chest is covered up.  I’ve used this Burda pattern three times before… here, here, and here; twice for pyjama tops.  It’s pretty plain and boring and the easiest thing in the world to make up since you don’t even have to set in any sleeves… it’s basically like a completely shapeless flat sack with cut-on sleeves, sewn up.  I require very little by the way of fancy elegance in my pyjama tops, so boom, done!  I overlocked all the raw edges and topstitched the seam allowances down, like faux-flatfelled seams.

  

You may be forgiven for wondering… why hasn’t Carolyn used the Carolyn top pattern too? well, I did think about it, however I currently have other plans for that top awaiting in the wings; Rosie, @artworkerprojects on instagram has made so many beautiful versions of the pattern including this amazing dress.  This version is my favouritest of favourite Carolyns that I have ever EVER seen!  and I have the devious intention of shamelessly copying her… very soon, hehehe.

In the meantime… sweet dreams!

Details:

Top; Burda 10/2009;121, white cotton flannelette
Bottoms; Closet Case patterns Carolyn pyjamas, cotton flannelette
Slippers; made by me from floor mops, details here

Also, nothing to do with sewing, so yes, this is a little bit random … recipes make a very rare appearance here on my blog since cooking is not really my thing, but I’ve developed the perfect muesli!!  this is SO YUMMY that I just had to share.

I prefer a fruit-free muesli, and for years I’ve been a loyal fan of a commercial brand, until it suddenly and inexplicably changed the formula to have quite a noticeable and very strong vanilla flavour. This completely ruined it for me.  I been searching for another one, unsuccessfully… all the ones on the market here either have too much fat or sugar, or contain very highly process components like puffed rice; eww!  So I finally got proactive and made my own.

This recipe gives a very nutty and wholesome muesli, that is not sweet.  I LOVE IT.

Muesli

1/2 c pecans, roughly chopped
1/2 c flaked almonds
1/4 c sesame seeds
1/2 c pumpkin seeds
1/2 c sunflower seeds
1/4 c linseeds
1/4 c black chia seeds  (optional; I only included these because we happened to have some that needed using up)
3 c rolled oats

Dry toast each ingredient separately in a frying pan over low heat, using no oil.  The only exception is linseeds, which I’ve discovered will fly all over the place like popcorn so I don’t toast these!  Stir frequently while toasting to avoid burning, and tip each into the same bowl once toasted and before doing the next ingredient.  Do the rolled oats in batches.  Mix ’em all together and let the muesli cool completely before storing in an airtight container.

I like it best mixed with natural unsweetened yogurt… enjoy!

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golden brown


hello!  I’ve made this new blouse…  I was having trouble thinking of a way to describe the colour, since the only thing coming to my mind was those white puffball fungi that upon “puffing” send forth a little cloud of smelly spores that are just about exactly this colour.  Then Craig came to the rescue, suggesting “golden brown”  Oh, yes, that is SO much nicer!  Why is my brain sooo….? um, weird and mundane and lacking in poetic nuance?!

 

Fabric; a silk crepe from Tessuti fabrics in Melbourne, bought during a previous years’ trip over there with Mum and Cassie.  I’ve had it marinating in the stash all this time, awaiting the perfect blouse pattern.  I think this was happily, and accidentally, IT!

obligatory back view… 


Pattern; the Sudley by Megan Nielsen patterns. Tim and Sam gave it to me for Christmas, after I had requested the Dove blouse pattern.  Did I mention already that the Dove is perpetually sold out?? yes I believe I did.  Clearly my boys encountered the same issue that I have had …. timing, it seems, is everything!!  However, the Sudle is a nice little pattern, very simple, and I think I will use it a lot too.

This is actually the second Sudley I have made.  I also made a dress that has now been assigned to Cassie when I realised it was just going to be a little too, er, young for me.  I expect it’ll show up on ye olde blog here sometime…

 

Alterations:  The Sudley is a very young-at-heart style whereas I am more of a hoary-old-beast-at-heart; so I made a few minor design alterations to “old” it up a bit.   I opted for the plain neckline, and jazzed up the plain sleeves by running a loop of skinny elastic through the sleeve hems to gather them softly up, and made a separate bias rouleau loop “bow” which is purely decorative and just sewn on to the hem with a few firm stitches through all layers.

I also cut the lower hemline to have a curved “shirttail” line to it.  The hems and the neckline are all finished by hand, because I really wanted to have a smooth clean stitch-free expanse of fabric with absolutely no visible topstitching anywhere.  This is about as invisible as I could get.

Oh; one thing I did, which I would recommend for this type of neckline; you stay-stitch all around the neckline and the keyhole opening, obviously to stabilise it, however! to further help keep the neckline straight and true I kept a little bridge of fabric intact at the top front edges of the keyhole where the ties were to be attached, and maintained it throughout most of the blouse’s construction, and only cut through it at the very last minute, when turning and hand-stitching the bias binding down on the inside.  I think this simple precaution really helped to keep everything true.

All seams throughout are French seams, except for the armscye seams which I just ran through the overlocker to finish.  Picking my battles here!  This silk, while absolutely divine and a dream to wear, was actually not much fun to sew!  However!  The puffball spore, I mean, lovely golden-brown is a perfect colour for autumnal me, also I think this style of blouse suits me and I’m going to enjoy wearing it a lot.  It’s going to go with TONNES of my other clothes.

    

Details:

Top; MN2004 the Sudley blouse by Megan Nielsen patterns with minor modifications, silk crepe
Skirt; Vogue 1247, ivory curtaining fabric, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; made by me, my own design, details here

Skirt below; Vogue 8363, canvas, details here

Location: Eagle Bay, Western Australia

Wearing it out to dinner recently, with my “bookshelf” skirt.  I think they go together quite nicely!

And my clogs have received a much-needed makeover!  The ivory pleather part of the upper has got so worn and was starting to pull badly around where it was nailed to the soles…. I’d already fixed it once but finally acknowledged that if I wanted them to last a lifetime, and I think they can! then it was time for action.  One thing I’ve learnt about making my own shoes is that if something needs a little mending or attention then it REALLY pays to get onto it very quickly.  Mum had given me an ivory leather clutch years ago “for shoes” and it was juuuuuust big enough so I could cut out new pieces.  I used my punch that I bought in Copenhagen, and upholstery thread in ivory to sew up and down all around, and hammered on the new uppers.

Now they’re as good as new!! in fact; I reckon BETTER!

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terracotta axel skirt

Hey!  I’ve made this new skirt.  Actually I’ve made lots of new things lately and just haven’t yet blogged them… oops!  Getting onto that, asap!  Hehe, actually a good thing about me-made May is that it kinda forces me to blog as yet unblogged things that I want to wear that day.  Well it means I have to, otherwise… what would I link to??  *horrified gasp*  O, the shame of having nothing to link to!

 

Pattern: the Megan Nielsen Axel skirt.  I bought this pattern a few months ago, on one of the several occasions I’ve wandered into Potters Textiles in fruitless search of the Dove blouse pattern.  The Dove seems to be a pattern that is perpetually sold out… yes, I could have bought a pdf but I kinda had my heart set on a paper pattern.  Mostly because I adore Megan’s illustrations that she does for the envelope.  Aren’t these adorable?   I also have another, different Megan Nielsen pattern that I have recently finished too… but that shall wait until another day and its own separate blog post…. 😉

I made the short, straight version 2 only without the waist ties because this one is actually just my trial version of the pattern…  I was toying with the idea of using it for one of my Melbourne fabrics and just wanted to test it out for fit first.  This is a pattern designed for firm fabrics with some stretch, because it is a tight, form-fitting pattern, but in quite a nice way I think.  The style actually reminds me a LOT of the figure-hugging little pencil skirts we used to wear to high school in the 80’s.  Btw, and going off on a random tangent… if you want to see a daggy homemade mockup of my old school uniform; I put this one together for a school reunion a few years ago…

Fabric: a stretch polyurethane laminate “pleather” from Spotlight.  I’d originally bought several metres of this stuff on superDUPER special; I had the thought of making either shoes or a raincoat… then I went off it and shoved it away and out of sight.  As you do!  I’ve made quite a lot of things out of this stuff in the past, here, here, here, here and here!  Some have been more successful than others and so I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with the stuff  😉  When I was searching for something to run up a muslin/trial thing I thought “oh what the heck this’ll do”, made it up, and you know what?!  I’m actually liking how it turned out, like, A LOT!  It’s like an old-fashioned love story; fabric and pattern met, eyes locked across the room, hearts went a-pitter-pat, the stars aligned, fireworks exploded, champagne corks opped, they rode off into the sunset together and are bound to live happily ever after.

 

Some details: I cut the front on the fold so as to eliminate that unnecessary centre front seam; also, to accommodate my ahem, pear shape; I pro-actively graded out from an S waist out to an M at the hips.  And I’m pretty happy with the fit. See, this is why we sew!  Style-wise; it’s an extremely simple, no-fuss, zero-drama design, with absolutely no closures; just the simplest of bands for a waistband that you pull up over your hips.  Not even kidding, this took me like a few minutes to whip up, tops.

simple stretch waistband


I’ve learnt in the past that this pleather doesn’t hem well… so I just cut a sharp clean edge using my rotary cutter, and angled the seam allowances inside the skirt so there’s no danger of them peeping out under the lower edge.
Also, it’s tricky to press, but does look about a thousand times better if you do… it’s best to press on the underside and use scrap fabric when you’re going over the seams, the plastic right side of the fabric will soften and melt ever so slightly and I found I had to peeeeel off the pressing scrap after pressing.  So it’s best to be quick and not let the iron linger on for too long!  Some more of my tips for sewing with leatherette or pleather are here and here

    

Details:

Skirt; MN 2207 (Megan Nielsen Axel), terracotta polyurethane laminate “pleather”
Top; own design variations on the Epaulette cut & sewn from the Japanese pattern book “she has a mannish style”, also called “she wears the pants” by Yuko Takada, apricot crepe, details here
Shoes; designed and made by me, details here

Location: along the South Perth foreshore

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