Tag Archives: Stylish Dress Book

refashioning some things

hello!  I’ve made a new outfit by refashioning some other previously worn old things…   from a skirt and old jeans, I’ve made a new/old tunic top and some new/old shorts.   I realise I probably I should be using some of the new fabric already in my stash instead of “already used” fabric – truthfully I am not very sensible a lot of the time – however if I really like a fabric but not the garment so much then I do feel like it just makes sense to reuse the latter if I can.  Actually, I have been making a number of things lately, and from my stash! but just haven’t got around to taking photos or blogging them yet.  For some reason, I’m finding taking photos to be the biggest challenge now.

Anyway, previously I had this skirt, and some of Mum’s old jeans.

I really love this fabric, but it was ultimately a bit on the flimsy side to be a skirt really.  I am, obviously, much happier with the new things.  To be honest it’s just a casual and fairly unexciting outfit but it is the kind of very comfortable and practical outfit that suits my lifestyle very well for the time being.

For the new top, I partially used a pattern from the Japanese pattern book, Stylish Dress Book, but just for the yoke.  I stitched up the pockets on the old skirt, cut out armholes and stitched it to the yoke.  The armholes are bound with the same linen.  The denim yoke is cut from old jeans, and lined with indigo-dyed linen.  I added a pocket harvested from off of an old pair of jeans.

I made the denim shorts using a heavily modified Pietra shorts pattern by Closet Core patterns.  My version is a lot more A-shaped than the original and there is absolutely no elastication at all.

My littlest grandson G enthusiastically rushed over to join me modelling here … he was so cute and funny! You just have to imagine his huge delighted smile here!  My legs are a little wider and I tapered off all pieces toward the top substantially to make it close fitting about my waist, and inserted an invisible zip in the centre back seam.

I cut the legs to be a little wider at the bottom edge, and substantially tapered off all pieces toward the top to make it more close fitting about my waist.  Closure is by an invisible zip inserted in the centre back seam.  The facings and hem edges are bound with pretty gingham printed cotton, leftover fabric from a very recently finished dress.

I removed the pockets from the jeans, unpicked all the old topstitching thread, and re-stitched these to the shorts back.  I had just enough burnt orange to finish the yoke and pocket on my new tunic top, and used a vibrant and sharp lemon yellow for the shorts.  These, along with the jeans in the first place, were inherited from Mum.

Worn above with my white Booragoon top, blogged here, and below with a matching Sorrento bucket hat in the same MaaiDesign wide checked linen, blogged here.

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a checquered tale of a checkered dress

I’ve made a simple little dress…  Now I have to admit that such apparent simplicity is actually the anticlimactic outcome of a long, convoluted sewing-and-unpicking, journey which I’m a little embarrassed to relate.  This is one of the failed projects from 2024 which I mentioned in my roundup, and just recently got around to fixing up.

I’d bought this quite nice, slightly spongy, heavily textured cotton check a long time ago now,  almost certainly from a Melbourne trip.  I’m pretty sure it was Tessuti and further have a feeling it was reasonably expensive thus why I really wanted to make something worthwhile from it.

Iteration Number One:

I started out making the Original Digby Cleo dress.  This is a lovely and feminine design, which involved stitching a LOT of self-made, bias-cut channelling for lengths of elastic, to mimic the look of a shirred bodice.  I had high hopes and the result was very pretty, but sadly in the end it was just too young-looking to suit me.  Cassie modelled it for me for these pictures here, but didn’t really want it either, and I wanted to make the fabric into something I could wear.  Out with the unpicker!

Taking off all those long (long) lengths of bias cut channelling took quite a long time, made even more painful with the memory of how carefully I had stitched them on in the first place to perfectly line up the channels with the lines of checks, as well as switching up threads depending on whether I was stitching on a black row or a cream row, this additionally making it more difficult to see the stitches I was unpicking.   I know, I wonder about my own sanity too, sometimes…

Anyway.  Iteration Number Two was essentially the same dress sans the elasticated channels.  I reused the same shoulder straps to be a halter neckline and allowed the otherwise unaltered dress to hang like so.  I actually quite liked it like this and wore it with a little T-shirt underneath a few times.

However, after about six months of this I finally realised what the fabric really wanted to be. I believe fabrics do tell you what they want to be, even if it takes a little time.  Some are shy and take years to let you know, but you just need to trust in the fabric, let it sit there quietly, and it will eventually let you know what its final form should be.  Out with the unpicker once again!

In the end, Iteration Number Three, the final iteration, was very straightforward to achieve.  I settled upon a modified version of a dress from the Japanese pattern book Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, specifically dress R.  My final version is more narrowed at the top end, and with the yoke also narrowed in width and the neckline substantially more “filled in”.  I also left off the sleeves through having absolutely no more of the check fabric anyway, and finished the armscyes with self-made black bias binding.  I removed the original inseam pockets – and a big thank you to past me for overlocking all the raw edges separately from each other! – and repositioned them appropriately for the dress’s slightly new form.  The yoke is black cotton denim, cut from the leftovers from my wide-leg jeans from last year, and lined with plain black poplin.  I did decorative white topstitching just for fun, and added a completely frivolous and not-useful-at-all coin pocket to the front yoke, also for fun.  I also reused the “made in 2024” tag that it had from its inception.

Small anecdote; I’d ordered new “made in 2025” labels from the same place Intensely Distracted, back in December.  They were taking a long time to arrive, and I was just starting to wonder what on earth had happened to them when they finally showed up 2 days ago.  Attached to the envelope was a big green “Opened for inspection by ABF” sticker, also inside was a little note explaining that my goods were opened and inspected by Australian Border Force and found to contain no problematic components so were being forwarded to me in full.  Amazing that this very innocuous packet of sew in labels was suspicious enough to get yoinked out for a personal inspection…

Anyway, the dress!  I’m so happy with its final iteration.  I feel like such a bold check is most perfectly suited to a very simplified style like this, much more age appropriate, not too fussy and a lot more me.  And it feels so lovely and light to wear.  I absolutely love it!  I first wore it just the other day, when I took my oldest grandson Arthur shopping for his 5th birthday present.  I know, 5 already!  I can hardly believe it.  We had such a lovely morning shopping together, just the two of us, choosing something he liked.  It was so funny because he liked literally everything! and it was actually quite difficult to narrow it down to just two things.  Then after we got home we spent a bit of time playing with his new toys and it was such a nice time.  I love being a Granny!

 please excuse the totally gratuitous Clara pic…

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nani Iro Encounter dress

Hello!  I’ve made a new rather beachy little dress!

I bought this beautiful fabric over two years ago, the last time we were in Japan and Yoshimi took us to her favourite craft store; Yuzawaya in Kichijoji, it’s quite close to the Studio Ghibli museum and we popped in on our way.  It is a nani Iro double cotton gauze”Encounter”; and it’s so pretty! but in a sparse, painterly way that I think it’s not too pretty for me.

I used a pattern from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori; dress F which I have made several times before.  It’s my favourite from the book, because it is so subtly stylish in a very quiet and cute way without tipping into too cute (for me).  My favourite thing about it is the shaped, open sleeve design, with little ties.  I squeezed in seam side pockets, of course;  and actually used up practically every scrap of my 2m of fabric.  I have enough left for a face mask but didn’t get around to making that yet.

I’ve been dreaming about finally wearing this beautiful fabric for so long, finally cutting into it and making something that I know I am going to love was a joy; I almost feel like I’m cheating on my “use30” pledge?!  But of course it’s not really cheating.  Adding this 2m to my current tally of 8; and I’m up to 10m for the year… 20m to go!!

For the facing, in the past I’ve just tended to overlock the edges of a facing like this… however I’ve often found an overlocked, interfaced edge to be quite irritating when it’s rubbing against soft skin all day long.  So this time I went to the effort of finishing off the facing with a strip of self bias-binding.  I can already attest that this tiny little innovation is a huge improvement!

I also added a fun new label, that I bought to treat myself at the beginning of this year…  the idea of a time stamp on my clothes just took my fancy!  Yes, I am indeedy a bit of a nerd about things being orderly and documented/tallied in a well organised fashion – obviously! What is this blog if not just a further manifestation of my obsession?! These cute labels are from Kylie and the Machine; the coolest of cool label makers out there. I don’t mind being cool occasionally, if it fits my current fancy.

This is the first outfit in my “make 12”.  It’s a bit quick and casual, but I’m so happy I finally cut into this precious, very loved fabric; plus it could not be more perfectly suited to my current lifestyle, so all is good.  I hope to be making more exciting and involved things for future contenders.

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a celestial dress, and some other things

So, I made a dress… or something?!  I’m not 100% sure about this one.  Is it a dress? or a nightie? or maybe a choirboy/celestial angel robe?  The jury is out!

One thing I am sure of is that it’s delightfully floaty and breezy to wear.  And very comfortable.  Another thing I’m sure of is that on its own it’s scandalously see-through… ! so if I’m going to wear it out of the house it requires at least a petticoat or something.  Fortunately, I made a beautiful Ruby slip once upon a time, a few years ago, from ivory crepe.  I actually wear this slip TONNES, and once again it’s come to my rescue.  Thank you Ruby slip!  maybe I should make some sisters for you!  Take the pressure off!

The pattern I used for the new dress is dress R from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, and the fabric is a lovely ivory/cream coloured micro-pleated silky stuff from Fabulous Fabrics.  For the yoke, which needs to be more stable and “solid”, I used a small scrap of old jeans, leftovers from the small stack that have previously been harvested to produce this dress and these jeans too.  To keep up with the recycled jeans vibe, I added double rows of topstitching to all the joins etc, using the same coppery-brown Guttermann’s upholstery thread that I’ve used on previous jeans like my beloved Morgan boyfriends.  The yoke lining is the striped shirting cotton that I used for Sandi’s Perth blouse and for Ms Summer’s summer frock.

I’m also wearing with it my matching denim shoes, also made from old jeans #oldjeansfanfromwayback

oh hey gorgeous girl!

I actually had quite a bit of leftover of the pleated silky stuff, so at the same time I traced out the size 8 of the same pattern and whipped up a quick top for Cassie too.

looks a bit small here but it’s far more oversized on my petite little daughter

Actually, this top started out as a dress too, but surprisingly she wasn’t into it as a dress.  I’d gone to great lengths to find a piece of matching cream-coloured fabric for the yoke for hers, and was very pleased to unearth an old cushion cover of a really nice cream coloured cotton damask from my stash.  Normally, Cassie prefers, nay demands! cream- or ivory-coloured tops, so I was a little nonplussed when she suggested the yoke be dyed!  Who is this person and what have you done with my daughter?!  However I could appreciate that the all cream number as a dress was a little, um choirboy, thus the snap decision to lop off the bottom to make it a top.  Fortunately she was satisfied!

 

Soooo, what else have I been up to?  Well, my friend L had requested that I whip up a simple little dress for her, a replica and replacement for a favourite that had worn out.  She bought the green floral from Fabulous fabric, and I found some black silk for the tie.  I really enjoyed making this for her, though the silk I used for the tie was, no joke, the worst stuff I’ve dealt with for a looooong time.  It was so hideously fray-tastic, and just that little bit too grippy to slide right side out very easily.  It took me almost as much time to turn out the tie as it did to draft the dress pattern and make it up!  Exaggerating?  not by much!

I don’t have a picture of her wearing it, but she did have it on for one of our recent morning teas and she looked gorgeous!

again, looks way better on L…

What else have I been up to??

Well, I’ve been wanting to do this for a while…. my pale grey Acton dress has been worn a lot, but I’d been starting to eye it lately with a jaded, “meh” eye.  SO I took the plunge.  Or, I should say, my dress did.  In to the dye-pot it goes!  Et voila!!  Now I’m newly enamoured with it all over again!  It’s just like having a new dress!!  It’s interesting to me how the different components either took or didn’t take, the dye… For instance, the linen shell of course took up the dye superbly, but the grosgrain ribbon shoulder straps did not.   The zip pull even took on a shade of pink, but the zip itself; well, zip.  The body part of the lining dyed up very intensely, but the bodice part did not!

who is that short-haired doggie?!!   she loves her new summer ‘do!!

Is that all?  Finally, I believe it is!

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light as a cloud

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stylish dress bookI’ve made a softly floaty blouse  🙂  of course just as summer is on the way out… o no, wait, actually summer is over! However we’re still getting days of 40C.  Not that I’m complaining, mind you.  I love the warmth!  Only thing is that I’m getting tired of all my summer things thus the decision to make a new summer thing, ha.  #seasonallyinappropriatesewingforthewin  It’s light and pretty and easily breezy; and delightfully cool.  I fully expect the weather to turn cold now.

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Pattern; based upon dress R from the Stylish Dress Book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori.  I’ve always had luck with the patterns from this book.  But this time … well the pattern is for a short dress, and it’s quite pouffy too, and in this particular fabric it looked just like a nightie! eeeek! this fabric is far too lovely to be a nightie! So I gave it just a little chop and now it’s a top.   Much much better like this… I had also added some rather interesting gathered side pockets to the dress and managed to keep them perfectly intact.  I pinned this picture of a gathered pocket a while ago and have been itching to have a go at incorporating it into a design at some time… And I have! with an added drawstring.  I decided the drawstring was needed with this embroidered fabric, it felt kind of lacking without it.

gathered pocket

Fabric; a rather gorgeous fully embroidered Japanese silk/cotton, bought from the remnants table at Potters Textiles, years’ ago.  Probably about four years ago.   Fully embroidered with a floral motif, the background is very light and fine, quite sheer actually; so a full and voluminous design is just the ticket.  The yoke and bias cut ties on the pockets are ivory crepe from Fabulous Fabrics, cut from the leftovers of my studio faro dress.

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Modifications; Shortened to be a blouse.  Also the front and back are supposed to be gathered into the yoke… I tend to steer clear of gathering.  Instead I folded the excess width into box pleats.  There are four at the front, evenly spaced and close to the centre front, and one in the centre of the back.  And I added those two gathered pockets at the sides.  I love the design of these; interesting and practical, and pretty too without being excessively twee, and they’re a little bit different from your average inseam pocket and patch pocket.  I think they add a certain visual “something” to the top that it needed.

I’m thinking of writing a tutorial to show how I made them…  coming soon  🙂

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Details:

Blouse; based upon dress R from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, embroidered ivory silk/cotton
Shorts; Burda 7723, green cotton gingham, details here and my review of this pattern here
Thongs, made by me, details here

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teal dress

New dress!
Well actually it’s not really  new at all, in fact I made it barely a year ago…  it just feels like a brand spanking new thing somehow just because it’s a brand spanking new colour.

I thought some of the dye batches I’d made up for my Alabama Chanin project still had some oomph in them, and of course I am incapable of throwing out something that still has a use.  I absolutely have to scrounge around to find a further use for it first.  I selected this dress as a suitable victim, ahem candidate for an update.   Its original pale baby blue was never really very good for me, really.   I liked and have worn this dress a lot, but I had to admit the colour didn’t really like me back.  It washed me right out. 
But I still love the fabric; it has an unusual and very charming thing about it, some sort of hard translucent plastic has been “splattered” all over it that sparkle in the sun rather prettily, like random sequins or something.   I only bought the fabric in the first place because I fell in love with those sparkly splatter-dots. 
Anyway; I soaked it, plunged it into an old, cold bath of various mixed up dyes; iDye in Royal Blue, Golden Yellow and small amount of Brown, and left it overnight.  The dye had so much staying power…  the colour came out incredibly strong!  

The buttons on the sleeves were white plastic and I was prepared to change them if the white stood out glaringly hideous afterwards.   However the dye had SO much further oomph left in it that it actually stained the buttons teal as well.  Win!  
Another little happy side effect is that I think the darker colour makes my beloved sparkly splatter-dots stand out even MORE than they did before. 

Moral of the story; you love something but its colour doesn’t love you back?  Dye is most definitely your friend, and well worth a shot  🙂
Do not be afraid of The Dye!
Details:
Dress; dress “f”, from the Stylish Dress Book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori, dyed linen, first appearing in its original, powder blue form here.
Thongs; Havaianas
Location: Canal Rocks, Dunsborough
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Red dress; 6 different ways

It’s been a while since I did one of these!  I don’t really have deliberate dress-up sessions to test out my clothes’ versatility any more, but it’s still interesting for me to look back and get a general overview of just how well my self-made wardrobe mixes and matches and whether everything works together.  This red cotton dress has been an absolute beaut!  it’s been worn a tonne and proved itself to be quite a versatile year-rounder too.  I made it late 2013, using an adaption of dress pattern M from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori.
I think its usefulness has lain in several factors: firstly the cheerful tomato-red colour is supposed to be one of “my” colours, as well as a shade equally at home in both hot and cold weather, and also the style of the dress is quite plain and simple, lending itself very well to mixing and matching with a bunch of other clothing pieces and stylistically not fighting with anything.
Some of the highlights in its life:
At left, its raison d’être was for me to have something for Wildcats games … I wore it to just about every single one and fitted in fine with everyone else!  At right, during a long hot summer it was fabulous to wear just all on its own, sans any adornment.

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At left; the colour looked good with just about every colour cardigan and scarf that I own; and at right, I’m wearing it here inside out! for Fashion Revolution Day.  I chose it for that day mostly because it had patch pockets and not inseam bag pockets, making this the least weird-looking inside-out option in my wardrobe.   Hehe and yes, I was brought up that the insides of a piece should look presentable enough for them to be worn inside out without embarrassment, but not that I purposefully make things with the actual intention of wearing them that way very often!
Speaking of that; the mission statement of Fashion Revolution is a comfortable fit for those of us who sew… after all; the question is “Who made my clothes?”  If you can give an answer, and by that I don’t think they mean just “Brand x” then you are making a difference.  Albeit a small one, but still.  If your answer is “me”, then that can only be a very good thing!  I am planning to do the inside out challenge again this year on 24th April, please join me!

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At left; on cooler days I liked wearing my red dress with my paprika tights because they were such a good colour match, note to self; having matching tights and dresses/skirts is actually an excellent wardrobe idea, I must plan for this more!  At right, I really liked this winter outfit a lot too.  I know summer dresses can be kind of a weird choice for winter, but if the style is loose enough to enable wearing with lots of layers under and over for warmth then I think it can be done very successfully.  I was perfectly warm in this wintery ensemble.  Wintery for Perth, that is.

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Sadly, at its last wearing I decided that this red dress was now just a bit past its best *sob*.  It’s faded soooo much and has developed a noticeable seat in the bottom-al region so out it’s gone to the rag/”potential refashion” bag.  Leaving a giant red-dress-shaped hole in my wardrobe 🙁 but I’m hoping my recent red gingham dress is going to step in to fill that.
We shall see, we shall see….
Later edit; I just couldn’t do it! throw it out, I mean.   A stint in the refashioning bag, and when I next took it out for a look-see it didn’t look nearly as bad as I remembered.  I’ve re-instated it back into the wardrobe again…  🙂
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dress of plastic splattered linen

I’ve made a summery little dress for myself.
This is dress F from the Japanese pattern book Stylish Dress Book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori.   I’ve made this pattern up once before here, and that polka dot dress is still in my wardrobe and remains one of my perennial favourites.  I don’t know if this new one is going to topple its big sister from my favourites list, but anyway, it’ll still be a goodie and bound to get worn a lot in this long, loooong, very hot summer we’re having!
I made a couple of teeny changes, adding inseam side pockets and also leaving off the sleeve ties.  Instead the sleeve opening has a button sewn on to close.  Still looks quite cute and meant I didn’t have to try to sew and turn out those skinny-binny sleeve ties in this lovely but rather challenging fabric.
I know… it doesn’t look particularly challenging in my pictures; it appears from a distance to be a quite ordinary duck-egg blue, handkerchief linen.  Only closer inspection reveals random dots of what appears to be clear plastic, splattered all over it.  This has the happy side effect that in the sunlight it appears to sparkle like diamonds, *squeals, oooh pretty!* and the less than happy side effect that it was quite difficult to actually sew the splatters and they don’t fold well at all; also it, how shall I say this? presents an Ironing Challenge, to say the very least.

 See, obviously linen requires the hottest setting on your iron but the plastic splatters turn into soft and sticky, glue-y spots that stick to your iron and everything else when they’re subjected to heat.  I’ve pondered it for four years; four! since I bought this lovely stuff from the Fabric Store in Melbourne! wondering what I could make with it that would do it justice, finally hit upon this.  Also, reflected all over again upon how super silly it is to leave lovely fabric languishing in le stash when I bought it for the fun of making it up and wearing it, what the heck.
Happily, I think it did work out!  🙂

sleeves finished with buttons in lieu of the ties; and pockets
I finished the neckline with a bias-cut strip, but it was nearly impossible to attain neat looking top stitching over the splatters! so I ended up unpicking all attempts and just hand-stitched it down with invisible fell stitches along both fronts.  I kept the double row of machine stitching on the back neckline, where it miraculously turned out kinda neat-looking.

During construction I pressed either using my ironing cloth or on the wrong side of the fabric, and had to peel it off the cloth or the ironing board each time! and wondered if the splatter dot situation, while a cool concept and I visually I loved it! was in practice going to be a massive pain to iron.
Well I’ve washed and ironed it once now and fortunately I don’t think the dots are going to be a problem.  I ironed the dress inside out and even though it does stick together it’s no biggie to just peel the layers apart while turning it right side out again.  And the plastic does cool and dry hard again pretty quickly. Thank goodness.

The hem line has a tuck around the bottom.  This is actually a crafty fix of a cutting booboo.  You see, when I made my first dress F I had screenprinted my own fabric and I forgot to note that I had actually lengthened the pattern pieces to fit my print.  Actually I find it good practice to add by default like, at least 10cm in length to any dress from a Japanese pattern book.  Anyway, this time I carefreely cut out the pattern as is… result; scandalously short dress.  Darnit.
Fortunately I had enough fabric to cut extra lengthening bits and sewed them on to the bottom, hiding the joining seam up inside this tuck.  You can’t see the join on the inside because I turned up the hem long enough to enclose everything.  The hem is hand-stitched using invisible fell-stitching, and I caught the upper fold of the tuck in the same stitching to secure all the layers together.
Problem solved!
In fact, I have to say that this is a very simple dress which belies its unexpected difficulty-factors! but I am so pleased that it all came together quite happily and satisfactorily in the end.  🙂

Details:
Dress; dress F from the Stylish Dress book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori, plastic splattered linen
Hat; Vogue 8844, ivory corduroy, details and my review of this pattern here

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