Virgo

… the
sign of the maiden.

I have made a maidenly new dress  🙂
This delicate feathery ivory lace fabric was a very long term resident in my stash.  It’s a tricky customer; sooo cobwebby and so sparse that it has absolutely no structure or form whatsoever and it both stretches and collapses upon itself.  For years I’ve wondered what on earth I could do with it.  Finally I just decided a simple dress would do, and then tried to work out how its wayward flightiness could be tethered into some sort of “dress” arrangement.
Essentially it’s a shirt-dress.   The backbone of the dress is the collar, the shoulder and armscye seams, and the front button and arm bands: these are the only stable elements in the dress; and the lace fabric just hangs loosely from those structural components.  

The white lace is from Fabulous Fabrics years ago, and for the bands and collar I used a perfectly colour-matched
ivory swiss dotted cotton voile with sparsely scattered fluffy dots, bought at Potters Textiles
last year.  The buttons… ah, the
buttons!  They are lovely, antique
mother-of-pearl beauties that were given to me by ElleC… thank you so much
ElleC!  I used two of these buttons
previously in this blouse and now this new dress uses the remainder… and, yes! It
was really really hard to cut them
off their little card, but I decided that they are too lovely to sit in a
button tin forever and they deserve to be seen!  I think the marquise shape of the buttons is a purr-fect match for that same-shaped motif in the lace  🙂

I had
finagled the number of buttonholes to use every single last one of the buttons
so I was pretty darn devastated when the shank of one broke as I was stitching
it on… noooooo! And a snowflake’s chance in hell of ever finding another one!
So it was oh-so carefully super-glued together before stitching on, however I was still worried about it so
I’ve super-glued it and its
buttonhole together and to the dress. 
Now the left sleeve can never
be unbuttoned and I expect I will be obsessively checking to see that that
button is still in place forever and ever after.  (sigh)

 I stabilized the shoulder seams with a
strip of the same ivory cotton, and the armscyes and side seams are encased with Seams Great, a gift from velosewer;  thanks Maria!  the Seams Great is a sheer and flimsy creamy-coloured tape and is virtually invisible from the right side of the garment.  

inside view

I experimented with a few different finishes for the lower edge of
the dress and all my results were just too hideous for words so the lower
hem is simply cut straight and left unfinished.  This does leave quite a nice ethereal lightness and floatiness to the
lower hem, and fortunately the fabric will not fray.

The pattern is Burdastyle magazine 05/2010 dress 111, which I have used once before to make a completely different style of dress!  Technically, this new version of this pattern has a few slight variations: the front bands are
narrowed to a finished width of 2.5cm; which is visually more in keeping with
the delicacy of the lace fabric. the sleeves are shortened and I sewed a very
narrow band as a one piece sleeve-band placket, pictured below. 
The front bodice was rotated to eliminate the bust dart because the fabric is so delicate sewing darts would have been difficult and they would have looked weird too.  I cut the
sides to be a straight and wide A-line from underarm to the lower hem.

Details:
Dress;
Burdastyle magazine 05/2010, 111 modified, ivory lace and ivory cotton, my review of this pattern here
Petticoat;
Burda 8071, powder blue silk, details here
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Screen-printing; autumn leaves

Hello! been screen-printing some more  🙂
btw, Shelley and Ute asked about the ink and colour-fastness of; we are using Permaset Aqua Textile Printing Ink, you can read about it, search for stockists and buy online here.  I got some at Jacksons art suppliers.  wrt colour-fastness I am veeeeery pleased to report that I have laundered my Poppies set and it came out as fresh and clean and bright as when it was first printed… phew!  (wipes sweat from brow)  I had this horrible feeling that I was going to pull an all-over pink and poppy-less set of lingerie from the washing machine, but no, this ink is marvellous stuff!  so yeah, my experience is that if you follow the instructions on the jar and iron like mad, then happy, print-y laundering will ensue.
But back to the current project…
This time I printed two large-ish pieces of fabric, and tried to make a random repeating print, one that had an interlocking-overlapping design so that repeat prints looked more organically seamless and less obvious where the design started and finished with each one.  My teacher photocopied my design to show me how you can cut it up the middle and place the sides back on themselves to see how the design needs to be altered so that it fits in visually.

Also, because I wanted my leaves to be an autumnal colour range as opposed to one single solid colour, I did not mix anything but instead plopped blobs of colour along the top of the screen and just allowed them to mix and marble together however they wanted during the screening.  I started with blobs of Mid Yellow and Purple, which eventually with repeat screenings became a kind of olive, which I re-used and kept adding new little blobs of yellow and purple to it at the top of the screen randomly.  More yellow got into the mix than purple because I wanted the leaves to “glow”, and loved how the streaks of yellow accentuated this effect.
I had to cut two identical paper stencils because I did it in two lots, the first length of fabric in class and the second at home.  My second effort (at left in the picture below) clearly has a much better alignment! haha hardly surprising, that!  and this time, remembering the difficulties I had with cutting pattern pieces from my poppies print, I tried as much as possible to print right up to and over the edges of my fabric pieces.
Something I forgot to mention in my murky blocks post but have found indispensible!! is to draw a large arrow on the back side of the stencil, indicating “this side up” of course!  With designs like mine which are abstract but still directional, having this has saved me several times from making a terrible mistake…

Once both lengths had dried it looked a little dull and I fancied the idea of a random red leaf here and there, both for visual interest as well as to fill in some gaps.  I didn’t use the screen, but just cut a single-leaf stencil from thickish paper and sort of “sploodged” with a small amount of ink on the end of a paintbrush to fill it in.  Because the paper degrades and starts to bleed quickly, I only used each one about three or four times each before needing to cut a new one.  This colour is the leftover, so the same as, my poppies print.

Once all this had dried, I went over with a Sharpie laundry marker and hand-added the leaf stalks in later.
(and, you can see in my first photo, some little pencilled-in crosses between the leaves? these are my alignment guides and will wash out, no worries  🙂

Thoughts:
Not fabulous but getting… somewhere?!  Has some disastrous spots, but overall I eventually wrangled it into something I like.  I already know how I’m going to use it!  Since I’m less happy with this than with my murky block print then paradoxically I will feel less angst-y about slicing into it and sewing it up first… if that makes any sense.  No, I know it doesn’t.  I’m intimidated by fabrics I love more, so am more likely NOT to use them through weird feelings of inadequacy that I can’t do them justice… pretty silly, huh?
Anyway this will get made up quickly… stay tuned!

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the paper doll project

(I’ve pledged to wear only clothes handmade by me this year and to sketch my daily outfits in my Fashionary.  I’m calling this the paper doll project)

8th-13th August
from left:
grey gathered hole dress, grey/black stripe Tshirt, black wool tights, ivory scarf
blue “p” top, grey thermal, beige Tshirt (not blogged), little grey skirt, denim-look tights
blue “hoodie” Tshirt top, beige Tshirt (unblogged), navy blue corduroy skirt, beige scrumpled leggings, olive hand-knit socks
ivory blouse, petrol corduroy skirt, swirly leggings, russet hand-knit socks, cream hand-knit jumper
grey/white striped Tshirt, sludgy little skirt, f-leather jacket, black wool tights
teal silk dress, army jacket, paprika tights

14th-19th August
from left:
powder blue silk blouse, emerald corduroy skirt, iceberg knitted cardigan, black wool tights
Alexander McQueen kimono, lt grey thermal, lt grey skirt, spiral leggings, russet handknit socks
calico knitted cardigan, white Tshirt, strawberry jeans, santorini socks, army jacket
blue grandpa Tshirt, red velveteen skirt, olive felted jacket, beige scrumpled leggings, scarlet socks (a grungy day, as I was screenprinting all day!)
powder blue silk blouse, wedgwood blue damask skirt, karajini socks
black billowy blouse, rusty red wool skirt, black wool tights, army jacket

20th-24th August
from left:
“sleeve” Tshirt, blue PM “hoodie”, navy corduroy skirt, paprika tights
sew bossy dress, calico knitted cardigan, beige scrumpled tights, blue hand-knit socks
blue-bell sleeved top, emerald corduroy skirt, white Tshirt (under), black wool tights
ivory lace dress (to be blogged), beige satin petticoat
silver sequinned skirt, white drape-y top, army jacket
panelled corduroy dress

Soooo, the last week or so has seen the most delightfully sunny spring-y weather; lifting the spirits and catalysing intense wardrobe scrutiny and assessment.  Exciting stuff.  I’ve bravely gone bare-legged a couple of days!  I’ve restrained myself from wildly chucking out winter-y stuff willy nilly and am instead sensibly washing and storing winter-y things.  
And spring-cleaning.  I’ve washed curtains!  And quilts!  But apparently temperatures are cooling off again next week.  Rats.  I’m over winter.  Summer, bring it.  Please.  But I’m going to try not to mope … much! and instead make the most of wearing my army jacket while I still can … because I cannot believe how much I am loving wearing that thing.  I think it is my favourite thing in the wardrobe right now.  I’m almost sad summer is coming up when I won’t be able to wear it any more…. almost.  Not really, but.

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lining up opposing seams in an invisible zip

Here is my tip for aligning horizontal seams on either side of a zip…
after sewing in the left side of the zip, zip it up, fold the seam allowance in for the right side and line the seam up exactly with that on the left side.  Pin in place on the tape.

Unzip, then sew the right side tape of the invisible zip just for a very short section, maybe only couple of centimetres, just over the seam

Zip the zip up again and do a quick check from the right side to see that the seam still matches up with the other side… if the seam has shifted just a bit out of whack then you only have those few stitches to unpick and re-stitch.  Better than having to un-pick the whole length, huh?

When it’s all lined up nice and straight, finish stitching the remainder of the seam above and below….

Bammo!  No stress seam alignment!

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Wedgwood blue damask, reworked

With the fingers of spring tickling at the edges of our days, I’ve been renovating my wardrobe.  And came across this dress

Although the dress had a sorta sporty feel to it and I think my style is vaguely sorta sporty? maybe? whatever the heck is my style anyway…. seriously I have no idea!  anyhow, somehow the dress felt wrong on me.  I wore it a few times, gave it a shot, but no.
But you know I’m not one to let lovely fabric go to waste and this fabric had been a gift from Sam.  So I unpicked the panels, saving all those zips.  And managed to patch together enough fabric for a new little skirt.  Which is great because a few skirts were jettisoned in the clean-out so it is only fitting that some new skirts could come in, yes?  Just keeping the balance!  🙂
I used Vogue 1247 and lengthened it… surprise!  I know I have a few of these in my wardrobe already but what can I say? it’s just an absolute winner.  It’s so quick and easy to make, is exactly to my style tastes and you cn put it together with small bitsy pieces of fabric.  How many times have I made this pattern already?  I’m not sure, but lots.

Ok I’ve just counted.  Eight times I have made this pattern.  Eight.  That’s not even counting the two times I’ve spliced the pieces and made it up plain, without those distinctive waitress-y pockets.
Some of the beige double topstitched seaming of the original dress is still intact in the skirt, which is fine by me.  I like weird little quirks in my clothes, didn’t you know?

The pockets are lined with blue sprigged cotton, leftovers from my sew bossy dress in its pre-dyed colour, and the lining is the original pale latte coloured acetate lining of the dress, simply cut to the right length from the bottom and keeping the hemline intact.  Instead of sewing the darts in the lining I folded them in pleats instead, as is my wont.  This is not laziness, honest! the idea is that there is some wearing ease in pleats whereas as there is no wearing ease in sewn down darts.

Does this happen to you when snapping a picture of your sewing details?

I know you can’t see them in the photo… but I am totally wearing matching socks too.  Ha!  I love matching details, even those you can’t see!

Details:
Skirt; Vogue 1247 lined, blue damask, my review of this pattern here
Blouse; a mixture of different patterns, powder blue silk, details here
Socks; hand-knit by me to a 60’s pattern, details here
Boots; Enrico Antinori, from Zomp shoes

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Screen-printing: murky blocks

Well … screen-printing, whoar!  You guys.  I’m totally sucked in.  Somebody stop me!
So yesterday everyone was out except for me … but I had fabric.   I had a design and paint and I had a screen.  I had a big outdoor table, all to myself.
I hopped straight into it.
Luckily I had cooked a massive pot of soup in the morning because I was pooped by the end of the day!
So, this is a five colour design, with two sets of two and three quarters pattern repeats spread over two pieces of fabric.

The fabric is an ivory cotton from Homecraft Textiles.  It is quite tightly woven, crisp and stiff, but it’s not too bad with a quality like a coupla steps up from calico.
I started out by cutting a roughish dress outline, using my tried and true sheath dress pattern Burda 8511, I did this mostly to gauge out the size of the design, how it would look proportionally on a dress.

My design is one that is very forgiving to wonky alignment, even so I think my registration is improving; this time I spent a lot of time carefully measuring and marking key placement spots.  I tacked crosses at the border junctions of each repeat and marked the fabric with pins at the corner points for the screen for each repeat.  I was intentionally going for a more random appearance this time, so with each repeat I purposely moved the screen just a tiny bit this way and that way so the pattern would not be too obviously identical from one repeat to the next.
The colours: I’m such a scrooge and was really economical here! I started out with the palest colour and then continued adding to it to make the subsequent colours.  I only have a little bit of the last colour leftover so this approach really did make the most of my paint.

First colour, Mustard (yellow + teensiest touch of black):
I was totally in the zone and forgot to take a picture after the second colour! woops!
The second colour is Olive (the first colour mustard + teensiest touches of blue and black).  I had overestimated quantities here and made a lot of Olive, so divided this to make both the third and fourth colours….
Caramel (the 2nd colour olive + mid red)
Dark Olive (the 2nd colour olive + a touch more black)
lastly Chocolate (the remains of the caramel and dark olive mixed together)

The pattern repeat, although they each vary slightly:

Thoughts:
Far from perfect, but I’m pretty happy with it.  I like the late 60’s/early 70’s vibe it’s giving me.  These are my earliest years so I’m drawn to this time  🙂
Sometimes, my first print after a colour change is terrible and comes out scratchy no matter how carefully I try to flood the screen.  This happened twice during this project, and also happened with my poppy print.  Meaning that statistically speaking, I have a 50% chance of a good first print, subsequent prints seem to go on more easily, smoothly and cleanly.  So to save myself tears, in the future I’m going to have a sacrificial scrap piece of fabric sitting on the side for that pesky first print.
The colours were supposed to be more transparent; I added what seemed to be heaps of transparency medium to the darker colours! but they are just NOT all that transparent.  Disappointed!  Some of the overlaps have masked the underneath colour completely.  I’m going to check with my teacher a good transparency ratio, or maybe the future I should minimise overlapping of motifs.

So eventually this will be a dress, but not yet.  I’m a-pondering it for a while.

With a pensive silence and furrowed brow.

It’s funny how easily we can slice into shop-bought printed fabric without a second thought but when it is your very own precious print, cutting into it is terrifying!
For now I’m embarking on a couple of quickie wardrobe fixer-ups, plus now I’ve done this project at home I have to cut some more stencils before my next class… later, dudes! 🙂

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Poppies lingerie set

My first screen-printing effort obviously lent itself best to something comprised of smaller pieces that could be cut to avoid the more glaring imperfections in the print, ahem!  A set of lingerie sounded like a plan  🙂  My poppies print was pretty bad really, but it still felt precious to me just because I’m a silly sentimental thing.  There was extensive contemplation of, and moving around, the pattern pieces on the fabric before I braved snipping!  And bias placement is such a fabric hog.  I considered disobeying and naughtily cutting the undies on the grain but didn’t want to court disaster.  I cut the bigger undies pieces from my later, more successful print placements (at upper left of my fabric length) and cut the smaller bra pieces from the in between scraps and from my first, badly placed prints (at lower right) and mirror-matched as much as possible the print placement on front pieces and back pieces of the bra.

The bra pattern is KwikSew 3300 with modifications to account for using a woven fabric as opposed to a stretch knit (as described here)  This time I cut the back pieces to be 6cm longer at centre back, and narrower to fit the purchased hook and eye clasp.  This is my eighth time making this bra pattern up so obviously I love it!  It is one of the original designs of the late Kerstin Martensson, Swedish founder of KwikSew and a talented pattern maker.  The style is very much to my taste, which is why I chose it of course! and over time I’ve fine-tuned the fit by shaving off a little bit here and there,: so it fits me really well.

The bra lining pieces were cut from the white unprinted bits around the edge, and the bra underlining and undies liners from ivory jersey knit.  I chose black lingerie elastic to match the black centres of the poppies, and fortunately my Spotlight currently has lingerie rings andsliders both in white, so they match each other.  Woot!  I stocked up!!

The two pairs of matching knickers are based onThe Makers Journal Tried & True, the third and fourth times I’ve used it, and I’ve altered this pattern too to suit my personal tastes.  The first time I made it pretty much to pattern, the second and subsequent times I have made it to have a more substantial liner (as illustrated here), to be less high-rise, to scoop in at the front leg more, and to scoop out at the back leg more to give more bottom coverage.  These are small alterations but even 1cm makes quite a difference when you’re wearing them.  The closest I have made to the original pattern is the pair pictured on the far right in this post here.

Details:
Bra; KwikSew 3300 modified for woven fabric as specified here, screen-printed white cotton, my review of this pattern here
Matching undies; The Makers Journal Tried & True, modified, my review of this pattern here

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Screen-printing; a field of poppies

Hello!
I am doing a screen printing course!  I have tonnes of pretty patterns gleaned from Pinterest that I would loooove to print onto my own fabric, but I think my aspirations might be a tad more ambitious than my abilities, hehe.  Whatevs, it should be fun and I am finally making use of my screen, bought using a Jacksons gift voucher that was on the point of expiration.  Confession time; this purchase actually took place about seven years ago (eep!) and up until now the screen has been utterly and perfectly pristine and unsullied by anything so messy as actual fabric paint …  perish the thought!  Well, it has at last had its initiation ceremony  🙂
I decided to start with something simple; my first effort is a stylised field of poppies.  The screen print component is a imperfect grid of wonky red dots, like a really lovely Nano Iro pocho dots pattern that I saw for $50/m in a local shop which shall remain nameless.  Ah, the joys of living in Perth…. hey, I’m all for supporting local businesses and have got nothing against someone making a living, but a line has to be drawn somewhere.  $50/m is overstepping somewhat, no?!
I used a lightweight white cotton from Spotlight, and mixed a deepish but still quite intense red/orange, like the colour of a, well the colour of a poppy!  The break-down is about two thirds mid orange (which I would describe as garishly, in-your-face, “life jacket” orange), a third new mid red (which I would describe as “crimson”) and the tiniest touch of black.  I added about 10% transparency medium but I don’t think this quantity was enough to make any difference.  After it had dried I went over and manually added a black dot in the middle of each orange dot using a Sharpie laundry marker.
“Registering the print”, which is printer’s speak for lining up the screen so that repeat designs sit seamlessly alongside each other and you are not supposed to be able to tell where one stops and the next starts; is a heck of a lot harder than it appears… my nine prints are laughably misaligned.  I think though that since my design is random and intentionally wonky it can almost get away with having a less than perfect line-up.
This fabric to appear in sewn-together garment form very soon… stay tuned!

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