Tag Archives: Swap

SWAP; in conclusion

SWAP!  
I have had a mammoth dressup-and-selfie session.  Aaaaagh!  How do models do it?!  Please excuse any grim, loopy, vacant or otherwise weird facial expressions that pop up randomly amongst the following pics. 
The good thing is that I am even more confident now that I have made a fairly cohesive collection and everything goes together pretty much as it should: and most importantly, I actually like it all and know I will enjoy wearing everything.  The former is never a foregone conclusion, so that was a particular relief.  ðŸ™‚
To summarise:  the eleven pieces comprise three 3-packs; that is, three sets of three items that go together; and two wild cards.  My three packs each have one skirt and two tops, and my two wild cards are a dress and a coat.

All the things: and each is linked to their original construction posts.

The Alabama Chanin 3-pack: 

1)   a fully embroidered mid-length skirt
2)  a fully embroidered fitted tank and 
3) a plain fitted tank

The first two are hand-stencilled and -embroidered and all three are completely hand-sewn, and all patterns are from the book Alabama Studio Sewing + Design, by Natalie Chanin.  The midi skirt was the most major and labour intensive item of the entire swap, the embroidery alone taking hours upon hours of my time.  I couldn’t even tell you how many … LOTS! just about sums it up, I think!  The embroidered fitted tank looks deceptively little but was also quite major, coming in second place in time consumption.  I’m almost too scared to wear these two pieces! but I’m pretty stoked with them.  The little white fitted tank was a spur of the moment decision, a substitute for a different sleeveless white top that I had initially planned for the swap.  It was relatively quick and easy, and I’ve already worn it a few times.

The Ivory 3-pack:  

4) Vogue 1170 skirt in ivory leatherette
5) the loose drapey top from the book Drape Drape by Hisako Sato, in ivory rayon/linen knit and
6) Tao blouse, by Tamanegi Kobo, white silk/linen dyed pale cocoa brown

I’d originally planned for my big baggy pockets skirt to be the “bottom” in this group but changed my mind in favour of this twirly little leatherette skirt instead.  I swapped out my swap, haha!  Reason being that I ended up making the other skirt a quite long midi-length skirt, so it has a very similar silhouette to the Alabama Chanin skirt;  this one is very different in length and style to my other two swap skirts and so I decided it adds a bit more variety to the mix.  OK, I admit I realised that only, like two days ago; when I wore it together with my brand new cardigan!  Revelation, and last minute change of plans!  Fortunately I made it within the swap time-frame so it fits in with the rules.    The ivory cowl neck top; I’d originally planned a long-sleeved Tshirt but the fabric was so thin I made the decision to make a double-layered, sleeveless top instead.  The pale cocoa blouse was initially planned to be made with patched-together pieces, all dyed in slightly different shades of brown, but I decided that would be a bit too OTT so I made it plain.  So retrospectively, this is rather colourless and undramatic little group, but y’know what?  I’m very happy with all three pieces, and even more at how they will work beautifully with, like every single thing else in my wardrobe. 

The Autumnal 3-pack; 

7) patchwork skirt adapted from Vogue 8363, made from old jeans
8) hand-knitted Miette cardigan, a design by Andi Satterlund, in aran tweed yarn and
9) top X from the book Stylish Dress Book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori, white broderie anglaise

The sludge-coloured patchwork skirt, well yes, it is pretty eye-catching and more than a bit weird I admit that, but man it’s so comfy and I feel pleasantly kooky and a bit avant grade wearing it too.  The white broderie anglaise blouse; from the very first I’ve loved wearing this nice summery breezy thing! and something like this can be a nice transitional item, worn with more wintery skirts just as the weather starts to cool off just a bit.  I really like the contrast of the delicate white broderie anglais against rough, sombre, rustic patchwork of the skirt.  The mustard cardigan  was supposed to be a jacket, but I’m relieved I went for it as a cardi instead.  

The wild cards; 

10)  (out of print) Vogue 2438, an Issey Miyake designed dress, chocolate brown pin-striped cotton, and 
11) McCalls 5525 trench, charcoal check wool with ivory leatherette piping.

Both made entirely to plan.  I’ve worn the chocolate dress a few times; it’s a simple and comfy, and quietly unusual.  I like it more and more each time, and think it’s going to be a long-term favourite  ðŸ™‚

As well as the 3-packs, I took some photos of other combinations just to show how everything goes well together.  I only took the one photo above with the coat, but that’s OK; it’s a coat and so it will just get tossed over everything when it’s cold.  Otherwise, I think I’ve covered many of the possible wearing combinations of everything.  I might have missed one or two, but yah, I’m OK with that.  I kinda OD’ed on playing dress-ups yesterday and so I can live without photos for a while.  Phew!

So!  This swap is finished.   Please imagine that spoken in the same tone as Poltergeist’s “This house is clean”.

A post mortem… Well, probably it was good for my self discipline to be sensible and methodical, instead of my usual habit of haphazardly and whimsically making whatever my flighty self desires on the spur of any random moment regardless of whether or not it goes with anything else in my wardrobe, ahem!  And I sure do have plenty of autumn/winter things to choose from now!   😉  I really like all the things, and so it’s funny to me that some of them I probably wouldn’t have chosen to make without that plan.   Meaning, maybe it can be a good thing to force yourself to plan and add “usefully” to your wardrobe.  
However, since sewing is my creative outlet as well as a purely practical means of clothing myself, then wild, thoughtless sewing maelstroms are kinda balm for my soul.  And so I reckon it’s OK to indulge occasionally.  Within reason, of course.  😉

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Gold Miette

I have knitted a cardigan.  And weeeeeeee! this is the final thing in my eleven piece swap.   Finished… hurrah!
The Miette is designed by Andi Satterlund, and is available as a free download here.  
Such a great little pattern.  Clearly I love it a bunch since this is my second version in less than six months  *blush*  and I used the exact same wool too; six balls of Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury Tweed Aran.  This time in colour Gold, 360036.   
Actually, the truth is that when I went in to buy the wool for my first Hunter/Forest green version I dithered and agonised for ages between the two colours.   Like, for so long it was embarrassing.  I loved them both.  Finally I chose the green, obviously; but the golden mustard kept haunting my thoughts.  I couldn’t stop thinking about it.  And I knew that it hated being left behind. It really wanted to come home with me too.  Really, it did.
In my original swap plans I had proposed not a cardi but a jacket; in a really nice mustard, open weave fabric which was a Christmas gift from Tim.  But the closer I came to Cutting The Fabric, the more doubt crept insidiously in.  The fabric is really very nice.  I was bound to ruin it.   And thinking about it; I really prefer wearing knitted cardigans to jackets, most of the time.  I remembered the Gold wool.  The colour is identical, and perfect.  Aha!  Swift justification for an acquisition!!  I raced joyfully, but hastily, to the wool store.  What if it had sold out?  But there it was, patiently waiting for me.  Clearly, it was meant to be.  Thus; I made a cardigan instead of a jacket.
And I still have my lovely mustard fabric, which I think would rather be a skirt.  Some day when I get up the courage to take the scissors to it.  ðŸ™‚

Details:
Cardigan: the Miette, in Debbie Bliss Donegal Luxury Tweed Aran col. 360036 Gold)
Top: the loose drapey top from Drape Drape, in rayon/linen knit, details here
Skirt; Vogue 1170 in ivory leatherette, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

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“Baseball” skirt and tee

This is just a bit of silliness really; remember I said I had some idiotic plans for my leftover off-white leatherette? well I just hopped straight into it.  This is a new skirt, leatherette with red stitching to delineate the seam lines, baseball-like.  Yeah I know, kinda weird; and I’m still wondering if I ruined the skirt with that stitching! but it’s just a bit of fun really.  I figure if I absolutely hate it down the track I can always pull out the baseball stitching  ðŸ™‚

I used this picture to help me

The pattern is Vogue 1170; my fourth iteration of this pattern.  I chose it because it had lots of seam lines! and I lengthened it as much as I possibly could given my small piece of leatherette.  Actually, this is a good skirt for a smallish odds and ends of fabric; surprisingly good considering its flippiness.  It’s only the two large front-and-back pieces that take up the most fabric; the smaller pieces can be cut out of edges and corners and other off-cuts.  I left off the pockets and fully lined the skirt with cream polyacetate lining fabric; and I cut the waistband a lot narrower and on a curve to follow the curve of the skirt top.  This resulted in a much better fitting waistband than the original straight one, imo.  Also, I’ve learnt my lesson from my previous leatherette skirt where I found the leatherette waist facing kinda icky worn against the skin; and cut the waistband facing in white linen.  Much nicer!

The stitching is in red silk thread, which I’ve had for years… er, 21 *blush* but who’s counting!  ðŸ˜€ a leftover from knotting Tim’s quilt; and a small portion in matching red topstitching thread, which I ended up having to buy new (grrr!) when I didn’t have just quite enough of the silk.  Don’t you hate that!!
I did the stitching in two passes, first time you do alternate halves of the “wings”, and the second pass you finish off the other side of each one.

And because a baseball skirt needs a baseball tee, I made one; just because  ðŸ™‚   I used two old Tshirts from my refashioning bag.

OK, I thought that this is what a baseball tee looks like; but imagine my disappointment when I googled images of baseball players to see that they actually don’t wear this sort of two-coloured raglan-sleeved tee at all! but instead have a big baggy short-sleeved top, sometimes with a close-fitting long-sleeve top underneath.  NO raglans to be seen.  Confused!   So; why is a tee like this known as a baseball Tshirt, when actually it is not?!  I would love to be enlightened.  Anyhoo; I made it from from my own custom pattern, using an old raglan sleeve tee to help get me started and then fiddling and fine-tuning to fit me.  The embroidered motif on the front of the blue Tshirt, I positioned on the back of the new Tshirt.  It was either that or cut it in half, and even though my new tee is a cobble-together job, doesn’t mean it has to look like one!

With the neckline binding; I cut strips from the sleeves of the cream tee and joined them to get one long enough to do the neckline.  And this time I cut the strips with a bias joining edge: you can just barely make out the join in this picture.  This gave such a vastly superior finish to my usual method of joining on a straight seam!  and I can’t believe it has taken me sooooo long to work out this might be a better thing to do.  Up until now I’ve used a straight joining seam, and the bulkiness of all the layers in that bit make for a slightly bubbly and bumpy bit at that spot on the neckline.  So I hide this by positioning it at the back of the neck somewhere; but if the seam is on the diagonal, like here, then there is less bulk and very little bump issues.  Don’t know why it’s taken this long for the lightbulb to go off, but better late than never  ðŸ™‚

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1170 with minor modifications, off-white leatherette with red decorative top-stitching; my review of this pattern here and my tips for working with leatherette here
Tshirt; self-drafted, made from two old Tshirts
Shoes; Bronx, from Zomp shoes

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Piped trench

I have made a winter coat for myself!  It’s a dark charcoal woollen trench with the seaming and edging accented in pale grey/ivory/bone pleather piping.  The charcoal wool has a light gauzy check woven throughout; itself with a teensy houndstooth pattern woven in each window.  Clever.  Seriously, I often wonder how they make these fabrics.  Who would have conceived a thin houndstooth gauze, woven tartan-style into wool?

The pattern is McCalls 5525; my third version of this pattern.  This is such a great pattern; I completely love it!  It’s so versatile.  Each of mine is quite different from the others; my first version is a smart but pretty-ish thing for winter and early spring, the second one I like for winter evening functions when I want to look glam.  I don’t know what function this one will fill yet.  I would like it to be a just throw on over and go with anything and be instantly warm kind of a coat; but we’ll see.  The piping is a bit distracting.  Hopefully I’ll find it good for something  ðŸ™‚

I bought the fabric a few years ago from a shop called Wool on Collie, in Freo.  At the time it was mostly a knitting and crochet shop, with a very small token offering of fabrics.  I bought it on a mad whim.  The leatherette is from Spotlight; and was also bought on a mad whim.  Me and my bold plans.  I have to confess that the leatherette piping tested my patience and sorely depleted my fun-meter once or twice.  And I feel like unless you get up really close and have a good nosy squizz; you can’t even tell that the damn stuff is leatherette.  Should I have gone for some easy-to-manipulate fabric?  Well, what is done is done; and I’ve learnt new things.  The plus is that there’s quite a bit leftover, and I have some idiotic plans for it….  which may or may not eventuate 😉
The coat is fully lined in black acetate lining fabric from Fabulous Fabrics.  The pale grey, slightly streaky buttons from Fabulous Fabrics are a fortuitously perfect match to my leatherette.  A lucky find!

I’m pleased that my coat is finished, but I was feeling a little flat about it at first.  Y’know when you spend hours and hours meticulously fiddling with something and then aren’t sure whether you even like the thing at the end?  Yeah.  Although I actually like it a bit more after seeing these “another person’s view” pictures of it here.  It looks a little better here than I thought it did in the mirror.  I’ll admit to almost hating it in the few days since I finished it, and only hauled myself into it to take pictures out of a sense of duty to my swap.
Maybe it’s just that the forecast is 29C today and I feel like a right dork putting on a thick winter coat. 

Details:
Coat; McCalls 5525, charcoal wool with leatherette piping, my review of this pattern here
Skirt; Vogue 7303, ivory wool (old)
Camisole; Country Road
Shoes; Vitulli Moda; bought in Melbourne

To the bat cave!   Long coats look satisfyingly dramatic in a gust of wind… 
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Patched pockets

Just to provide further proof of my predilection for unusual clothing … please allow me to present my new skirt.
This skirt is the love-child of four old pairs of jeans.   They were a bit battered but in favourite colours, and had fabric in some areas still in pretty good knick.  Charcoal denim (Cassie’s), olive green corduroy, olive green moleskin and chocolate moleskin (Craig’s).  The chocolate moleskins had previously been nibbled away at to produce the Brown parliament.

The skirt pattern is another offspring of Vogue 8363; yes, the very same as my previous big baggy pockets skirtQuite different, yes?!  That’s the beauty of a well-drafted good basic pattern like this one, you aren’t limited to the plain unadorned versions, which obviously have their place in any well-rounded wardrobe too! but my point is that you are only limited by your imagination  ðŸ™‚
I thoroughly enjoyed making this.  For a start it’s re-using old unwanted textiles, always an activity dear to my heart.  I am in the fortunate position that when my family is tossing out cruddy old clothes they tend to lob them my way first.
And I love puzzles, and making this skirt was a fun puzzle.  This was a joyful and totally engrossing project where I happily zoomed along, cutting out on the laundry floor, up and down, rushing to the sewing machine, the iron; slicing and piecing away without any thought to time passing.  Bliss…

I used the pattern variation that allowed for front slanted pockets, and made whole skirt front and whole skirt back pattern pieces from newspaper, re-drawing the side seams on both front and back to be just slightly more flared and A-line than the pencil lines of the pattern although not quite as pronounced as for my big baggy pockets skirt.  

I unpicked and re-used the waistband from the charcoal jeans and made use of its resident buttonhole although I sewed on a new flat button that won’t dig into the small of my back when I’m sitting back in a chair.  I also re-used the waistband of the chocolate jeans to finish the lower hem, putting its button and buttonhole at the front.  It wasn’t long enough to do the full hemline of the skirt, so I made a filler piece and a few extra belt loops and repositioned all the belt loops to distribute them evenly and hide the joining seams.   I also saved the fly front off the olive green moleskins and re-used it for the skirt closure at the centre back, although retrospectively I’m not in love with this.  It’s quite a bulky fly with a heavy duty jeans zip, but I guess the look of it is in keeping with the whole cobbled together, rough-and-ready look of the skirt.

I cut the patches so as to keep lots of pockets from the various jeans.  The skirt actually has eight pockets in total!… in addition to the two regular slanted front hip pockets that I sewed as part of the pattern; there are two patch pockets, three welt pockets and one curved side pocket in it.  I only did this for fun, for the aesthetics of them, but they are all still functional.

It’s just a bit of silliness really, but I like off-beat random patchwork-y stuff like this  ðŸ™‚
Inspiration?  Well, I’ve pinned like a tonne of this sort of thing…  this Isabel Marant dress, this mystery jacket, and also Yoshimi’s jeans from a few years ago.  Also, while I was busy laying down patches and switching around different shapes and sizes, this cottage kept popping into my head.   Now a cottage probably seems like an off-the-wall (ha!) inspiration for a skirt, but let me explain; superficially, the re-cycled nature of the materials is an obvious commonality between the cottage and my skirt, as well as artistically, in the random and irregular grid of their design.  And in purpose, pockets in clothing have a correlation to windows in architecture.   Pockets and windows are a visual feature of a thing, but also a functional component of that thing; specifically as an opening to/in their respective objects but not the entry point to that object.  
So in that vein; can one consider a pocketless garment to be like a window-less building; and are zips and button-bands akin to the doors/gates of a building?  
Discuss in one thousand words or less and submit by the end of class.  
(only joking)
Sometimes I think it would be lots of fun to have a group to discuss and dissect clothing and fashion theory; like a book club, only far more frivolous.
(sigh) A pipe dream…
This skirt is another swap item.

Details:
Top; top “a” from shape shape by Natsuno Hiraiwa, white cotton, details here
Skirt; Vogue 8363 modified, made from 4 old pairs of jeans, my review of this pattern here

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Big baggy pockets…

… with bonus skirt.
It is an unusual skirt, admittedly.  That’s OK.  One description could focus on the fact that it is softly creamy in shade, ever-so-slightly crinkly in texture, interestingly layered in construction, and easily breezily comfortably summery as a whole.  Another could point out that it is made of flippin’ curtaining off-cuts for crying out loud, and features ginormous flappy saddlebag things.  Well let’s not over-romanticise, hmmm?  But I like it, nonetheless.  And I don’t mind curtaining fabric; in fact, one of my most useful and reliable favourites is another curtaining skirt..
I started out with Vogue 8363, a plain, waist-banded pencil skirt with simple variations; and altered it to make it a bit more A-line, cutting the side edges like so; both front and back.  And then added my little added designer-y flight of fancy in the form of those big wrap-around bags.

They are basically sacks; like envelopes or pillowslips, that are sewn within long long extensions of the narrow waistband.  These cross over at the centre back, wrap around my hips and tie loosely at the front.  The skirt closure is the regular kind, by invisible zip in the centre back seam.  
I was inspired by this skirt.  Does anyone else have a go at actually doing something with their pins?  I have pinned LOTS of things, but have only followed through on nutting out making a few.  I have big BIG plans for making tonnes of things from my random unbridled pinnings; but the same ol’ story; so much inspiration, so little time.  And there’s only so many clothes that one can in all good conscience add to one’s wardrobe.  Striking a balance is key, my friends, striking a balance.  However I do feel pretty good about this particular skirt since it’s pretty much a freebie; made from the off-cuts of Cassie’s curtains.  I’d found the absolutely perfect thick calico curtains on super special in Spotlight.  Correction; the fabric was perfect but the top had been made as pencil pleat curtains, which I loathe and detest with a fiery passion.  So I bought them too long and cut off the tops, keeping the hemline intact, and re-sewed the top edge with my preferred triple pleat curtain tape, so they match nearly all the other curtains I’ve made for our house.  And was rewarded with a few pieces of leftover fabric… which I have now put to good use  ðŸ˜‰  Double, no… triple win!

Details:
Skirt; a modification of Vogue 8363, thick calico curtaining fabric, my review of this pattern here
Top; the loose drape top slightly modified, from drape drape by Hisako Sato, white crinkly cotton jersey, all details here
Sandals; Franco Burrone, from Marie Claire boutique

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Issey Miyake tucked dress

I’ve made a new dress.  Part of that swap-eroonie…. which does seem like a vague dream from the distant past now; but actually upon which progress has happily been made.    *gasp*  *self back-pat*.
My new dress is from an old Vogue Issey Miyake pattern, Vogue 2438, hailing from maybe the late 90’s? I think? I don’t know for sure.  If someone does then please feel free to enlighten me!  (Later edit; 2001)  I bought it through ebay.  The dress is basically a giant, almost shapeless sack of a dress that achieves shaping with a few darts and two big strategically placed folds held in place with snap tape.  You are supposed to arrange the snaps to make the folds more or less pronounced, as desired.  Pretty cool concept, huh?   This is in the same vein to another Issey Miyake dress I have, of black jersey, and is perfectly representational of my desire to make things that look kinda ordinary on first sight but on closer inspection turn out to be just a touch weird and slightly “off”.  Those of us into clothes often see the link between our fashion choices to our personalities; and I think that description pretty much sums up me in a nutshell too  😉

 it’s asymmetrical so the side views are a bit different
there are also darts down each side from the underarm to the hip

This dress is supposed to be made in stretchy fabric too, but scandalously, it is not.  It is a thickish woven cotton, deep chocolate brown with a cream pin-stripe, bought from the Fabric Store in Melbourne about three years ago.  I was so in love with my vision of this particular dress, in this particular fabric that I was just like; oh, recommended fabrics, pfft.   I know I know, such a rebel, tut tut.  The recommended fabric is generally like a primary tenet of dress-making; that thou shalt ignore at thy peril and risk of permanent exclusion from the hallowed halls of sewing Utopia.
O woopsie.  *blush*
Well ok, I didn’t just gratuitously leap in and go for it helter skelter; I did measure to check feasibility.  I sized up, and also altered the snap tape placement to accommodate my shape; in a little bit in at the waist and out a little bit at the hips.  And it all worked out.  In fact it is pretty much exackertackerly just how I wanted it to be, so I’m happy!
the back tuck is on quite a slanted curve

Details:
Dress; Vogue 2438, chocolate/cream stripe cotton
Shoes; Perrini, had for so long I’ve forgotten where I bought them now.

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Alabama Chanin; a tank top

Fortunately I have managed to finish the matching embroidered tank top to go with my skirt.  Hurrah! for plane trips and the resulting enforced hand-sewing time!  I’m so happy with the full ensemble; I like how it looks like a full dress, and that if I choose I can break it up into the separate components.  The pattern is the fitted top from the  Alabama Studio Sewing + Style book (Natalie Chanin), and is made from the same fabrics as the skirt; a thickish, cafe au lait cotton jersey substratum (KnitWit) with a dark olive, lightweight jersey overlay (Potters Textiles), the latter stencilled with the Anna’s Garden stencil from the same book as outlined here, and top-stitched with Gutermanns topstitching thread.  

I took a slight swayback wedge out of the tank pattern…. looking at the picture below I could possibly have gone further with that, oh well, next time.  Otherwise it has the same width shoulder straps and the same low rise of the back neckline as the original pattern.  The stitching throughout is in exactly the same style as the skirt; with all seams stitched and flat-felled by hand, and the neckline and armhole binding sewn on using herringbone stitch.

My Mum wanted to know if the jersey fabric loses its stretch though being embroidered; it does lose a little, but not all of its stretch.  The fabric also shrinks ever so slightly through the process of quilting the two layers together. Not drastically, but if your muslin is skintight then I reckon this is definitely something to bear in mind.

OH BTW! a little tip I forgot to mention before… when the pattern pieces have been cut out and stencilled, stay-stitched and are awaiting embellishment; the very first thing I did was to tack a scrap of paper to each piece as above, marking the centre front or centre back of each piece, as applicable.  The pattern pieces for both tank and skirt, are actually all so similar to each other that I think this is an essential precaution!
Well, was it was worth all the hours of hand-work?  But of course.  I’m not going say otherwise now, am I?  ðŸ˜‰

Actually, seriously, I totally love my AC pieces and it was no biggie to make the tank top; each pattern piece is quite small and manageable and the embroidery can be knocked off in a couple movies or a short plane trip quite easily.  A little tank top is not really the sewing marathon that the midi skirt is.  I’m even feeling optimistic about taking on another Alabama Chanin project…! (gasp!) um, well… in a while.  Maybe, hehe.  Well, I should really, I bought a whole lot of beads while Mum, Cassie and I were in Melbourne, in a zealous fit of enthusiasm, so hmmm.  (blush)

Details:
Top; the fitted top from the Alabama Studio Sewing + Style book,  hand-embroidered and -stitched cotton jersey knit in two solid colours
Skirt; the midi skirt, same as above, all sewing details here
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp shoes

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