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“Swedish” dress

I’ve made my Swedish souvenir    🙂
I bought this linen-mix with a Swedish designed print in Stockholm during our Scandinavian holiday.  I fell in love with the bold and yet delicate print in orange, soft greeny-browns and black on a creamy background.  Bold and delicate?! sounds like an oxymoron but I think this design does magically manage to fit into both categories somehow!  The pattern is Vogue 2900 and I “framed” each piece in the design with a skinny strip of black cotton to highlight the piecing in this quietly interesting dress design.  
I chose to do this because I felt the broad sweeps of a bold – yet delicate! – print like this could lose much of its impact upon being cut up into small pieces… I think the black framing successfully highlights the piecing of the pattern as a feature of the dress, while still being subtle enough to allow the print to hold its own and shine equally as a feature of the dress as well.
In its own way, the black framing is a bold and delicate thing, too!

I’ve long admired all the many beautiful versions of this pattern made by Yoshimi.  Beth recently wrote about the concept of a “pattern whisperer”; and in fact, during Yoshimi’s stay with me she recommended this pattern to me, saying that she thought it would suit me.  I have very high regard for Yoshimi’s taste and style and so paid careful attention to her “pattern whisper”.  And I am glad I did because I love it!  Thanks Yoshimi!

I took my time with this dress, cutting and precision-stitching the bias cut strips of black cotton and lining up all the black corners and edges just exactly right.  All the seams are highlighted in this way, except for the bodice centre front seam; I couldn’t see it working in neatly with the edging on the centre front split at the top, and the centre back seam, which again, having the black edging would not have worked successfully with the white invisible zip closure.  All the edges; the armhole edges, neckline edge, pocket edges and the lower edge of the dress, are similarly edged with the same black cotton.

It’s funny; I’ve had a large piece of this black cotton on a big cardboard roll for so many years, and it’s come in so very handy for so many little touches to about a zillion projects, to the point where I felt that it was like a never ending supply.  With this project I suddenly realised I’m down to the last half a metre!  Panic!  I’m going to have to buy more!!

I used my own tip to perfectly align those black strips on either side of the invisible zip.

Details:
Dress; Vogue 2900, Swedish print with black cotton edging outlining each piece
Sandals; Zomp, from Zomp shoes

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one week one pattern

Hello!  I’ve been taking part in One Week One Pattern again.  Where we wear a representative of one pattern, for every day of a week.  I am completely unable to resist a clothing challenge and particularly one tied up with sewing, so I signed up immediately  🙂
Before it started I did a quick recce of my clothes and checked the weather forecast.  I have several contenders for the pattern I could have used but given the winter-y type of week we were expecting I went for the warmest option!  my jeans collection, made using Burda 7863.  At the time of signing up I had six left; two others have been chucked out.  So quick sticks I made another, the last pale coffee pair, so I could get through the week without doubling up.  Not that I’m, um like, weirdly obsessive about things like that or anything  😉

So, some thoughts;
1. black stretch corduroy: 
probably one of my least favourites, which is kinda ironic given that black jeans are supposed to be such a fabulous wardrobe staple.  I don’t know why I’m so ambivalent about these jeans.  They are useful, but I pretty much only wear them when I’m travelling or if I’m in a rare mood for black.
2. burnt orange stretch corduroy
old, very comfy and long term favourites, but if I’m brutally honest these look pretty awful now.  For at home, doing chores, only.  I’ve come thisclose to making them into a skirt.  This might still happen at some point.
3. burnt brown stretch bengaline;  
my cool new ones and the current favourites.  I’m very much in love with everything about them – the colour! love it so much!!!! – and am really excited about their possibilities with my other autumnally coloured stuff.
4. white stretch denim flares; 
still sort of nice, even though they’re not really very fashionable I still like wearing them a lot.  I sorta go in and out of love with them.  It’s nice to have some flares to mix things up a bit too.
5. olive/grey stretch gabardine; 
My oldest pair, that have even outlasted my two other Burda 7863’s.  I’ve gone through short periods of hating these too, but I always hang onto them because I absolutely know I’ll come around to loving them again.  Actually I would be a bit devastated if they died.  The fabric is really the nicest, classiest, and probably the best quality out of all my jeans, ever.
6. cafe au lait stretch bengaline; 
my newest ones, made up quick so I could have seven representatives for the challenge and not really loved yet.  I’m a bit uninspired by them right now but I’m sure they’ll come into their own soon enough.  Maybe when worn with my lighter ivories and whites.  I do like outfits that are a mix of pale neutrals.
To be honest… I’m struggling to like them.  Something terrible happened.  I liked them at first, and then all of a sudden the words “beige slacks” popped into my head.  And the rose-tinted glasses fell away from my eyes and an awful new reality was revealed.  In my group of friends we have a bit of a joke about “beige slacks”.  As in, isn’t it the most un-stylish thing you can imagine.  Not necessarily the things themselves, sometimes you see pants of this colour looking just gorgeous although, granted, not always.  It’s mostly just the words, “beige slacks” that kill the dream, all your hopeful ideas that you might be looking nice today.  I’m trying to tell myself that my jeans are nice, that they are cafe au lait bootlegs, which sounds kinda smart but I might be kidding myself.  I think they might be beige slacks.  Oh, the horror.
7. pale grey non-stretch corduroy;
made into a skirt; and yes these might not look like jeans but they do fit in with the group! originally this skirt was a pair of jeans made using Burda 7863.  The knees got all stretched out and saggy, but the upper bit was fine and the colour is so great so I re-made them into this skirt as described here.  I still love this strange little jeans/skirt, and think I’m within the rules to count them in my Burda 7863 line-up, yes?!
My OWOP14 Flickr set with links to the individual pieces worn each day can be viewed here…

So, obviously I love this pattern so I won’t go on about it.  Jeans are comfy and practical and warm, so yay.  But after a whole week of wearing jeans I am really looking forward to getting back to my skirts and dresses.  I was so pleased I could wear a skirt on the last day, today!

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blue ray

Winter is officially over here, so right on target I’ve finished a wintery little dress.  🙂 
I spent some quality time with my dyepot, dyeing bright blue corduroy in four different moody blues for the colour blocking.    This is my second version of Vogue 1316; I’ve dreamed up several different plans for this great pattern which I want to explore, including this one…  
One of the things about a colourblock design is that I think it’s more effective if the fabrics are all the same type and weight etc.  As well as the colours blending in and going together nicely somehow.  And it’s hard enough to find great fabric that you love, in great colours that you love too, let alone a single fabric in four great colours that you love, and that go together harmoniously.  Impossible!  So I made my own nicely co-ordinating set of coloured corduroys  🙂
My originally bright blue cotton corduroy is from Spotlight.
I divided the pattern pieces up into their colour batches and laid them out on my fabric, leaving a good margin around each piece to allow for a little error, just in case, then cut the colour batches apart for dyeing.  Before dyeing them I overlocked all raw edges to decrease the risk of distorting or stretching out the pieces during the dyeing process.  

I labelled each piece and was super careful to keep each label with its piece throughout the process and not get them mixed up!
my tutorial for basic dyeing here

I used iDye in various strengths of Black, Crimson and Chestnut; to get, from left:
-deep inky navy, from a biggish dose of Black, 
-royal purple; from a medium biggish dose of Crimson
-deep teal/aqua; from a medium dose of Chestnut, 
and finally the rightmost batch was soaked overnight in the leftover bath of Chestnut just to take the edge off that brightness, tone it down and dirty it up a bit.  The piece on the right is a small scrap of the original colour saved for comparison.

I took my own advice and put in pockets that sit underneath those long curved hip bands again, as described here.  Yes Vogue, I improved your pattern.

The dress is fully lined with navy blue polyacetate and I used a long, navy blue invisible zip.  As previously, I re-shaped the dress to be a little less boxy and bit more hourglass-y by re-fitting through those long back seams that run almost the full length of the dress.  A useful feature!

I’m so happy with this dress! it’s funny; I’m rarely 100% happy with things I’ve made but this project is pretty close to being completely satisfactory for me.   I’ve made another highly satisfying thing recently too, which I am yet to photograph and blog about.  The weather needs to warm up a touch first, but I’m so excited about that one too! I have to say, making two things in a row that I’m super happy with, in quick succession, has put me on SUCH a high. Honestly, I wish I could bottle this feeling.

Details:
Dress; Vogue 1316, blue corduroy dyed in 4 different shades using various iDye dyes, my review of this pattern here.
Tights; self-drafted, navy blue stretchy stuff, details here
Boots; Roberto del Carlo, from Zomp shoes

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cafe au lait bootlegs

New jeans/pants/whatevs.
Burda 7863, stretch bengaline from Spotlight.
So.  I guess that’s about all I have to say! I’ve made this pattern what, nine times now, I think.  Speaks volumes.  The colour is softly pretty, a nice and easy and inoffensive pale neutral.  I love it.
Maybe they’re a bit boring?  Well, they’re basics.  Basics usually are.  I’m sure they’ll get lots of use.
Eventually.

The nitty gritty, re my usual alterations and fitting:   
Extra 10cm or so added to the length at the lower hem, just in case.  I always pre-wash my fabric; and make up the pants to the hemming stage, then wash again, then hem.  It really helps guard against leg-length shrinkage.
Another always-addition is to added a bit of length onto the waistband length at CF so as to accommodate a zip placket
And my usual fitting alteration to accommodate my slight sway back is to try them on inside out BEFORE sewing up the CB seam including the waistband, and to pinch it in; as described and pictured here.   Works really well for a really good fit, every single time.

Details:
Jeans; Burda 7863, stretch bengaline
Tshirt (under); Vogue 8879, ivory cotton jersey, details here
Jumper; the Hayward, knitted by me in Noro Ayatori, details here

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the travelling yellow skirt freak show

Y’ello!  Calling all sunbeamers  😀
I am taking part in the Travelling Yellow Skirt Freak Show!  the brainchild of Melanie aka Miz Bagg at Bag and a Beret; and you can read the story behind the yellow skirt and its journey around the globe here; as well as find out how to sign up to join in the fun.  
Your mission, should you choose to accept it … *dun! dun! dundundun! dun!* 

I’m a tiny bit embarrassed at my unexciting styling of the skirt particularly when you check out how cool everyone else has done it!  But I’m being true to myself: “pared back” is my thing and when it came down to how I would choose to wear it with no influence or comparing myself to others who have gone before me; then a basic white tee, on a beach, the Indian Ocean lapping at my heels, IS pretty much Me in a nutshell.   The skirt is statement enough!
And I’m in my happy place, this particular beach is my very favourite beach of them all  🙂
Like everyone else I’ve added my own discreet little “I woz ‘ere” …

So, I am wearing another new thing here, actually there are two! other new things here made by me recently; the ivory Tshirt is view A of Vogue 8879 made in a soft cotton jersey from Spotlight.  Pattern notes: the sleeves are cut on, making it a bit of a fabric hog.  I might not make it again, or if I do I’ll probably modify it to have set-in sleeves, just like any old plain boring tee…  o dear, another example of my boring-ness.
Oh, the second new thing: well, underneath the skirt I am wearing some new jeans, because it was only about 16C on the beach when I took these photos.  Brrr! too cold for just a skirt!  I’ll blog about those soon.
Later dudes!

Details:
Tshirt; Vogue 8879, ivory cotton jersey
Skirt; THE TRAVELLING YELLOW SKIRT

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olive faux suede top

I’ve made a new top  🙂
Yoshimi and I saw this very realistic faux suede while out shopping together in Tokyo last January and we both bought some to make tops.  Yoshimi made her lovely pale pink top quite quickly.  And now I’ve finally made mine too; at last!  I’m embarrassed to be so slow!
I used Burda magazine 10/2009, pattern 121, a rather plain and unassuming little pattern that caught my eye from the first; a nothing-to-it kind of a pattern really but with an understated, relaxed, almost sporty chic that is quietly modern and urban.  And sometimes very plain and basic is the best choice, especially when you just want the fabric to speak for itself.  

And obviously, the fabric is everything in this bare-bones design!  I trialled this same pattern recently to make my flannelette PJ top, which is comfy but about as un-chic as you can get!  but hey, flannelette.  This suede is only about a thousand times classier.  When your fabric is really beautiful it’s hard to go wrong I reckon, so I was pretty sure it would turn out ok.  
And fortunately, I think it did  🙂

The pattern is designed for real suede or leather, so it’s quite roomy and easy-fitting to suit a heavier and inflexible fabric like that.  Thus why it works so beautifully as a PJ top, natch.  It has a long centre front split, so you can just slip it over your head, and splits at the bottom edge of each side seam. I sewed it up like I would fabric, not suede except; I left the cut edges of the sleeve and lower hem edges and the neckline edges clean-cut and unfinished, like suede; since my fabric is quite stable and doesn’t fray.
I’m very happy with it and think it looks quite nice with my bootleg jeans!  And I still have a little bit leftover, maybe enough for a skirt.  But what should it be like, hmmm.  I’m thinking something asymmetric and off-kilter, with a random feel to it.  Possibly with some hardware.  But too crazy, maybe?  Something to ponder for a while  🙂

Details:
Top; Burdastyle magazine 10/2009-121, olive/grey suedette
Jeans, Burda 7863, burnt brown bengaline, details here
Socks, knitted by me, details here
Shoes; Francesco Morichetti, from Zomp shoes

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Denim slides!

I’ve made some shoes!!!  This is my first foray into “proper” footwear.  Yeah, I made slippers recently, but I’m not counting those.  And technically these are slides, which are pretty basic things on the shoe scale, really.
But still.  They are real shoes!  Wooooooooooooooo!
ok, I’m sorry, calming down now.  I’m just a bit excited about them  🙂
So, for ages I’ve dreamt longingly about having a go at making my own shoes.  However cool stuff like shoe-making courses are just not on offer here in Perth.  Well that’s just that and it can’t be helped, but life is too short to not do stuff that you really want to do, right? so I just decided to GO FOR IT!  havva go, just DO it, whatever, even without a teacher or the tools or even the faintest idea of what I was doing.
The choice of denim; well every time, and I mean every time my friend J and I go out on girly shopping trips, as we head into our favourite shoe stores I say for the eleventy-billionth time; “ooh, I really would like a pair of denim- or denim-coloured shoes.”  I’ve often though they would be sooooo useful and would go with a lot of my wardrobe.  I mean, we all know denim jeans go with everything, right?  So, it stands to reason, denim shoes should go with everything too.  And; quick aside; honestly, why has that thought not occurred to shoe-makers yet?  Because so far my search for denim-y shoes has been one big, long, mournful FAIL.  It’s sad, but they are a non-existent beast.  Or should that be a pair of non-existent beasts, maybe?  I still wanted them though.
And now I have some!
Now; before I introduce my procedure for making these, obviously I am no expert and I have no idea what I’m doing.  I’m making it up as I go along with educated guesses, and I don’t have the proper equipment, like lasts or an industrial sewing machine.  I’m sure shoe-making experts would look at my efforts here and roll about, laughing helplessly at how awful they are.  It’s true, they are far from perfect.  Hopefully I can improve!

For the bases I used two balsa wood blocks from Bunnings; chosen mainly because I spotted them and it seemed like a good idea at the time.  I drew a template of each of my feet, overlaid/combined them to draw a single “master” template.  I used a coping saw to cut out the main chunks and get the right shape; and then three sheets of sandpaper to smooth and contour, ranging from super rough to light.  I used the roughest sandpaper to do most of the contouring for my foot pads and heel pads to sit in the base nice and snug and comfortable.
Shaping/contouring the wooden bases to be equal-sized and -shaped mirror images to each other and to fit my feet was the MOST time consuming part of the whole thing.  Really, ten progress photos slotted in here would be a fair and accurate representation of this step rather than just one; but that would be extremely boring, so just a few then…

I used an pair of old jeans for the denim.
I cut long strips for the side coverings, and topstitched the ends down using orange thread, to match the orange thread usually used in jeans topstitching.  Glued it in place using PVA exterior wood glue.  I chose this glue because it was not too quick-drying therefore easy to work with, and yet is still super hardwearing and durable and dries to a hard, water-resistant finish.  Not waterproof, mind you.  NOT that I’m planning to wear my shoes to slosh about in puddles or anything like that, aiyiyi perish the thought!
Clipped the curves etc, to minimise overlapping, so the edges would lie as flat as possible; and glued them down, upper and under.

Made a template for the top bits via the auditioning of a thousand “muslins”; well, not really, but it felt like it.  The winning design was cut so as to make a feature of the existing jeans’ side seam with the allowances double top-stitched down in that distinctive shade of Levi’s orange.  The tops are double layered; lined with plain denim, sewn right sides together then turned out and under-stitched.  The excess at the sides was trimmed to wrap right around underneath my foot then glued in place.

I made a padded insert by trimming a purchased foam shoe insert from Coles to fit, then stitching to a piece of denim around the edge using orange thread.  The ends were clipped, turned under and everything glued in place.

I covered the curved part of the sole with denim…

Finally, I cut thick rubber floor matting (Bunnings) to fit the soles using a stanley knife, and glued this in place.  This will be quite hard-wearing and will stand up to a lot of knocks, hopefully.

Making these was an interesting experiment, and a learning exercise in how not to do a few things.  Yes, a second pair of shoes is in the pipeline already.  My second pair will definitely be better, I think.  My first mistake; balsa wood does not hold nails, thus the need for lots of glue.  I’m definitely going for harder wood and nails in the future.
The big question for me is: am I going to dare to actually wear my shoes? outdoors? like, for a full day?  well today I almost did since I was meeting my same friend J for lunch, and I thought they went really nicely with my outfit… but then I chickened out!  Too many puddles around from the recent rain :S
Maybe I’ll just keep them exclusively for me-made May, haha!  😉
No, of course I’ll wear them, but it’s going to be hard to avoid babying them.  I’m ridiculously pleased with them.  Well so far, until I can make something better anyway!

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Dusting slippers

I’ve made something useful; slippers, that clean!
I pinned these mopping slippers a while ago, and have now got around to making my own.  See, we have no carpets in our house and lots of animals; meaning furry dust-bunnies appear on a daily basis to scurry and swirl across the floor like mini tumbleweeds across the desert.  Meaning I’m forever getting out my big floor dusting mop thing out from where it lives in the cupboard under the stairs and doing the sweep of the house.  Which is a chore.  Well, now I can do the same job just by performing graceful balletic sweeps with my dainty pointed toes into the corners of the room, as I glide about the house, doing whatever I’m already doing, without having to go and fetch the duster.  Hands-free.
Which is not a chore, but fun!
Well, that’s the theory, anyhow  🙂
Making them is a very simple procedure…

I bought a couple of  dusting pad refills; and also used some extra odds and sods from around the place; a thick cleaning sponge for padding so they are comfortable to walk around in on our hard floors, and an old towel for the straps and lining.  I also used a bit of an old bedsheet to “interface”, if you will; effectively it’s there to stabilise and hold all the lining and padding bits together.   The sponge I used for padding is actually a bit smaller than my feet but it still does provide a nice soft comfy padding when I’m walking around on them.  I already had these in my cleaning cupboard, which was lucky!  The sponge is very thick, so I cut it into three layers like you would a sponge cake.
I drew a template of my foot and cut out two generously sized versions out of the towelling and bedsheet lining, sandwiched a piece of the sponge between them and sewed the three layers together around the edge of the sponge.

Then cut the foot straps from the edges of the towelling, making use of the existing selvedge on one side and hemming the other edge.  Fitted it to my foot dimensions, making them nice and snug so they stay on my feet ok; but not so tight that I can’t slip my foot in easily in one go.

Finally cut the micro fibre dusting pad with a big fold over allowance all around the edges, and simply folded the edges over as I went along, top-stitching it down around the edge.

Dust bunnies; begone!
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