Tag Archives: Named Patterns

💜 borahae! *

Hello!  So, in the never-ending saga that is my making journey, blah blah blah; I want to try and make at least one thing per month for no reason other than it satisfies my creative desires.   This is kinda important since lately I actually seem to make a lot of things that don’t satisfy me creatively at all …   strange, huh?  anyway, it’s just something I want to make time for, for my own personal happiness.

It doesn’t have to necessarily be “useful” or practical either…  just something that I want to make, just because.  While also being entirely from the stash, the other important proviso of course!

Something that’s bothered me for a while is that I have practically zero purple clothing… and nothing purple in the stash either.  Also, today is the 10th anniversary of BTS debut, and being a reasonably recent fan (more on that later) I thought I could observe this milestone and fill the gaping purple hole in my wardrobe at the same time.

I had some cherry red cotton corduroy, originally from Mum’s stash… and I also have plenty of old jeans.  I think these ones were also Mum’s actually!  Thanks, Mum!

Plans were made, patterns were perused, discarded, dyes checked out.  I worked out I could cut out the Named Maisa jean jacket from my corduroy, and also get a little matching skirt out if I cut some of the pieces from the old jeans.  To make everything purple, I would dye the cherry red corduroy with navy blue dye, and the blue jeans would get a red dye bath,  This may or may not have been a disastrous adventure, but you know me, nothing ventured, nothing gained.  I was so excited to see how it was going to go!

Stuff cut out.  Here are the bits and bobs.  The leftovers (middle right) are, I’m proud to boast; practically nothing.  I did save some of them for another little project, yet to be realised…

I made up the body part of the Maisa jean jacket first, and overlocked the edges of the other red jacket bits, for dyeing.

I cut out a few extra pockets… I wasn’t sure where these would go exactly but I just cut and dyed them anyway, thinking I’d find the right spot for them eventually.

The second stage was to make the skirt.  The design is my own, that I’m planning to make into a pattern for mine and Cassie’s tiny little company this year, if possible!  It has deep pockets, and no zip, instead closing over a hip pocket.  I made this completely including lining, before dyeing it as a whole in the same dye bath as the jean jacket body, just with a little bit of extra blue added.  I used a green lining fabric  (why not, ’twas in the stash) and some leftover pink linen from my Lennox dress to line the waistband.  This is how they turned out after the dye job.  I’m really happy with how (to my mind) gorgeous the colours look together!

Last step was to construct the jacket sleeves and collar, and dye these and the rescued jeans pockets in a red dye bath.  I’d added a tiny bit of blue to this bath too, on a hunch; and am quite happy with the level of purple achieved.  Then I finished the jacket construction.   The two extra corduroy pockets got stitched onto the denim sleeves of the jacket, and the rescued denim jeans pockets got stitched to the body of the jacket.  Of course I’m thrilled to have some useful pockets on the jacket!

Some details:  I used copper jeans buttons, these were the only things bought new for the project.  For the most part, I used black thread or a dark khaki thread for the skirt lining and some other parts; and navy blue overlocking thread throughout.  For the skirt; I had two purple buttons already in my stash, which was handy.

Final verdict; well of course all that strong red turned out more raspberry than purple; though the jacket sleeves are decidedly purple.  I still love it though! and am very excited to wear it a lot during winter.  Although I “wanted” purple; raspberry is of course one of my favourite colours; so how could I not be happy?!

* “borahae” actually kinda translates to “I purple you”, and is a BTS thing…  So I’ve been a low-key fan for a few years, but it wasn’t until I started making wedding dresses and spending a lot of time listening to youtube videos and bingeing on BTS Run while I hand stitched tiny lace motifs onto silk and tulle bodices that I really got into them a lot more.  Then during the making of Lainey’s wedding dress, I finally finished viewing the entirety of BTS Run and of course anyone who has watched the show knows you cannot help but eventually became hopelessly addicted!  Aaah!  I’m not going to say any more, because it’s a little bit embarrassing, at my age!  but anyway there it is.  I’ve said it now!   💜

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creamy broderie anglaise…

Oh, hey, I made a dress!  and not just any old dress but this the final thing in my little mini make-nine challenge which of course was actually make-twelve!  So happy I managed to squeak it in for the end of the year!  Phew!

This is sorta based on the Named Inari tee dress pattern, and the fabric is a heavy clotted cream coloured, broderie anglaise cotton that I bought in Mood when I visited New York with Yoshimi on our holiday there last year.  GORGEOUS fabric.  I feel like I’m wearing a wedding cake, in a good way!

I’m so thrilled with how my dress turned out… in the end!  It has a few features that I shall now proceed to explain…

a. the shoulders have a sort of raglan effect, but still with the set in sleeves.  There is a reason for this that I shall delve into further, later… ahem…

b. I utilised the broderie edging as much as possible, in the sleeve edges, the hem edge at the bottom, and to form the upper edge of the patch pockets.  Love how this turned out!

c.  To get the best effect of the broderie “stripes” I did not make the inari with its traditional stepped hem . ie. longer at the back and shorter at the front; because I wanted the broderie edge to finish the entire hem, and also wanted the broderie pattern to match along those side(-ish) seams.

Btw, to digress for a bit… when it comes to pattern/stripe matching, I admit to being a fiend for this in the past, however lately I’ve felt a little ambivalent towards the rabid mania for extreme pattern matching that seems de rigeur for the sewing world.  Sure, there are definitely times when strict pattern matching is necessary, but I’m starting to crave the artistic possibilities that come with a less rigid approach.  For example, when a patch pocket is so excellently pattern matched that you can’t even see it’s there.  WHY?!  Sometimes I just find myself wishing for something a bit more exciting.

That’s not relevant to this, my latest thing though, because I decided a good pattern match was indeed essential to the dress looking good, so I went there.  There is no pocket matching whatsoever with the pockets and I like this look a lot.

Now to be real here; my initial “make 12” plan actually included a different pattern Vogue 8968, and I really did make this fabric up in that pattern too.  And it looked … absolutely terrible.  Behold the awfulness.

Yeah, it looks kind of ok on my dummy but on me it looked pretty bad, like a big broderie anglaise circus tent.  No modelled pictures because twas only “finished” for a minute or so before I starting cutting it up anew to make this.  To be honest, when I first did my make 12 plan I did not plan very thoroughly, and just chose 12 patterns and 12 fabrics with the thought I was just going to jam them together and make it work somehow, and unfortunately the last pattern and fabric were not a good match for each other after all.  I absolutely love this beautiful fabric though, so I’m very happy to have “saved” it!

see that little patch of bias-cut cream muslin sitting behind my label?  I had to put it there because without it you could see the red back of the label through this very lightweight fabric!

As it is, it’s absolutely essential to wear a slip with the dress.  I’m wearing it here with my ivory slip dress, the pattern is the free Ruby pattern by the very generous Sheryll of pattern scissors cloth, available here…

Oh, so the change of pattern is kinda the explanation for the funny, half raglan, half set in sleeve look.  True, Vogue 8968 doesn’t have raglan sleeve, haha; but bear with me.  I decided a raglan sleeve would look better than the big cut on, non-sleeve of the pattern.  Does it sound like I took a bit of a dislike to V8968? hmmm I think so, yes.  Anyway, I changed it to a  raglan sleeve.  Then when cutting out the Inari, I ended up keeping the perfectly finished bias-bound neckline of the original dress along with the raglan seams, and still cut out the armholes for the Inari too.  The Vogue dress was so big I was able to cut out my amended inari sleeves from the original sleeves too.  I got the patch pockets from the extra hem length cut off the sides.  So that was a bonus!

Of course, in peak 2020 style I made a little matching mask.  We’re not yet wearing them over here in Western Australia because of zero community spread, but who knows what the future holds?  I’m slowly building up a small collection of masks to have ready, just in case.

So that’s it for my little mini “make nine” challenge for this year!  Yay, I did it!

The thing is that I say “mini” challenge but it turned out to actually be a bit of a bigger challenge for me  than I thought, for some reason.  I can’t quite put my finger on it, but I think it’s something to do with the fact that spontaneity and the whim of the moment are important motivators for me when it comes to making things.  And when the spontaneity and whimsy are not there then I actually find it … well, not quite a “chore”  but something quite close to that anyway.  Terrible, huh.  Truthfully though, in spite of making it sound like (back-hand to brow) oh how I struggled! … I did not, because I love sewing and I really love all the things I made during the challenge.  However I don’t know if I will do a make nine again next year or not.  Maybe I’ll think of a new challenge… hmmm….I’ll have to give it some serious thought, because I only have one day to decide!

Details:

Dress, sorta Inari tee dress pattern by Named patterns, cream cotton broderie anglaise from Mood fabrics in New York
Mask, from this tutorial
Shoes; ancient, from an op shop

 is this thing even working?!  *camera click* 

 

 

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Tjilkamala Rockhole

I’ve made up the first of my indigenous fabrics that I bought back in … June? I think, and I posted about it here… 

this stunning print is Tjilkamala Rockhole, designed by Alice Nampitjinpa; it was produced by Ikuntji Artists and I bought it through FlyingFox Fabrics

I decided upon a simple little dress with matching hat ensemble, inspired by this Marimekko outfit I’d seen many years ago…  btw I had to search and search and search to find this image!!  Note to self; always “pin” your favourite pictures!

I picked one of my favourite “simple” little shift dress patterns, the Named Inari tee dress, and Vogue 8844 for my matching hat.  These are both patterns I’ve used many times before, and I love them both.  I did my usual modification for the Inari dress by putting inseam pockets into those elegantly swooping side seams.  Oh, and I also widened the sleeve at the hem edge with a big big wedge insertion, as described here.  This adjustment enables you to lift your arms over your head without the dress riding up so much as to expose your knickers underneath.  Truth!  It does make quite a difference to the wearability of this dress, particularly in a non-stretch fabric.

For the neckline facings, I used a deep chocolate brown cotton voile, bought originally from Fabulous Fabrics.  I also cut the artist’s name and that of the print from the selvedge, and stitched them to the back facing.  I like doing this for special fabrics, and this is surely a very special fabric!

I did a search to find out which way up the print was supposed to go.  To the best of my knowledge, this is correct  🙂

I’ve made the Inari so many times before I don’t have much else to add … oh, except I did do something a bit different with the hem!

wait; what’s this?  WHERE’S THE HEM?!!

 

So the hemline for the Inari has side splits and a high/low hemline, so you can see the underside of the fabric quite clearly when you’re wearing the dress, especially when sitting down… and the wrong side of this fabric is the solid, deep chocolate brown that is the background of the print.  I decided I didn’t like the idea of seeing the print of the hem visible inside the dress and only wanted to see plain chocolate brown fabric.

 

So; to “camouflage” those hems I cut wide bias cut strips of same chocolate brown voile that I used  for the neckline facings and attached these along the fold line for the hem.  I then folded the top edge over and inside the raw edge of the hem, to hide the print and machine stitched close to the edge.  Finally, I hand stitched the hem to the dress as normal.  So yes, the full 3cm hem of the dress is there, and essentially the chocolate brown voile is acting like a “mask” over the top of it, hiding the print.  The side splits were also “masked” under bias cut strips in the same way.

All side splits and hems were hand-stitched, so as to avoid any visible stitching on the outside of the garment that would besmirch the purity of that beautiful print.

The hat: I LOVE the hat! even though if I’m realistic I know I’m probably going to get more wear out of the dress, but I still love it!  Serendipitous thing; when I dug out the pattern, I found to my great joy that past me had cut an extra brim interfacing, once upon a time. It was neatly folded up in with the pattern pieces.   I’d completely forgotten about it, but I guess the last time I’d made the pattern I must have thought I needed two.  Yay, past me!  Making the hat is simple enough… you can read my review of this terrific pattern here…  I used the same chocolate brown cotton to line it as for the inner bits of the dress.  I did put my own label in the hat!  I also put in a hanging ribbon in under the grosgrain ribbon just a small scrap from my sewing basket.  A hanging loop is not part of the pattern, and not an essential thing either, but it’s also something I think comes in very handy when you do have one in the hat.  I’m really glad of the one in my khaki hat and many times I’ve thought about putting one in my white hat.  I think I’m just going to get on and do that right now…

I bought the chocolate brown grosgrain ribbon from Spotlight.  You can see here a patched bit in the brim lining… I didn’t do this because I didn’t have enough fabric, I have plenty!  I actually have enough leftover for a little skirt sometime down the track too, but only if I was a bit devious with my cutting out here.  I decided a small patch in the brim lining was a small sacrifice to pay to leave myself enough fabric for that future skirt!

my labels are from the Dutch Label Shop

So, obviously I’m pretty happy with my new ensemble!!  It feels super special. I love how it’s such a visually exciting and eye-catching print, but most of all I love how it’s also so completely Australian.  It’s just beautiful.  I am particularly happy and thrilled to have found places to buy indigenous fabrics, to be able to support indigenous artists, and of course I am most certainly going to purchase more in the future, once I’ve finished making up the other print I bought in June.  I already have my eye on a few more!

  

Details:

Dress; the Inari tee dress, pattern by Named, in Tjilkamala Rockhole print cotton, designed by Alice Nampitjinpa
Hat; Vogue 8844, in Tjilkamala Rockhole print cotton, designed by Alice Nampitjinpa
Sandshoes; Trenery

location; Winjee Sam, Yallingup

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Christmas pressies; a sewing marathon

Tim and Kelly…

As usual, I made Christmas presents for my family… I started late October, so I was giving myself plenty of time, or so you’d think!  I’m a fairly efficient seamster, and I still only just finished a few days before Christmas!  it’s been a little intense and stressful, actually; every year I underestimate how busy the lead-up to Christmas is and how I just don’t get as much time to devote to sewing presents as I thought.  Plus, I’m a lot more finicky and particular – maybe excessively so?! about my sewing now too.  I think this is a good thing, but I have to accept that I’m taking longer to make things, and should start sooner!  Or maybe make less?

Anyway, it got done!  *phew

Listing everyting in the order I made it…

First thing to get made was a shirt for Tim… He has a job now where he has to look smart, so I decided to make a business shirt… I bought the really lovely deep maroon, mini-scale gingham cotton shirting from Tessuti’s in Melbourne, and used Burda 6874, my kinda go-to shirt pattern since I semi-retired Burda 7767.  d’you know I made that pattern 37 times… can you believe it?!  that tissue paper was wearing pretty thin in some places and in some other places I’d trimmed off the cutting lines altogether, woopsies!!

what sleeve placket…? of course I busted a gut matching those teeny little checks everywhere, took me two days before I could see straight again…

I made the buttondown version… see how the collar up there buttons down onto the shirt?  This is what qualifies it as a buttondown, folks!  I don’t wanna get all grumpy and pedantic here, being Christmas and all, but the number of times I’m reading about someone’s very lovely, but NOT A BUTTONDOWN shirt erroneously labeled as such and have to hold myself back, because we all hate a little lecture, right? I’m gonna stop right now otherwise I’m going to become that painful lecture-r.

this is the inside of the shirt… I’m pretty proud of my flat-felled seams… and I use the burrito method for the yoke so that’s all nicely enclosed too

All seams are flat-felled, using my own tutorials here and also this one here… yes you can flat-fell every single seam in a shirt! and it’s so much better and nicer… although I’m starting to realise that this is probably why what used to take me maybe two days to make a shirt…  now takes me double that time at the least! but anyway.  My guys appreciate the tailoring, so I’m happy that they’re happy.

Sam’s shirt…

I’m just SUPER happy with how my buttondown collars are looking nowadays!  It’s pretty hard to get that sitting just right and perfectly symmetrical; and I think after all the shirts I’ve made I’ve finally got it down…

Next up; I made a matching top for Kelly.  I’ve previously made matching tops for the two of them and noticed that they wear them together a lot! yes, it’s super cute…  I did a little bit of subtle inquiring as to whether matching clothes were still something they liked before I went there and got a positive response.  Alright then!

I had to be far less subtle about fitting it though!  I’d previously taken Kelly’s measurements for when I made a Kelly anorak for her… it’s impossible to do this without it being obvious! and made a block for her, using my Pattern Magic book to help me.  Yes, this is a pretty involved thing to do, requiring protractors and algebra and such-like! but honestly I’ve always found it to be a hugely worthwhile exercise when drafting new patterns.  Then I mocked up a quick plain bodice, and got her to try it on, and made the necessary changes.  In Kelly’s case, the block fitted but the armhole/bust dart had to modified considerably… the famous full-bust adjustment.  I regret now that I didn’t take any pictures of the mock-up bodice and the changes I made because it was a new learning curve for me that I wish I’d documented!

For Kelly’s top, I’d chosen the asymmetrical cowl top from Pattern Magic 2; the shape of the cowl is dictated by the shape of the facing.  It’s always a bit of a challenge to draft your own patterns, but well I love a challenge! and I knew the shape of this top would be super flattering for Kelly and suit her beautifully…  I cut the pieces on the bias and inserted a maroon invisible zip in the left side seam, so it zips down undone… however Kelly says she can squeeze into it without having to undo the zip which is cool.  I think the bias-cut is what gives it that little bit of stretch.

Next up! a business shirt for Sam! He has also started a new job which requires business dress everyday… I’d noticed a lot of young men wearing gingham shirts while we were in Melbourne… a good sign that gingham is super on-trend! so hot right now! which is basically why I bought gingham for both my boys in the first place.  It’s a bugger to pattern match though, even worse than stripes! gnnnnnnn  but oh well…

Again I used Burda 6874, flat felled seams throughout, same links as for Tim’s above… aaaaand so not much else to add.  Both Sam and Tim have been working out some lately, so I think I’m going to have to make some small adjustments to their shirts in the future.

Next up!  I made some little things for Cassie, she needs more work clothes so this was another practical gift really.  I made three things for her…. I just want to say here; it might seem unfair that I made one top plus TWO skirts for her, when compared to just one shirt for each of the boys, but it really does even out because the TIME I spent making these three little separates is actually the same as the time I spent on EACH of the boys’  shirts.  I know, crazy right?!  it’s all that tailoring bizzo that takes so much time…

Likewise, Kelly’s top needing a block made, plus the fitting muslin, plus drafting a pattern, also took about the same amount of time as making three tried and true things for Cassie!

Anyway; Cassie had already chosen this lovely crackle-y hand-painted cotton from the Fabric store in Melbourne while we were there, and I secretly bought the mustard gingham printed silk from Tessuti’s while she was looking elsewhere.  So the little top was a surprise!  The crackle print really is gorgeous, it is hand painted in Zambia and has that handmade naturalness to it…  LOVE this but pattern matching those hand-painted stripes was never going to happen!  of course they are all different widths and thicknesses which just adds to the charm of course.  I just shut down my inner-obsessive for a little while and did my best… at least I got the centre back seam to match!

The other little skirt is a cityscape print, maybe New York City by the looks of that Lady Liberty in there!  We’d seen the fabric in the upholstery section of Spotlight, so she’d known this one was coming too…

for both skirts I bound the lower hem seams using some leftover purple pin-striped linen, the leftovers from when I made this shirt for Craig a few Christmas’s ago.

I have also taken to binding the bottom edge of the zip and stitching it down to the seam allowances… often the bottom edge of a zip has a slightly scratchy bit which can be extreeeeeemely irritating when you’re wearing it… so I’ve taken to doing this whenever I made an unlined skirt with an invisible zip.  Such a small thing that greatly increases the comfort factor when wearing the skirt!!!

  

Oh! patterns!  I used the Inari tee pattern for the little top and Vogue 8363 for both of the skirts, and since I’ve made both of these patterns for her several times already they were super quick and easy to run up. For both skirts I added belt loops so she can cinch in the waistline a bit; in self-fabric for the Zambia striped one, and in black denim for the cityscape one.

Next up! a short-sleeved white shirt for Craig! also using Burda 6874 and a white cotton broadcloth from Spotlight, this was intended originally to be the same as this little shirt that I made for him a few years ago and which happens to be his most worn shirt … then just before making this I’d whipped up my little yellow/black&white lingerie set and had the gingham ribbon sitting out, and suddenly had this brainwave as to how I could use a bit more of it! I stitched the gingham ribbon carefully down the button line of the button placket, and used a little bit to trim the pocket.

To match this gingham detail, I lined both the collar and collar stand with some cotton gingham that I’ve had for aaaaages, and used black buttons to finish the shirt.  Note; IT’S A BUTTONDOWN SHIRT!  Also, of course it’s nowhere near a clone of the other white shirt any more but I still think he’ll wear it a lot…

Next up! a pullover/sweatshirt for Craig!  truth now… I was running out of time, and steam! and this fair near killed me!

Craig with a much much smaller Sam and Tim…

So, once upon a time, nearly twenty years ago, we went on a summertime camping trip down south and it was blooming’ freezing, our tent nearly blew away, we got rained on, hailed on and fair near froze to death!  In pure survival mode, Craig drove to the nearest town bought a red sweatshirt that he has since LOVED and worn about a million times, almost to bits since it’s getting reeeeeeally worn and threadbare now.  At some point he asked me to make a clone of the famous sweatshirt…

Of course it’s easy to clone a sweatshirt, but the challenge is in finding suitable fabric! I found this blue marled French terry in Spotlight, and while the colour is a teeny bit blah and the texture is not as nice as his original sweatshirt, it’s going to make a reasonable stop-gap until winter rolls around, the winter fabrics come into the shops, and hopefully I can find something nicer.  I busted a gut finishing off all the seam allowances off beautifully inside though… imitating the exceptionally beautiful finishes that were in the original.  For the pockets and bias binding I used some of the leftover navy/white gingham that I used for Sam’s shirt, above.  The pockets are French-seamed and the rest of the seams have an interesting amalgamation of HongKong bound AND flat-felled seams… not sure if my method is the same as in the original but I worked out a way to do it and took a few pictures along the way.

First, stitch the seams, then figure out which way you want the seams to be stitched down and apply bias binding to the topside of the seam allowance… ie. to stitch along the same stitching as previously you will be pinning/stitching along the UNDERNEATH,

OR alternatively you can save yourself a step here and stitch the bias binding on at the same time as you’re stitching the seam; your choice.

Press the garment seam allowances open, then press them to the side where they will be felled, with the bias binding on top.  From the other, right side, of the garment, pin through all layers.

With the right side facing up, topstitch the garment to the seam allowances plus binding, through all layers, just to the side of the garment seam…

view on the inside…

Keeping the bias binding free and clean, trim and grade the garment seam allowances…

Turn under and press the raw edge of the bias binding down so as to encase the seam allowances of the garment, pin in place.

With the bias binding facing up, and following the previous stitching as a stitching guide, topstitch the pressed edge of the bias binding down.  Since you’re using the previous stitching as a guide, the width of your double-topstitching will be nice and even from the outside.

Voila!  Such a nice neat finish!  at first I thought it might be overkill, but it is rather classy, if I say so myself; looks pretty good both inside and outside.  I will definitely be using this one again!

As seen above, I also applied bias binding all around the zip tape and stitched it down with double top-stitching the same way to match… this really does make a nice, neatly finished look when the zip is down.  Which it will be, most of the time.

And, last but not least!  I also made a few more little hardback notebooks… just fun little things, however I do know that the recipients do actually use notebooks regularly so I know they will be useful too!  I used mostly a mixture of leftover and old papers; from old scrapbooks, some with the children’s scribbles still on them!  I’m sentimental that way  😉 , various papers, musical paper, some pale coloured wrapping paper, writing stationery; just lots of different stuff.

The notebooks are covered variously with linen, velvet, printed cotton.  The one I made for Mum is covered with raw silk hessian.

So! Yes, it was quite a lot of stuff to make and I was working on it all like billy-o from touching down after Melbourne right up until I finished right on the wire only two days before Christmas…  I’ve been thinking about this… why am I taking longer to achieve less nowadays?  and I think it’s because I used to be happy and content with a slightly more unfinished approach… slapdash is maybe too strong a word? whereas now I am far more, possibly excessively? finicky and particular about perfect finishes on the insides.  I think I’m ok with this…  I feel like well-finished clothing is what I’m into right now.

However, to avoid the Christmas stress maybe I need to start making Christmas presents a LOT sooner!  Each year I start way ahead of time and think by doing so will relieve the stress, each year I get super stressed out and have at least one “I CANNOT DO THIIIIIIS!!” moment.  But I did.  And now for a break from deadlines!!

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not another striped tee

New Inari tee, sort of.

I bought this striped fabric from Fabulous Fabrics at the same time that I bought the striped fabric for my zebra striped skirt… that I made nearly two years ago… oops!  I was going to make a matched set.. but I got distracted, as you do and just never made the top.  I have now, obviously.  Finally.

dressing to match your puppy. it’s a thing, ok?

Not sure if the skirt and top look too… er, costume-y together??  Is it just me or are stripes feeling just a shade on the side of… last year?  Not that I don’t like stripes or anything… I DO! we’ve all bought into the stripe-hype that stripes are a neutral and go with EVERYTHING for years now… but everything runs its course.  Not to mention, and speaking  as a seamster, they’re an absolute pain in the bottom to sew.  Crazily; I bought enough of this striped fabric to make a Named patterns Inari tee dress for Cassie, but I don’t think I have the intestinal fortitude to face two entire dress-lengthed striped side seams right now.  I need time to recover.

failing to match my puppy

Modifications: I redid those blasted striped side seams several times… but I think it was worth it in the end.  Behold, attempt number one.  The stripes are all matched perfectly fine, but the V-ness they make as the side seam tapers outwards looks kinda weird.

so I unpicked those perfectly matched stripes, sobbing only just a little bit, re-pinned and restitched.  Hallelujah for the cropped-ness of the Inari!! shorter side seam, naturally; phew.  Now, my side seams still taper outwards some in the spirit of the Inari, but the angle is more subtle, and I just think the way the stripes are now is visually a lot more pleasing to the eye.

My other alteration was my now usual one to widen each of the sleeve hemline and the cuff by a good 10cm (4″) using this method described here.

ON another note; I actually made everything I am wearing in all these pictures, including my shoes… not something that happens all the time now my Year of Handmade is over, but just every now and again  🙂

    

Details: (above, with striped skirt)

Top; modified Inari tee by Named patterns, with modifications, slightly spongy striped knit
Striped skirt (above): Vogue 1247, striped woven, details here
Denim shoes (above); made by me, details here;  these are getting pretty old now, which is making me sad  🙁

Details: (top picture, with floral skirt)

Floral skirt: Vogue 2894, floral cotton lined with purple
Black clogs; made by me, details here

So that’s it!  I decided to wear it with my red floral skirt, for its maiden voyage into the city today to meet my friend J for lunch… the stripes/floral combo still feels fresh and springy to me and I really love it.  Cassie came around later in the evening, coincidentally wearing her little cottages Inari tee that I’d made for her! and mentioned that she really loved this outfit.  Oooh, praise from a daughter; that’s high praise!!

location: Elizabeth Quay, Perth

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named maisa denim jean jacket

O hey!

What am I doing? not much, just hanging around in my new jean jacket that until very recently was actually a few pairs of ancient old jeans!!!  OHYEAH!

A jeans-to-jean-jacket project has been a long-term “thing” in my little bucket list of refashions that I have in my head. and one of the reasons I’ve been collecting my children’s old jeans for only like, forever… recently I was asked to speak at the 20th anniversary celebrations of Australian Sewing Guild, a huge honour! and in the general chit-chat heard mention of their Castaway to Couture competition… where you take some cruddy cast-off clothing and transform it into something new and spectacular of course; obviously my ears pricked up … I LOVE wardrobe refashioning!!  I really the challenge and the FUN of repurposing old unwanted fabrics into something new, and I love the good self-backpatty feeling you get from being economical and not wasteful, in both the money sense as well as in the planetary resources sense as well.  I’ve done quite a lot of it in my time but not for a while… I mentioned my intention to participate in the comp on IG back on the 2nd May, and knew straight away I would finally get on with my “bucket list” jeans-to-jacket. The only things I bought for this were the buttons!

before…

after…

I used the Named patterns Maisa denim jacket pattern, and three pairs of my children’s old jeans, above.  Actually, technically I used only two and a half pairs of jeans, which I feel pretty good about!  I picked out the most similarly coloured ones, for a cohesive look, and the widest legged one in my stash; pretty sure these were all Tim’s, he used to rock the wide legged style A LOT!  I needed the wide legs so I could cut out the widest pattern pieces such as those upper sleeves.  A few pieces, like the hem bands, the collar, and the back yoke were too wide, so I had to cut these laying up and down the leg.. i.e. cutting across the grain, rather than on grain.

While I lurve a patchy aesthetic to my clothing, and of course the beauty of a thing like a jean jacket is that it’s supposed to look a bit beat up and NOT a work of beautifully tailored perfection…  I still wanted it to look at least a little bit intentional and not too bunged together.  There was plenty of colour variation even within each single pair of jeans as well as fashionable distressing effects everywhere too, so I carefully cut so as to make sure the colour variations were matched symmetrically all over the jacket, for example; the upper arms are cut from the same area of one pair, the side fronts also both from the same area of another pair, ditto the two side backs, etc etc, so as much as I possibly could the lighter blue areas are balanced out nicely and symmetrically with the darker blue areas on the jacket.

I think this resulted in a fairly cohesive look, one that hopefully doesn’t scream “MADE FROM CRUDDY OLD JEANS” anyway.

I only kept ONE thing that even vaguely hints that this is a recycled product;  for one of the cuff facings I unpicked a rear pocket from one pair of jeans and cut the facing for a cuff from this area…  it’s just facing, so it’s on the inside and can’t be seen unless I roll up the cuffs.  But I like that it’s secretly tucked away in there  🙂

For near total re-cycling, I even re-used the pocket lining of one of the pair of jeans for the new pocket lining of my jacket! well, it was a rather nice blue plaid and after unpicking the coin pocket there was just enough for my own new pockets.

Oh, yes, pockets!  The Maisa doesn’t come with pockets like this; it does have two breast pockets but funnily enough I really prefer pockets that you can actually put things in and also take them out easily… so I decided to see if I could wrangle some hip pockets in there somehow.  And I did!

I made two little welt pockets situated in the front/side front seams.  On the inside, the bottoms of the pockets are sandwiched inside the button bands, for a neat look on the inside.  They do work… however they’re not perfect by any means! because they do happen to have a button and a buttonhole respectively at the bottom edge of each one! hmmm, yes well… that was unavoidable.  Maybe, just maybe a bit of a hacking fail, however I’m really really glad still that I’ve got them.  I knew it was a risk since the cutting lines in the front of the jacket are very close to the centre front, and a pocket like this would work better if the seams were situated further out towards the side seams OR if the front closed with an open ended zip instead.  Both criteria would have given a better result…  BUT well, we live and learn…  at the very least I can put a little bit of stuff in them, so not a complete and utter fail! I’m ok with them, and they do work!  🙂

Thoughts on the pattern: description says a classic, unlined, button-down denim jacket with collar; short and loose-fitting design with flap pockets at the front; sleeve vents and wide button cuffs, wide band at the hem.  Well, hmmm, I’m not going to start ranting about my pet hate; the incorrect use of the term “button-down”.  Noooo, I’m not.  Apart from that! everything else about the pattern is pretty awesome.  A slight negative; it is a bit more loose-fitting than I anticipated.  Not 80’s loose, but still pretty loose.  I’m ok with it really… I will certainly wear it anyway! it’s so comfy and feels absolutely fantastic on! plus I’m only wearing it over a thin little Tshirt here and of course a bit of oversizedness is a good thing when I’ll want to wear it over cardigans or long-sleeved woolly tops in the winter.  I think when I get a little time I might have a go at re-jigging the pattern to be a little more form-fitting, for the future.  I still have plenty of pairs of jeans that need refashioning, so a second, differently styled jean jacket might even happen.  One which even has bigger and better functioning hip pockets!

Design decisions:  all the raw edges are finished with overlocking in dark blue thread, and I double top-stitched all seam allowances down with two different colours of thread; a coppery brown, and a creamy ivory.  These are both Gutermann upholstery thread, I actually prefer this to topstitching thread because A) it is tougher and B) it is less prone to fraying, so is easier to thread a needle with it.  I’ve used it for all my previous jeans, as well as for all my Alabama Chanin projects too, of course.  I decided to go with the two different colours, because it’s a detail I’ve noticed in some rtw jeans that I like a lot.

For the breast pockets: I originally double topstitched these in the two differently coloured threads too, however it just didn’t look very nice.  To be honest, something about the curved edge; cup-shaped pocket shapes topstitched onto the front just suggested “topstitched boobs”, to me.  Maybe that’s just me being weird… but I couldn’t stand it and unpicked the ivory and restitched the second line in the same copper brown as the first, as above.  It’s less obtrusive now and I think looks better.  Sorry, if that all sounds super weird, but just saying….

Some purely gratuitous details shots…

cuff topstitching and bar tack…

collar …

topstitching …

breast pocket…

waistband…

Details:

Jacket; Named patterns Maisa jacket, made from old pairs of jeans
Skirt; Vogue 1247, details here
Tshirt; Closet Case patterns Nettie bodysuit, white jersey, details here
Shoes; made by me and my own design, details here

  

location: the sundial at Cottesloe beach, Western Australia

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rows of little white cottages

I’ve made another skirt and top set for Cassie  :

  

Patterns; the Tshirt is the Named patterns Inari tee, and the skirt is Vogue 1170.  I’ve made several of these skirts now, and quite a few are now owned by Cassie.  The only alteration I made was to lengthen it by about 5cm, and leave off the pockets.  Oh, I also made a few fitting alterations… even though I’ve made the pattern several times and I really like it; however the fit is actually not very good.  Fortunately though it’s an easy fix, taking in each of the side/back seams… my alterations to the skirt seams are pictured with my original review of the pattern here, and basically I have to make very similar alterations for Cassie

Fabrics; both from Spotlight..  I spotted this cute cotton jersey with its wonky rows of houses during Christmas shopping, and while I’d already bought her Christmas fabrics I just couldn’t resist! Cheerful, cherry red background, and those cute little white cottages with pink and teal rooves! And by the way, what’s with me and pink and teal this year??  I’ve made four things so far this year and they have all been deep blue and/or pink.  Weird!  Anyway, the print is cute and young and fun and just right for her colouring, all round just perfect … and I knew she has lots of skirts and jeans that would be perfect with it…
Then I vaguely thought maybe a navy  blue skirt would make it a nicely complete set, and she desperately needs skirts for work too … and lo and behold what should be lounging languidly about in the very next aisle but this teal blue suedette, which is a PERFECT colour match for the rooves.  BAM!  DECISION MADE.  Lugged them both to the counter without a second thought, brought them home, tossed into the washing machine.

About this time, I saw that happylat had also made a Tshirt from this very same fabric. What can I say, but great minds think alike!

I lined the waistband with some of the house fabric… not because I had run out of suedette or anything, but I just thought it was cute and I wanted to tie the two pieces together!

this is on grain, I promise!! the print is just naturally, and charmingly wonky

The suedette “looks” nice and perfectly suede-y, but it frays like billy-o.  I finished all the raw edges on the overlocker, and the lower hem with a bias cut binding cut from a scrap of purple/blue micro fibre.  tutorial for this bias finish is here

The Tshirt is made up just like the pattern, except for the neckline… I’m lazy with my Inari necklines and have pretty much finished them all off like this!  Just overlocked the raw edge, turned it under and topstitched from the right side.  Since it’s quite a wide neckline and doesn’t stretch out when you put the Tshirt on and take it off, the stitches won’t snap and this kind of finish works perfectly well.

The lower hem is finished with my twin needle.  Lisa asked about channelling with a twin needle.. all I can say is that I’ve never had channelling and what’s more I have no idea how I’ve avoided it so far either!!  Only thing I can think of: I always finish the raw edge on my overlocker, then topstitch with the twin needle, and that’s it!  Maybe the overlocked edge stabilises the fabric and that’s what stops a channel forming?  That’s the only reason I can think of anyway.  🙂
red threads on top, white in the bobbin; white overlocker thread

So! New outfit for her.  I think it makes a really cute ensemble and will get lots of wear, both together, and also separately a lot too, probably.  See, in my experience deep blue skirts are just about the most useful things a girl can have in the wardrobe… and she practically squealed when I brought out the Tshirt! so I knew that was a winner too.  Truly, she’s happy, therefore I am too  🙂

Later edit; at the time of making, she was pretty adamant that she didn’t want it lined so it would be cooler to wear in summer… however! the suedette is a little clingy! so, to give her the option, at least, I quickly ran up a simple little half-slip for her to wear underneath.  Vogue 1247 with the pieces spliced to simplify it as much as possible, navy blue, polyacetate lining fabric. .  A skinny 1cm finished width, uninterfaced waistband, a finished slit at CB and no zip, and with one small snap for closure.  Easy peasy!

  

Details:

Top, Inari tee by Named patterns, cotton jersey
Skirt; Vogue 1170, lengthened, suedette
Petticoat; Vogue 1247, pattern pieces spliced, navy blue polyacetate lining fabric
Shoes; Melissa

   

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… some clothes for Cassie

… and finally, I made some clothes for Cassie for her Christmas pressies too.  At first I had wanted to make some luggage or a travel set for her too; but we were hanging out in Spotlight together, you know as you do… and I discreetly sounded her out about the particular fabric that I had in mind for her.  And she basically nixed it.  Aaargh!  So I had to change tack.  Realistically, she probably needs clothes more than she needs a travel set, anyway!

Particularly she needed little separates and dresses for work.

Et voila…

1. a little spotty top.  The pattern is the cap-sleeved crop top;  Burda 02/2015; 127 and is one I’ve previously made for myself, here.  This one is sized to fit her and lengthened by about 5cm too.  The fabric was a surprise goodie from Spotlight.  I prefer polka dots to be irregular in some way, either in size or arrangement.  When I spotted (hehe) this one, well I just couldn’t resist!  A lovely soft grey crepe, with ivory spots in a satisfyingly random, non-grid pattern, and feels very luxe, just like silk.  I don’t think it is actually silk but it does feel exactly like it; lovely, slippery and whisper-soft.

Funny story; I made this nearly two months ago… and risked posting it on IG for bpsewvember “spots and stripes”… I don’t know what I was thinking … that she might be too busy at work to notice it or something? but she did! and commented “thanks, Mum!” eek!  I proceeded to just keep quiet about it and hope she wouldn’t actually come around asking for it, and luckily she didn’t think to do that!

that IG pic… with my own striped skirt

2.  a white cobwebby, lace-y skirt, with a very pretty border.  I used Vogue 1247… again! and spliced the pattern pieces together so there’s just one seamless front, and the two back pieces with one centre seam for the zip.  The white lace shell and cream suiting gabardine lining/underlining fabric are from Fabulous Fabrics.  The waistband is cut from the same cream fabric.  I like the cream peeping through from underneath the pure white lace, I think it makes a really nice, tonally subtle contrast.  The waistband looked a little bland by itself but I didn’t want machine topstitching, I thought it would look a little… I don’t know, like it would lower the tone of the skirt or something.  But it needed something.  So I did some hand-picksitching along the top edge… and really like how this looks; it adds a little bit of something, a certain handmade je ne sais quoi, and practically speaking achieves the stabilising effect of topstitching without the regimental look of machine topstitching.

note: shoes are Melissa

3.  finally a plain pink Tshirt. Looks boring, but she was over the moon with this!  This is my attempt to clone her favourite and beloved Cotton On Tshirt style and make a pattern from it for her… she has several of these and they’ve all been loved almost to rags!  I borrowed one that hadn’t been stretched out toooooo badly, and made a pattern from it; this was also a Christmas gift for her  🙂  I think it turned out pretty good , the fit and style is just about identical to the Cotton On one, so yay!  There’s nothing quite as valuable as an excellently fitting Tshirt pattern! and, bonus; they take barely an hour to whip up.

I finished the hems and sleeve edges with my twin needle, and since I was too lazy to wind up a new bobbin of pink, the double topstitching has one strand of pink, one of white.  You can only really tell if you look right up close! and I kind of like it.

And that’s it for my Christmas pressie making this year!

Oh! I almost forgot! not a Christmas present, but a few months ago I also made a Named pattern Inari tee dress for her.  This isn’t for work obviously, it’s just a casual, slop-around-at-home thing… the fabric was leftover from a hoodie that she made for herself previously, and she bought it in Tokyo during one of our holidays there.  I added a kangaroo pocket at the front because, well you know; pockets! and finished the neckline and opening edges of the pocket with a bias binding; left off the slits and finished the bottom gently curving longer at the back than at the front, mimicking the high-low hem of the original pattern.

It’s not a very exciting dress, but she likes to wear it on the weekend, or in the evening when relaxing, or to watch tv and stuff. An after-work, but pre-pyjamas thing.

Ok, now that’s really it.

Now, to make something for meeeeeeeeee!  she skips with a clear conscience to the sewing room, self-indulgent frippery in her heart… 

(btw; I apologise for the terrible quality pictures.  I just snapped most of these very quickly with my phone, on Christmas Day, as she tried everything on.  I’m hoping she will give me a little time for me to take some nicer pictures sometime… but she’s currently away and I reeeeeally wanted to get these blogged before the end of the year, to round all my “made” things off!  This post to be updated, in time!)  Update; DONE IT!!

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