Tag Archives: Blouse

golden brown


hello!  I’ve made this new blouse…  I was having trouble thinking of a way to describe the colour, since the only thing coming to my mind was those white puffball fungi that upon “puffing” send forth a little cloud of smelly spores that are just about exactly this colour.  Then Craig came to the rescue, suggesting “golden brown”  Oh, yes, that is SO much nicer!  Why is my brain sooo….? um, weird and mundane and lacking in poetic nuance?!

 

Fabric; a silk crepe from Tessuti fabrics in Melbourne, bought during a previous years’ trip over there with Mum and Cassie.  I’ve had it marinating in the stash all this time, awaiting the perfect blouse pattern.  I think this was happily, and accidentally, IT!

obligatory back view… 


Pattern; the Sudley by Megan Nielsen patterns. Tim and Sam gave it to me for Christmas, after I had requested the Dove blouse pattern.  Did I mention already that the Dove is perpetually sold out?? yes I believe I did.  Clearly my boys encountered the same issue that I have had …. timing, it seems, is everything!!  However, the Sudle is a nice little pattern, very simple, and I think I will use it a lot too.

This is actually the second Sudley I have made.  I also made a dress that has now been assigned to Cassie when I realised it was just going to be a little too, er, young for me.  I expect it’ll show up on ye olde blog here sometime…

 

Alterations:  The Sudley is a very young-at-heart style whereas I am more of a hoary-old-beast-at-heart; so I made a few minor design alterations to “old” it up a bit.   I opted for the plain neckline, and jazzed up the plain sleeves by running a loop of skinny elastic through the sleeve hems to gather them softly up, and made a separate bias rouleau loop “bow” which is purely decorative and just sewn on to the hem with a few firm stitches through all layers.

I also cut the lower hemline to have a curved “shirttail” line to it.  The hems and the neckline are all finished by hand, because I really wanted to have a smooth clean stitch-free expanse of fabric with absolutely no visible topstitching anywhere.  This is about as invisible as I could get.

Oh; one thing I did, which I would recommend for this type of neckline; you stay-stitch all around the neckline and the keyhole opening, obviously to stabilise it, however! to further help keep the neckline straight and true I kept a little bridge of fabric intact at the top front edges of the keyhole where the ties were to be attached, and maintained it throughout most of the blouse’s construction, and only cut through it at the very last minute, when turning and hand-stitching the bias binding down on the inside.  I think this simple precaution really helped to keep everything true.

All seams throughout are French seams, except for the armscye seams which I just ran through the overlocker to finish.  Picking my battles here!  This silk, while absolutely divine and a dream to wear, was actually not much fun to sew!  However!  The puffball spore, I mean, lovely golden-brown is a perfect colour for autumnal me, also I think this style of blouse suits me and I’m going to enjoy wearing it a lot.  It’s going to go with TONNES of my other clothes.

    

Details:

Top; MN2004 the Sudley blouse by Megan Nielsen patterns with minor modifications, silk crepe
Skirt; Vogue 1247, ivory curtaining fabric, details here and my review of this pattern here
Shoes; made by me, my own design, details here

Skirt below; Vogue 8363, canvas, details here

Location: Eagle Bay, Western Australia

Wearing it out to dinner recently, with my “bookshelf” skirt.  I think they go together quite nicely!

And my clogs have received a much-needed makeover!  The ivory pleather part of the upper has got so worn and was starting to pull badly around where it was nailed to the soles…. I’d already fixed it once but finally acknowledged that if I wanted them to last a lifetime, and I think they can! then it was time for action.  One thing I’ve learnt about making my own shoes is that if something needs a little mending or attention then it REALLY pays to get onto it very quickly.  Mum had given me an ivory leather clutch years ago “for shoes” and it was juuuuuust big enough so I could cut out new pieces.  I used my punch that I bought in Copenhagen, and upholstery thread in ivory to sew up and down all around, and hammered on the new uppers.

Now they’re as good as new!! in fact; I reckon BETTER!

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white Issey Miyake shirt

Self-explanatory, really.  #endblogpost  😉
Pattern; Vogue 1384.  It’s a vintage pattern, hailing from 1984, sorry. Yeah, it’s annoying when people make things in vintage patterns that you can’t get a hold of anymore.  But I’m sure this is not particularly aspirational actually, it’s a little weird in that 80’s way.  That high, slightly floppy collar combined with a billowing pirate-y blousiness is giving me serious Duran Duran vibes.  That’s sort of a good thing btw HUGE Duran Duran fan, once upon a time… only you know, dating myself here  #woops  On a side note; watching that clip again, wow I think I’ve suddenly identified the genesis of my lifelong white shirt obsession…   Also, haha, I totally dance just exactly like that, to this day still, lol.

I’d actually vaguely planned to make this shirt for quite a while, then Anna of blogless Anna proposed an IG #sewjapaneseinjanuary sewing challenge; prompting a jump to the top of my queue… sewing challenges are such fun!

I’ve previously made the skirt from this pattern too; here.  That now resides in Cassie’s wardrobe.  Thing is; the pretty floaty pink-ness, while lovely, I’ve decided is just not really ME.  Not to mention that she put it on one day and obviously it looked only like about 999999 times better on her than it ever did me (sob)   I’ve got to stop giving her my clothes to try on!!   Just kidding; I wore it a few times but tired of it quite quickly and I don’t miss it, not one little bit.  Though I do still really like that design and am thinking of making it up again, just in a more me-friendly fabric and colour.

Fabric; a thin, sparsely-dotted swiss cotton voile with ever so faint and equally sparse paisley embroidery on it in bits.  Very very subtle.  I bought it in Potters Textiles a few years ago, when it was in its other location.

The top looks at its best when it’s either tucked in or belted-n-blousy, and while I have a small collection of self-made belts… like, four maybe?  none of them looked very right with this sheer-ish white top, so I quickly whipped up a thin white one in the same fabric to wear with it.  Kt-chaaaaaaa!! *whip-crack sound effect*  Sorry, I simply cannot read “whipped something up” with regards to sewing without hearing a crack o’ the whip sound in my head.  Craaa-aack that whip!  *  (Devo, and a warning, do not click that link unless you WANT to be subjected to some really random and classic 80’s, madness.  Yep, I was a fan of that too, *blush*)

The belt is basically just a waistband really.  A poor, bereft and lonely little waistband, with no skirt to call home…  *sad violins*  It’s exactly the same deal as the one I made for my tartan dress.  Just two buttonholes, and one button, and you wear it so the button is on the inside.

Also, interesting pocket tab/flap detail.  You can’t really see it on the outside, which defeats the purpose a bit really, but oh well.  It’s kinda cute when you notice it!

I flat-felled all seams throughout, as usual.  Btw, you CAN flat-fell all sleeve and armscye seams too… my tutorial for flat felling the armscye seam is here… and the sleeve seam itself can be flat felled by starting from the middle of the seam and stitching OUT.  Be sure to have the sleeve RIGHT SIDE OUT, so that you are sewing inside the sleeve… this will ensure that you are in no danger of stitching down the other side of the sleeve underneath…

In the case of this shirt; I stitched the sleeves to the shirt, and flat-felled that armscye seam before stitching up the sleeve and side seams…
First, stitch the sleeve and side seams in one fell swoop.  Press seam open and trim one side.  If you are flat-felling the seam towards the back of the garment, trim the back edge of the seam.

Press the front edge back over the back edge, turn under the raw edge, and press in a neat even width.

Turn sleeve RIGHT SIDE OUT  (v. important) and from the wrist end of the sleeve; bundle the tube of the sleeve up to locate a point roughly midway up the sleeve.  Position the bundled up sleeve tube behind your machine and pull the wrist end of the tube through until this midway point is under the needle.  Take it nice and slow, and stitch the flat-felled seam from here out to the wrist.

To complete the seam; just repeat the same process as above only bundling up the sleeve from the armscye side… locate that same midway point of the sleeve, and stitch the seam from there, to the underarm, and keep going in one long continuous seam down the side seams to the bottom hem of the shirt.

Done!

Details:

Blouse; Vogue 1384, white swiss voile
Skirt; Vogue 1247, striped stuff, details here and my original review of this pattern here
Sandals (above): my own design, made by me, all details here

   

Denim shoes (below); my own design, made by me, all details here
location at top: Preston St overpass, Como, Western Australia

Replicating the 80’s pattern envelope pose,  just because…. the 80’s.

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light as a cloud

floatytop1

stylish dress bookI’ve made a softly floaty blouse  🙂  of course just as summer is on the way out… o no, wait, actually summer is over! However we’re still getting days of 40C.  Not that I’m complaining, mind you.  I love the warmth!  Only thing is that I’m getting tired of all my summer things thus the decision to make a new summer thing, ha.  #seasonallyinappropriatesewingforthewin  It’s light and pretty and easily breezy; and delightfully cool.  I fully expect the weather to turn cold now.

floatytop3

Pattern; based upon dress R from the Stylish Dress Book, by Yoshiko Tsukiori.  I’ve always had luck with the patterns from this book.  But this time … well the pattern is for a short dress, and it’s quite pouffy too, and in this particular fabric it looked just like a nightie! eeeek! this fabric is far too lovely to be a nightie! So I gave it just a little chop and now it’s a top.   Much much better like this… I had also added some rather interesting gathered side pockets to the dress and managed to keep them perfectly intact.  I pinned this picture of a gathered pocket a while ago and have been itching to have a go at incorporating it into a design at some time… And I have! with an added drawstring.  I decided the drawstring was needed with this embroidered fabric, it felt kind of lacking without it.

gathered pocket

Fabric; a rather gorgeous fully embroidered Japanese silk/cotton, bought from the remnants table at Potters Textiles, years’ ago.  Probably about four years ago.   Fully embroidered with a floral motif, the background is very light and fine, quite sheer actually; so a full and voluminous design is just the ticket.  The yoke and bias cut ties on the pockets are ivory crepe from Fabulous Fabrics, cut from the leftovers of my studio faro dress.

floatytopback

Modifications; Shortened to be a blouse.  Also the front and back are supposed to be gathered into the yoke… I tend to steer clear of gathering.  Instead I folded the excess width into box pleats.  There are four at the front, evenly spaced and close to the centre front, and one in the centre of the back.  And I added those two gathered pockets at the sides.  I love the design of these; interesting and practical, and pretty too without being excessively twee, and they’re a little bit different from your average inseam pocket and patch pocket.  I think they add a certain visual “something” to the top that it needed.

I’m thinking of writing a tutorial to show how I made them…  coming soon  🙂

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stylish dress book DSC_2624burda7723-1

Details:

Blouse; based upon dress R from the Stylish Dress Book by Yoshiko Tsukiori, embroidered ivory silk/cotton
Shorts; Burda 7723, green cotton gingham, details here and my review of this pattern here
Thongs, made by me, details here

floatytop4

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