Tag Archives: Own Design

creamy broderie anglaise…

Oh, hey, I made a dress!  and not just any old dress but this the final thing in my little mini make-nine challenge which of course was actually make-twelve!  So happy I managed to squeak it in for the end of the year!  Phew!

This is sorta based on the Named Inari tee dress pattern, and the fabric is a heavy clotted cream coloured, broderie anglaise cotton that I bought in Mood when I visited New York with Yoshimi on our holiday there last year.  GORGEOUS fabric.  I feel like I’m wearing a wedding cake, in a good way!

I’m so thrilled with how my dress turned out… in the end!  It has a few features that I shall now proceed to explain…

a. the shoulders have a sort of raglan effect, but still with the set in sleeves.  There is a reason for this that I shall delve into further, later… ahem…

b. I utilised the broderie edging as much as possible, in the sleeve edges, the hem edge at the bottom, and to form the upper edge of the patch pockets.  Love how this turned out!

c.  To get the best effect of the broderie “stripes” I did not make the inari with its traditional stepped hem . ie. longer at the back and shorter at the front; because I wanted the broderie edge to finish the entire hem, and also wanted the broderie pattern to match along those side(-ish) seams.

Btw, to digress for a bit… when it comes to pattern/stripe matching, I admit to being a fiend for this in the past, however lately I’ve felt a little ambivalent towards the rabid mania for extreme pattern matching that seems de rigeur for the sewing world.  Sure, there are definitely times when strict pattern matching is necessary, but I’m starting to crave the artistic possibilities that come with a less rigid approach.  For example, when a patch pocket is so excellently pattern matched that you can’t even see it’s there.  WHY?!  Sometimes I just find myself wishing for something a bit more exciting.

That’s not relevant to this, my latest thing though, because I decided a good pattern match was indeed essential to the dress looking good, so I went there.  There is no pocket matching whatsoever with the pockets and I like this look a lot.

Now to be real here; my initial “make 12” plan actually included a different pattern Vogue 8968, and I really did make this fabric up in that pattern too.  And it looked … absolutely terrible.  Behold the awfulness.

Yeah, it looks kind of ok on my dummy but on me it looked pretty bad, like a big broderie anglaise circus tent.  No modelled pictures because twas only “finished” for a minute or so before I starting cutting it up anew to make this.  To be honest, when I first did my make 12 plan I did not plan very thoroughly, and just chose 12 patterns and 12 fabrics with the thought I was just going to jam them together and make it work somehow, and unfortunately the last pattern and fabric were not a good match for each other after all.  I absolutely love this beautiful fabric though, so I’m very happy to have “saved” it!

see that little patch of bias-cut cream muslin sitting behind my label?  I had to put it there because without it you could see the red back of the label through this very lightweight fabric!

As it is, it’s absolutely essential to wear a slip with the dress.  I’m wearing it here with my ivory slip dress, the pattern is the free Ruby pattern by the very generous Sheryll of pattern scissors cloth, available here…

Oh, so the change of pattern is kinda the explanation for the funny, half raglan, half set in sleeve look.  True, Vogue 8968 doesn’t have raglan sleeve, haha; but bear with me.  I decided a raglan sleeve would look better than the big cut on, non-sleeve of the pattern.  Does it sound like I took a bit of a dislike to V8968? hmmm I think so, yes.  Anyway, I changed it to a  raglan sleeve.  Then when cutting out the Inari, I ended up keeping the perfectly finished bias-bound neckline of the original dress along with the raglan seams, and still cut out the armholes for the Inari too.  The Vogue dress was so big I was able to cut out my amended inari sleeves from the original sleeves too.  I got the patch pockets from the extra hem length cut off the sides.  So that was a bonus!

Of course, in peak 2020 style I made a little matching mask.  We’re not yet wearing them over here in Western Australia because of zero community spread, but who knows what the future holds?  I’m slowly building up a small collection of masks to have ready, just in case.

So that’s it for my little mini “make nine” challenge for this year!  Yay, I did it!

The thing is that I say “mini” challenge but it turned out to actually be a bit of a bigger challenge for me  than I thought, for some reason.  I can’t quite put my finger on it, but I think it’s something to do with the fact that spontaneity and the whim of the moment are important motivators for me when it comes to making things.  And when the spontaneity and whimsy are not there then I actually find it … well, not quite a “chore”  but something quite close to that anyway.  Terrible, huh.  Truthfully though, in spite of making it sound like (back-hand to brow) oh how I struggled! … I did not, because I love sewing and I really love all the things I made during the challenge.  However I don’t know if I will do a make nine again next year or not.  Maybe I’ll think of a new challenge… hmmm….I’ll have to give it some serious thought, because I only have one day to decide!

Details:

Dress, sorta Inari tee dress pattern by Named patterns, cream cotton broderie anglaise from Mood fabrics in New York
Mask, from this tutorial
Shoes; ancient, from an op shop

 is this thing even working?!  *camera click* 

 

 

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baby swing and coconut ice

Tim and I made this adorable little swing for Arthur!

peekaboo!!

Kelly found the design and Tim suggested it be a joint project between us, with me making the swing and Tim taking care of the woodwork etc… Kelly and Arthur and I went to Spotlight together and bought the stuff… apart from the fact that it was like 41C that day it was fun!

Arthur’s first trip to Spotlight!

We bought this cute orange-based kangaroo? wallaby? print which Kelly thought would go really nicely with their deep blue/grey walls and jarrah floors, bamboo wadding, which I used doubled up for extra padding, and white webbing and a white clip-in catch to make a safety belt too… also Tim got pine dowelling and nylon rope from Bunnings.  We based our swing on this one on a blog the Thud… I think that Kelly had found it through Pinterest? I think?  anyway I recommend checking it out because she is hilarious!!

I did have to make adjustments to practically every dimension though for several reasons:

a. the dowel Tim had was 2.54mm (1″) instead of the 19mm dowel used in the tutorial so extra height was needed at every top edge.

b. we wanted the back rest to be above the arm rests because it makes good sense to have the back highest, I think and also makes a nice visual to the layers.

c. I wanted all the kangaroos/wallabies to face UP, so I split the bottom/side piece into two, and cut and joined so the animals stood up each side.  Furthermore, I arranged it so the seam in the back/side piece was on the opposite side for each piece, the inside and outside of the swing, if that makes sense.

d. I added a little seat belt for safety.  The part that goes around his waist is stitched in each side of the back piece of the swing, and the front is stitched in with the seam between the front and the bottom/side piece,

e. I also made a little flat, square, seat cushion, partially for comfort and also so the kangaroos face up when you look inside the swing too.  In addition, I made an extra, super-fat cushion to sit in the back of the swing, which looks cute, and also narrows the opening a little so he’s less inclined to pull his knees up and try to stand up in it.  Although, Tim and Kelly tell me that when he’s in it he just loves chilling out in his swing, mostly just sitting quietly resting against the cushion in it, and happily swinging.

Here is my (amended) pattern…

and Arthur, chilllaxing in his swing … CUTE!!

Oh, and of course everything is going to be an anticlimax after that cutie patootie! but anyway… so, every Christmas I usually make some sweet treat as a gift for extended family and friends.  This year I made coconut ice, but partly due to small supplies of red food colouring I decided upon a slightly different colour scheme from the usual.

I think it all turned out super pretty!  Also, delicious, obviously!  btw, this quantity pictured looks a bit mean but is really just for “pretty” photographic purposes, because everyone got at least four times this amount in little reusable lunchboxes.  I used this recipe from Taste.com…

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I’ve been making a whole bunch of stuff…

Ok… stuff!   I just have to write this quick blog post or … I dunno, explode or something!  because right now I am the Red Queen, running as fast as I can just to stay in the same place… and if I don’t just get on with a thing right this very minute then will it ever ever get gone on with, at all?!  That is the question?  So, on with the stuff!

So, a while ago I’d written about how the Burda baby onesie pattern I’d been using for Arthur had proved itself to be too wide for the height of it? Like way too wide, fall off the shoulders wide, while the poppers at the crotch were straining to stay shut?  Well, I made a new pattern, and it’s super cute.  Of course it is!  When are tiny weeny baby clothes NOT cute, hmmm?  Exactly!

So above is the first one… yellow striped cotton jersey from Spotlight stores…  At the same time that we got this fabric, we also bought some lengths for bunny rugs for the baby.  When I say “we” by the way, that is NOT the royal we, although I am indeed in the thick of watching the Crown at present and as such am become quite proficient in such conversational niceties…  no, actually Cassie and I went to Spotlight together and selected fabrics for the new baby’s, new nursery.

I had also previously bought some white cotton jersey, to make a maternity frock for Cassie.

She’d sort of semi-designed what she wanted in the dress, a tank dress, with the tank front able to be lifted up for breast-feeding, layered over a sort of boob tube with an elasticated top edge underneath.  The skirt is a quarter circle skirt. It’s a pretty simple design and style, and she loves it!

Side note: I’ve had to look at the messy lower half of this dresser for years.  It took putting the house on the market for me to finally do something about making this a wee bit prettier to the casual observer.  Voila!!  A sweet lace curtain!  Side note to the side note;  we sold the house… very quickly as it turned out.  The beach house also sold very  quickly, like before it even went officially on the market.  My head is spinning!!  I’ll talk more about this later, right now it’s all still a bit overwhelming.

Next!  I bought this shark print cotton jersey from Spotlight… actually, ALL these fabrics are from Spotlight, to be honest!  I bought this fabric months ago, pre covid, always with the intention of making a little Watson bra and briefs set… ta da!  Simple, pretty – well as pretty as a shark can get I guess! – and comfy.  And finally done!

Lastly, I had a small bit of sharky leftovers.  So, obviously…  🙂

This one is a little bit bigger than the yellow one.

So, I think that’s it for now!  I have a few other things in the works, and will definitely/hopefully?! be posting everything before the end of the year.  I’d better pull my socks up, eh?

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separated Cissy… and it’s green

Seems like a bit of a non-sequitur, but kinda sums up the whole process actually.  Let me explain…

So I set out to make another Homer and Howells Cissy dress for myself because I was so pleased with the rust lace one that I’d made first off the block.  This is back in April by the way, back when we were in a lockdown of sorts here in Perth, when we were all terrified of the virus and didn’t know as yet that there was no community transmission here.  Yes, I do indeed know how very lucky we are! and it’s fantastic that everyone here is working hard to keep things that way too… but I digress!

I needed a sewing project!

I had some khaki-olive-blue-grey, slightly crinkly cotton in my stash  that Mum had chucked my way, when she cleaned out her own stash, and it was just enough to cut out the Cissy pieces.  Awesome!  It was meant to be!  However when I put it together I was just like…. blah.  I think when you’re feeling anxious and depressed then your soul cries out for cheer and vibrancy, or even just strength, even in colour form; and drab colours just kinda drag you down … however at the time I determined a waist was what was needed.  So I proceeded to cut a straight waistband from the scant remains of fabric, miraculously I had a strip just long enough! I took off the bodice and skinny-hemmed it, making a cute little loose crop top.  I the sliced up the centre back of the skirt and inserted an invisible zip, re-folded the skirt pleats into my new waistband, and stitched on a button.  Ok! I thought.  This is going to be great!

ORIGINAL COLOUR… yeah it’s not awful, I guess

 

It lay in my wardrobe during winter and I was anticipating a lot of wear once the warm weather hit… and when I did my rainbow week mini-challenge I thought it would be my “green” ensemble…  I frocked up and took a few photos, a sample of which is below, and man, at that moment the not-greenness of the whole thing just killed me, so it did not feature in that week after all.  I still thought the ensemble had promise and I was on a mission to save it now!  I wanted GREEN!   I had to wait until Spotlight had restocked its dye supplies but finally they came in.   And into the spa dye-pot it went!

looked terrible in this light!…

I used a whole pack of Rit Kelly green, and I very happy with it now, I think the strong colour is just what it, or maybe I – needed!  The crop top is very cropped, and I have to be careful about lifting my arms up too high, and I’m planning next to make some pretty little lace camisoles to wear underneath.
Watch this space!

Details:

Top and skirt; from the Homer & Howells Cissy pattern, old cotton, overdyed by me
Caramel sandals; super old, originally from an op shop.  I need to replace these, desperately!

Green turtleneck: modified Closet Core pattern Nettie in green merino
Black tights; my own design, black stretch poly
Black booties, from Zomp boutique

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I made some cool blue sandals (shoes)

Woo-eee!  I really really wanted to add another pair of handmade shoes to my collection this year and after a whole bunch of postponing and procrastinating and a little bit of prevaricating too… ta da!  I basically had to force myself to get started – I hadn’t made a pair of shoes in over a year and it suddenly seemed quite daunting, and hard! but of course in the end I really enjoyed myself making these.  And I LOVE them!

I bought this quite thick blue suede from The Fabric Store in Auckland, during one of the massive stopovers that Air New Zealand gives you when you’re flying onto North America.  Which I have done twice over the last three years.  I think this might have been the Alaska trip.  I’d originally thought I’d try to make closed toe, oxford style shoes or derbys but realised the suede was really too thick for that.  You need for the leather/suede or whatever to be quite flexible and easily mouldable around your lasts without wrinkles or puckers, which is pretty much impossible in a thickish material.  So I eventually went with this, quite simple style instead.

Cute, huh?!  I’m pretty thrilled with them!  Most of the other components are from one of the kits I bought from Lisa of the Shoe Camaraderie, and I followed all her instructions too.  Although like I mentioned, I used my own leather and the design of the uppers is my own too.

I really wanted a matching blue thread for those visible stitches on my shoes, but didn’t have any, not even embroidery thread in the right colour!  which is why I settled upon the beige waxed thread that Lisa supplied with my kit.  Obviously this is the perfect stuff to use for the job anyway, and I think I’m fine with it being a contrasting colour, since it is the same colour as the bottom part of the sandal too.

Having a kit makes it all so much easier, plus I’ve done two workshops with Lisa now… so you’d think I would just barrel through, no problem; whip up a pair of sandals in no time.

Nope!  I stuffed up on multiple occasions!

Firstly, I went to the effort of masking up my lasts and drawing out a fabulous and as it turned out, ridiculously complicated style for my sandals.  And made a pattern and all.  Let’s just say, it did NOT WORK.  I did try pretty hard to make it work and then moved on to trying to force the pieces into a different design, which obviously was not going to work either.

Settled upon this, much simplified design, cut out a whole new set of pieces.  Confidently whipped up a coupla buckle and strap sets and practically finished the sandals.  Smooth sailing!

Noticed the buckle and strap were going the wrong way, ie buckling forwards rather than backwards.  *cue silent scream*

I almost just let it go, but then realised I had plenty of leather actually, enough for new straps, and if I was going to do this thing, may as well do it properly.  Cut new strips, made new buckle and straps sets.  Completed the rigmarole a second time.  Obviously not quite so smooth sailing this time.  It never is.

Next, I’d applied glue to the soles with great thoroughness and excellent coverage… or so I thought.  After leaving them overnight, I noticed in the morning a few millimetres of lifting on the side of one of the sandals.  This is very very bad.  You do NOT want gaps.  I managed to pry open a slightly bigger gap, enough to dribble more glue down, spread it around with an opened-out paper clip, and propped it open with another paper clip to go tacky.  I gave it masses of time, and fortunately this very very NOT-recommended trick seemed to work.  A miracle!!!

On to the finishing touches… went around to Tim’s place to retrieve the sander, which he has for some time, I might add.  Plugged the sander in, very happy I was basically on the home stretch now, and turned it on.  Nothing.  Dead as a doornail.  Hunted out a different extension cord, tried different sockets.  Brushed sawdust and cobwebs from out of likely looking spots.  Nope.  Finally rigged up the the orbital sander instead and got the job done, which did take longer but of course not nearly so long as if I had to sand by hand, so all’s good.  Apart from the fact that maybe we now need a new belt sander, of course!

So, this is the tenth thing in my make twelve, the “making plan” I set up for myself at the beginning of the year.  This particular project was arguably the most intimidating out of the entire twelve, maybe the most challenging too.  I do love making shoes but it’s definitely next level stuff, catapulting me right out of my comfort zone … so I feel like the final two are going to be easy peasy, lemon squeezy!  We shall see!

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a blanca flight suit with a difference

I really loved the industrial-chic vibe of the Closet Core patterns Blanca flight suit pattern as soon as it came out… loved the zippered breast pockets, the front opening zip, the front hip pockets, the er.. bottom? pockets; sorry have momentarily forgotten the technical term for those things.  Anyway…  such a plethora of fabulous topstitching possibilities!  I actually love top-stitching, it’s one of those calming zen activities that pleases my inner love for well-ordered neatness…  and just the pure and simple visual joy of looking at that evenly dotty line marching its way across cloth.  *happy sigh*

I think though, that I’ve long come to terms with the fact that I want only a limited number of trousers/pants in my wardrobe.  I have some nice ones that I enjoy wearing but the thing is that I really really love dresses and skirts the most.  And jumpsuits, I’m even more happy to have none!  But of course, how easy is it to make the Blanca pattern as a dress?  Super easy!  I didn’t take any pictures, but you just simply cut the pants pieces in a skirt shape instead.  I think I added a squidge more width to the hip area too… just in case, with a view to removing it if I needed to.  I didnt  #pearfromwayback

I also added a walking vent to the skirt back in the centre seam… It’s not really necessary for walking, I put it in mostly for visual purposes because I thought the back skirt would look a tad bland without something there.  I’m really glad I did think of it, because I think it does add a touch of interest.

Want to see something funny/annoying?  I originally cut the vent to a certain length which I thought would look visually nice.  Then I hemmed the skirt and of course the vent became too short!  So I had to carefully unpick it, and splice in a little wedge of fabric neatly to fill the gap, and redo it.  Was this easy?  NO!  Ha!  I think it looks neat enough, and since it’s hidden inside the vent away from view you can’t really see it at all.  I’m pretty happy with how almost-invisible it turned out though, even if you’re looking!

Note to self though; if you’re putting in a walking vent ad hoc, cut it way way too long to start with.  You can always cut the top down if it’s too long, and if it’s not?  This simple precaution will save you a heck of a struggle later on.

Those tabs are supposed to be down near the trouser hems in the original pattern, I put mine on the sleeves instead.  The buttons are pretty marbled ones from my stash.  Oh, fabric… I bought this rusty coloured cotton twill from Spotlight stores, fun fact: this is actually the very last piece of fabric I bought before lockdown commenced.  I bought the wine coloured zips at the same time, and I already had the ivory topstitching thread in my stash.

Look at this perfect belt buckle!!  I bought this from Closet Core patterns too… it’s the absolute perfect finishing touch.  I had to wait a whole month for it to show up, but I’m so thrilled with it!

I had a small scrap of striped linen, leftover from this Perth top I made for my sister-in-law S, which I managed to cut the lining for the front pockets.  I love this little Beetlejuice touch peeping out!

Back belt loops, back pockets.  Any excuse to indulge in a bit more top-stitching…

Who says you can’t fly in a dress?  Up up and away!!

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stuff for Arthur…

those little pursed lips!!

So, Kelly had lent me one of Arthur’s onesies so I could make a better fitting pattern than the Burda one I’ve been using up until now… for some reason that pattern makes for a very short, wide onesie.  And I guess he could be a very tall, skinny baby?  Although I think the sizing could be a bit off, because he looks like a perfectly normal shaped baby to me?!

Anyway, my first go was using one of Tim’s old T-shirts, above.  To be honest, these are my favourites for babies, teenage T-shirts are so cool and so they of course make for very cool babies’ onesies too!  I used some of the details for the new onesie, even the little Rusty tag which I un-picked and re-stitched into the sleeve seam.  Cute!

Then I made him a new one using new fabric.

So, dilemma… The new one will be a lot more robust, because of being made of new fabric, obviously.  The ones made out of old T-shirts are a little fragile, since the T-shirt itself has been washed and worn, over and over and over by the time you’re refashioning this much-loved thing, with all its sentiment and memories, into a new thing for your much-loved baby.

The new onesie, though it’s going to be a “better”, has none of that, so it’s just not quite as cool or interesting.  I kinda love the refashioned ones the best, though you know they just can’t wear them with as much confidence in durability as the new.  Hmmm.  Anyway, he still looks cute in them both!

And, I have a reasonably good pattern now.  The clincher, which gives it a really great fit, is that gusset bit.  To make the neckline fit over his head, it is one of those open ones, where the front laps over the back at the shoulder, but is otherwise not stitched together.  It works really well.

Also, I’m looking forward to making Cassie’s baby some things out of the new pattern too.  When/If I get time!

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a little packet of masks

… we are so very very fortunate here in WA so far, there have been no outbreaks of covid-19 but we’re not taking that for granted! everyone including me is continuing to practise social distancing and hygiene because for sure the current virus-free state of our state cannot last forever.  Masks are not mandatory yet, but one person in our lives who is very health-vulnerable is Craig’s Mum, she is being super careful and wears disposable masks everywhere.  However, they probably cost her a bit so I offered to make some for her.  And she accepted, so I got to work!

Voila!

I made seven differently coloured masks, all are simple, two-layered and pleated so as to expand to fit over your nose and chin too, using this pattern and tutorial on the Makers Habitat youtube channel here.  I made seven so she can wear different colours to match different outfits, and included one pretty floral one too.  I also cut seven cotton denim inserts, which I shall explain later.  Because masks and inserts are small fiddly, nothingy things liable to getting lost, I also made a little custom-sized pouch for her to keep them all safe and together in one spot.

All the solid colours are tightly woven poplin (Spotlight), the floral is a linen, leftover from this top I made for Cassie (Fabulous Fabrics), and the linings are made from tightly woven cotton voile (Spotlight).  The denim inserts are all cut from a piece of coated cotton denim, and I finished the edges simply on my overlocker.  I cut the mask straps from a small leftover piece of white cotton jersey.

Some sewing notes; I’ve found it a really good idea to understitch the top and bottom edges of the mask/lining seam after the first sewing step.  The masks look so much nicer if you do so!

And I cut my straps to be 30cm x 1cm using my rotary cutter and ruler, no finishing because it’s not going to unravel, and just allow the cotton jersey to roll up naturally, if it wants.  I just tied them in very loose knots so they don’t pull out, and Craig’s Mum can re-tie them to fit herself properly.

So, why separate inserts?  Well, homemade masks are considered ok here; as long as they are made of at least three layers of fabric, preferably tightly woven and with the inner layer being of something like denim.  Basically all the patterns and tutorial out there are for two layered masks.  I trialled a few different mask patterns in three layers of fabric, with an inner layer of denim, but actually found this to be a really bad idea; the masks; and the seams! were terribly thick and bulky.  Oh, long story short; I popped it in as an insert and I think it’s going to work really well.  You do have to put the inserts in; which I hope is not too fiddly a thing for her! and push the corners up into the corners of the mask, but once they’re in it’s very comfortable to wear, and you can breathe through the layers quite ok.

The little pouch was fun and easy to make! and it fits all the mask components perfectly… I cut it from an old tablecloth that Sam bought at the Salvos to make part of a costume; the fabric is quite thick and stiff and it stands up by itself.  I pin tucked all the side and bottom edge seams, which helps to stiffen it too, and used a brown dress zip from my stash for closure.   I also put a piece of cardboard in the bottom of the pouch to stabilise it.

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