Tag Archives: Closet Core Patterns

a special lace dress

hello!  Recently my lovely niece J married her long-time man and so of course I had to make a new dress for myself for the occasion…  I was vaguely toying with the idea of shopping for fabric before I remembered two things: 1. as everyone in our family knows, J’s favourite colour is famously yellow, and 2.  I have a piece of very yellow, and happily wedding worthy fabric in my stash already!

 

I bought this neon-bright yellow guipure lace from Mood Fabrics in New York City back in 2019, when I was over there with my friend Yoshimi… we met with other sewing ladies and they took us on a fabulous fabric shopping spree!  Such fun.  I wrote about it on my blog here…  Originally I had envisioned making a little mini skirt from the lace but when the fabric was rolled out on the counter it turned out there was a pretty large chunk of the border cut out, so the salesperson basically threw that part of the fabric in for free.  Meaning, I ended up with a lot longer length than I had needed.  And obviously I couldn’t waste the extra bit by making that little mini, so it sat, awaiting some other project that could make use of it.Et voila!

I used the Closet Core Ceilo pattern with a few small modifications… namely; spicing the back yoke and back pieces together to eliminate that seam, including inseam pockets in the side seams,  and I also cut it to be a bit more flared.  Oh, and I also traced a size up  – or maybe two? can’t remember now – for that fashionable oversized look.  The hemline, which is of course the natural border of the lace, was determined by how much length I could get, and I also managed to get the sleeves on a border.  It only took a little bit of pattern Tetris but I’m thrilled that I achieved what is one of my primary aims with any sewing project, which is to have minimal leftovers!

My dress is underlined completely with a pinkish/coffee coloured silk chartreuse that I bought from Fabulous Fabrics originally.  I basted the lace and silk layers together within the seam allowance all around except for the side seams below the pockets, and then overlocked the edges before continuing to treat the two layers as one.  The side seams below the pockets I stitched the layers separately and actually the lace is arranged so there’s not a “seam” in this part, but the lace motifs are arranged and hand stitched carefully so you can’t see a seam here.

I cut the pockets and neckline facings from a natural cotton linen that I’ve had in the stash for years, saved specifically for this same sort of purpose.

I chose this because the silk charmeuse wasn’t going to be stable enough in these areas – actually the lace is very heavy, far heavier than it looks!  I cut the lace front and back to have side seam extensions along the pocket area and stitched it down carefully to the pockets inside.  So, when you’re wearing the dress the lace appears to go all the way inside the pockets, no flash of offensive beige to be seen, so it looks really nice.

The seams allowances around the neckline, especially the shoulder seam area here are seriously bulky, and I trimmed, clipped and understitched aggressively to get everything to sit nice and flat!  I also went back later and stitched the facing to the silk underlining as far around and as close as I could get to the shoulder seams.

I’m including a picture of the happy couple because, although I did not make the dress, I did alter it to fit her and also did some minor repairs.  This took three separate fittings and I took precisely zero photos of the process or anything.  My only excuse is that I was also working on my own dress and stressing a little bit that I wasn’t going to get it all done on time.

Thanks to its oversized and loose nature, my dress was so comfy to wear and to dance in, and I was so happy about that!  and just saying, I only wore these high heeled sandals for the ceremony and photos.  For the reception on the same property I went to our car and switched over to my white sandshoes with little socks, brought for this very purpose.  Much warmer, and fabulously comfortable for dancing!  I also wore my new pink wool Sienna jacket for the cooler temperatures that came as evening fell too, but no pictures of that I’m afraid. Anyway, I hope I can get more use our of this dress, which actually turned out more lovely than I thought.  🙂

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charcoal Sienna jacket

hello!

I’ve made another Sienna jacket, yes, hot on the heels of the last one.  I realise this is a weird thing to do but I’m well known for doing weird things so it’s just the norm at this point.  I had this large and rather bulky piece of thick, woolly, charcoal knit in my stash and decided that to use just this one piece would actually free up a disproportionally large amount of space in there.  OK then!  I think I originally bought it from the remnant bin in Knit Wit, Nedlands.

This one is a little different from the previous pink one, as well as being different from the pattern… I cut the front so as to have a straight edge and to have the front facing integral with the front.  I also left off the collar and made a hood instead.  I love hoodies and don’t have enough in my wardrobe!  Honestly if I’d had enough fabric I definitely would have made my pink Sienna to have a hood too.

This fabric had two distinct sides; a side that looks like boiled wool and the other side looks like a stocking stitched knitted piece.  I chose the boiled wool side to be the right side of my jacket.  It’s really very bulky stuff so instead of traditional seams I got creative …

for the hood, I turned under a seam and lined the hood completely with a black, sorta silky but not-silk stuff that is thin but nice and soft.  I cut the back neckline facing from the same fabric.  The hood edging is turned over the edge of the hood lining and simply topstitched in place.  After stitching, I trimmed the hood edging inside close to the stitching.

Similarly, the pocket flaps were made by laying the two flap pieces wrong sides together, and stitching together as normal; then trimming the seam allowances off neatly close to the stitching.

The sleeve bands and sleeve band “holding pieces”? keepers?  (forgot the proper name for those) are made the same way.

The front facings, pocket tops, jacket and sleeve hemlines were made by overlocking the raw edges, turning under allowances/facings to the inside, and then hand-stitching in place.

I actually went out to buy new buttons for this jacket when I decided only plain, black, matte buttons would do.  I’d initially stitched on some other buttons from my stash but just didn’t like the result.  So I made the executive decision to go against my “buy nothing” principles this time.  I think it’s ok to do this if you’ve used all the workhorse buttons in your stash and really have trouble finding fabrics that match any of those colourful, wild and wacky buttons that remain in there!

This is an EXTREMELY warm jacket, much warmer than just about all the other ones in my wardrobe at the moment, yes, even my new pink one!  I’ve been wearing this charcoal jacket just around the house mostly, and have saved the pink one for wearing out.  I think we only have a few weeks left of weather cold enough for this one – hey I’m definitely not complaining about that!

I fully expect by September it will be just too hot for it… really I should have made it at the beginning of winter!  In any case, it feels great to have taken the fabric from out of the stash, and into the wardrobe!

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pink Sienna jacket

hello!  I’ve made a chic (I hope) new jacket… and in such a pretty colour, I’m completely in love.  Guava pink?  Strawberry icecream pink? Sherbie pink?  Coral? Ham pink?  haha.  Whichever, I really adore it and feel like it’s one of “my” colours that suits me quite well.

The fabric is a thickish wool felt that I bought from the Fabric Store in Melbourne during our weekend trip over there in March ’22 to see Harry Potter.  The name of the colour is actually “red clay”, and I have a merino t-shirt in the same colour way, blogged here.  I even bought some matching thread in the same transaction, which I have carefully saved ever since just for these very projects.  Quite unlike me!

I used the Closet Core Sienna jacket, a pattern that I have used once before, in a different variation.  This new one is variation C, the shortest of the three.  I like that it’s cropped, a little boxy, and the notched collar.  I also like the abundance of pockets.  This little jacket has five tucked away in its smallish self!

I made a BIG change, of course.  I wasn’t going to, but after doing only a little bit of sewing I decided it had to be lined.  Not lining would have felt a bit sacrilegious to this beautiful wool fabric.  For this I used a pale pink lining fabric from my stash.  Another change; I abstained from topstitching, which this design has in copious quantities, and instead carefully arranged it to have all hidden/invisible stitching as much as possible.

So, the breast and hip pockets are made as welt pockets, and I agonised quite a lot over getting those slanted welts just right, with the pockets inside hanging “down” and not skewed sideways.  This was a lot harder to achieve than I first thought it would be.

Typical of me to make a project a lot more complicated that it should be, honestly, I don’t know why I do this to myself.

The sleeves are the variation with a pocket in them.  I think this is such a cute idea!

I happened to have the perfect coloured velvet ribbon to make the hanging loop, so I love this detail!

Do you think I had the right buttons in my stash?  No! I did not! and I’m still on a kick to not buy anything new, as much as I can.  I still have a small blob of modelling clay left, so made my own.  I’ve done this multiple times before and love how hand shaped and painted buttons look.  I made ten – the pattern requires eight, so I picked the best eight for the outside of the jacket, and sewed the two spare ones on the inside, on a scrap of felt, just in case I need them in the future.

I can’t actually decide if I prefer it buttoned, or unbuttoned.  I’ve been wearing it buttoned, but worry it looks a bit funny.  But it’s obviously warmer that way!

I love how this turned out!  To be honest, I finished this jacket just before we went away, but didn’t have the time to blog it.  Since coming home though, I’ve worn it several times.  My new favourite coat!

Here it is worn with my pumpkin silk Mysotis dress, blogged here.  Love this mix of warm spicy colours!  It’s been very very cold here this winter, and my new coat has proved itself delightfully snuggly; absolute bliss. I’m going to thoroughly enjoy this coat for the remainder of this winter, and the next… and the next…

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some new things…

hello!  I’ve made some new things recently… firstly, some new winter pyjamas. 🙂

I used my usual Closet Core patterns Carolyn pattern for the bottoms, and for the top I used a pattern adapted from a Burda pattern, just a basic loose top with cut-on sleeves.  I went to Spotlight and bought 1.5m coral pink, 0.5m navy blue and 1.0m white cotton flannelette…  and right now I have to make a stern warning to future me; THIS IS NOT ENOUGH FABRIC TO MAKE A PAIR OF WINTER PYJAMAS.  Well, to be more specific, it CAN BE enough fabric, but only if one is prepared do lots of careful measuring, careful cutting and careful piecing to use as much of the fabric as is humanly possible.  And there will be practically zero fabric by the end of it.

I mean, this is a good thing, right?  Reducing waste?  To answer myself, yes it is, and I enjoyed the technicalities of the process and pretty proud I managed to use practically all of it, however this normally very simple project turned into a bit of an epic journey.  I think it’s ok to admit that it’s not necessary to virtuously use “all your fabric” when you make something.

I realised I had not bought enough fabric once I laid down my pattern pieces, and so had no choice but to cut and piece every single offcut in order to make the pyjama legs as long as I needed, as well as the pyjama top sleeves and body as long as I needed.  It was kind of fun to have the different colours appear as stripes like this too.

All the seams are overlocked on the inside, and all the seams are faux fell-stitched down using white thread on the outside.  I like that all those little bitsy-bits are highlighted like this!

This is the tiny pile of my total leftovers.  Honestly, in the end, “using all the fabric” became such a quest that I slapped on a few superfluous pockets, which is kinda silly really.  It was a fun experiment, but of course it’s a truth that superfluous pockets are not morally superior to throwing away small scraps.  Just saying.

I also made some new clogs!

I used a kit that I bought from Leather Needle Thread, hmm, perhaps a few years ago.  It’s taken me a while to get around to it, yes.  🙂

The colour is black, which of course will be extremely handy .  As much as I love colourful things in my wardrobe, black shoes really are the most useful ones.  As previously, I applied several layers of clear varnish to the clog bases with light sanding in between each coat before making the clogs.  I know the supplier of the clog kits doesn’t recommend this, but I personally have found it an excellent idea with regards to keeping the clogs clean.  Even if you scrupulously wash your feet each time prior to putting on your shoes, you still can’t help but get them a bit dirty, and varnishing the bases really makes the cleaning process a lot more effective.

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refashioning some things

hello!  I’ve made a new outfit by refashioning some other previously worn old things…   from a skirt and old jeans, I’ve made a new/old tunic top and some new/old shorts.   I realise I probably I should be using some of the new fabric already in my stash instead of “already used” fabric – truthfully I am not very sensible a lot of the time – however if I really like a fabric but not the garment so much then I do feel like it just makes sense to reuse the latter if I can.  Actually, I have been making a number of things lately, and from my stash! but just haven’t got around to taking photos or blogging them yet.  For some reason, I’m finding taking photos to be the biggest challenge now.

Anyway, previously I had this skirt, and some of Mum’s old jeans.

I really love this fabric, but it was ultimately a bit on the flimsy side to be a skirt really.  I am, obviously, much happier with the new things.  To be honest it’s just a casual and fairly unexciting outfit but it is the kind of very comfortable and practical outfit that suits my lifestyle very well for the time being.

For the new top, I partially used a pattern from the Japanese pattern book, Stylish Dress Book, but just for the yoke.  I stitched up the pockets on the old skirt, cut out armholes and stitched it to the yoke.  The armholes are bound with the same linen.  The denim yoke is cut from old jeans, and lined with indigo-dyed linen.  I added a pocket harvested from off of an old pair of jeans.

I made the denim shorts using a heavily modified Pietra shorts pattern by Closet Core patterns.  My version is a lot more A-shaped than the original and there is absolutely no elastication at all.

My littlest grandson G enthusiastically rushed over to join me modelling here … he was so cute and funny! You just have to imagine his huge delighted smile here!  My legs are a little wider and I tapered off all pieces toward the top substantially to make it close fitting about my waist, and inserted an invisible zip in the centre back seam.

I cut the legs to be a little wider at the bottom edge, and substantially tapered off all pieces toward the top to make it more close fitting about my waist.  Closure is by an invisible zip inserted in the centre back seam.  The facings and hem edges are bound with pretty gingham printed cotton, leftover fabric from a very recently finished dress.

I removed the pockets from the jeans, unpicked all the old topstitching thread, and re-stitched these to the shorts back.  I had just enough burnt orange to finish the yoke and pocket on my new tunic top, and used a vibrant and sharp lemon yellow for the shorts.  These, along with the jeans in the first place, were inherited from Mum.

Worn above with my white Booragoon top, blogged here, and below with a matching Sorrento bucket hat in the same MaaiDesign wide checked linen, blogged here.

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pink cushions

Hello!  My latest knitting project has been some cushion covers… I’ve had two cushions on our front bench for years, which had became bleached over time to a very unattractive dirty-greige.  I took out the inserts and started planning some new covers…

I could have sewn new covers, however… well, why not knit up some of my wool stash instead?  You might recognise this orange-y coral pink cushion cover as my April knitting project.  It was a neck warmer but I really didn’t like it in the end.  I unravelled the whole thing and re-knitted it… and I much prefer it like this.  The resulting cushion cover was quite small so I had to downsize the cushion insert, however I really like it that the two cushions are now different sizes from each other; adds to the casual randomness of the appearance of them now!

This bright unicorn-pastel one was from a stash given to me by my daughter-in-law Lainey… anyone remember the Flurry yarn?  I don’t know about outside Australia, but here there was a short-lived fashion for wearing scarves made from this type of wool.  There was actually just over three balls of the same colour way in the box Lainey gave to me, which I thought could be enough for a cushion cover.  I felt it looked quite nice with the other cushion too.  The gods were smiling upon me, because there was the perfect amount for a second cover, with zero leftovers.  I knitting in the round, then grafted with Kitchener stitch at the bottom end,  I then stuffed in the old cushion insert and stitched up the top end with the leftover wool.  So no, you can’t get the cushion inserts out again without undoing a seam, but I’ll probably just hand wash the cover and insert all together and I’m sure it will be fine.

 

I photographed one of the old covers because it made me chuckle a bit… they used to be dark purple, and those dark purple circles are where the buttons used to be and thus were protected from the sun.  Also, because I’m very thrifty I saved the buttons too… guess which button was sewn inside the cushion and thus also protected from the sun?!

Some other maintenance issues:

I made these beige trousers a couple of years ago, using the Closet Core patterns Mitchell pattern.

They initially had got a pink wash, and then a deeper pink dye, and I proceeded to wear them about 10 times during their first year.  Then, after about 6 months in the wardrobe without getting another wear, now I’ve dyed them again; navy blue.  It’s like having new trousers!  btw, I’m wearing them with three different Booragoon tops in these pictures!  a white one, pink one, and navy one.  Honestly, I wear my Booragoon tops a lot!

Our Carolyn & Cassie Booragoon top pattern is available here

Maintenance issues 2:  I did a little mending recently which I though to take pictures of… I wear this dark pink T-shirt a lot and love the colour, the fabric is merino from the Fabric Store in colour Red Clay.  It’s so upsetting when a favourite T-shirt develops holes! in spite of lots of mothball thingies they still seem to find their way in sometimes…  Honestly, I’d buy more of this fabric and make another top if I had too, it’s such a favourite for me.

 

Anyway, I did some flower-style mending … it’s not too awful, I think and at least I’ll be able to keep wearing it.  I’ve learnt over time that it’s best to mend little holes like this early, before they grow bigger, which they most definitely will before you know it!

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some odds and ends

Just recently I took part in me-made May again, and had a month of taking my own photos once more.  It feels funny to go back to this, since I’ve completely got out of the habit of taking daily photos, but I do enjoy joining in with me-made May.  It helps me to take stock of the items in my wardrobe that I really like and those that I don’t! and also identify any gaps in my wardrobe…

So these are my daily outfits for the month… there are 32 outfits for 31 days because we had one evening out for my sister-in-law’s birthday party for which I wore a separate outfit from during the day (pic5).  I made every item of clothing I’m wearing in every outfit, except for my black hiking boots and white sandshoes.  I did make the sandals in pic14 though!

Thoughts; (warning; skip this bit if you find wardrobe analysis boring!). I liked all my outfits although there are 1-2 things I pinpointed as being shabby and maybe not really up for public consumption any more (overdyed blue dress and the tomato cardigan from picture 1).  I also resurrected a few things from storage to wear again, and was reminded how much I love them really.  (chambray top from pic26, overdyed dress from pic12, jeans from pic 25, jeans from pic32, the shirt I made for Craig in pic16). Surprisingly (for me) I hated nothing, which is good, and makes me think I might need to retire those things I chose NOT to wear during the month!  I conscientiously tried to wear something different every day and only discovered that I’d doubled up on a few things after the event.  I wore my pink Pinjarra cardigan twice (pics 10 & 23) and also my little raspberry jacket twice (pics 9 & 25), and my brown knitted cardigan three times (pics 7, 13 & 24).  For the last few years I’d got into the habit of not wearing jeans very often since I became convinced that I look terrible in them.  However, lately I’ve found to my surprise that I don’t mind how they look on me.  So, I’m planning to make a new pair of jeans, surprise surprise!  Wardrobe gaps: well, sorry to sound like a broken record, however as old pocket-less items die they are only going to be replaced with pocket-equipped items!  This is absolutely not negotiable.

In the end, me-made May is a bit biased in that I don’t get to wear my truly summery things nor my truly wintery things either.  It’s all the middle ground, trans-seasonal things that suit middle ground temperatures.  I mean, this is fine; because the majority of my wardrobe is obviously middle range things weather-wise… however sometimes I think I should do this sort of analysis privately for a hot month and a cold month too.

I also kept a pictorial record of my purple hair wash too! just for fun. :). The colour was quite intense to start with and had washed out to a shade I REALLY love after 2-3 washes.  I took the 6th picture today, the colour is quite subtle now, but it still noticeable, I think.  In a good way!  However, this is a lesson to me that if I ever use a purple colour wash again to just use maybe a third of the tube, at most!

I made something else last month; a new pair of winter jammies…  I used the Closet Core pattern that is my namesake of course, the Carolyn pyjamas for the bottoms.  The top is vaguely similar to my usual pattern Burda 10/2009; 121 that I’ve used for winter pj tops in the past, but I’ve somehow managed to lose the pattern I’d traced out.  I didn’t feel like re-tracing it, so instead I just laid down last year’s top and traced around the outside, haha.  I added oversized pockets to the front, because I always need pockets.

I had to buy new fabric thus breaking my no-buy rule… but it was a necessary sin since I had no flannelette in my possession!  I bought as little as I dared and managed to use the entire amount, so I’m forgiving myself!  The bunny print cotton flannelette is of course from Spotlight, and I bought a small amount of white to give some contrast because I always like a bit of contrast.  To be honest, I searched and searched for some garishly cotton candy coloured unicorn print flannelette which would have been my absolute ideal… and was extremely disappointed to find nothing like that.  These sweet blush-pink bunnies are reasonably cute enough so they will do.  For now!

In closing; a favourite moment from me-made May was the day when Cassie, Theo, Gilbert and I visited the Subiaco Flower festival together… we had such a lovely afternoon!

(photo taken by a kind lady passing by)

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an assortment of sewn things

hello!  Once again I am presenting an odd assortment of disparate things made recently…

Items 1 and 2; two completely identical new Booragoon tops.  Both from a pink cotton jersey from stash, originally Spotlight from ages ago.  I’m wearing one above with my newly dyed Closet Clore patterns Mitchell trousers… the trousers used to be a paler pink and I felt like a colour change though I fear I overdid it a bit!  never mind…  the other pink Booragoon has gone to my niece T.  It really suits her!

Love this cute and yet chic little pattern!  I know it’s mine and I shouldn’t be too self-congratulatory, but I really really love it so I just have to gush occasionally.  I’ll stop now.

Items 3, 4 and 5, or should I just call this item 3?  I’m never quite sure…

anyway, I made a new set of one Watson bra plus two pairs of matching undies.  I used some of the leftover pink cotton jersey, from those aforementioned pink tops, and some striped jersey, that I’ve had for a long long time (actually made this striped shirt from it). And whipped up a mixed fabrics set… actually I want to make more things like this at the moment, mixing up different fabrics.

Fronts and back of the knickers are contrasting, the strap elastic, rings and sliders, and hook and eye closure are all recycled from an old bra.  The other elastics are all from the stash, by which I mean they’ve not been used before even if they’re not actually new.  A free set!  Yay!

Items 6 and 7 (or 4 and 5?). some matching clothes for Cassie’s two; T and G…  Oh, I’ve just realised I haven’t introduced my newest grandson here yet… I did over on instagram but this is his first appearance here…Cassie had baby Gilbert a few weeks ago, and here he is!

Isn’t he sweet!  This is the first thing I’ve made for him and I made a matching T-shirt for his older brother too.

I’m quite sad that this next one has zero hanger appeal, or should I say floor appeal, and even on the body it doesn’t look particularly chic; which is pity because the fabric is absolutely beautiful.

Mum wove this length of beautiful lilac/blue fabric with her own two hands many years ago, and had partially made a dress or tunic or something out of it.

I cut off the bottom, hemmed, and reattached the cut off portion as sleeves.  I’m wearing it as a summer dressing gown.  So that was item 8, for those keeping count, and now for number 9….

my new summer nightie!  So I really really love this and it feels so lovely to wear!  I used a short length of silk from Le Stash, originally from (I think) Tessuti fabrics of Melbourne, from years ago.  With some clever pattern placement I managed to cut a Closet Core Simone slip.  I French seamed the side seams, and was very careful to match stripes all around.  It feels incredibly luxe!  Why have I never made silk sleepwear before?!

 

 

Ok, I think that’s all for now!  See you later!

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