Tag Archives: Cassie

sasha-jenny trousers, and a honey-coloured turtleneck

I made a new outfit for myself! well actually I thought I was, although as it turns out I had only made half a new outfit for myself.  But as halves go, I’m pretty happy!  Also,  I know it seems like I’ve only just finished wedding sewing, but how does one choose to wind down after a bout of incredibly, stressfully intense, VIS???    btw, that’s Very Important Sewing in case it wasn’t obvious.   Well, one dives head-first into a fresh new sewing project, of course!!  Ha!  and it felt awesome too… because by comparison this is VUS, or Very Unimportant Sewing, and man it sure felt good! I loved every minute of making these new things  #youknowyoureobsessedwhen

First things first; I made some new trousers…  I’ve been wanting to make this particular love-child of these two different Closet-Case patterns for aaaages now!  I’ve always really liked the mid-riding style of the Sashas; how it sits feels very comfortable, and how it fits is quite flattering for me.  I also love the magnificently flared wide-legs of the Jennys, and thought how cool it would be if they could be jammed together into one, gloriously slouchy, flare-y package.  Well, ta da!!!

please excuse horrible but apparently obligatory butt-picture…

I just needed some nice fabric, which popped up suddenly in Spotlight of all places… Spotlight has fabric highs, where they’re stuffed with a tonne of really very nice and affordable options and you’re completely spoilt for choice; and also sad and lengthy lows, where there’s nothing but absolute crap…   You just have get in there and stock up during the good times and then endure the bad times until the good times roll around again.  Anyway, currently they’re having a rather awesome high, which is pretty nice for us sewing-obsessed peeps.  I mean, I’m not supposed to be buying any fabric right now… but you know.  When you see something good, it’s not going to be there forever!  I pounced upon this stretchy, narrow-whale cotton corduroy in this gorgeously yummy shade of caramel pretty much instantly… not only is the colour so very me, but the stretchiness is just exactly right for that required for the Sasha’s too.  Right nearby was some really lovely, very soft honey-coloured knit; very cashmere-like in its feel though it’s actually just acrylic, but that’s fine.  Fabric snob, I am not, well, most of the time anyway.  I planned a honey/caramelly sort of an outfit for myself.  A Mars Bar, sort of an outfit.  #nowiwantamarsbar  #damn

What is the other half of the wannabe outfit?? well, I’d downloaded the free, tessuti patterns Monroe turtleneck pattern ages ago, printed it out and had it lying around; and I decided it would be a good one for the honey-coloured knit.  In my head my snuggly new sweater was going to look absolute perfect with my new, wide-legged slouchy trousers.    I could hardly wait to wear them together!  So did things work out just exactly as planned?  don’t be silly!

I absolute adore my caramel trousers, they turned out to be everything I could have hoped for; however… the turtleneck…    Well right from the word go it did not want to be my turtleneck.  It really really just wanted to be Cassie’s.   I was barely halfway through when I realised it had her name written all over it.  The sleeves and collar of the Monroe turtleneck are tight-fitting, with a dropped shoulder and a very boxy, oversized body; a combination which looks pretty terrible on me,  I’m coming to terms with that sad fact (sob) but I know is quite gorgeous on Cassie.  It’s a style she has worn before, and worn well too.  When she came over in the evening I gave it to her, and her reception was most satisfyingly enthusiastic!  I might even whip some more for her… it’s a very quick and easy pattern to make and you only need about 1.2m or so.  And I do have several other tops already that I can wear with my trousers.  I’m ok with passing things on that don’t want to look good on me, especially when they look so good on another, and are so warmly received!  🙂

Some technical sewing deets:

The turtleneck; nothing much to say, just made straight up; sleeve hems done using a twin needle, hemline done by hand because the fabric was stretching out some.  Super easy.

R2D2 says hi….

The trousers; I cut out the tops as Sashas, and from the hip down they are almost Jenny’s.  Not exactly Jenny’s because the patterns are actually completely different from each other and can’t really be “melded” that easily.  For one thing, the Sasha’s are drafted for a stretch while the Jenny’s are not.  Another thing I pondered quite a bit, was the alignment of the back leg piece; because the grainlines of the back legs in the two patterns are very different to each other.  I’ve made up two pairs of Sasha trousers previously, exactly to the pattern, and for this new pair I decided to alter the alignment of the back leg piece, pivoting the ankle a little outward, so it’s got a similar grain line to the Jenny’s.

The waistband lining and pockets are cut from some ikat cotton, that Mum gave to me a few years ago, from when she cleaned out her stash.  You can see I attempted to finish the pocket edges with French seams as indicated in the pattern, but it was just too bulky around the heavily-interfaced pocket opening area, so I overlocked the edges for that little bit.  Probably would have looked better to overlock the whole thing, but the pockets were all basically finished, done and dusted by this point so I was just, ehhh  *shrug*  I used the little Closet Case label Heather sent out along with the pattern.  Cute, huh?

  

I’ve found that around the waistband hook and eye closure at the front, no matter how heavily you interface the waistband and facing, the hook and eye will pull the facing out a little, just because the two layers aren’t joined together at this point…. for these ones I kind of stab-stitched the two layers together all around the hook, keeping the stitches tiny and almost invisible on the right side of the waistband.  You can see the stitches if you know they’re there, but I think you can barely tell, and it does help to keep the waistband nice and flat-looking, and no hint of pulling out of shape while you’re wearing them.

I am SO PROUD of my welt pockets!!  You know how sometimes one welt pocket might look a little better than the other and so you just take picture of that one for your sewing blog and quietly leave out the other??  oh wait, what? no I never!!  oooo I would never something so devious, oh no….  Well anyway, both my pockets turned out to be things of perfectly-matching beauty, if I say so myself…

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Details:

Trousers; Sasha trousers by Closet Case patterns, with wide legs from the Jenny trouser pattern
Honey coloured turtleneck; the free Monroe turtleneck by Tessuti Patterns
my pink top; the twist top from the Japanese pattern book “Pattern Magic” by Tomoko Nakamachi 

 this picture adds nothing to the story apart from Zoe looking kinda funny … oo I’m so mean.  Would I ever post a picture of myself looking kinda funny??  NO

me and my big fluffy girl on our  holiday down south together, just the two of us… was so nice  🙂

…wearing them here with my mustard Nettie tee and my self-designed mustard cowl also self-knitted socks

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… a couple of pairs of pants for Cassie…

I’ve made two new pairs of pants for Cassie!  Sarah of french navy now asked for me to test her newest pattern, the Calyer pants and I instantly saw they would fit a need in Cassie’s wardrobe very nicely… since they encompass the criteria for pants that are both smart and classy enough for the office, as well as comfortable enough for her to wear about at home too.  They’re pretty much perfect for her lifestyle!  btw, the bones of this post has been sitting in my drafts box for a few weeks now…  time has just got away from me!

The pants have a slightly dropped crotch, a roomy seat, tapered legs, and a flat front waistband combined with an elasticated back waistband.  Elasticated waistbands are normally an anathema to me, but these ones actually look pretty nice, since the band is a. very wide  and b. has a pretty, almost shirred appearance, which in turn c. gives visual interest at the back.  The back would be pretty plain without it, I think.  They also have nice little hip pockets, and the pattern caters for two front views, a pleated front and a flat front.  I made both!  On different pants, I mean.  So, I just got a visual of a pair of pants with one pleated front and one plain front.  LOL!  Although now I’m wondering how that would go… hmmm… maybe a bit too out there.  But now I’m curious.  Honestly I don’t know how these things pop into my head sometimes…

The black pair has the pleated front, obviously.  For these, I used a heavy, silk-like stuff that was inexplicably on the $4 table at Fabulous Fabrics… back when they actually had a $4 table that is.  They don’t have it any more  *sad face*  Anyway, it’s absolutely GORGEOUS stuff.  Upon discovery, ah what a joyous moment that was! – I bought quite a lot of it, stashed it, and have heroically and selflessly given up some to make these pants for Cassie.   I could be heroic and selfless because I still have a small mountain of the stuff left for me  😉

When she tried them on, she immediately said how much she’d like them in dusky pink too.  Say no more!!  Pink is so hot right now!!!  I hopped in my car just about immediately and zoomed off to Fabulous Fabrics to buy something pink.  Well, seemed like a pretty good excuse, yeah?  The dusky peach colour of this slight stretchy ponte is utterly divine.  I initially cut out another pair of the pleated front in the pink too, but ended up unpicking and altering them to be the flat front version.  Cassie loves them, and says she’ll be wearing them, like 24/7 as the weather cools down.  That’s what I like to hear!!

Dutifully ticking off my “make something for someone else” for the month…

…bonus… cute kitty feet!!!!

Details:

Tops, both Country Road.  Come to think of it, I think she stole that blue one from ME!!

Pants; the french navy now Calyer pants, in a (black) heavy, non-stretch, silk-like woven, and a (pink) medium-weight, medium-stretch ponte

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Christmas pressies; a sewing marathon

Tim and Kelly…

As usual, I made Christmas presents for my family… I started late October, so I was giving myself plenty of time, or so you’d think!  I’m a fairly efficient seamster, and I still only just finished a few days before Christmas!  it’s been a little intense and stressful, actually; every year I underestimate how busy the lead-up to Christmas is and how I just don’t get as much time to devote to sewing presents as I thought.  Plus, I’m a lot more finicky and particular – maybe excessively so?! about my sewing now too.  I think this is a good thing, but I have to accept that I’m taking longer to make things, and should start sooner!  Or maybe make less?

Anyway, it got done!  *phew

Listing everyting in the order I made it…

First thing to get made was a shirt for Tim… He has a job now where he has to look smart, so I decided to make a business shirt… I bought the really lovely deep maroon, mini-scale gingham cotton shirting from Tessuti’s in Melbourne, and used Burda 6874, my kinda go-to shirt pattern since I semi-retired Burda 7767.  d’you know I made that pattern 37 times… can you believe it?!  that tissue paper was wearing pretty thin in some places and in some other places I’d trimmed off the cutting lines altogether, woopsies!!

what sleeve placket…? of course I busted a gut matching those teeny little checks everywhere, took me two days before I could see straight again…

I made the buttondown version… see how the collar up there buttons down onto the shirt?  This is what qualifies it as a buttondown, folks!  I don’t wanna get all grumpy and pedantic here, being Christmas and all, but the number of times I’m reading about someone’s very lovely, but NOT A BUTTONDOWN shirt erroneously labeled as such and have to hold myself back, because we all hate a little lecture, right? I’m gonna stop right now otherwise I’m going to become that painful lecture-r.

this is the inside of the shirt… I’m pretty proud of my flat-felled seams… and I use the burrito method for the yoke so that’s all nicely enclosed too

All seams are flat-felled, using my own tutorials here and also this one here… yes you can flat-fell every single seam in a shirt! and it’s so much better and nicer… although I’m starting to realise that this is probably why what used to take me maybe two days to make a shirt…  now takes me double that time at the least! but anyway.  My guys appreciate the tailoring, so I’m happy that they’re happy.

Sam’s shirt…

I’m just SUPER happy with how my buttondown collars are looking nowadays!  It’s pretty hard to get that sitting just right and perfectly symmetrical; and I think after all the shirts I’ve made I’ve finally got it down…

Next up; I made a matching top for Kelly.  I’ve previously made matching tops for the two of them and noticed that they wear them together a lot! yes, it’s super cute…  I did a little bit of subtle inquiring as to whether matching clothes were still something they liked before I went there and got a positive response.  Alright then!

I had to be far less subtle about fitting it though!  I’d previously taken Kelly’s measurements for when I made a Kelly anorak for her… it’s impossible to do this without it being obvious! and made a block for her, using my Pattern Magic book to help me.  Yes, this is a pretty involved thing to do, requiring protractors and algebra and such-like! but honestly I’ve always found it to be a hugely worthwhile exercise when drafting new patterns.  Then I mocked up a quick plain bodice, and got her to try it on, and made the necessary changes.  In Kelly’s case, the block fitted but the armhole/bust dart had to modified considerably… the famous full-bust adjustment.  I regret now that I didn’t take any pictures of the mock-up bodice and the changes I made because it was a new learning curve for me that I wish I’d documented!

For Kelly’s top, I’d chosen the asymmetrical cowl top from Pattern Magic 2; the shape of the cowl is dictated by the shape of the facing.  It’s always a bit of a challenge to draft your own patterns, but well I love a challenge! and I knew the shape of this top would be super flattering for Kelly and suit her beautifully…  I cut the pieces on the bias and inserted a maroon invisible zip in the left side seam, so it zips down undone… however Kelly says she can squeeze into it without having to undo the zip which is cool.  I think the bias-cut is what gives it that little bit of stretch.

Next up! a business shirt for Sam! He has also started a new job which requires business dress everyday… I’d noticed a lot of young men wearing gingham shirts while we were in Melbourne… a good sign that gingham is super on-trend! so hot right now! which is basically why I bought gingham for both my boys in the first place.  It’s a bugger to pattern match though, even worse than stripes! gnnnnnnn  but oh well…

Again I used Burda 6874, flat felled seams throughout, same links as for Tim’s above… aaaaand so not much else to add.  Both Sam and Tim have been working out some lately, so I think I’m going to have to make some small adjustments to their shirts in the future.

Next up!  I made some little things for Cassie, she needs more work clothes so this was another practical gift really.  I made three things for her…. I just want to say here; it might seem unfair that I made one top plus TWO skirts for her, when compared to just one shirt for each of the boys, but it really does even out because the TIME I spent making these three little separates is actually the same as the time I spent on EACH of the boys’  shirts.  I know, crazy right?!  it’s all that tailoring bizzo that takes so much time…

Likewise, Kelly’s top needing a block made, plus the fitting muslin, plus drafting a pattern, also took about the same amount of time as making three tried and true things for Cassie!

Anyway; Cassie had already chosen this lovely crackle-y hand-painted cotton from the Fabric store in Melbourne while we were there, and I secretly bought the mustard gingham printed silk from Tessuti’s while she was looking elsewhere.  So the little top was a surprise!  The crackle print really is gorgeous, it is hand painted in Zambia and has that handmade naturalness to it…  LOVE this but pattern matching those hand-painted stripes was never going to happen!  of course they are all different widths and thicknesses which just adds to the charm of course.  I just shut down my inner-obsessive for a little while and did my best… at least I got the centre back seam to match!

The other little skirt is a cityscape print, maybe New York City by the looks of that Lady Liberty in there!  We’d seen the fabric in the upholstery section of Spotlight, so she’d known this one was coming too…

for both skirts I bound the lower hem seams using some leftover purple pin-striped linen, the leftovers from when I made this shirt for Craig a few Christmas’s ago.

I have also taken to binding the bottom edge of the zip and stitching it down to the seam allowances… often the bottom edge of a zip has a slightly scratchy bit which can be extreeeeeemely irritating when you’re wearing it… so I’ve taken to doing this whenever I made an unlined skirt with an invisible zip.  Such a small thing that greatly increases the comfort factor when wearing the skirt!!!

  

Oh! patterns!  I used the Inari tee pattern for the little top and Vogue 8363 for both of the skirts, and since I’ve made both of these patterns for her several times already they were super quick and easy to run up. For both skirts I added belt loops so she can cinch in the waistline a bit; in self-fabric for the Zambia striped one, and in black denim for the cityscape one.

Next up! a short-sleeved white shirt for Craig! also using Burda 6874 and a white cotton broadcloth from Spotlight, this was intended originally to be the same as this little shirt that I made for him a few years ago and which happens to be his most worn shirt … then just before making this I’d whipped up my little yellow/black&white lingerie set and had the gingham ribbon sitting out, and suddenly had this brainwave as to how I could use a bit more of it! I stitched the gingham ribbon carefully down the button line of the button placket, and used a little bit to trim the pocket.

To match this gingham detail, I lined both the collar and collar stand with some cotton gingham that I’ve had for aaaaages, and used black buttons to finish the shirt.  Note; IT’S A BUTTONDOWN SHIRT!  Also, of course it’s nowhere near a clone of the other white shirt any more but I still think he’ll wear it a lot…

Next up! a pullover/sweatshirt for Craig!  truth now… I was running out of time, and steam! and this fair near killed me!

Craig with a much much smaller Sam and Tim…

So, once upon a time, nearly twenty years ago, we went on a summertime camping trip down south and it was blooming’ freezing, our tent nearly blew away, we got rained on, hailed on and fair near froze to death!  In pure survival mode, Craig drove to the nearest town bought a red sweatshirt that he has since LOVED and worn about a million times, almost to bits since it’s getting reeeeeeally worn and threadbare now.  At some point he asked me to make a clone of the famous sweatshirt…

Of course it’s easy to clone a sweatshirt, but the challenge is in finding suitable fabric! I found this blue marled French terry in Spotlight, and while the colour is a teeny bit blah and the texture is not as nice as his original sweatshirt, it’s going to make a reasonable stop-gap until winter rolls around, the winter fabrics come into the shops, and hopefully I can find something nicer.  I busted a gut finishing off all the seam allowances off beautifully inside though… imitating the exceptionally beautiful finishes that were in the original.  For the pockets and bias binding I used some of the leftover navy/white gingham that I used for Sam’s shirt, above.  The pockets are French-seamed and the rest of the seams have an interesting amalgamation of HongKong bound AND flat-felled seams… not sure if my method is the same as in the original but I worked out a way to do it and took a few pictures along the way.

First, stitch the seams, then figure out which way you want the seams to be stitched down and apply bias binding to the topside of the seam allowance… ie. to stitch along the same stitching as previously you will be pinning/stitching along the UNDERNEATH,

OR alternatively you can save yourself a step here and stitch the bias binding on at the same time as you’re stitching the seam; your choice.

Press the garment seam allowances open, then press them to the side where they will be felled, with the bias binding on top.  From the other, right side, of the garment, pin through all layers.

With the right side facing up, topstitch the garment to the seam allowances plus binding, through all layers, just to the side of the garment seam…

view on the inside…

Keeping the bias binding free and clean, trim and grade the garment seam allowances…

Turn under and press the raw edge of the bias binding down so as to encase the seam allowances of the garment, pin in place.

With the bias binding facing up, and following the previous stitching as a stitching guide, topstitch the pressed edge of the bias binding down.  Since you’re using the previous stitching as a guide, the width of your double-topstitching will be nice and even from the outside.

Voila!  Such a nice neat finish!  at first I thought it might be overkill, but it is rather classy, if I say so myself; looks pretty good both inside and outside.  I will definitely be using this one again!

As seen above, I also applied bias binding all around the zip tape and stitched it down with double top-stitching the same way to match… this really does make a nice, neatly finished look when the zip is down.  Which it will be, most of the time.

And, last but not least!  I also made a few more little hardback notebooks… just fun little things, however I do know that the recipients do actually use notebooks regularly so I know they will be useful too!  I used mostly a mixture of leftover and old papers; from old scrapbooks, some with the children’s scribbles still on them!  I’m sentimental that way  😉 , various papers, musical paper, some pale coloured wrapping paper, writing stationery; just lots of different stuff.

The notebooks are covered variously with linen, velvet, printed cotton.  The one I made for Mum is covered with raw silk hessian.

So! Yes, it was quite a lot of stuff to make and I was working on it all like billy-o from touching down after Melbourne right up until I finished right on the wire only two days before Christmas…  I’ve been thinking about this… why am I taking longer to achieve less nowadays?  and I think it’s because I used to be happy and content with a slightly more unfinished approach… slapdash is maybe too strong a word? whereas now I am far more, possibly excessively? finicky and particular about perfect finishes on the insides.  I think I’m ok with this…  I feel like well-finished clothing is what I’m into right now.

However, to avoid the Christmas stress maybe I need to start making Christmas presents a LOT sooner!  Each year I start way ahead of time and think by doing so will relieve the stress, each year I get super stressed out and have at least one “I CANNOT DO THIIIIIIS!!” moment.  But I did.  And now for a break from deadlines!!

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a shirt for David and a dress for Cassie

hey bro!

Woooh!  I’m so excited to finally hand this over!  My brother has had/is having a big BIG birthday… and my sister-in-law made the brilliant suggestion that he would like a shirt made by me for his birthday.  Well, oh my goodness, I don’t know why I didn’t think of it myself!!  So I dutifully and sisterly-lovingly spent LOADS of time and care into making this as perfect as I possibly could, and it pretty much is.  Ta da!

looks like a kinda cool dress when Bessie is wearing it, yes?  Gotta admit, I WAS a little tempted to steal it …

I know what you’re thinking… don’t I pour loads of love and care into making shirts for my husband and two sons too? well of course I do.  Buuuut, see…  my brother’s shirt is going to be handled, worn, laundered, ironed and generally available for up close and personal inspection by someone other than me… and I quaked with fear at the thought   * imagines to oneself, my brother and sister-in-law with a magnifying glass going over each and every stitch*   Ha!

And yeah, this really is a VIB (Very Important Birthday).  and so I just really wanted for this shirt to this to be really really lovely for my really really lovely brother.

Pattern: I used my new mens’ shirt pattern Burda 6874, graded to fit David, plus I made his extra long as per the shirt whose size I was going off.  My sister-in-law had secretly given me a well-fitting shirt of his that I could measure off to custom-fit his shirt … David is a 6’4″ champion swimmer, and built like one too… did I ever mention he has swum the Rottnest Channel swim solo?!   Yep!!  Meaning that I needed to substantially re-grade my pattern to fit his physique.  I didn’t have David himself to check the fit off of, just that one shirt; so I was pretty terrified how mine was going to go.  Luckily the fit turned out to be absolutely spot on!  *pheeeew!!!

Fabric; a really nice deep indigo cotton/linen with a permanently scrunchy texture to it, I went big guns and bought this from Calico House, because well, it IS a special birthday.  The red buttons are from Fabulous Fabrics.

But enough boring chit-chat…  how about some gratuitous detail shots  #shirtporn #oooyouknowyouwantit

buttondown collar

it took me three goes to get the second of these buttonholes looking exactly the same as the first!

sleeve placket.  contrasting red cotton for the cuff and yoke facings, topstitched in a way that a tiny sliver peeked out on the right side


fully flat-felled seams throughout

sorry for collar picture overload.. I was just so thrilled at how nice it turned out!

I was once asked what the inside of these side seam gusset/insert thingies looks like …  Folding the inner edges all around made them pretty bulky so I cut away all seam allowances of “hidden” edges ie. those of the underside of the gusset and the turned under edge of the shirt hem, tucked them inside the upper gusset edge and topstitched them all down… thus considerably reducing bulk here

As soon as he opened it, he put it on.. obviously this made me SO HAPPY to see him wearing it!

Also… recently I mentioned that I had made a dress for Cassie?  well here ’tis!

Pattern; the Sudley by Megan Nielsen patterns,  I gathered up the sleeve hems with skinny elastic, like I had done for my own Sudley blouse, at her request.  All seams are French seams, dress is fully lined with the lining cut as an extended bodice.  The fabric is a very realistic silk-like poly from Spotlight, lining also from Spotlight.

 

 

To be honest, halfway through making it I felt pretty down about it, like this was a dress that couldn’t possibly be saved… but fortunately once it was on her it suddenly looked adorable. And she loves it!  Despite that very serious facial expression!

No no no!  I’m not about to be a granny yet… this is just a pose that made us both roar with laughter!  Demonstrating the… um, capacity of this design.

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couture pour bébés

Hello!

Lately I’ve been making some cute little baby suits!

We have two friends who have recently welcomed babies into their lives, both boys, and I decided to make some little hoodie suits for them.  Aren’t these the cutest?? It was soooo haaaaard to choose which cute little jersey print to use! there were so many super sweet and adorable little prints available.

I agonised a bit, would the Mums prefer funny/cute? or would they prefer chic/cute?  You can’t always predict what people are going to want for their babes, in the end I stuck with the safe option and went with the neutral coloured chic/cute… but just couldn’t resist the bear ears on the hoodies!  So there is a little bit of funny/cute going on.   I hope the new mothers don’t mind this… because I think the bear ears are adorable!


Pattern; Butterick 6372.  For both sets I chose to make a bear eared hoodie, zip fronted with long sleeves, and separate trousers.  There isn’t a pattern for the hoodie with long sleeves, but it’s pretty easy to juxtapose the onesie pattern piece with the armscye that allows for long sleeves, with the vest pattern piece that has the little pockets and a shorter, swingy silhouette.  Yes, I put in the side pockets!!! Completely useless obviously, nearly every single family member who has seen them has asked “but what are they going to put in there???” but they’re so cute that just like the bear ears, I just couldn’t resist adding them.
Fabrics; cotton jersey from Spotlight.  Both are bear prints, which fits in with the bear ears thing going on with the hoodie… am I putting too much thought into this, or what?!  Anyway, I love both of them equally.  Baby T is a bigger baby so the beige “bears camping” one is a bit bigger for him, and the smaller, ivory “bears in the woods” set is for baby J.  To be honest, I’m seriously thinking of getting some of this fabric to make a Tshirt for myself… would that be weird??  I would just have to be vigilant to never wear it while visiting!

It was such fun making these, took me right back to when I used to make cute little baby clothes for my own bubs!  I love fiddling about with the smaller and easy to manage pieces and everything goes together so fast and easy!  the only difficulties I had was with the zips for the front opening.  I don’t really like these ones all that much, they’re called “invisible separating zips” but they were the only ones I could get that were even halfway suitable, as in a) separating, b) the right colour and c) lightweight and “petite” enough to be ok for babywear.  Also it is NOT FUN putting zips into flimsy, lightweight jersey fabric.  I just went as slowly and as carefully as I could, being super careful not to stretch the fabric out very much, and I think they turned out ok.  The zip for the smaller, ivory hoodie had to be trimmed a little in length, and you can’t cut any off the bottom, because you’d lose the separating part!  So I trimmed it from the top and was careful to firmly secure the top edge into the seam so there’s no risk of the zip-pull flying off the top.  I’m speaking from bitter experience there… it’s an old old old war wound, and don’t ask!!  Just that my number one rule with invisible zips is usually; NEVER cut the top off!!

OH!  I forgot to blog about this before, in fact I just checked and I made this back in February!  bad blogger!  but I also made another little work dress for Cassie, another Named patterns Inari tee dress.  This is my fifth Inari made, my third for Cassie, she loves the style just as much as I do! Also it’s like a perfect little design for work, plus being easy and comfortable to wear, and quick to run one up.  I incorporated the same sleeve-widening alteration I devised previously, to counteract the “raise your arms above your head and oh look! now everyone can see your knickers!” effect of this design.

Fabric: a piece of mid-blue suiting fabric from the small stash given to me by my friend L, when she cleaned out her garage.  It’s got that distinctive vintage feel to it; cuts like a dream, a lovely weight, a bit heavy and with a texture almost like brushed wool.  I overlocked the raw edges inside, with the exception of the hem edge which I finished with a Hong Kong seam in mid-blue linen, from my stash.  Since the inside hem edge of this design is often glimpsed while you’re wearing the dress, I think it’s therefore much better to finish it with some beautiful, “meant to be seen” finish, than just roaring it through the overlocker.  I stitched this down over the edge, before slip-stitching the hem invisibly in place.

Other alteration, the addition of inseam side pockets.  Well, duh.  🙂

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rows of little white cottages

I’ve made another skirt and top set for Cassie  :

  

Patterns; the Tshirt is the Named patterns Inari tee, and the skirt is Vogue 1170.  I’ve made several of these skirts now, and quite a few are now owned by Cassie.  The only alteration I made was to lengthen it by about 5cm, and leave off the pockets.  Oh, I also made a few fitting alterations… even though I’ve made the pattern several times and I really like it; however the fit is actually not very good.  Fortunately though it’s an easy fix, taking in each of the side/back seams… my alterations to the skirt seams are pictured with my original review of the pattern here, and basically I have to make very similar alterations for Cassie

Fabrics; both from Spotlight..  I spotted this cute cotton jersey with its wonky rows of houses during Christmas shopping, and while I’d already bought her Christmas fabrics I just couldn’t resist! Cheerful, cherry red background, and those cute little white cottages with pink and teal rooves! And by the way, what’s with me and pink and teal this year??  I’ve made four things so far this year and they have all been deep blue and/or pink.  Weird!  Anyway, the print is cute and young and fun and just right for her colouring, all round just perfect … and I knew she has lots of skirts and jeans that would be perfect with it…
Then I vaguely thought maybe a navy  blue skirt would make it a nicely complete set, and she desperately needs skirts for work too … and lo and behold what should be lounging languidly about in the very next aisle but this teal blue suedette, which is a PERFECT colour match for the rooves.  BAM!  DECISION MADE.  Lugged them both to the counter without a second thought, brought them home, tossed into the washing machine.

About this time, I saw that happylat had also made a Tshirt from this very same fabric. What can I say, but great minds think alike!

I lined the waistband with some of the house fabric… not because I had run out of suedette or anything, but I just thought it was cute and I wanted to tie the two pieces together!

this is on grain, I promise!! the print is just naturally, and charmingly wonky

The suedette “looks” nice and perfectly suede-y, but it frays like billy-o.  I finished all the raw edges on the overlocker, and the lower hem with a bias cut binding cut from a scrap of purple/blue micro fibre.  tutorial for this bias finish is here

The Tshirt is made up just like the pattern, except for the neckline… I’m lazy with my Inari necklines and have pretty much finished them all off like this!  Just overlocked the raw edge, turned it under and topstitched from the right side.  Since it’s quite a wide neckline and doesn’t stretch out when you put the Tshirt on and take it off, the stitches won’t snap and this kind of finish works perfectly well.

The lower hem is finished with my twin needle.  Lisa asked about channelling with a twin needle.. all I can say is that I’ve never had channelling and what’s more I have no idea how I’ve avoided it so far either!!  Only thing I can think of: I always finish the raw edge on my overlocker, then topstitch with the twin needle, and that’s it!  Maybe the overlocked edge stabilises the fabric and that’s what stops a channel forming?  That’s the only reason I can think of anyway.  🙂
red threads on top, white in the bobbin; white overlocker thread

So! New outfit for her.  I think it makes a really cute ensemble and will get lots of wear, both together, and also separately a lot too, probably.  See, in my experience deep blue skirts are just about the most useful things a girl can have in the wardrobe… and she practically squealed when I brought out the Tshirt! so I knew that was a winner too.  Truly, she’s happy, therefore I am too  🙂

Later edit; at the time of making, she was pretty adamant that she didn’t want it lined so it would be cooler to wear in summer… however! the suedette is a little clingy! so, to give her the option, at least, I quickly ran up a simple little half-slip for her to wear underneath.  Vogue 1247 with the pieces spliced to simplify it as much as possible, navy blue, polyacetate lining fabric. .  A skinny 1cm finished width, uninterfaced waistband, a finished slit at CB and no zip, and with one small snap for closure.  Easy peasy!

  

Details:

Top, Inari tee by Named patterns, cotton jersey
Skirt; Vogue 1170, lengthened, suedette
Petticoat; Vogue 1247, pattern pieces spliced, navy blue polyacetate lining fabric
Shoes; Melissa

   

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… some clothes for Cassie

… and finally, I made some clothes for Cassie for her Christmas pressies too.  At first I had wanted to make some luggage or a travel set for her too; but we were hanging out in Spotlight together, you know as you do… and I discreetly sounded her out about the particular fabric that I had in mind for her.  And she basically nixed it.  Aaargh!  So I had to change tack.  Realistically, she probably needs clothes more than she needs a travel set, anyway!

Particularly she needed little separates and dresses for work.

Et voila…

1. a little spotty top.  The pattern is the cap-sleeved crop top;  Burda 02/2015; 127 and is one I’ve previously made for myself, here.  This one is sized to fit her and lengthened by about 5cm too.  The fabric was a surprise goodie from Spotlight.  I prefer polka dots to be irregular in some way, either in size or arrangement.  When I spotted (hehe) this one, well I just couldn’t resist!  A lovely soft grey crepe, with ivory spots in a satisfyingly random, non-grid pattern, and feels very luxe, just like silk.  I don’t think it is actually silk but it does feel exactly like it; lovely, slippery and whisper-soft.

Funny story; I made this nearly two months ago… and risked posting it on IG for bpsewvember “spots and stripes”… I don’t know what I was thinking … that she might be too busy at work to notice it or something? but she did! and commented “thanks, Mum!” eek!  I proceeded to just keep quiet about it and hope she wouldn’t actually come around asking for it, and luckily she didn’t think to do that!

that IG pic… with my own striped skirt

2.  a white cobwebby, lace-y skirt, with a very pretty border.  I used Vogue 1247… again! and spliced the pattern pieces together so there’s just one seamless front, and the two back pieces with one centre seam for the zip.  The white lace shell and cream suiting gabardine lining/underlining fabric are from Fabulous Fabrics.  The waistband is cut from the same cream fabric.  I like the cream peeping through from underneath the pure white lace, I think it makes a really nice, tonally subtle contrast.  The waistband looked a little bland by itself but I didn’t want machine topstitching, I thought it would look a little… I don’t know, like it would lower the tone of the skirt or something.  But it needed something.  So I did some hand-picksitching along the top edge… and really like how this looks; it adds a little bit of something, a certain handmade je ne sais quoi, and practically speaking achieves the stabilising effect of topstitching without the regimental look of machine topstitching.

note: shoes are Melissa

3.  finally a plain pink Tshirt. Looks boring, but she was over the moon with this!  This is my attempt to clone her favourite and beloved Cotton On Tshirt style and make a pattern from it for her… she has several of these and they’ve all been loved almost to rags!  I borrowed one that hadn’t been stretched out toooooo badly, and made a pattern from it; this was also a Christmas gift for her  🙂  I think it turned out pretty good , the fit and style is just about identical to the Cotton On one, so yay!  There’s nothing quite as valuable as an excellently fitting Tshirt pattern! and, bonus; they take barely an hour to whip up.

I finished the hems and sleeve edges with my twin needle, and since I was too lazy to wind up a new bobbin of pink, the double topstitching has one strand of pink, one of white.  You can only really tell if you look right up close! and I kind of like it.

And that’s it for my Christmas pressie making this year!

Oh! I almost forgot! not a Christmas present, but a few months ago I also made a Named pattern Inari tee dress for her.  This isn’t for work obviously, it’s just a casual, slop-around-at-home thing… the fabric was leftover from a hoodie that she made for herself previously, and she bought it in Tokyo during one of our holidays there.  I added a kangaroo pocket at the front because, well you know; pockets! and finished the neckline and opening edges of the pocket with a bias binding; left off the slits and finished the bottom gently curving longer at the back than at the front, mimicking the high-low hem of the original pattern.

It’s not a very exciting dress, but she likes to wear it on the weekend, or in the evening when relaxing, or to watch tv and stuff. An after-work, but pre-pyjamas thing.

Ok, now that’s really it.

Now, to make something for meeeeeeeeee!  she skips with a clear conscience to the sewing room, self-indulgent frippery in her heart… 

(btw; I apologise for the terrible quality pictures.  I just snapped most of these very quickly with my phone, on Christmas Day, as she tried everything on.  I’m hoping she will give me a little time for me to take some nicer pictures sometime… but she’s currently away and I reeeeeally wanted to get these blogged before the end of the year, to round all my “made” things off!  This post to be updated, in time!)  Update; DONE IT!!

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white inari

white-inari

named-inariMum and I went shopping together on my birthday; her for my birthday present, and me for her birthday present!  yes, our birthdays are just a few days apart so this is a bit of a tradition.  We went to Fabulous Fabrics.  Haha… well how unexpected!  *wink*

After much lengthy and highly enjoyable hunting, comparisons and consultations with each other, Mum chose this really beautiful fabric for me.  it is thick but very light and airy, has a nubbly, ultra slubby texture and is as pure white as the driven snow.  I absolutely adore it, in fact I’d been salivating over it whenever I saw it, ever since it came in.  Getting a little bit to give me is extra thoughtful of Mum when you take into account that she doesn’t think white really suits me at all.  I kind of agree with her up to a point… however!  I still totally adore it, because I’m a dreadfully contrary soul… no not really, I just have this thing for white clothing, particularly for summer, I love it with a fierce and burning passion…even a white-hot passion!  Mum knows I do, so I thought it pretty sweet that she overrode her feelings to give me something I really love.

white-inari-back

Pattern is the Named patterns Inari tee dress.  This is my “real” Inari, for which I ran up my previously blogged red striped “muslin”! though of course they are both wearable since I found I needed to make only minor changes to the pattern for it to be perfect.

sleeve-cuff

Something I mentioned in my red-striped inari post, the dress made as per the pattern rides up a bit when you lift your arms, so for this version I made the following simple modification to the sleeves to help reduce the problem:

What I’m doing here is adding width to and reducing the height of the sleeve cap slightly, and doing so without altering the armscye.  Diddling about with both the sleeve and the armscye is possible if you really know what you’re doing #idonot; however can be quite complicated and so I tend to not go there…  I would prefer to substitute an entirely different, tried-and-true sleeve cap and armscye from another pattern if it came to that!!

inari-sleeve-altfrom L to R, top to bottom:

1) Trace the sleeve, and draw a line from the shoulder seam junction mark near the apex of the sleeve cap down to the lower edge, parallel to the grain line.
2) Cut from the lower edge up, leaving a scant few mm at the upper edge still attached.  Pivot the two halves open; I allowed a gap of 4cm (2″) in width, although you could stand to go a little wider, if desired.
3) Tape a piece of paper to fill and fix the gap
4) redraw that lower hem to curve smoothly in a similar line to how the sleeve was previously, and trim
5) Original sleeve and new sleeve, juxtaposed.  You can see how the sleeve is wider; and not seen, but the height of the sleeve cap has been reduced by 2.5cm (1″).
6) Very important!!!  remember to measure the length of the new lower edge and cut the sleeve cuffs accordingly!  They’ll be a bit longer than the sum of the original width and the width of the gap created in step 2.

Demonstration of results (below); The dress does still ride up a little bit however not nearly as much as previously, at right.  To lessen the ride-up even more, you could go even further with widening the sleeve and “flattening” the curve of the sleeve cap even more.  Or alternatively of course, you could always substitute an armscye and sleeve cap from another pattern, at a pinch!

I’m pretty happy with this though  🙂

whiteinari-arms-up

Finishing details:

I still didn’t use the neckline facing, but turned in the seam allowance and finished with a piece of bias-cut white linen.  Similarly at the lower hemline, the raw edge inside is bound with bias-cut white linen and then handstitched, this looks nice if anyone happens to catch a glimpse of that back hem inside.. which lets face it, is quite possible because of that low-hanging back edge,  and also eliminates the bulk that you’d get if you turned the fabric under twice.

binding binding2

Bonus picture, photobombing daughter…

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Fun fact, she made the dress she is wearing here; it is a cute and interesting tank dress with tucking up one side and side split detail on the other, made in blue marl jersey that she bought in Japan.   She’s wearing it over the skirt that I made for her, here.  Honestly, she makes the most lovely things, but doesn’t really share them on any social media.  Occasionally I persuade her to pose in something she’s made, like the time she made this really divinely beautiful ivory cut-out lace top

cassies-lace-top

Gorgeous, isn’t it?

Details:

Dress; Inari tee dress by Named patterns, white slubby cotton mix
Shoes; designed and made by me, details here
Sandals in top picture;designed and made by me here.    this picture taken on Cable Beach during our recent holiday

and hmmmm, I’m sorry that I’m closing with my dress here… bit of an anticlimax after Cassie’s top!!

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